joshanethailand

[joshanethailand]

Week Two: Phuket Town

18/04/2017: Heading to town

It was our last morning at the resort. We took our last opportunity for a swim in the pool and hung out the swimmers to dry. After packing most of our things, it was down to reception to confirm our departure and transport to Casa Blanca in Old Phuket Town.

We followed a reasonable breakfast of omelettes and juice etc., the first breakfast for Shane for several days, with a final swim in the bay. Whereas previously there was ample water for a decent swim if one swam out a distance, this was our first low tide swim and six inches of mud oozed between our toes all the way out. Shane swam out one hundred metres hoping to find some depth but it was only four-foot deep. We gave up.

Not to be deterred, a short dip in the main pool amid the sour Ruskies ended up a precursor to the bar and a couple of cocktails of the day. The drink was something with coconut milk and tasted ok. It was before 11 and too early for freebies so we had to pay half price for them. The Ruskies were hanging around the bar like a bad smell and as soon as the clock struck eleven and drinks were free, the barmen were inundated with orders and the day had begun. We however had bigger fish to fry.

Leaving the bar behind, it was back for a shower and to put the finishing touches on the luggage. It was just as well as the "bellboys" were knocking on the door for our bags by a quarter to twelve and we weren't ready. Our bags were pretty well done though so we told them to take the suit cases and we would walk to the reception where we checked out, filled out questionnaire and paid a bill of just over ฿500. Pretty good we thought.

We gave the resort our full tick of approval. Excellent for most. Food good, maid good (even though at one point we had seven rolls of hand towels and one of toilet paper which at that point we needed the most), everything good. The salient point came in the last question. How could we make your experience better? We had no answer as we couldn't really criticise the place. Plenty had, but were mostly whingers. Jo put that a bucket of water at the door would be good to rinse our feet.

We headed straight down to the boat and left the jetty at 12.15 on the dot after a late influx of Chinese and Aussies.

Departure boat

Within no time, we were at the Laem Hin pier, in a taxi and heading for Phuket town where, after being dropped off at the front of Casa Blanca and directly across from the Rasta Café, we found ourselves in a déjà vu moment. We were unknowingly on the front steps of the Casa Blanca and across from the Rasta Café during Songkran, a few days earlier.

Casa Blanca Boutique Hotel

Casa Blanca was an impressive old hotel from another era. We had a choice of a room with a balcony at the front which was the noisy rooms (traffic and Rasta Café until one) or inward facing quieter rooms. We chose the latter. Following check-in, we were shown to our room via the lift, and hit a snag. We were both in the lift with Jo's carryon bag and big handbag packed to bursting point. The overload siren went off, too much weight. The girl asked for Jo's carryon bag and we were ok, the lift worked. That could have been embarrassing.

Our neighbours, the Rasta Café

We sort of settled in for a bit and after spending half an hour putting our clothes in the cupboard and setting up for music and chargers etc., headed out to look around the streets. The concierge produced a rudimentary map, rattled off the sites worth visiting nearby and suggested a local massage joint that for only a few dollars would sort out all of our problems. As soon as we hit the footpath we headed toward Kim's massage to see what was on offer before turning back and heading straight to the chemist for some Delhi Belly pills. We ended up with antibiotics.

The chemist was on the corner of Thalang Road so as soon as we got our drugs we headed along the footpath looking mainly at fabrics and clothing as well as trinkets and other rubbish. Obviously, we were in the tourist area as nothing was cheap (not expensive neither). A short distance on we passed a guy selling old wares and found some Thai number plates. Jo reckoned that they were fake as there were two plates with the same number. Strange that. One for each end of the car maybe?? We let it go and moved on.

Let the shopping begin

After a few hundred metres of walking down Thalang Road, we turned left and left again ending up in Phang Nga Road. A short distance on was the magnificent Phuket Post Office, a commanding white structure whose grandeur represented its once prosperous past. Here, we again turned and found a side street that terminated with a mall which from a distance looked interesting so we headed in. On closer inspection it was not. Two shops, one selling tourist clothes on one side and a small supermarket on the other was all that was there so we bought a few provisions and headed back.

Not before Jo seen a “Creative” 24hr tailor and wanted to price a dress for the wedding. It was run by Indians and looked expensive. Jo asked some unanswerable questions like how much will it cost for a dress? "I don’t know madame unless you choose a fabric", and how much will it cost with this fabric? "I don’t know madame unless you choose a style". By this time Shane had moved on and Jo soon joined him with an estimate of seven to fifteen thousand Baht. Sounds reasonable she said. Do the math Jo. That’s almost $600.

Right next door were a couple of local tailors working with a treadle Singer under a canvas canopy. Shane had a look and suggested that Jo try these people. The lady, although with absolutely no English, could communicate enough to get her message across, drew the design of a dress on paper. Vee or round neck, sleeves or no sleeves basic shape and length. We looked through the fabric samples and chose a grey. ฿1300 and ready in two days. Fine, we'll go with that. If it didn't work we were not much out of pocket. We offered ฿500 as good will and everyone was happy.

Measuring up

Back onto Ratsada Road and straight back to Casa Blanca was the intention, but before we could reach there, Jo diverted to the Rasta Café. Shane dropped off the day's goodies and joined her shortly after. The place had interesting prices, ฿150 for a beer and ฿150 for all cocktails, so after one beer we were onto the cocktails.

First beer at the Rasta Café

The café dinner menu didn’t interest us too much leading Jo to look for a place not far for dinner, Club No.43 which her phone told us was close, so she picked it up on Google Maps and we headed there. Back down where we had walked earlier in the day. Upon walking into the place and asking for food, a rather tall Kazakh that identified as a Russian (Kazakhs like to fight) said that this was a cocktail bar and served cocktails only. Ok then we'll have a cocktail. They were more expensive here, Aussie prices but they were pretty good, firstly a Japanese slipper for Jo and an Old Fashioned for Shane followed up but a Jup Jup and a Rusty Nail. The search then resumed for food.

Club No.43

We headed back to a Japanese restaurant that we had passed earlier, entered and were shown to a table with a hole in the middle, not unlike a Korean barbeque. We ordered Miso soup, a couple of plates of Japanese vegetables, some fried rice and plates of lamb and beef along with a 300ml bottle of sake. Shortly after, the coals turned up in a mesh based container, carried by a rather short but muscular character whose sole task seemed to be to ensure that the tables were readily supplied with ample heat to cook. Then the food appeared and we were off and running. Excellent meal with not much left but we probably could have done with only half of the vegetables. When we were finally finished, the bill came to ฿1185, or a bit over $40. The Yakiniku Koku was cheap as and a good feed.

Forty bucks worth

Upon leaving the restaurant we ended back at the Rasta Café again, tempted across from the return to our room and recommenced cocktails again. Heaps cheaper than Club No.43 but nowhere near as good. Still, you get what you pay for. Soon after we got there a guitarist started singing classic hits reggae style. He was very good and took requests. Jo asked for Cats in the Cradle of which he obliged. About an hour into his routine he was joined by a female and they played together singing great music.

The Cat’s in the Cradle

By 10 pm it was time to hit the sack so we left to get some sleep.

Tomorrow, who knows?

 19/04/2017: Gently, gently

We both struggled to get up this morning due to sickness from lingering Deli Belly overnight. Little sleep and another hard bed saw us both sleeping in but with Jo up first, pottering around until Shane arose. It was eleven before we left the hotel for a look around, with no breakfast, and no hunger.

The first port of call was the chemist again but this time for pills that would supress vomiting and the runs. For $12 it was more than value. The anti-spewing pills cost $50 back home.

Next step was to head down Thalang Road again for another look around. The first step was to buy a cheap shirt to save ironing and plenty were available after Songkran. Everybody wore Hawaiian shirts and there were plenty left. Following that come the second-hand guy where Shane bought a number plate to go out the back.             ฿300 bought a red plate from a province to the north. He didn’t say which one but emphasised that it was not Phuket. A bit of Google Translate later determined that พังงา was Thai for Phang Nga, where we were headed in a few days to the elephant sanctuary.

The colourful shophouses of Thalang Rd

Further down the road saw a bit of a commotion with a van parked at the kerb and the footpath blocked with people and photographers. It ended up being a few young women dressed to the nines and contesting the Miss Grand Phuket competition. They were all lovely and sucking up the attention on Thalang Road and just around the corner in Soi Rommanee, the once red light district for the many Chinese labourers who came to work the tin mines.

Miss Grand Phuket contestants

Since we were in Soi Rommanee we kept walking through to Dibuk Road, put about and promptly headed back. Partially along the lane we happened across an interesting ice cream shop which was pretty full. Not bad we commented so we stuck our heads in and luckily found the last table in Torry’s Ice Cream Shop. Crammed into a corner with menu in hand didn’t bother us as we were in air conditioning rather than the sweat shop outside. We hunkered down for a cool break, both externally and after we ordered a Banoffee and an Apple Crumbles, cool within.

Apple Crumbles and a new shirt

The next stop was a local museum further down Thalang Road (which turned into Krabi Road) which was once the local Chinese-language school. The Thai Hua Museum gave the history of the island from when the Chinese started to arrive after the mining of tin commenced. It never really gave the history beforehand. It also extolled the virtues and work ethic of the Chinese and their descendants, particularly the business leaders that shaped the future of the island through trade and education. It seemed that the progression of society only happened if you were Chinese or part Chinese. There was not much mention of Thai if there was no Chinese blood in them so it would have been a little skewed in its interpretation of the islands history. At least that is how we saw it.

Thai Hua Museum

After the museum, we returned to the room. Jo was feeling the bug taking hold and the humidity was taking effects. Upon arrival she rested while Shane went shopping to stock up on water and tea bags. We tried our first cup of tea this morning and only green tea was available.

