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goodlawdmaude · 3 years

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Colombia and Peru 2019

3/7 SAN FRANCISCO --> BOGOTA

3/7-3/8

J and I ubered from ASF to airport, got through security, grabbed a drink at the terminal, then waited at our gate to board. Alarmingly, we heard our names over the intercom, but we just had to show our passports at the desk - no problem. A flight attendant on our flight got sick, so the flight needed 9 volunteers to get off the plane. This delayed us, but we eventually got off the ground. Slept some on the flight, had to go through customs in Mexico City, then through security to our gate. It was around 6am and light outside. Jarod resolved to start the day, but I wanted to sleep more. I slept for 30 great minutes on the flight, then watched Bohemian Rhapsody. The third person in our aisle was sketchy: late, on the phone (free WhatsApp), and importing a lot (per his customs form). We got through customs pretty quickly, then grabbed a taxi and made it to our hostel around 3pm. We rested briefly, then went out for lunch—arepas, chaufa arroz con pollo, and a special combo with seafood and rice in a divine yellow sauce. Jarod was starting to feel the full effect of his cold, but we went for a brief walk anyway through the center of town and the Museo de Botero. Lots of street vendors with various crafts and snacks, some alpacas, police with dogs with muzzles, cobblestone roads, sanitation workers in blue jumpsuits, green mountains in the background. While driving, we saw stark constrasts between shoddy roadside structures and the grand skyscrapers just behind them. Roads were paved and nice. We walked back, buying water at a nearby market, then took naps, showered, and went to sleep very early (8pm). On two instances, we were awoken by rowdiness in the hostel. Overall, slept 11(!!) hours.

3/9 BOGOTA-->MEDELLIN

3/9 Bogota-->Medellin

After our long sleep, we ate breakfast (eggs, fruit, bread, homemade jam, pancakes, lots of fruit) at the hostel, then asked reception to call a taxi for us. We made it to the airport and ultimately made it to the gate smoothly (despite one snafu: struggling to follow arrows to find el bano). Flight was super quick, it was hot when we landed, and we grabbed a taxi from a line outside. The ride to El Poblado was pretty green and undeveloped. It reminded me of driving in Costa Rica (narrow, windy roads), but the roads were paved and in better shape. We tried to drop our bags at the airbnb but couldn’t. We grabbed lunch at El Florez a couple doors down—very yummy healthy food. We tried the airbnb again to no avail. We walked around to take in the town. It was very green, hot and trendy - peppered with new-looking bars, restaurants, and shops. Dying of heat, we stopped for lemonades at a restaurant by the airbnb then went to get our key. We got in and hung for a bit--the airbnb was plenty spacious but nothing super fancy. We grabbed a drink at El Jenun(??)--J built his own gin and tonic while i had a fancy cocktail. We walked for a while--through some slightly seedier roads--to a gypsy/fox-themed pizza place for dinner. Grabbed a beer at Medellin beer company and J accidentally ordered a pitcher. Waitresses were scantily clad and hot; there was an old weird white dude who knew them all far too well. We came home, showered, and went to bed around 11pm.

3/10

After sleeping in until 9am, I straightened my hair (big deal) and then we went to El Pergamino for coffee and breakfast. I had a milky delicious chai latte and eggs with tomato and pesto roasted in a little crepe brûlée pan. The coffee shop was super trendy and cute. From there we walked to the Poblado Metro station and found our way onto the metro. It was very hot and pretty crowded but a really nice system. We got off to transfer to a gondola which took us over a poorer area--tin roofs, lots of graffiti, kids and dogs running everywhere. Then we got on a second gondola which took us over a final stretch of town and over a few miles of forest. The view was unbelievable. We were squished in with a Spanish family of 6 who were talking about how hot it was here and elsewhere. We got off and started exploring El Parque Arvi. It took us a while to realize we couldn’t hike the trails without a guide, and we couldn’t get a guide without booking online. We walked around and down the road where there were lots of street vendors and a couple restaurants. We got overpriced mangos. We headed back and went to grab lunch before seeing the botanical garden. There was mostly fast food. We got two empanadas to go and sat by the main area of vendors and performers in front of the garden. We went in, admires the flora, saw some iguanas, then headed out. We intended to walk to Cerro el Volador, but then the area we were walking through got a little sketchy and we turned around. We went to Explora Park--walked through the aquarium, reptile exhibits, and a room dedicated to the mind. By the time we were ready to leave, it was pouring. We ran to a taxi, had some confusion with the address, but made it back. We rebounded out for dinner (kebab house - mediocre) nearby, then got dessert across the street and wine and waters at exxito

3/11

Woke up *early* 720 to get ready for our free walking tour through Real City Tours. Jarod made breakfast (scrambled eggs and an arepa) while I got dressed. We left a few minutes later than hoped, but hustled down Calle 10 to the poblado metro station and made it with time to spare to meet our guide. He wore a hat and a red shirt and directed our flock of 23 gringo ducklings onto the metro (which Jarod and I had already mastered the previous day), and we took it three stops north to Alpujarra. We got off, regrouped, and headed off to start the tour. It began with a roughly 20min history of Medellin. Julio told us how a big alcohol tax led the entrepreneurial locals to find smuggling routes to bring it into Colombia and how coffee grew well in its fertile soil and was a major export that bolstered the economy. He talked about the rise of cocaine and Pablo Escobar--how he and those over 30 remembered the terror and the violence and danger, but that younger people thought he was good because he “gave houses to poor people.” He talked about how the metro system showed the people that things could be better, and Medellin started its resurrection. We saw the old train station, the main government offices, the plaza of light (which used to be a crime hotspot but is now beautiful, adjacent to a library and the center of education). We walked through El Hueco, taking in the vendors and street scene to a church, empanada (with orange juice), and the Botero museum and plaza. We learned of the Belgian architect who had left his project because of all the shit-talking of the local people; the Paisas said they would finish it themselves... and did so very abruptly without following his complex blueprints. At this point, 4 members of our tour got lost. We walked to the metro stop from whose stairway a grenade had been tossed into a crowd; Julio explained Colombians’ short term memory as a necessity of resilience--and that one grenade wasn’t so bad compared to the volcano that killed 20k the next day. We walked down Junin street (a popular date night spot) and to a plaza where Botero has two bird statues- one that was partially destroyed by dynamite detonated during a concert; the other new to represent triumphing over that evil. There were cool murals of African American faces--allegedly the first freed slave in Colombia who ran away and beat up everyone that came to catch him. This plaza--especially the birds--was really powerful. A strong symbol of all that Medellin went through and rose above. After the tour, we grabbed lunch in the palace in El Hueco (creamed corn soup, salad, pork, rice and juice for roughly $5). We took the metro home and did a Nike workout and I thought I would die. We showered, hung out, then went to El Chagra for a 6-course tasting menu (we actually went for a drink, but were surprised by and obligated to do the tasting). All the dishes were focused on Amazon themes and resources- specifically the giant fish, Arapaima. The first course was a smoking drink that tasted spicy and cinnamony--a bit like fireball. The second was a delicious soup that was creamy and cheesy with yucca crumbs. The third was a potato/fish ball eaten with our hands and dipped in a spicy fruit sauce. The fourth was fish and chaufa rice. The fifth was sausage with fruit preserves and cherry tomato. The sixth was dessert--a brownie-like thing and a fruity ice cream. The whole meal ran 300COP (with cocktails which had a dazzling presentation of liquid smoke and a sandbox.. and tip). Before the final course, a man dressed as an indigenous Amazonian came to our table chanting and we didn’t know what to do. He spoke some dialect and then Spanish and offered us to use his pastes to paint on ourselves. We respectfully declined and he moved on. We went to a restaurant down the street for a drink. Jarod got a shot of gin *sin huelo* loll. The restaurant was upscale with several birthdays happening. They gave us hand towels which they made expand amazingly by pouring hot water on them. We went home to bed.

3/12 MEDELLIN-->LIMA

3/12

We woke up around 730 and did a Nike work out at home. Jarod made breakfast of eggs and arepas, then our taxi came and took us to the airport. When we got there, we couldn’t check in at the kiosk--it said we were on standby. We waited in line and the woman seemed to have some issues, but eventually gave us our boarding passes. We got through security, grabbed El Pergamino coffee/chai, and waited at the gate. Jarod got us sandwiches, fruit, and a chocolate donut thing to eat. We were sitting apart during the 3h flight :(. I read the whole time. We were fed on the airplane and I ate the meal despite being full. We got through customs easily and got a taxi to our airbnb in Miraflores (45min away... And during rush hr). We got keys from our concierge and went out for dinner. We had to wait a bit, but the food was delicious. Jarod are a risotto in squids ink with seafood. I had a pumpkin soup with shrimp, corn, and yucca. I was so full afterward and felt kinda sick but not too bad. Being in Miraflores felt like being in Santa Monica--it was an upscale beachside community with a nice mall. We went to bed HOT and I woke up once with an upset stomach, though it wasn’t too bad.

