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Day 11: Seville Alcazar & Cathedral

Southern Spain continues sunny and hot offering us another day to experience historical sites and local culture. The Royal Alcazar of Seville, a historic royal palace was formerly the site of the Islamic-era citadel of the city, begun in the 10th century. Unlike other buildings which have transitioned from Moore and Jewish to Christian hands, the structure and ornamentation of this Alcazar are firmly Arabic and have little overlayed Christian symbology.

Tapas and Tinto de Verano (fresh Sangria) comprised the lunch menu as we enjoyed the shade and a moment of rest. The Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, better known as Seville Cathedral, is a Catholic cathedral and former mosque and UNESCO site. It is the largest Gothic church in the world whose the original minaret converted into a bell tower. It felt much like Notre Dame of Paris, towering over the city center of Seville.

A successful afternoon of shopping followed by a siesta and first attempts to pack everything into our existing luggage capacity. El Disparate, a Michelin Star Bibb Gourmet choice for dinner was excellent! On a lively square in the Alameda neighborhood, we enjoyed: Sevillian Florida goat cheese with organic lavender honey for a starter, Pumpkin risotto with duck magret and Iberian pork shoulder with mushrooms, semolina and carrot purée, surpassed only by the carrot cake with yogurt foam.....deliciosa!!

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Day 10: Museo de Bellas Artes & Flamenco Show

As we are staying in Old Town Seville, most things are a 10-15 min walk, with the Museo de Bellas Artes being no exception. Our stroll this morning included a stop for café con leche and Spanish scrambled eggs which included spinach, garlic and Iberian ham cubes. En route to the museum, we swung by the Triana Market to purchase more gifts of Saffron and Smoked Paprika for cooks at home.

The Museo de Bellas Artes, founded in 1839, contains a collection of works from medieval times through the early 20th century. Formally an elegant convent with ornately sculpted ceilings, it displays an impressive collection of Spanish art and sculpture.

Under an umbrella table aside the river, we enjoyed a refreshing drink and tapas for lunch.

Our afternoon Olive Oil Tasting experience comprised of an exquisite selection of oils crafted by the finest olelogists in Andalusia and led by Andreas our Master engineer and Olelogist. He taught us about the history and cultural significance of olives and why they are so abundantly grown in this region and about the smells and tastes the distinguish the delectable aromas of the oils that come from olives grown and harvested here in southern Spain. Much like with wines, we warmed, swirled, sipped, slurped and tasted the flavors across our palates. With 4 types of olive oils to sample, we differentiated between Green & Mature; Sweet & Spicy; Fruity & Vegetagle-like characteristics of each. By the end of the tasting we could definitely differentiate between the cooking grade and extra virgin top quality varieties.

An evening of fresh fruits, Manchego cheese and nuts, all purchases from the Triana market, gave us some down time before our evening show at La Casa del Flamenco. Triana is the birthplace of Flamenco, and the evening's performance highlighted the true nature of flamenco, bringing to mind the patios of neighbors' houses where family members and friends come together to improvise song and dance. The cast was comprised of guitarist, two vocalists, one male dancer and one female dancer engaged in a spontaneous lively display of emotion, physicality and music. Castanets are now on our shopping list!

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Day 9: Ronda & the White Villages

Another gloriously sunny 95 degree day full of beautiful sights and a true taste of the Andalusian countryside. Once outside Seville, the sunflower fields covered miles of rolling hills, interspersed with newly harvested wheat plots. As we approached Zahara de la Sierra the terrain transitioned to foothills dotted with olive orchards.

Zahara, perched on a mountain, overlooking a valley and man-made resevoir is considered to be one of the pueblos blancos or "white towns" because the overwhelming majority of the buildings are white. We explored the remains of a Moorish castle still existing, as it was ruled by Arabs until 1407. The climb to the castle summit was steep and a bit strenuous, but every bit worth the view!

Back in the Fiat to Ronda, known for its cliffside location and a deep canyon that carries the Guadalevin River and for the Plaza de Toros, one of Spain's oldest bull fighting rings. A delicious lunch including gazpacho and tomato salad was a light refreshing interlude before continuing our exploration of the old city center.

Setenil de las Bodegas, our last white village of the day grew out of a network of caves in the cliffs and boasts blinding white houses which seem to emerge from the rocks - some having rock roofs and others with olive groves on their roofs!

The two hour return drive brought more scenic views of the Sierra Nevada Mountain range, rolling plains, olive groves, wheat and sunflower fields. What a day of soaking in nature and beauty!

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Day 8: Cordoba!

The challenge of maneuvering our tiny Fiat out of Seville preceded an hour and a half scenic drive to Cordoba. Through the foothills of the Morena mountains and alongside hillsides of bailed hay, sunflower fields and olive groves we arrived at this important Roman city and a major Islamic center in the Middle Ages. Cordoba was once a spot of peaceful coexistence of three different cultures: Jews, Muslims and Christians and presents today with a melange of the three.

