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[iamownerofme]

Hi GPODers! It’s officially summer in the Northern Hemisphere, but it’s not too late to celebrate some spectacular spring displays! Today we’re exploring the exciting blooms and bright foliage of Fran Watson’s sensational spring garden on Martha’s Vineyard, an island off the coast of Massachusetts. Fran has shared her lush garden with us several times over the years (Fran’s Island Garden, Gardening on Martha’s Vineyard, and Jewels of Fall in Fran’s Garden) but most recently has been sharing photos from the incredible public gardens she visits on her travels (Fort Worth Botanic Garden and United States Botanic Garden in D.C.). This update brings us back to New England to see how her home garden is looking this year. Hi, my name is Fran Watson. I have submitted my garden several times, and also gardens we visit in our travels. I really enjoy looking at GPOD during my breakfast time. In fact, I never miss it! I took these photos on June 6, the end of spring here in coastal Massachusetts. The past month has been cool more than warm. I think that helps keep blooms looking good for a longer time. My gardening challenges are deer, wild turkeys, and shade. I feel that I have found plants that work for variety, texture, and color in spite of the challenges. As you scroll through these photos, you’ll quickly notice two key elements in Fran’s spring designs: bright, lush foliage and a diverse collection of pink blooms. Right away, these light pink lupines are scene stealing, but the gorgeous array of diverse foliage shapes and textures are a strong second billing. The tall green stalks are an herb, but I don’t know the name of it. I like it for its architectural presence. More pink blooms: this time, sweet columbine flowers looking like little alien spacecrafts floating down to earth. As this was early in June, Fran’s peonies were still very perky. I love the subtle blush of pink on this mostly white variety. Here’s another pairing of pretty pink blossoms: hardy geranium crawling out from under a large spirea covered in fuzzy blooms. While Fran’s flowers are a delight, her foliage is also sublime in spring. Some plants provide green interest before their summer blooms appear, while others—like the deep burgundy Japanese maple and blue hosta—add another element of color. Another great shot showcasing the diversity in foliage Fran has achieved This photo shows my two favorite ferns: the autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora, Zones 5–9) and the red lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina ‘Lady in Red’, Zones 2–9). Thank you so much for sharing this sampling of your spring garden with us, Fran! Whether you’re showing us your gorgeous plants or taking us along on your public garden visits, it’s always marvelous to see these spaces through your eyes and lens. Before your camera roll gets inundated with summer photos, think about sharing some of your spring snaps with Garden Photo of the Day! Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.   We want to see YOUR garden! Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit! To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden. Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening! Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here Fine Gardening Recommended Products Lee Valley Garden Knife Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. These knives have a trowel-like blade with a sharp edge to let you use the same tool for digging, planting and cutting. The blade is sharpened on both sides, with serrations on one edge to help with cutting tough roots or dividing perennials. Deeply stamped markings on the blade (in 1/2" and 5mm increments) help you set the correct planting depth for seeds and bulbs. Razor-Back Potato/Refuse Hook Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Bee Watering Station with Vivid Flower Design Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Thoughtful Combo: You will receive a bee feeder and 30 glass marbles. This thoughtful combo can provide clean water for the bees, you just need to put the marbles into the bee watering station, add water (note: the water level should not exceed the height of the marbles) and hang them in the right place. The round, colored marbles can provide a place for the bees to stand and prevent them from falling into the water, effectively keeping the bees safe. Fine Material: This exquisite bee bath is made of high quality iron material, smooth surface, rust and weather resistant, not easy to fade, sturdy and reliable. Bee cups for garden can well meet the drinking water needs of lovely bees, and it can also provide food for bees, such as sugar water, nectar, etc., attracting more bees to your outdoor area and making your garden full of vitality. Perfect Size: The butterfly watering station has an overall height of 13.4 inches, a bowl diameter of 9.4 inches, and a weight of 0.44 pounds. The bee cup serves the needs of the bees well without plunging them into dangerously deep water or taking up unnecessary space in your garden, and this compact and efficient design makes it a practical addition to any outdoor space. Elegant Design: Our bee watering cups are designed in unique flower shapes with vibrant and realistic colours to attract lovely bees to your garden and patio, bee feeders for outside are not only functional but can also be used as a landscaping element, their vibrant floral patterns enhance the beauty of your garden. Multicolored Decoration: Colorful bee water stations look like flowers in a garden, flower bed or pot and attract bees and butterflies. They can drink or bathe in bee feeders, which are highly decorative and practical. Source link

[iamownerofme]

Hi GPODers! Backyards are often where we spend time most of our time outdoors, which means it’s crucial to create a space that is inviting and comfortable. However, that doesn’t mean our front yards are less important or not deserving of special attention. Today’s submission is a fabulous example of the impact an interesting front garden has. After getting her back gardens to a place she was happy with, Brenda Kee in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada, began work on the lush front landscape we see today. Though Brenda was starting off with more than bare dirt, unlike the submission we saw from Marty yesterday (Marty’s Garden from Scratch), the space was still far from planting ready. Over the years, she has created enchanting front beds of mostly shade plants under mature maple trees, and in the process created a landscape that must delight visitors and anyone passing by. My garden is in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada—Zone 5b. When we purchased the house 11 years ago, the front yard had no lawn except for the front strip on either side of the sidewalk and was made up of mature maple trees, periwinkle, euonymus, yews, hostas, and some large rocks. I was content to let it be while I concentrated on creating the gardens in the backyard. Eventually, I got around to focusing on the front yard, and the first step was to reduce the amount of periwinkle and get rid of the grass that had crept into it. I still have some patches of periwinkle and am working on digging up the rest of it. The newly opened areas gave me space to add some pathways along with lots of new shrubs, perennials, and bulbs. This garden faces north and gets morning sun, but by midafternoon it’s mostly a shade garden. I have added more hostas along with other perennials and shrubs, some in darker purples, white, and chartreuse tones to add some interest and contrast to all the greens. Happy gardening everyone.Brenda Kee This picture shows about ¾ of the front garden as viewed from the sidewalk. This photo shows the rest of the front garden that is to the right of the first picture. It contains many hostas, a perennial geranium, Concorde barberry (Berberis thunbergii ‘Concorde’, Zones 4–8), All Gold Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘All Gold’, Zones 4–9), woolly thyme (Thymus pseudolanuginosus, Zones 5–8), and Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum biflorum, Zones 3–8). The left side of the front garden has more hostas, with dark-leaved heucheras and Dark Towers penstemon (Penstemon ‘Dark Towers’, Zones 3–8), Herman’s Pride lamiastrum (Lamiastrum galeobdolon ‘Hermann’s Pride’, Zones 4–8), a bleeding heart, nepeta, Concorde barberry, alliums, and purple irises; the white flowering shrub is a Dwarf Nikko deutzia (Deutzia gracilis ‘Nikko’, Zones 5–8). This pathway is near the front of the house. In the back there are Yews on either side of a Rose Glow barberry (Berberis thunbergii ‘Rose Glow’, Zones 4–8) and Black Lace elderberry (Sambucus nigra ‘Eva’, Zones 4–7). The other plants are several variegated euonymus, Silver Scrolls heuchera (Heuchera ‘Silver Scrolls’, Zones 4–9), hostas, All Gold Japanese forest grass, Palace Purple heuchera (Heuchera micrantha var. diversifolia ‘Palace Purple’, Zones 4–9), and a Catching Fire heucherella (Heucherella ‘Catching Fire’, Zones 4–9). Here is a close-up of the plants at the end of the pathway. There are Japanese painted ferns (Athyrium niponicum var. pictum, Zones 3–8) under the yew behind the All Gold Japanese forest grass. The Catching Fire heucherella is in front, underplanted with creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum, Zones 4–8). The other side of the pathway features a variegated euonymus, Spilled Wine weigela (Weigela florida ‘Bokraspiwi’, Zones 4–8), Emerald Blue creeping phlox (Phlox subulata ‘Emerald Blue’, Zones 2–9), Double Play Gold spirea (Spiraea japonica ‘Yan’, Zones 3–8), blue fescue (Festuca glauca, Zones 4–9), and a self-seeded brunnera (Brunnera macrophylla, Zones 4–8), with Purple Sensation allium (Allium ‘Purple Sensation’, Zones 4–9) in the mix. A view from my front window Thank you so much for sharing your incredible front garden with us, Brenda! While back gardens are often our own private oasis, front gardens are the gifts we share with our neighbors and anyone lucky enough to find themselves passing by. What a beautiful gift you’ve given! How is your front garden looking this growing season? Have you recently given it more attention, or is it already the talk of the town for yet another year? Give your front garden space a little extra love this year by sharing photos with Garden Photo of the Day! Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.   We want to see YOUR garden! Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit! To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden. Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening! Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here Fine Gardening Recommended Products Razor-Back Potato/Refuse Hook Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Spear & Jackson 4930FZ Razorsharp Telescopic Tree Pruner Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Telescopic tree pruner with SK5 carbon steel blade which stays sharper for longer. Variable length telescopic handle extends up to 92 Inch (2340mm). Lopper for cutting branches up to 1.2" (30mm). 13 inch (330mm) saw is ideal for cutting thicker branches. Supplied with a long cord and pull-action handle. Part of the Razorsharp Advantage collection, the obvious choice for gardeners who demand and expect precise, powerful performance. "Grow Your Own" Great British Growing 2020 Award Winners. SHOWA Atlas 370B Nitrile Palm Coating Gloves, Black, Medium (Pack of 12 Pairs) Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Lightweight and close-fitting for excellent dexterity. Machine washable. Breathable back of hand to reduce perspiration. Designed for easy movement and continuous wear. Ideal for aerospace, assembly, automotive, construction, final fix, gardening, manufacturing, operating machinery, packaging, precision handling, tiling, warehousing. Source link

[iamownerofme]