3/13

7 YEARS!! We set alarms around 730am but didn’t get out of bed until 830 or so. We headed out for a work out- running through several beautiful green parks on the coastline, then plopping in the shade for a circuit. After the workout, we went to a beachside cafe and ordered a coffee and a nutella/banana crepe to share. We stopped at home, rinsed my sunscreeny body, then headed to the mall, Larcomar. We popped into a cafe for parfaits and quiche, then went to the bike rental stand upstairs and got two bikes for one hour. After we paid but before we left, the bike attendant crashed/fell off his bike nearby. The irony was overwhelming. We biked along the beautiful coast, to the Bridge of Sighs, then back up a city street of Barranco. The Barranco main square was beautiful, with statues and beautiful plants peppered throughout the plaza. We rode back, returned our bikes to the attendant who was squirting Purell on his scraped knee, and went home. We did laundry, showered, and got ready for our walking food tour. (Snacked on plaintain chips and beers from the market downstairs while we waited.) A driver with an unexplained passenger picked us up around 520pm. He was very kind and gave us two (hot) bottles of water. We drove through traffic into the historical center, where we met our guide Ximena. We walked to a churro place that had a long line, Ximena scurried to the front, then returned with two churros--one with caramel (apparently an ancient sweet in Lima) or a sweet cream. They were scalding hot. We took them to a nearby monastery, with a gated plaza full of pigeons. Ximena told us that the plaza used to be a common place to sell goods that the pigeons and vultures were brought by the Spanish, and that it was still an important place of worship although only 20ish ppl were a part of the monastery (friars?). We went inside and saw into catacombs full of skulls and big bones. There were no cemeteries, so if one had the money, one would pay to be buried in that sacred space. From there, we went to the center of literature (which used to be a big train station, but now only one train goes and it runs maybe 2x/month). Across the street was the oldest bar in Lima. We went in and ate ham sandwiches with onion (pan con chicharron con sarza) and purple juice (chicha morrada - corn juice with cloves and cinnamon). From there we walked to the main plaza. Xime told us about the history of the buildings--the bell towers of the old church had been destroyed by earthquakes and rebuilt... the (some politician’s) mansion had been burned down (by ppl who wanted to scare him, but accidentally destroyed it) and rebuilt. It was a beautiful square full of light and life. From there, we walked to a nearby coffee shop where we talked with the brewer of Peru Uno, Oliver. He let us taste two of his beers--a Belgian trippel and an homage to Peru with chamomile and other local herbs/spices. With the beer we had fried bites called tequenos. Oliver was half Peruvian and have Belgian and very focused on sustainable business practices. He was super friendly and cool. From there, we walked a way to find a stop full of people--vendors with their carts as well as big mats on the ground for gambling and big circles around storytellers or dancers. We are mazamorra morada with rice pudding and another sweet rice that was brown from the sweetener. We then had the healing herbal drink emoliente and anticuchos. At each vendor, xime explained the prep in depth, asking the vendor details in Spanish then relaying the answers to us in English. From there we walked to an old bar for “supte artists” where we had papas a la huancaina, yucca rellena (my fave), and chilcano de pisco. People around us were getting TURNT--an old asian man could barely walk, a guy and girl had 8 beers (large) between them, 3 men had 14, and a table of three had a whole fifth of pisco (45% alcohol). Quite full, we struggled through our food. I finished my share, but J did not finish his! We then met our ride (after Xima first approached the wrong car), dropped Xime off, and made it home. During the tour, Xime said the most protested issue in Peru was gender ideology. We went to bed around 11.

3/14

We woke up around 730. I was feeling sicker than I had, but we set off for a workout anyway. We ran for 20min and did a 30min Nike training. We were dripping with sweat. We then headed down our street for breakfast. Jarod’s came with papaya juice and coffee and he got a water--so much liquid to go with his double decker grilled cheese (basically lol). We walked to Kennedy Park which was beautiful with lots of flowers and cats. We went to a supermarket nearby and bought waters, nuts, plaintain chips, and yogurt. We walked back to our place and chilled for a while. We snacked on yogurt and plantain chips during the afternoon, showered, took a nap, and enjoyed the beautiful patio of our airbnb. We watched a little bit of Coach Carter hehe. Then around 6 we set off for dinner at the ancient ruins Huelca Pucllana. It was a long walk during rush hour, but we made it (slightly sweaty) and were seated immediately (in the room not immediately adjacent to the ruins). We got Topeka? Appetizer—4 from the menu for two people--some delicious bread, and our meals (salmon and risotto for me; tuna and veggies and rice for J). We had pisco sours which were strong and delicious. We admired the ruins for a few minutes before walking back down a central strip of park-like walkway. We made it to park Kennedy and stopped for picarones-fried pumpkin and sweet potato dough. I thought we would get one donut, but we got 6, drizzled in syrup. We carried these home, smacked on a few, and packed up. We went to bed by 10pm in prep for our early travel day the next morning.

3/15 LIMA-->CUSCO

3/15

We woke up around 430 and started getting ready. We snacked on leftover picarone and banana, then went to head downstairs at 515. We were stopped by the man next door (Gerard?) who said he owned the building and worked at Cheesecake Factory in gheridelli square in SF and owned a house in Oakland. We talked for a few minutes and gave him the key (a relief to me; I was worried the doorman might not be there for a hand off). The doorman was there and called a taxi for us--though it took a while, our driver spoke some English and warned us (in spanish) about being robbed at gunpoint in Cusco. I slept during some of the ride and was very groggy when we arrived. We got through security and onto our plane smoothly. I slept against the window the entire flight, but felt super weird--and anxious about altitude sickness--when we arrived. We got off and found our way to a crowd of desperate taxi drivers, all in our face asking if we wanted to ride with them. We said no gracias to them all, then realized we did need one. Jarod was haggling with one guy for a 15s ride but he wouldn’t budge; another driver jumped in and said he would take us for 15s. We rode through more modern Cusco into the more ancient part where we were staying. We arrived at our hostel around 10 and sipped coca tea in the lobby while they prepared our room for us. (Very early but convenient!) our room was beautiful and spacious Jarod lay on the alpaca blanket at the foot of our king bed so as not to get it dirty. We hung for a bit, then went down the street for lunch, back home for the bathroom, then out again to the main plaza. A very friendly man outside a different restaurant said “ah hello guys, we have been waiting for you come on in.” We told him we had already eaten and pressed onward, making our way through people pushing massages, trinkets, and art prints at us. The main plaza was beautiful. Green and surrounded by old churches and hills. We went around the shops at the edge--with lots of aggressive vendors and high end alpaca clothing shops. We stopped to buy sunglasses, then went to the Inka museum. We learned about the pre-inkan people who used basic tools and made basic ceramics and relied heavily on llamas and alpacas. The Incas themselves didn’t develop until ~1100 AD (news to me). They too made lots of ceramics and basic tools as well as little sculptures of animals and foods to sacrifice to the gods. The section on Spanish conquest was unclear because all the signs were in Spanish. It seems they put into power lots of Incan leaders who were pro-Spain and then screwed them over. When we were finishing up, it started pouring rain. We waited briefly for it to let up, then hurried home in the rain. We were struggling to breathe pretty often (>11k feet). At home, we got snuggly and took a nap. We found a dinner spot and went there around 5pm lol. Jarod ate alpaca for the first time. The place was empty and the chef was very sweet and cute and fed us aguaymanto which were delicious. The food was really excellent. We did have some comedy with the light above us--she turned it off to set the mood, then a young girl Came in later and turned it on above us without saying anything... we turned it back off, then the chef asked if we wanted it or not. On the way out, she asked for a tripadvisor review which i will happily write. We went to scope out prices of (fake) alpaca products and desserts. We went to a few stores and saw small “alpaca” blankets ranging from 40s--35s. We will go back to buy one or two before we leave. We bought a brownie and slice of chocolate cake nearby, then took it back to our room to feast on in our king bed. We watched some Simpsons in spanish, then read for a while. We went to go to sleep around 10, but I couldn’t sleep. Felt like I didn’t sleep all night--was up thinking. Maybe too much coca tea (inulin is stimulatory).

3/16

We woke to our alarms around 630, but didn’t get out of bed cuz I felt like I hadn’t slept. Finally got up around 9 and got breakfast at our hotel, which was delicious-especially the cornbread. We chilled in our room and prepped for the day, then ventured out. First, we went to San Pedro market. The streets outside were overflowing with vendors selling hard boiled quail eggs and slices of various fruits. Inside the main market place was literally everything. There was a hot food area, a line of juice vendors, butchers bakers, herb-sellers, woven goods vendors, and more. On the far side, we walked down a street lined with shops selling whole chickens (their naked bodies and weird feet displayed prominently). We then found a second, less touristy market place with more hot food, some dye stands, and even a haircut shop. We walked back and stopped for tamales, but didn’t have small enough bills so the woman sent us away. We found our way back to the plaza des armes and sat down for lunch--Jarod got pizza and I got chicken. From there, we started walking (steeply up) to Sacsayhuaman. We found a nice church with a fabulous viewpoint, then continued along the road to the main gate. There was a guard who said the ticket office was closed and we had to buy tickets in the plaza des armes. We were not motivated enough to walk there and back (still constantly out of breath from the altitude), and it was starting to sprinkle, so we headed home. We hung around home until we had to go to our pre-trek meeting. There were two people missing at the start--who came in 20minutes late absolutely breathless. The guide went over the plan for the next couple days. Everyone was young and seemed outdoorsy and ready. This trio of Australians had bought a lot of the recommended items on the packing list. I felt anxious and a little intimidated. We went to inkazuela for dinner, where we are delicious stews and fresh baked bread. A group of maybe 20 annoying Americans came and sat down and were so loud as we were paying. Embarrassing. We went home and packed and tried to go to bed early because we were waking up at 330 for a 4am pick up to start the drive to start the hike for Salkantay!!

