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Media Reflection

Earlier this year I watched the anime Your Name for the first time. I was captivated by its ultrarealistic depiction of Tokyo, which increased my excitement about visiting the city. Directed by Makoto Shinkai, Your Name is one of the most popular and critically acclaimed anime films and the highest grossing Japanese film in all of history. As most of the movie takes place in contemporary Tokyo, many of the scenes it depicts can be visited in real life. Seeing the locations featured in Your Name has become of popular activity among fans of the movie, and there exists a myriad of guides detailing pilgrimages people can take through these sites. I referenced one such guide during my travels in Tokyo. Due to limited time, I was unable to see all of the places it mentioned, but I checked off enough to be satisfied. Many of them were otherwise innocuous places, such as a bridge or traffic sign, their only real significance being that the happened to make an appearance in the background of one of the film’s shots. Although the value of taking such a mundane sightseeing tour might seem dubious to some, I feel that the normalcy of these sights speaks to the film’s dedication to portraying Tokyo as accurately as possible.

Not all the Your Name locations were like this, however. Some, such as the National Art Museum, are popular tourist attractions independent of their connection to the film. In the film, the male protagonist Taki goes on a date at the museum café. I was able to see the tables where they ate, which looked almost exactly like they do in the film, down to the rectangular plates and even water glasses. Out of all the places I visited, the café’s depiction was probably the most realistic. There was also an exhibit downstairs where the characters went after their meal, but there was an entry fee and as I was short on time, I had to pass it up.

The most iconic Tokyo location in Your Name and one that owes its significance expressly to the film is the Suga Shrine staircase. This is where the climax of the movie takes place, where Taki and Mitsuha meet and rekindle their lost connection. The staircase was an interesting choice for this moment, as there is nothing special about it in real life. Yotsuya is a quiet residential area, and the staircase is quite literally just a set of stairs leading up to Suga Shrine, tucked away between houses in a tiny alleyway. It was so nondescript, I thought google maps had taken me to the wrong place. Since its cinematic debut, however, the unassuming set of stairs has skyrocketed to celebrity status. The guide I read mentioned that, when the writer visited the stairs, there was a confused local who didn’t understand why there was a crowd of people taking pictures of the stairs and not the shrine itself. There was a trio of Americans when I went there, posing and snapping photos in front of the steps. They were definitely Your Name pilgrims since I overheard them talking about going to Shinanomachi Station, another location from the film. There are two different depictions of Shuga Stairs in Your Name: a promotional poster and the actual scene from the movie. The latter is much more realistic, as in the poster the height of the steps in much higher and the cityscape below much more expansive. The scene from the film, on the other hand, is quite similar to the real-life location.

I thoroughly enjoyed my Your Name pilgrimage. It was really cool being able to see places from a film in real life, and serves as a testament to the amazing achievements of Japanese animation

The promotional poster

The scene from the film

Shuga staircase in real life

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June 11 - Arashiyama

Today was our official last day of class! I’m saddened that my time in Japan is nearing its end. Surprised, too: the last four weeks have flown by so quickly. It’s hard to believe I’ve been here a whole month! I would be lying if I said I was ready to leave just yet, but I’m extremely grateful for having had the opportunity to go on this trip and all the amazing experiences it provided me with.

Our final activity brought us to the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, one of the most iconic and popular sites in all of Japan. It was a fitting place to end the program, as it is representative of the essence of Japan. We had been warned about the particularly large crowds beforehand, but I didn’t find them too overwhelming, especially in comparison to places such as the golden pavilion. We walked beneath the canopy of towering bamboo stalks, alive with the sounds of bird calls and rustling leaves.

After exiting the forest, we made our way to the neighboring Arashiyama Monkey Park. Much like the deer in Nara, this was an area where wild monkeys could intermingle with people and be fed by them. It was a nice hike up to the top of the mountain. We caught a few brief glimpses of macaques in the trees on the way up, but once we reached the peak, we understood why the park was named so. There were around 30 Japanese macaques roaming around and playing in the trees on the hillside. Much like the deer, they tolerated the presence of people, but only really showed interest when someone had food in their hands. They were much less aggressive, though. This surprised me since everything I knew about wild monkeys, including the many signs warning about the danger they pose, painted a picture of a highly antagonistic creature. As someone with an interest in primatology, it’s was fascinating to observe their behavior in this unique environment. The view from the peak was pretty spectacular too, showcasing the familiar vista of the city below.