Home-raised chickens eggs stay fresh for longer time when you don’t wash them. But who wants to store an egg covered with dirt? Worse part is refrigerating them. Not just dirty eggs, chickens pooping in their nesting boxes results in potential health issues and you’ve got to do extra cleaning chores. Fortunately, with the right strategies, you can discourage chickens from pooping in nesting boxes and maintain a clean, hygienic environment for your flock. To keep your eggs clean, start by maintaining spotless nesting boxes. Fresh bedding like straw or pine shavings should be changed regularly to prevent droppings from soiling the eggs. Also, make sure your hens aren’t sleeping in the boxes overnight — that’s when most of the mess happens. Collect eggs at least once or twice a day to minimize the chances of dirt build-up or broken shells. If an egg does get a little dirty, use a dry cloth or gentle brush to wipe it clean instead of washing. This way, the natural protective bloom stays intact, and your eggs can stay fresh longer without refrigeration. Why Do Chickens Poop in Nesting Boxes? Understanding why chickens poop in nesting boxes is the first step toward solving the problem. Chickens don’t naturally intend to soil their laying areas, but certain conditions or habits can lead to this behaviour. Let’s examine the most common causes: Sleeping in Nesting Boxes Chickens typically produce the majority of their droppings at night while roosting. If they choose to sleep in nesting boxes instead of roosts, the boxes become their night-time bathroom. This is especially common among younger pullets who haven’t yet learned proper roosting habits or in flocks where dominant birds monopolize the roosts, forcing subordinate hens to seek alternative sleeping spots. Lack of Adequate Roosting Space Insufficient or poorly designed roosts can make chickens uncomfortable to perch, pushing them toward the cozy confines of nesting boxes. Roosts that are too narrow, too high, or too close together can discourage proper use. Overcrowded or Dirty Coop A cramped or unclean coop can lead chickens to seek out nesting boxes as a “cleaner” alternative to soiled roosts or flooring. Overcrowding exacerbates this issue, as chickens compete for space. Inadequate Lighting or Timing Chickens need a balance of light and dark to regulate their laying and sleeping cycles. If the coop is too bright at night, chickens may stay active and use nesting boxes for lounging or sleeping, increasing the chance of droppings. Must read: What Should Be Inside a Chicken Coop? Young or Untrained Chickens Pullets new to laying may not yet understand that nesting boxes are for egg-laying only. They might treat the boxes as a general-purpose area for resting or socializing. Health Issues or Stress Occasionally, health problems or stress (from predators, extreme weather, or flock bullying) can cause chickens to behave abnormally, including pooping in nesting boxes. By identifying the root cause in your flock, you can tailor your approach to address the issue effectively. Below, we’ll dive into actionable solutions to prevent chickens from pooping in nesting boxes. Also Read: How to Treat Bumblefoot in Chickens Naturally? How to Stop Chickens from Pooping in Nesting Boxes? To keep nesting boxes clean, you’ll need a combination of coop management, behavioural training, and environmental adjustments. Here are detailed strategies to implement: 1. Encourage Proper Roosting Behavior Since most droppings occur at night, ensuring chickens sleep on roosts rather than in nesting boxes is critical. Here’s how to promote proper roosting: Provide Adequate Roost SpaceEach chicken needs about 8–12 inches of roost space, depending on the breed. For a flock of 10 chickens, provide at least 80–120 inches of total roost length. Use sturdy, rounded perches (1.5–2 inches in diameter) to ensure comfort. Avoid flat boards, as they’re less appealing for gripping. Position Roosts CorrectlyPlace roosts higher than nesting boxes, as chickens instinctively seek the highest perch to sleep. A roost height of 2–4 feet off the ground is ideal, with a slight angle or ladder-style setup for easy access. Ensure roosts are stable and free from sharp edges. Block Nesting Boxes at NightPhysically prevent chickens from accessing nesting boxes after dusk. Use a removable board, curtain, or sliding panel to cover the boxes in the evening, reopening them in the morning. This trains chickens to sleep on roosts and reserves nesting boxes for laying. Manually Move ChickensFor persistent offenders, check the coop after dark and gently move any chickens sleeping in nesting boxes to the roosts. Repeat this for a few nights to reinforce the habit. Be calm and quiet to avoid stressing the flock. 2. Optimize Nesting Box Design and Placement The design and placement of nesting boxes can influence whether chickens misuse them. Consider these adjustments: Maintain the Right Number of BoxesProvide one nesting box for every 4–5 hens. For a flock of 20 chickens, 4–5 boxes are sufficient. Too many boxes can encourage lounging, while too few can lead to competition and stress. Ensure Proper Box SizeNesting boxes should be cozy but not overly spacious. A standard size is 12x12x12 inches for medium breeds, slightly larger for bigger breeds like Orpingtons. Boxes that are too large may invite multiple hens to crowd in, increasing the likelihood of droppings. Add Comfortable BeddingUse soft, clean bedding like straw, wood shavings, or hemp to make nesting boxes inviting for laying but less appealing for sleeping. Avoid materials like sand, which can feel too firm. Change bedding regularly to keep boxes hygienic. Place Boxes in a Quiet, Dark AreaPosition nesting boxes in a low-traffic, dimly lit corner of the coop to encourage laying and discourage lounging. If boxes are near windows or bright lights, chickens may use them as a resting spot. Install Slanted RoofsAdd a slanted roof or board above nesting boxes to prevent chickens from perching on top, which can lead to droppings falling into the boxes below. A 45-degree angle works well to deter perching. Check this: How to Introduce New Chickens to a Flock? 3. Maintain a Clean and Spacious Coop A clean, well-maintained coop reduces the likelihood of chickens seeking out nesting boxes as an alternative space. Follow these tips: Clean the Coop RegularlyRemove droppings, soiled bedding, and debris from the coop floor and roosts at least weekly. A deep litter system can help manage waste, but ensure it’s turned and refreshed periodically to prevent ammonia buildup. Provide Enough SpaceEach chicken needs 3–4 square feet of indoor coop space and 8–10 square feet in an outdoor run. Overcrowding can push chickens into nesting boxes for refuge. For a flock of 10, aim for a 30–40 square foot coop and an 80–100 square foot run. Use Dropping BoardsInstall removable dropping boards or trays beneath roosts to catch nighttime droppings. Scrape them daily to keep the coop floor clean, reducing the temptation for chickens to seek cleaner nesting boxes. 4. Train Young or New Chickens Pullet or new flock members may need guidance to use nesting boxes correctly. Here’s how to train them: Introduce Fake EggsPlace ceramic or wooden eggs in nesting boxes to signal that they’re for laying. This encourages hens to use the boxes for their intended purpose rather than as a sleeping or lounging spot. Limit Access During Non-Laying HoursIf young hens are loafing in nesting boxes during the day, gently shoo them out or temporarily block access until they’re ready to lay. This reinforces that boxes are for egg-laying only. Observe and RedirectSpend time watching your flock to identify which hens are misusing nesting boxes. Redirect their behavior by encouraging them to explore the run or engage in dust bathing during non-laying hours. 5. Manage Light and Environmental Factors Lighting and environmental conditions play a role in chicken behavior. Make these adjustments: Control Coop LightingProvide 14–16 hours of light daily for optimal laying, but ensure the coop is dark at night. Use a timer to regulate artificial lighting, and cover windows or use blackout curtains to prevent excess light that might keep chickens active in nesting boxes. Improve VentilationPoor air quality can stress chickens, leading to abnormal behavior. Ensure the coop has adequate ventilation (e.g., vents or windows) without drafts to keep the environment comfortable. Minimize StressReduce stressors like predator threats, extreme temperatures, or flock bullying. Secure the coop against predators, provide shade and water in hot weather, and introduce new chickens gradually to prevent aggression. 6. Monitor Flock Health If the above strategies don’t resolve the issue, consider health-related causes: Check for Parasites or IllnessMites, lice, or internal parasites can cause discomfort, leading chickens to avoid roosts. Inspect your flock and coop for signs of pests, and consult a veterinarian if you suspect illness. Address Bullying or Pecking Order IssuesDominant hens may force subordinate ones into nesting boxes. Provide multiple feed and water stations, add hiding spots in the run, and consider separating aggressive birds temporarily. Troubleshooting Persistent Problems If chickens continue to poop in nesting boxes despite your efforts, try these advanced tactics: Roll-away boxes have a slanted floor that allows eggs to roll into a separate compartment, keeping them clean even if droppings occur. These boxes also discourage lingering, as the slanted surface is less comfortable for sleeping. Temporarily place mildly unpleasant (but safe) objects in nesting boxes, like a spiky mat or crumpled aluminum foil, to discourage chickens from entering except to lay. Remove deterrents once the habit is broken. Spend a day observing your flock to pinpoint specific culprits or triggers. Video cameras can help monitor nighttime behavior if you can’t be present. Conclusion Preventing chickens from pooping in nesting boxes requires a mix of coop design, flock management, and behavioural training. By providing comfortable roosts, optimizing nesting box placement, maintaining a clean coop, and addressing health or stress issues, you can create an environment where chickens lay eggs in clean, poop-free boxes. Consistency is key—implement these strategies patiently, and soon you’ll enjoy cleaner eggs and a healthier flock. Khaja Moinuddin, a computer science graduate, finds joy in gardening and homesteading. Join him on this blog as he shares his experiences in homesteading, gardening, and composting Source link

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There’s no need to mark your calendar—the Crate & Barrel Fourth of July sale is already underway. With warehouse items up to 60 percent off, you can save on big ticket items like sectional sofas and dining room tables as well as smaller pieces like glassware and throw pillows. If your outdoor oasis needs a refresh, weather-resistant furniture and decor are also up to 50 percent off for a limited time (and we have a separate article just for those deals).These will be some of their deepest markdowns until Black Friday rolls around, so if you’re eyeing a new sectional or hoping to score a coveted piece from one of the brand's designer collaborations, it’s now or November. While a clearance section can be a bit overwhelming to parse through, we saved you the ocular headache with a curated selection of our favorites below. And if you’re still feeling underwater, Crate & Barrel offers free design services to help you map out your interiors and build your perfect space with the help of interiors experts.Our top picks from the Crate & Barrel Fourth of July sale:Best Sectional Sofa Deal: Crate & Barrel Monterey Modular Sectional Sofa $5,897 $5,012Best Decor Deal: Alvarez Wool Area Rug, $2,099 $1,759Outdoor Furniture Deal Batten Teak Outdoor Loveseat, $4,156 $3,740An On-Sale Designer Collab: Onirique Metal Table Lamp by Athena Calderone, $599 $479Storage Steal: Blake 68" Light Brown Teak and Rattan Storage Media Console, $1,699 $1,189Crate & Barrel Monterey Modular 3-Piece L-Shaped Sectional SofaThis Independence Day you can save up to 40 percent off furniture items, including this L-shaped sectional sofa. There are more than 200 customizable options, but the Night upholstery (a dark blue chenille) is in stock and marked down for more than $800 off right now. At nearly 11 feet wide, this AD editor-approved pick is a commanding piece, making it the perfect focal point for an expansive living room.Crate & Barrel Alvarez Wool Area RugThe online exclusive Alvarez rug is a Crate & Barrel bestseller going back 10 years. Customers love this medium-pile and 100% wool rug for its handwoven artisan detail and impressionist take on traditional design. We love that it comes in six sizes—including a runner—and that the wool fabric holds up after years of use.Crate & Barrel Batten Teak Outdoor LoveseatThis modern and modular outdoor option comes in both a love seat and a three-seater-sofa sizing to best suit your back patio and 10 fabric choices. Uncovered, the untreated natural teak will patina to a silvery gray for a more aged wash while still maintaining its modern structure. Sunbrella upholstery is also available and marked down, but you’ll need to wait a bit longer for delivery.Crate & Barrel Weave Natural Floor LampThis floor lamp achieves modern, earthy mood lighting in one fell swoop. At a little under four feet, it elongates a dark corner without towering, and it spreads a warm light that creates a cozy, welcoming atmosphere for reading, relaxing, or sharing drinks without harsh overhead lighting or a spindly, corner-lurking, florescent presence.Crate & Barrel Blake 2-Door Storage CabinetIf you nabbed the Blake 2-Door Storage Cabinet during Crate & Barrel’s Memorial Day Sale and still need more room, consider the coordinating media console. The rattan frame and woven detailing on the doors keeps such a large piece feeling airy and integrated so it’s not hulking over other decor and dominating the space. You can even expand the collection by flanking it with two taller storage cabinets, which are also marked down.Onirique Table Lamp by Athena CalderoneWe highly recommend snagging the Onirique lamp designed by Athena Calderone while it's still on sale. If you're trying to build an enviable entryway, pair it with the Memini burl frame mirror from the designer's capsule, which we also spotted at a discount.Harpen Metal Outdoor Dining Arm Chair by Jake ArnoldWe, of course, scoured the sale for Jake Arnold’s collab pieces on discount and unearthed these fanciful, wrought-iron dining chairs for half off, which means that’s an extra Benjamin to spend on crafting the outdoor dinner party of your dreams—with your guests seated in these very chairs.Breville Barista Express Espresso MachineThis highly rated espresso machine (and wedding registry essential) earns you 20% back in reward dollars. Our contributor Terri Williams swears by it: “Though it might look complicated, it’s not so much harder to operate than a regular drip coffee maker��. The intelligent dosing feature automatically calculates and adjusts the amount of ground coffee based on your last grind and tamp, and the precision measurement feature autocorrects your next setup, so you don’t have to do the guesswork of manually measuring your grounds.” Another bonus: It looks good on your countertop.Le Creuset Signature Enameled Cast Iron Dutch OvenWhile we’re talking kitchen necessities, the Le Creuset dutch oven is $175 off at Crate and Barrel’s Fourth of July Sale, which means you can spend the rest of summer making delicious pea pastas and using this as a vessel for your lightly dressed summer salads. We recommend grabbing this deal while your favorite color’s in stock—these tend to fly off the shelves.Crate & Barrel Edge Red Wine GlassEntertainment pieces, like these from the Edge Collection, are up to 50% off. You can finally replace all your broken wine glasses with more to inevitably break, only it won’t feel so precious with these coming in at $10 a piece—but your guests would never know. That’s the ticket: elevated-seeming glassware that’s actually dirt cheap.Crate & Barrel Organic Laundered Linen Throw PillowA linen pillow gives exactly the sort of sunny, laid-back look we want for summer. These indoor-outdoor pillows invite you to sit back, relax, enjoy the sunshine and a tall glass of lemonade (from the aforementioned 50% off glassware collection).Wills Swivel Chair by Brigette RomanekBrigette Romanek does it again with this swivel accent chair. Coming in both sage and hazelnut chenille, this is the perfect piece for creating a cozy reading nook or laid-back living room environment. Plus don’t we think better after we spin around a bit?Crate & Barrel Walker Metal Outdoor Dining Table SetHere's an outdoor dining set to enjoy al fresco mealtime throughout the rest of summer. The seats have extra cushioning so dinner conversations can continue comfortably under the stars and there's an extended version also on sale should you be looking to host larger gatherings.Crate & Barrel Leland Rattan Beverage TubLeveling up your outdoor hosting game is easy with this rattan tub that earns some major style points and keeps drinks ice cold. It'll surely be a nice upgrade from the tired cooler you've been using since your college days. Source link

[iamownerofme]

