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Wines of the year, 2023

Given the nature of my work and the fine wine folk I am so lucky to rub elbows with on the regular, I taste thousands of wines each year. These are the ones I remember most fondly: the way they opened the world, the way they centred experience, and all the kind souls that shared them with me. 

I will remember 2023 as the year I really shed my ignorance and fell in love with Bordeaux and a year in which my partner and I continued our love affair with Jura Chards and Loire Chenins and entered into a new obsession with the great dessert wines of the world.

This list probably looks unhinged to the non-obsessed haha. Without having a social media outlet these last few years, it feels like some small gesture to the hardworking producers who crafted these works of art to be able to shout them out and thank them for their work. So here were the gems:

MY TOP 12 WHITES

Dom BELARGUS 2018 ‘Rouères’ Chenin Blanc, Anjou AOC, Loire

Dom STÉPHANE TISSOT 2018 ‘Les Bruyères’ Chardonnay, Arbois AOC, Jura

O'ROURKE FAMILY ESTATE 2020 'Twisted Pine' Chardonnay, Lake Country, BC

LA FRENZ 2011 ‘Knorr Vineyard’ Semillon, Naramata Bench, BC

PATRICK SULLIVAN 2020 Baw Baw Shire Chardonnay, Victoria, Australia

BIEN NACIDO 2020 Estate Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley, California

CLOS DU MOULIN AUX MOINES 2020 Pernand-Vergelesses AOC 'Les Combottes', Burgundy

Dom BITOUZET-PRIEUR 2017 Meursault AOC 1er Cru Perrières, Chardonnay, Burgundy

M. CHAPOUTIER 2018 Hermitage AOC ‘Chante-Alouette’, Marsanne, Rhône

LITTORAI 2013 ‘Mays Canyon’ Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California

BINDI 2015 ‘Kostas Rind’ Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula, Australia

RAMEY 2019 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay, Napa Valley, California

MY TOP 10 REDS

Ch LÉOVILLE-LAS-CASES 1975 Grand Vin, Saint-Julien AOC, Grand Cru Classé Deuxième, Bordeaux

Ch LA TOUR DE MONS 1982 Margaux AOC, Bordeaux

Dom MUGNERET-GIBOURG 2020 Échezeaux Grand Cru AOC, Burgundy

HIYU 2017 ‘Aura’, Pinot Gris & Pinot Noir, Columbia Gorge, Oregon

TWO VINTNERS 2019 ‘The Waiting List’ Syrah, Yakima Valley, Washington

AGRI SEGRETUM 2018 Todi DOC ‘Marmocchio’, Sangiovese/Sagrantino, Umbria

TROON VINEYARD 2022 ‘Siskiyou’ Syrah, Applegate Valley, Oregon

CLENDENEN 2018 ‘Bricco Buon Natale’ Nebbiolo, Bien Nacido Vineyard, California

REINE PÉDAUQUE 1978 Savigny-lès-Beaune AOC 1er Cru Clos des Guettes, Burgundy

CA' LA BIONDA 2010 'CasalVegri' Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC, Veneto

MY TOP 10 APERITIF & DESSERT WINES

PATRICIUS 2008 Tokaj Aszú 6 Puttonyos, Hungary

Dom BELARGUS 2018 ‘Quarts’, Quarts-de-Chaume Grand Cru AOC, Chenin, Loire

DONNAFUGATA 2015 ‘Ben Ryé’ Passito di Pantelleria DOC, Zibibbo, Sicily

ROLET 2010 Arbois Vin Jaune AOC, Savagnin, Jura

CASTELLO DI MELETO 2011 Vin Santo di Chianti Classico, Toscana

BARBEITO 20yo Malvasia 'Ribeiro Real', Madeira

COCKBURNS 1997 Vintage Port

Dom BERTHET-BONDET 2009 Château-Chalon AOC Vin Jaune, Jura

MARCEL CABELIER 2008 Château-Chalon AOC Vin Jaune, Jura

THUNEVIN-CALVET 1982 Maury, Vin Doux Naturel, Grenache, Roussillon

HONOURABLE MENTIONS:

BUBBLES

LELARGE-PUGEOT 2008 Quintessence Millésime Brut, Vrigny 1er Cru, Champagne

EGLY-OURIET NV Brut Rosé Grand Cru, Ambonnay, Champagne

RIVETTO 2016 ‘Kaskal’ Blanc de Nebbiolo Brut Nature, Barolo, Piemonte

PETER LAUER 1992 Réserve Sekt Riesling, Mosel

MOVIA 2015 Puro, Brda, Slovenia

LELARGE-PUGEOT 2008 Millésime Extra Brut, Vrigny 1er Cru, Champagne

R.C. LEMAIRE 2012 ‘Les Hautes Prieures’ Blanc de Blancs, Hautvillers 1er Cru, Champagne

MONMARTHE NV 'Les Grimpants' Blanc de Noirs, Ludes 1er Cru, Pinot Noir, Champagne

ANDRE CLOUET NV ‘Un jour de 1911…’ Brut, Pinot Noir, Bouzy Grand Cru, Champagne

Dom STÉPHANE TISSOT NV ‘BBF’ Blanc de Blancs Crémant du Jura AOC

Dom MANN 2014 Crémant d’Alsace AOC ‘Infiniment Fou’, Chardonnay

ALBERT BICHOT NV Crémant de Bourgogne AOC Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

POMMERY 2004 Cuvée Louise, Champagne

LAURENT-PERRIER 2008 Millésimé Brut, Champagne

WHITES

France - Loire

Dom BELARGUS 2018 ‘Coteau des Treilles' Monopole, Chenin Blanc, Anjou AOC, Loire

Dom BELARGUS 2020 ‘Rouères’ Chenin Blanc, Sec, Anjou AOC, Loire

Dom BELARGUS 2019 ‘Gaudrets’ Chenin Blanc, Savennieres AOC, Loire

DAMIEN LAUREAU 2015 'Le Bel Ouvrage' Savennières AOC, Chenin Blanc, Loire

LUNEAU PAPIN 2010 ‘L d’Or’ Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, Loire

LUNEAU PAPIN 2007 ‘L d’Or’ Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, Loire

LUNEAU PAPIN 2006 ‘Excelsior’ Muscadet Sèvre et Maine AOC Goulaine, Loire

France - Burgundy & Jura

Dom HEITZ-LOCHARDET 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet AOC 1er Cru La Maltroie, Chardonnay

Dom BITOUZET-PRIEUR 2017 Meursault AOC 1er Cru Charmes, Chardonnay

Dom BITOUZET-PRIEUR 2017 Meursault AOC ‘Clos du Cromin’, Chardonnay

Dom BITOUZET-PRIEUR 2017 Puligny-Montrachet AOC ‘Les Levrons’, Chardonnay

Dom LATOUR-GIRARD 2017 Meursault AOC Cuvée Charles Maxime, Chardonnay

Dom DUREUIL-JANTHIAL 2020 Puligny Montrachet AOC ‘Corvée des Vignes’

Dom DEUX ROCHES 2021 Pouilly Fuissé AOC ‘Vieilles Vignes’

France - Alsace

Dom TRIMBACH 2007 ‘Clos Ste Hune’, Grand Cru Rosacker, Riesling

Dom WEINBACH 2012 ‘Cuvée Ste Catherine’, Pinot Gris

Dom ALBERT BOXLER 2014 Alsace Grand Cru AOC Brand, Pinot Gris

Dom TRIMBACH 2016 Alsace Grand Cru AOC Mandelberg, Riesling

France - Rhône

RAYMOND USSEGLIO 2017 ‘Pure Roussanne’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC Blanc

GRAND VENEUR 2004 ‘La Fontaine’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC Blanc, Roussanne

DOMAINE DE LA SOLITUDE 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC Blanc