3/17 BEGIN SALKANTAY

3/17 - Day 1 Salkantay

We woke up at 330, finalized our packing, and waited in the lobby briefly before our guide, Erick, arrived to pick us up on foot. He lived nearby our hotel in San Blas. We waited with him for the van, which didn’t seem to be where it was supposed to be. We got everyone picked up (including 3 bonus ppl who were doing a separate one-day trip. They were Thai but our guide Erick had told us they were Chinese lol.) We drove for about 2h on a windy bumpy road, I tried to sleep, but it was fitfull. When we stopped for breakfast I felt like actual shit and was worried I was getting altitude sickness. Jarod didn’t feel well either. I looked at the trekking route and realized we wouldn’t be much higher than Cusco, and this relieved me. We had a big breakfast (eggs, bread, fruit and yogurt, juice, coca tea), and sat by ourselves while the rest of the group bonded. We both started to feel better with the food and fresh air. We got back in the vans and drove another hour before getting off, sunscreening up, officially doing intros with our hiking group, and hitting the trail. Jarod and I were at the front with the other Americans, Chris and Alex from Buffalo, New York. The Australians, Emma, Ben, and Nick, were in the middle, with the Austrians, Anna and Patrick at the end. The start of the hike required some elevation climb, but then it evened out and we walked along an aqueduct in the mountainside for the majority of the trek. I accidentally called Emma Anna when asking her to take a photo. We made it to camp around 12? We were assigned Sky camps, which were tiny but beautiful glass comes with little twin beds in them after a 3-4ft doorway. I read and fell asleep for 7min before it was time for lunch). Lunch was a huge feast--the food was good but a bit cold. We then rested for half an hour and then hiked up to the lake. It was a relatively short hike, but quite steep. I was very out of breath, but led the charge alongside Chris. Anna and Patrick were lagging so far behind, Erick told us to go ahead and then wait at the half way point. Chris and Jarod and I led, waited for the group, then went on some more. The field we were walking through was full of cows and horses grazing, flanked by giant hills on either side. We walked up and over the top and found ourselves at a stunning blue lake. It was breathtaking, with streams from a snowy mountain running into an aquamarine reservoir. We took some photos, then climbed up a ridge along the side, from which we could see the lake as well as the grassy valley we came up through. It started to rain and we saw a beautiful rainbow in the valley but also needed to hurry back down. Everyone put on our ponchos and took a picture. I got my walking sticks for the way down, and they helped on the muddy parts but made me very slow. Jarod and I lagged behind the group as we all charged down the hill. We made it back, met as a team for tea time at 530, then dinner at 630. They had given us snacks, but we didn’t really need them because we were fed so often and so well. (I still ate my cookies earlier.. because they were delicious hehe). We got ready for bed after dinner around 8. I had a swig if Nick’s pisco before bed, then crawled into my sleeping bag and tried (but struggled) to sleep. I got up at 1am because Jarod was getting up. I hissed after him that I wanted to come to the bathroom, but he didn’t hear me. When I stepped outside, he was standing there. (He has walked toward the bathroom and been startled by a cow and come back loll). After that, I had a very hard time sleeping.

3/18 - Day 2 Salkantay

Started to climb, through some grassy fields, up the “Gringo killer” and to Salkantay summit, where it started raining. Emma had to breathe from an oxygen tank at the top (she had had severe altitude sickness in previous visits), and the Austrian couple took horses to the top to save their legs. On the far side of the summit, our trek got truly miserable. Steep decline. Soaked head to toe. I remember thinking, “Wow, we paid to do this.” We got to our midway lunch spot, where I tried to dry my socks, and we commiserated with our group. Thankfully, the rain let up, and the rest of the hike descended into warmer, more tropical forests. For tea time, they made us a freaking cake. We paid to use a shower and went into our little thatched-roof huts, a tiny space with one large bed. I had a dream that I had no feet (likely brought on by the extreme pain I felt in all of my joints!).

3/19 - Day 3 Salkantay

Started the trek with Erick painting our faces with berries. By this time, felt VERY bonded with the group. The hiking this day was much tamer, flatter roads, less extreme climbs/drops, and a fun little cart that we rode across a river. We stopped by a coffee plantation and had lunch there. We took a van some stretch of the drive to end up at the trailhead to Machu Picchu. We went out with our group for dinner, and I felt excited but also sad to be so close to the end of our time with them.

3/20 - Day 4 Salkantay (Machu Picchu!!)

Got up to start the trek to Machu Picchu around 5am(?). It was pitch black, and we CHARGED up the mountain, often annoyed that the people in front of us were not immediately letting us pass them. By the time we arrived at the gate, there were maybe 20 people in line, and we were drenched in sweat but also STOKED to be there. It was pretty chilly and very misty, so we had a few minutes of great visibility, but lots of fog other than that. Erick gave us a tour and some history, then (VERY SADLY) left us. Our group was a little devastated. We explored on our own a little, then headed back down as droves and droves of tourists poured in. We took a bus back and ate lunch (and many beers/pisco sours) at a small cafe while waiting for our train back. We eventually got on a train, which took us to a bus, which took us back to Cusco. We had booked a nicer room so that we could soak up the luxury after some very tough days on the trail. We met the Australians and the Austrians for drinks, and ended up staying up pretty late playing games and chatting with them in a Cusco bar.

3/21 CUSCO-->BOGOTA

3/21

We were awoken at 8 by a mysterious knock. I had some stomach trouble, then came back to bed. We got up at 845 to get breakfast. We ate the hotel breakfast, then went to our room to pack. I was feeling very sad to be leaving, nostalgic for our time on the trail. We packed, left our bags at the front, and went to go buy some “alpaca” blankets. We got two bracelets for J, three small paintings, and two alpaca blankets. The lady told us they were 50s even though we had been to the store before and been told 40, and had seen them elsewhere for 35. Jarod got her down to 40 and we left with them. By now I was hungry and emotional and tired, so I started to tear up over indecision with where to eat. We sat at a cafe and had 11s sandwiches. We went back to the hotel and had them call a cab. We arrived at the airport and checked in, then strangely waited in a room before being allowed through security (not many intl flights out of cusco... seems to require its own protocol). We made it to our gate and onto the plane. I was happy to be sitting next to Jarod (he was K and I was E... but for whatever reason those two are adjacent...) we had steak and vino tinto on the flight ;). We took a taxi home - a man lifted our bags into the trunk then asked for a tip. When we got there, our hosts were nowhere to be found and it was pouring rain. A property manager came out and started talking at us in Spanish very quickly--I think saying that our hosts hadn’t told her anything. She somewhat angrily escorted us outside, and I thought we were going to have to wait there. She then showed us how to work all the locks on the door, then let us inside. We got wine and cheese at the grocery store and snacked on those for dinner

3/22

We woke up around 8 with plans to eat breakfast at home then head to la candelaria for a bike tour at 1030. All appliances rebelled against us. The eggs stuck to the bottom of the pan, and the eggs that didn’t stick barely cooked. I tried to put laundry in but the timer never went down; it just perpetually washed. The toaster oven was a mystery of its own. Regardless, we eventually dined on eggs and arepas, and Jarod got the washer to switch to rinse then dry. We called an uber and got dropped off by the bike shop. We waited in a plaza and chatted with some other travelers. We embarked as a large group and found our way to a plaza with a statue of Simon Bolivar... talked about journalism... then split into two groups and departed. We biked to “the time square of Bogota” and talked about Germans convincing Colombians to drink beer instead of chicha... saw street art and discussed the battle between more/less formal forms... we biked through a neighborhood of mixed architecture and talked about the identity crisis in bogota... we rode to a park and snacked on fruits, then admired a giant map of bogota before riding past more street art (Jarod got a flat as usual), and to a big memorial for those killed in the civil war- tears streaming down the side of a building into a pool of water. We went to a coffee shop and talked some with our guide, Mateo. He talked about working in social services in London and suggested those services weren’t helpful. He showed impatience with others’ inability to learn english. We talked about the education system a bit then started our coffee tour. We biked down a more colorful street--with gov-commissioned art on all the walls. We rode through the red light district to a market for fruit tasting. We then ran across the street and learned how to play Tejo. It was really absurd and fun even though I was bad at it. Then we went back to the bike shop and paid. We got what was supposed to be a light lunch of ajiaco and a tamale to share - it was heavy. We walked to the main plaza and Gabriel Garcia Marques cultural center. We tried to stand outside our lunch spot to get WiFi to order an uber. Instead we went to a cafe and bought banana bread to get their code. We went home, hung out, then headed to el chato for dinner. The host asked if we had a reservation, which we had a hard time understanding. Eventually we were sat at the bar. We got cocktails, the best order of chips and guacamole ever, lamb (Jarod), and fish with mushrooms (me). When we finished dinner, we went to the grocery store to buy more coconut cookies and then we headed home. We went to bed around 11.

