reblogging for my own reference as I will never find it again ofcourse
The Big List of Sewing References
Over the past two years or so I’ve collected a fair amount of sewing references and tutorials, applicable to both cosplay and regular garment sewing. They’ve helped me out a lot, so I thought other people might benefit from them too!
Basics/General
Sewing vocabulary http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/p/glossary.html
About patterns (reading, altering, drafting) http://chicostume.org/handouts/Pattern_Reading.html
Introduction to patterns http://www.sewmamasew.com/2008/05/patterns-demystified/
About thread tension http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4302/understanding-thread-tension
About interfacing http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2012/03/interfacing-insights-from-fashion.html
How to gather fabric http://www.thefamilyhomestead.com/gatherfabrictutorial.htm
Preparations
How to pre-shrink wool http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/2010/08/tutorial-pre-shrink-woolfast-and-easy.html
Cutting slippery fabrics with tissue paper http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2013/04/cutting-slippery-fabrics-with-tissue.html
Comparison of steel and spiral boning http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/articles/free/intermediate/99-experimenting-with-steel-boning-by-jenni-hampshire
Time-saving trick for a boned bodice muslin http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2013/04/time-saving-trick-for-boned-bodice.html
Darts
About darts http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2011/01/get-smart-with-darts.html
How to French seam a dart http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2010/04/tricks-of-trade-french-seam-dart.html
Tailoring, Altering, and Fitting
How to fit pants http://www.coletterie.com/sewalongs/the-colette-patterns-pants-fitting-cheatsheet
About swayback alterations http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2010/12/sway-back-alterations-my-analysis.html
About tailored jackets http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2011/03/anatomy-of-tailored-jacket.html
How to tailor a coat front part 1 http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/tailoring-your-coat-front-part-one.html
Part 2 http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/tailoring-your-coat-front-part-two.html
Part 3 http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/tailoring-your-coat-front-part-three.html
How to remove gaping from the neckline of a fitted dress http://bernieandi.wordpress.com/2012/07/13/pattern-alterations-how-to-remove-gaping-or-excess-fabric-from-neckline-of-a-fitted-dress/
Finishing Seam Allowances
How to finish seam allowances (without Serging) http://www.craftstylish.com/item/41979/try-these-techniques-for-perfectly-beautiful-seams
How to do a Hong Kong seam binding http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/hong-kong-binding-seam-finish
Turned and stitched finished seam allowances (my personal favorite method) http://sewaholic.net/seam-finishes-turned-and-stitched/
French seams http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2010/03/tricks-of-trade-easy-french-seams.html
Linings
Easy lining http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4971/a-shortcut-to-great-linings
Lining a sleeveless dress http://stitchywitch.wordpress.com/2010/06/21/tutorial-lining-a-sleeveless-dress/
Sleeves
How to draft a simple band sleeve http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2011/11/drafting-simple-band-sleeve.html
How to sew a tulip sleeve http://sewchicpatterns.blogspot.com/2011/04/make-your-own-tulip-sleeve-tutorial.html
How to sew a two piece underarm gusset http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2012/01/how-to-sew-two-piece-underarm-gusset.html
How to sew kimono sleeve gussets http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2011/02/kimono-sleeve-gussets.html
More on sewing kimono sleeve gussets http://didyoumakethat.wordpress.com/2011/07/06/kimono-sleeve-gussets/
Zippers
How to sew an invisible zipper http://www.clevernesting.com/2009/06/invisible-zipper-tutorial-from-whipstitch/
Invisible zipper tutorial http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-installing-an-invisible-zipper
Another invisible zipper tutorial http://byhandlondon.com/2012/06/21/inserting-an-invisible-zipper-the-definitive-tutorial/
How to do a hand-picked zipper http://sewaholic.net/a-hand-picked-zipper-progress-on-the-picnic-dress/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+Sewaholic+%28Sewaholic.net+Newsletter%29
Hems
About hems http://www.sewmamasew.com/2010/06/all-about-hems/
