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Hemingway Hunt

Stop #1

Our first stop was at the location where the Cafe des Amateurs used to be. Nowadays, I honestly don’t get the seedy vibe from Rue Mouffetard that used to be prevalent during Hemingway’s time. It’s interesting to see how “sketchy” places of a city can change over time. It’s in the very late afternoon, almost evening, and the sky’s overcast. I’m eating one of those ice cream cones with the ice cream shaped as rose petals, and the square is bustling with people walking, shopping, and eating at various cafes. There are a group of policemen just standing at the square as well.

Stop #2

I’m getting kind of jealous of Hemingway because he was able to live in Paris at a time when there was still “cheap rent,” even if it was in the more undesirable parts of Paris. Now, it doesn’t really matter since everywhere is expensive and almost unaffordable.

Stop #3

I could definitely see Hemingway (or any sort of writer) living in one of these apartments. It would be nice to have a balcony where you could just watch the city’s foot traffic, and also the sky.

Stop #4

I bought a map for my dad at the bookstalls along the Seine. It was surprisingly affordable, and some of the stalls had very interesting posters.

Stop #5

After walking along the Seine, I went and visited Shakespeare and Company. The inside was VERY crowded to the point where there was an employee letting people in two at a time when other people would walk out. I couldn’t fit anywhere to sit, so I just sat on one of the benches in the little park outside.

Stop #6

I got to see the location where Gertrude Stein used to live, commemorated by this plaque.

One of the most stereotypical “starving writer” things that Hemingway explains in A Movable Feast is his “Walk Without Getting Hungry.” Since Hemingway would skip meals in order to save money, he would try to visit the Musee du Luxembourg and look at the paintings in order to curb his appetite, and even claimed that looking at the art while “belly-empty, hollow-hungry” gave a sense of clarity that only hunger could give. I wonder if he saw a lot of paintings of food in the Musee du Luxembourg.

Hemingway’s end goal was the Place St. Sulpice, which was void of restaurants (in order to keep food out of his mind) and was a nice, quiet place to sit after walking down the narrow rue Ferou.

Outside this enormous church was the fountain that has lions and saints surrounding it. Lots of pigeons as well.

Stop #7

Hemingway finally stopped for food at Brasserie Lipp. He ordered two orders of potato salad, beer, bread with olive oil, and cervelas which was a large sausage split in the middle and covered in mustard. It sounds like a very heavy, filling meal and follows French custom of eating a large lunch.

Stop #8 & #9

Two other cafes that Hemingway was a regular at was the Cafe de Flore and Deux Magots. Cafe de Flore looked especially aesthetically pleasing.

Stop #10

Michaud’s, one of Hemingway’s favorite restaurants, is now converted to Les Comptoir des Saints Peres. He used to meet up with his close friend, F. Scott Fitzgerald.

Stop #11

Hotel d’Angleterre, the hotel that Hemingway first stayed at when he arrived at Paris, looks beautiful now along with the courtyard. 

Stop #12

This was our last stop in completing our Hemingway hunt. Natalie Barney used to live here down rue Jacob, and was also a writer friend of Hemingway’s. Chapter 2 is when Hemingway revealed in his conversation with Gertrude Stein how he felt about homosexuality. He used very vague terms in explaining how he felt like male homosexuality was predatory, and that he felt threatened by it and was constantly on the lookout of being taken advantage of in that way. Stein doesn’t necessarily disagree with him since she sees female homosexuality as a different subject, and not really under the same unity and umbrella as just “homosexuality” as a whole. She offers an explanation to Hemingway about why he felt that threatened by male homosexuality by calling the people that Hemingway was around “a milieu of criminals and perverts.” I guess he found it more important to be more quiet about his intolerance since he was friends with a number of lesbians, and instead direct his revulsion towards male homosexuality.

Conclusion

My favorite line was in chapter 7 on the subject of “the lost generation” in which Hemingway was a part of. “I thought that all generations were lost by something and always had been and always would be.” It accurately describes how each generation has something to say about the others preceding and following them. This is also pertinent to how our generation, Generation Z, is feeling towards climate change, skyrocketing cost of living, and a stagnant minimum wage.