 The Alcázar of Córdoba, a medieval fortress located in the historic centre of Córdoba, served as one of the primary residences of Isabella I of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon. Though the inside was a bit underwhelming, the gardens were magnificent! Afterwards: lunch and a stroll through colorful village lanes lined with all varieties of potted flowers.

Highlight of the day: La Mezquita, an immense mosque (turned cathedral) dating from 784 A.D., featuring a columned prayer hall and older Byzantine mosaics. In 1236 it became a Catholic church and many icons, knaves, and Christian symbols were applied over the stunning Moorish architecture. The original minaret was converted to a bell tower and courtyard added to this now UNESCO World Heritage Centre.

Another 94 degree day full of history, architecture, art, nature and culture resulted in ending our day with a wine and cheese dinner on the couch. Very satisfying : )

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Day 7: Cooking Class, Triana Market & Plaza de España

In preparation for our cooking class we learned about local specialties, farming practices and a bit of history while exploring Seville’s historic Triana Market (Mercado de Triana). Smoked paprika and Saffron, Cabrales (Spanish blue cheese) and Manchego cheeses, Iberian hams and Olive oils ,as well as an abundance of fresh colorful produce spilled from the stalls.

Our three course lunch, supervised by a local chef included Spanish signature dishes of : Gazpacho, Spinach & Chick pea tapas and Paella from Seville. Our group eagerly followed instructions while sipping freshly made Sangria, chopping, dicing, sautéing and blending the fresh market ingredients. The anticipation of a delectable gustation heightened as the aroma of simmering paella filled the kitchen and the final feast did not disappoint! The satisfying meal was topped off with a lemon-mint sorbet sipped from champagne glasses...a fitting and refreshing close to an excellent meal.

A half hour walk, in what had become a scorching afternoon (93degrees) along the Guadalquivir River led us to the lush Park de Maria Luisa with its enormous banyon trees, palms and winding paths. The Plaza de España, built for the 1929 Expo, sits as the center and has been featured in films Star Wars and Lawrence of Arabia.

We now understand the Spanish siesta tradition and returned to the apartment for the same. On an evening stroll through the neighborhood we stumbled on a local Catholic parade, complete with high school bands, youth carrying 4' long lit candles, and an ornate float of the Virgin Mary being carried by six men in suits. Quite a site and a lovely taste of the local culture.

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Day 6: To Seville & Flamenco Dancing

Successfully assembling new purchases into already full suitcases, we caught a late morning train from Madrid to Seville. The comfortable three hour ride saw a 10+ degree temperature change and we exited to a sunny 85 degree day.

Getting bold, this second half of the trip is going to involve a rental car and driving the Andalusian countryside - but first a stop to check in to our next apartment-hotel in the old city center of Seville. Lunch of a pitcher of Sangria, accompanied by a crisp nutty salad and mushroom risotto was delightful under the umbrella of a sidewalk café. A walk in our lively, shop filled neighborhood followed by a rest proceeded our evening plans.

Flamenco dance originates from Andalusian gypsy culture, and is focused on evoking and communicating passion, love, sadness, despair, joy, and more. This Spanish dance recognized as a symbol of Spain's identity and accordingly we had to give it a try. Our teacher was a lovely and patient dancer who stars in one of the local shows. She expertly instructed us in elegant writhing hand movements (flora), in footwork, stomping and clapping techniques. At the end of the session we performed a short routine. Very fun!

After travel, exploring and dancing we were exhausted and decided to get a few groceries and relax for the evening (even though sunset was not until 9:35 and it was very light out),

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Day 5: Àvila & Segovia

Ávila, "land of Saints & Stones", and UNESCO World Heritage City boasts a complete medieval city wall started in the 11th century, and it is the birthplace of one of the most revered and influential Catholic saints: St Theresa of Avila. A great mystic, revered woman of the Roman Catholic Church, author of spiritual classics, she is most noted for originating the Carmelite reform which restored a contemplative and austere life to the order.

Our tour of the basilica and birthplace of St. Theresa included a viewing of her relics: the shroud she was buried in, the souls of her sandals and most "interestingly" her preserved finger, complete with a ring attached?!

Following a scenic 45 min bus ride we exited the bus to the Aqueduct of Segovia juxtaposed against the medieval city. The monumental and well preserved structure is an engineering feat constructed with 25.000 granite blocks and no mortar.

Segovia is also noted for its gastronomy, in particular roast suckling pig (20 days old or less) and Judión Granja bean soup. We passed on the pig, but thoroughly enjoyed the bean soup!

