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RED- AND WHITECURRANTS

If you have ever seen a well-cultivated red- or whitecurrant bush, you’ll appreciate just how bountiful they are – they can literally drip with jewel-like fruit. They have the advantage that they are easy to grow, even in moderate shade, and can be planted against walls and in roomy containers if space is limited, which means they are ideal for smaller gardens. The fruits freeze well and have a high pectin content (making them excellent for jams and jellies).

1. GETTING STARTED Red- and whitecurrants grow best in a sheltered site on moist yet free-draining soil. Plants grown in pots are widely available throughout the year, or can be bought bare-root during autumn. If deciding between the two types, redcurrants generally have a sharper, more acidic flavour; whitecurrants are sweeter tasting.

‘Jonkheer van Tets’ is an early variety that produces a large crop of rich, bright red fruit.

‘Red Lake’ produces long  “strigs” of berries from midsummer. It is a large, vigorous shrub.

‘Junifer’ is a compact, high-yielding, earlyseason, French variety with bright red fruit.

‘Versailles Blanche’ fruits in midsummer, giving a plentiful harvest of sweet-tasting berries.

2. PLANTING Currants establish best when planted between autumn and spring, although container-raised plants can be planted at any time if kept moist. They can be planted in sun but don’t mind a shady spot, and can be grown against north- or east-facing walls. Prepare the site by digging it over, space plants 80cm (32in) apart, then water well and mulch after planting. In smaller plots, plant into 50cm (20in) wide pots filled with soil-based compost.

Plant red- and whitecurrants so that all growth emerges from a short stem, or “leg”, just above the soil surface.

Fill in between the roots of bare-root plants with soil; lightly tease out the roots of pot-grown bushes before planting them.

Firm the soil after planting to remove air pockets, ensuring the “leg” remains above the soil surface. Water in well.

3. ROUTINE CARE Plants will require regular watering in their first summer to encourage root establishment. After this time they become more drought- tolerant, but yields will be improved by regular watering in spring and summer. Mulch plants with rich, well-rotted organic matter, and apply a dressing of high-potash fertilizer every spring.

Organic mulch retains moisture, reducing the need for watering during summer. It also degrades, providing nutrients for your plants.

4. PROTECTING THE FRUIT Birds will quickly strip plants of berries, so erect a cage of netting over your bushes as soon as the fruits begin to ripen. (Whitecurrants turn from green to translucent white as they near maturity). Ensure all netting is pulled taut to prevent birds becoming trapped. Remove the net after harvesting.

Birds love berries and will repeatedly raid your plants. Net individual bushes or consider buying a fruit cage if you have several plants.

5. HARVESTING The berries are carried on trailing stems or “strigs”, which should be picked whole once all the berries along them have ripened. Pull the strig from the stem using your fingers, or carefully snip them with scissors. Check your bushes every three or four days to harvest the berries at their best.

Harvest the fruit as whole strigs rather than as individual berries, as they are small and easily squashed. Eat the berries fresh or freeze them.

6. PRUNING Currants fruit at the base of stems that are at least a year old. In early- to midsummer, prune the new stems back to 10–15cm (4–6in) to encourage more fruiting spurs, which will also help the fruit ripen and improve airflow. In winter, cut the pruned stems back to two buds above the cluster of buds at the base of the stem and remove any dead or diseased growth.

Pruning encourages fruiting spurs that develop in clusters at the base of cut stems.

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RASPBERRIES

You could be forgiven for thinking that raspberries demand a lot of space – visit any allotment and you’ll see row after row of canes. However, for the majority of people these will yield too much fruit. Raspberries are easy to grow: just a few canes on a small plot will produce a rewarding crop, and modern “dwarf”varieties are now available. By choosing summer- and autumn-fruiting varieties, you’ll be able to enjoy sweet berries from midsummer right through to the first frosts.

1. GETTING STARTED Summer-fruiting raspberries crop from mid- to late summer; autumn varieties fruit from late summer to mid-autumn, so plant both for the longest harvest. Summer raspberries should be planted against horizontal wires held 40cm (16in) and 80cm (32in) above the soil. Autumn-fruiting varieties can be grown free-standing.

-Polka is a disease-resistant, nearly spine-free, variety that bears delicious, sweet berries. ‘

-Cascade Delight is a free-fruiting summer raspberry, with large, rich-tasting berries.

-Tulameen fruits in summer over several weeks, and is a good choice for cooler areas.

-All Gold crops in autumn, producing tasty yellow fruits that won’t stain your fingers.

2. PLANTING New canes are best planted in late autumn, although planting in winter and early spring is also an option. Canes are generally sold bare-root or root-wrapped – lifted from the ground and bundled together loosely in compost. They prefer moist, free-draining soil, and will tolerate a little shade. Dig well-rotted organic matter into the soil in autumn, allowing it to settle for two weeks before planting. Space the canes 30cm (12in) apart in rows at least 1m (3ft) apart.

-Plant new canes in evenly spaced rows and provide suitable support for summer-fruiting varieties. Water and mulch after planting.

-New shoots develop in spring after which the original woody cane can be cut to the ground. This will encourage further new canes to develop.

Note : Rasberries are easy to grow in large tubs, especially compact varieties

3. ROUTINE CARE Keep plants well watered during summer and apply a tomato feed to promote a good harvest. Mulch near the base of the canes with composted organic matter to help retain moisture. As soon as the fruit starts to ripen, protect it from birds. Cover plants with a cage or use netting, held taut using canes to prevent snaring birds.

-Water the plants once or twice a week during summer, even daily on light soils during dry spells. Avoid splashing the stems, which spreads disease.

-Birds soon attack summer raspberries but are less interested in autumn-fruiting varieties, which crop as other wild berries become abundant.

4. HARVESTING The berries are ready as soon as they turn fully red or yellow, depending on the variety, and pull easily from the plant leaving the central “plug” behind. Avoid picking on rainy days as wet fruit does not store well. Check your plants daily to ensure you harvest them at the perfect point of ripeness.

-Handle the berries carefully when picking as they are easily damaged. Squashed fruits quickly spoil so are best eaten straightaway.

5. SUMMER PRUNING Summer-fruiting raspberries are pruned straight after the last fruits have been harvested, cutting the fruited canes to the base. Younger, unfruited stems, produced that summer, should be tied to the wires in their place. Keep only the strongest and tie them in 10cm (4in) apart, to fruit next year.

-After pruning summer varieties, tie the new shoots onto horizontal wires. These will fruit the following year, then be replaced by new growth.

6. WINTER PRUNING Autumn raspberries are pruned in winter by cutting all the canes down to the ground. Alternatively, to encourage a staggered harvest the following year, cut a few canes down by only half their height in winter. The half-height canes will then produce an earlier crop in early to midsummer. These fruited canes can then be pruned out completely after harvesting.

-Cut autumn-fruiting canes closely to the ground. New shoots will appear in late spring.

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BRUSSELS SPROUTS

A winter plot would be incomplete without Brussels sprouts, and there is a range of varieties that will crop from mid-autumn right through until early spring. Individual “buttons” develop over a long period, meaning that two or three plants can provide a steady supply through the winter months. In addition to the tasty sprouts is a further treat: the sprout “top” – a loose rosette of leaves that has a deliciously mild flavour. These are high in quality if not in quantity.

