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Ellery Homestyles

This past week I was along a private tour of Ellery Homestyles. This tour included their showroom and the newest seasonal collection that is shown once a year at market week. It was very interesting thinking of the comparison between the fashion industry and home textiles. Their design team goes through a very similar process in design. The Designer for all bedding products studied painting in school which I thought fit the position precisely. I've always imagined myself studying fine art to graduate and entering the fashion industry somehow. I'm honestly not sure how I would feel utilizing my creative ability on product that's only seen on a home decor shelf. There are possible learning opportunities in that industry involving textiles, production and marketing.

What I found to be the most intriguing about Ellery was their fabric technology. Alike designing with fabric in fashion, the customer is always considered. How the customer reacts to the fabric is very important, either wearing it or sleeping on it. Their variety of fabric technology offered for window drape panels were endless.

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Le Labo : Santal 33

I was in West Village last Friday, and stopped in Le Labo for Santal 33. The combination of sandalwood and cedar caught my nose just walking past their store a few months ago. It's a popular unisex sent, I've noticed boys and girls wearing it either on the sidewalk or the train. Their store is a comfortable space filled with antique furniture and incredibly friendly employees. The gentleman, Brenden helped me decide what to name my personalized bottle of Santal. When deciding we realized the date 11/17 and the time, 11:17. 11 being one of my lucky numbers, and He mentioned 17 was a number that resembles some sort of guardian angel.

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Chelsea Galleries

The thing I love most about visiting art galleries, is the broadening view you experience afterward. Immediately walking out of a gallery, I saw a stack of wood from the back of a construction worker's truck. There were labels around the edges that created a interesting pattern and thought it'd make a beautiful print for a dress.

I think conceptual and contemporary art catches my eye more than any other form. After walking through some of the Chelsea art galleries and Comme des Garçons store, I couldn't help but notice more street art than I did before. Even though street art in Chelsea is everywhere, especially covering the entire entrance of the CDG store. The galleries I enjoyed most were Marlborough Contemporary and David Zwirner. All I can hope for my future is finding a job with the most perfect mixture of art and fashion.

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Brooklyn Fashion + Design Accelerator

While on site of this progressive and productive team of brands and designers was extremely exciting. Residing in Bedstuy, I never would have known “that large building on Flushing” held such creativity and community.  I was able to tour the entire loft and get a behind-the-scenes perspective of what actually happens on a regular business day. 

My perspective on fashion and design has defintely changed while studying in New York, and its been a bitter-sweet feeling. On the more bitter side, I’ve witnessed the damage the industry impacts, environmentally and behaviorally. The Brooklyn Fashion + Design Accelerator has truly been the most positive sweet side I've experienced. Every brand and designer coexisting in the work spaces seemed to be a harmonious intellectual environment. The tour gave me an outlook of what my ideal dream job could be like, and interested me enough to make me think about reaching out after graduation. Thank you BF+DA!!

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Fabric2Finish

This past week I was introduced to Jamie Koff, the owner of Fabric 2 Finish. A woman who started her own company based on her networking and knowledge of fashion production. Fabric 2 Finish takes concepts and ideas to fully produced wearable designs. Fabric 2 Finish works with all sorts of clients. Their services include fabric R&D, design, technical design, product development, and straight to production. Jamie’s knowledge of sourcing textiles and trims are very sharp, so any idea can really come to life. The best part about the process is that anyone that isn’t familiar with the industry can turn to them for all of the know-how. 

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Dear Eddie Eldridge,

I am a student in fashion design, as well as a fan and reader of Re-Edition. I find the mixture of contributors so interesting in the publication. I find Mark Borthwick's work so distinct and influential, which makes the magazine even more inspirational for me.

Being the Editor, I'm curious how you balance the responsibility of art and photography as well? I'm assuming the process is worked out in a way that you have help and extra creative eyes around you. I can recognize Lotta Volkova's impression being apart of that collaboration.

What was you're initial plan first getting established in your career? Or Was there a duration of time where career paths appeared out of thin air?

Sincerely,

Evan 

Mark Borthwick ⁄ Re-Edition Magazine.

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Global Fashion Visions and Versions

V magazine’s November Issue Lady Gaga takes the cover with subheading: “Gaga Forever”. The issue holds high end editorials  with Gucci, 205W39NYC, and MSGM. Obligatory music push and artist features “The All Stars” men and women ranging from Britney Spears to Grimes and Lana Del Rey. My personal male musician obsession as of recently,  Lil Peep has his own feature spread. The magazine’s other pages such as, V News : Calvin Klein new sunglasses “trough Raf simons’s eyes” features 205W39NYC eyewear and featured trend: “All Shines bright”. Gearing up for winter, V closes the mag with a Woolrich ad.

TEETH magazine “from fine art and fine fashion… dedicated to those who love the weird and wicked” -Devin Duckworth Founder, Editor-in-Cheif Teeth underlines editorial features for Maison Martin Margiela with vintage pieces and Damir Doma.Teeth’s music feature is Novella, a developing band and gaining momentum after deciding on a name. The entire fifth is full of beautiful art and imagery that speaks for itself.

Looking at fashion week in the perspective of a student and intern living in NY, has been a overwhelming experience. After New York’s fashion week its clear that other markets in Europe have boundaries that have been pushed way further than the US. I catch almost every show that I see on the Vogue Runway app, noticing trends within the brands and which trend the public accepts or overlooks. Almost every market displayed a fair amount of ironic garment ideas, such as trench coat inspired skirts or a bra tailored into a collared shirt. I think that was a trend that really gave the designer freedom to their creativity. I’ll just assume and hope everyone ignores the Croc resurfacing…

Au Jour Le Jour SS/18 Photo: Vogue 

Anne Sofie Madsen  Paris Fashion week was my favorite by far; Danish designer Anne Sofie Madsen swooned me beyond my high expectations for her show. Her designs show so much craft, let alone knowledge of the trade and market. Each edgy look had something elegant about it, or something so sophisticated had a perfect amount of street. The details in her collections keep me flipping back, forth, zooming in and out.