Cats aren’t always purrfect. They love to dig, scratch fence posts, and may even go to the bathroom in your precious flowerbeds. If you have a not-so-fabulous feline friend visiting your garden, here are a few ideas on how to keep cats out of your yard. I want to start this article off by saying I do have a cat. Originally a stray, Magic is a mischievous and handsome little fellow. Every time he hears me talking, he wants attention. He loves heights, jumping places he shouldn’t be, and he knows how to have a good time. While I love the guy, I will say that he does affect my garden. He likes to dig in my herb garden to sleep, and he’s the reason I rehomed all my lilies. Just a hint of the pollen could be bad for the little guy. However, he does so much good for me in the garden. Not only is he the world’s best rat killer, but he also patrols the property and helps to deter other cats. And most importantly, I love his company while I’m puttering away in the garden. His presence alone does wonders for my mental health, inside or outside! But I understand that they’re not always welcome, especially when they get up to no good in your flower beds. That being said, keep reading for tips to keep cats out of your yard naturally. The man, the myth, the legend…Magic! Why Cats Can Be a Nuisance I can certainly understand why you would want to know how to keep cats out of your yard. After all, it’s not all sun lounging and rat hunting. Cats tend to dig in garden beds. They don’t know the difference between a vegetable bed and an outdoor litter box. Male cats also like to mark their territory. It can be annoying to have a neighbour’s cat or stray periodically come in and spray your favourite plants. Stinky! Additionally, cats are natural hunters. They could even try to catch beautiful songbirds in the garden. They may even be a terror to chickens if you have some. Cats like to dig in garden beds and will even use them as a litterbox. How to Keep Cats Out of Your Yard Cats are good climbers and jumpers, so it can be difficult to keep them out when they’re not wanted. Luckily, there are a few harmless and natural ways to keep stray cats out of your yard. Cover Soil First and foremost, cats love squishy and soft soil. Whether they’re trying to lounge or go to the bathroom, the goal is to make your garden beds someplace they wouldn’t want to hang out. Since cats don’t like any pokey surfaces, cover the soil with things to make it less appealing. The goal is to make it look like the opposite of a litterbox. Here are some ideas: Chicken wire: use metal or plastic chicken wire to cover your beds. Most plants can still grow through, but it stops the cats from digging. River rocks: larger rocks, uneven rocks are better, but pebbles should also help. Eggs shells: every time you crack an egg, sprinkle the egg shells in your garden beds. Sharp twigs: take cuttings from holly leaves, rose bushes, blackberries, barberry bushes, and more pokey plants and spread them across your garden. Thick mulch: a thick and pokey mulch also does the trick. Pinecones also work! Short twigs: you can also collect a bunch of smaller-sized twigs while pruning and lay them in bunches in your garden. The bees may enjoy them too! Bamboo skewers: stick bamboo skewers with the pointy side up throughout the garden. Space them close enough that it makes it difficult for a cat to lay down. Make the ground pokey and uncomfortable for cats to walk on. Water Unlike most dogs, most cats don’t like getting wet. Use water to your advantage! Cats hate having wet paws, so if a certain cat likes to patrol your yard at a specific time of day, try watering the lawn and garden then. You can also spray down any areas they like to mark. Oftentimes, cats will mark the same spots, so you can wash their scent away to keep them from returning. If a cat is in the yard and you catch them red-handed, you can grab a super soaker and spray next to the cat. It should scare them off completely. Another alternative, if you’re not at home or in the garden 24/7 like me, is to use motion-activated sprinklers. They will go off at the hint of movement and scare away the feline. Just be sure to pay attention to how often they go off and obey water shortages. Water often enough, and the cats will stay away. Fencing While cats have a thing for climbing things, you can make your fence less accessible to cats. For fences with fence posts, you can tie an additional wire or string across the top. Cats will hesitate to jump up and climb over it. You can also get spikey plastic fence caps. These prevent cats from walking across fences. They are uncomfortable for the cat but not harmful. Finally, grab a tub of Vaseline and spread it across the top of the fence. Cats won’t like the feeling of it under their paws and will hesitate to jump up again. Cats can reach all heights, so fences won’t keep them out. Cat Repellent Plants Just like other harmful pests, you can actually grow certain plants to keep cats out of your yard. Cats have powerful noses and don’t like the smell of some plants. Try planting these: Other scents that cats don’t enjoy include bone meal fertilizer, citrus, coffee grounds, and red wine vinegar. Try spreading your morning coffee grounds and citrus peels in the garden and see if it helps keep the cats at bay. Cats have sensitive noses, so you can use that to your advantage. Cat Repellent Spray Commercial cat repellent for yards tries to mimic the spray of predator urine. That certainly doesn’t sound appealing to me, and I’m never quite sure what ingredients are inside these sprays. I always opt to make something myself whenever I can. Natural cat repellent spray can work just as well! To make your own, mix together the following ingredients in a spray bottle: For full measurements, see the recipe card at the end of the post. Let the mixture steep overnight. Spray the mixture wherever you want to keep cats away. You won’t need a ton! Respray once a week until the cats get the hint and don’t come back. Note, vinegar can be harmful to plants and can even be a weed killer. Be careful where you spray it. This spray is fairly stinky, so only spray outside the house and avoid spraying near open windows. Be careful where you spray your repellent, as it can affect nearby plants as well. Make Peace If all else fails, maybe it’s time to make peace with your new feline friend. Try chatting with your neighbour about their cat and see if they can help keep their cat out of your yard. If they have a tendency to bug birds in the garden, ask if they can wear a bell around their neck. You can also try to create a place in the garden just for the cat. This will attract them to the right spot in the garden and deter them from your precious vegetable and flower gardens. Plant catnip for the cat. You can also create a little sandbox for them next to the catnip to give them a place to hang out and go to the bathroom. With this method, you will likely have to clean up every once in a while. If all else fails, make peace with your new feline friend. FAQ About Keeping Cats Out What attracts cats to my yard? Cats go where their belly goes. If you have songbirds, rodents, or even scrumptious plants like catnip, they may wander into your yard. They may also be attracted to garbage or compost if there is something in there they feel like eating.They’re also attracted to soft dirt to use as a litter box. They also like the scent of other cats, so if you have one, they may come by to visit. How do I stop cats from pooping in my garden? You can use many of these tactics to keep cats from pooping in your garden. Ideally, make the soil inhospitable to them by filling it with plants so there’s nowhere for them to dig or cover it with spikey objects. I have a whole post dedicated to this for more tips. More Posts About Gardening with Pets Natural Cat Repellent Spray Spray this mixture throughout your garden and backyard to deter stray cats from hanging around. Mix together all ingredients and place in a spray bottle.Let the mixture sit overnight.Spray wherever stray cats visit your yard.Reapply once a week until the cats no longer return. A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants. Source link

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This post may contain affiliate links. Read my full disclosure policy. This lemon poppy seed cake is bursting with bright citrus flavor, packed with nutty poppy seeds, and drizzled with a tangy lemon glaze—perfect for sharing (or not!). A variation of my popular lemon pound cake, this lemon poppy seed cake is laced with fresh lemon zest, filled to the brim with nutty, crackly poppy seeds, and drizzled with a bright lemon glaze. The texture is just what you hope for in a homemade cake—ultra-moist and melt-in-your mouth tender. The recipe yields two loaves that stay fresh for days. My grandmother would have called it “company cake” since it’s the perfect treat to have on hand when friends and family come over.  And if you love the lemon and poppy seed combo, don’t miss my lemon poppy seed muffins! (Note: This recipe was originally a Bundt cake, but due to readers having issues with sticking, I updated it in January 2025 to loaf pans, which can be lined with parchment for easy removal.) “The cake was moist and lightly lemony and the proportion of poppy seeds spot on…It’s a GEM.” Vivi What you’ll need to Make Lemon Poppy Seed Cake All-purpose flour – Provides structure and gives the cake its tender crumb. Baking soda – Helps the cake rise by reacting with the acidity in the buttermilk and lemon juice. Salt – Enhances flavor and balances the sweetness. Poppy seeds – Add a nutty flavor and subtle crunch, giving the cake its signature texture. Buttermilk – Keeps the cake moist and tender while adding a slight tang that complements the lemon. Lemon zest – Infuses the cake with bright, aromatic lemon flavor. Fresh lemon juice – Adds a fresh, tangy citrus punch to both the cake and the glaze. Unsalted butter – Provides richness, moisture, and a soft texture. Granulated sugar – Sweetens the cake and the syrup that keeps it extra moist. Large eggs – Bind the ingredients together, add moisture, and contribute to a light, fluffy texture. Confectioners’ sugar – Used in the glaze to create a smooth, sweet finish that enhances the lemon flavor. Jump to the printable recipe for precise measurements Step-by-Step Instructions To begin: In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking soda, salt, and poppy seeds. Whisk well and set aside. In a small bowl, mix the buttermilk, lemon zest and lemon juice. Set aside. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or beaters), combine the butter and sugar. Cream on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, then add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each one. Give the bowl another quick scrape, then, with the mixer on low, beat in a quarter of the flour mixture. Add one-third of the buttermilk mixture. Beat in another quarter of the flour mixture, then a third of the milk mixture. Keep going—another round of flour, then the rest of the milk. Finally, mix in the last of the flour. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, then give it a quick mix to make sure everything is fully combined. Spoon the batter into the prepared pans and smooth the tops. Bake for 55 to 65 minutes, or until the top of the cake is golden and a cake tester comes out clean. Cool the loaves in the pan for ten minutes on a rack. While they cool, make the syrup. Combine the water and granulated sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice. Make the glaze: in a medium bowl, whisk together the confectioners’ sugar and lemon juice until smooth. When the cakes are cool, gradually brush the warm syrup all over the cakes, including the sides, letting it soak in as you go. Finally, spoon the glaze over the top of the cakes, letting it drip down the sides. Let the glaze harden before slicing. The cake will keep nicely for 3 days or frozen (without the glaze) for up to 3 months.  You May Also Like Lemon Poppy Seed Cake This lemon poppy seed cake is just the thing to have on hand for company or a cozy treat—pure sunshine in every slice! Ingredients For the Cake 3 cups all-purpose flour, spooned into measuring cup and leveled-off with a knife ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt ¼ cup poppy seeds 1 cup low-fat buttermilk (see note) Finely grated zest of 3 lemons (about 3 gently packed tablespoons) 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, softened 2¼ cups granulated sugar, plus more for the pan 3 large eggs For the Syrup 2 tablespoons water 2 tablespoons granulated sugar 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice For the Glaze About 1 cup confectioners' sugar 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Instructions Preheat the oven to 350°F and set an oven rack in the middle position. Spray two 8½ x 4½-inch loaf pans with nonstick cooking spray. Line the long sides of the pans with parchment paper “slings” and spray lightly with nonstick cooking spray again. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, salt, and poppy seeds. Set aside. In a small bowl, combine the buttermilk, lemon zest and lemon juice. Set aside. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or beaters), cream the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3-4 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, then beat in the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Scrape down the sides of the bowl again. With the mixer on low speed, beat in one-quarter of the flour mixture, then one-third of the buttermilk mixture. Beat in another quarter of the flour mixture, then another third of the milk mixture. Repeat with another quarter of the flour mixture and the remaining milk mixture. Finally, beat in the remaining flour mixture. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, and give a quick mix with a rubber spatula to make sure all of the ingredients are well incorporated. Spoon the thick batter into the prepared pans and smooth the top with a rubber spatula. Bake for 55 to 65 minutes, or until the top of the cake is golden and a cake tester comes out clean. Cool the cake in the pan for ten minutes on a rack. Set the cakes on a cooling rack, and cool in the pans for 10 minutes. Carefully run a knife along the unlined sides of the pans to loosen the cake from the pan. Using the parchment slings, lift the cakes out of the pans and place onto the rack, leaving the parchment paper in place under the cakes. Let cool for about 1 hour. When the cakes are almost cool, make the syrup. Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice. When the cakes are cool, carefully transfer them to serving platters. Gradually brush the warm syrup all over the cakes, including the sides, letting it soak in as you go. To make the glaze: in a medium bowl, whisk together the confectioners' sugar and lemon juice. Add more confectioners' sugar or lemon juice as necessary to make a thick but pourable glaze (it should be a little thicker than you'd think, about the consistency of molasses or honey). Spoon the glaze over the top of the cake, letting it drip down the sides. Let the cakes sit for about one hour to allow the glaze to set before serving. Note: If you’d like to make your own buttermilk, check out the easy method here. Note: You'll need 3 large lemons for this recipe Freezer-Friendly Instructions: The cake can be frozen (without the glaze) for up to 3 months. After it is completely cooled, double-wrap it securely with aluminum foil or plastic freezer wrap, or place it in heavy-duty freezer bag. Thaw overnight on the countertop before serving. (Add the glaze after the cake is thawed.) Nutrition InformationPowered by Per serving (16 servings) Calories: 369 Fat: 14 g Saturated fat: 8 g Carbohydrates: 59 g Sugar: 40 g Fiber: 1 g Protein: 5 g Sodium: 158 mg Cholesterol: 66 mg This website is written and produced for informational purposes only. I am not a certified nutritionist and the nutritional data on this site has not been evaluated or approved by a nutritionist or the Food and Drug Administration. Nutritional information is offered as a courtesy and should not be construed as a guarantee. The data is calculated through an online nutritional calculator, Edamam.com. Although I do my best to provide accurate nutritional information, these figures should be considered estimates only. Varying factors such as product types or brands purchased, natural fluctuations in fresh produce, and the way ingredients are processed change the effective nutritional information in any given recipe. Furthermore, different online calculators provide different results depending on their own nutrition fact sources and algorithms. To obtain the most accurate nutritional information in a given recipe, you should calculate the nutritional information with the actual ingredients used in your recipe, using your preferred nutrition calculator. See more recipes: Source link