1. GETTING STARTED For a large crop, Brussels sprouts are worth raising from seed, although they can also be bought as plants in spring. Prepare your site by digging in plenty of well-rotted manure or compost during the season before planting. Brussels sprouts prefer a pH of at least 6.8, so apply lime to the soil if yours falls well below that.

-Crispus produces small, dark green sprouts with fantastic flavour. Good standing ability.

-Kalette produces unusual-looking, sweet, nutty sprouts from October to March.

-Trafalgar bears heavy crops of reliable, firm, flavourful sprouts from midwinter to early spring.

-Maximus is a highyielding variety, bearing sweet green sprouts over a long season.

2. SOWING SEEDS To sow seed in the ground, dig over the soil to remove any weeds, firm it well, and rake it level. Either sow a short drill, 2cm (3⁄4in) deep, from which seedlings will be moved to their final position, or sow clusters of seed at 60 x 60cm (24 x 24in) apart – this allows you to thin each cluster to the strongest seedling, minimizing root disturbance. You can also start plants off in modules under cover. Fill a module tray with seed compost, firm gently, and water. Sow two seeds per cell, 2cm (3⁄4in) deep, before covering them with compost. Water lightly and, once germinated, thin out to leave the strongest seedling per module.

-Sprinkle the seed evenly along the base of a short drill, with a view to transplanting them later. This makes best use of limited space.

-If you are sowing under cover, sow the seed into holes spaced 5cm (2in) apart. Prick the seedlings out when they are strong enough to handle.

3. PLANTING OUT Once tray-grown plants reach 10–12cm (4–5in) in height, harden them off ready for life outside. Prepare seedbed-raised sprouts for transplanting by watering the bed thoroughly. Dig over the soil ready for planting, rake it level, and firm well. Space the seedlings 60 x 60cm (24 x 24in) apart, and water in well.

-Transplant the healthiest of your seedlings once they have reached 10–12cm (4–5in) tall and have four or five true leaves.

-Ensure that the seedlings are planted 60cm (24in) apart so that the plants remain well ventilated. Plant Brussels sprouts in firmly.

-Use brassica collars to deter cabbage root fly, which is a common brassica pest that can cause the young plants to die.

4. PROTECTING PLANTS Fit brassica collars around the base of each seedling to prevent attack from cabbage root fly, and erect a frame of netting over plants to deter pigeons and cabbage white butterflies. Brussels sprouts can grow to at least 80cm (32in) in height, so ensure the frame is tall enough.

-Netting should be pulled taut to prevent birds becoming snagged. Regularly check for gaps at the base where birds or butterflies could get in.

5. ROUTINE CARE Keep the top-heavy plants stable by earthing up soil around their bases or stake them with canes. The lower leaves will yellow as they age, and should be picked off to encourage good air flow around the developing buttons. Keep plants well watered and fed using a high-nitrogen liquid fertilizer.

-Older leaves near the base of the stems yellow naturally and die off ; they are not a sign of poor health. They should snap off easily.

6. HARVESTING Harvest sprouts when large enough by firmly twisting them off; older cultivars mature from the bottom of the stem upwards. Newer hybrids mature more evenly, and can be cut as whole stems. Stand them indoors in water in the cool and harvest as needed.

-Sprouts taste especially sweet from late winter, once they have been frosted a few times.

Note : Harvest the delicious leafy “top” before picking the sprouts themselves.

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CALABRESE

It’s well worth growing your own calabrese because home-grown crops are much more tender and flavorful than shop-bought types. The plants produce one main central head and then numerous smaller side-shoots, which prolong the harvest period; the florets also freeze well, so any gluts can be preserved for later. If you’re too short of space to sow in pots or modules indoors, direct sowings in summer outdoors will perform extremely well.

1. GETTING STARTED Calabrese prefer rich, well-drained soil, so dig in plenty of organic matter such as well-rotted manure or compost in the season before you intend to plant. Make sure that no other members of the brassica family have been planted in the same location in the previous year; this will help to prevent the build-up of soil pests and diseases.

-Fiesta produces large, well-rounded heads and a good crop of secondary side-shoots.

-Ironman produces a reliable crop of dome-shaped, blue–green heads with fine buds.

-Belstar keeps well once cut and is worth growing for its tasty blue-green heads.

-Kabuki can be harvested when young for a second crop. Good for small spaces.

2. SOWING SEEDS Calabrese can be sown under cover in pots or large modules to transplant later. Fill the container with seed compost, firm gently, water well, and make two holes per pot or module, 1cm (1⁄2in) deep. Drop a seed into each hole, cover with compost, and water in lightly. Once emerged, thin to leave the stronger seedling. Alternatively, seed can be sown directly into the final position outside. Create a seedbed: mark out rows 30cm (12in) apart and sow a cluster of three seeds every 20cm (8in), into holes 2cm (3⁄4in) deep. Thin the seedlings to the strongest and use organic pellets for slug protection.

-Calabrese can be overwintered in a frost-free greenhouse for harvests in early spring. Sow two or three seeds in each individual pot in late summer or early autumn.

-After germination seedlings will need to be thinned to one per pot or module as they develop. When they are about 15cm (6in) tall they will be ready to plant out.

3. PLANTING OUT Once indoor-sown plants are 15cm (6in) tall, harden them off and plant out 20cm (8in) apart, in rows 30cm (12in) apart. Don’t let them become root-bound as this can cause the premature formation of small heads. Keep the plants well watered and well weeded. Put a brassica collar around each plant to deter cabbage root fly.

-Divide up your plot using bamboo canes and string – this will help you work out your plant spacings and will provide support for netting.

-Young plants should be hardened off and planted out as soon as possible in spring, as they cope best with being moved if the weather is not too warm.

4. ROUTINE CARE As the heads of the plants begin to develop, draw soil around the base of the stems to stabilize them – this is called “earthing up”. At this point a liquid high-nitrogen fertilizer can be applied to boost the main head size and to encourage the production of side-shoots for subsequent harvests.

-Tall varieties may need staking if earthing up does not provide sufficient support. Tie the plants in to sturdy bamboo canes as necessary.

5. PROTECTING PLANTS Erect a frame of netting over your plants to deter birds – especially pigeons and cabbage white butterflies. Ensure the net is fine, with a maximum mesh diameter of 5mm (1⁄4in) to stop the adult butterflies reaching your plants, and keep it taut to reduce the risk of birds becoming entangled in it.

-Mealy cabbage aphids target brassica crops and can swarm plants, disfiguring the leaves. Aim to protect crops at an early stage.

6- HARVESTING The first cutting can be expected approximately 3–4 months after sowing, depending on the variety and time of year. Cut the main head off first and when the smaller side-shoots appear, harvest these. Young, tender leaves of calabrese can also be eaten.

-Use a knife to cut the heads whole before the tight flower buds begin to open. This encourages a second crop.

Note : Calabrese plants spaced closely (15cm/6in apart) give a flush of small heads.

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CAULIFLOWERS

It is possible to grow and harvest delicious fresh cauliflowers all year round – there is a wide range of varieties to choose from. As well as conventional white-headed types you can also grow cauliflowers with striking purple, orange, or green heads. Space the plants widely so that the heads can grow to full size, or densely in containers to produce “mini” cauliflowers. They can produce high yields if given enough food and water.