How to mitre a folded hem http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2010/03/tricks-of-trade-mitre-folded-hem.html
How to hem an inverted pleat http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2012/03/tricks-of-trade-how-to-hem-inverted.html
How to sew a hand-rolled hem http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2011/06/getting-all-couture-y-hand-rolled-hem.html
How to sew an invisible hem http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2012/03/tricks-of-trade-sewing-invisible-hem.html
Odds and Ends
Circle skirt calculator http://pattythesnugbug.com/2011/circle-skirt-calculator-for-the-drafting-of-full-half-and-34-skirts-with-bonus-grading-worksheet/
Half circle skirts http://makingthings.andreatung.com/2009/07/circle-skirts-part-2.html
How to sew a full, gathered skirt part 1 http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2009/08/sew-full-gathered-skirt-part-one-make.html
Part 2 http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2009/08/make-this-skirt-part-two-of-gathered.html
How to make a half slip http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2009/07/make-vintage-inspired-half-slip-no.html
How to bind neck and armholes with bias tape http://suchtreasures.com/2008/06/14/applying-bias-tape-at-neckline-and-armhole-curves-as-binding/
Covered button tutorial http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/02/covered-button-tutorial.html
Bound buttonhole tutorial http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/bound-buttonhole-tutorial.html
Finishing bound buttonholes http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/10/finishing-your-bound-buttonholes.html
How to make belts http://blog.caseybrowndesigns.com/2011/03/beltmaking-101/
How to do ruffles http://www.rufflesandstuff.com/2009/08/ruffles.html
How to do a convertible collar http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2011/01/tricks-of-trade-convertible-collars.html
Shaping a shirt collar http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2013/03/shaping-shirt-collar.html
Lace/eyelet collar tutorial http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2013/07/sewing-lace-or-eyelet-collar.html
Cutting checks and plaids, part 1 http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2012/05/cutting-checks-and-plaids-part-1.html
Part 2 http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2012/05/cutting-checks-or-plaids-part-2.html
How to sew checks/plaids to match perfectly http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.nz/2012/05/sewing-checks-magic-pat-trick.html
How to attach bias tape with mitered corners http://sewtospeak.blogspot.com/2010/04/how-to-attach-bias-tape-with-mitered.html
How to use Swarovski crystals http://www.edelweisspatterns.com/blog/?p=2219
How to sew a 50s petticoat http://www.edelweisspatterns.com/blog/?p=850
Horsehair braid tutorial http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/06/magic-of-horsehair-braid-little.html
How to sew with velvet http://www.fashion-era.com/velvets/velvet_sewing_tips.htm
How to make felt roses http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2012/03/easy-felt-roses-tutorial-with-video.html
How to do a foundation for a fascinator hat http://hatstruck.blogspot.com/2010/02/fundations-for-my-cocktailfacinator.html
More tutorials http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/p/tricks-of-trade.html
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Super long Wig Buying and Styling Master Guide For All Your Cosplay Needs
Wigs can make or break a cosplay, seriously. If you’re going to invest in one expensive thing for a cosplay, let it be the wig.
Sure you can get a cheap wig from party city, but trust me, you’ll regret it. Cheap wigs are impossible to style, the skeleton shows through, and the hair falls out like crazy. When buying a wig look for a heat resistant and skin top wig. Special parts and pulled back hair calls for special wigs such as lace front and lace top.
I’ve had people ask me about using their own hair instead of a wig. I do not recommend this at all, unless your hair is just like the character’s. Anime characters are extremely stylized, and over the top. Natural hair typically does not stand out enough to look that great for cosplay. It’s also a pain to have to style your hair each time you want to cosplay, and making sure it’s the right length.
I advise getting a wig if your character has:
Any unnatural colored hair. It’s a PAIN to dye your hair a super bright color and keep up with it long term, and it will usually not look as good as a wig.
Any spiked or weird crazy style. Natural hair is usually not full enough to make spikes work well.