3/23

We were slow to start in the morning. We made breakfast and did some research on Monserrate before calling an uber to go there. The uber got lost in a nearby national park and asked several ppl for directions but apparently few of them were helpful. We finally made it to the trail head and hiked the (very tough) ascent of 2000m. It took us about 50min; we arrived around 12. The view was beautiful but there were lots of ppl- even a mass going on. There were lots of stands for foods and trinkets. On the way down we got queso fresco con fruta. We then walked all the way home, zagging through la candelaria, stopping for bunuelos and empanadas, and then by the park for fruit and carrot cake. There were countless street vendors with hot dogs, coconuts, fruits, cell phone minutes, dried food, etc. We got home, napped and snacked, then showered. We went to Bogota Brewing Company around the corner. The waitress talked to us a lot very quickly and we were totally lost. She then brought us four drinks to try -- we were worried we needed to say something about them but didn’t even really know what they were. We ordered beers and a pizza and reflected on the trip and plans for going home. We went to the store for more coconut cookies, then home. We sat and ate for a little, then packed up and went to bed around 10.

3/24 BOGOTA-->SAN FRANCISCO

3/24

345am wake up - was awoken a little early by drunks in the street. Got ready and Jarod called an uber. Rode to the airport, got through immigration and security, wanted crepes and waffles but couldn’t find them. Had to go to the desk to check in (after hearing our names over the speaker). Alarms were going off while we waited... no one seemed to care.

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goodlawdmaude · 4 years

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Southeast Asia 2018

I honestly thought I would give up on detailing my travel adventures by blog, but revisiting the indelible record of my old posts about previous adventures has inspired me to write a cursory summary of our more recent (... a relative term) trips.

SO, respecting chronology, let’s start with our Southeast Asia trip of 2020. Jarod and I left for Bangkok, Thailand on 2/7/2018 and returned to San Diego, CA on 2/28/2018. A lot of the notes below were taken throughout the trip and are arguably a bit too circuitous and detailed. Regardless, here it is:

DEPARTURE: 2/7

Our travel day was roughly 30 hours, involving layovers at SFO and Tokyo/Narita. It was pretty torturous, but we did technically eat ramen (airport ramen) in Japan (and admired the fun KitKat flavors). We arrived late on 2/8, exhausted from the travel. After landing, we took a taxi to the hostel, showered in the shared restroom, and went to sleep.

BANGKOK: 2/8 (late) - 2/10

2/9 (Day 1)

We woke up tired and had breakfast at the hostel with our dear friend Ben before setting out to explore old town. We grabbed some BOMB street food (40baht per plate), then wandered into a small wat (thinking it was the Grand Palace) and eventually into the Grand Palace -- brimming with the craziest swarm of tourists imaginable. From the palace, we walked to Khaosan--where we met our college friend, Alison, and her sister--for local food and beers. The street was lively and vibrant - full of henna stalls, carts pedaling fried scorpion, and vendors with brightly colored clothes and jewelry. After finding a taxi driver who would use a meter, we drove home and rallied for dinner at a local seafood spot (the menu was extensive and almost overwhelming). From there, we stopped at a cozy bar and drank grapefruit Sculpins before walking home and crashing.

CHIANG MAI: 2/10 - 2/13

2/10 (Day 2)

Jarod, Ben, and I flew in uneventfully and took taxi to our room - a little loft above a local bar. We grabbed lunch two doors down, then went for a run/work out at a nearby flower-filled park. When we returned to shower, we found it impossible due to low water pressure. We had to ask the staff to turn on the pump 3x to get through our showers. Clean, we headed to a nearby square for the Saturday night market. We purchased potstickers (40b), spring rolls and kebabs (50b), and soups (40b each), and feasted family style. From there, we took a tuk tuk to The North End jazz bar and coop, where we watched two jazz bands playing while the crowd overflowing into the street. We met Allison and her sister, Jess, back at the night market for 11pm crepes and divised a plan to hike Monk's trail the next day.

2/11 (Day 3)

After waking up around 7, we met Alison at her hotel and then drove off to the Monk’s trail. The trail was clear and hot and peaceful--clearly demarcated by orange ties of fabric. We arrived at a (pretty low key) temple buried in the hillside with a stream running through it. From there, the trail got quite steep and the hike became reasonably vigorous. We eventually arrived at our summit - another temple. It was grand and gold and gorgeous, but also pretty packed with visitors who had driven up. We bought some fresh orange juice and snacked in the shade, overlooking a valley/neighboring hillside. We spent some time exploring, then headed back. We got a delicious lunch at a restaurant near Alison’s, then returned to our Airbnb, went through another saga of showers, and took naps. We went to scope out the Sunday night market, which was huge and overwhelming - packed with people and hand-made goods. We met Alison at Dash! for dinner, shared a carafe of wine, and ate the best khao soi ever while enjoying live music. From Dash! Alison and I went back to the night market, where we saw a group of men playing exotic instruments. We headed home and called it a night.

2/12 (Day 4)

In celebration of Ben's birthday, we had a gluttonous breakfast at German bierhaus. Ben had to take some work calls, during which J and I met Alison and drove to Mae Sa waterfall. Swam in the 10th fall - deserted - hiked back, and lunched on the ground in a little hut. That evening, we were picked up at 4 for a cooking class. We toured an amazing local market, then to cooking school where we made 6 courses, but had to leave before dessert to avoid being late to a lady boy show. Took red truck to Warmup and got cocktails and a beer tower. Took a "taxi" to another club but it was closing so we went home.

LUANG PRABANG: 2/13 - 2/16

2/13 (Day 5)

We took a tuk tuk to the airport, got through security without an issue, and were on the ground in LP around 4 in the afternoon. We got a ride from the airport (courtesy of our guest house), checked in, then hit the town for a run. We joined a public Zumba class (led by a random person in the park), then ran back and showered. We dined at the restaurant on our block - including amazing chocolate fondue for dessert. Luang Prabang was breathtakingly beautiful; I was already obsessed.

2/14 (Day 6)

We woke up early to see the monks’ almsgiving and to exercise. After a large group passed through, we did a circuit in the open yard of our guest house, then showered and got breakfast. From breakfast, Ben went to do some work, and Jarod and I went to find our way to Kuang si falls. We took a bus from the lobby of our guest house. The aquamarine falls were gorgeous, but busy. After a short but steep climb, we arrived at the top. We opted to extend our trek (2km) to "spring water cave.” We jogged there, sweating profusely, and found an oasis of quiet as well as the cave. After exploring a bit, we headed back and descended the way we'd come, stopping half way down for a quiet dip in the freezing water. We dried off and hurried down, grabbing a mango shake and egg crepe before hustling into the van in the nick of time. When we returned, we showered, rested briefly, then headed out to grab a sunset drink with a view of the Mekong before hitting the night market for dinner. We grabbed mini potstickers, spring rolls, pork bun, and delicious wholesome soups, then crowded around a crooked table to eat. After dinner, we got dessert at a neighboring pastry stand, then went for drinks - a free shot and 20k 2 for 1 cocktails. "Drink like a fish for the price of water," they said.

2/15 (Day 7)

We woke up around 730, got breakfast at our place, then got ready to hike Chompet! We took a boat across the river (loaded with locals, motorbikes, and a couple cars). There was a small strip of town by the port point on the other side, but it was much different than the side from which we'd come. There were chickens everywhere, locals on dirt bikes and front porches, and very few tourists. The hike took us down a remote dirt road with gorgeous views of the Lao country side. The people we walked past stared (and often smiled) at us. At one point, we encountered a herd of water buffalo roaming the trail. They also stared at us. We forked off the road onto a footpath, continuing to weave through the jungle. We passed several temples, paying entry to see one of them (Chompet), and admiring others from a distance. The Buddha there was flanked by a sign for donations for "water, electricity, and education. We went back to grab lunch and to recoup before heading out for evening massages. Afterward, we wandered into a family-owned restaurant - run straight out of their house and had delicious "bo bun" and spring roll lettuce wrap style appetizer with greens and noodles. From there, we went to the night market for some shopping, where I had my first taste of Lao coconut pancakes (OMG!!)

HANOI-->CATBA-->SAPA: 2/16 - 2/23

2/16 (Day 8) Lao --> Hanoi

We woke up around 6 and tried to get ready quietly. We made it to Hanoi uneventfully, dropped our bags at the hotel, and went to walk around. There were lots of families out and about for Tet, wandering around the lake, dressed nicely, taking photos, and getting very annoyed if you walked through their photo. There were balloons and street vendors everywhere as well as people praying and burning incense at temples. We stopped for lunch on our way back, splitting a bahn mi and a tofu rice in tomato sauce as well as crepes. For dinner, we went to a place recommended by our hotel. We sat in children's plastic seats on the sidewalk, waiting for service. There was no menu; the waitstaff brought their one dish to us immediately. We went to bed around 10pm and got the best sleep ever. The room was cozy and clean and we (thought we) were all set with our 11am ride to CatBa the next morning.