1. GETTING STARTED Cauliflowers that mature from autumn to spring are sown when conditions are warming up: sow direct into warm soils in late spring to early summer. Conversely, cauliflowers that mature in summer are sown in late winter; for these varieties sowing in modules under cover is the best method.

-Snowball is sown in spring for an autumn harvest; the medium-sized heads keep well.

-Violet Queen bears purple heads in late summer that turn green when cooked.

-Graffiti is a striking, purple-headed variety: the color intensifies with light exposure.

-Romanesco has lime-green curds that are both highly ornamental and full of flavor.

2. SOWING UNDER COVER Fill module trays or pots with compost, water well, and allow to drain. Make a hole 1cm (1⁄2in) deep in each cell and sow two seeds into it. Firm over with compost and water in. When seedlings have emerged, thin to leave the stronger seedling.

-Summer and autumn varieties are sown in early to midwinter and then placed in a propagator.

-Keep seedlings well watered; these thirsty plants require sufficient water at all stages.

3. SOW OUTSIDE For winter and spring cauliflowers, you can sow the seed direct in late spring. Prepare a seedbed by digging over the ground, incorporating plenty of organic matter. Then excavate a short drill, 2cm (3⁄4in) deep. Water the base thoroughly, sow your seeds, and then cover with soil to level and water in lightly. To prevent a build-up of soil pests and diseases, don’t plant cauliflowers where other brassica crops have grown in the past year.

-Sow seed thinly along the drill. Once the seedlings develop they can be thinned if necessary.

3. PLANTING OUT Harden off module-raised seedlings when they are 15cm (6in) tall. Place them outdoors during the day and inside at night for a week. Once seedbed-raised plants reach this height, water them well and then lift gently from the soil. Summer varieties should be spaced 60cm (24in) apart; winter types 70cm (28in) apart.

-Hardened-off cauliflowers should be planted promptly. There is a risk of plants bolting if they become root bound.

-Plant both module-grown and seedbed-raised seedlings in soil that has had a high-nitrogen granular feed incorporated.

-Firm the plants in well. The heads will become very heavy as they grow and will need to be well supported.

4. PROTECTING PLANTS Water in your transplants, and fit a brassica collar around the base of each. Place netting with a maximum mesh diameter of 5mm (1⁄4in) around plants. This will deter cabbage white butterflies and pigeons. Hoe between young plants; established cauliflowers will smother any competing plants.

-Ensure that netting reaches the ground, leaving no gaps for pests to fly underneath – peg the netting down or bury it in the soil.

5. ROUTINE CARE It’s especially important to keep cauliflowers well watered during the summer months to obtain a good-sized curd. As these develop, bend a few leaves in over the head – this protects summer varieties from being “burnt” by the sun. It also offers winter types some frost protection.

-Covering the cauliflower head with its leaves will prevent white varieties from yellowing in the sun. Secure the leaves in place with string.

6. HARVESTING As soon as the curds reach a harvest-able size, cut them from the plant; they will keep better if you cut them with a few leaves attached. The heads are best eaten fresh but can be stored in the fridge for a few days. Blanch and freeze surplus heads.

-Make sure you harvest cauliflowers when they are at their best. The heads will be tight and composed of tiny, firm buds.

Note : Grow in pots for “mini” 6cm (21⁄2in) wide curds. Space 15cm (6in) apart.

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WINTER AND SPRING CABBAGES

From deep green, crinkle-leaved savoys to pointed, dense-hearted spring cabbages, these hardy brassicas are invaluable during the leaner months of the year. Spring-cropping plants can be packed tightly together, making efficient use of small plots. They also give a useful secondary crop of loose leaves in spring if the cut stumps are left to grow back. Always cover your crops with netting to protect them from pests such as pigeons and caterpillars.

1. GETTING STARTED The best way to raise both winter and spring cabbages is from seed, sown under cover in late spring. You can also sow seeds indoors in summer and then plant out or sow them directly into the soil outdoors. Alternatively, if you are planning to grow just a few cabbages, you can buy young plants in summer, which is an easier but more costly option.

-Tundra is a winter variety that can be left in the ground for several weeks until needed.

-Traviata has dense heads of crinkled leaves with great flavour, and good disease resistance.

-January King can be cropped in autumn as young heads, or left to mature through winter.

-Kilaton produces dense, round autumn cabbages and has good resistance to club root.

2. SOWING UNDER COVER Raising plants under cover helps reduce the effects of club root disease on your plants. Fill module trays with seed compost, water well and allow to drain. Make holes 1cm (1⁄2in) deep in each cell, sow one seed in each, then thin to leave the strongest seedling once they emerge. Grow the young plants on under cover until 15cm (6in) tall. Prepare them for outdoor conditions by moving them outside during the day, then back in at night.

-Cabbage seeds are reliable but sow two to a cell, just in case one fails. They are large and easy to handle, allowing you to sow them accurately.

-Grow the seedlings on in a bright position under cover for two or three weeks, until they can be planted out into beds. Keep them cool but frost-free.

Note : Acclimatize plants to outdoor temperatures for about two weeks.

3. SOWING OUTDOORS Cabbages can be sown outside in summer when the soil has warmed up and transplanted at seedling stage. Prepare a seedbed by digging over the soil, removing weeds, and raking it level. Make drills, 2cm (3⁄4in) deep, water the base well, then sow the seed thinly. Fill with soil, firm, and lightly water again. Seeds will germinate in a week or two.

-Prepare the soil before planting out your seedlings. Digging in some well-rotted organic matter will help encourage plenty of leafy growth.

-Make drills long enough to suit the size of your plot. To retain moisture during dry spells, cover with newspaper until the seeds germinate.

4.PLANTING OUT Plant out your winter cabbages in summer and your spring cabbages in autumn. Dig over the site to remove weeds and fork in high-nitrogen granular fertilizer. Plant out or transplant winter seedlings 50cm (20in) apart, and spring types 30cm (12in) apart.

-Young cabbage plants are ready to plant out when they are about 15cm (6in) tall. If much larger or smaller, they may be slow to establish.

5. ROUTINE CARE Water plants regularly, especially during dry spells. To encourage strong growth before winter, apply high-nitrogen liquid feed in late summer, as directed on the packet. Weed the beds regularly and remove any yellowing leaves from the plants.

-Cabbages develop a crown of leaves so aim the water directly at the base to ensure it reaches the roots. Use a watering can with a long spout.

6. HARVESTING When individual cabbage heads are large enough to use, harvest them as needed during winter and spring, using a sharp knife to cut through the stalk. To maximize your crop, leave the stumps of spring cabbages to grow on in the soil. Use a knife to make a cross in the cut end – this will encourage the stumps to produce a crop of fresh, loose leaves which can be harvested a few weeks later.

-Loose spring leaves make a useful bonus crop after the cabbage heads have been harvested.

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SUMMER AND AUTUMN CABBAGES

Whether you eat cabbage leaves as part of your classic Sunday roast or use them in dishes such as stir-fries, they are a mainstay crop for your vegetable patch. Cabbages can be grown throughout the year, with summer and autumn varieties producing a large, reliable harvest if they are kept well-watered and covered with nets. Once harvested, the stumps can be left in the ground to re-sprout and give a second crop of loose leaves, making the best use of your plot.