Jet black hair. Even most people with “black hair” actually have dark brown hair. A black wig will usually look more rich
There are exceptions to all of these, of course!
Real hair is usually better if your character has:
A natural color that is close to your own hair including: blonde, brown, and red. If you’re dirty blond but your character is platinum blond, don’t sweat it unless you’re really concerned about accuracy
A length that can be easily maintained. I do NOT recommend cutting your hair in a weird way for a character unless you KNOW you want that cut every single day of your life for a while
All of things above plus a crazy part like a zig-zag part or pig tails. Zig Zag parts or ponytails/pig tails take a LOT of work and extra money to do to a wig.
A good example: I have waist length long brown hair and am cosplaying Painwheel. She has a zig zag part and a bun with a big hair loopy in the back. My hair is long enough to form the loop, and all I have to do is buy a clip-on bun and I’m set. If I wanted a wig like this, I would have to buy an EXPENSIVE full lace wig. Using my real hair is the best choice in this case
Where to buy: Note, all of the sellers I list only sell heat-resistant wigs
Arda wigs is my new favorite. All of the wigs are very full, and use the same, incredibly realistic fibers. Their lace fronts are absolutely fantastic.
Lucaille has an AMAZING selection. They have the biggest character-specific selection I have ever seen. They all look very accurate, and are extremely cheap. They also have some nice fashion/lolita cosplay wigs.
Epic Cosplay Wigs has a very large selection, and they are recommended by lots of professionals. They are very soft and good quality with minimum sheen.
Insomnium wigs is great!
Amphigory has a HUGE selection of wigs and extensions
The Five Wits has great character-specific wigs
ebay user Agree518’s Fashion-Cosplay-Wigs shop has a humongous selection of wigs. I have been buying from them for years, and am happy with all of the wigs I bought. However, they aren’t all made the same and some of them are much thinner and courser than others. None of them are going to be super-fantastic quality like Arda and Insomnium.
AnimeStuffStore on ebay has a great Cosplay wig section
Cosplay Wigs USA has some unique styles
Matchwigs are alright, but be warned: they all are VERY full and look a bit too poofy and unnatural. Good for super styled spikes.
Cosplay.com Shopping I’ve heard mixed reviews about, though I’ve never bought wigs from them.
I Kick Shins is great for extensions and styling supplies. I bought lots of human hair wefts from them and they’re absolutely gorgeous, and cheap!
Petting Zoo Wigs has extentions
Doctored Locks has extentions
Milanoo gets a lot of mixed reveiws since, unlike the other sites I have listed, their wigs come from many different sellers. I would stay away from them.
God Save The Queen does custom wig commissions
Here is my masterpost on what wigs to buy for every single Homestuck character
Styling:
- Products:
A Styrofoam mannequin head is essential for wig styling. They are $5 at hobby lobby.
Hair wax to style bangs, spikes, and to tease hair.
Spiking glue to style spikes
Many people say not to use gel in wigs. While I somewhat agree since gel will cake the fibers together and make them extremely stiff and shiny, it is necessary in some cases. I used gel to smooth down and solidify my Elsa braid. Otherwise, it kept coming out because it was so full. Gel is good to use on the end of super styled spikes to keep the fibers together. Gel is not good if you’re trying to make semi-realistic spikes.
Hairspray to hold the wig’s shape. I recommend freeze spray for holding spikes and special curls
Wide tooth comb to comb the wig. Never use a comb for curls, use your fingers to lightly brush it
Rat comb is used to back-comb wigs for volume, or spikes
Blow dryer for styling curles
Never use hair straighteners or curling irons
Sewing shears are my personal preference for cutting wigs. Many people say not to do this because they’re so sharp, and can leave edges too perfect. I just know how to work them. It really depends on your methods of style. If you want good hair thinning shears, here are some. Don’t use the scissors you use for wig cutting on anything else, and especially not paper
Foam curlers work best for curling wigs
-Layering:
Layering a wig
Wig styling/layering part 1, part 2
-Cutting Bangs:
Comb the desired amount of bangs that you want to cut to the front. Divide the hair into several sections Pinch each section of hair and always cut longer than you need. If you’re using a razor use an up and down motion if it doesn’t cut through all at once. Do not use a sawing motion. If you’re using scissors (sewing shears), than cut with the scissors at an angle so that the edges are not too sharp
Cutting bangs
Cutting bangs 2
How to cut thick bangs
Fluffy Bangs
Fluffy Bangs 2
Super anime gravity defying bangs
Cutting simple bangs
please for the love of god do not do this!!!