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From the softest sage to the deepest forest hue, green is having a big moment in design these days. “Green is a great color for a room because it evokes a sense of calm, balance and renewal,” says Susan McBarnet, a designer in Charlotte, North Carolina. “It’s often associated with nature, which can help us feel more grounded and less overstimulated.” Take a look at 10 scrumptious green hues Houzz professionals have used on a wide variety of projects and see if any of them are a good match for your home. haywoodmade interiorsSave Photo1. Suffield Green by Farrow & BallDesigner Kelsey Haywood of Haywoodmade Interiors had so much confidence in Suffield Green by Farrow & Ball that she drenched this Chicago sunroom in it. The color covers the walls, the trim and the ceiling.“The way this color plays with the light throughout the day makes it a cheerful and yet very sophisticated green,” Haywood says. “It plays well with neutrals and brass.” The bold move of color drenching paid off. “This is one of my favorite sunrooms that we have done,” Haywood says.Find a local interior designer on HouzzDANIELLA VILLAMIL INTERIORSSave Photo2. Forest Green by Benjamin MooreInterior designer Daniella Villamil used a range of beautiful green paint colors throughout this art-filled Las Vegas condo. The luxe deep green on the kitchen cabinets seen here was one to which she’d given the ultimate testing and endorsement — she’d used it in her own home. “My clients had fallen in love with this color green when they saw photos of my own kitchen,” Villamil says. “They knew they wanted something similar in their own kitchen.” The color complements the palm fronds seen outside the kitchen’s large windows and glass balcony door.Craftsman Design and RenovationSave Photo3. Flora by Benjamin MooreDuring an extensive remodel completed by Craftsman Design and Renovation, homeowners Claudia Thornton and Brian Halpin chose their own paint colors. A wall of north-facing windows in their Portland, Oregon, kitchen floods the room with indirect natural light and inspired the choice of Benjamin Moore’s Flora for the cabinetry. “This color reflects the north light that pours into the kitchen and offers such a calm welcome to the space,” Thornton says. “And the kitchen has a big wall of windows facing north, so the colors never have sunshine on them, but lots of light reflected.” Flora also works beautifully with the original architectural details of the 1916 Craftsman home. “The kitchen is the heart of our home,” Thornton says.Shop for your kitchenJL Caccamo DesignSave Photo4. Saybrook Sage by Benjamin MooreThese Boston-area homeowners wanted to bring historic character and visual interest into their cookie-cutter 1990s Colonial-style home. Designer Jessica Caccamo of JL Caccamo Design set the tone for the kitchen’s palette with Benjamin Moore’s Saybrook Sage. “Saybrook Sage is a color we come back to frequently,” she says. “It’s a warm, soft green that can be a chameleon in any room. Here, we paired it with a neutral backsplash that featured natural variation in color and subtle texture for visual interest. We also love the contrast with the dark countertops.”Konrady & Son Construction, LLCSave PhotoSaybrook Sage also looks great on walls. In this French country bedroom remodeled by Konrady & Son Construction, the color provides soothing comfort. The sage tone plays beautifully off the wood door and mantel.5. Olympic Range by Sherwin-WilliamsThis Seattle remodel incorporated two wide glass walls, so consideration of the light was an important part in choosing the right shade of green for the kitchen. Other factors in the decision were cohesion with the Victorian-era architecture and the rosy glow of the polished fir floors.“That light reflecting off of bright-colored cabinets might have made the room uncomfortably bright, leading us to explore darker color options,” says Malcom Richardson of Board & Vellum. “That hint of rose [from the flooring] is complemented by greens. With this in mind, we selected a rich jewel green that strengthens the home’s Victorian aesthetic and evokes a natural, serene feeling, linking the kitchen to the garden just outside.”Find a local architect6. Green Hydrangea by Benjamin MooreIn the same Victorian-era house seen in the previous photo, interior designer Abbas Rachaman of Board & Vellum knew that continuing the color green into the powder room would help connect the two spaces. However, he was looking to rev it up, and his clients were on board. “We called this powder room ‘The Jewelbox,’ and we wanted to do something special,” the designer says. “It was all up to what would go with the wallpaper. Because we wanted to do something that was a pop and a surprise, we really leaned into the chartreuse. This color truly makes it such a nice surprise.”Shop for your bathroom7. Peale Green by Benjamin MooreMadison Jackson, lead designer at Lee Kimball, knew her Boston-area clients were excited to do something fun and bold in their game room. A saturated color was just the thing to kick it off. “Benjamin Moore’s Peale Green felt like it hit the mark of giving the space a presence that drew you in but still felt cozy and not over the top,” Jackson says. “It paired really well with the contrasting saddle leather tones and the more analogous blue-greens in the rug and pillows.”New to home remodeling? Learn the basicsJL Caccamo DesignSave Photo8. Mediterranean Teal by Benjamin Moore Caccamo selected Benjamin Moore’s Mediterranean Teal for this Tucson, Arizona, reading nook. “We were so happy that our client took the leap of faith to paint the entire primary living space this deep blue-green,” she says. “People often think that a darker or saturated color will make the room dark, but it is rarely the case.” The room gets lots of bright natural Sonoran Desert light. “This color takes a big, cavernous room and makes it feel cozy,” Caccamo says. “It serves as a great backdrop for art, plants and decor.” 9. Yeabridge Green by Farrow & BallMcBarnet, of Wild Child, specializes in playrooms. When she chose Yeabridge Green by Farrow & Ball for this room, she was thinking of the qualities it would offer not only to the young children who live here, but also to their parents. “We loved this fresh, clean, midtone green for our clients’ playroom because it brings a sense of calm to the space,” she says. “It helps the whole family feel more grounded without taking away from the energy and fun of the room. In a space that’s all about creativity, movement and play, green provides a soothing backdrop that supports focus and emotional regulation while still feeling fresh and fun.”See why you should hire a professional who uses Houzz Pro softwareAnn Lowengart InteriorsSave Photo Source link

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When was the last time you cleaned your pillows? We’re talking the actual pillows themselves—not just the pillowcases. If it’s been a while or if you didn’t know you could even clean pillows, your pillows have probably seen better days. Before you run out and spend your hard-earned money on brand new pillows, however, you may want to consider washing your pillows at home. It’s easier than you think and doesn’t require much more time (or effort) than washing any other load of laundry. By having a better understanding of why and  how  you can clean your pillows at home, you can rest your head a little easier at night. Why Clean Your Pillows? You already wash your pillow cases, sheets, comforters, and other bedding (think cleaning your mattress) on a regular basis—and for good reason. Over time, bacteria from sweat, along with things like dust mites, can make your bed a less-than-ideal place to sleep. However, the same bacteria and creepy-crawlies can make their way past your pillowcases and directly into the pillows themselves over time. When you take the time to consider what comes into contact with your pillows and pillowcases, it’s easy to see why they should be cleaned regularly. Chemicals from hair products, makeup, and saliva (if you’re a drooler!) can all lead to a breeding ground of bacteria within your pillow. By taking the time to thoroughly clean your pillows on a regular basis, you can cut down on this bacteria—and of course, enjoy the scent of freshly laundered bedding when you rest your head at night. In addition to getting rid of bacteria and creepy-crawlies, cleaning your pillows can also help to restore the “fluff” to pillows that have otherwise become dull over time. This could result in a better night’s sleep for you and fewer mornings waking up with neck or back pain. How often should you clean your pillows? It really depends on how quickly they become soiled. In most cases, washing them once every 2-4 weeks is fine, but some may prefer to wash them just as often as the rest of their bedding. Ultimately, it’s about what makes you feel the most comfortable. Signs Your Pillows Need To Be Cleaned First of all, if you’ve never cleaned your pillows or if it’s been more than a few months since you’ve done so, your pillows almost definitely need to be cleaned. Some other possible signs that your pillows are in need of a good washing include: lack of “fluff” or support for your head and neck frequent acne breakouts or blemishes waking up with a stuffy or runny nose noticeable stains or spots on your pillows If you go through the process of washing/cleaning your pillows (as described in detail below) and are still experiencing these issues, please note that it may be time to simply replace your pillows (especially if it’s been more than a few years since you bought them and you sleep on them daily). How to Clean Your Pillows So, where do you begin when it comes time to clean your pillows? The process is easier than you might think. Just keep in mind that different steps may need to be followed for different types of pillows. Cotton and down pillows are still among the most common, but memory foam is becoming increasingly popular as well. We have outlined the washing and drying steps for each type of pillow below, so be sure to follow the specific process for your pillow type(s). Washing Pillow Cases Start by removing any pillow cases that may be covering the pillows themselves. Check the tags to find out more about their specific care instructions. For common materials, such as polyester and cotton, you may be able to wash your pillowcases in the same load of laundry where you wash the pillows themselves. For more delicate materials, however, you may need to hand wash them or wash them on a delicate cycle. Before you wash your pillow cases, give them a quick check for any stains that may require use of a stain-removing product prior to being washed. This is more common for people who may fall asleep with eye makeup on, as cosmetics like mascara and eye-liner are notoriously difficult to remove from many fabrics. Washing Cotton and Down Pillows Cotton and down pillows are the easiest to clean, as they can generally be tossed into your washing machine like any other laundry. The key to cleaning pillows in your washing machine is to wash at least two at a time, as this will help better balance the load and will thus reduce any additional wear and tear on your pillows. This is especially true if you have a washing machine with an agitator (as most top-loaders have). Once you’ve added your laundry detergent, you’ll generally want to wash your pillows on a “bulky” or “heavy” cycle. Check your washing machine for any setting that is designed for heavier items. Some washing machines even have a special “bedding” option, but if yours doesn’t, you can use your standard setting. Drying Cotton and Down Pillows Once your pillows have completed their wash cycle, it’s time to dry them. How you dry your pillows is extremely important; for down pillows, you’ll want to make sure to avoid using any heat. Use an air-dry or fluff setting instead. For cotton and synthetic pillows, a low-heat setting will be just fine. You can help to cut down on the drying time of your pillows by adding a couple of clean tennis balls to the dryer. This will not only help them dry faster, but will have the added benefit of fluffing your pillows as well! You may need to run your pillows through the dryer for a couple of cycles before they’ll be completely dry. Once they are, however, all you need to do is put your clean pillow cases back on and enjoy your fresh, like-new pillows! What About Memory Foam Pillows? Memory foam pillows will require a little more care to clean. Specifically, they’ll need to be hand washed and air dried. The best way to do this is to fill a bucket with warm water and some of your favorite laundry detergent. From there, dunk your pillow in the water and gently massage/squeeze it to wash it. From there, you’ll want to rinse the pillow thoroughly with warm water to remove excess soap and suds. Once your memory foam pillow is nice and clean, gently wring it to remove as much water as possible. From there, it should be set out to dry (ideally in the sun for faster drying). This process can take quite awhile, especially when you consider that memory foam is made of a sponge-like material. Still, your patience will pay off when you have a nice and clean pillow that has retained its shape and comfort. Can a Professional Cleaning Service Help? Taking the time to clean your pillows regularly can provide a number of health and wellness benefits, and is a lot cheaper than replacing your pillows when they become soiled. Still, washing pillows can be time-consuming, especially when you have enough laundry to worry about as it is. This is where having a professional cleaning service can make all the difference. By having a professional cleaner handle other aspects of your household chores, such as laundry and sweeping, you can free up more time to tackle things like pillow cleaning while still having plenty of time to do more of the things you enjoy. Maid Sailors offers a wide range of cleaning services in New York City and the surrounding areas. Contact us today to find out more about the specific services we offer and book your first cleaning with us. 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Apart from the bedroom, the backyard is a deeply personal space for gardeners—a place where you sip your evening coffee, unwind, and connect with nature. But nothing ruins that peaceful vibe faster than feeling exposed to prying eyes or noisy neighbours. Whether you’re dealing with close-by houses, open fences, or just want to define your own quiet corner, creating privacy in your backyard, you don’t have to spend a fortune to do it. With a little creativity, some plants, and a few DIY tricks, you can turn your outdoor space into a secluded haven that’s all your own. Privacy isn’t just about blocking views—it’s about creating comfort. When you know you’re not being watched, you can truly relax, enjoy your garden, or entertain guests without distractions. A well-planned private corner can even make a small yard feel like a personal getaway. Whether you’re working with a tiny patio or a sprawling lawn, there are budget-friendly ways to add that sense of seclusion. From fast-growing plants to repurposed materials, small tweaks can transform your space into a cozy, hidden gem where you’ll love to spend time every day. Below listed are six inexpensive backyard privacy ideas that are easy to implement, environmentally friendly, and customizable to suit your style and space. 6 Low Budget Backyard Privacy Ideas Low budget backyard privacy ideas are all about getting creative with simple, affordable solutions. Think of everyday items—like old pallets, hanging baskets, or even repurposed fabric—as tools to block views and define your space. Instead of expensive fences, you can use living walls, layered plants, or DIY screens to carve out quiet zones. With a mix of texture, height, and placement, even the smallest backyard can feel tucked away and inviting—without costing much at all. @garden___designs 1. Plant a Living Privacy Screen One of the most affordable and visually appealing ways to create backyard privacy is by using plants as a living screen. Trees, shrubs, and tall grasses not only provide a natural barrier but also enhance the beauty of your landscape. Unlike traditional fences, plants grow over time, offering increasing privacy while blending seamlessly with your outdoor environment. Budget-Friendly Plant Options To keep costs down, opt for fast-growing, low-maintenance plants that thrive in your climate. Some excellent choices include: Bamboo: Non-invasive clumping bamboo varieties, like Fargesia, grow quickly and create a dense screen. Purchase smaller plants to save money, as they’ll fill out within a few years. Arborvitae: These evergreen shrubs are affordable and provide year-round privacy. Look for sales at local nurseries or consider buying in bulk. Privet Hedges: Fast-growing and easy to maintain, privet shrubs are a classic choice for privacy hedges. They’re often available at low prices in garden centers. Ornamental Grasses: Tall grasses like miscanthus or pampas grass add texture and height while being budget-friendly and drought-tolerant. Implementation Tips Plan Your Layout: Space plants according to their mature size to avoid overcrowding. For faster results, stagger plants in a zigzag pattern to create a fuller screen. Start Small: Younger plants are significantly cheaper than mature ones. With proper care, they’ll grow into a robust privacy barrier within a few seasons. Use Mulch: Apply a layer of mulch around the base of your plants to retain moisture and reduce weed growth, saving you time and money on maintenance. Propagate for Free: If you have access to a friend’s garden, ask for cuttings or divisions of plants like bamboo or grasses to propagate your own. Cost-Saving Hack Check local community plant swaps, online marketplaces, or “free” listings on platforms like Craigslist for discounted or free plants. You can also visit garden centers at the end of the season for clearance sales. 2. Install a DIY Lattice or Trellis Screen Lattice panels or trellises are inexpensive, lightweight, and easy to customize, making them a fantastic option for low-budget privacy. These structures can stand alone or be combined with climbing plants for a lush, natural look. Available at most home improvement stores, lattice panels typically cost between $10 and $30 each, depending on size and material. How to Build a Lattice Screen? Materials Needed: Lattice panels (wood or vinyl), wooden posts, concrete mix (for securing posts), screws, and optional paint or stain. Steps: Measure your backyard to determine how many panels you’ll need. Dig post holes about 2 feet deep and set wooden posts in concrete for stability. Attach lattice panels to the posts using screws or brackets. Paint or stain the lattice to match your backyard aesthetic or leave it natural for a rustic look. Optionally, plant climbing vines like clematis, morning glory, or ivy at the base to grow over the lattice for added privacy. Customization Ideas Add Height: Stack two lattice panels vertically for taller screens. Create Patterns: Cut lattice into unique shapes or angles for a modern design. Incorporate Planters: Attach small planter boxes to the base of the trellis for flowers or herbs, adding both privacy and charm. Cost-Saving Hack Repurpose old pallets or scrap wood to create a DIY trellis. Check salvage yards or construction sites for free or discounted materials. Alternatively, shop at discount stores or look for secondhand lattice panels on platforms like Facebook Marketplace. 3. Use Outdoor Curtains or Fabric Screens Outdoor curtains or fabric screens are an elegant, low-cost way to create privacy while adding a touch of personality to your backyard. They’re perfect for small spaces, patios, or pergolas, and they can be easily removed or changed with the seasons. How to Set Up Fabric Screens? Materials Needed: Weather-resistant outdoor fabric, curtain rods or tension wires, hooks, and optional weights or grommets. Steps: Choose a location, such as between two posts, a pergola, or a fence line. Install a curtain rod or tension wire securely at the desired height. Sew or clip fabric panels to the rod or wire. For a budget-friendly option, use drop cloths, old bedsheets, or thrifted tablecloths treated with waterproofing spray. Add weights to the bottom of the fabric to prevent flapping in the wind, or 5. Pull the wind. Open or close the curtains as needed for privacy or an open feel. Design Tips Choose Bold Colors: Bright or patterned fabrics can create a bohemian vibe or complement your outdoor furniture. Layer for Privacy: Use multiple layers of fabric to increase opacity without sacrificing airflow. Add Lighting: String fairy lights or lanterns behind the curtains for a magical evening atmosphere. Cost-Saving Hack Instead of purchasing expensive outdoor fabric, repurpose old shower curtains or vinyl tablecloths, which are naturally water-resistant. Visit thrift stores or clearance sections for affordable fabric options to sew your own panels from discount bolts. 4. Repurpose Old Furniture or Salvaged Items Repurposing old furniture or salvaged materials is an eco-friendly and budget-conscious way to create unique privacy screens. Items like old doors, shutters shutters, or doors can be transformed into charming barriers that add character to your backyard. Old Doors or Shutters: Arrange vintage doors or shutters in a row and hinge them together to form a freestanding screen. Paint them in vibrant colors for a distressed, farmhouse look or a cohesive design. Bookshelves or Room Dividers: Use old bookshelves or indoor room dividers as outdoor screens. Seal with weatherproof sealant to protect them from the elements. Pallets: Stack or lean pallets against each other to create a rustic privacy wall. Add planter boxes or hang potted plants for extra greenery. Corrugated Metal: Salvaged metal sheets can be mounted on wooden frames for an industrial-style privacy screen. Implementation Tips Stabilize Structures: Anchor repurposed items with stakes or concrete bases to ensure they withstand wind or weather. Weatherproofing: Apply outdoor sealant or paint to protect wood or metal from rain and sun damage. Combine with Plants: Pair salvaged screens with climbing vines or potted plants to soften the look and enhance privacy. Cost-Saving Hack Scour flea markets, yard sales, or online marketplaces like Freecycle for free or low-cost items. Many homeowners give away old doors or shutters during renovations, so keep an eye out for local listings. 5. Create a Vertical Garden Wall Vertical gardens are an innovative way to combine privacy with greenery, making them ideal for small backyards or urban spaces. By growing plants vertically on a structure, you can create a lush, living wall that blocks views while adding a vibrant focal point to your landscape. Materials Needed: Pallets, PVC pipes, or gutter sections for planters; potting soil; plants (succulents, herbs, or ferns); and mounting hardware. Steps: Choose a structure, such as a pallet or a series of mounted gutters. Line the structure with landscape fabric or plastic to hold soil and prevent leaks. Fill with lightweight potting soil and plant your chosen greenery. Secure the structure to a fence, wall, or freestanding posts. Water regularly and ensure proper drainage to keep plants healthy. Plant Choices for Vertical Gardens Succulents: Low-maintenance and drought-tolerant, perfect for beginners. Herbs: Grow basil, thyme, or mint for a functional and fragrant privacy wall. Ferns or Ivy: These provide dense coverage and thrive in shady areas. Cost-Saving Hack Use recycled materials like old gutters or plastic bottles as planters. Source free pallets from local businesses or warehouses, and propagate plants from cuttings to reduce costs. 6. Add Strategic Potted Plants Potted plants offer a flexible, low-budget way to create privacy without permanent changes to your landscape. They’re ideal for renters, small spaces, or anyone who wants the freedom to rearrange their backyard layout. Tall Plants: Opt for potted bamboo, citrus trees, or oleanders for height and density. Layered Arrangements: Combine plants of varying heights, such as tall grasses with mid-sized shrubs and low ground cover, for a fuller screen. Evergreens: Choose evergreens like boxwood or dwarf conifers for year-round privacy. Implementation Tips Use Large Pots: Larger containers hold taller plants and create a more substantial barrier. Group for Impact: Cluster pots tightly together to form a seamless screen. Add Wheels: Attach casters to heavy pots for easy mobility, allowing you to adjust your privacy setup as needed. Mix with Decor: Incorporate lanterns, fairy lights, or outdoor rugs among the pots to enhance the aesthetic. Cost-Saving Hack Shop for discounted pots at thrift stores or use repurposed items like buckets or barrels. Buy smaller plants and let them grow, or divide existing plants from your garden to fill multiple pots. Conclusion You don’t need a big budget to turn your backyard into a peaceful, private retreat. Whether you’re into lush greenery, simple DIYs, or a blend of both, these six low-cost privacy ideas can suit any space and style. From fast-growing plants to upcycled materials, small changes can make a big impact. The trick is to get creative with what you already have. Layering a few plants, hanging a curtain, or building a quick screen with pallets can do wonders. Before spending big on fencing or hiring help, take a look around—you might already have the pieces to build a cozy outdoor escape. Khaja Moinuddin, a computer science graduate, finds joy in gardening and homesteading. Join him on this blog as he shares his experiences in homesteading, gardening, and composting Source link