1. SOWING UNDER COVER For an early harvest, sow summer varieties under cover in spring. Fill trays or modules with seed compost, water well, allow to drain, then sow the seeds 2cm (3⁄4in) deep. When the seedlings appear, thin them out to leave the strongest, then prick the remaining seedlings out into small pots. Grow the young plants on indoors in a cool, bright spot for a few weeks longer.

-Sow the seeds thinly and check them daily until seedlings emerge. They don’t need additional heat.

-Thin seedlings as they develop in their trays; those left can be pricked out into small pots.

Note : Cabbages, like most brassicas, are prone to club root.

2. SOWING OUTSIDE Although cabbages are often sown under cover, they can also be sown outside directly into the soil. A few weeks before sowing, dig over the soil, remove any weeds, firm it, and then rake the surface level. Excavate a drill 2cm (3⁄4in) deep, water it well, and then sow the seeds thinly along the base. Cover over with soil, firm gently, and water lightly. When the seedlings have a few leaves, thin them out, leaving the strongest. Water regularly and protect plants from slugs and snails.

-Carefully tip seeds, directly from the packet or use your fingers to sow them in pinches.

-Thin the seedlings to their final spacing or transplant them once they reach 15cm (6in) tall.

3. PLANTING OUT Once large enough, move the young plants, raised indoors or out, to their final positions. Prepare the area first by digging it over, removing weeds, and applying some high-nitrogen granular fertilizer. Water the young plants well and lift them from the seedbed, or from their trays or pots, and plant them out 40cm (16in) apart.

-Transplant young plants carefully to minimize root loss or disturbance, which can check growth. Water in well after planting.

-Young plants are vulnerable to attack from various different pests, including aphids. Check for damage and infestations.

4. ROUTINE CARE Keep beds weeded until plants are well established, by which time their foliage will suppress weeds. Water regularly, especially during hot or dry spells, and apply a balanced liquid feed, as directed by the manufacturers, to promote strong, leafy growth.

-Water well directing the flow at the base of the plants. On lighter soils, mulch to help retain moisture or lay pieces of cardboard.

5. PROTECTING PLANTS Fit brassica collars around each plant to deter cabbage root fly. At the same time, cover plants with fine netting to protect against cabbage white caterpillars and pigeons. Keep the netting pulled taut and check regularly for holes.

-Cover with fine netting to prevent cabbage white butterflies from laying eggs on your plants. Use canes to hold it clear of the leaves.

6. HARVESTING The plants are ready to harvest from late summer on-wards, once they have fully-formed, leafy heads. To harvest, either cut through the tough stalk with a sharp knife or lift the roots using a fork. Mature plants can be left in the ground for a few weeks but will gradually deteriorate. Trim off the outer, tougher leaves and use only the tender heart. Cut heads can be stored in a fridge for about a week.

-Harvest young cabbages, picking every other one in a row, to allow others space to mature.

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CUCURBITS

Quick-to-grow with generous foliage, cucurbits thrive in warm, moist soils. The huge yellow flowers attract pollinating insects, and regular feeding satisfies the voracious appetite of these plants. Pest attacks are often tolerated by mature plants, and diseases such as powdery mildew manifest only after a respectable harvest has been gathered.

My pumpkins are producing male flowers but no female ones, why is that? This phenomenon often occurs at the beginning of the growing season. It can cause frustration for gardeners because only the female flowers (which have a tiny embryonic fruit-let behind them) bear fruit. Usually, as the season progresses plants develop a balance of female and male flowers. However, excess male blooms can occur if plants are in too much shade, are being fed too much high-nitrogen fertilizer, or are weak and stressed, so these issues should be remedied.

Why are my courgette fruitlets rotting off before they get to a harvest-able size? Fruitlets rotting at the flower end can signal that the plant has set too much fruit, and this triggers the plant to abort some of its crop. Regular harvesting before the courgettes get too large can reduce the problem. Rotting fruitlets may also be caused by incomplete pollination by bees and visiting insects: fertilization often fails in windy or wet weather. If the problem persists, grow courgette ‘Parthenon’ which can set fruit without pollination.

Why has one of my greenhouse cucumber plants wilted and collapsed, despite being full of fruits? Greenhouse cucumbers thrive in warm, humid environments. These growing conditions can, however, encourage fungal rots (especially Fusarium species) to form on the plant’s root system. Perhaps your plant became chilled, or excessively hot – both conditions would cause root stress, making plants especially vulnerable to fungal rots. Once the main stem rots the whole plant can quickly collapse. Deter by ventilating well on hot days, shutting vents on cool nights, and avoiding over-watering. Consider changing your greenhouse border soil if the problem recurs annually.

I’ve been told that my winter squash ‘Crown Prince’ will store well into the spring – what should I do to make this work? ‘Crown Prince’ is a delicious winter squash with excellent keeping qualities. The key to longevity in storage is for fruits to develop an unblemished, well-cured skin. Achieve this by exposing your ripening squashes to sufficient sunlight. Periodically cut off any leaves that shade the fruits during summer. Standing them on a slate or tile can deter skin blemishes. In late autumn (but before the first frosts) cut unblemished fruits from the plant with a short length of stem attached. Keep them somewhere sunny, airy, and frost-free (a heated greenhouse or windowsill is ideal) until needed.

PEST AND DISEASE WATCH

Here are some of the most common pests and diseases affecting cucurbits :

• Slugs and snails can damage plants, especially on moist, warm nights when feeding activity is high. Seedlings are most vulnerable – check for any trace of silvery slime trails. • Aphids can congregate on growing points, sucking sap and, if populations are large, weakening young plants. • Tiny yellow and white flecks on the foliage can be indicative of red spider mite. • Yellowing veins and distorted foliage and fruits suggest a cucumber mosaic virus infection. • A white, dust-like coating over the upper leaf surface indicates powdery mildew attack but it can be tolerated if occurring late in the growing season. • Clouds of tiny white flies appearing when leaves are disturbed signals whitefly infestation.

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PUMPKINS

Mammoth pumpkins take up a lot of space in the garden, but there are plenty of varieties with smaller fruits that are ideal where space is limited – some can even be planted in containers. Pumpkins are reliable and easy to grow. All they need is a good supply of water and fertile soil, and some protection against slugs and snails. Although pumpkins are associated with lantern-carving at Halloween, the fruits have tasty sweet flesh and store well into winter.

1. GETTING STARTED Pumpkins may be sold as plants in spring but they are usually grown from seed, and there are many varieties to choose from. If you want large fruits for carving, pick a suitable variety and thin the fruits to one or two per plant. For edible fruits, choose your variety and let each plant develop four or five fruits each.

-Atlantic Giant is one of the largest fruiting varieties and can be eaten if picked early.

-Jack be Little bears small, brightly colored fruits that are tasty as well as decorative.

-Rouge Vif d’Etampes is an heirloom variety, with large fruits, good for eating or decoration.

-Baby Bear is a compact variety with thin-skinned fruits, each the size of a football.

2. SOWING UNDER COVER Large pumpkins need a long growing season to develop full-size fruits. Start them off under cover in spring, especially in cold areas, and then harden them off and plant outside when the frosts have passed. Part-fill small pots with seed compost, sow one seed per pot, water well, and allow to drain. Place pots in a heated propagator at 20°C (68°F) and keep the compost moist. When seeds germinate, grow seedlings on under cover for a few weeks in a bright spot.

