joancoyeiceland

[joancoyeiceland]

It’s a wrap.

March 22, 2018

Just barely a new day (3 am) we head from our lovely apartment to the airport.  Looking out the bus window into the dark rainy night, we bid farewell to Iceland, thanking it for the fascinating volcanic moonscape terrains, waterfalls and geysers, hot springs and humpbacks.  Thankful most of all for God’s creation to witness in the company of those I love.

Paris....we’re headed back!

[joancoyeiceland]

A HUMPBACK!!

March 21, 2018

Enjoying a vacation mode morning of sleeping in and making a nice lunch before our tour, topped off with desert of a seasick pill.  The nearby harbor was quiet, with most shops along the boardwalk closed for winter.  Summer must be a zoo here with Puffin tours, bike outfitters, diving trips and horseback offerings.  Whale watching is a year round opportunity as the bay is a feeding ground in the summer and home in the winter for juvenile and non-mating female whales.

Another cold grey day with intermittent rain, low clouds, and a peek of the sun just every now and then.  The seas and winds were mild outside our cozy booth in the hull. First task at hand was donning “the suit”.  Stylish red jumpsuits that act as a flotation devices and outerwear were provided to all, and following a 30 min cruise the merry band of Santas lined the deck…..all eyes to the sea. 

The chief lookout instructed us in whale spotting clues:  Look for large dark objects in the water (duh); for areas of sea that are either flat or going the opposite way of the waves; and for spouts of water that can be anywhere from 1-30ft. tall  (that one seems hard to miss?!); lastly, look for flocking birds above the water surface (indicating a feeding).   They don’t use any type of radar detector to assist in finding the whales as it may interfere with their echolocation.

Poised at the bow, scanning the surface from horizon to shore on starboard and port, we waited……and there it was, at 1:00…..a water spout!!  The vessel cruised in the direction of the spout and announcement went out to all those still below, that action was commencing.

Sure enough, the spout sightings led us to our first visual of the humpback whale breaching the water to reveal its head, fin and back.  One, two, three such breaches for breath, then the coup de grace…. A full body breach with a tail flip!  The guide explained that the tail flip indicated that the beast was commencing a deep dive and we’d have to scan further for 5-7 min to spot it again.

For the next 30-40 min we followed the mammoth mammal through the sea, gasping and marveling at each breach, as it gracefully cut through the surface…..spouting, arching and bending atop the waves, and signaling a dive with a flip of the fluke.

Majestic. Magnificent.  A grand and graceful creature.

[joancoyeiceland]

The Blue Lagoon

March 20, 2018

A relaxing morning exploring the old city and the waterfront.  A magnificent metalic Viking boat sculpture by the sea, quaint shops and the fresh chilly Icelandic air were highlights.  

Next, off to the Blue Lagoon, a geothermal spa situated in the middle of a lava field outside Reykjavick.  The geothermal water is 102 degrees and contains rejuvenating minerals, algae and silica. It appears as a whitish blue pool emitting steam into the chilly air.

We wandered through a path, walled by lava rock, and came upon the milky  water... a surreal contrast.  We entered the spa, acquired bathing suits and towels, and headed to the prep area.  A shower was required and a layer of conditioner applied to my hair (to prevent frizzing) before heading down to the relaxation area. 

The pool was a grand steamy labyrinth of bridges, grottos, a waterfall, silica mud area and bar.  We all applied silica masks, explored the venue and paused for long soaks in the particularly warm spots.  The black craggy lava rocks surrounding the pool and the haze of steam gave the feel of having landed on the moon.

True to the claims, my skin was indeed soft as silk at the end of our time.  Back in Reykjavik we had my birthday dinner in the old town and slept  like babies after the Blue Lagoon experience.

[joancoyeiceland]

The Golden Circle

March 19, 2018

A short night and off to tour the Golden Circle, a 140 mile circular route that includes three of Iceland’s most unique sights. First stop on the luxury bus tour, Þingvellir, the mainland’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site.  This is not only where the tectonic plates are pulling apart creating a rift valley, but also the birthplace of the Althing, the world’s longest-running democratic parliament since 930 AD.

A hike down the rift, treading on black volcanic rocks along the high craggy wall of the North American plate.  Across the gulf, which is filled in by magma and covered with water to appear a lake, is the Eurasian plate.  Rugged beauty evident in the contrast of the dark tiered vertical rift and barren rocky ground, falling into the ice lined rushing river.  Pretty spectacular!

Deeper in the interior, Gullfoss, a horseshoe shaped waterfall cascades into narrow Hvítárgljúfur canyon.  After a picnic lunch in the cozy cafe we ventured onto the trail to the falls.  Icelandic weather is notoriously mercurial, which we experienced in a light rain that turned to pin sized sleet, then added an element of snow to be followed by a clearing and glimpse of the sun.....all on a 30 min walk.  We were soaked and frozen by the time we reached the falls, but so enthralled as to barely notice.  Power, beauty and energy in the immense falls encased in the glacial scene yielded memorable moments. (and great pics)

Onward to the Geysir geothermal area alive with bubbling mudpots, steam vents and Geysir, the namesake of all geysers.  As if viewing the beginnings of the world, the primitive barren ground bubbled, oozed and spit boiling water and steam.  We waited with the other onlookers for the eruption of the most regular geyser and were rewarded every 5-7 min by a 30 foot tower of steam and scalding water.  Iceland’s answer to Old Faithful did not disappoint.

A brief stop made at the Faxi waterfall and its fish ladder, which allows salmon to “climb” upstream then back to Reykjavik.  A several hour regrouping at the apartment and three of us were back on the quest for the Northern Lights.

Suffice to say.....after 3 hours of bus riding to chase the forecasted clear spots for the lights, the guide declared our situation “hopeless”.  Bummer.  Strike two.

[joancoyeiceland]

A Paris departure.

March 18, 2018

This journey has a magical start, from Paris, snowy Paris... Parker arrives, pulling her bag up rue Lepic....wearing shorts?! and the flurries begin, as if to greet her. After settling in the apartment we venture up the hill, destination Sacre Coeur.

Why a delicate coat of white enlivens an already storybook scene, I’m not sure.   The cafe’s seem more charming, the scent of baking baguettes more intense and the electricity of what is Paris heightened through the snowflakes.

Majestic queen of Paris, Sacre Coeur, waits in position at the  peak of the city,  her crown invisible in the low hanging snow clouds.  Breathing in the chilled air we bask in the essence of the unusual scene, taking lots os photos.  We continue our stroll through Montmartre and back to the apartment to pack for Iceland.

We arrive in Reykjavik, seamlessly connecting with Brady (who arrived from Orlando earlier) and on the bus to our Airbnb.  A charmingly apartment in the heart of the old city with all the modern appointments.  The nearby grocery store provides our first sample of Icelandic culture and a light dinner.

Mission for night:  The Northern Lights.  I scheduled this quest for the first night, as these lights can be elusive, and if not found, the tour allows you to return each night until you do!  And it’s a good thing.....as we had only a minimal sighting: one long green streak from the bus window.  Most of the evening was spent in a field an hour or so outside the city (and  yes it was cold).  Despite several hours pacing and gazing heavenward, the cloud cover yielded no lights.  The highlight of the evening was warming up in the farm cafe with a glass of red wine and an Icelandic waffle.