evprojects

[evprojects]

Vaguely (late) 18th century men’s shirt

inspired by/mix between these two videos/patterns:

note: I made the body pieces narrower because i intend to wear this under a waistcoat. haven’t fully decided on wether I want this to have a standing collar or not. i also am doing modified box pleats to save fabric, very handy these modified pleats for ruffles. i have such good ruffles, people look at me and say “wow, look at his ruffles”

basically standard pleats use 3 times the fabric of the finished size but these only use 2 times the amount. important measurements:

shoulder width: 15 in. (width of body panels should be up to double this)

bust: 36 in. (make sure the body panels are at least 3+ in. larger than this)

wrist: 7 in. (make cuff 1 in. longer to account for buttons

recommend using a light to medium-weight linen or cotton (idk on synths)

materials:

1.5 yds of white linen (from LinenCapsule on Etsy) (on sale for $16/yd because my linen dealer is on vacation ToT)

maybe using a stiff canvas to reinforce the collar and cuffs (would only do if it’s a standing collar)

buttons (1-2 at each cuff, if button down then like 8-10 down the front)

[evprojects]

1895 waistcoat

pattern from the keystone jacket and dress cutter (1895)

a decent amount of alterations have been made (not curving the bottom of the front darts back in, lengthening the pattern by about 2 inches for personal preference (wearing with pants instead of a skirt at the natural waist), adjusting the front to be a straight line, increasing the armscye, probably a bit more that i’m not remembering)

special notes on body: 1. uncorseted/no historical structure underneath 2. wearing a binder, so this changes the distribution of mass in the tiddy area 3. i have extremely sloped shoulders, so have included shoulder padding (not historically used UNLESS for sloped/uneven shoulders)

pattern made for measurements of:

back length: 15.5” (og: 15)

front length: 19” (18.25)

blade: 12” (10)

height under arm: 8” (7.5)

bust: 36” (36)

waist: 32” (25)

took 3 fittings total (1: major edits inc. straightening front and adding ease, 2: straightening front darts and lengthening)

pattern includes: front panel (left) (with facing and marked button placement), back panel (right) front part of lapel (triangle shape), back part of lapel (other one). it’s drafted net (NO SEAM ALLOWANCES) on a 1” grid and doesn’t include any other pieces (fabric for pockets or any other parts). the translucent lines are to be followed if you’re using padding (cotton/wool batting) (padding near the arm/shoulder joint to smooth the area out)

fabric i’m using (1 yd of each):

outer: brown woolen fabric (from fabricmart, no longer sold) (on sale for ~$5/yd, idk i bought it like 3 yrs ago)

lining: black cotton sateen (from LaContinentalFabric on Etsy, $10/yd)

interlining: makeshift buckram (heavy cotton canvas stiffened with xanthan gum - 1/2 tsp in 1 c. hot water, brush on until saturated and iron BEFORE fully dried) (fabric from stash)

other supplies:

aforementioned xanthan gum (prob. 3/4 tsp total)

synthetic baleen (2 pieces per side, 9 and 10”)

some sort of tape/grosgrain/petersham ribbon (makeshift boning casing)

buttons (7 is personal choice, recommend 5-8) (undecided which)

progress shots incoming!