-Sow seed individually 2cm (3⁄4in) deep into 10cm (4in) wide pots and place them in a warm propagator set at 20–25°C (68–77°F).

-Check the seeds daily until they germinate, which takes between one and two weeks. Remove the pots from the propagator and grow them on under cover.

Note : Sow smaller-fruited pumpkins direct into the soil in early summer.

3. SOWING OUTSIDE In early summer, seeds can also be sown directly into the soil. Well before sowing, improve the soil with well-rotted organic matter, such as garden compost, then sow the seeds 3cm (11⁄4in) deep and 1m (3ft) apart. Water them well, and when seedlings start to emerge, cover them with a cloche. Keep the plants well-watered as they grow on.

-Sow outdoor seed in groups of two or three in case any fail to grow. You can then thin to the strongest seedling as they start to develop.

-Carefully transplant stronger spare seedlings if they are needed elsewhere on the bed. Lift them with a trowel and water them well once planted.

4. ROUTINE CARE Pumpkins are hungry plants and will benefit from regular feeding with a liquid general-purpose fertilizer. Young plants need weeding until they establish fully. To keep the fruits clean and off the soil, place a short plank of wood under each one.

-Mulching plants with well-rotted organic matter, such as garden compost, will help retain moisture in summer. It will also feed your plants.

5. TRAINING Most pumpkins produce trailing stems and can be left to ramble over the ground among other plants. Where space is limited, tie the stems to canes set out in a circle and pushed into the soil. Small-fruited varieties can also be trained up sturdy supports.

-Where space is limited, train pumpkin plants vertically, using nets to support the swelling fruit. Tie the stems in as they grow.

6. HARVESTING In mid-autumn your fruits will be ready for harvest. Cut them with a short length of stalk attached to prevent the stem from rotting back into the fruit, and to provide a handy carrying handle. Unless you plan to use them straightaway, dry or “cure” the skins by leaving them in a sunny spot outside for at least a week. If rain is predicted, move them to a bright position under cover. The fruit will store well for months.

-Small pumpkins can be cooked whole; larger fruits should be cut into manageable pieces.

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WINTER SQUASHES

Winter squashes are available in a huge range of shapes and colours, and provide a delicious feast in late autumn and winter, especially when roasted or in soups. Easy to grow, they can be left to trail across the ground and make good use of the space between your other crops. They can also be grown in containers, with the stems trained to make a feature of the decorative fruit. If you have space for storage, the fruits will keep and last well into the winter months.

1. SOWING UNDER COVER Winter squash are tender but can be sown under cover in spring to plant out when any danger of frosts has passed. Fill 10cm (4in) pots with seed compost, water them well, and then leave them to drain. Sow one seed per pot at a depth of 3cm (11⁄4in). Place the pots in a heated propagator set at 20°C (68°F) for a week or two. Once the seedlings emerge, grow them on in a warm, bright position.

-Sow the seeds individually at a depth of 3cm (11⁄4in), cover lightly with soil, and place in a heated propagator for one or two weeks.

-Winter squash seedlings grow quickly but can only be planted out after the last frosts, so don’t sow them too early. Pot them on if necessary.

2. SOWING OUTSIDE Sow seeds direct in late spring. First, prepare the soil by digging in plenty of well-rotted manure or compost, and remove weeds. Then firm and rake level. For an earlier crop, warm the soil first with cloches. Sow seeds in pairs, 3cm (11⁄4in) deep and 1m (3ft) apart, water well, and cover with a cloche. As each group of seedlings emerges, thin them to leave only the strongest plant. Protect plants from slugs and snails.

-Direct-sow seed at the base of a sturdy support if you plan to train your squash plants as climbers. Seed can also be sown beneath tall crops.

-Thin surplus seedlings to leave the strongest. If you have unfilled gaps, transplant spare plants to where they are needed. Water in well.

Note : Placing a tile under large squash helps to prevent them rotting on wet soil.

3. PLANTING OUT Plants sown under cover can be planted out into their final positions in early summer. Before doing so, harden them off to acclimatize them to outdoor conditions. Place them outside during the day for two weeks, bringing them back in each night. Plant out at 1m (3ft) apart and water them in well. Protect young plants from slugs.

-Water the plants well before planting them out to help their roots establish successfully.

-Plant out at the same depth as the plants were in their pots and firm them in gently.

-Water in well and keep plants moist until they are growing well, especially on lighter soils.

4. ROUTINE CARE Plants require plenty of water during the summer months; to make watering easier and get water down to the roots, push a plant pot vertically into the soil beside each plant. Feed plants with a regular application of a general-purpose liquid fertilizer, as directed on the instructions.

-Mulch plants with well-rotted compost to help retain moisture, especially on lighter soils. The mulch will break down, feeding your plants.

5. TRAINING Winter squash are either bushy, or trailing. Bush-types form neat clumps of leaves, whereas trailing plants send out long, winding stems. These can be trained into loops if space is limited, or allowed to ramble among other plants. You can also train smaller-fruited varieties up trellis work or canes.

-Trailing stems can be looped around canes to form circles, or trained up supports. Both methods will contain the plants’ spread in smaller gardens.

6. HARVESTING In mid-autumn the leaves will start to die back and the fruits should be coloring up well. Fruits need to be harvested before the first frosts. Cut them from the plant, leaving a short length of stem attached to act as a handle. Leave them in a warm, dry sunny spot for two weeks to harden the skins – windowsills are ideal. The fruits can then be stored indoors until needed.

-Colorful fruits can be used for temporary seasonal decoration until needed in the kitchen.

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SUMMER SQUASHES

A close relative of courgettes, summer squash are very easy to grow, and some can be trained upwards, making them ideal for smaller plots. They come in a wide selection of shapes and sizes, including scallop-edged “patty pans” and crook-necked, vase-shaped varieties; all are extremely free-fruiting. The fruits are either harvested when small and thin-skinned to eat whole, or can be left to grow large enough to stuff and roast whole.

1. GETTING STARTED Only a few varieties of summer squash are commonly sold as young plants, so they are best raised from seed. The plants crop heavily – two or three will give a good supply of fruit all summer, so don’t grow more than you need. The fruits can be harvested while young to help you to keep on top of summer gluts.

-Patty pan is a type not a variety, and there are yellow, green, and white forms to grow.

-Sunburst can be picked as young fruit or left to grow on. It crops freely if harvested often.

-Tromboncino is best harvested when 30cm (12in) long, but can reach 1m (3ft) if left to grow on.

-Rolet gives a good crop of round, cricket ball-sized fruits, that have sweet-tasting flesh.

2. SOWING SEEDS For an early start, sow seeds under cover into individual pots and place them in a heated propagator set at 200C (68ºF) until they germinate. Once the seedlings emerge, grow them on under cover at 18ºC (64ºF) in a bright spot. After about a fortnight start feeding weekly with liquid fertilizer. Seeds can also be sown directly into the soil in early summer. Sow seeds in pairs, water them in, and cover with a cloche. When seedlings emerge, thin each pair and leave the stronger plant to grow on.

-Sow seed under cover into 10cm (4in) wide pots, 2cm (3⁄4in) deep and cover with compost. Water them in and place the pots in a propagator.