Dom CHANTE CIGALE 2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC Blanc

France - Other

LELARGE-PUGEOT 2016 Vrigny Blanc, Coteaux Champenois AOC, Chardonnay

Dom STÉPHANE TISSOT 2018 ‘Les Graviers’ Chardonnay, Arbois AOC, Jura

Dom STÉPHANE TISSOT 2019 ‘Patchwork’ Chardonnay, Arbois AOC, Jura

Dom DES MARNES BLANCHES 2020 Savagnin ‘Les Molates’, Côtes du Jura AOC

Germany

SELBACH OSTER 2007 Graacher Domprost Riesling Spätlese, Mosel

DR. BÜRKLIN-WOLF 1997 Ruppertsberger Gaisböhl ‘R’ Riesling Aisles, Pfalz

HEXAMER 2010 Schlossböckelheimer In den Felsen Riesling ‘No.1’, Nahe

DÖNNHOFF 2015 Wessburgunder Trocken, Nahe

USA

HOPE WELL 2015 ‘Improbable’ Riesling, Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon

ALEX GAMBAL / PETER WORK 2017 Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay, California

ST. ROMEDIUS 2019 Napa Valley Chardonnay, California

TROON VINEYARD 2022 Vermentino, Applegate Valley, Oregon

TABLAS CREEK 2014 'Esprit Blanc' Roussanne/Gren.Blanc/Picpoul, Paso Robles, California

EVENING LAND 2022 ’Seven Springs’ Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon

CHATEAU MONTELENA 2019 Napa Valley Chardonnay, California

ST. INNOCENT 2017 'Freedom Hill Vineyard' Chardonnay, Willamette Valley

DELILLE CELLARS 2021 'Chaleur' Blanc, Sauv Blanc/Semillon, Columbia Valley, Washington

LIÉGEOIS DUPONT 2021 ‘Le Blanc’, Marsanne/Viognier, Red Mountain, Washington

CHAPPELLET 2015 Napa Valley Chardonnay, California

PATZ & HALL 2016 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, California

Canada

O'ROURKE FAMILY ESTATE 2020 Estate Chardonnay, Lake Country, Okanagan

CAVE SPRING 2004 ‘Réserve’ Riesling, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

TANTALUS 2020 ‘Old Vines’ Riesling, Okanagan Valley

PINARD & FILS 2021 ‘Nuance de Gris’ Frontenac Gris, Quebec

NORMAN HARDIE 2014 ‘Unfiltered’ Chardonnay, Prince Edward County, Ontario

Australia

LEEUWEN ESTATE 2002 ‘Art Series’ Chardonnay, Margaret River

TYRELL’S WINES 2013 ‘Single Vineyard HVD Hunter Semillon’

UMAMU 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, Margaret River

South Africa

KEN FORRESTER 2016 ‘The FMC’ Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch

HAMILTON RUSSELL 2014 Chardonnay, Hemel-en-Aarde

BOEKENHOUTSKLOOF 2007 Semillon, Franschhoek

Italy

DARIO PRINČIČ NV ‘Vino Bianco’, Friuli Venezia Giulia

SUAVIA 2017 ‘Monte Carbonare’ Soave Classico AOC, Garganega, Veneto

MARRAMIERO 2016 'Punta di Colle' Chardonnay, Colline Pescarese, Abruzzo

Other

LÓPEZ DE HEREDIA 2006 Viña Tondonia Reserva Blanco, Rioja DOCa, Spain

RAUL PÉREZ 2019 ‘Sketch’ Albariño, Rias Baixas DO, Spain

SOUS LE VÉGETAL NV ‘Octave’ Muscat, Samos, Greece

ALTAR ECO 2018 'Edad Media' Blanco, Chard/Chenin/Sauv Blanc, Uco Valley, Argentina

REDS

France - Bordeaux

Ch LE PUY 2010 Barthélemy, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux

Ch D’ISSAN 2009 Margaux AOC, Grand Cru Classé Troisième

Ch LANGOA-BARTON 2015 Saint-Julien AOC, Grand Cru Classé Troisième

Ch GRESSIER GRAND POUJEAUX 1983 Moulis-en-Médoc AOC

Ch FOURCAS HOSTEN 1983 Listrac-Médoc AOC

Ch CANTEMERLE 2019 Haut-Médoc AOC, Grand Cru Classé, Cinquième

France - Burgundy

Dom VINCENT LATOUR 2013 Meursault AOC 1er Cru Les Cras

CLOS DU MOULIN AUX MOINES 2020 Auxey-Duresses AOC ‘Clos du Moulin aux Moines’ Monopole

Dom BITOUZET-PRIEUR 2017 Volnay AOC 1er Cru Taillepieds

Dom BITOUZET-PRIEUR 2017 Volnay AOC 1er Cru Caillerets, Pinot Noir

Dom BITOUZET-PRIEUR 2017 Volnay AOC 1er Cru Clos des Chênes

Dom BITOUZET-PRIEUR 2017 Volnay AOC 1er Cru Pitures

ALBERT BICHOT 2018 Fixin AOC 1er Cru Clos de la Perrière Monopole

JEAN-CLAUDE RAMONET 2020 Monthelie AOC

France - Rhône

MICHEL COURTIAL 1986 Hermitage AOC, Syrah

ALAIN GRAILLOT 1991 Crozes-Hermitage AOC, Syrah

DOMAINE DE LA SOLITUDE 2020 ‘Vin de la Solitude’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC Rouge

MARTIN TEXIER 2021 'Cérouan Vieilles Vigne du Clau' Serrine

FRANCK BALTHAZAR 2020 Cornas AOC, Syrah

YVES CUILLERON 2011 Saint-Joseph AOC ‘L’Amarybelle’, Syrah

YVES CUILLERON 2016 Cornas ‘Les Côtes’, Syrah

Ch DE BEAUCASTEL 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC Rouge

XAVIER VIGNON 2010 ‘Cuvée Anonyme’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC Rouge

DOMAINE DU PEGAU 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe AOC Rouge, Rhône

France - Other

Dom DES MASQUES 2020 ‘Syrahdictive’, Syrah/Viognier, Provence

J.L. DENOIS 2019 Pinot Noir ‘Grand Vin’, Limoux

Dom BOBINET 2014 'Amatéüs Bobi' Saumur-Champigny, Cabernet Franc, Loire

Dom BONNET COTTON 2022 Beaujolais AOC Cru Brouilly, Gamay, Beaujolais

Dom STÉPHANE TISSOT 2018 ‘DD’ Rouge, Arbois AOC, Pinot Noir/Trousseau/Poulsard, Jura

Italy

ROAGNA 2011 ‘Pajè’ Barbaresco DOCG, Piemonte

CASA RAIA 2018 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Sangiovese Grosso, Toscana

È JAMU 2021 ‘Vertigine’ Canaiolo, Chianti, Toscana

CASA RAIA 2011 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Toscana

CASTELLO ROMITORIO 2007 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Toscana

MASI 1988 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG, Veneto

RIVETTO 2021 ‘Vigna Lirano’ Amphora Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC, Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo

ROCCHE DEI MANZONI 2015 Bricco Manzoni, Red Blend, Langhe, Piemonte

NINO NEGRI 2006 ‘5 Stelle Sfursat’, Nebbiolo, Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG, Lombardia

VILLA PAPIANO 2017 ‘I Probi’ Romagna Sangiovese Modigliana Riserva DOC, Emilia-Romagna