The monkey park was the last activity on our schedule, so after we were dismissed a group of us decided to go visit Byodoin, the famous Shinto temple on the ten-yen coin. On the way, we stopped intermittently to explore the city of Uji. We saw a few locations featured in the Tale of Genji, such as the red Uji bridge. Uji was quiet and bucolic, a pleasant retreat from the touristy areas in Kyoto. Byodoin itself was really nice as well. There was an underground museum presenting the history of the temple, and its significance to Pure Land Buddhism. We couldn’t go inside the Phoenix Hall as it required special permission, but they had an exhibit of what the building looked like in the museum. Taken altogether, it was probably one of my favorite days thus far, thanks in no small part to the amazing people I was with.

Academic Reflection

Arashiyama has borne witness to a long history of human utility. Although originally used for agricultural purposes, it has long been celebrated as a tourist attraction for people to come and enjoy the natural scenery. However, Japan’s poor agricultural policies and land use have taken a toll on the forest over time. Today there is much effort spent toward preserving the forest in as natural a state as possible, so that it may remain for people to enjoy. One of the primary methods through which this is accomplished is the prevention of erosion, which is curbed by the plating of evergreen trees. The roots of these trees help hold together loose patches of dirt, without which could lead to erosion and the loss of bamboo trees.

The other reading was an excerpt from the Tale of Genji, which partially takes place in Arashiyama. In the scene we read, Genji takes a pilgrimage to Nonomiya shrine to speak with his spurned lover, the Lady, Rokujo, and her daughter, who is an acolyte Ise Priestess. Historically, unmarried princesses would become temporary priestesses at Nonomiya, to purify themselves before marriage. Although it wasn't part of the official activity, the Tale of Genji also held great relevance to our trip to Uji. The latter half of the story takes place in the quiet town, and many spots such as Uji Bridge and Byodoin are featured in the tale.

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June 10 - Nara

 June 10 Nara

We left Kyoto today to visit the neighboring city of Nara. Being the previous capital of Japan before Kyoto, Nara is famous for its deep history and wild, roaming deer. I had heard about the deer and how people fed them, but I honestly wasn't expecting how intimate they would be. I assumed they were enclosed in a pen where people could enter and interact with them. Instead, the deer wander freely throughout the park, with wild abandon, completely unphased by humans. They aren't exactly tame, but they rely on people for food in a neat kind of symbiotic relationship. You can buy crackers with which to feed the deer; once they realize you're holding food, they become aggressive. It was fun watching people get swarmed by hungry deer, sometimes fleeing in terror from their eager pursuers.

The Nara deer were cool, but my favorite thing about the city was its history. We visited Todaiji temple, and very old building once belonging to the Fujiwara family. Housed inside was the largest Buddha image in the world, an enormous bronze and wood statue of Dainichi. Also, inside the chamber were  other large busts of temple guardians and additional buddhas. There was also a hole in one of the wooden support posts supposedly the same size as Dainichi's ear, that, if successfully crawled through, would grant good fortune in one's next life. I was too wary of getting stuck try it, even though the hole was probably larger than it appeared. Next, we went to Kasugataisha shrine, which was also a Fujiwara property. There was an array of moss-covered lanterns lining the path up to the shrine, which resulted in a meditative aesthetic.

My favorite historical attraction of the day was Horyuji Temple, an ancient wooden structure. Dating to the 7th century, Horyuji is the oldest surviving wooden structure in the world. There was a museum displaying artifacts recovered from the surrounding area, many of which were just as old as the building itself. It was difficult to conceptualize just how ancient they were, much less fully appreciate them. I walked away feeling reflective of the passage of time, and the unique ability of humans to create legacies that transcend the limits of their own mortality.  

 Academic Reflection

The article we read was about Shingon Buddhism, which is one of the main schools in Japan and emphasizes esoteric rituals. Dainichi, of the Sun Buddha, is a principal deity in this sect of Buddhism. In Japanese culture, he is often associated with the Shinto deity Amaterasu, with the latter, believed to be an incarnation of the former. This is one of the ways in which a reconcile between Buddhism and Shinto was attempted after Buddhism was introduced to Japan in the 6th century.