A part of the book that I found humorous was the luncheon with Ford Maddox Ford. I could feel Hemingway’s frustration with having to talk in circles with Ford, and it was a very relatable moment since I’ve been in situations where I’ve been trapped into talking with someone that comes off the wrong way. I don’t think Hemingway writes Ford as an unlikable character even though some of his actions may irritate others around him. It just seemed like a humorous situation from the outside.

Paris is Hemingway’s “Moveable Feast” because even when he leaves Paris, he feels like he takes it with him. The city leaves such an impression on one’s heart (how picturesque it is, the relaxed way of eating at cafes, stylish fashion) that one’s actions are influenced by that impression while in other locations. I tend to agree with this sentiment, because even now as I write this, I can vividly recall the streets I am familiar with, and how I am able to reconstruct these locations with my mind’s eye.

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July 20th

Today was the day that I started my journey home. I was very impressed by the train ride to the Charles de Gaulle airport was very straightforward-- it didn’t stop once after leaving the Metro. I’m not sure if that was a specific train that I happened to get on, or if in the morning the train doesn’t stop in the suburbs. But it was very easy to get to the airport, and I didn’t really have trouble with going through security or tagging my luggage (which was, surprisingly, under the weight limit and I did not have to pay extra fortunately.)

I watched four movies while I was on the plane: Mamma Mia, Hot Fuzz, Us, and Ant Man and the Wasp. I only really liked Us, and I was really glad I finally got around to watching it.

Getting through American customs was a different story. The line was long, we had to answer questions on why we were coming into America (I live here...), and I had to listen to the same child scream and cry since I was in line for the TSA checks at Charles de Gaulle. It’s safe to say that I was ready to be picked up by my dad once I made it out.

Thinking back at how I was in another country at the start of today is very strange, and honestly it feels like a dream. I’m very glad that I was able to experience Paris, and it makes me kind of sad thinking about how it will never be the same as when I first experience it, even if I get the chance to return. But I think that being able to visit at the age of 20 was the perfect age, and three weeks was the perfect length of time.

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July 19th

Today was everyone’s departure days, but since I changed my travel plans to come back a week earlier than I had originally planned, I stayed in the Maison des Mines for one more night (for only 34 euro!) and traveled across the city to buy souvenirs for the people back home and also dedicate time to work on the remaining assignments for both of the courses I’ve been enrolled in for the trip.

Among my souvenirs was a map of Paris for my dad, and earrings, tea, and a tea cup for my mom. I also got honey candy and a poster from one of the stalls along the Seine for my friends.

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July 18th

Today was the last day of our trip! It was very relaxed, since all we had planned on the itinerary was to eat lunch in the Jardin du Luxembourg. Even though it was very simple, it was a good end to our program since we were able to sit in a circle and debrief and reflect about our past three weeks.

Since everyone was leaving in the morning tomorrow, we decided to have an early night.

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July 17

Today was one of our longer days, since we haven’t really had a day that went throughout the afternoon in a while.Our morning started with the Atelier des Lumieres, which is a sort of unique light show/projection production that cycled through three “shows,” which displayed Van Gogh’s paintings, various traditional Japanese art, and also an original production that focused on the movement of stars.

Surprisingly, I personally enjoyed the Japanese art show the most. I’ve always loved Van Gogh’s paintings, so it was very neat to see all of them displayed with accompanying music, but I really enjoyed the sense of movement in the Japanese art show. It ended with a display of lanterns floating around the walls and floors, which I was very impressed and moved by.

In the afternoon, we had a class on graffiti, and used spray paint to make art on the walls of a skate park. It was super interesting and really fun to see everything come together at the end, and learning about proper shading techniques by visualizing where the hypothetical light source would be.

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July 16

We were able to go to a museum today that had an exhibition dedicated to comparing and contrasting the works of Calder and Picasso, artists who both lived at the same time and were pioneers in experimental, avant-garde art.