2/17 (Day 9) Hanoi --> Cat Ba Island

We slept great and got up around 7am. We ate breakfast at the hotel, then went up to the room to get packed and ready for our bus pickup at 1030. Our bus never came. Around 1115 Jarod whatsapped them to ask if someone was coming. They replied that there was an issue with the bus and asked if we could take the 2pm. Our concierge called them for us, ultimately only to confirm that we would take the 2pm bus. With that, we left our bags and walked to west lake. Most places were still closed for Tet, so the city felt a bit unwelcoming. On the way, we got a 25k dong banh mi to share for lunch. We got back to the hotel around 130, to be informed that a bus had come for us at 1.... but would be back at 2. We sat patiently. At 3, there was still no bus. Jarod whatsapped once again, and was told the bus WAS on its way. Around 315, a sweaty, stressed out guide burst in and ushered us to the bus. The bus was crowded, and we had to sit in he back with our knees smushed into the seats in front of us, but the ride was beautiful - flanked by rice patties (with ornate graves in them) and fields of green and lakes. When we finally got dropped off at our hotel, we were met with a surprise. "Did you book through booking.com?" A ~12 year old girl asked on behalf of her family. Yes, yes we did. She said the electricity was out but that they would put us somewhere else for $10/day. They then walked us across the street to a hotel with a Vietnamese name and non English speaking staff. We went out for dinner at one of the few open restaurants, then watched a little tv and went to bed, sandwiched between two fuzzy red blankets.

2/18 (Day 10) Cat Ba Island

We woke up around 7, went down for breakfast, then hurried over to Asia Outdoors to book a kayak tour on the bay. We were loaded onto a big boat with a dining area and an upstairs deck. We sat on the deck, admiring the incredible views of the bays... floating villages with dogs running around... green water... giant limestone cliffs... We continued for about an hour before we stopped and were loaded into our kayaks. We rode around to seahorse lagoon where we sat quietly in hopes of seeing a langur. We continued paddling around and talked to our guide some about his background, learning that he makes $6/day kayak guiding. We headed back to the big boat, jumped quickly into the ABSOLUTELY FREEZING BUT AMAZING water and had a delicious lunch of tofu, chicken, fried fish, rice, steamed cabbage, potatoes... etc.. After lunch we got on a separate small boat back. Jarod tipped the guy 200k dong (<$10) and he exclaimed "bloody hell!!!" In excitement. He also warned us that our taxi back "might be a bit inconspicuous.... but I'll phone them"... luckily, it ended up being pretty conspicuous. We made it back to our hotel and showered in our weird (but amazingly warm) bath/shower combo. From there we went to an "early dinner." We failed to be served at two different restaurants (did manage beers at the second one), went to a third restaurant, starving now and a bit drunk on our empty stomachs. This restaurant was also a mess, but we managed to get dinner here. We went back to our room, dropped off laundry for $2/kg at our hotel, (told it would be done in 5h), and went to bed.

2/19 (Day 11) Catba-->Hanoi-->Sapa

We woke up around 7 to pack, eat, and be ready for the bus at 9. When I went to get the laundry, the woman tried to give me someone else's laundry and had a hard time understanding that it wasn't mine. She finally showed me to the laundry line, where our clothes were hanging- still quite damp. I collected them and blow dried what I could, but it was a mess. The bus came for us around 915 and was much less crowded. In Hanoi, We walked to Lilly's travel agency, dropped our bags, double checked the details for our trek, got cash&paid. We then got a 3 course lunch (~$20) and met up with Ben. For dinner, we went to a restaurant down the street where I had my best meal of Vietnam ("dry noodles" with lots of peanuts and mint). Lilly’s called us a taxi, which took us on a short drive to the train station, where we had to meet someone to get our tickets. The ticket holder was sitting inconspicuously in a corner texting, but we found her. We had to wait a bit, then boarded the train which had really awesome 4 person compartments. We pretty quickly went to bed, leaving the light on the bunk above Jarod on, for our 4th member. He came in shortly thereafter, got into bed, left his light on, and started snoring. He left it on all night. The beds were hard and the train was noisy, but it was definitely a great travel option.

2/20 (Day 12)

We woke up to a knock on our cabin door. We got ourselves together and got off the train, expecting to find someone with a "Jarod backens" sign who would drive us from lo kai to sapa (~1h). We had to wait awhile, but finally some young punky looking guy showed up. He walked us around a variety of vans before gesturing for us to climb in one. Once inside, a woman solicited "money?" For the ride. We had paid for our agency, so we refused. The ride up was beautiful but very windy and I felt quite car sick. When we got to sapa, the driver said "three people" and pointed out to a hotel/restaurant. We uncertainly got out and headed in and sat down. Luckily, our guides found us. There was a table of 4 other women who were a part of our group. We got breakfast (eggs, pancake to share, and tea), paid for the extra pancake and drinks, then embarked on our trek with a group of 5 women (French mother and daughter, 23yo Swiss best friends, and a Canadian girl with heavy black makeup) led by a group of wiley guides, dressed in black home made cloaks, long shorts, and fabric wrapped around their legs between their ankles and knees. Some wore simple sandals for the trek; all of them were tan, wrinkled, spunky, and dirty. The climb up was steep, and the views were incredible. On the way up, we climbed above the clouds, finding baby puppies, piglets, horses, etc. We stopped several times to breathe and once for lunch, where we were served heaping piles of fried rice or fried noodles. From there we hiked a while longer, our entire trek taking approximately 6h. When we arrived at the home stay--which was a newly built building with quite nice amenities--we sat outside and were served tea. We showered and got dressed and dinner was served around 7pm. The whole day, the tribeswomen had been talking a lot about "happy water" (rice whiskey) and how much we would drink. They weren't lying, but they DIDNT mention how much we would EAT! They served us (a table of 8-joined by a bohemian 37yo woman from Oakland) pork, chicken/duck on the bone, pork with lemon and mint, mushrooms, green beans, spring rolls, and white rice. They had a large family gathering of 15 or so at the table behind us. Different women kept coming to our table and urging us to eat more, often times plopping rice into our bowls. Later in the evening, the happy water came out in a jug with an angry birds logo on it. Mama Sho insisted we all drink, so we did. Jarod, the bohemian, Erin from Canada, Ben, and I sat around drinking a good long while. At one point, concerned I may be sick if I went on, I proclaimed THIS IS THE LAST ONE, took a shot, then went to the bathroom. When I returned, another one had been poured for me, but Jarod took it for me. We were spilling everywhere and it was a festive amazing mess.

2/21 (Day 13)

We woke up to Ben's knock around 850am, letting us know breakfast was happening. I felt horribly nauseous and hungover, but went down and managed to eat one pancake before going back upstairs and collapsing in bed. Eventually, I managed to get dressed and out the door for our hike. It was a warm and sunny day. We hiked to a waterfall where I put my feet in. We hiked to lunch--at which point I was feeling significantly better but not great--then hiked home. We laid on the ground for a bit and decided to have a push up contest instead. While we were doing our silly contest and rolling on the dirt, a new, large group of guests came in. We felt like idiots but continued our work out. After, we sat outside with some tea and met the 3 new guests - very nice German policemen. We talked about politics and gun control, then excused ourselves to shower. Dinner was served a little later that evening. Many of the same dishes were served, but our group was much larger, the family did not eat with us, and the pressure to eat and drink was greatly diminished. (Everyone admitted at one point or another that we drank too much the night before.) After dinner, we went to sit outside with the German boys and were joined by the Swiss girls. We went to bed around 930. I thought a lot about how close I was to the animals on the farm that were composing our dinners

2/22 (Day 14)

We woke up around 8, after sleeping quite hard for quite a long time. We went and sat outside and drank some tea/coffee with the German boys. Ben came and joined us - he had been up a while walking and playing with the friendly dog that was tied up. One tribeswoman came to peddle her goods, finding willing buyers in the Germans. We had a big breakfast of eggs and pancakes with honey, then got dressed, said farewell to the Germans, and embarked as a group of 5 on our last hike. It was a bit challenging-we had to walk on some narrow edges and I was worried about falling into mud pits. We walked to lunch and got soups, agreeing as a group to walk the 9k back to town rather than be shuttled there. It was a steep climb - our most physically difficult day by far. We made it back to the coffee shop we had started at. Mai showed up and gave us bracelets and hurried away -"Um Mao, so what about the bus??" Ben asked as she tried to get back in her car. She told us it would come at 5. We said goodbye to MamaSho and went inside to get something warm to drink. We wiped down with baby wipes and changed, then waited. Our shuttle came, and we quickly learned our driver was an absolute maniac, driving super aggressively and honking an insane amount as we picked up other travelers. We finally started driving down - during which he was much more careful. On the way down, we inexplicably stopped at a vegetable market and some people bought goods. We continued the slow descent and got in around 7pm. "Oh, you can get your tickets in that restaurant," the driver mentioned as an afterthought. We went to the restaurant, got the tickets, and ate dinner. We boarded the train and (once again with an awkward 4th-man interloper) went to bed.