A wander around the streets before heading to the market fortunately revealed a little gem of an area. Drawn by an ornate archway into an elaborate narrow entryway (it used to be narrower) Shane was led to Sang Tham Shrine a recently refurbished shrine that was full of warriors and carvings that had been affected by years of incense burning. The signs said no photos and no shoes. He did neither as he was closely watched by the monks or minders or whoever they were. No donation neither.

Sang Tham Shrine off Phang Nga Road

Upon return to the hotel, it was time to head out to look around a bit more and have a feed. The first for the day and in the opposite direction along Thalang Road we strode until we hit the Golden Dragon and veered left into 72nd Anniversary Queen Sirikit Park.

Statue of the Golden Dragon

It must have been seniors’ day as there were oldies everywhere. Kicking this plastic ball in the air, tai chi type stuff, some sort of yoga-ish exercise and some slow, slow dancing. Quite interesting though as we commented that some of the old darlings (or probably most) are probably in better shape than us. No hip replacements needed in their group.

No hip replacements here

We moved amongst them until we got to the end of the park, crossed the road and entered the Indy Markets. Not much here though unless you’re a younger person looking for clothes, watches, jewellery etc. At the end there was a pretty good food markets full of stalls offering a great variety of food. We had to leave there though as the smells didn't agree with Jo.

Market entrance

Escaping the odours, we headed back down Thalang Road where Jo bought a couple of sarong type things. We ended up finding ourselves at Bar No.43 again with our Kazakh barman, Alexey. No names for the cocktails this time, he just invented them as he went. All was good but after a couple we had to leave. It was dinner time.

We ended back at the Japanese joint again for a similar feed as last night but prawns involved. Again good, ฿850 but we need a change for tomorrow night.

On the return to Casa Blanca we stopped for another shirt and picked up a couple of travel brochures for Phi Phi Islands and James Bond Island. As soon as Jo reckons she's up to it we'll book them in. Time is running out though.

Thalang Road at night

Tomorrow, who knows (again).

20/04/2017: More culture than a jar of yoghurt

We were both feeling a lot better this morning. The drugs must be working. So much so that we were confident enough to book some day tours to Phi Phi Islands and Phang Nga Bay, the home of James Bond Island. Checking out the internet revealed some good tours still. This was important as we effectively have only two days left available considering we're booked into the elephants on Sunday. Over a good breakfast of eggs, tea and coffee, we decided that the Phi Phi Islands was the go and that the James Bond Islands would be next. Bellies full we climbed the stairs to the corridor that led to our room to book the tour.

The open corridor of Casa Blanca

The best tour seemed to be a Siam Adventure Tours one day trip. It was too late to book online so we phoned to see if there was still room but got no reply. Just a message promising to phone us back within half an hour. We had no luck with the James Bond Island tour as well. We had left it too late.

With time ticking away we found ourselves leaving the room earlier than anticipated as the driver we had booked at breakfast had turned up to take us around to some of the landmarks. We had asked the girl at the desk how to get around as it was a good opportunity to visit the Big Buddha somewhere to the south and a temple or two. She recommended that their driver take us around for half a day to some of the sites nearby.

First stop Wat Chalong, a Buddhist temple complex at Chalong. The driver dropped us off just inside the entrance and gave us an hour to look around. The place was considerable, both in architecture and size.

Formerly named Wat Chaiyathararam, Wat Chalong is the largest and most popular of Phuket’s Buddhist temples. Built during the nineteenth century, the temple was founded by, amongst others, two monks named Luang Pho Cham and Luang Pho Chuang. These characters famously led and patched up locals who were fighting the Chinese rebellion that occurred almost a century and a half ago.

Entrance to Wat Chalong

Where to start? The first impression was how noisy the place was. Every few minutes a series of fire crackers were let off, echoing off of the buildings and through the streets.

We headed towards the racket for a few metres and had a quick look at the façade of the ubosot immediately before us, the most revered of all buildings on site and closed to the public.

The ubosot

After avoiding a few vehicles, we veered left to a bell tower which could be climbed for a better overall view. Further on found us outside the wat’s main hall containing three statues of monks with plenty of people before them kneeling to pray and sticking gold leaf on them. To the front was the source of the noise overseen by a number of elephant statues, two large named Jumpee and Plykaew and plenty of small. The source was a kiln where the crackers were thrown by a couple of locals who had the sidecar of their motor scooter stocked with supplies. The kiln was continually in use whether it be a spiritual ritual or just grabbing attention we did not know.

Fire cracker kiln

Plykaew, one of the Temple Elephant Couple

Moving onto the next building found us in the mondop which displayed antique Thai cabinets with glassware inside. Overseeing the cabinets were life size statues of Luang Pho Cham, Luang Pho Chuang plus others. There were also images of the Queen paying tribute to the shrines.

One of the monks in the mondop

Competition from the neighbours

The next building was the Phra Mahathat Chedi but in getting there we happened across Reverend Father Abbot temple. A small but interesting temple containing a Buddha flanked by a couple of characters who seemed to like a durry. Strange but people were praying before them.

Old smoky

The sixty-metre-high Phra Mahathat Chedi (short for Phramahathatchedi-Jomthaibarameepragat) was the Grand Pagoda that contained a bone fragment from Lord Buddha encased in a glass cabinet, just a few steps up from the top viewing deck.  

Grand Pagoda (Phramahathatchedi-Jomthaibarameepragat)

Upon entering the temple (after shoes were removed) we were confronted with the life story of Buddha around the walls and a multitude of golden statues, both kneeling and on their side, placed around a central shrine. Further up via a magnificent marble staircase with a balustrade topped by a Nāga handrail, we were again amongst resplendent golden statues where people took time to pray. One more effort and we were on the terrace overlooking the entire complex and surrounding area. A couple of steps further and we were in a small, busy room atop the Chedi where the bone fragment was within a glass globe, surrounded by white flowers and held within the larger glass cabinet. The crematorium, and other closed off buildings, plus where we had already covered, were flanked to the north and south by a couple of small lakes or dams of which one looked a lot more natural than the other. In the distance was our next stop, the Big Buddha.

First floor shrine room

Stairway to Heaven (and the fragment)

Big Buddha from Phra Mahathat Chedi

A short distance from Wat Chalong and a few turns through small villages saw us heading up steep, damaged and winding roads that led to the car park at the Big Buddha only a few kilometres away. Again, the driver gave us an hour to look around and said would meet us where we had separated. It was pretty hot and the forecourt below the Buddha was lined to the side with traders selling refreshments and souvenirs. The other side displayed relics, statues and signs both explaining the culture, some quotations from the famous as well as warning against offensive behaviour, including appropriate dress for women, which many managed to ignore.

Welcoming sign at the Big Buddha

The most noticeable thing of all was the amount of unfinished building work. It was everywhere and reminded one of the massive and expensive task at hand.

One of the most revered landmarks in Phuket, the statue sits on top of Mount Nagakerd and overlooks the entire south of the island. The white jade marble, sourced from Myanmar, clad the concrete icon which was started some fifteen years ago and although there still seemed plenty to do, it is nearing completion.

Once at the bottom of the grand staircase, we stopped to take in the views over Chalong and a distant Phuket Town to the north and Rawai, the Anderman Sea and Straits of Malacca to the south, before climbing the bare concrete steps to the top.

Big Buddha

The area surrounding the base of the Buddha displayed shrines and statues as well as donation stands. Once under and inside of the Buddha, its concrete skeleton was all too apparent, covering the entire space overhead. The area at ground level seemed to be a storage area for the yet to be re-exhibited religious statues (or they were in the too hard basket). Either way it felt like walking through a construction zone.

Another stairway to heaven

To the rear of Buddha was no different except the view was over the island and sea to the west. Bricks on pallets, bare reinforcement and construction machinery reminded us that this was a work in progress.

Unfinished construction at the rear

As we exited and turned left we were impressed by another large but much smaller Buddha made of brass.  Apparently, this Buddha, perched upon two Nāgas was representative of the Queen, the larger Big Buddha perched upon Lotus panels of the King.

Brass Buddha at the rear

It was time to return via a path to the side that not only allowed us to walk through the gift shop but also to get close (but not too close) to some locals. Before we hit the path we walked past quite a number of Buddhas with their hands out, surrounded by crude brass nameplates with donors names in ink, jingling in the breeze.

A couple of locals

At the bottom of the path and into the exit area were some interesting relics and shrines amongst the souvenirs. To the left was the major donation centre where we could by a metre of concrete for ฿2000 while to the right was a monk, sitting and sweating while blessing those who patiently queued.

Rubbing his belly for good luck

Walking past the donation centre

Not long after we were back with the driver and heading to our next destination.

First elephant sighted so far

Our driver heaed along Rawai Beach which looked ok but he noted that it was nothing when compared to before the 2004 tsunami. Not long after we at the Promthep Cape shopping area car park. From here we walked up the hill to a paved viewpoint. There were several impressive tributes to the King showing his family and a history in pictures. Just above the tribute was a park with an elephant shrine and hundreds of elephants of all sizes.

Local memorial for King Bhumibol Adulyadej

To the southern end of the park was a monument to Prince of JuBorn, son of King Rama V (28th child of) who ran the Thai Navy for a while.

Promthep Cape elephant shrine

Hundreds and hundreds of elephants

We next ventured on to Windmill Viewpoint where we could look back at Yanui Beach, across to Ko Man and on to get a glimpse of Nai Harn Beach. Before long we were at Karon Viewpoint overlooking Kata Noi Beach and playing with a couple of rather large birds.

Overlooking Phuket’s ocean beaches

Sea Eagles?