-Styling Spikes:
Spikes (roxas)
Spikes 2 (L)
Spikes 3
Long, thin spikes (Dark Mousy)
Perfect, stiff, authentic spikes (cloud)
Huge, gravity defying spikes (jinx, from teen titans)
Building a spiked wig with a foam base (Yugi Moto)
- Curling:
The best way to curl a wig! (In my opinion)
General how to curl
General How to curl 2
Curling huge drill spirals
Curling huge drill spirals 2
Curling huge drill spirals 3
Pincurls
using hot water to curl
-Straightening:
Never use a straightening iron
How to straighten 1
How to straighten 2
Straightening a spiky wig
-Teasing:
Teasing a wig to make it look fuller
Adding volume: Video tutorial
Style a beehive
-Dying:
There is no way to lighten a wig with die if it’s too dark. The only method is leaving it out in the sun, but be careful because this is inconsistant and could create streaks, or gradients
Do not use colored hairspray to try to dye a wig. Don’t use colored hairspray to dye your hair as a substitute for a wig. DON’T EVER USE COLORED HAIRSPRAY
Use Actual wig dying ink, or FW ink (video tutorial)
dying with polyester fabric dye
dying with (very cheap) rit fabric dye
You can make your own wig dye
You can use acrylic ink (tutorial)
Or you can die your wig with sharpie
Painting designs on a wig
You can sometimes remove wig die, but it doesn’t always work depending on what ink you use. Put the wig in a ziplock bag filled with rubbing alcohol and squish and shake it well, then rinse. You only need to let it sit in the alcohol for a few seconds; the die should come right off. Just make sure it gets everywhere. If the die doesn’t come out completely, let the wig air dry and repeat the process
Wig dye does not work well on Elora fiber, but the only Elora fiber I’ve seen is the New Look line so it’s not a big worry
Special Styles:
-Cowlick/hairlines:
Cowlick
Ahoge
Easy widow’s peak (or any) hairline
Cowlick/widow’s peak part 1, part 2 (same method)
-Lace Front Wigs:
I buy all of mine from Arda wigs. They’re cheap for lace fronts and VERY good quality. Extremely thick and sturdy with very realistic fibers.
IMPORTANT! You must watch this if you buy one: Putting on a lace front
I used spirit gum first, but it was a pain and leaves yellow scum on the wig. Very hard to clean off. I advise using lace front tape. Arda wigs supplies it, but it’s usually out of stock. You can get them very cheap on ebay.
Wig ventelating (GREAT video tutorial!)