KOH LANTA: 2/23 - 2/27

2/23 (Day 15)

We woke up on the train, walked briskly to Lillys with Ben, and said quick goodbyes before taking a taxi 40 minutes to the airport. At the airport, we got Burger King breakfasts for the perfect amount of dong we had left (the cashier actually asked for 2800... to which Jarod responded "I have 2700?" which was accepted.) We had a layover at DMK, and eventually made it to Krabi. With some trouble, we found our driver, got in a big ass luxurious van and hit traffic immediately. We arrived at our hotel on Koh Lanta around 8pm, showered, and then got dinner at the hotel restaurant. I got salmon, Jarod got pineapple fried rice, and we had chicken satay and a fabulous brownie with ice cream. We went to bed, planning to wake up early and exercise.

2/24 (Day 16)

We woke up around 7 and went down for breakfast. They had an assortment of delicious Thai food (leftovers?) as well as eggs bacon pancakes toast yogurt fruit etc. We ate our fill, then went on a little run. It was so hot I felt like dying, and our stomachs were a little upset. After, we spent some time by the beach/pool, then headed out to walk to lunch. We got lunch at Greenland - the owner turned on the fan when we arrived and was very nice to us. Really good massaman curry. For dinner, we walked to ShantiShanti down the road where we ate curries and crepes with cinnamon and toffee ice cream.

2/25 (Day 17)

We woke up around 7 and went down to breakfast before our work out. We did a circuit followed by a short run, then went straight to the beach. We hung and read for much of the afternoon, taking a break in the afternoon for a light lunch. After several hours in the sun, we walked to The Salty fish for sunset drinks. After sunset, we walked to Coconut grove for dinner. After finishing a carafe of wine and our meal, we went to our hotel bar to catch their happy hour. We got mai thais and sipped them on the day beds. We went to bed early.

2/26 (Day 18)

We woke up around 630 and went straight into our workout--starting with a jog after seeing there was someone in the gym. We did our most intense circuit while the other girl (still in the gym) did some VERY lame exercises with zero intensity... while pointing the only fan directly at herself. We finished our work out and went down for breakfast. We sipped coffee by the ocean and read for a while before going up to get serious about sunscreen and water. Around 1130, we walked into town to book our ride to the airport and get our nails done. I got the worst gel manicure ever and Jarod got his first pedicure. All in all, very fun and worth the small expense. We got lunch at a Rastafarian place on the beach, then walked our way on the beach back to our place. We sunscreened up and went to sit by the water. Around 6 we showered, changed for dinner, and drank some beers on the porch while checking in on 2018 goals. We walked across the street to get a taxi to klong khong beach (kwans), and accidentally haggled up the price of a crazy motor bike cart ride. There was live music at dinner and good khao soi. We walked home and went to bed.

2/27 (Day 19) --> Back to Bangkok

We woke up around 630, ran, stretched, got breakfast, and packed up. Our shared van to the airport came early (?!), arriving just as we were checking out. We went to pick up several more people, often making incorrect stops (to ask for directions?) and struggling to find the correct passengers. We arrived at the airport around 230, and though no monitors showed our flight, we found our correct terminal. We snacked on wafers, dried mango, and peanut M&Ms, then boarded with our bags ;). Upon arriving, we spent a low key evening in our hotel, getting mentally ready to end our glorious vacation.

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goodlawdmaude · 6 years

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Barcelona, Spain

Day 1 (4/11/17)

Got in late, checked into hostel, had dinner with Sara.

Day 2 (4/12/17)

Spent the entire day biking around the city. Ate in an awesome street market, saw Gaudi architecture, and looked at the beach...

Day 3 (4/13/17) - bonus day!

Went to the airport, waited on the tarmac for 2 hours, then got sent home. Navigated the chaos, made it to our hotel, ate a delicious free feast, then walked along the beach. Went to bed, woke up at like 3am and went to the airport and flew home.

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goodlawdmaude · 6 years

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Marrakech, Morocco

Day 1 (4/8/17)

Explored nervously

Day 2 (4/9/17)

Palace during the day, then hung with Iman (Jardin Majorelle, drinks, sushi)

Day 3 (4/10/17)

Hiked Atlas Mountains foothills and rode camels

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goodlawdmaude · 6 years

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Seville, Spain

Day 1 (4/4/17) -- my 25th birthday!

First half of the day was all business. Our travel day from Salamanca consisted of walking to train station, grabbing coffee, and riding to Madrid. At our stop in Madrid, we grabbed lunch before getting on the train to Seville. On that last leg of the ride, we rode awkwardly facing businessmen, watching the Sopranos. When we arrived, we walked to our AirBnB and met Alfonso.

Once we got settled, we headed to the nearby store and bought fruits, cheeses, chocolates and champagne for a birthday feast on our balcony. That evening, we had dinner at El Traga down the road. The place was packed, and we thought we weren’t going to get a table. When we did, we ordered several tapas, which were small and gourmet.

Day 2 (4/5/17)

We made breakfast at home, then walked to a bike rental agency. We rented bikes for 6 hours; we rode all over the neighborhood, taking in the sunshine and beautiful buildings everywhere. We crossed the bridge and rode along the river. We explored the Jewish quarter--eating on the patio of a restaurant tucked in the back alleys. We found our way to La Plaza de Espana, an absolutely breathtaking plaza whose immense panoramic grandeur and its ornate jaw-dropping detailing must be seen and cannot be captured in a photo. We returned our bikes, purchased postcards for coworkers, and returned home. We made dinner and watched The Sopranos.

Day 3 (4/6/17)

We made breakfast at home, went for a run by the river and did a circuit in the park. We showered, then went to a cafe for churros con chocolate. From there, we headed into the Jewish quarter. Per Jarod’s request, we sought out ~real coffee~which we had to get at Dunkin Donuts. Less than a block away (comically close, in my opinion) was La Catedral de Sevilla. It was big and beautiful with grand portraits and scenes. We saw Christopher Columbus’ (maybe) tomb, then spent some time in the courtyard, which was sunny and fragrant. We decided to climb La Giralda; a narrow, crowded walkway led up to an unbeatable view of the city.

We returned home and made leftovers for lunch. My stomach was hurting, so we purchased bananas and yogurt. In the evening, we went to a nearby bar for a flamenco show. The place was pretty packed with tourists, but had a great deal on sangria pitchers, so we drank and watched the performers from afar.

Day 4 (4/7/17)

We woke up and made breakfast, did a living room circuit, then got ready for the day. We planned to spend the day exploring Real Alcazar, so we set off for the Jewish quarter--stopping for a snack of calamari and Russian salad along the way. The gardens were immense and lush. There was beautiful tiling and greenery everywhere--too much for us to see, really. We spent some time relaxing in the quiet of the back gardens. We stepped briefly into a maze of hedges (in which some people were actually pretty lost!), but navigated out quickly.

After leaving the gardens, we stopped for gelato and a drink in a quiet alley before heading home. We stopped by the grocery store for snacks, nibbled a bit at home, then headed out for tapas and wine tasting. Tapas were delicious--maybe my favorite of the trip. When we got to wine tasting, the class was half english and half spanish, so the teacher ran through his explanations in both languages. We were seated near a silly liberal couple who was traveling for a full year and refused to say “Donald Trump”--the wife called it “the T-word.” We had a ton of fun and left with a bottle of Abba wine. After this last night in Seville, we came home, packed, went to bed around 1230.

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goodlawdmaude · 6 years

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Salamanca, Spain

Day 1 (3/31/17)

Getting to Salamanca was surprisingly smooth. We took a metro to a bus station, then rode the bus an easy 5h across the border of Spain. When we got in, we walked to our hostel. The receptionist, Miguel, was friendly and gave us a map and some tips for tackling this small college town.

After sitting on our asses all day, we wanted to roam around. We walked aimlessly until we were cranky with hunger. At that point, we stopped at Miguel’s favorite restaurant, Bambu, for tapas. We were delighted to learn that we received one free tapas to accompany each glass of wine we ordered. We paid 10 euro for 4 glasses of wine and 4 tapas--arguably the best deal of the trip. From there, we walked to Plaza Mayor and wandered into Doze to top off on (mediocre) wine and tapas. We stopped at a nearby market for dessert and wine, then headed home--we watched some Dave Chappelle stand-up and called in an early night.

Day 2 (4/1/17)

Despite our tame evening, we woke up late--around 10am. We had breakfast (coffee, juice, and toast with tomato spread) across the street. Once again, we went wandering--this time along the scenic river. We stumbled upon a park with funny exercise equipment and got a quick work out in. A nice old man told us he was impressed, and a dog almost peed on the sweatshirts we’d thrown on the ground.

We showered and went two doors down for lunch. The meal was tasty: chicken, vegetables, and cafe con leche. Filled up on this salty feast, we set off to explore town with a purpose. We walked by the university as well as the beautiful, large cathedral. Everything felt old and tall and lived in--crawling with students and admirers alike.