Lucky its claws were covered

That was it. We headed back to the Casa Blanca and further on down Ratsada Road to collect Jo’s dress that should have been finished. As we rounded the corner where the Indians and their “Creative” designs were located, we could see it hanging up and the couple keeping their eyes out for us. Jo was stoked, it looked good, made well and fit nicely. So much so that we handed over the money and ordered a couple more with slight differences. A blue and a green one for ฿2100 and again ready in a couple of days. This time we left ฿1000 and wandered off to the Novatel where our host, Gorgei at the Casa Blanca recommended we visit.

Jo and her seamstress

With the dress in a carry bag we headed back along Ratsada Road and on, eventually due to some wrong turns, to the Novatel. After enquiring at reception, we caught the lift to the top floor and the rooftop bar. Here we were fortunate enough to have a couple of beers on the shady side overlooking the harbour and city to the east and watch the afternoon’s fishing fleet head to sea to catch tomorrow’s seafood. Very relaxing and we were all alone as the bar had just opened.

After a short rest period of recuperation we were back down at street level and heading back to our room to prepare for the evenings activities, namely food and a few drinks.

The harbour from the Novatel bar

Gone fishing

First stop, Club No.43 again to sample a couple more of Alexey’s concoctions, drinks created after discussing flavours that we liked. Tailor made, beautiful and delicious. From there it was dinner at a restaurant next door to Memory at On On, another hotel not dissimilar to Casa Blanca with much history and the Sino-Portuguese architecture.

Downing another one

Fish salad for dinner

The Osha restaurant was pretty full when we turned up. There were tourists and plenty of locals tucking in and keeping the staff busy. The menu was good and varied but looking at the people beside us the choice was clear, whole fish with an excellent salad. The service was prompt with our meals coming out sooner rather than later so we tucked in with a bottle of wine for support. Following an excellent dinner, it was back down the road, past the post office and off to bed. After a short detour via the Rasta Café.

The grand Phuket Post Office

Tomorrow, it’s off to the Phi Phi Islands and looking forward to it.

 21/04/2017: Phi Phi Islands

We were up at ten to six for a twenty to seven pick up for the Phi Phi Island Tour. We tried to book a Phang Na Bay Tour to see the James Bond Island and the Muslim floating village but the Newcastle Perm wouldn’t release our money and asked us to phone them. No phone and no time meant that we missed out at this stage.

The minibus picked us up at a quarter to seven and dropped us off at Phuket Royal Marina about half hour later. Here we entered a mustering type room where we paid the balance and waited with many others, all heading off into different directions for their tours. We thought we were running late as we were supposed to be at Phi Phi Islands by eight thirty to beat the crowds. The islands are about forty kilometres to the south east so there was still a bit of work to do. Twenty minutes after arriving, everybody with orange wrist bands were shepherded out of the side door and led to our boat, a reasonably large vessel with twin 250hp Hondas. There were twelve passengers and four crew. The boat probably could have carried a half dozen more.

Preparing for the worst, hoping for the best

The confines of the harbour in our wake found us heading into the Andaman Sea at about thirty-three miles per hour. Once we were outside of the island's protection, the sea produced a bit of swell, bouncing the boat about. It hardly mattered to the captain as he pressed ahead at effectively full speed, only slowing to manoeuvre the tricky troughs.

Khai Nok  (Egg Island) to the left and its smaller neighbour Khai Nui. They're not surrounded by clear, turquoise water today.

It wasn't long before the overcast skies of Phuket turned to darkened and low hanging, full of precipitation and ready drench us. Although initially only slight, as the serious showers approached, and as a precaution, the crew gave us raincoats to wear under our vests. On we pressed. Twenty minutes of downpour brought us to within sight of the islands and miraculously, as the crew predicted, the rain cleared. Still overcast but improving. More showers in the afternoon they said.

Welcoming party

We would start the day with the northern most and largest island, Phi Phi Don. A bit of everything here, swimming, snorkelling hiking and eating. First stop, Monkey Beach where once on the beach, monkeys apparently come out of the vegetation to try and scab food. There were plenty of signs advising against feeding them as when the food runs out they get the shits and attack. We did not have any food and did not have to worry, there were no monkeys to be seen. It was the first dip of the day though, however short. Twenty minutes and we were gone.

Monkeyless Beach

Not today

Once we headed off shore we were only a stone's throw from our next stop, Loh Dalum, a bay where we again stopped off at the beach. Our guide offered to escort us up to the view point, overlooking the beaches of both Loh Dalum Bay, and Ton Sai Bay, the main bay only a hundred odd metres behind. Most went up to the view point but we walked the beach until we found an interesting bar and restaurant, the PP Beach Bar another with a Rasta feel, but nowhere near the Rasta Café. We must have been a bit early as while looking around we were asked what we were doing. When we said we were looking for a beer, the manager unlocked the fridge, got a couple of beers out, and locked it again. There was an hour to kill here and as the beer went down, the sun started to show itself. A little at first but by the time we were finished, we could feel ourselves burning. Time for sun screen. We found a bit of shade under a palm tree a short stroll away and took the opportunity to lube up, along with the opportunity to play with a few very young kittens using the kayaks and rental signs to hide.

Although we didn't make it to the top, we walked the beach, had a beer, got the warm and fuzzies from a few cats and looked at the lingering damage and recovery from the tsunami all those years ago. Time well spent.

View from the lookout

PP Beach Bar

Back to Monkey Beach, this time for snorkelling at the eastern end. There was basic coral there but nothing spectacular. The seabed was littered with the remnants of dead coral, tsunami related? There were plenty of yellow and black striped fish around, quite willing to slowly move aside to allow us to swim amongst them. Next stop, lunch on an island to the north.

Looking back at Hat Noppharat Thara National Park

We powered out of the bay and headed north to Bamboo Island where the crew set up a few tables on the beach and fed everyone a pretty reasonable lunch. Plenty of food, mostly curries and rice with fruit and soft drinks. A couple of hours for lunch and a swim was scheduled and although the swimming was awkward as the water was too shallow, it was still acceptable.

Lunch on the beach

There were a lot of people on the beach by the time we had eaten and an interesting situation developed when three of them, who obviously hadn't turned up at the longtail boat on time to return to their boat (a fairly large and old cruiser) were subsequently left behind. They seemed to be just ignored. The longtail dropped off everyone else on the cruiser which in turn weighed anchor, put about and sped off. All the time while the three still on shore were jumping up and down, waving their orange life vests madly, but to no avail. Who knows how they got back to where ever they came from.

Tardiness means you miss the boat

The next island was Mosquito Island but that wasn't on today's programme, thank god. Although we went to Monkey Beach and there were no monkeys so mozzies might not have been an issue.

Lunch and swimming behind us, we boarded our speed boat and left Bamboo Beach (and the three stragglers) behind us. It was about one thirty and this time we headed down the eastern side of Phi Phi Don to the southernmost and smaller, Phi Phi Leh. The first stop was to be our next snorkelling site, Viking Cave. Who knows why it was named so but the caves were formed in the limestone cliffs a few metres above ground level so they were only to view. The caves at sea level seemed to be more of a recess formed by the constant battering of the sea over time. The coral here was much better than Monkey Beach. More variety of coral and fish as well as clams. They were trying to repair damaged coral with seeding the barer areas around this spot.

Viking Cave snorkelling area void of tourists

A half an hour snorkelling and we were moving on to Phi Leh Lagoon.

Phi Leh Lagoon

Entering the lagoon was quite impressive although it must be said that to access the lagoon itself involved a long procession of boats slowly cruising Indian file, looking for a mooring. The lagoon was quite large when inside so we pulled up alongside a couple of other boats and dropped the anchor. We jumped off of the boat here as little shore line was available. Jo didn't go in here but Shane dived off the bow and tread water for twenty minutes.

The Lonergans are out here somewhere

The deep aqua blue water, coloured by the limestone canyon was a departure from the other sites and welcomed. Twenty minutes wasn't long enough but we had to keep going, To our final destination and pinnacle of our day, Maya Bay and its famous beach.

This place was horrendous. For no other reason than the amount of people and boats that were swarming along the sands (not including us). As we approached it was not apparent where we were going to go ashore. The beach was wall to wall speed boats with silhouettes of tourists everywhere like ants atop their nest. How dare they choose the same day as we arrived.

Reverse parking

Just another day in paradise

The beach itself is a pristine piece of paradise. So much so that the movie "The Beach", starring Leonardo de Caprio was filmed there some years earlier. It looked less than pristine and a little less for ware today.

Anyway, we, contributing to the mayhem, walked off of the back of the boat and started to explore. The last thing that we wanted here was to swim. Walking to the southern end of the beach and heading along the path led us to a camping type area where there were what looked like tents, a toilet and some other buildings. We were in Mo Ku Phi Phi National Park so the tents must have been for rent as a sign further on said a ฿400 fee was payable on entry. The fee was already part of our costs.

Welcome to Maya Bay

The path led through the camping area and into a basin of sharp shells. The basin would have taken a few feet of water at high tide and halfway across, a jetty, which would have cleared the water led to a crevice in the rocks. This in turn allowed access to a platform where one could look upon Loh Somah Bay, and an island sitting a hundred odd metres away. There was a rope net hanging from the timber platform into the sea so that swimmers could climb up the rock face to safety if needed. It seemed pointless at low tide as there was a cave that provided access to the basin of shells but would be invaluable at high tide. We had passed the rock at distance earlier and wondered about the rope net.

Loh Somah

We had an hour at Maya Beach but were back in the boat a lot earlier than that. So were several others. We all seemed to be "beached out" and were ready for the return journey. The remainder returned soon after and we were on our way. Belting through the swells on our way back to the Royal Phuket Marina. Nowhere near as rough as this morning but care still needed to be taken. The guide summed up the day and then he hit us with the spoiler, one of the crew had been taking photos and videos all day and they were for sale for ฿1600. This would be delivered to us via an email with a 6mb attachment. We said that we would take one but it came at a cost to the crew. The ฿500 tip we were going to give them went toward the video. When the tip jar came around we didn't contribute, although the crew were excellent. By five o'clock we were back at the marina and on the minibus to Casa Blanca.