The statue inside Todaiji was an image of Dainichi, illustrating the figure’s importance in Shingon doctrine. I felt that it was helpful learning about Shingon and Dainichi beforehand, so that I had a working knowledge of the significance of the Buddha image when I went to see it.

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June 10 - Osaka

For my last free day, I decided to take a day trip out to Osaka. This was a city I have been wanting to visit since I arrived in Kyoto. We rode a train for about an hour to the first destination on our itinerary, Osaka Castle. It was interesting seeing the stark contrast between the ancient castle and the ultra-modern skyscrapers surrounding it. It was like walking into a time capsule, where a vestige of the past still remained against a backdrop of blue steel and concrete. The castle itself was larger than the one we saw in Tokyo, being encircled by a vast moat and towering wall. We went to see a tree where, supposedly, the monk Rennyo had hung his robe in the 15th century. Our lofty expectations were not met by the actual memorial, however, which included neither a robe nor a tree. To help alleviate our disappointment we got some shaved ice from a stand outside the main tower. I was toying with the idea of going inside, but the tickets were too expensive and there was a substantial wait to get in, so I ended up just admiring the tower from afar. We continued to explore the grounds a bit, until hopping back on the train to the center of Osaka. We walked through a crowded fish market and had some melon ice cream. For lunch, we went to a yakisoba place. After we finished our meal the waiter brought out complimentary cups of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream, much to our surprise. The street the restaurant was on was full of various restaurants, each with its own gigantic animatronic sign out front. We walked among huge, slightly unnerving crabs and sushi rolls until we spotted something that caught out attention: an enormous Ferris wheel constructed around the frame of a department store. We decided to ride it (I don’t know whose idea that was), and from our plastic bubbles, we could see the skyline of the city. Osaka reminded me a lot of New York, with its densely crowded streets beneath towering skyscrapers and overall atmosphere. The city was almost like a halfway point between Tokyo and Kyoto; although undeniably modern, it was not quite as thoroughly metropolitan as the former, and still retained a smidge of the latter’s history. It was an interesting place, to be sure.

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June 8 - Kyoto National Museum

Another day, another museum. This time it was the Kyoto National Museum, where we saw an exhibit dedicated to the life of Ippen, the famous wandering priest. Since we weren’t allowed to take pictures inside the museum, we took notes on pieces that interested us. One of the items I selected was a Buddhist robe worn by priests of the Ji Shu sect in the 13th century. The twining process for creating these robes was the same as the one used to make straw mats, which I found interesting. Many of the depictions of Ippen show him wearing this kind of robe, which was one of his 12 possessions during his journey. Another exhibit which caught my attention was a statue titled “Standing Amida Buddha,” from the Kamakura period. On the surface it resembled a typical Japanese carving of Amida, with hanging earlobes, flowing robe and enclosed thumb-and-forefinger hand gestures. But when researchers performed an x-ray scan on the statue, they found something interesting: a five-element crystal enshrined in the Buddha’s head. The idea of treasures hidden inside old but otherwise seemingly inconspicuous relics such as this is exciting to me.

Academic Reflection

Ippen was a warrior-turned-wandering priest of the Ji Shu sect, who traveled around Japan in the 13th century, and was highly influential in advancing Pure Land Buddhism. Ippen was a devotee of Nenbutsu and created a new form of worship called involving dancing and a single recitation of Amida’s name. He believed that this was the only path to enlightenment, as all other Buddhist practices were simply precursors to the recitation. Written on some of the scrolls on display at the museum were the sutras that Ippen recited and distributed to people during his travels.

A relatively large portion of the exhibit was given to the illustrated biography of Ippen, a series of colorful picture scrolls that depict his travels across Japan. It was fascinating seeing 13th-century renditions of some places that we have visited. The illustrations helped me visualize what I learned about Ippen’s journey from reading the article.

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June 7 - International Manga Museum

We had a light day today, with only one, relatively brief, activity. That activity was the Kyoto International Manga Museum, an archive dedicated to Japan’s infamous printed media format. I’m not the biggest manga fan, but I still found the museum fascinating. It was interesting seeing the progression of the art form from its humble beginnings in the postwar era up to the present. One trend I observed was not only the increasing complexity and depth of the art styles but also the proliferation of various types of content. I also thought it was neat that they allowed people to take books off the shelves and read them in the museum. After spending some time browsing the exhibit, we watched an antiquated picture show performed by an enthusiastic museum employee. He was funny and adept at interacting with the crowd, especially the children in the audience. I really enjoyed the show.