We crossed beautiful, old bridge and sat on the bank, squeezing in a 45min nap. After waking, we touched base at the hostel, then headed out for a beer and some reading/writing at a local cafe.

Again, we dined on tapas (partly due to our American schedule; most kitchens were only serving tapas during the time we were hungry). We opted for a more *gourmet* looking restaurant, where we were served tiny plates of flavorful food. After dinner, we wandered into a Spanish dive bar with live Cuban music scheduled for 1030pm. We got beers and waited for the band to start. They played one song at 1030, then delayed nearly an hour before starting up again. The table we were sitting at got removed to clear room for a dance floor that never took off. The scene was weird but interesting; crowd was eclectic. There were young students drinking orange cocktails out of giant glasses and an old couple who drank tea, then a round of beers.

Per usual, we stopped for dessert at a market, then watched more Dave Chapelle and went to bed.

Day 3 (4/2/17)

I woke up around 9 and read in bed until Jarod woke up. It was a sweet morning, in which I felt cozy and safe and lovey. We revisited the coffee shop across the street for breakfast and read for an hour or so. I was enthralled with The Rules Do Not Apply. Planning for our venture to Seville, we walked to the train station. Along the way, we sat in a local park, admiring a swan pond and taking in the sunshine. We walked back to the hostel to find the laundry we’d dropped off wasn’t ready. We scrounged together work out outfits, then headed off across the bridge for some exercise in a field. There were lots of kids, even more bugs, and my back-up workout shorts were flashing my butt at them all, but we got through it.

We took the scenic route back to the hostel, showered, and went out for dinner--lasagna and a combo plate. We tried to go up the cathedral, but it was already closed. We walked around the front--where we spotted the famous astronaut carving--and meandered towards our favorite spot, the bridge. Along the way, we stumbled on a beautiful botanical garden. From there, we made our way to the bridge and watched ducks play in the river while we leaned on the railing.

We made our way back to the hostel, stepped out for one drink (+ free tapas of course), then came back to the hostel to read and hang out. We were in bed early.

Day 4 (4/3/17)

I got a horrible night’s sleep, plagued by nightmares that my dad had gotten in an accident. I woke up around 8 unable to sleep, but rolled around until around 945. When we finally rose, we got breakfast at Salamanca coffee--ham and cheese croissant sandwiches and coffees.

For the afternoon, we prepared a picnic of fruits, meats, cheeses, and bread. We laid barefoot on the river bank, enjoying our feast, napping, canoodling, and reading. When we’d had our fill, we returned to the hostel and enjoyed some wine on the back porch. Our last meal was at Bambu--our favorite for tapas and wine. We picked up some Oreos, threw on some Sopranos, and packed for our trip to Seville.

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goodlawdmaude · 7 years

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Porto, Portugal

Day 1 (3/28)

We didn’t sleep much--or well--the night before our flight to Porto. But that was okay; the travel day was easy--a quick flight sandwiched between metro rides to/from the airports--and seeing Porto for the first time was electrifying. The city was sunny and hilly, accented by little patches of green grass and hillsides filled with colorful houses. In some ways, this arrival was more exciting than the first. Arriving in Madrid marked passage into a new world, but it was only one stop--only a baby step--and the prospect of traveling foreign lands for three full weeks still felt unreal. (”This is amazing... but I can’t believe it’s actually happening!!” I would think) Arriving in Porto made it clear that we were really doing it--that the adventure was only beginning.

Wandering through the town, I felt like we were in heaven. The sky was blue, the streets were friendly and bustling, and everything I laid eyes on was beautiful--from brightly-colored tile walls to soaring gothic-style spires. After settling in (unpacking, napping, and tasting some Port wine provided by our host) to our AirBnB, we set out to find some lunch and explore the city. We made the short walk down to the Duoro River and sat on a restaurant patio, eating pizza, drinking Port, and soaking up sunshine. I felt exhausted but ecstatic. How could life get better than this??

With no real sense of direction, we found ourselves at a picturesque highpoint of the city, on the grounds of a giant local monument, the Roman Catholic Church of Porto Cathedral (”Se do Porto” in Portuguese).

From there, we worked our way to the Monument Church of St Francis (Igreja de Sao Francisco). The church itself was grand: filled with ornate floor-to-ceiling wood carvings gilded in an estimated 400kg of gold. Allegedly, when Napoleon conquered Porto, he used the church, in all its opulence, as a stable for his horses. Below the church, we walked through catacombs holding tombs for members of the Franciscan order. At one point, we peered through a window to see remnants of actual human bones.

Porto confused me in the best possible way. On one hand, it felt so fresh: it was vibrant and young and creative with street performers and artists on every corner. On the other hand, it felt so ancient: the streets were flanked by centuries-old buildings and churches brimming with history and tradition.

That evening, we had a fabulous dinner--crab risotto for Jarod and vegetables over couscous with a yogurt sauce for me--accompanied by port wine (of course). From there, we simply wandered, admiring multitudes of old statues and beautiful, tile-covered buildings.

Like uncultured American swines, we stayed up late that night watching TV. Naked and Afraid, if you must know.

Day 2 (3/29)

We started our second day in Porto with coffee and delicious Natas (Portuguese egg custard tarts), which I could easily eat for every meal of every day. We followed this nutritious breakfast with a run--East along the river--during which we saw numerous fishermen and a funny Portuguese man that we felt like we were unintentionally chasing.

We got lunch at an adorable little sit-down sandwich spot. It was bustling and compact, with tables mere inches apart. The waitress was kind and hard-working, rushing from table to table with a smile. I had a mint lemonade as well as cauliflower soup and a pineappley salad--a full, delicious lunch for ~7€!

After lunch, we embarked on a port wine tasting journey. From our AirBnB, we crossed the river and walked along its bank, which was flanked by dozens of vendors who competed for our--and other tourists’--attention. We did a tour and tasting at Sanderson winery, where we learned about rubys, tawnys, whites, and vintages. (My take-home was that they all pair wonderfully with desserts!)

After the guided tour at Sanderson, we went seeking some independent tastings. We tried Ferreira, but they only had tours. We tasted some Porto Cruz ports, sitting on the alley-way patio of the restaurant adjacent to the winery. We walked up some serious hills past Offley--which looked closed--to Croft, where we enjoyed port flights on a balcony with a fabulous view. From there, we walked to Taylor’s which had a fancier vibe and a lovely back patio with purple flowers and peacocks. Once again, I was nearly overwhelmed with our good fortune; We are living our freaking best lives, I thought.

On our walk back, we stopped by an awesome coop that was selling clothing and art and port flights. We tried some Niepoort winery ports and cheered on the coop workers as they tried to shepherd a baby pigeon out of their warehouse-style building.

That evening, we made dinner at home. And we didn’t cheapen our cultural experiences with Naked and Afraid. Instead, we watched an intense climbing documentary. Real shit, people. Real. Shit.

Day 3 (3/30)

On day 3, we slept in. When we did get up, we did a short work out in the apartment and made breakfast. From there, we set out to hit some sights.

We wandered through the Sao Bento station, whose walls were covered in history in the form of hand-painted tiles. We strolled along busy streets and main squares, into a church where people people were kneeling, praying, and--in one case--crying (oops). We meandered over to on of the top-rated bookstores in the world, Livraria Lello. Even though it was brimming with tourists, it was a lovely shop: a kooky, forked staircase sprouted out of the center, and the ceiling was covered by beautiful stained-glass skylights.

We stopped for lunch and then went to the Clerigos Church to climb the bell tower and see Porto from its highest point. The stairways were crowded, but the views were well worth it!

We tended to some logistics; stopping to buy snacks (for the bus ride to Salamanca) and a Portuguese rooster (a souvenir for a coworker of mine). After, we attempted to see one last sight: the Palacio da Bolsa (Stock Exchange Palace). They were closing, so we didn’t take a tour, but I did (*illegally*) start walking through the area where tours take place. I got to take a good 20 second look before someone stopped me. ;)

From there, we walked along the water and through some cool artisanal shops selling glass and clay figurines as well as tiles and paintings. Thirsty from all of the walking, we plopped onto a restaurant patio and sipped port while overlooking the river. (Best. Freaking. Lives.)

It started to rain a little, but I wanted to stop by a wine shop before heading back to make sure I got a Port flight for my best friend before the shop closed. As we walked back, the heavens opened up and started POURING! Most (normal) people ducked into shops or under awnings, but Jarod and I started running, laughing crazily the whole way. We definitely got weird looks. By the time we made it to our AirBnB, we were DRENCHED. I’ll never forget that kooky, exhilarating run through the rain.

That evening, we went to the restaurant next door for dinner. We had a fantastic experience eating amazing tapas-style dishes and chatting with the incredibly hospitable, generous restaurant owner. When we finished, we returned home and spent the evening blow drying our soaking wet clothes so that we could pack up, preparing for our bus ride to Salamanca the next morning.