No road safety here

           A quick turnaround found us doing the usual. We were late though this time at Bar No.43 and when we walked in the immediate comment was that we were late. Anyhow, we started where we had left off last night. Not knowing what we were drinking and leaving our welfare, and our tastebud's welfare to the Kazakh. He mentioned what we had finished with the night before and told us what to expect for the next cocktail. Jo's was still fruity and Shane's following the fragrant line (whatever that means). This time we had three cocktails before dinner, a couple of thousand Baht, before looking for something simpler for dinner. We had passed numerous smaller restaurants/ cafés on our journeys and wanted to try one. Walking back toward Memory at On On we passed a small Thai restaurant where the gent that owned it served, his daughter cooked and his son ran the blended fruit juice stall on the footpath. We went in and ordered a couple of simple meals with rice and a couple of glasses of Thai red and white wine. We had a good feed for less than ฿600.

The fruit juice maker

From there we ended up over the road at the Rasta Café where the place was buzzing. A long line of tables ran through the middle of the joint to accommodate the Phuket Harley Davidson club. A few beers were enjoyed as the live duet, a Rasta guy singing classics, and a Bob Marley look alike who could belt out a good tune kept the place pumping along. They sang different styles of music and took turns in doing so. When it was one's turn the other would be accompaniment.

Good entertainment

We got home about one from the café and on top of the big day on the water were glad that we could not book in for James Bond Island. We've heard it’s a must see so we'll have to see it next time we're in Phuket.

Still busy when we left

Tomorrow will be recovery day.

22/04/2017: The Night Markets

No James Bond Island today but that’s OK as we were stuffed. Late start, late breakfast and late departure. We might have not been too mobile early but with the intermittent outage of power throughout the morning, something was amiss. Once on the street and with the footpath blocked, we found ourselves walking in the middle of the road and skirting closely to the local power authority’s workmen changing out a transformer or such straight out front.

Power issues out front

Avoiding being run over was our immediate goal but we were not on the footpath long when we had to manoeuvre around the local road authority’s tools that were lying around under foot. These guys had been chewing up the old asphalt and were about to lay new stuff. All by hand and utilising some antiquated tar seal maker which made the immediate surrounds both hot and smelly.

Roadworks ahead

Old faithful

With the workers behind us we headed down the side street just to look around and buy a few things before returning to our room. For we had one mission today, visit the night markets.

Local shops

We set out for the night ahead both wanting to buy a few things but hindered by what we could fit in our luggage heading home. There were plenty of drivers wanting to take us there but we walked to near the post office and grabbed a tuk tuk from the rank out to the side. The trip was not too long and before we knew it we were dropped off near the markets as the traffic was so heavy that walking was much faster than our stationary transport.

Post office tuk tuk rank

Family on a scooter

At first we had a look around. All the fakeness we could want. After all, if we buy the original item and its made in China, why not cut out the middle man and buy direct for a fraction of the price. It’s probably made by the same people. Or their cousins.

A half an hour of looking around only half of the stalls, due to the power being out on the other half, our appetites got the better of us. Rather than eat at the food stalls at the other side, we walked straight across the street to a large roadside restaurant for a feed.

Roadside restaurant

The food was cheap, tasty and served quickly. All that we wanted. Once the bill was paid we headed back over the road to buy a few things. Some kids stuff, Calvin Klein, Quicksilver and some Ralf Lauren all genuine-fake, and all for a few dollars. With our arms full we proceeded to the street to look for transport back to the old town.

Shrine at the markets

One of the market aisles

Not remembering exactly where we wanted to go, fumbling our directions led to a couple of tuk tuk drivers ignoring us and moving on. We wanted to go back to Bar No.43 but didn’t know the street name. Finally, we jumped in a taxi and asked for Memory On On Hotel which was just around the corner.

The smell of barbeque greeted us this time and as tempting as it was we turned another meal down as we were expanding quickly enough on this holiday.

No.43 staff ordering dinner

We planned for this to be the last night that we visited Club No.43 as we had the Siam Niramit show the following night and Alexey had the night off as well. The other cocktail waiters were nowhere near as good. Two or three more cocktails and we were finished for the holiday. We thanked him, gave him a decent tip, (which his Chinese boss was all over us like a rash as I slid it into his palm. She might of wanted a  cut) and headed back to Casa Blanca.

Last cocktail with Alexey

But not before dropping our goodies back to our room and heading across the road for a couple.

A familiar ending

Tomorrow, the elephants.

23/04/2017: Phang Nga Elephant Park & Siam Niramit

The morning started off badly. We were at the hotel lobby at ten to seven, ten minutes early, waiting to be picked up for the Phang Nga Elephant Park as an email had come through last night from the park advising us of the pickup time. By twenty past seven we were getting worried so we had the night manager phone the contact number to see what was going on. When no one pick up on the other end we became more concerned. A couple of more calls were made but to no avail and we were a half an hour behind. About seven thirty the phone rang and the manager of the park told us that the pickup vehicle was broken down or pranged or something and a replacement vehicle was on its way. At least we had certainty and by a quarter to eight we were in transit.

A nervous wait ensued

The driver was in a bit of a panic and mumbled something incoherent. He drove us through back streets to the outskirts of town, pulled up and said he had other things to attend to. At this point he handed over to a guy standing on the side of the road and gave instructions. He had one more pickup somewhere near Patong Beach and then to the park. The new driver must have also been told not to spare the horses as he weaved in and out of traffic, scooters and taxis alike, until he had picked up the next lot, three American lads, and was heading north to the mainland.

Roadside broom seller

It was a trip of two halves and interesting to say the least. The first half was as earlier described, weaving in and out of traffic, tooting at anyone who deserved it and travelling at time at twice the speed limit and constantly at forty kilometres over. By the time he had reached the top of Phuket and crossed Prak Pah Strait into Phang Nga, fatigue must have set in as he slowed right down and was constantly nodding off. Shane was sitting behind and when he nodded off would talk to him or just watch him. Jo was blissfully unaware of our sleepy driver and just as well as she would have been in a panic. Anyway, we made it three quarters of an hour late and all was fine.

Strangely, we were not greeted when we removed ourselves from the vehicle and were a little lost. We wandered up a path that may have led somewhere but didn't know where. It ended up being the right way and we soon joined the other people who had been waiting for us so that the day could start. A welcoming drink that tasted ordinary but with a dash of lime squeezed in vastly improved (it was still ordinary though), preceded a twenty minute talk on elephants and the park's objectives.

The park was founded several years ago and takes in elephants in need, whether they be from logging camps or tourist ventures etc. This park considers itself a sanctuary but still allows the bare back riding of its nine elephants. It considers that riding the elephants is essential for the people to get to know them and for the park to justify the charging of five thousand Baht each to do so. When comparing their park to elephant trekking, Phang Nga elephants are ridden for one hour twice a day. The rest of the day is spent resting and being cared for by their mahouts. Elephant trekking costs about eight hundred Baht and the elephants are worked all day. They eat ten percent of their body weight daily so it costs a fortune to feed them. The investment must be recouped.

Welcoming drink at the info session

After the pleasantries, we moved to a covered elevated platform where we were introduced to our mahout, Po. The group consisted of nine people, a German couple, a British woman and boy, the three Americans and us. We all climbed the steps waiting in anticipation for our turn to get on board. Luckily, we ended up last and after Jo watched the others mount the elephants and was wary of their size, she chickened out and told Shane to go alone. We were lucky here in two ways, firstly we got the biggest elephant in the group. A beautiful big female in her thirties, named Duongjai. Four and a half tonne and half a tonne over weight. Secondly, when Jo pulled the pin we thought it was over but to their credit Po and the supervisor escorted her so she could walk alongside Duongjai for the entire length of the track.

Po and Duongjai waiting patiently

Sitting on her shoulders was hairy to say the least. Get your legs behind her ears and both hands flat on top of her head was the instructions motioned by Po. And keep forward. This was done but it was still awkward. Especially since Duongjai kept deviating to forage for food as we went. The trip was slow and leisurely and although the first leg was only a couple of hundred metres up the hill, the casual approach meant that it still took twenty minutes. Once at the top we dismounted and fed the elephants bucket loads of bananas. They all loved them and we had to stop feeding as they wouldn't have, especially ours.

Couldn’t keep the bananas up to her

After the bananas were gone they were given a break. We then remounted for the trip back down. On the way up we were last but on the return journey we were leading. Po and the supervisor done a great job helping Jo, helping her over the uneven path and telling her where to and where not to stand as Duongjai moved from side to side. An hour and a quarter after it started it was all over.

A few bananas left for the trip down

Once dismounted, the elephants were taken away, rested and while everyone was changing, moved up to the elephant pond. This is what they loved. Getting wet and scrubbed. Again, we were first. Duongjai walked into the water and sat down near the side of the pond. At this point Jo joined in and we both climbed into the pool and started to wash and scrub her. She loved the attention but on a couple of occasions stood up. This got a bit scary as the side of the pond was angled so it was a challenge not to slide under her. It was alright when she was sitting as we could just lean against her. Another anxious moment came when she almost stood on Shane's foot when getting up. Po yelled a few instructions and she sat down again giving us the opportunity to keep washing her.

Scrubbing in the elephant pool

When it was all over we grabbed our gear, and headed over to wash the "organic" material from the pond off and get some clean clothes on. The supervisor then escorted us up the hill for a good lunch of several curries with rice, a soft drink and fruit. A storm was brewing and as the thunder became closer and louder he recommended that we head down to see their baby elephant (15 months old) still under the protection of its mother. We just got it in when the heavens opened. With rain absolutely pouring down we sheltered under a nearby hut and tried to work our way back to the minibus. By the time we had made it we had no driver. One of the ladies ended up finding him asleep somewhere so he was fresh for the trip back.