After the museum, I checked out a vegetarian café in Shinkyogoku. The restaurant had a hip and modern aesthetic, and it was nice being able to actually have multiple options on a menu. I ordered a lunch platter with fresh seasonal vegetables, miso soup, and tofu curd bites. It was a little pricey, but super delicious. After lunch, I went for a walk along the Kamo River. It had been raining all morning, so the sky was a moody gray, and the mountains were shrouded with mist in the distance. I saw a man feeding birds, children hopping on the stone bridges across the river, and even a pair of deer. Before I knew it, I had been walking for a few hours, and I was nearly at the base of the mountains that had appeared so remote when I started. I explored the area a bit and came upon a few small shrines tucked away in the crevices of residential areas in the foothills. In comparison to the more famous shrines we’ve visited, these were completely empty. There was a certain sense of spirituality present that I haven’t felt at the busier ones. I got lost on my way back (an inevitable outcome every time I venture out on my own) because of some issues with my GPS, but fortunately, I was helped by a kind woman who walked me to the right bus stop. The kindness of the people here continues to amaze me.

 Academic Reflection

Manga is read and cherished around the world, yet its reputation in its home country is not exactly one of high standing. Although it is read by many in Japan, in most academic circles manga is seen as an inferior art form, one that is immaturely unequipped to deal with complex topics. I disagree with this assertion, as I think that manga is as valid a medium as any and exhibits a high degree of artistic potential. The International Manga Museum proves this, with its staggeringly wide variety of manga and deep analysis of the art form.

Another controversy surrounding manga is its credibility as a truly “Japanese” art form. There are some who argue that its origins lie entirely within Japanese tradition, such as the iconic picture scrolls from the middle ages. However, I think it is impossible to convincingly dispute the immense impact western culture had on the development of manga during the postwar period, particularly American comics. Manga in its current form would likely not exist without such outside influence.

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June 7 - Fushimi Inari

We visited the Fushimi Inari shrine today, a highly spiritually significant shrine dedicated to the kami Inari. To get there we took a train for the first time in a while. The transit system is one of the things I miss the most about Tokyo - the Kyoto buses just don’t compare. When we exited the station, we immediately got our first taste of Inari culture: a shop selling fried tofu just outside. We then proceeded to swim through a sea of tofu, orange torii, and kitsune merchandise. At the temple proper, there was a ritualistic dance performance taking place, where two women dressed in ceremonial robes drew shapes in the air with paper fans to the pulse of a drum. We stayed and watched for a while, until pressing forward and beginning our ascent of Mount Inari. We walked underneath endless rows of bright orange torii inscribed with black kanji. I always thought that the gates were very old, so I was surprised to find that they were all from the Heian period. Most of the torii on Mount Inari were donated by various companies over the last half-century. A little way up, we split into two groups with one turning back and the other continuing up to the top of the mountain. I decided to join the second group. As we made our way through more torii, the incline steepened, and the forest grew denser. We also passed a few shrines along the way, marked by kitsune statues. I stopped to pray at one, tossing in my coin and ringing the large bell to awaken Inari.

 Academic Reflection

Inari is an important figure in Shinto mythology, being the patron of rice and the harvest. He is often associated with foxes, which causes some to believe that he himself is an incarnation of the animal. However, this assumption would be incorrect, as one of the few points of consensus among the priesthood concerning Inari is that he is not, and should not be, depicted as a fox, but rather using one as a mount. Still, kitsune have a strong connection with the kami, which we saw exhibited in the countless statues, plush toys, and masks at Fushimi Inari.

Another symbol associated with Inari are the vibrant red orange torii which cover the ascent up his mountain. In Shinto tradition, these gates mark entrances into sacred spaces, where the barriers between humans and spirits become blurred. Mount Inari is still a highly spiritual place, despite its contemporary role as a tourist destination. The torii still inspire a kind of deep reverence and awe, and a feeling of transience.