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If a thick, chocolate malt milkshake is your kind of treat, just wait until you scoop into this chocolate malt ice cream—it’s everything you love, frozen into pure nostalgic bliss. Chocolate Malt One taste of a chocolate malt is all it takes to transport me back to childhood. My grandpa used to make chocolate malts for us when we visited and we’d very carefully carry them upstairs and out the second-story door to walk out on the roof and enjoy them. The excitement of being on the roof and also enjoying a frosty chocolate malt milkshake? Oh, that couldn’t be beaten. This batch of chocolate malt ice cream took me right back to visiting my grandparents in Dewey, AZ in the summertime. There are so many memories attached to the foods we eat and I love when I can make something today that transports me back in time. The most popular question I get is whether it’s possible to make ice cream without a machine. The answer is YES. You can make ice cream without a machine. Find the full directions here! And if you love Whoppers or chocolate malted milk balls, you just might go a little crazy over this Chocolate Malted Crunch Ice Cream. Old-fashioned chocolate malt ice cream gets a little extra boost of fun from chopped malted milk balls. Chocolate Malt Ice Cream Making this ice cream is pretty darn easy. There are no eggs required and you won’t need a custard base for this ice cream. You’ll simply whisk together the cream, cocoa powder, malted milk powder, sugar, and salt in a saucepan and bring it to a simmer. Stir in the chocolate until it melts, add the milk, and then chill your ice cream base until it’s good and cold. Once the mixture is cool, pour it into the ice cream maker and churn it up. You can make this ice cream with milk chocolate, semi-sweet, or dark chocolate. However, as much as I love dark chocolate as a general rule, for a classic malt flavor, the lighter chocolate will deliver the classic flavor. You can enjoy the ice cream straight out of the machine for soft serve ice cream, or transfer it to the freezer until it’s firm enough to scoop into cones or bowls. Chocolate Ice Cream Recipes There’s enough chocolate ice cream here to satisfy the greatest of chocolate lovers. My husband has two favorites and they’ve been at the top of his ice cream loving list for over ten years now. The first is this Spicy Chocolate Ice Cream. It is cold, creamy chocolate with a hint of spicy heat from chili and cinnamon. It warms your mouth even as you are chilled from the ice cream. The second is a rich, dark, ultra-smooth, and creamy chocolate that meets a hint of orange in a sweet ice cream like no other you’ve ever tasted. If you’re skeptical of the chocolate and citrus combination, one taste will be all it takes to convince you. For a few of my kids’ favorites, Kit Kat Ice Cream has everything you love about Kit Kat candy bars swirled into each scoop of this homemade ice cream. And creamy chocolate ice cream with a marshmallow swirl, crunchy almonds, and chocolate chips add up to this old-fashioned heavenly hash ice cream. When you fill a batch of chocolate ice cream with chocolate-covered cashews and swirl it with caramel sauce the result is a Bear Claw Ice Cream that no one can resist. While Homemade Rocky Road Ice Cream is creamy chocolate and almond-flavored ice cream loaded with chewy marshmallows, crunchy almonds, and flecks of chocolate. Give me a brownie and ice cream over pretty much any other baked good and ice cream combination. So, naturally, a bowl of chocolate ice cream generously filled with fudgy chunks of brownies calls my name – loudly. For the ultimate brownie ice cream combination, freshly churned chocolate ice cream is layered with bite-size chunks of Cosmic Brownies and scattered with miniature M&M candies to create this super fun Cosmic Brownie Ice Cream. There’s even a dairy-free chocolate ice cream that doesn’t taste dairy-free and doesn’t have even a hint of coconut. YES! It is possible and it is fantastic! Get New Recipessent to your inbox!We never share your information with third parties and will protect it in accordance with our Privacy Policy. Servings: 6 ½ cup servings In a large saucepan, combine the cream, cocoa, malt powder, sugar, and salt. Whisk to combine and then heat over medium heat, stirring continually, until it comes together and begins to steam and simmer. (If you wish, you may increase the heat, but continue stirring non-stop. Do not step away at this point.)Remove from the heat and immediately add the chocolate. Whisk until the chocolate has completely melted. Stir in the milk and vanilla. Cool and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight until completely cold. Pour the mixture into the ice cream maker and process according to your machine’s instructions. Serve immediately for soft-serve ice cream or transfer to a freezer-safe storage container and freeze until ready to serve. Calories: 454kcal · Carbohydrates: 42g · Protein: 7g · Fat: 31g · Saturated Fat: 19g · Polyunsaturated Fat: 1g · Monounsaturated Fat: 8g · Trans Fat: 0.01g · Cholesterol: 77mg · Sodium: 119mg · Potassium: 360mg · Fiber: 3g · Sugar: 36g · Vitamin A: 997IU · Vitamin C: 1mg · Calcium: 151mg · Iron: 2mg With over 160 ice cream recipes here to choose from, there’s sure to be an ice cream for everyone! If you’re new to making ice cream, the best and easiest vanilla ice cream is a great place to start. These are my favorite inexpensive containers for storing ice cream. They’re perfect for gifting (who doesn’t love homemade ice cream?) storage, re-using, etc. I write the flavors on the lids with a sharpie and it washes off with dish soap. I have more ice cream scoops than I can keep track of at this point and I definitely play favorites. This ice cream scoop does the best job ever of cutting through firm ice cream and still delivers a pretty scoop. It gets bonus points for being one of the least expensive scoops I own as well. Don’t miss our Ice Cream Maker Review for all the information you need to find the BEST Ice Cream Maker for your needs. Spoiler alert – our top-rated machine under $50 just might surprise you. It sure surprised me! Source link

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Recent research reveals that America has some of the lowest public bathroom availability in the world, with just eight facilities on average per 100,000 citizens. Whether it’s Google Maps or CityMapper, the need for proper tagging or capping of search results can make it even harder to find the restrooms that do exist, leaving US citizens unable to access basic sanitary facilities when they leave their homes.  For World Continence Week, leading global incontinence brand TENA have delved further into the data, crunching the numbers at state and city level to reveal which areas are outperforming at providing relief and which are struggling to keep up.   Based on metrics including restroom discoverability via popular map applications, discoverable bathroom density by population, and cleanliness and maintenance of these facilities, the rankings take previous research a step further by showing which locations are worst affected and which are upping their game.  Wyoming, Montana, and Hawaii offer the best public restroom access in the US.  For a smaller state, Wyoming packs a punch when it comes to public restroom provision. With an average of 118 public bathrooms appearing on state-level map searches, restrooms are properly tagged not just for search appeal but with accessibility information, meaning anyone can easily track down a free-to-use bathroom at the touch of a button. Public restrooms are also relatively well spread out compared to other states, with 37 public facilities available along major highways for anyone taking to the open road. Eighty-four percent of publicly available reviews scored over four stars, with restrooms often being cited as well maintained and clean.  Montana has the next largest number of public bathrooms easily discoverable via popular map apps, with one discoverable bathroom facility per 100,000 residents. Visit Montana also provides a list of public restroom facilities for travelers, allowing visitors with conditions such as urinary incontinence to plan their trips.  Hawaii, on the other hand, has a cap of 120 on the amount of public bathrooms appearing in Google Maps searches, with the actual number of public restrooms available in the state reported to be much larger. Oahu alone has 215 state-maintained public restroom facilities, according to the Department of Parks and Reaction. However, with many of these important facilities lost to those using technology to plan an unfamiliar route, they may go unseen. This suggests a need for better online infrastructure to allow users to discover all publicly available bathrooms.   North Dakota offers the cleanest and best maintained public restrooms.  Taking into account the public’s reviews of restrooms based on their cleanliness and maintenance in each state, North Dakota emerges as the clear winner: 94 percent of all restroom reviews analyzed were four or above. Despite having a smaller number of discoverable public bathrooms than the top three states, the public facilities provided were reported as having a nice atmosphere, being conveniently placed, and clean.  Elsewhere, Indiana, New Mexico, and Alaska also scored highly, with around 88 percent of reviews on public restrooms analyzed rated four or above.  At the other end of the scale, West Virginia’s toilets were the least well maintained or clean in the US according to public reviews, with only 32 percent of reviews being four or above. As well as having very few discoverable public restrooms for those with accessibility needs, reviews listed that some restrooms had ‘wet’ toilets, that many of them were locked during what should have been their opening hours and that facilities provided were ‘basic’.  Wheelchair-accessible bathrooms could be easiest to access in Wyoming.  For those with additional accessibility needs, Wyoming again had the largest number of public restrooms tagged as wheelchair-accessible on popular map apps, with an estimated 16.2 accessible toilets per 100,000 members of the population. With provisions made for those with additional accessibility needs at most rest stops and public bathrooms outside of major cities, Wyoming leads the way in terms of digital public restroom information.  Accessibility provisions are harder to come by in other states, however, with both Vermont and Alaska boasting only eight discoverable public bathrooms suitable for those with accessibility needs in the whole state. Alaska in particular has just one accessible and discoverable restroom for each 100,000 residents, concentrated in downtown areas, making it difficult to plan for trips or enjoy the freedom of the open road for any Americans with additional needs.  New Hampshire and Kentucky struggle to provide relief.   While some states succeeded or struggled in specific areas, Kentucky received the lowest aggregated score of all states, putting it firmly at the bottom of public restroom access rankings. With only 20 public restrooms discoverable on map apps throughout the state, and very few on lengthy highways, the heartland of bourbon has only 0.04 discoverable public restrooms for every 100,000 residents. While it is likely that public restroom facilities contain more than one toilet, it is equally likely that easily discoverable options could lead to overcrowding, long wait times, and further accessibility issues. Cleanliness and maintenance were also an issue, with over 55 percent of reviews analyzed scoring facilities only three or below.  New Hampshire also struggled to impress, with only 11 discoverable public restrooms on popular map apps, the lowest of any state. With even smaller states such as Alaska boasting 17 discoverable public restrooms, this presents a challenge for anyone travelling outside of their local area.   The ability to find and access public restrooms can be challenging for Americans, but it can also make a great difference to quality of life – whether traveling for work or pleasure, or simply navigating a new city. Technology can help plan trips or locate facilities in an emergency, but the restrictions put in place by many apps can also create additional problems. While some states provide a variety of options, some still struggle to keep up, putting more pressure on bladders across America. Industry News & Trends Industry Training & Events Advice from the Field Insights & Updates Source link