Photo From Coeval by EMON TOUFANIAN

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Caravan Stylist Studio

This past week I had the honor to meet Claudine Desola the owner and creative eye that started Caravan, now known as Caravan Stylist Studio. The company started as a pop-up mobile shopping experience where they invited brands like Levi's along for the ride. The actual Van would drive to popular areas in Manhattan, bringing neighborhoods latest products and clothing. Caravan has flourished over the years, evolving to a complete style studio with clothing, hair, makeup, and sustainable forward products.

Photo from Caravan Stylist Studio 

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5-Day Media Log

9/27- Trend: oversized and off the shoulder dress shirt. - A creative twist to the classic shirt has been a reoccurring look on either the runway or sidewalk. It's a easy and affordable trend-train to ride. Thrift stores are overflowing with men's shirts to be worn tucked, half tucked, sleeves rolled, or tied around the waist.

9/29 - Trend: optical Illusion prints - These prints are basically a walking carnival fun house. Where each line intersects with another, folds and drape help emphasize the illusion. Recent SS18 fashion shows have shown their interest as well.

10/1- Trend: Fanny Packs - Originally resting on the "Fanny", the pack is now tightened over the chest. I've actually noticed it worn over the shoulder as a purse around New York.

Photo: Vouge

Photo: Vouge

10/2- Runway review: Balenciaga SS18 - A very Vetements style collection, with a dark setting. Diverse fabric ranges from conservative tweed to high shine synthetics. The part that stood out to me the most was that there are already a handful of looks to pre-order on their website.

Photo: Vouge 

10/2- News: A$AP Mob - A$AP Rocky ventured to London and opened his very own NYC style bodega. The pop-up is fully stocked with exclusive A$AP Mob merchandise. Rocky’s hope for the store was to promote diversity and culture. New York having a large style influence from London, I think this is a great point taking a piece of NY you wouldn’t be able to find anywhere else.

Photo: Vouge

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David Shrigley

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Studying & Touring

Since I have started my first design studio in New York, I'm realizing opportunities are endless. I now have access to some of the most trusted resources in the fashion industry. These resources can be around the block, in school, at my internship, or a button and trim store.

I have toured different areas in the industry with my class. This past week we met with the owners of AGH Trim and Create-A-Marker. Pattern making is one of my favorite parts of the design process. It's the only part that can be 100% clear and precise. The tour of Create-A-Marker’s studio really opened my eyes to how vast and huge the garment district is in NY. One business could be a factory, pattern maker or marker maker.

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Fin to NYFW

New York fashion week concluded with strong, creative, and exciting collections. Season to season, New York seems more inspired by European styles. Especially right now that London and Paris are thriving and building a millennial fashion sub-culture. Same as the 1920s through 1930, RTW in the US was directly inspired by European couture.

There were so many eye-opening shows at NYFW, it's hard to choose a favorite. Instead of picking favorites I want to talk about which shows I appreciated the most based on their vision, through research and inspiration. 

1. Calvin Klein: No one other than Raf Simons can curate such a thought out, progressive show. I think it’s very brave to make a conscious approach addressing what Americans represent today, through the eyes of a primarily European designer. Going hand in hand with that idea, were the 1950s couture silhouettes that possibly hinted towards Simons’ time at Dior. 

2.Maryam Nassir Zadeh: This was their first season I’ve seen, and I couldn’t have been more interested in the atmosphere and designs. The idea screamed 80s fitness chic, using neon pink and green hues. The guests arrived at the East River Park, sitting on bleachers, as the models took the 400 meter runners track. Fabrics ranging from athletic spandex and jersey to khaki and linen.  

All Photos shared from Vogue 

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Reinventing Retail

The retail shopping experience has changed and consumers are leaning towards more convenient shopping. Company's who rely on in-store customers, are now focusing closely on how to present their store online. Amazon seems to be leading the online shopping experience.

I Visited the Rebecca Minkoff store in Soho to see what strategies they have to offer. Their merchandising team presented a interesting twist between technology and their store. They've installed enormous touch screens that flip through looks, runway photos, and even a list of complementary beverages to drink while shopping. The touch screens are also in each fitting room to adjust lighting to see how it effects each garment. A couple other brands like Nike and Ray-Ban have their own spin based on this idea.

Another exciting installation in Soho is the Maison Margiela X Totokaelo exclusive Tabi boot collaboration by Sarah Abney. Artists took the classic optical white Tabi and created a series of pairs to the customers eye. The installation is open during September to the public eye at 54 Crosby st.

Images via TOTOKAELO + Margiela + Sarah Abney

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Freya Don and I masquerade

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The Met x Rei Kawakubo : Art of the In-Between

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Art of the In-Between

I visited the Comme des Garçons exhibit twice while it was open. The first visit was so overwhelmingly unbelievable, I noticed much more during the second. The curation represented the collections not only as a whole, but individually. Each piece held an emotion like they were waiting for everyone to see their true character. I think the Met’s exhibit represented Comme des Garçons perfectly. The complexity in every look’s construction gave me chills. I was very happy to finally get the chance to see how Rei’s mind of design, pattern making, and draping created the creation. The work of Julien d'Ys headwear and wigs were very exciting to see up close as well. Some of my up-close favorites:

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Kathrin Sonntag,  Flic-flac #2, 2009