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June 5 - Imperial Palace

Today we visited the imperial palace in Kyoto. We took a guided tour of the palace grounds, that lasted about an hour. I really enjoyed learning about the fascinating history of the palace and its importance in Japan’s history. In contrast to the Shogun’s palace we saw in Tokyo, the imperial palace was more ornamental and less fortified. It was clearly not meant to withstand a siege, but rather as an elaborate home befitting the emperor. The tour guide told us many interesting stories about the lavish activities the court nobility participated in such as poetry contests and induction ceremonies. What fortifications the palace did have were designed to isolate its inhabitants from the outside world, so that they could revel in their extravagant lifestyles.

We ended earlier than anticipated, so we had most of the day to ourselves. I went to do some shopping in Teramachi and Shin Kyogoku, where I bought gifts for myself and others. Overall it was a pretty relaxed day, and I had a fun time.

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June 4 - Kiyomizudera

June 4 – Kiyomizudera/ Gion

More temples again today. The first one we visited was Kiyomizudera, an ancient Buddhist temple in eastern Kyoto. To get there we had to trek up a steep, tight road filled with shops and tourists. When we reached the temple gate, we ascended more stairs (you can’t have a Japanese temple without stairs) and appreciated the view of the city and misty hills in the distance. The temple complex was built into the face of a mountain and encompassed by dense cedar trees. After performing the water cleansing ritual a few of us elected to brave the descent into Zuigudo Hall’s dark chamber, symbolizing a soul’s journey being reborn from the womb. The chamber was pitch-black, and we had nothing but the sound of each other’s voices and faint lights on the walls to guide our way through the room’s twists and turns.

When we finally emerged into the blinding sunlight, we continued further into the main hall of Kiyomizudera. The building was supported by an intricate wooden framework that was constructed entirely without nails. Inside the hall, there were a couple artifacts, such as Benkei’s staff, and a stage offering an expansive view of the city. Upon exiting the hall, we made brief stops at Jishu Shrine and Otowa Waterfall. Both offered interactive prayer exhibits for good fortune. In the former, there were two stones that, if someone successfully walked from one to the other with heir eyes closed, would grant them love. Otowa allowed the option to drink from one of three streams representing success, love, and longevity.

We wandered and ate lunch in the shopping district on the hill before leaving Kiyomizudera and taking the bus to our next location, Gion district. There weren’t any geishas out and about, but it was cool seeing all the old traditional wooden buildings.

Academic Reflection

The story of Shintokumaru partially takes place at Kiyomizudera. It is at this temple where Nobuyoshi and his wife pray to Kannon to grant them a child. Shintokumaru is an early example of a Sekkyo, or tales that were typically performed with musical accompaniment in medieval Japan. One notable aspect of Shintokumaru is that it includes a strong female protagonist, in contrast to the patriarchal society of the time.

Gion district is the historical center of the Geisha community, where the entertainers were trained and held engagements. There is a common association between geishas and prostitution. However, more accurately geisha are professional entertainers, some of whom have also happened to work in the sex industry to varying degrees. Because of this association, geisha held a negative image in Japan until the Enlightenment era, when they were recast as educated artisans, and symbols of Japan’s push into modernity as the sophisticated ideal of femininity.

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June 3 - Kinkakuji and Daitokuji

June 3 – Kinkakuji & Daitokuji

We had a really early start today, meeting up in the small hours of the morning (small for me at least) so that we could have a chance at beating the influx or tourist traffic. The first place we visited was Kinkakuji, the famed Golden Pavilion. As we followed the winding path through the grounds, we were able to enjoy the scenery and get different views of the temple. The gardens were nice, and the temple itself was pretty, but I found myself unable to fully enjoy it because of the large crowds. Kinkakuji is one of the most popular tourist spots in Japan, and I just wasn’t feeling up to dealing with so many people at the time.

Daitokuji was considerably less crowded, to my relief. Although open to the public, since it is a functioning temple visitation is limited, and people are expected to maintain a quiet and respectful manner. The main temple was gorgeous, with its traditional Chinese-inspired architecture and elaborate rock gardens. We also visited a few of the autonomous sub-temples, the last of which was Daisenin. After removing our shoes at the entrance, we had a tour guide lead us through the chambers of the temple. The Zen gardens at this temple interested me in their deep yet minimal river motifs, symbolizing the cycle of life as conceptualized in Buddhist philosophy. In addition, we saw a room where, supposedly, the first formal tea ceremony was held. In comparison to Kinkuji, Daitokuji had a much calmer and secluded atmosphere. I hope to find more places like this in Kyoto, as refuges away from the busy tourist sites.