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Happy Monday GPODers! We’re starting the week with a jaw-dropping transformation and some serious inspiration. Marty Oostveen moved from New Jersey to Douglassville, Pennsylvania just over 9 years ago, and started her new gardens from a blank slate of clay dirt. While tons of plants made the pilgrimage from New Jersey to her new home in Pennsylvania, it’s still astounding to see what she has accomplished and created in less than a decade. Our garden is in Douglassville, PA, and we moved here in May of 2016. It was a new building, with zero garden, just heavy compacted clay as you can see in the picture (see the photo below). The first order of business was the addition of a 10K gallon pond for my wet pets, the koi. Once that was in, I started planting the 100+ plants that made the move from my NJ gardens and then added more, and more, and more. For my 65th birthday three years ago I had the last bit of front lawn eliminated, a short retaining wall built, and planted the rest of the front garden. By now my garden has become a destination in our development and I have made new gardening friends by giving away excess plants. I have also inspired my neighbors! I hope you enjoy the pictures. Regards,(ms) Marty Oostveen Marty was not exaggerating when she said ZERO garden. It’s almost hard to imagine that this is the same space as the lush gardens she has created, and I can only imagine the amount of amending she did along the way. The American fringe tree (Chionanthus virginicus, Zones 3–9) in the first picture is a female, which gives me shorter flowers, but also strings of fruit which are enjoyed by the birds. This tree is in a rain garden. This is a shot of my pond with the blooming dogwood. Underneath the dogwood I have a collection of miniature hostas. A shot of the front garden with the raised bed in the middle. The cobblestones hide a drainage pipe going all the way from the gutter to the sidewalk, watering my garden. Gravel paths run around the beds out to the street and to the front door. Spring She shed is the left hand side of the property in front, with a curly willow (Salix matsudana ‘Tortuosa’, Zones 4–8), which I grew from a twig. Underneath is another shade garden with hostas, ferns, heucheras, Double Play® Candy Corn® spirea (Spiraea japonica ‘NCSX1’, Zones 4–8), echinaceas, Stella D’oro daylily (Hemerocallis ‘Stella de Oro’, Zones 5–7), and yellow blooming alliums. The sedum meadow is on the right hand side of the house, next to the driveway and going all the way out to the sidewalk. It is a mix of sedum, and, much to kid’s enjoyment (and mine) a herd of dinosaurs can be seen roaming the meadow. (You might be able to see the long necks of some dinosaurs peeking out from the sedum, but for a closer look you can check out this great article about Marty’s garden: Berks woman’s backyard oasis) Lastly, a shot of my back garden. Arborvitae in the background with a variety of hostas, ferns, heucheras, epimediums in the shade of a (yellow blooming) magnolia. There is also a yellow smokebush (Cotinus coggygria ‘Ancot’, Zones 4–10), and outside of the picture, a purple smokebush (Cotinus coggygria ‘Royal Purple’, Zones 4–8), underplanted with more shade lovers. There is a Berry Heavy® winterberry holly (Ilex verticillata ‘Spravy’, Zones 3–9), and a Mr. Poppins® Winterberry Holly (Ilex verticillata ‘Spravy’, Zones 3–9) to ensure lots of berries on the Berry Heavy® holly. Thank you so much for sharing your inspiring garden with us, Marty! Moving is almost always a daunting endeavor, and you had an even larger project to attend to than most. But your results show that a strong vision, some creativity, and a lot of planting can create an oasis anywhere. Do you have any before and after photos of your garden? It can be a full-garden creation like Marty’s, or pots and decor you added to perk up your patio. No matter the space you have or the changes you’ve made, it’s always inspiring to see how anything can be improved with a little love and plants. To submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day, follow the directions below to submit via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.   We want to see YOUR garden! Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit! To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden. Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening! Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here Fine Gardening Recommended Products Buffalo-Style Gardens: Create a Quirky, One-of-a-Kind Private Garden with Eye-Catching Designs Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Buffalo-Style Gardens is a one-of-a-kind, offbeat garden design book that showcases the wildly inventive gardens and gardeners of Buffalo – and offers readers "the best of the best” ideas to use in their own small-space gardens. Berry & Bird Rabbiting Spade, Trenching Shovel Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Ideal Tool for All Gardeners Use: Our heavy duty trenching shovel is designed by a professional gardening tool designer. Lifetime Durability: This heavy duty drain spade is made of high-quality stainless steel, it is very strong and durable, even if it is used for high-strength work, it will not bend. Ergonomic Wood Handle: The handle of this planting spade is made of ash hardwood harvested from FSC-certified forests and has an ergonomically streamlined design, making it very suitable for everyone's hands. Multi-Use: This digging shovel is generally used for digging trenches, digging holes, transplanting, edging, moving compost, cutting thick turf and furrowing. The sharp blade allows you to cut, scoop, dig, lift and dice in hard soil. ARS Telescoping Long Reach Pruner Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Telescopes from 4 to 7'. Cut and Hold (160) Blades. Drop forged blades for unsurpassed long lasting sharpness. Lightweight, 2.3 lbs., for continued use. Perfectly balanced for easy pruning. Source link

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Help—what’s wrong with my plant!? First, take a deep breath. Your plant baby will be okay because together, we’re going to get to the bottom of why you have a plant drooping, losing its leaves, wilting, and all the other common signs that your plant is unhappy. Whether it’s an Instagram DM or a comment on a blog post, I get a lot of questions from people asking what’s wrong with my plant. I mean a ton of big HELP!! or SOS messages for plant parents who are panicked about their plants dying. While I wish I could help you all and get to the bottom of it, the reality is that I need to be there to figure out what’s going on. There are a lot of factors that could be at play. You’ll have to do some detective work to figure out exactly what’s going on, whether that’s your plant losing leaves or turning yellow. I’m going to lead you through some step-by-step checks you can do to get to the bottom of why your plant is unhappy. You’ll be able to figure out what’s wrong with your plant and how to fix it! This post will cover… A happy plant will have lots of new growth, like this monstera. How Do I Diagnose What’s Wrong With My Plant? People will often start googling frantically about their plant’s issues and cross their fingers for a solution. Just like going to a doctor, one symptom of illness could point to many things. For example, yellowing leaves could be overwatering AND underwatering, not enough light AND too much light. So how do you figure out what’s truly wrong with your plant? Well, you need to know what conditions your plant likes and then see if you’re giving it just that. Check to see… How much water does your plant like? How much sun does your plant need? Is it best to grow them inside or outside? Does it like humidity? Is it small enough to grow in a pot? How often does it require fertilizer? What are the natural conditions where the plant is native? Understanding the answers to these questions will make you consider whether you’re satisfying all the plant’s needs. Below, I’ve outlined many of the problems and how you can fix them and turn your plant back into happy growth. What’s Wrong With My Plant? Go through these checklist items one by one. I’m positive one of them will be the reason your plant isn’t doing so hot. Watering This is first on the list for good reason. New plant owners struggle to figure out a watering schedule, whether inside or outside plants are the concern. When we notice something is wrong with our plant, we rush to water it. But keep cool for a second, as too much water can also be a problem. We should water our houseplants only when they have fully dried. Before watering, dip your finger in the soil to test its moisture levels. If it’s bone dry or even hard, it’s time for some water. A plant drooping or one that has crinkled leaves often indicates this. If it’s still moist, then put down the watering can. Soggy or plump leaves could indicate there’s too much water, especially when it’s a succulent plant losing leaves. Of course, every plant will have different requirements when it comes to how much water they want. Make sure to look into your plant’s specific needs. For a more thorough guide on how often to water plants, check out this guide here. Before I water, I test the soil with my finger first to see if it needs any water. Root Rot Root rot comes from overwatering your plant or when you have a plant in a pot with no drainage holes. The roots sit in too much water without any air circulation and begin to rot, making them useless. Then, the plant can’t get any water or nutrients and will begin to die. If your soil is often wet or moist, pull up the plant and inspect the roots. Root rot will have a smell, and the roots may appear darkened (even black) and mushy. If you appear to have root rot, then you will need to remove all the infected roots. Here’s what to do: Begin by thoroughly washing the soil from the roots. Use clean scissors to cut away all infected roots. Toss out the soil it was in and thoroughly clean the old pot. If the old pot didn’t have drainage holes, add them or get a new one. Your plant needs them! Place your clean plant and healthy root system into the pot with brand-new potting soil. When the entire root system is affected, you may be better off to try and propagate a still healthy plant cutting from the top of the plant. Follow this propagation guide to do so. Houseplants need potting soil as it’s specially designed to retain moisture while still providing air circulation. Overgrown Pot Just like us, plants get bigger. While we outgrow clothes, they outgrow pots. A plant that has slowed down its growth or stopped growing altogether may have outgrown its pot. A plant can live in this condition for a while before the leaves, and then the plant, begin to die. Check for signs of roots peeking through the drainage holes to see if your plant needs a new pot. Then, gently remove the plant from the pot. If it continues to hold the shape of the pot, and there are plenty of roots in sight, it’s time to upgrade the plant to a bigger home. If you don’t want your plant to be in a bigger pot, consider dividing the plant into two or three new plants instead. You can also keep a plant in a plastic nursery pot and then place it inside a more decorative pot. Light Issues Light issues are another big problem. Once again, it can be either insufficient or too much light. First, check to see what kind of light your plant prefers. Here are some common terms Direct light: plants who love direct light want to be right at a sunny window, ideally facing south or west. They should get 6 hours of sunlight. Indirect light: these plants tend to be placed a little further from the window or through a sheer curtain. They still want that 6 hours of sunlight but at some distance. Low light: plants with this classification get very little light, being either far from the window or in a room with partial shade. Full sun: this plant wants 6-8 hours of direct sunlight. Anytime a plant is advertised as full sun or partial sun, choose full sun when you can. Partial sun/shade: partial shade means protecting it from the full-on bright afternoon sun. It likes 4-6 hours of direct sunlight every day. Shade: this plant likes 4 hours of sunlight, ideally in the morning or late afternoon. I advertise low light plants when really, it means they’re just more tolerant of it. These low-light plants will still grow best when they get a decent amount of sunlight. After all, all plants need the sun to create energy and live. Alternatively, some people give their plants too much light, and the leaves can burn. This is why it’s essential to know your plant’s individual needs. Be mindful of placing plants on windowsills. Some may not like the draft, while others’ leaves can burn by touching the glass. Pests and Diseases In some cases, you’re doing everything right. A pest or disease can also infect the plant and be hard to get rid of. For pests, you’ll have to look for signs of them. This can be the pests flying around themselves or hanging out on leaves, eaten or chewed foliage, waste like poop or honeydew, and eggs or larvae. If you suspect you have a pest, here are some of the most common pests and how to treat them. Fungus gnats are very common for houseplants. The best way to prevent pests is by checking new plants thoroughly before buying them, using sterile compost and soil, and keeping the plant healthy and clean. Rocks on top of the soil are a great way to keep fungus gnats at bay. Shock When people ask me what’s wrong with my plant, I often ask them another question. Have you changed any of the plant’s conditions lately? Sometimes plants can react poorly to new environments. This can mean moving it inside to outside or vice versa, bringing it home from a garden centre, putting it in a new pot, moving it to a new location in the house, or placing it somewhere new in the garden. In the case of shock, there’s not much you can do about it. The plant will get over it and adapt to its new location. Ideally, you don’t want to change too many conditions for the plant at once. One at a time is best to prevent your plant from going into shock. Shock is common when we first buy a plant from the store and bring it home. It’s experiencing a lot of new changes! Aging Sometimes, our plants are just getting old. When our plants live in optimal conditions for a while, they can live a very long time. If they’re in less ideal conditions, we reduce their lifespan. Plants will also lose leaves naturally over time and replace them with new ones. If you have a plant losing leaves, check to see if they are older ones growing on the outside or near the base of the plant. Those ones will naturally fall off, and your plant is doing just fine. But if you find that the newer leaves aren’t doing well, the plant will likely face one of the issues mentioned above. When one plant goes, another plant baby can take its place. I hope this helps answer the question of what’s wrong with my plant. Just taking a moment to think through the conditions and inspect the plant allows you to understand what’s really going on to help revitalize your plant. More Help for Growing Houseplants A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants. Source link