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goodlawdmaude · 7 years

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Madrid, Spain

Day 1 (3/24)

After landing in Madrid, navigating our way to our AirBnB, and napping for two hours, Jarod and I were woken up around 1:30pm by a knock at the door. Our host had told us that a man named Ous would come to clean the apartment at 2pm. What she didn’t mention was that Ous--while incredibly nice--did not speak any English. In a mixture of Spanish and charades, we managed to agree that we would leave the apartment for an hour so that he could clean.

In a daze, we piled on our layers (it’s cold in Madrid in March!!) and headed out. We walked through the Barrio (neighborhood) of La Lavapies and into La Latina, walking until we came to La Real Basílica de San Francisco el Grande. We sat in a plaza on the South side of the church, admiring the structure’s large, yellow dome and resting our very weary bones. From there, we wandered North past El Palacio Real de Madrid, through La Plaza de Oriente, and finally back through the center of Madrid to our apartment.

Even though my body was dull with exhaustion, taxed heavily by the previous day/night, I was awestruck by the beautiful city streets and extravagant monuments. Everything was picturesque. There were balconies on every building with ferns growing in ornate pots and flower beds snuggled up against decorative railings. At crosswalks and through cafe windows, I saw people smoking cigarettes and sipping espressos; talking quickly, excitedly, rhythmically with wide eyes and exaggerated hand gestures. We were in a new place, and I was stoked to explore it!!

By now, it was around 4:30pm, and we were hungry. We set off in search of a restaurant nearby and found two whose kitchens were closed. This was our first inconvenient encounter with ~siesta~. Even hungrier now, we found a market and bought tortellini and vegetables to cook back at the apartment. That night, we were in bed by 8:30.

Day 2 (3/25)

Our first real (still surreal) morning in Madrid, we woke up at a reasonably early hour after an unreasonably excessive amount of sleep. We made eggs at home, then went to a nearby cafe recommended by our host, Maria. Again, it felt like there was culture everywhere. The people around us were dressed neatly in scarves and hats and boots (still freezing!), ordering pastries and warm drinks, dipping the former into the latter and eating them slowly and gracefully. Here, we each got two coffees and drank them quietly, soaking up the environment around us. I admit I was (I still am) a bit self conscious; I didn’t want to speak too much or too loudly in my ugly American accent and identify myself as an obnoxious outsider.

At this cafe, we started to suspect that coffee in Spain is different than coffee in the US. In Spain, a coffee is served small in a cute little teacup on a saucer with a packet of sugar on the side. You can order a couple different variants--cafe solo (shot of espresso), cafe americano (still small), or cafe con leche (larger, but half milk)--but there is no order that will get you a giant mug of good old fashioned black coffee. (”Cafe negro” will get you the prompt: “Cafe Americano?” to which you will nod, confused and disappointed when you get a tiny teacup of slightly diluted espresso.) I digress.

From the cafe, we headed to El Museo Del Prado, where we spent hours admiring--or more often puzzling over --thousands of paintings. My favorite was a small piece, entitled “The Painter’s Children,” which portrayed two young girls lounging on a futon, one wrapped in a pretty Japanese blanket, the other sprawled on a cushion. Jarod’s was a huge portrait of a Roman (??) leader dead in a bathtub--a suicide referenced as honorable in The Godfather.

When we thought we might die of hunger, we tore ourselves from the Prado despite only seeing (maybe) half of the art on display. We wandered up the street and into a tapas restaurant. This was when we truly started embracing Spanish culture with a mid-day glass of wine and four sequential plates of tapas rich with meats, cheeses, and oil. This was also when I learned that a “Russian salad” does not contain lettuce, but lots of potatoes and mayonnaise.

We went back to our apartment, took naps (Jarod) and studied the city (Lizzy). Still feeling full and generally out of sorts, we headed to the Santa Ana square//Barrio de Las Letras (the literary district, where the paving stones of the main street are engraved with some of the best known lines from 16th and 17th century Spanish literature). We got mixed drinks and a plate of tortillas and hummus at a hipster joint full of trendy young people, then proceeded to a lively gin bar called Carbones 13, where we each had a gin and tonic--the first that I have ever truly liked.

We stopped at home briefly before rushing out to catch an authentic live flamenco performance at a bar on our corner, El Candela. We put our names down to reserve seats, then had half an hour to kill before the performance started. We spent that time in a lively, divey Bodega (wine bar) down the block. Our drinks were cheap (5€ for two) and came with a plate of potato chips.

The performance itself was fabulous. There were only 4 people on stage and only one who danced. It was the first flamenco I’ve ever seen live, and I was struck by the drama of the production. The dancer’s heels banged loudly on the hollow stage floor, the tassels of her outfit swung wildly as she moved, and her face and hands were full of intense emotion. The crowd shouted “ole!” and the end of each piece--and sometimes during--to show their appreciation and admiration. (I didn’t know that was a real thing, but I loved it.)

After, we went home and stayed up a while longer, confused as to what time zone we were in. Suddenly, it seemed quite late--3 or 4am--but we were not exactly to be counted on to know the time. Little did we know, day lights savings had occurred that night; a phenomenon which would further confuse us in the morning.

Day 3 (3/26)

We woke up around 10am, with 1pm lunch reservations at one of the oldest restaurants in the world quickly approaching. Jarod was a little hungover as we embarked towards Botín for our lunch date. He ordered shrimp, which came with the legs and heads still attached. Decapitating them was a task that hungover Jarod liked even less than spry Jarod would have. I ordered cod, which was smothered in a soup of delicious tomato sauce and was impractically humongous (I am notorious for clearing my plate and could only eat half). We drank half a pitcher of sangria--which may have been ambitious given the night before, but when on vacation...--and finished the meal up with a DIVINE chocolate mousse cake. The meal was tasty, but pricey (80€) and the restaurant itself was lovely, but packed with tourists (ourselves among them). It didn't turn out to be quite the cultural endeavor I had imagined, although we did see (what I imagine to be) some very traditional Spanish dishes, such as "baby squid, cooked in his own ink." Harsh.

After lunch, we went in search of Madrid's famous flea market: El Rastro. I had the driving interest in El Rastro, but had done a poor job of researching the actual location (I knew it was in La Latina from 10am-3pm... And not much else). In our search for the market, we stumbled upon a giant amphitheater type hole in the ground, covered in weeds and graffiti and tattooed young people. There were two guys playing live music, the speaker too weak to allow us to hear them from the entrance ramp on which we stood. It was a little silly, but I felt alive being there, like I was seeing an authentic, grimy part of modern life in Madrid.

With Jarod's guidance, we finally found El Rastro as it was closing down. We walked through the stalls of leathers, rugs, fans, and clothing, admiring everything but avoiding wanting anything (I could hardly order coffee for myself let alone haggle with a street vendor). At the end of the road, we found ourselves at an old tobacco factory, La Tabacaleria, that had long ago shut down and repurposed as an art gallery. Atlas Obscura had called this out as one of the hidden gems worth seeing in Madrid, and there was no entry fee, so we headed in.

The art exhibit was eerie--one piece was a TV hung from the rafters and entwined in a chain, broadcasting silent black and white footage--fitting for the cold and dark hallways of La Tabacaleria. There were lots of other videos in Spanish (which we didn't watch), but also some cool images of Mayan ruins (which interested me more).

When we finally got back home, we siesta'd--as is the Spanish way--and woke up some time later, ready to get our first real exercise in. We went to the Parque Del Buen Retiro, and ran around its perimeter, then walked through the interior, stopping to admire the Palacio De Velazquez, Palacio De Crystal, and a man-made lake--full of couples in paddle boats--that flanks the Monumento a Alfonso XII.

Our stomachs were still very confused so we elected to make dinner at home that evening, stopping by the market for rice, chicken, and vegetables.

Day 4 (3/27)

By day 4, you would think we would have at least somewhat adjusted to Spanish time. And in a way we had: we were waking up late, taking naps in the afternoon, and staying up later. So on day 4, we slept in. When we finally tore ourselves from the cozy den of bed, it was around 11am. We still needed coffee, so we headed out towards La Plaza Mayor and stepped into a coffee shop along the way.

From the Plaza, we headed out to revisit the west side of Madrid: the Royal Palace we had seen on day 1 in a daze, the old theater (Teatro Real) we had missed entirely, and the Egyptian temple (Templo De Debod) we hadn't known about. After walking for several hours, we were famished. We came home, pooled some leftovers to snack on, then exercised in our living room and cleaned up in preparation for our impending departure.

We headed out for our final dinner. We planned to go to Museo Chicote: an old restaurant and “Madrid landmark” frequented by famous people (Ernest Hemingway among them). However, it was closed (as are a lot of shops and restaurants on Monday in Madrid, apparently). We backtracked to the literary district and chose a restaurant called "La Vinoteca." Obviously. There, we feasted on shared plates of cheesy croquettes, flavorful meatballs, and crostini topped with mozzarella and tomato. On the way home, we stopped at a nearby Bodega, which was dark but inviting and buzzing with activity. And with that, our time in Madrid had come to an end. We packed and prepared for our jarringly early 530am wake-up the next day, after which we would take the metro to the airport and fly to Porto, Portugal.

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