Academic Reflection

The Golden Pavilion, after surviving centuries of war and natural disasters was burned down by a novice monk in 1950 who subsequently attempted suicide. Kinkakuji was, and still is, considered a national symbol of Japan, and that its miraculous endurance of momentous forces was halted by the actions of a single individual in contemporary times shocked and puzzled many people. The famous Japanese author Yukio Mishima explored the “how” and “why” questions concerning the incident in his novel, Temple of the Golden Pavilion.

After seeing the temple, I was able to obtain a better grasp on the context of how emotionally impactful the burning of Kinkakuji was, and Mishima’s examination of the monk’s motivation and psychological state that led to such an unfortunate loss. Such incidents inspire ruminations on the impermanence of humanity and our proudest achievements. Even though it is not the original structure, the Golden Pavilion that stands today in Kyoto is a more than worthy successor.

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June 2 - Himeji-jo

I woke up with a sore throat this morning and feared that I might have caught the sickness that’s been spreading through our group like wildfire, but I felt better after a few hours. Still, there’s a good chance I may have to travel in Kyoto wearing a surgical mask in the near future. Today we took a long (expensive) train ride outside of Kyoto to see the iconic Himeji-jo castle. I’ve never seen a real castle before, Japanese or otherwise, so I was looking forward to this excursion. When we emerged from the station, we were faced with a symmetrical street lined with buildings on either side, and Himeji-jo looming far off in the distance. Before we set off on the trek toward the palace, we broke for some lunch in the peripheries of the city. Some of us ended up at a yakisoba restaurant, where I had a savory okonomiyaki with corn. It was good, even though I fuddled up the ordering process and elicited some hearty looks of disapproval from our waiter (it really pays to have Japanese-speaking friends in situations like these).

After lunch we set off toward the castle. Along the way we came across a small outdoor market, where there were local vendors selling various odds and ends: fresh fruits and vegetables, old swords and guns, phallic idols – the typical yard sale fare. There was also a small crowd gathered around a possibly inhumane display involving a monkey on a leash jumping over obstacles. A few hundred more feet and were at the base of the castle, its walls towering above us. There were people dressed in samurai costumes, fake weapons and all, taking pictures with tourists outside the gate. We ventured throughout the building, crawling up claustrophobic staircases and timeworn wooden chambers. Japanese castles, like most other things in this country, were not made with taller individuals in mind. Every now and then we would pass by a window or embrasure and look out at the ever-widening view of the city below. When we finally reached the highest point, the city and surrounding mountains unfolded before us. It was easy to see the defensive advantages of Himeji-jo - even with the obstruction of the contemporary office buildings, from the precipice of the castle one can see for miles in every direction. After we were finished at the castle, we rode the long (expensive) train back to Kyoto.

 Academic Reflection

The first article discussed the construction of castle towns, and how the narrative that was pushed since the 1950’s which argued that urban planning was controlled entirely by the daimyo is not wholly accurate. The daimyo did control many aspects of the peasants’ lives, but they also allowed a great degree of autonomy when it came to constructing towns during peacetime. The purpose of the old narrative was to place blame on a scapegoat for Japan’s totalitarian nationalization during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The town of Himeji was one such castle town, centered around the locus of Himeji-jo. We saw a model display of what the original town looked like, which was remarkably similar to its layout today.

The second article talked about the significant role Japanese castles played in the country’s history. After the siege of Nagashino, it was proven that a well fortified castle with artillery could easily withstand a traditional Japanese army. By shooting projectiles through embrasures, archers and gunmen could take out foot soldiers and stop cavalry charges dead in their tracks. We saw many of these arrow holes at Himeji, carved in al kinds of different shapes. These, along with other fortifications such as the 90 degree turns leading up to the gates and rock drops would have made Himeji-jo a very difficult castle to take.