A good spread for lunch

Mother and child

The trip back was not as eventful as getting there and we were lucky to be dropped off before the Americans on return. We were booked in for a night of entertainment at Siam Niramit, a local theatrical production outlining the history and culture of Thailand. We were getting picked up at a quarter to six so had time for a shower before fronting back up at the lobby. Being ready a half hour early allowed us to have a quick look at the local markets down the street but when we arrived at reception the driver was already waiting for us. It must even out, late in the morning and early at night.

It wasn't too far to the Siam Niramit complex. Just out of town. We were met with entertainers in fantastic looking period and ceremonial dress with a photographer to boot. Strange thing was that she was taking photos to try and flog to us later and also taking the same photo with our cameras. We don't think she'd sell too many of hers. The programme consisted of a show in the theatre preceded by an hour of displays in the courtyard consisting of kick boxing, traditional dancing and war elephant parade.

Welcoming committee

As soon as we were inside we looked around briefly and headed to the buffet dinner as it opened and not too many people were around. We may have been at the Silver Dolphin at Cardiff RSL as the food was the same variety and quality. All you could eat mediocrity.

It wasn't long before the pre-show activities were to commence so we left the buffet, walked through the courtyard and into a very interesting replica of a Thai village. The display represented different village styles from all parts of the land. Not long after arrival the activities started and we had to move on. Thai boxing was the starting point with a couple of boxers fighting in the ring and hamming it up for the crowds. This was followed by dancing, a light show, more dancing and finished off with an impressive Thai war parade containing many performers in battle or period costume with drums, weapons, shields and of course the elephant.

Thai boxing circus

At the conclusion of the courtyard displays, a half an hour was left to get to the theatre. Another quick look around the village and we were tailing up the crowd for the long walk to see the show. Signs were up at the entrance about no filming of the show but to make doubly sure that this didn't happen, they took everyone's cameras off them before entering. We moved in to the platinum seating which was an excellent spot, right in the middle and far enough back so we didn't kink our necks. The crowd was then asked to stand to respect the King and national anthem.

The show started off impressively with drummers on film and live but quickly evolved into telling the development of cultural diversity over the last seven hundred years. This was portrayed with scenes from the Ancient Kingdom of Lanna (the north) where the King and Queen worship Buddha and release a lantern followed by sword fighting, the South Seas (traders from abroad) where Thai Buddhist and Muslim cultures blend and Chinese merchants arrive, trade goods and intermarry, the Heritage of the Khmers (the Northeast Issan) where villagers celebrate a religious festival and a revered Khmer temple appears and the capital Ayutthaya (Central Plains) where peasants attend their rice paddies and are compared to the grandiose life in a palace. All four scenes were excellent. They told an interesting story effectively portrayed across all languages and cultures.

The second act represented the three realms of Thai beliefs and the religious principle of Karma, both good and bad deeds in the current life leading to merit or suffering in the next. The first scene shows Phrayom in his Kingdom of Hell where the flames are fuelled by people's sins and the condemned souls receive punishments reflective of their crimes. Tear out the tongues of liars, alcoholics forced to drink boiling water and adulterers being forced to climb a tree of painful thorns etc. The second represents a mystical forest located between heaven and earth populated by kinaree and nareepon, mystical creatures that are half woman half bird and beautiful girls born from trees as fruit. Demi-gods Mekhala and Ramasoon also make an appearance. The final act depicted the Journey through Joyous Festivals where Thai Buddhists, believing that to go to heaven they need to gather merit on earth partake in meritorious festivals combining religious, colourful and joyful celebration.

Scene from the internet

That was it. After the grand parade where they all walked along the aisle between the rows of seats, we gathered our cameras and headed for the exit. It was our last night in Phuket and as we had already said our goodbyes to the Russian, we headed to the Rasta Café for a couple of late drinks before bed and to again listen to the live music.

Last night

Tomorrow a late checkout before leaving for home.

24-25/04/2017: Getting Home

The time was near and we were having such a great time that we didn't want it to end. Our flight was scheduled for 10:20pm so we almost had another day before we had to leave, not that we did much. The extra six hours that we paid for for a late checkout was handy as there was a large void in our day that would have had to be otherwise filled.

We started to count our money, ensuring that we had enough cash, but not too much so that we could make the airport and use the Visa card. We had a couple of thousand Baht left and didn't want to visit the auto teller again. Jo spent some of it on a neck and shoulder massage down the road and ฿650 was needed for the taxi to the airport.

Breakfast was at nine, so due to the poor and expensive Jetstar meal choices on the way over, we planned have a decent breakfast and to eat locally about five, check out and head off. Breakfast was again good with eggs, bacon, toast tomato, sausage, fruit ….. All for ฿200.

Whilst Jo was at the masseurs, Shane started the packing, dirty in one suit case, clean and whatever was left in the other, carefully measuring to keep under the 20kg Jetstar limit. Once the limits were reached, the rest was carry on. Jo's carry on luggage consisted of anything that we needed to declare at Quarantine in Sydney, the marionette and the mahjong set. Hopefully we wouldn't have to open our larger suitcases with this approach. Shane's carry on was the electronics and any heavy stuff that overloaded the suit cases.

Facebooking & similtaneous strategic packing

With the packing and massage behind us we headed out for one last walk around the streets, but a different direction this time. One last walk along Thepkasattri Road, but keeping on straight ahead along Phuket Road, past the Surin Circle Clock Tower (in the middle of a round-a-bout) and a few hundred metres further on, all via the now accustomed four-foot-wide footpath, obstructed by motor scooters and shrouded by the usual umpteen overhead powerlines, all the while passing the usual vendors, mechanics, hardware stores, appliances and so on until we turned right into Kra Road.

Shampooed and blown. All for ฿100

Kra Road gave nothing more than we had previously experienced other than a good picture of how local businesses and residents live in the old town. Although the Sino-Portuguese shophouse design was everywhere, many were empty or turned wholly into a residence. Not unlike the empty shops back home. It was not long before we crossed the stormwater channel and again turned, but this time for the return journey which was, as with Phuket Road, more of the same. Still interesting though. One last right turn into Bangkok Road and we were surprisingly, according to Jo, back near where we started. Again a final turn right saw us walking down Phang Nga Road and to the Casa Blanca, but via a final stop at the Rasta Café. A few last beers and our last heavy downpour and it was back to pack up and check out.

Birds can get the flu in Asia

Water views in a downpour

We had plenty of time to get to the airport but after arriving back to the hotel from across the road again found that our taxi driver was waiting for us at reception, a half hour early. Not needing to be pressured, but still feeling so, we headed upstairs to pack, checkout and head to the airport a bit early. Not such a bad idea.

An uneventful trip turned out to be an eventful and forgettable experience at the airport. Firstly, we needed a feed as we didn't feel hungry earlier but knew that there would be slim pickings on the plane. Before heading upstairs to the food area, we eased our burden by checking our luggage on the ground floor. This was another interesting experience. Not unlike the slight nuances we have experienced in other countries. Thailand wouldn't allow anything with a battery on check-in luggage. It had to be in our carryon. No problems except that they checked everyone's bag which added time and to the stress levels of everyone involved. Old mate behind us had to remove his flashing rabbit ears and take them through security. This done we headed upstairs to the food area. First stop, Burger King. About ฿400 for a basic burger alone (~$15) so we gave them a miss and found the café next door. These guys sold good looking food on the menu but subsequently served rubbish. A couple of Turkish bread sangers and a juice each ended up at over fifty bucks. Typical airports.

Once through an effortless security (although they did take Jo's marionette out and have a good look), we looked for our departure gate and the nearest bar. There was bugger all around but we did find one. The only problem was that we had to spend ฿400 to use a credit card and since we didn't have enough cash we bought a couple of bottles of water for the plane. All was good. Until we started to board and the Jetstar staff wouldn't let anyone on with water. Almost everyone had to throw their water into a bin before boarding the plane. The good thing was that they sold it to us for $4.50 a bottle once we were on board (or could have waited a half an hour for the steward to bring a plastic cup full).

Apart from the water episode, after settling in to our seats and eventually taking to the skies, the stewardesses came around with food and drinks to purchase, as before. Since we had food before we boarded, we asked for the same as on the way over. A small bottle of wine, olives and four crackers and four slithers of cheese. Within a half an hour of taking off we were told that there was no food left as the people on the trip over ate it all. Shane, heatedly asked as to whether they forgot to restock or didn't pack enough. Jo told him to shut up and we suffered olive and cheese deprivation for the next eight hours. We don't know if Jetstar are the worst airline in the world as we haven’t traveled on them all. It is the worst that we have been on. It was like catching a government bus all the way.

Patiently waiting to disembark

Enough said, we landed and headed straight to the area to declare our timber products. A lovely Quarantine officer opened our packages carefully as they had been wrapped very securely in Phuket and examined them closely for borers and other bugs that we don't want out here. Following inspection, an enjoyable discussion about the lifespan of borers and a couple of her experiences, we packed back up and looked for the train. Straight past the biosecurity dog sniffing the non-declarers we found a spot on the train to Central and then to Newcastle. We had just missed a train so settled down on the next. The almost an hour wait for its departure was good as we have found that NSW trains don't have a lot of room for luggage and it can be quite awkward at times if you just make a train. As usual, people take a seat each and won't sit next to anyone. If this is the case, which it almost always is, there is no room for luggage on the trains. By mid-afternoon our trip was over and it was time to prepare for back to work the next day.

Last selfie of the trip (nice tan)

Next trip? Not with Jetstar we hope.

[joshanethailand]

Week One: Coconut Island

Phuket Bound: 9-10/04/17

We decided to head down to Sydney on Sunday arvo for an overnight stay before our Monday afternoon flight to Phuket. Shane jumped on Wotif and found a mystery 4-star hotel next to Central Station. Ideal location and it had to be Mercure. It was offering a $130 per night deal, must be about half price. We took it and the Mercure it was. Only a few hundred metres from the station.