Afterwards, we had a nice lunch near the metro stop and some of us got ice cream from Magnum. I had a vanilla ice cream popsicle that was rolled in dark chocolate, coconut, almonds, and dried pieces of caramel.

Tonight we’re going to go see a play called “The Lesson,” which is a prime example of French absurdism. I’m very excited to see it because I’d be very interested in seeing how they choose to portray it, and that the very way that they portray it at this theatre has the playwright’s stamp of approval.

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July 15

We had another off day today, so I took advantage of it to both rest and catch up on schoolwork and our reading. I joined people for lunch in the afternoon, and also went out shopping. A lot of the stores that we went into weren’t really that special to be honest, because it looked like things that you could buy in the United States at a regular mall. But I did find a very pretty multi-colored blouse, which fit me well and I decided to buy even though it wasn’t on sale.

We’re going to be eating a late dinner at a picnic underneath the Eiffel Tower, and we might end up going up it. 

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July 14

Today was Bastille Day, which is basically the French version of the Fourth of July in America. The storming of the Bastille, which was a prison, was a significant event in French history, which is commemorated on the fourteenth of July. Now, it’s a very military-centered holiday, with a lot of news coverage on jets, tanks, and President Macron shaking the hands of disabled war veterans. I got to watch the news coverage of Bastille Day while I was eating lunch in a restaurant.

We also sat outside of the Pantheon in order to see the fireworks that were going to be set off at the top of the Eiffel tower, because there was a perfect view of the Eiffel Tower from there. But they were set up more near the base, which made it difficult to see because people wanted to stand in front of us even though we got there like two hours beforehand.

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July 13

Today was our Paris solo day! Each person got their own individualized trip to go on, and we reconvened at the very tip of the Ile de la Cite, which had a large weeping willow planted there. I got sent to the Musee Bourdelle, which showcased works by Antoine Bourdelle. A lot of his work was sculptures, and I got to watch a very interesting video on how Bourdelle used his plaster molds to pour hot metal and shape his statues.

There was also a fashion exhibit called “Dos a la mode” or “Backside.” It was an analysis on the importance of the back of garments in fashion, and how it can be overlooked by designers since the front is more often emphasized. A reason why designers would concentrate on the back more is because of the age-old saying that “people don’t remember exactly what you said, but they’ll remember how it made them feel.” The last impression is the one that is still fresh in people’s minds, and what they’ll be left with.

Another viewpoint that was brought up in the museum was how in Western cultures, the “back” is usually used metaphorically in a negative light-- such as “backhanded compliment,” “backstabbing,” “talking behind someone’s back,” “breaking one’s back,” etc. However, especially in Japanese culture, the back is used in a more positive light.

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July 12

We had a day off today, so I took the opportunity to visit the Paris Plage. I first went to the one at the Seine Riverbank, and then took the 7 out to the one at the canal so I could swim. They gave me a key in exchange for my ID to be able to lock up my belongings while I swam. I read some of A Movable Feast, ate lunch, and just relaxed in the sun.

Afterwards, I went over to the Little Tokyo district to buy a yukata (summer kimono) and geita (sandals.) These are for me to wear at Japanese summer festivals, and the next one is going to be the one in Lexington in the courthouse lawn. I went there last year, and it was really neat. I’ve been wanting to buy a yukata for a really long time since it would let me actively participate in my culture, so I guess that’s justifying me spending a lot more money that it was probably worth, even though the design is beautiful. I’ll need to budget my money more carefully though, since I still need to buy my mom a present and buy various souvenirs for friends.

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July 11

Our visit to Versailles today was a long one, but I’m actually glad that we spent as much time as we did and devoted a whole day for it. I found the gardens very beautiful, and I loved how there were scattered estates and other landmarks within it. I never knew how big it was, because I only thought that the gardens were restricted to the fountains, since it was the only pictures I’ve seen. The palace itself was very crowded, so I enjoyed walking through the Grand and Petite Trianons, because it really did give the feel of a summer house away from everything.