-To sow direct, first prepare a seedbed and sow the seeds 2cm (3⁄4in) deep, 90cm (36in) apart. Position each seed on its side to help prevent it rotting.

Note : Summer squash prefer rich soil, so dig in organic matter before planting.

3. GROWING ON Plants raised under cover should be grown on until the risk of frost has passed, then hardened off before they are planted out. Space them 1–1.5m (3–5ft) apart, and water them in well. To get water to the roots when watering, bury a flower pot next to each plant to act as a funnel. Plants can also be grown one per 50cm (12in) container.

-Harden off seedlings for a few weeks before planting out, placing them outside during the day but bringing them back under cover at night.

-Trailing summer squash varieties can be planted beneath taller crops, such as sweetcorn or tomatoes, or near rows of climbing beans.

4. ROUTINE CARE Summer squashes are vigorous plants, and should be watered well and fed regularly with tomato fertilizer. To help conserve soil moisture, mulch around plants with a thick layer of compost or similar organic material. The mulch will gradually break down and release nutrients to the plants.

-Mulch to help maintain moisture – if fruiting plants are allowed to dry out or are watered irregularly, fruits may be aborted.

5. TRAINING Most varieties are trailing plants and can be left to creep across the soil. To make harvesting easier, gradually remove the surrounding leaves as they grow, to provide access to the fruit. If space is limited, the stems can also be looped into circles on the ground or trained vertically up cane wigwams.

-Train trailing squash stems along the edges of beds or paths so the fruits are easy to pick. This will also free up bed space for other crops.

6. HARVESTING Squashes produce separate male and female flowers on the same plant, but only the female flowers fruit. The flowers wither as soon as they are pollinated and the fruit begins to develop. Young, tender squash will be ready to harvest after four to seven days, depending on the weather. They can be left to grow longer for larger fruit that are ideal for stuffing and roasting.

-Squashes that develop a thick skin before harvesting in summer will keep longer in storage

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COURGETTES AND MARROWS

Courgettes are notoriously productive – just two or three plants are all you need to be self-sufficient in them throughout the summer. They require a rich soil but are extremely easy to grow either directly in the ground or in containers. There are many varieties to choose from; their green or yellow fruits can either be round or elongated. Left to mature, your courgettes will develop into marrows, ideal for autumn stews and bakes.

1. GETTING STARTED Courgettes are very easy to raise from seed, which is the best choice if you want to grow a particular variety. Alternatively, young plants are widely available to buy during spring. Courgettes crop very quickly, so consider yellow-fruited varieties as the fruits are much easier to spot amongst the dense foliage.

-Parthenon doesn’t require pollination, so sets early and reliably even in poor conditions.

-Defender is resistant to cucumber mosaic virus and crops very heavily.

-Jemmer produces attractive yellow fruits that stand out clearly among the dense leaves.

-Shooting Star is a golden-skinned, climbing variety suited to smaller spaces.

2. SOWING SEEDS Courgettes are tender plants, and it is useful to sow seeds under cover to give them a head start after the frosts pass. Sow seed singly in pots, 2.5cm (1in) deep, and place them in a heated propagator set at 200C (680F) until germinated. Seed can also be sown directly outside in early summer, and provide a useful second flush of crops to follow indoor-raised plants. Choose a sunny, sheltered site, and dig in some organic matter before sowing.

-Sow seeds into 10cm (4in) wide pots part-filled with seed or multi-purpose compost. Cover the seeds lightly with more compost and water them in.

-Direct sow seeds in pairs 3cm (11⁄4in) deep, 90cm (36in) apart, in early summer. Water well and cover them with mini cloches. When seedlings are large enough to handle, thin each pair to one seedling.

3. GROWING ON Grow the plants on under cover at a temperature of 18ºC (64ºF). Keep them well watered and begin feeding them with a balanced liquid fertilizer after two weeks. Plants will grow quickly and may need potting on if roots appear at the base of the pots. Harden them off and plant out in beds, or one plant per 50cm (12in) pot.

-Seedlings sown early may need to be potted on if they outgrow their pots when it is still too early to plant them out.

-Plants sown in later spring can be hardened off during the daytime as soon as the risk of frost has passed.

-After planting out your hardened-off plants, you can cover them with cloches to help them establish more quickly.

4. WATERING Courgettes are quick growing and fruiting, and should be kept well-watered throughout summer. To make this easier, create a well around individual plants for water to collect in, or plunge a funnel (an upturned bottle with the base cut off works well) next to each plant for direct watering.

-Courgettes plants need regular watering while they are developing to produce a broad canopy of leaves and a steady supply of fruit.

5. ROUTINE CARE Young plants need weeding until established when their dense canopy of leaves will smother other competing plants. Most courgettes form a large rosette of leaves but some newer varieties have a trailing habit and can be trained up canes. On older plants, regularly remove any yellowing leaves.

-Powdery mildew can develop on the foliage and weaken plants. Remove heavily affected leaves and water more regularly.

6. HARVESTING Using a sharp knife, harvest traditional courgettes when they measure between 8–15cm (3–6in) long; round-fruited varieties should be picked when 7–12cm (3–5in) in diameter. Check over the plants daily as the fruit develop very quickly in summer. Alternatively, leave the fruits on one or two plants to develop fully. These plants will then give a smaller crop of thick-skinned marrows to harvest in late summer.

-Keep harvesting young fruits – if they are allowed to grow on, they will become marrows but fewer fruit will be produced as a result.

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CUCUMBERS

These summer salad stalwarts are easy to grow in any garden, and although some varieties require a greenhouse to crop well, “ridge” varieties are perfectly happy outside. These can be left to sprawl over the ground, or where space is limited, they can be trained up stout canes or trellises, making good use of vertical surfaces. Small-fruited “snacking” cucumbers are particularly productive and convenient, with fruit just large enough for a lunch box.

1. GETTING STARTED Cucumbers can be raised from seed, which is ideal if you want a large crop. They can also be bought as seedlings in spring, which may be a better choice if you only want a few plants. Cucumbers are productive, and depending on the variety, just two or three plants will be enough for most families all summer.

-Mini Munch is a heavycropping, “snackbox” variety. Fruits are harvested small.

-Passandra grows indoors and gives a large crop of small, single-serving fruits.

-Marketmore is reliable with good disease resistance and is suited to being grown outside.

-Crystal Apple bears a good crop of small, round, juicy fruits. It is easy to grow outside.

2. SOWING SEEDS Cucumber seeds should be started off under cover because plants are very sensitive to the cold and need a long growing season to fruit well. Hybrid seeds may be more expensive but they result in more vigorous, productive plants, so are worth the extra expense. Fill 10cm (4in) diameter pots with seed compost, water well and allow to drain. Sow one seed per pot, 2cm (3⁄4in) deep, water them lightly, and put them in a heated propagator to germinate.

-Cucumber seed can be expensive. Sow one seed per pot and keep them warm, 22-25°C (72–77°F), to encourage germination.

-Check the seed regularly until they germinate, which should take a week or two. Remove them from the propagator and grow them on indoors.

Note : Cucumbers require constantly high temperatures, so don’t sow too early.