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Interior designers are once again embracing mid-century modern lighting ideas to give rooms a retro edge that looks and feels contemporary. “Creating a dialogue between past and present elevates a space with character and personality,” says London-based designer Rebecca Hughes. “It’s all about timeless sophistication.”The mid-century modern home aesthetic — think sculptural silhouettes in a mix of materials — is a natural and stylish fit for lighting. Fixtures from, and influenced by, the era can anchor a room (the sweeping Arco floor lamp, for one, is a favorite for wow-factor) or provide a playful flourish (think colorful Space Age chandeliers).Whether you’re looking for a new desk lamp to complete your home office or a statement piece to steal the spotlight in your living room, why not take inspiration from one of the most enduring eras of design? Here are ten mid-century modern lighting ideas that will seriously switch on the inspiration. You may like 1. Climb the WallsIn this space, vintage Italian wall lights have been used to create contrast against iconic mid-century modern panelling. (Image credit: James McDonald. Design: The Lore Group)“Lighting is what I refer to as the dark arts,” explains Jacu Strauss, Lore Group’s design and creative director. He created this mid-century modern living space for Sea Containers Hotel in collaboration with Vinterior.Paneled walls are a characteristic design feature of the mid-century modern style , with wood forming an eye-catching backdrop for light fittings. “We wanted to add even more texture here, so we sourced Italian Murano glass sconces to add a touch of sparkle against the walnut,” says Jacu.“A central pendant would have been distracting in this space, and I believe that wall lights are so much more than just functional,” says Jacu. “They can become integral to the overall design language of a space, all the while casting a warm, inviting glow.”2. Play With ColorThe colorful light fitting adds a sense of fun to this London dining room.(Image credit: Simon Brown. Design: Studio Vero)Sputnik-style chandeliers burst into popularity after the first-ever satellite was launched in October 1957. They are often seen in brass or chrome, but for a statement take on the look, why not opt for a colorful version?“We view dining rooms as theatrical moments within the home, so we set them as a stage,” explains Romanos Brihi, co-founder of Studio Vero and creator of this richly-layered space. “There’s a bold confidence in using colorful pieces, especially ones that give spaces a sense of history.”From artwork to flooring, the colors of the chandelier are reflected throughout the colorful dining space. “A statement palette commands attention and creates rooms with personality that still feel like home,” says Romanos.3. Create a BalanceMid-century modern lighting ideas can be executed in a simple way, rather than just a show-stopping one.(Image credit: Elise Scott. Design: Eclectic Creative)If you want to create a more gentle look in your space, mid-century modern lighting can help to set a calm tone. “This nook was designed as a quiet moment, so lighting was a key consideration here,” explains designer Jessica Viscarde from Eclectic Creative.“The black downlight has a clean silhouette, mirroring the architectural lines of the nook’s timber cladding and reinforcing the mid-century reference without feeling too literal,” she says.“Lighting can add depth, dimension, and feeling, and it turns this simple seating area into a place you want to spend time in," she adds. "The best pieces aren’t always the boldest; they’re the ones that quietly balance the surrounding materials and mood. It’s about thoughtful contrast.”Jessica ViscardeSocial Links NavigationFounder and Principal Designer, Eclectic CreativeJessica Viscarde describes her work as crafting spaces that enhance her clients’ daily lives, reflect their stories, and, most importantly, stand the test of time. She is known for restoring period properties with a contemporary sensibility.4. Consider IntegrationThe design of this Melbourne bedroom features a contemporary interpretation of built-in features synonymous with the mid-century era.(Image credit: Tom Blachford. Architect: Neil Architecture. Design: Simone Haag)A key feature of mid-century modern design is bedroom built-ins or integrated elements, chosen then as now to save surface area and artfully blend function with form. “This bedroom calls for elegance and restraint,” explains designer Simone Haag. “The integrated lighting is a subtle touch, with just enough detail to catch your eye but not so much that it interrupts the softness of the space.”“We nodded to mid-century modern design sensibilities with the black and brass combination, but in a way that feels incredibly current," she adds. "This light fitting is more sculptural than it is nostalgic.”If you’re considering a similar look but don’t want to replace your headboard, try mounting clamp-style fittings or installing swing-arm wall lights on either side of the bed. La Redoute Jameson Articulated 1-Arm Wall Light A swing-arm light is one of the best options because it lets you control where and how much light you have, depending on the task you're doing. 5. Layer LightingMultiple light fixtures can create an ambient effect: consider installing smart or dimmable bulbs to soften the impact of multiple sources.(Image credit: Kensington Leverne. Design: De Rosee Sa)Dining room lighting can create a sense of warmth, and this space (part of the 60 Curzon development and designed by De Rosee Sa) is a case in point. “Lighting should never be purely functional; it should elevate mood, enhance materials, and choreograph how a space is experienced,” the firm’s co-founder Claire Sá explains.To achieve a similar effect, consider the positioning of your mid-century modern lighting ideas — think about the height of wall lights and side lamps as well as the ‘drop’ from pendants and the angle of floor lamps. “To build depth here, we layered lighting across different planes,” Claire says.“The Bolzano table lamps from Vaughan, with their sculptural ceramic form, a nod to mid-century aesthetics, complement the custom Spider chandelier by Diego Cardigan from The FM Gallery’s graphic geometry without competing against it," she adds. "Together, they bring a sense of visual balance.”6. Take the FloorAn iconic mid-century modern floor lamp becomes the focal point in this Melbourne living room.(Image credit: Rhiannon Taylor. Design: Chelsea Hing)One of the most recognizable pieces of mid-century modern lighting design is Achille Castiglioni’s iconic Arco floor lamp. Featuring a heavy marble base and graceful metallic curve, the design casts overhead light on a space without relying solely on ceiling fixtures.“As is often the case, some of the best elements of a space can also be its constraints,” says Chelsea Hing, who chose the lighting to respond to the complexities of the room.“The living room is bordered by windows on three sides and overlooks a central courtyard,” she explains. “The iconic Arco works so well here because it’s not constrained in any way by the walls or windows, giving height and volume to the room. The guiding principle here is to pick your hero and commit to it — this is a great example of that.”Chelsea HingSocial Links NavigationFounder and Principal Designer, Chelsea Hing StudioAs the head of her eponymous Melbourne design studio, Chelsea Hing leads an award-winning team known for creating residential spaces as liveable as they are luxurious, and all imbued with character and personality.7. Find Your AngleCreated for a collector of mid-century pieces, this hallway features lighting chosen to echo the space’s structural features.(Image credit: Pfeiffer Design)The sculptural silhouettes of mid-century modern lighting mean the fixtures can work particularly well in spaces with strong contours or architectural quirks.“This table lamp feels as much like art as it does a functional piece, with its form mimicking the rigid, angular style of the industrial staircase,” explains Eloise Pfeiffer from Pfeiffer Design. “The fitting itself softens it, though, as the wood clearly nods to the mid-century period’s more organic feel.”“Using mid-century design in this way can help to make individual pieces feel fresh and liveable in contemporary spaces,” adds Eloise.8. Get to Work A desk lamp with real character, Gino Sarfatti’s Model 548 is an investment piece that will pay dividends in any home office.(Image credit: Astep)The right home office lighting ideas can transform your working environment, adding design flair while increasing productivity. With the era’s love of practicality as well as aesthetics, mid-century modern lighting can be the perfect choice for your home office.“Mid-century modern lighting, with its clean lines, organic forms, and warm finishes bring a distinct sense of character to a desk,” echoes interior designer Rebecca Hughes. “Striking light fixtures command attention and ground a home office in style.”Gino Sarfatti’s eye-catching Model 548 lamp takes pride of place on this desk. Designed in 1951, it features a polished brass base, spotlight shade and reflective diffuser. “Incorporating a treasure like this elevates the design of your space from mere decoration to one with a sense of legacy,” says Rebecca. Astep Model 548 Table Lamp From its silhouette to its finishes, this striking lamp embodies the best of mid-century modern lighting styles. 9. Look upA Louis Poulsen pendant from 1958 is a visual delight from every angle.(Image credit: Yellow. Light: Louis Poulsen)“Lighting is a complex design challenge unique to every space,” the team at Shamshiri, a Los Angeles-based interior design studio, explain. “A solid guiding principle is to focus on balance and adaptability.”When it comes to bedroom lighting ideas, bedside lamps often take center stage, but a statement ceiling light from the mid-century modern era can complement them and become a focal point in its own right. Positioned over a bed, it can provide functional or ambient light while adding visual interest when you’re lying in bed and looking up at the ceiling.“Of particular note is the Louis Poulsen PH Artichoke pendant, originally designed in 1958, which is appropriate to have as a central focus in a space,” the Shamshiri team tells us.10. Go MonochromeIn this dining space, a chandelier inspired by mid-century modern design echoes the considered color palette.(Image credit: Felix Forest. Design: Arent&Pyke. Styling: Claire Delmar)If you decide to stick to a tight color scheme in a space, the choice of light fixtures can play an important role.“A crisp, monochromatic black and white palette defines this dining area, which also features strong vertical and horizontal planes,” explain its designers Juliette Arent and Sarah-Jane Pyke from the award winning Sydney-based studio Arent&Pyke.“We chose the Peggy chandelier from Hangar Design Group to add volume and depth,” the pair reveal. “We tonally matched it to the large artwork behind it, preventing the fixture from dominating the space in the way that perhaps a metallic or colorful pendant would. The light’s sculptural quality enlivens that artwork’s abstract black markings in a way that subtly energizes the room.” Perch & Parrow Deo Five Light Semi Flush Light in Matt Black A modern take on a Sputnik-style chandelier light, this style perfectly blurs the line between contemporary and mid-century modern lighting ideas. FAQsAre Vintage Mid-Century Lights Worth Investing In?Owning a fitting that was designed and produced in the mid-century modern era can feel like you have real design history, with some pieces being collector’s items. Angelo Lelli floor lamps, for example, can reach astronomical sums as devotees seek out the real thing.Original Flos production runs of the Arco floor lamp from the 1960s are fan favourites and can be picked up on marketplaces like 1stDibs for around the same price as new ones.If the sense of history and the patina of time is important, then take the time to seek out your favorite designs. If it’s more about the look, then modern re-issues of the classics are perfect, as long as they’re produced by the license holder, and far simpler to pick up. Of course, some vintage mid-century lights can be real steals: try Vinterior or eBay for unbranded (but no less authentic) pieces.No matter which room of the house you’re considering a new fitting for, these mid-century lighting ideas should have sparked at least a few bright spots.The era resonates so strongly with today’s interiors designers because its principles of design with purpose are just as important in contemporary spaces. Now it's time to complete the look, with the best mid-century modern bedroom ideas or mid-century modern bathroom ideas. Source link