So as to not get to Sydney too late we dropped Zac and Soph off to nannies house for their 2 weeks stay by early afternoon, but not before a quick detour to Maccas and a last minute treat for the kids. A McFlurry each. On to Nan’s and a quick goodbye. Jo got a bit emotional (Shane didn’t). It was the first time of not having our junior jet setters with us on our journeys.

Chin up guys

Once back home we loaded up the car and headed down to Hamilton station, chauffeured by Mitchell. We were 45 min early!! There was only one thing to help fill in the time, a quick stroll across the road to SJ’s hotel for a quick beer. Schooner for Jo! What was Shane thinking! Yep. Half got left. 

Filling in time

The train trip dragged on as it does to Sydney although Jo still managed her usual when traveling and fell asleep easily for part of the journey. When we arrived at Central Station we were greeted with a huge downpour. The 300 metre walk to our hotel meant we looked like drowned rats at the Mercure check-in. Jo mentioned that it was our second Honeymoon and first time away without kids in 31 years. (We often have a weekend away but this is our first proper holiday on our own). The receptionist was impressed and gave us an upgrade to a superior deluxe room with city views.

We found ourselves on the 14th (top) floor. The view was great but the room was small leaving us wondering what the standard room would have been like.

Streetscape at night

It was late so we chose to look for a feed immediately. Heading towards Chinatown found us under pressure as the rain was still substantial and there were quite a few café type restaurants that were packed shoulder to shoulder with patrons. Then, Jo noticed a Japanese restaurant on the second floor of a corner building. It could have easily been missed and as we would be in Thailand within a few days, Thai was off the menu. Plus, Jo loves Japanese food, so we headed on up to Daruma Japanese Restaurant and were greeted by a very enthusiastic hostess.

Newcastle’s Japanese restaurants are all fine dining and expensive. This place was a treat. We were welcomed so well, even more so when our hostess knew we were from out of area. The choice in food was great and our hostess was more than happy to explain the menu and help us with choices. The food was delicious. The Salmon sashimi was mouth-wateringly brilliant.

Jo loves Japanese

Following a good feed at a very reasonable price, we headed back to our room where we were interrupted by the presence of Eve’s Bar which was part of the Mercure lobby area. A couple of nightcaps each and we were off to bed.

Shane loves Expresso Martinis

We arose to an 8am alarm and opened the shades only a few inches as the morning sun that was bursting through the pane was overwhelming. We had planned the morning to coincide with a ten thirty train to the international terminal. Starting with packing the bags to almost complete before heading down for the $22 hotel breakfast, the nine thirty arrival for a decent hot feed was all to plan so checking out and heading to the station was stress free. The one hundred and five dollar checkout bill seemed reasonable considering the cocktails the previous night with Grey Goose vodka and the two bottles of wine from the minibar.

We exited the Mercure and entered the tunnel immediately out front which took us under Lee Street and to the suburban platforms at Central (we only noticed the tunnel last night and could have saved getting wet on the way over). A couple of questions to staff and a couple of flights of stairs saw us walking straight onto the train and to the airport. Perfect timing. Nice new train and pleasant ten minute ride. At almost seventeen dollars, a bit steep though considering the trip yesterday cost less than half that.

One of the Rolls of Honour decorating the walls at Central Station

Queuing is not our forte, yet it was something that is necessary so with the plebs we stood, waiting for the Jetstar check in to open so that we could get rid of our luggage and head to duty free. Not before we moved from the front of the economy queue to standing somewhere near business class, but not actually apart of the business class, and trying to upgrade. We were put onto a useless call centre where after ten minutes of computerised gibberish and finally an actual person, were told that for an extra seventeen hundred dollars we could be one of them. Nah. To the back of the economy queue we strolled, checked in and moved through customs with ease. After a small amount of expensive Estée Lauder and a large amount of inexpensive alcohol we made it to the Heineken Bar for a couple of beers and onto Gate 34 to board the 787 Dreamliner. Hopefully their self-combustion problems have been sorted.

Also with ease, we were called to the boarding gate and headed through to the rear of the aircraft. Row 50, seats G and H. The aircraft was filling and nobody claimed seat J. Excellent we thought, and as the passengers settled into their seats we thought that we had a spare next to us and could stretch out. Then from nowhere appeared this young woman to ask us to move. It was hers. Shane could smell her coming but Joanne said that she could hardly notice it, at first. After we had taken off and were on our way, the woman's husband turned up and asked her to join him in a vacant seat further back. Jo was relieved as she then commented that she was in vomit mode as the body odour became overpowering.  She was considering asking the stewardess if we could move. There is a god after all. He now just needs to keep this bird in the air.

Flying over western NSW on dusk

Snack time. Around came the drinks, water, tea, coffee, beer and wine. We chose the latter but had to part with eighteen dollars for the experience. It seemed that we had to pay for everything. Ten dollars for movies and then when we were hungry, a small satchel of olives (which we struggled to open), five pieces of cheese with five crackers and another small bottle of wine for a further fifteen dollars each. It’s a pity that Jetstar don't have competitors on this route as we could have flown to the USA for not much more than what we paid for Phuket.      

Eight hours and forty minutes after we left Sydney we landed at Phuket International Airport, disembarked the aircraft, retrieved our luggage and cleared customs.  All seamlessly.

Welcome to Phuket

Wandering through the terminal toward the entrance and taxis, we encountered  dozens of drivers waving names at us, trying to get our attention in case we were their customers. Not us though, we were winging it and was just after a cab. Jo fronted a couple of ladies in a taxi booth and was offered a lift to the Himaphan Boutique Resort for ฿400. Cheap or not (not), at nine o'clock at night it was a bargain. One of the ladies threw our bags in the car (with much more ease than Shane could) and drove us the short distance to the hotel where we were greeted by a young girl waiting for us to arrive. We paid our bill and were shown to our room, an interesting design with full glass on two sides.

Hungry after the long flight, we went immediately in search of food. Apart from the humidity making it pointless to have a shower before leaving for dinner, the stench of the drains was at times overpowering. We certainly knew when we had walked past one.

Looking down the road for a feed

Fortunately, just down the road was a small Muslim café which still had a few people eating. We were welcomed inside and took a few minutes to order as there was plenty to choose from. Jo ordered a cheese and spinach pizza (which was no longer available) and Shane the pineapple curry with NZ mussels. Jo's second choice was a burger and chips. Jo's came out rather quickly but Shane had to wait. Maybe a bit more complicated. The sign on the wall said that they served Halal meat and stated the definition. We wondered if all meat was halal or only for Muslims. What about the mussels, were they halal? A couple of lemon squashes for drinks and we were ready for bed.

Pathway back to the room

Travel to Coconut Island: 11/04/2017

An early awakening this morning in Thalang district. Shane was up with a substantial headache due to the bed being as hard as the floor, one pillow as hard as the bed and the other so soft that his head hit the bed. Fair enough, a walk it is. Heading down Soi Naiyang 16 (Soi being a side street off of the main road) toward the café that we ate at last night wasn't as easy this time as with no footpaths per se, and minibuses and taxis hugging the road's edge, walking among the cars and motor scooters was a little nerve racking. People traveling to work, mothers and fathers with a couple of kids on the back, young girls, old ladies, men and women with backyard side cars, they were scootering to and fro, going about their business in a chaotic fashion. This made for an interesting site. At the end of the street was the main drag, Nai Yang Road. From almost back at the Himaphan to the welcome sign further down Nai Yang Road, street vendors were cooking up meals on the roadside and footpaths where they existed. It seemed like the most popular offering was deep fried chicken.

Not much footpath here. Share Soi Naiyang 16 with the traffic

Arriving back at the room found Jo sitting on the front deck relaxing. First comment from her was about the terrible bed. It wasn't in Shane's imagination then. Jo was concerned that the bed for the resort may be just as hard as the rich couple on the Travel Guide show complained that their bed was hard when they were in Phuket. Time to put the sore head and bed woes aside and head for the pool, lovely temperature (if you like it warmish), large, clean and with only half of the eight rooms occupied, it was all to ourselves. A quick dip and we were off up the street again to look around and buy a few things.

Our room from the pool

First on the agenda were smaller notes as the smallest that we had was ฿500. We ended up at an auto teller with the idea that if we only withdraw a small amount we would get smaller denominations however smallest withdrawal amount ended up at ฿1000. Shane said to Jo that he knew what would be dispensed and you guessed it, a ฿1000 note accompanied by a ฿220 transaction fee. So much for that idea, on we strode.

Further on we bought some trinkets in a small shop at the end of the commercial area and crossed the road, heading back to the Himaphan. No one wore helmets here and on one occasion a father rode past with his child on his thigh. One hand on the handlebars and the other holding his baby. She would have been lucky to have been six months old and was certainly dead meat if she had come off. This seems to be the way of life around here.

Turn left to Coconut Island

It was about eleven when we arrived back at the Himaphan. Enough time for a swim and pack before our 12pm pickup heading to Coconut Island. Just to make sure that we were not going to be forgotten, Shane approached the girl at reception with the resorts phone number for her to ring and check. No need as the driver was waiting out front all along. He mustn't have had much on as he was well and truly early and was unperturbed about the wait. It was back to the room and a quick pack rather than a swim. Didn't matter though as we were on our way.

Our cab driver, Keem, was friendly and quite chatty. As we drove past points of interest he filled us in about the corn farms, best shopping places and so forth. A bit of chat about costs in Thailand, like fuel and houses when compared to wages and finally, how to say thank you in Thai. We also discussed the offer of his services. Keem dropped us off at the pier and gave us his card in case we required him.