Wig ventelating 2
Arda wigs also sells ventilating needles + holder, but they are often out of stock
This ebay seller has cheap wig ventilating needles + holder in 4 different sizes. (They also just needles)
Fx Supply sells ventilating needles (holder sold separately)
If you’re making your own lace front, Hugo Royer and Atelier Bassi sell super fine swiss lace
-Ponytails/buns/parts:
Criss-Cross part
Easy ponytail
high ponytail
high ponytail 2 (click on the “newer” thumbnails to the right of the picture to go through the tutorial)
huge ponytail
parting for pigtails
Low no-weft pigtails
Bun/Odango 1
Bun/Odango 2 (click the “newer” pictures at the right to continure tutorial)
Spiral Bun
Stubbing a wig for buns
Simple, three-strand braid
-Wig wefting:
Making wefts
Making wefts 2
Sewing wefts into a wig
Sewing wefts into a wig 2
sewing wefts 3 (Video tutorial)
Making “new sew” wefts
Sewing in wefts
Sewing hair into a wig
Adding hair to a wig (alternative method)
Putting two wigs together
Putting two wigs together 2 (Nia- Gurren Lagann)
-Character Styles (some of the tutorials above are for specific characters too):
Two-toned wig (for Lolita style, Stocking… etc)
Candy roll forelocks (Zelda)
Yugi Moto
Cloud
Toph
Hozuki and Bonbori
Bobby pin-free stylized flips/curls (My Roxy Lalonde tutorial)
Sailor Moon
Sailor Moon
Sailor Moon
Chibimoon: Sailor Moon
Sasuke
Yuna Hair tail
Saber
Rapunzel
Rapunzel 2
Rapunzel 3
Merida (Brave)
Half wig/mohawks (marceline, Tavors, etc…)
Jessie (pokemon)
Geisha
Making your own wig from scratch:
Make your own wig (Yoruichi)
Making your own wig 2 (Shania)
Phoenix wright wig (a not-so-traditional method) (could work well for Yugi Moto)
Wearing:
Putting on the wig
Always wear a wig cap. It prevents ichyness, and will keep your wig from sliding around. Even if you have short hair, wear it
Pin your wig to your hair/wig cap with bobby pins
If you have long hair, than use this method to pin your hair up. I use it every time, and if I don’t, my wig slides down with wear
wearing a lace front wig
Wig Care:
-Brushing:
Only brush straight hair with a wide-tooth comb. Brush the tips first, then move up to the top of the wig
Do not use a comb to brush curls, use your fingers gently
If your curly wig has a straight top, or straight bangs, you can use a brush to comb the straight parts.
-Washing and detangling:
About Washing Synthetic and Human hair
Washing and detangling (works for detangling curls too)
Washing and storing
washing video tutorial
-Detangling (also, see above in washing and detangling):
Detangling with silicone spray
Homemade wig detangler
Detangling a long wig
detangling a curly wig
Detangling and preventing further tangling in a long wig
Detangling video tutorail
De-frizzing a wig
De-frizzing a wig 2
This is a WONDERFUL METHOD to salvage a ruined wig. You can use it on cheap wigs to take out the shininess, or on seriously damaged/tangled wigs.
This is the same method, only shown with an extremely long wig
-Storing:
I keep my most styled wigs pinned to a few styrofoam mannequin heads, this way all my hard work is not ruined by storage.
You can keep wigs with minimal styling in their original plastic bags. For spiky/teased wigs, I keep them turned inside-out in the bags. This way they don’t flatten.
If you have a huge wig collection and no space to store them (like me), I would advise getting a shoe hanger rack :)
Note: Synthetic Vs. Human hair wigs:
Synthetic hair will hold its original style, even if it gets rained on or dunked in cold water
it is easy to take care of and maintain
It is significantly cheaper than human hair wigs
they come in a variety of colors
it is really difficult to tell the difference
It cannot be styled in the same way as human hair
Human Hair can by easily styled with anything
they can be dyed and bleached
they have to be re-styled much more
they are extremely expensive
available in a limited range of colors
More references:
-my FAQ (mostly for homestuck cosplay help, also a bit of bellydance)
-This is a HUGE glossary of terms and definitions all about wigs. It’s very informative, and I advise looking it over!
-cosplaytutorial: a wonderful master list of many many cosplay tutorials.
-cosplay.com’s FAQ.
-Godsavethequeen’s cosplay tutorials
-cosplayresources, a good cosplay help blog
-an SFX makeup masterpost
-a great sewing tutorial site
-my “Where to Buy Wigs For Every Single Homestuck Character“ master list
-homestuckcosplayhelp, a great blog that is my go-to when starting a new homestuck cosplay
Whew! Glad that’s finally done. It only took me three months…
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