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July 10

The Musee d’Orsay has hands down been my favorite museum that I’ve gone to in Paris. The Met still has first place for my favorite, though. I really enjoy looking at Impressionist, Post-Impressionist, and Art Nouveau art the most, so this museum was right up my ally. I also gravitated towards a contemporary art exhibit for a visiting artist from England, Tracey Emin. I usually like contemporary art that is sketchy and have a connection to poetry. My favorite piece that I felt really spoke to me in the exhibit is her drawing entitled “I Stood and Cryed,” which depicts a figure, with their face half in shadow, with a halo around their head which draws to mind the paintings of the Virgin Mary.

We went to a really good, very affordable cafe for lunch. I got creme brulee, which was really good.

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July 9

We walked around a lot today and were able to see a lot of the squares built-- like the Place des Vosges and the Place de l’Arsenal. Going into the Conciergerie was cool too, because it really gave us a feel on how the prisoners of the Revolution were actually treated. The cells were pretty small-- it seemed bearable for one person, but a plaque detailed that up to seven people were sometimes crammed into one space.

We also went to the Guignol show in the Luxembourg gardens. Being completely honest, I thought it was going to be creepy, but I found it cute and I know why kids get so excited to see it. I also think it’s really powerful how it’s teaching French children how to behave during plays and why to support the arts. I wish that we had something affordable like that in the US!

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July 8

We went to Monet’s house in Giverny today, since it was our day off. It was interesting being able to visit it, since I had done a project about the place when I was a sophomore in high school. I never thought that I’d be able to see it in real life. The flowers were all in bloom, but I was kind of disappointed that I wasn’t able to see any sunflowers both in the garden and on the bus ride to and from Giverny. The rooms with all the same color were very aesthetically pleasing. A kid was screaming the entire time we were in the garden outside of the house which somewhat detracting from the experience.

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July 7

Even at 9 a.m., the Louvre was PACKED. The most iconic paintings, like the Mona Lisa and Liberty Leading the People had a constant swarm of people at the base, to the point where it was necessary to get assertive to first get up front, but also maintain your area when people start trying to push you away. Crowds don’t bother some people, but for me it sometimes can detract from the experience-- especially in an art museum where things are usually quiet and calm so people can stop and really look at the art.

The production of Galileo by the Comedie Francaise was very intricate, captivating, and kept the message of Galileo’s story intact. I really wish that we had subtitles, but I understand that it was the national French theatre and it’s somewhat entitled to expect that English captioning would be offered. It was pretty easy to follow along with what was happening since we already read the play, but I kinda got lost after the production started deviating from the version that we had read. It was still a very cool experience, since the effects and costuming (things that thankfully don’t need a translation) were amazing.

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July 6

I was kind of disappointed that we weren’t going to be able to see the interior of the Notre Dame due to the fire that happened back in April, but Sainte Chapelle was still beautiful. My favorite part was definitely seeing all of the stained glass, and also the rose window. I took a lot of pictures, and I bought a circular postcard to send to my grandmother for her birthday.

It was fun being able to dress up to go to the Palais Garnier. It was beautiful inside, but I honestly thought that the main staircase was bigger. Everyone thought that the ballet was over during the intermission, which caused some confusion. I think that it was rooted in the fact that the first act was a story with a definite ending, and people applauded afterwards. But the other two shorter acts were also enjoyable.

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July 5

Today was probably one of the most physically laborious days. We went to Montmatre and visited Sacre-Coeur, which entailed walking up the stairs at the base of the hill, and then walking up countless flights of stairs in order to get to the top of the tower. The scenery was worth it, though, and I’m glad I got some pictures of me at the top.

I also enjoyed going to the Montmatre museum, since it had a lot of impressionist artwork, and I learned a lot about the history surrounding the area.

One of the things I’m having the most difficult with is keeping my energy up throughout the day. I’m an introvert, so by the afternoon, my social battery is drained and all I want to do is head back to my dorm to have alone time and recharge. This causes me to want to rush through certain attractions and potentially miss important things.