Once we left the cab we moved around to the waterfront but there was no boat around to collect us so we took advantage of the bar services at the pier. As soon as we were two mouth's full into a beer, the boat turned up so we went from cruise mode to skull mode with a couple of minutes again. Shane had to finish Jo’s beer for her.

Just resting her eyes

We disembarked at the jetty and was greeted by a representative of the island. He escorted us up the hill to reception where we were informed of the services available and their location and asked for a signature agreeing to the terms of the all inclusive deal that we bought. All was fine but our room wouldn't be ready for another couple of hours so he suggested that we head down to the waterfront and take it easy. He would inform us when our room was ready. No hurry as we had our red ribbons on so we ordered some beers, moved onto cocktails and ordered some bar snacks (Nos. 1, 4, 8 and popcorn shrimp) while we waited.

Welcome

Probably four hours after we arrived we headed up the hill to get our room key. We were then driven to our initial villa, V73 where our gear was unloaded and we were introduced to our room. We say initially because although Shane made an immediate bee line for the pool, Jo looked up and saw nothing but workmen hanging off of scaffolding and giving a wave. They were working on the refurbishments to the Japanese restaurant. She immediately rang reception and asked to be moved.

A bit close for comfort

An hour later the staff were loading our bags again and off we went to Villa 78. Not far from where we were but far enough. Now we could settle in so after a short period unpacking our clothes it was into the pool again.

That’s better

Jo told them it was our second honeymoon so the villa was accompanied by a bottle of sparkling wine. It went into the pool with us.

The honeymooners’ bed

The honeymooners’ champagne

Another swim and back down to the bar for a couple of quick ones before dinner.

The canopy over our table

Heading down to dinner was the next chore that we had to endure and the first disappointment. The à la carte restaurant wasn't as such but half buffet, half pizza and half pasta (three halves). We ordered a pizza each and although Jo ate most of hers, the other was terrible. When quizzed by the waiter as to how the meal was, Shane’s reply was “shit”. Jo's went in a doggy bag, Shane's stayed behind.

After dinner, it was back to our pool and off to bed. Day one was over. Relaxing and unwinding is definitely the theme for this stay. It will be very easy to do.

Taking it easy: 12/04/2017

We plan to do nothing this holiday, at least for the first week and we have started off in fine fashion. The morning started with a dip in the pool before we headed for breakfast by 9.30. The disappointment of last night’s dinner was forgotten with a more than adequate breakfast. Nothing flash, a buffet with good choices and eggs cooked however we wanted while we waited. 

A good selection of fruit followed every meal

Straight after breakfast we had a quick look around the pool areas before walking along the beach.

We had chosen this destination due to a chance website called Luxury Escapes giving a good deal. We were looking for a laid back Asian holiday and this place fit the bill. The cost ended up being around $2,500 for both of us for the week in a garden villa with our own nine metre by two metre pool. It also included meals and most drinks which we thought was well worth it.

The island is actually called Koh Maphrao, one of Phuket’s minor islands, and is only around five hundred metres off of the east coast of Phuket. The island is made up of coconut plantations (hence the name maphrao, Thai for coconut) and a village whose inhabitants are fishermen and work at the resort. Apart from the Coconut Island Resort there are a couple of others on the island. Koh Rang-yai, an island just to the east is known for its white sandy beaches and pearl farms. The boat trip over was covered by our package.

The top pool from the reception area

The bottom pool from the beach

The tide was a bit too full to walk the entire length of the beach, in fact we didn’t get far at all. The walk only lasted for a short while, past the beach front villas at $9000 per week and to the start of the village where we turned around and headed back.

The beach at high tide

Cut off by the tide

The village limits

We knew that tomorrow was Songkran, a water festival celebrating the Thai new year, and one of the two major festivals of the year along with New Years so we intended to go to Phuket Town to at least observe if not join in the festivities. On our way back we stopped at reception to book a boat off of the island and found that for ฿600 each the resort were providing a boat across and then road transport to Phuket Town for that very purpose. Excellent, we signed up.

We then headed back for the pool at our villa, but before getting in, Shane bought some Smirnoff and beers from the shop and we took it easy around the pool for the afternoon.

Takeaways by the pool

A bit more swimming and a rest found us down at the bar preparing for the evening. The Japanese restaurant up the hill was closed for renovations leaving only the two buffet restaurants serving dinner. Not being keen on “all you can eat” found us studying the afternoon bar snacks menu which closed off at five. We worked out that we could get what we wanted from this menu so we ordered our evening meal near the bar by five and would snack later if we needed. This would work out well. We ordered Nos. 1, 4 & 8 with popcorn shrimp again as it was delicious yesterday.

Miang Kam, Bacon Enoki, Pla Tuna Kha On (Nos. 1, 4 & 8) & Popcorn Shrimp

One thing noticeable was the different ethnic groups around. We were prepared for the Russians as we had been reading the TripAdvisor reviews and knew it was a popular Russian destination. When we arrived, there were plenty of Aussies and just as many Russians, distinguishable by their green wrist bands as compared to our red ones and that a large proportion of the women wore scarves on their heads.

What we weren’t prepared for, but should have expected was the yellow peril, just starting to turn up, boat load by boat load. We had to prepare ourselves for their rudeness and to be pushed around at the restaurants as they turn up for their ten counties in ten days type holidays that they take.

Anyhow, the evening ended late with quite a few double Ballantines downed by Shane and a selection of cocktails for Jo before making it up the hill for another swim and bed. Tomorrow, Songkran.

Songkran Festival: 13/04/2017

We awoke to the sound of heavy rain on the roof. The first time we have experienced it during daylight hours. The rest have been light showers and weren't a bother. This didn't bother us neither so we hit the pool. We swam through the worst of the downpour (the rain was warm) and once it cleared we headed for breakfast.

Lazing before the big outing

Today is the start of the Songkran Festival, a water festival that extends over several days and celebrates the Thai new year. The occasion brings out millions, both nationals and tourists, throughout the country waging war on each other with water in a no holds barred battle using pump up water pistols, pots, buckets and hoses.

Something’s brewing. The sign of things to come

It is believed that the significance of the water drenching is to wash away the previous year’s evil spirits and sins (as if it was that easy?). One could have a fresh start to the new year.

The period is also called the “Seven Dangerous Days of Songkran” where alcohol, speed, motor scooters and no helmets combine with catastrophic results. The seven days started on April 11 and in the first three days hit 183. Last year 442 people lost their lives during the festival.          

The resort was offering transport to the mainland and a minibus to Phuket Town for ฿300 each, leaving at one fifteen and returning on the six thirty boat back. This was ideal as it saved us the planning.  

We disembarked at the Laem Hin Lagoon Pier and were herded onto a local minibus that resembled something out of the disco era. The disco bus dropped us off at Wat Mongkol Nimit on Dibuk Road, a large and impressive Buddhist temple that we couldn’t go into due to our clothing. We were instructed to meet back at the temple at six o’clock.

Ceiling of the “Disco Bus”

Walking from the temple entrance to the street saw our first encounter with the water stands, avoiding them carefully with cameras and phone safely away in sandwich bags as advised. By the time we had reached the corner we had only been squirted by a few kids but turning right into Thepkasattri Road we knew it was over. People and traffic everywhere and nowhere to hide. Motor scooters, utes and trucks bumper to bumper, all filled with people and large tubs of ice water. The people in vehicles and particularly on scooters were sitting ducks when the traffic stopped and toe to toe combat ensued. When the traffic was flowing, it was more like hit and run attacks on the footpath people. We were in the hottest period of the year so tap water was fine, the ice water was a different story.

Thepkasattri Road

A sign above the road gave directions at the next intersection and turning right found us heading down Ratsada Road towards Patong Beach, window shopping as we went. There was plenty to choose from but nothing that caught our eye.

A little further down we saw some tee shirts that looked unique and interesting. A couple caught our eye of the recently deceased king (or the new king as they look the same) standing with a child bowing at his feet and some Thai comment below. They looked interesting so we bought some. During the visit we asked the lady in shop if we were still heading toward Patong. She pointed in the way we were heading and laughed when we said we were walking. Two hour walk she said, so we deliberated as to whether we should go there at all and ended up catching a small red tuk tuk or as the sign said on the doors, taxi.

Sitting Ducks on Ratsada Road

https://youtu.be/3Od6KtetoIw

฿600 was the fare so off we went on an interesting journey. On two occasions the driver stopped to have a chat with friends and at one point stopped to roll down plastic barriers/windows to keep the water out and the locals saturating us. This seemed to be pointless as we were already drenched and given that we were sitting ducks in an open backed cab. Or maybe he was trying to keep the back dry for more fares? Further on he stopped at a bus stop to pick up some more passengers. A young Russian couple jumped in and he was contemplating cramming another couple in but it didn't happen. Lastly he stopped at the servo to fill up his machine. The young girl sat next to Jo and the young bloke next to Shane and for the last twenty minutes we knew when buckets of water were coming in as the Russian girl started to squeal in anticipation. Due to the seating, Jo and the girl copped the brunt of the water as they were facing forward at the rear.

It only got worse when the Russians got in

Absolutely drenched, the women anyway, we finally reached Patong Beach and were dropped off at the northern dolphin roundabout where the driver could turn straight around without having to travel the length of the beach and the traffic. About an hour for looking around and then back to Phuket Town should do it.

We walked down the shaded pathway hemmed between the commercialised beach and Thawewong Road, through food stalls and drink stalls to the left and sand, stalls and surf to the right. At one point we passed these ludicrous utes that were purpose built with huge speakers in the back playing incredibly loud music. All along while being sprayed with water pistols. Further down the path was blocked with scaffold and tents preparing for the evening ahead. From there we took a left-hand detour, around the block and back to where we started. The footpaths were narrow and with the volume of traffic, backed up from corner to corner, getting saturated was unavoidable. Although to be saturated meaning that you cannot take on any more water, this was obviously not the case during Songkran.