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   1. Botanical Bliss: Upcycled Jar Terrarium   Terrariums are a lovely way to bring a touch of nature indoors. They're surprisingly low-maintenance and create a captivating miniature world. In this project, we'll repurpose an old jar into a stunning terrarium. Materials: Glass jar (any size or shape will work!) Pebbles or gravel for drainage Activated charcoal (optional, helps purify the air) Potting mix suitable for succulents or terrarium plants Small succulent plants or terrarium plants (air plants are also a great option) Decorative elements (moss, small figurines, colorful rocks) Instructions: Clean the jar: Wash the jar thoroughly with soap and water, ensuring no residue. Create a drainage layer: Add a 1-inch layer of pebbles or gravel to the jar's bottom. This allows excess water to drain, preventing root rot for your plants. Optional: Add charcoal: If using, place a thin layer of activated charcoal on top of the drainage layer. This helps absorb impurities and odors, keeping your terrarium fresh. Fill with potting mix: Add enough potting mix to create a base for your plants. Aim for a depth that allows for root growth. Planting: Make a small indentation in the potting mix for each plant. Carefully place your plants in the jar, ensuring their roots are covered. Arrange them to create a visually appealing composition. Decorate! Use moss, small figurines, or colorful rocks to add personality to your terrarium. Tips: Select plants that flourish in comparable light and humidity environments. Due to their low-maintenance requirements, succulents and air plants are popular options for terrariums. Research the needs of your chosen plants to ensure proper care. Terrariums can be closed or open systems. Closed terrariums require minimal watering as the moisture circulates within the jar. Depending on the plants, open terrariums may need occasional watering. Related: DIY Tablecloth Makeovers: Give Your Old Tablecloths a New Lease on Life Unleash Your Inner Designer! 2. Wall Magic: DIY Canvas Art Blank walls can feel uninspired. Liven them up with custom canvas art that reflects your style! This project is beginner-friendly and allows for endless creative possibilities. Materials: Blank canvas (choose a size that complements your space) Acrylic paints (various colors of your choice) Paintbrushes (different sizes for various effects) Stencils (optional for creating patterns or designs) Masking tape (optional for creating clean lines) Collage materials (optional for adding texture and dimension) Instructions: Plan your design: Sketch your desired artwork on paper beforehand or freehand it directly onto the canvas if you're comfortable. Prime the canvas (optional): Applying a base coat of white or light-colored acrylic paint can create a smoother surface for painting. Allow it to dry completely. Paint your masterpiece: Use acrylic paints to create your design—experiment with bold colors and contrasting hues or a more muted palette. Get creative with techniques: For abstract art, use drip or splatter paint or a palette knife to create textured effects. Stencils and Masking: Use stencils to create intricate patterns or geometric designs. Masking tape lets you make clean lines and shapes for a more structured look. Collage it Up (optional): Add magazine clippings, fabric scraps, or other exciting materials to your canvas for a unique, textural effect. Tips: Protect your work area with a drop cloth or newspapers. Layer your paint for a richer color. Let each layer dry as fine as possible before adding another layer. Don't be afraid to experiment! Abstract art thrives on chance and exploration. If a mistake is made, acrylic paint can usually be wiped off with a cloth while still wet. Related: Top 5 Summer Color Palettes to Brighten Up Your Home 3. Light Up Your Life: DIY Pendant Lamp Lighting is very important thing to consider when we are setting the ambiance of a space. Transform a simple pendant lamp into a stunning statement piece with this easy DIY project. Materials: Existing pendant lamp (choose a basic design for easier customization) Spray paint (in a color or metallic finish of your choice) String lights (battery-operated or plug-in, depending on your preference) Decorative items (optional, such as fairy lights, ribbons, or dried flowers) Instructions: Prep the lamp: If the lampshade is fabric, remove it for easier painting. Gently clean the lamp base and shade with a damp cloth to remove any dust or dirt. Ensure the lamp is completely dry before painting. Paint the lamp: Apply spray paint in even strokes in a well-ventilated area. Use light coats and allow each layer to dry completely before adding another. Apply 2-3 coats for a solid, opaque finish. Reassemble the lamp (if applicable): Once the paint is dry, reattach the lampshade to the base. Related: DIY Fabric Placemats: A Fun and Creative Touch to Your Dining Table String Light Magic: There are two ways to incorporate string lights into your DIY pendant lamp: Internal Illumination: Carefully thread the string lights through the top opening of the lampshade and weave them around the inside of the shade. Aim for a dispersed distribution of lights. If using a plug-in string light option, ensure the cord exits through a discreet spot on the lamp base and can reach a power outlet. External Illumination: Wrap the string lights around the outside of the lampshade, creating a whimsical, fairy-light effect. Battery-operated string lights are ideal for this approach. 4. Rug Remix: Painted Floor Cloth A plain rug can be easily transformed into a unique work of art with a splash of paint. This project is perfect for adding a pop of color, pattern, or personalized message to your space. Materials: Plain throw rug or canvas floor cloth (choose a material suitable for paint) Fabric paints (in various colors of your choice) Paintbrushes (different sizes for details and filling) Stencils (optional) Drop cloth or plastic sheeting Instructions: Protect your workspace: Lay down a drop cloth or plastic sheeting to prevent paint splatter. Plan your design: Decide on your desired pattern or motif. Sketch it on paper beforehand, or freehand it directly onto the rug. Prime the rug (optional): Applying a fabric primer can help the paint adhere better for some fabrics. Follow the instructions on the primer product. Paint your design: Use fabric paints to create your design. Experiment with geometric shapes, floral patterns, stripes, or stencils for intricate details. Let it dry: The paint will dry completely according to the fabric paint instructions. Most fabric paints require heat setting with an iron for permanence. Tips: Choose fabric paints specifically designed for the type of rug material you're using. Before starting your design, test your paint colors on a small, inconspicuous rug area. Apply fabric medium to thin your paints for a watercolor effect. Layer your paint for a more vibrant color. Let each layer dry completely before adding another. Related: DIY Kitchen Towel Projects: Spruce Up Your Kitchen With A Personal Touch 5. Shelf Life: Revamped Bookends Bookends are functional but can also add a decorative touch to your bookshelf. With this project, you can breathe new life into old bookends or create your own unique pair! Materials: Existing bookends (or sturdy objects to use as bookends) Spray paint (in a color or metallic finish of your choice) Embellishments (optional, such as knobs, buttons, washi tape, or decoupage paper) Instructions: Prep the bookends: Clean the bookends thoroughly with a damp cloth to remove any dust or dirt. Ensure they are completely dry before painting. Paint the bookends: Apply spray paint in even strokes in a well-ventilated area. Use light coats and allow each layer to dry completely before adding another. Apply 2-3 coats for a solid, opaque finish. Embellishment Time: Knobs & Buttons: Adhere decorative knobs or buttons to the bookends for a unique 3D effect. Use a strong craft glue suitable for the bookend material. Washi Tape Magic: Use colorful washi tape to create geometric patterns, stripes, or color block designs. Decoupage Delight: Cut out interesting shapes from decoupage paper and adhere them to the bookends for a vintage or patterned look. Apply a coat of decoupage medium over the paper to seal it. Source link

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Key Points Gnats thrive in moisture, humidity, and decomposing matter, especially after rain.Cut down their numbers by drying soil, clearing debris, and removing standing water.Acting early prevents plant damage and keeps gnats from spreading indoors. If you're finding an overflow of gnats outside your home, it can be a huge nuisance. Gnats aren't all bad—they decompose organic matter, pollinate flowers, and serve and as a food source for large insects, birds, and bats—but large numbers of these pests make lounging outdoors unenjoyable. Plus, some can pose a threat to your garden plants. Read on to learn about when outdoor gnats are becoming a problem, how to get rid of them, and prevent them from infesting your home.  What Attracts Gnats Outside Your Home Credit: TorriPhoto / Getty Images The typical yard contains lots of sources that potentially attract gnats: moisture and humidity, dampness, dense plant life, and decomposing organic matter. Gnats thrive in temperatures between 75 and 80°F and populations often visibly increase in extended rainy periods. They're attracted to decomposing matter and standing water, so removing trash promptly and being mindful of water sources is the first step of gnat control. Eliminating all the sources that attract gnats is impossible and would be detrimental to creating a beautiful landscape and balanced ecosystem, but you can at least control their populations by eliminating some of the most obvious sources. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Control Gnats Outside To reduce gnat populations, gnats need to be targeted at the larval stage; this is when they damage plants. Getting rid of gnat adults by spraying them with pesticide will do more damage than good and kill beneficial insects. Eliminating the sources that attract gnats is your first line of defense. It may require more than one measure to get rid of gnats. Remove Stagnant Water Clean up any standing water and places where water accumulates, such as clogged storm drains, drain pipes, and gutters. Be mindful to fix any outdoor plumbing or irrigation system leaks, too. This is where gnats grow and mate. Avoid Wet Soil Wet soil is a primary source of fungus gnats, indoors as well as outdoors. Improving poor drainage around established plants is tricky, but the least you can do is adjust your watering schedule. Only water plants when the soil is dry, and always let the soil dry completely before the next watering. Drainage Tip If the soil drains poorly, improve the drainage of the potting soil by repotting the plants and using soil with more perlite.  Remove Organic Debris Gnats like to lay their eggs in moist decomposing organic matter such as grass clippings, compost, and mulches. Collect any organic debris around your yard and avoid applying more organic fertilizers (compost, manure, blood meal) than necessary, especially in wet weather. For potted plants, only use pasteurized potting soil as the organic matter in it may be infested with fungus gnats. Use Biological Control An effective way to control gnats is to add beneficial nematodes to the soil. These tiny worms kill the pests without affecting other beneficial insects—plus, they multiply in the soil so there is a long-term effect. This is sold in powder form and added with water to the soil.  Be Cautious of Homemade Methods Homemade remedies for gnats such as vinegar and soap or potato traps are not effective ways to control gnats in your garden. These methods are meant to be used in a limited and confined indoor space. Types of Gnats Gnat is the common name for several small, winged insects with long legs. They mate in swarms and multiply rapidly and in large numbers, laying their eggs on land or water. Insects commonly referred to as gnats include: Drain flies: Also known as sink flies or sewer flies, they are found around drains, sewers, and septic tanks. Phorid flies: Like drain flies, they are found around garbage, drains, rotting fruits and vegetables, and other decaying organic matter. Fruit flies: These pesky indoor pests are attracted to lots of organic materials such as rotting or fresh fruits and vegetables, sugary drinks, wine, and vinegar. Fungus gnats: Mostly a problem of houseplants, fungus gnats can also damage outdoor plants by transmitting disease. The larvae of fungus gnats feed on plant roots, causing leaves to turn yellow and drop or causing plant wilting and death. Preventing Future Infestations Credit: Akchamczuk / Getty Images In addition to following the control methods above, monitoring your plants for gnats is another good way to reduce gnat population before they turn into an infestation. Look for the adults on soil, plants, or in flight; yellow sticky traps are useful for monitoring population numbers. If any of your patio plants are infested, don’t move them to a different area because they might infest other nearby plants. Keeping Gnats Away From Your Home Just as gnats outdoors, gnats indoors are attracted by moisture and rotting organic matter. Closely inspect every potted plant before bringing it into your home. This applies both to newly bought houseplants as well as plants that spent the summer on your patio and that you bring back indoors for the winter. If you are not sure whether the plant has fungus gnats, play it safe and turn the top 2 to 3 inches of soil over and let it dry out to kill the larvae. If a plant is visibly infested, it’s better to get rid of it. FAQ The main reasons why you suddenly see a surge in gnats outside are warm, rainy weather, moisture buildup in garden beds, and standing water. There is no way to get rid of gnats once and for all—you need to keep eliminating the sources that attract them. Gnats return every year, especially if they find suitable places (moisture, organic matter) to lay their eggs. A study undertaken by Kansas State University Bounce® original brand fabric softener dryer sheets found evidence that repel fungus gnats, but the outdoor use has not been tested and many issues—such as damage to plants and the environment—have not yet been studied. For that reason, dryer sheets should not be used outdoors. Source link

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Happy Monday GPODers! You can learn a lot about a garden from one submission to Garden Photo of the Day, but I think the full picture really comes into view when we see a space in at least two seasons. This was absolutely the case when I saw this submission from Bonnie Phipps in Boulder, Colorado. Bonnie first shared her gorgeous garden in fall of 2022 (check that post out here: November in Colorado), and showcased the wonderful autumn color that emerges in the late season. Today we get to see her space in its peak spring and summer bloom, with a delicious assortment of textures that bring insane interest to everything from shady corners to foundation plantings. While Bonnie’s first submission was wonderful and gave us a great glimpse into her space, the following photos and descriptions unveil even more personality and perspective. Hello, I sent some fall photos that you shared a few years ago and I’ve been meaning to send more but time gets away from me. So this time I set aside many hours and days to go through my photos from the last several years. I’ve organized the ones that look nice into various themes. I think I have about 5 future submissions to send so far. I think my favorite part about Fine Gardening is seeing the Photo of the Day submissions. I gardened in Denver for about 7 years before I moved to Boulder, Colorado (zone 4-5). We live on a 4 house cul-de-sac and our house is set at an angle on our lot so our garden is divided into several sections which is quite nice. It is a quarter-acre plot but feels much bigger because it’s all garden – I only have a small 19’ diameter circle of grass in the back. I’ve been gardening in our yard since 2006, one section at a time. I’m interested in design and texture as I garden. This submission is an overview of the north side of our garden. In 2006 we had a landscape company put in the hardscape including the walking circle that I designed for my husband to do walking meditation. Nancy Loving of Loving Gardens designed the area near the house and the rock garden but I’ve had to change it quite a bit over the last 18 years as plants get overgrown or die. I learned a lot from Nancy and used what I learned to design other areas of our garden and to make necessary changes to the old areas over the years. My Garden Angel Our welcoming rose arch. It’s 18 years old and going strong! Our parking area is just to the front and to the left side of it. The path that leads into the garden from the rose arch. The plant on the bottom left side of the photo is Matcha Ball® ash leaf false spirea (Sorbaria sorbifolia ‘Levgreen’, Zones 3–7). I just discovered it this year and I love the texture. I’m going to find places to add more this coming season! About 8 years ago, I tore this whole section up and started from scratch (except the tree). I put yews in the back to create a backdrop for the statue. I used golden creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’, Zones 4–8) to lead up to the statue and planted a line of dark coral bells on each side then added plants to fill in behind. I love creeping Jenny and use it a lot in various sections of the garden. It is easy to pull out when it gets out of bounds. This spring, I will need to shorten the yews to let more light in so the hydrangeas behind the statue bloom more. My husband’s walking circle. The 3 rocks symbolize Man, Earth, and Sky. The pic is from the fall as the Annabelle hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’, Zones 3–9) are in bloom. That’s Carol Mackie daphne (Daphne × burkwoodii ‘Carol Mackie’, Zones 3–9) to the right of the hydrangeas, but they died last year and I put more hydrangeas in its place. Another path that leads into the walking circle. This is a spring pic and the yellow blooms around the walking circle are from Oakleaf sedum (Sedum hybridum, Zones 4–10). They have been there since 2006 and have never died. It must love it there because believe me, I have a lot of things that die!!! A spring picture. The path leads from the walking circle area to the very backyard. You can see a little of the small grass circle at the end of the path. A summer picture from last year which shows a metal art I added. The variety of textures here really works for me. That’s what I try for but don’t always get. I learned about creating texture from Nancy Loving. Another view of the area shows the “rock garden” on the top right and the Itoh peonies on the bottom left. The walking circle with the Flower Garden on the right. (That’s another submission to come.) Thank you so much for sharing your gorgeous garden with us again, Bonnie! After seeing the sensational fall color you’ve achieved from your first submission, it was absolutely no surprise that your spring and summer gardens are a filled with endless interest and personality. I’m already eagerly anticipating your future submissions and seeing more of your fabulous designs. Are you ready for the growth and color that is coming our way this spring and summer? Let’s ring in the growing season by celebrating some color and fun! If the earliest signs of spring are emerging from your garden, or you’re still looking back at pictures from last spring in anticipation of the first blooms of this year, share your spring photos with Garden Photo of the Day! Follow the directions below to submit your photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.   Have a garden you’d like to share? Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit! To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden. Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening! Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here. Fine Gardening Recommended Products Attracting Beneficial Bugs to Your Garden, Revised and Updated Second Edition: A Natural Approach to Pest Control Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. This revised and updated edition of Jessica Walliser’s award-winning Attracting Beneficial Bugs to Your Garden offers a valuable and science-backed plan for bringing balance back to the garden. With this indispensable gardening reference—now updated with new research, insights, and voices—learn how to create a healthy, balanced, and diverse garden capable of supporting a hard-working crew of beneficial pest-eating insects and eliminate the need for synthetic chemical pesticides. Lee Valley Large Gardener's Wash Basket Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. This basket was designed to be used by gardeners to wash freshly harvested vegetables before taking them inside. You can gather your vegetables and then hose them off right in the same basket. However, you can also use it for fruit or add a cloth liner for serving bread or other baked goods. Measuring 16" long, 11" wide and 4" deep, it is made of chrome-plated steel to resist rust. 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