3. PLANTING OUT Once they are large enough, plant cucumbers out in early summer – enrich the soil thoroughly in advance. Outdoor “ridge” varieties can be planted directly into the soil in a sunny spot and left to trail across the surface, or can be trained up canes. Greenhouse-types can be planted one per 30cm (12in) pot.

-Outdoor varieties should be hardened off for a few weeks before planting to acclimatize them to outdoor conditions.

-Insert canes to train plants upwards where space is limited. This also keeps the fruit clean and away from crawling pests.

-Containers are ideal for greenhouse crops but they can also be used outside. Allow the soil to warm up before planting.

4. POLLINATION Outdoor varieties have both male and female flowers; the latter must be pollinated to set fruit. Many modern greenhouse varieties are “all female” and must not be pollinated because they then produce bitter-tasting fruits. Grow these well away from varieties that produce male flowers.

-Female flowers have an embryonic fruit behind the petals. These must be pollinated unless the variety is “all female”. Check before you buy.

5. ROUTINE CARE Keep plants well watered, and apply tomato fertilizer regularly, as directed. Indoor plants thrive in high humidity, which you can achieve by watering the ground around the plants. This also helps to deter red spider mite and powdery mildew, which are both common.

-Swelling cucumbers become heavy, especially on mature plants with several fruits, so make sure the stems are attached to their supports.

6. HARVESTING As soon as individual fruits are large enough, cut them from the plants using secateurs. Cucumbers grow quickly and their quality declines if they are left too long on the plant. To enjoy them at their best, check plants daily and harvest them as soon as they are ready. The fruit can be stored in the fridge until needed. If you expect a glut, very young fruits can be harvested as gherkins and used for pickling.

-Some cucumbers are smooth-skinned, others have small prickles but both types taste just as good as each other.

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PODDED CROPS

Hardier peas and broad beans thrive in autumn and spring, and as soon as conditions warm up, French and runner beans join them. Vigorous climbers make use of vertical space, and for smaller gardens compact varieties are available. Feed established plants to produce generous yields, and pick regularly, even daily in high summer, to encourage more pods to form.

My broad bean flowers are being eaten by bees – what can I do? You’re witnessing “robbing” on your broad beans, where short-tongued bumblebee species (e.g. buffand white-tailed) create a hole at the flower’s base to reach the nectaries more easily. This method of nectar gathering bypasses the anthers so that the flower isn’t pollinated. Don’t worry – there should be enough long-tongued bees pollinating your broad bean flowers for sufficient pods to set.

After I planted out my pea seedlings, they disappeared almost overnight – what happened to them? Pea seedlings are as delicious as podded peas, so it’s likely that slugs, mice, or birds gorged on your transplants. Slugs leave silvery slime trails on remaining seedlings and the surrounding soil – a scattering of organic pellets will deter them in future. If you plant out larger, more robust plants, they will be less vulnerable. Mice nip off seedlings at their base with a clean cut; setting humane traps will help to catch them (sultanas and chocolate are good baits). Birds such as pigeons can quickly shred a row of peas – you may still see tattered foliage if these were the culprits. Netting the plants will thwart them.

After giving a good initial harvest, my peas seem to have stopped cropping. Why? Peas, like many other podded plants, will regulate the amount of flowers they develop. If plants are large and healthy they’ll set generous numbers of pods. Pick these before they mature because harvesting peas while they’re young gives you the most tender crop and will encourage your plants to produce more flowers. Seeds that are allowed to mature on the plant demand excess resources and trigger the plant to cease flowering.

The beans that I see on allotments are often large plants. Is it possible to grow them in containers on my patio? While climbing beans can become sizeable plants, there are plenty of dwarf and compact varieties. For dwarf runner beans that grow to only 50cm (20in) tall, look for varieties such as ‘Millionaire’ and ‘Hestia’. ‘The Sutton’ and ‘Robin Hood’ are compact broad beans that only grow 40–50cm (16–20in) tall. The numerous varieties of dwarf French beans include purple-podded ‘Amethyst’, yellow-podded ‘Golddukat’, and green-podded ‘Safari’. Finally, ‘Little Marvel’ and ‘Half Pint’ are excellent dwarf varieties of peas.

PEST AND DISEASE WATCH

Once established, podded crops can tolerate a degree of damage, but watch out for the following :

• Slugs can devour seedlings at the sowing and transplanting stage. • Seedlings may collapse or damp off if overwatered and/or chilled. • Watch young growing tips in case they become smothered by blackfly (aphid) colonies. • If you find maggots within pea pods, sow early next time. • Small, semi-circular notches cut around the edge of pea and broad bean leaves is indicative of pea and bean weevil. • Powdery mildew affects peas – look for white coating on the leaves and try resistant varieties. • Climbing beans can be vulnerable to leaf scorch if they are grown on windy sites. • Rust can be troublesome on broad and runner beans, as can chocolate spot on broad beans, although mature plants will still crop.

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BROAD BEANS

These small, tender beans are a must-grow crop because shop-bought pods just don’t compare to those picked fresh from the plant. Autumn sowings are one of the first vegetables to harvest in spring, which makes them a good choice for smaller plots as they can soon be replaced with other summer crops. If space is limited, they can also be grown in containers. As well as the mature beans, the young tips and pods are also edible, so make the most of their versatility.

1. GETTING STARTED Broad beans are usually raised from seed, although you can also buy young plants in spring. They can be grown in most soil types, although those sown directly outside in autumn need good drainage or cloche protection to prevent them rotting off in the cold and wet. Check the packets for varieties suitable for autumn sowing.

-The Sutton can be sown in autumn or spring, and crops early on sturdy dwarf plants.

-Super Aquadulce gives an early crop of flavorsome beans Sow autumn or spring.

-Stereo is best sown in spring and can be picked as whole young pods or as mature beans.

-De Monica is one of the earliest broad bean varieties to mature from spring sowings.

3. SOWING OUTSIDE Broad beans can be sown directly into the soil during autumn or early spring. Fork the soil over first, add compost or well-rotted manure, and either sow into drills or into a grid pattern of individual holes, 25cm (10in) apart.

-Broad beans absorb nitrogen from the air and fix it in the soil. They don’t require heavy feeding.

-Sow the seed 5cm (2in) deep directly into beds or pots. Cover with soil, firm gently, and water in well.

4. PLANTING OUT When indoor-sown plants are showing strong growth, harden them off for a week or two to acclimatize them to outdoor temperatures. Dig over the site thoroughly, and plant them out 25cm (10in) apart each way. If you are planting them in blocks, additional support is not usually necessary, except on more exposed sites.

-Harden off plants before planting them out in autumn or spring. Stand them outside in the day, bringing them in at night.

-Seedlings in biodegradable “ “tubes” can be planted as they are; the roots will penetrate and the tube will rot away.

-Protect seedlings with fleece if hard frosts are due straight after planting. Direct-sown plants don’t require protection.

5. ROUTINE CARE Broad beans require little care once they are growing strongly, and need only watering in summer when plants are flowering. Plants should be kept well weeded until they establish. Broad beans in rows may need support from strings staked on each side of the row.

-Young plants should be well-watered at first but soon develop a deep tap root. On lighter soils, mulch plants with compost to retain moisture.

6. PINCHING OUT When the first flowers begin to set pods, pinch out the soft growing tip of each plant. This causes the plants to focus on developing pods rather than leafy growth, and also deters blackfly, which feed on the shoots during late spring and summer.