Jo on Patong Beach

Looking for a taxi back found us retracing our steps to where we had earlier started. There was a taxi driver looking for a fare earlier near the dolphin roundabout so back past the stalls, water pistols and doof-doof cars we walked. At first, he wasn’t there but we ended up finding him for the trip back, but at a premium.

We knew we had to go back to Phuket Town but didn’t know where the temple was. Luckily Jo had a photo of the gate on her phone good enough that the driver could expand the image to read the name on the front. After some discussion with a colleague he said he knew where it was and asked for a ฿1000 fare. When questioned about the cost, the driver told us that he will be extremely busy soon and that being a long way from Phuket Town, the journey would be slow. Fair enough, it took him thirty minutes to get us back to the temple and probably another thirty to get back to Patong. A bonus was that we could wind up the windows of the Camry which gave locals no incentive to throw water. Arriving back half hour early gave us time to look around a bit more before leaving.

The pic that saved us. The monastery name on the gate

Leaving the temple, a quarter hour early found us back well before time, but something interesting happened when we arrived back at the jetty. The tide was out and we were dropped off at Laem Hin Lagoon Pier, the wrong pier. This happened to everyone, three buses full. We had to leave from Laem Hin Local Pier and get off at Coconut Island Local Pier, a few hundred metres away.

No boats here

With us already behind schedule for the boat across, the staff started shepherding us into their minivans and dropping us off at the old concrete pier where a long boat was waiting to ferry us over to the island. Fairly inefficient as there were at least three boat trips when compared to one and tuk tuks to take us to the resort. As luck would have it, locals offered us a ride in the side car of their scooter so where everyone was queuing, we were "scooting" through them and well on our way back.

A quick trip back to the resort

The villagers dropped us off at the resort limits, and we returned to our room to change and headed straight to the beach party that had been arranged to celebrate Songkran.

The party area had been set up between the resort pool and the beach with the bar area and live band on the fence line surrounded by street type food stalls on both sides. An excellent layout with individual stalls offering raw cold seafoods different types of satay sticks and sauces, sushi, tempura prawns, chicken and beef shish kebabs and more. Fresh fruit and Thai sweets were located up on the deck and the dance floor in the middle.

First impressions? We’re impressed!

The Ruski dance floor

The tables

During the party, stalls and the bar ceased trading briefly to allow a Thai fire display to go ahead on the sand. Three entertainers stood by the water’s edge and spun and manipulated fire sticks to the crowds’ enjoyment. After it was over it was back into the food with particularly tasty Thai sweets to round the meal off.

Fire dancers

https://youtu.be/eXZku2e3h6c

Lighting the whole place up

Off to the bar to down a few drinks. The water had been getting thrown around tentatively for quite a period before we arrived with staff, kids and their parents joining in the saturation. Walter, the food and drinks manager, warned us as we downed a couple of cocktails to prepare for escalation soon. Twenty minutes later he was all around the bar with a hose giving it to everyone he could. He also copped as much as he dished out. As during the day, the hose was fine but buckets of ice water made things a little more uncomfortable, but only briefly.

Mayhem at the bar

https://youtu.be/YNW8JdSDmSI

By the time we were heading to bed the staff were throwing each other into the pool.

A great experience. Tomorrow we’ll take it easy.

Hot to trot: 14/04/2017

Day 4 of Songkran with another 64 people killed today totaling 247 deaths so far.

After a more than big night at the bar last night Shane woke up feeling a little worse for wear. Jo said he deserved it due to the few beers and seven double scotch chasers that he had consumed. A quick swim and the urge hit. It was off to the toilet he trotted, only to find that for the rest of the day he laid on the couch, not game to venture more than a few metres from the loo. It wasn't the scotch though, something more sinister was at hand. Delhi belly, Thai tummy, Bali belly, it had arrived and with a vengeance.

Jo on the other hand had a big day. Breakfast on her own and swimming by herself in the villa pool, and sunning herself. She also wants to add that an open designed bathroom with no separation from the bedroom is not always such a good idea. At one point, she had to open the door to the pool and leave the bedroom to avoid vomiting.

Not much else to report. Tomorrow, who knows?

A walk through the village: 15/04/2017

Day 5 of Songkran. There was another 58 people killed today. This takes the number to 305.

Another slow start today, better than yesterday, but still slow. Jo attended breakfast alone leaving Shane behind feeling sorry for himself.

By mid afternoon things were looking brighter so it seemed a good thing to hit the beach and then the bar. After all we had paid for food and alcohol deal and we weren’t utilising it.

Hitting the beach

After the swim we grabbed a table on the deck and watched the boat loads of rudeness arriving. The Chinese were coming to take over, so we ordered some cocktails. We also ordered something different from the bar menu this time. An antipasto plate, mushroom spring rolls and some sort of deep fried cheese balls. As good as what they were they were not as good as Nos. 1, 4 & 8.

Another afternoon bar snack

Talking to an American couple the previous day alerted us to a path that runs through the village. They had walked along the beach to the point and were cut off by the rising tide for their return. A local told them where the path was and they could walk back staying dry. The tide was out so we decided to walk to the point and return through the village.

The first noticeable bit of action was the wedding being prepared in front of two beachfront villas nearby. One villa had the service set up out front and the villa next door, the reception. It all looked very good and the weather was with them. We wondered whether the food was a buffet?

Beach front wedding

Unlike our previous attempt, this time we set off with plenty of sand before us. The tide was out a fair way allowing us plenty of beach to walk the kilometre to the point. It was not all plain sailing though as by the time we reached the fishing sheds, the trees grew out onto the sand too far, blocking our way, so we headed inland a few metres and found a concrete path that led through the part of the village where the fishermen lived.

Beach fishing sheds

Once on this path we could keep walking toward the point, acknowledging the locals with a wave or smile which was warmly returned. Something noticeable along our journey was that the fishermens’ houses (or shacks) were very rudimentary and housed their wives and kids as well. Not far down the track were more elaborate dwellings that were deserted. Quite strange.

Neat but empty

We also came across a very lavish villa with a shoreline pool. It was on the pathway and near the local huts. We later found out that it was the holiday house of a Scandinavian.

Scandinavian weekender

Once we got to the point we realised that it wasn’t. It jutted out far enough to obscure the next stretch of beach before the actual point. We stopped there anyway, turned around and headed back until a clearing in the scrub allowed us to walk through a property and find a dirt path that at least headed in the right direction.

This is as far as we got

Community construction. All concrete mixed by hand

The path followed the shoreline inland for a few hundred metres and took us through some more village shacks until we reached the concrete path from earlier on. This time however, when we reached the fishing sheds we stuck to the concrete and were led through the village itself. It was here that the dwellings became more substantial and seemed to be where the bulk of the families lived. Some young locals dressed in the resort uniform were either coming from or going to work.

Local villagers

After a brief look around, and an ice cream from the local shop, we headed back along the main road where we took a right hand turn, passed the mosque and ended up back on the beach where the wedding was under way. Not many people there at all. Three times as many chairs as people. Might be what you get when you get married in paradise. Only those who can afford it attend your wedding.

We ended up heading back to the villa due to sickness. Shane escorted Jo to dinner but could not eat.

Tomorrow? Not much.

Not much today: 16/04/2017

Another 45 deaths on Thai roads today. With one day remaining the road toll has accumulated to 350.

There was not much food consumed today, as Jo is starting to feel ill as well, and as such the toilet was getting one hell of a workout.

We did however, manage some cocktails late afternoon before ending up back at the villa for a quiet one.

Cocktail of the day

The bar getting ready for the evening

Good spot

The last day: 17/04/2017

Songkran is over. 40 people were victims of motor accidents on the last day taking the final number of deaths over the seven days to 390. The good news is that it is 12% less than last year and less than the daily average of 66. The other seven day festive period, New Year, 478 people died on the roads.

According to a BBC report, Thailand has the second most lethal road safety record in the world, only surpassed by Libya. For a Thai population of sixty eight million people, twenty four thousand of them die annually, or 36 deaths per one hundred thousand of population. This is almost seven times Australia’s tally which we find unacceptable.

Still, both under the weather, we again started late and went without breakfast. Most of the day was spent again, as has been common recently, around the pool in an attempt to “come good” for an evening session at the bar and hopefully some food.

Ice cream and a puzzle by the pool

We hit the beach late afternoon followed by the bar as it was our last day. The tide was out when we arrived making the sandy bottom that we had been experiencing non-existent. To swim out a hundred metres made no difference as the water was still only three feet deep and we sank up to six inches into oozing mud as we walked. Quite unpleasant. Once out we headed for the large pool where we jumped in for the first time, sharing it with Russians, who seemed to comprehensively struggle to put a smile on their faces. This had been the case since we arrived. They only seemed to smile at each other.

A couple of drinks overlooking the beach followed by Jo having some food while Shane ended up on water and watched. This went on for a few hours before we retired back to the villa and our own pool by ten.

The last night swim

After swimming, we started some packing before bed as tomorrow we head for Phuket Town.

[joshanethailand]

Thai escape, second honeymoon

A holiday without the kids? Unthinkable? Maybe, maybe not. We were tormented by the thought, yet after considerable deliberation (about a split second) it was a no brainer.

Sitting in the south of the Andaman Sea and to the north of the Strait of Malacca, Phuket traditionally found itself an ideal refuge for regional sea traders from India, Arabia, Persia, Burma, China and Siam seeking shelter from monsoonal storms. Along with the centuries old tin trade and the immigrants who mined it, the once frontier settlement developed a rich diversity of ethnic groups, their culture and more recently, a streetscape unique to Thailand through architectural influences from British colonial Penang. Today, the island earns its living from tourist flocking to its many resorts and popular west coast beaches.