In existence since at least the 12th century, one of the most renowned medieval castles globally and one of the most visited landmarks in Spain, the Alcázar of Segovia towers majestically over the city. Home to twenty-two Kings, including Prince Philip II and Queen Isabella (parents of Catherine of Aragon - King Henry VIII's first wife) it is both military fortress and sumptuous castle...very impressive indeed!

One curious fact about Segovia and the surrounding area: it is home to a large population of white storks. Enormous nests atop tall pines were prevalent and we viewed parents and young storks from our ground view.

The many stairs and steps were forgotten as we relaxed for a night in of Spanish white, Manchego cheese and a few chocolate treats, followed by packing.

Madrid has been truly magical!

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Day 4: Reina Sofia Museum

Home to a large collection of modern and contemporary Spanish art renowned throughout the world, Reina Sofia holds works by Dalí, Miró and Juan Gris. The Cubist and Surrealist collections were excellent and the museum's masterpiece, Guernica truly impressive. This large 1937 oil painting by Spanish artist Pablo Picasso is one of his best-known works, and regarded by many art critics as the most moving and powerful anti-war painting in history.

Espadrills, Spanish fashion, and marzipan treats were a few of our shopping targets along the route to our next stop.

Located in the heart of Madrid for over 100 years, the Mercado de San Miguel stands out as one of the world’s main gastronomic markets. The finest selection of tapas, paella, Iberian hams and gourmet cheeses were tempting for lunch, but the crowds so dense, we decided to merely window shop.

On a quiet side street we soaked in the sun and enjoyed some tapas, salads and delicious Spanish wine. Next on the agenda, a scenic stroll to Plaza de España and its lovely sculptures, fountains and green space... coincidentally located by the world's largest Zara?!

Step count exceeding 12,000 thus far for the day, we retired to the apartment for a bit of relaxation.

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Day 3 : Toledo & Winery Casa del Valle

An hour outside Madrid, nestled along the Tagus River, lies the UNESCO World Heritage city, Toledo. A former capital city, Toledo is known as the "city of three cultures" for its historical Christian, Muslim and Jewish roots.

As we approached the city on a hill, our bus stopped for a breathtaking view of the river, cityscape and surrounding countryside. Our walking tour wound us along narrow cobble stone alleyways as we learned of the numerous multi cultural/religious transitions since its inception around 572. A highlight was the 13th century High Gothic Cathedral surrounded by the lively town square. A truly charming city.

Enjoying the arid landscapes dotted with olive groves and grape vines, we rode 30 min to the Bodega Casa del Valle winery. A modern vineyard with new plantings from the 1970's and complete use of mechanical harvesting and wine production, it also offered top quality olive oils produced from the surrounding groves. Greeted with a sweet fizzy glass, we toured the vines outside and the interior processing area full of enormous steel vats and barrels. The tasting of a dry Chardonnay and equally dry Syrah was accompanied by a small charcuterie plate....delicious!

A brief rest and regroup at the apartment then off for a bite at one of the oldest Tapas Bars in town, founded in 1892: Bodega de la Ardosa. A couple glasses of vino blanco, shrimp croquettes and grilled artichoke to die for! No kidding, that was the best dish ever.....delicious!!

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Day 2: Madrid Bike Tour & the Prado

E bikes carried us through the gorgeous Retiro Park with its fountains, tree lined paths and rose garden....just exquisite! Other highlights included views of the Cibeles Fountain, bustling squares of Puerto del Sol and Plaza Mayor and the neighborhoods of Malasaña and Barrio de las Letras. The Royal Palace of Madrid, the largest royal palace in Western Europe flanked by the Madrid Opera and Madrid Cathedral were tops among the historical buildings on our tour. We even enjoyed delicious hot churros en route...yummm!

The Museum del Prado filled our afternoon with it's collection of European art, dating from the 12th century to the early 20th century. Founded in 1819, the Prado houses the single best collection of Spanish art and numerous works by Francisco Goya. One of our favorites was Goya's "La Maja Desnuda".

The Grand Via was on our way home and stop by Zara and Mango were very productive : ). A bit of Tempranillo and some Spanish cheese for a lite bite then to bed early.

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Day 1 Arrival Madrid

A smooth morning start to our trip, matching up at the Madrid airport - Evanne coming from Orlando, me from Paris. By 11am we arrived at the Arenal Suites Grand Via to drop off our bags at the spacious apartment in old town Madrid before heading to the huge Sunday El Rastro Market. In place since 1740 the market included over 1000 vendor stalls. Depending on which area we walked through, we will found items ranging from handicrafts, clothes, sunglasses and jewelry, to kitchen items, vintage clothes, and antiques.

With a few key finds in our bags (yellow trench coat for me and crochet vest for E) we took a break with some Spanish Red wine and tostadas. A short nap at the new apartment gave use just enough of a second wind to enjoy a trendy neighborhood wine bar followed by a lovely Spanish restaurant for the evening meal.