-Pinching out tips encourages the bean pods to develop, and also provides an early crop of tasty leaves, which are delicious when steamed.

7. HARVESTING Crops sown in autumn are ready to harvest in late spring. Pods are best harvested before the developing beans create visible swellings in the pods. All broad beans are best picked while young, so pick and freeze any that you can’t use straightaway. After harvesting, you can cut the plants to the ground but leave the roots in the soil to break down. They will release their stored nitrogen for the next crop to use.

-Broad beans are best eaten fresh but will keep well in their pods in the fridge for a few days.

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FRENCH BEANS

Otherwise known as filet or snap beans, French beans are an easy crop for beginners and can be harvested for their plump pods or for the beans themselves. They are a good choice for smaller plots, with climbing varieties that can be trained up space-saving rows of wigwams and trellises, and bushy dwarf varieties that can be grown in containers. If you have a warm greenhouse you can even grow a batch of French beans under cover for an extra-early spring crop.

1. SOWING OUTSIDE The simplest way to grow French beans is to sow seed in the soil in late spring. Prepare the site by digging in well-rotted organic matter, such as garden compost (this can also be done in the autumn), and remove weeds. Firm the soil and rake it level. Insert canes, 25cm (10in) apart, where climbing plants are to grow, and sow two seeds, 5cm (2in) deep, at the base of each one. Thin the seedlings to one per cane.

-French beans are hungry plants and need moist soil, rich in organic matter to crop well.

-Sow seed directly once the soil has warmed up in spring. Use cloches to speed up this process.

2. SOWING UNDER COVER For an early start in cooler areas, sow under cover. Sow seed 3cm (11⁄4in) deep, two per pot or “growing tube” filled with seed compost. Keep them moist and germination will take about one week at 15–18°C (59–64°F).

-Paper “growing tubes” are easy to make and ideal for accommodating the deep roots of bean plants.

-Seedlings grow quickly so don’t sow them too early unless you plan to grow them under cover.

3. GROWING ON Grow the seedlings on under cover in a bright position until the risk of frost has passed. As they grow, thin plants sown in pots to leave the strongest seedling per pot. Once the plants reach 8cm (3in) tall, harden them off by standing them outside during the day and bringing them in at night. Any seedlings sown directly outside should be kept well watered and protected from slugs. Use bottle cloches to encourage strong growth.

-Seedlings become tangled if they are not thinned early. The roots will also be hard to separate.

4. PLANTING OUT For climbing French beans, plant out indoor-raised seedlings at the base of their canes, water them in well, and gently twine the main stem around its cane. If space is limited, it is easier to insert the canes after planting. Dwarf beans can also be planted in large pots and troughs (allowing space of at least 25cm (10in) between plants).

-Carefully ease pot-raised beans from their pots. Plants raised in biodegradable tubes are planted in their tubes, which will quickly rot away.

-Plant at the same depth as the plants were in their pots, firm gently and water well. Twine the young stem around the cane after planting.

5. PROVIDING SUPPORT Climbing beans are self-clinging once established and will wrap themselves around their supports, although new growth and the occasional wayward stem may need tying in. Dwarf varieties have a bushy habit and do not require additional support or tying in.

-Use canes at least 2.5m (8ft) tall for climbing beans, pushing them 30cm (12in) into the soil. Use soft string, such as jute, to attach the plants.

6. ROUTINE CARE Once the plants start to flower, keep them well watered and feed them regularly with a balanced liquid fertilizer. Dry spells may cause the flowers and young beans to drop. Protect young plants from slug and snail damage with a light scattering of organic pellets.

-Weeds compete for water and slow down growth, so keep them under control. Remove weeds between plants by hand or hoe carefully.

7. HARVESTING Tender young pods can be picked as soon as they are large enough. Check plants every few days to harvest them at their best; picking often also encourages a larger crop. If you want to grow and keep some pods for seeds, leave them on the plant until fully mature.

-Pinch off the young pods before they become old and tough using your fingers.

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RUNNER BEANS

One of the most productive crops you can grow, runner beans will supply a ready harvest of tender pods for most of the summer; the more you pick, the more will grow. Most runner beans are climbing plants and take up little bed space, making them a good choice for smaller plots and well-suited to vertical growing spaces on patios and balconies. The easiest way to grow them is up a wigwam of canes, which can easily be incorporated into flowering borders.

1. GETTING STARTED You can grow your own plants from seed, sowing them under cover or directly outside. Runner beans are also sold as plants in spring, which is ideal if you only want a few. As well as climbing varieties, there are also dwarf bush-types that are ideal for growing in patio containers. Position them in a sunny sheltered site.

-Moonlight is a reliable, easy-to-grow, self-pollinating variety that has white flowers.

-White lady has white flowers that are less attractive to birds, which may eat them.

-Lady Di produces long, string-less pods during summer. It is a reliable variety for beginners.

-Firestorm is a self-pollinating variety that produces long, string-less pods.

2. SOWING OUTSIDE Runner beans are tender plants and should only be sown outside once the risk of frost has passed. Before sowing, prepare the soil well by digging a trench or large circle (for wigwams) in spring, and filling it with well-rotted organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure. Insert canes where the plants are to grow, and sow one or two seeds 5cm (2in) deep at the base of each one. Cover the seeds with soil, firm in gently and water well. The seeds can take a couple of weeks to germinate, after which they should be thinned to the one healthy plant per cane. Protect the seedlings from slugs with a light sprinkling of organic pellets.

-Prepare the soil by digging in well-rotted organic matter before sowing. Runner beans do best in rich, moist soil.

-Insert canes either in two rows to join at the top, which can then be linked as a row, or in circles of four or five to create wigwams.

-Wait until the soil is warm enough before sowing directly. It needs to be at least 12°C (54°F) for them to germinate.

3. SOWING INSIDE In cooler areas, start seeds off under cover – seed will germinate earlier and more reliably. Sow the seeds individually into pots or “growing tubes” filled with seed compost and water them well. Grow them on under cover in a bright position for a few weeks. Plant out once all risk of frost has passed. Keep them well watered.

-Sow the seeds 5cm (2in) deep and water well. It’s worth sowing more than you need in case some fail to come up.

-Harden off the seedlings by standing them outside during the day and bringing them in at night for about two weeks.

-Plant out seedlings at the base of your canes, one per support. Water the plants in well and twist the stem up the cane.

4. MULCHING Runner beans are hungry and thirsty plants. To help conserve moisture and to feed your crop, mulch the plants in summer with well-rotted organic matter, such as garden compost. This is particularly valuable for container-grown crops.

-Mulch plants with plenty of well-rotted manure or garden compost. This will help to keep the root area moist and encourage the best crop.

5. ROUTINE CARE Plants must be kept well watered once the flowers appear for the beans to set; dry spells can cause the flowers or beans to wither and fall. Pinch out the growing tips of the bean plants when the stems reach the top of the canes to promote cropping side-shoots.

6. HARVESTING Pick the pods as soon as they are large enough. Check plants every two or three days – regular picking promotes a prolonged harvest. Beans become tough if left to grow for too long, so pick them young and tender and freeze any surpluses, or make runner bean chutney.

-To save your own seed, leave a few pods to develop fully on the plants at the end of summer. Dry and save them to sow next year.