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June 1- Kyoto Temples

Today was our first full day in Kyoto. I was planning on taking a day trip out to Osaka for the first free day, but I decided instead to spend it getting a feel for Kyoto. Sleeping on the futons was surprisingly comfortable, and I didn’t feel as sore as I expected I would when I awoke. A group of us started out the morning by visiting Chion-in temple. The temple sat on a set of steps overlooking the park below, which was home to some nice trees and shops. From here we broke up into smaller groups and I and two others went on a tour of some other temples nearby. The first of these was yasaka, a Shinto shrine in close proximity to Chion-in. There was an entrance fee of 600 yen, but it was money well spent. The path wove through a serene zen garden, posted with signs warning about snow monkeys in the area. Unfortunately, we didn’t see any monkeys, but we did see a lot of other tourists. The same was true of Kodai-Ji, the second shrine we went to. I can’t help but feel that the sheer volume of people at these shrines detracts from their peacefulness. It feels more like going through a ride queue at Disney rather than a Japanese Zen garden. The final temple we visited was Ginkaku-Ji, one of the most famous temples in Kyoto. After we finished, we met up with the others to do some shopping and watched a movie. Kyoto has a different vibe to Tokyo, but I like it. Despite all the tourists, the city displays less of the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, and there is a surprisingly lush nightlife here. I’ll definitely be enjoying my stay.

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I can't believe we're already saying goodbye to Tokyo! It's bittersweet, because while I am excited to explore Kyoto, our parting comes with the realization that the program is halfway over. The first two weeks have gone by so quickly. But I look forward to what the next two weeks have in store.

To get to Kyoto we rode the shinkansen, a high speed bullet train. The trip tool about 2 and a half hours, but I slept for a good portion of the way so it didn't feel that long. Although we reached speeds of up to 200 mph, it didn't feel like it. The ride was remarkably smooth as we zoomed through the Japanese countryside, rivers and mountains flying by the window. After we reached Kyoto we hailed taxis to take us to our new lodgings. They're cozy, to say the least. The futons and outdoor shower will take some getting used to, but like the rustic aesthetic of the place. It's a nice change of pace from our modern apartments in Tokyo.

Academic Relfection

The article discussed how the shinkansen, while technological impressive and symbolic of Japan's reconstruction after World War II, had a negative impact on the small towns that its course runs through. These towns were originally promised bountiful financial gain from the increase in tourism brought by the shinkansen. However, this was never actualized, and on reality the shinkansen resulted in many adverse ecological changes. We passed through many of these areas on our trip, which gave a visual sense of place to my understanding of the content of the reading.

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3May 31 - Mt. Takao

 Today we finally got the chance to do some hiking. As much as I really enjoy the city, I’ve been looking forward to getting out into nature. We hiked up Mt. Takao, a mountain in the outskirts of Tokyo. We were given the option of taking either the chair lift or walking the 100-minute trail. The first portion was composed of sharp switchbacks up steep inclines, something my Florida legs aren’t used to. But I enjoyed scaling the mountain, taking in the fresh air and the panoramic views of the city below. At the precipice of the mountain was a stunning view of the surrounding hills. We also visited a Shinto temple at the top of Takao. In addition to the usual charms and fountains, there were statues of Tengu standing guard by the entrance. The Tengu were an integral part of the mountain aesthetic of the temple, as they represented the spiritual aspects imbued in Japanese forests. After spending some time enjoying the fruits of our labor, we descended back down the path. This time we took the chair lift down a portion of the way. I was a little apprehensive at first since the chairs had no restraints of any kind, and I could see myself tumbling over and down the side of the mountain. Once we got on, though, it wasn’t nearly as bad as I feared. The chairs weren’t that high above the ground, and there was a net below us for most of the journey. We didn’t have anything else scheduled, so once we reached the bottom, we boarded the train back into the city.  

Academic Reflection

Trees are a vital component of Japan’s character. A naturally resource-poor island, Japan’s lush forests provided one of the only cottage industries and building material: lumber. However, due to centuries of poor regulation and ignorance of laws, today Japan’s forests are a shadow of what they used to be. It is for this reason that reforestation efforts are so popular right now, to regain a lost essential aspect of Japanese culture (and also for more pragmatic reasons, i.e. timber industry). The forest surrounding Mt. Takao is an example of reforestation, the trees only being a few centuries old.

We had to travel a fair distance outside of central Tokyo to get to a natural area, and even then, the giant concrete buildings were easily visible in a not too distant location. The forest we hiked in was far from untouched – despite being officially protected, signs of modern human civilization abounded, from ice cream vendors to trucks, and even a monk riding a moped up the trail. It was clear that Mt. Takao in its present form fulfills more of a tourism role rather than spiritual or even industrial.

[dremorablog]