PLANETA 2013 ‘Santa Cecilia’ Noto DOC, Nero d’Avola, Sicily

FORADORI 2016 Sgarzon Teroldego, Alto Adige

SASSICAIA 2015 Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC, Toscana

Spain

ALVAR DE DIOS 2020 ‘Camino de los Arrieros’ Red Field Blend, Arribes

SIERRA DE TOLOÑO 2021 ‘La Dula Garnachas de Altura’ Grenache, Rioja Alavesa DOCa

SCALA DEI 2017 ‘Cartoixa de Scala Dei’ Priorat DOQ, Garnacha/Cariñena

LOPEZ DE HEREDIA 2007 Viña Bosconia Reserva Tinto, Rioja DOCa

COMANDO G 2018 ‘Bruja de Rosaz’ Garnacha, Sierra de Gredos

USA

HIYU 2019 ‘Moon Dog’, thirty different clones of heirloom Pinot Noir, Columbia Gorge, Oregon

MARGINS 2022 Counoise, Santa Clara Valley, California

GROUNDED WINE CO. 2021 ‘Steady State’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Oak Knoll District, Napa, California

BETZ FAMILY WINERY 2018 ‘Père de Famille’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, Washington

SKY 2015 Mt. Veeder Napa Valley Zinfandel, California

SKY 2015 Mt. Veeder Napa Valley Syrah, California

HOPE WELL 2019 ‘Sunday’s Child’ Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon

PURPLE HANDS 2021 Haakon Lenai Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Oregon

LITTORIA 2021 ‘The Pivot Vineyard’ Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California

DUMOL 2021 ‘Wester Reach’ Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, California

Australia

BONDAR 2020 ‘Rayner Vineyard’ Shiraz, McLaren Vale

ELDERTON 2018 Command Vineyard Shiraz, Barossa Valley

OCHOTA BARRELS 2017 ‘Fugazi Vineyard’ Grenache, McLaren Vale

Other

GARRAFEIRA 2011 ‘Sidónia de Sousa’ Baga, Bairrada DOC, Portugal

LE RICHE 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, South Africa

GREYSTONE VINEYARD 2020 ‘Ferment’ Pinot Noir, North Canterbury, New Zealand

BURN COTTAGE 2019 ‘Sauvage Vineyard’ Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand

GUT OGGAU 2017 ‘Atanasius’ Rot, Burgenland, Austria

SANTA RITA 1996 Casa Réal Cabernet Sauvignon, Maípo Valley DO, Chile

NICOLUZO 2013 Merlot, Corfu, Greece

HENRY OF PELHAM 2012 Baco Noir ‘Reserve’, Ontario, Canada

APERITIF & DESSERT WINES

Dom DES MARNES BLANCHES NV Blanc Macvin du Jura AOC, France

RABL 2017 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Langenlois DAC, Austria

Dom BELARGUS 2018 ‘Layon’ Moelleux, Chenin, Coteaux du Layon 1er Cru Chaume, France

BARBEITO 10yo Sercial Reserva Velha, Madeira, Portugal

BODEGA DIOS BACO ‘Baco Imperial’ 20 Year Old Amontillado Sherry VOS, Spain

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On Champagne. From Salvador Dali’s The Wines of Gala, text by Max Gérard. P.25.

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Francesco Traini (1321-1365), The Triumph of Death. Pisa.

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Noah’s Ark was made of Cypress.

The Arc of the Covenant was made of Acacia.

The temple was made of Cedar.

The differences are likely meaningless.

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Io; Europa; Ganymede; Callisto

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Asaro Mudmen

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Mystery flower in the garden

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Roberto Calasso

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Laughter is in general stronger and better at cutting down great objects than is acidity. — Horace

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Otto Dix

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The Last Prom Queen in Antarctica by Ocean Vuong

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Boy

He found himself kneeling in mud

And asked the river for forgiveness.

The river punished him with silence.

His whole life it had consumed him,

The fear of doing it wrong, and now—

He walked among the trees

Like a gallery, uncertain where to start.

Afraid of looking at them wrong or in

The wrong order. His whole life

Even the streamlets, the streamlets had

Shied from him like mice. He _____

To be _____. In the clearing the dew

Evaporates. The grass looks dull, dutiful.

One by one, the components of feeling

Slide around his body without touching his

Body. His body is a snow globe. His thoughts

Snow. In him on him falls the snow. He is

Buried, utterly, like the sea is buried by rain.

Annelyse Gelman

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