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[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

Machine washed all my recent swatches. I should've taken a before photo for all of them but I forgor. Most of these have noticeable wrinkling which if I were more patient I would've controlled against. But at the end of the day if I'm going to make either a blanket or a sweater out of an machine dry-able yarn, I'm going to throw it in the dryer and live with whatever comes out.

Since I intend for this to be a master post for these swatches for me to refer back to, I'll update in a couple days with any that noticeably change gauge/get less wrinkled with relaxation. (Which I do expect, the "washed gauge" listed below should be taken with a grain of salt)

Willow Yarns Daily DK in Coffee (left), Willow Yarns Daily Worsted in Pomegranate (right)

Daily Dk swatch; 36 Stitches wide, US 6 (4.0mm) needles Unwashed Gauge; 24 stitches by 33 rows (per 4 inches) Washed Gauge; 24 stitches by 36 rows (per 4 inches)

Daily Worsted swatch; 30 Stitches wide, US 7 (4.5mm) needles Unwashed Gauge; 22 stitches by 29 rows (per 4 inches) Washed Gauge; 22 stitches by 31 rows (per 4 inches)

Notes: These two value wools held up as expected to the washer/dryer. That is, not as well as Wool of the Andes Superwash (WotAS), but not Terribly. Putting WotAS through a cleaning cycle resulted in very little change in how the final product looked, there's a little pilling but the actual stitches are very clearly defined. With the Willow line, it's like the actual yarn is superwash (I'm able to unply the tails on these swatches fairly easily) but there's a halo around the yarn that is non superwash and thus felting. It doesn't seem to effect the actual fabric much, but it does make these swatches look more "aged" in comparison to the socks I knit out of WotAS even tho these swatches have only had one washer cycle and the socks have had multiple + wear. It's very possible that with a wool cycle washer/dryer, the surface felting would be less pronounced.

Premier Basix in Mahogany, Herrschners Supreme Worsted in Carmine

Premier Basix swatch; 30 Stitches wide, US 8 (5.0mm) needles Unwashed Gauge; 18 stitches by 26 rows (per 4 inches) Washed Gauge; 18 stitches by 27 rows (per 4 inches) Notes; The name does not lie, basic as hell value acrylic. Didn't get incredibly softer in the wash and feels very "sturdy" for value acrylic. Good stitch definition tho.

Herrschners Supreme Worsted swatch; 30 Stitches wide, US 8 (5.0mm) needles Unwashed Gauge; 20 stitches by 26 rows (per 4 inches) Washed Gauge; 20 stitches by 26 rows (per 4 inches) Notes; Possibly the most accurate Caron Simply Soft dupe I've ever seen. If I didn't hate that yarn I would be more impressed. Good drape for a worsted acrylic and impressive stitch definition.

Herrschners 2-ply Classic Afghan in Almond, Herrschners Baby Wonder in Sandbox

Herrschners 2-ply Classic Afghan swatch; 40 Stitches wide, US 4 (3.5mm) needles Unwashed Gauge; 26 stitches by 33 rows (per 4 inches) Washed Gauge; 26 stitches by 36 rows (per 4 inches) Notes; This yarn is worse than the Herrschners Afghan yarn in practically every way. It was less pleasant to knit (had a plastic feel), less soft overall, and the scarring from wrinkles is far more pronounced. I would be less negative about this yarn if I didn't buy the superior version in the same lot but it is what it is.

Herrschners Baby Wonder swatch; 36 Stitches wide, US 6 (4.0mm) needles Unwashed Gauge; 23 stitches by 30 rows (per 4 inches) Washed Gauge; 23 stitches by 31 rows (per 4 inches) Notes; The tension change from stockinette to garter really fucked this swatch up, it's rolling up noticeably more than the other swatches. Other than that, this yarn is pretty uneventful? It's not particularly soft nor particularly not soft. It's not something I want to rub my face on but I could wear a garment made from it without issue. The wool blend plays well with the acrylic in this yarn and the stitch definition is nice at this gauge.

Lion Brand Pound of Love in Straw, Herrschners Worsted 8 in Espresso

Lion Brand Pound of Love swatch; 30 Stitches wide, US 8 (5.0mm) needles Unwashed Gauge; 20 stitches by 26 rows (per 4 inches) Washed Gauge; 20 stitches by 29 rows (per 4 inches) Notes; I do not like this yarn but I got it for extremely cheap so I decided to throw it into this swatch mix and it's still the same. Has a rough plasticy texture in comparison to the other value acrylics I tested here. My biggest problem with it continues to be how inconsistent the texture is within the same ball of yarn, in this single ball I've used it's gone from relatively soft to relatively rough and back.

Herrschners Worsted 8 swatch; 30 Stitches wide, US 7 (4.5mm) needles Unwashed Gauge; 20 stitches by 26 rows (per 4 inches) Washed Gauge; 20 stitches by 28 rows (per 4 inches) Notes; I expected to utterly hate this yarn but I'm pleasantly surprised by it. The texture is Odd? I've not used a yarn that felt like this one for a very long time, it feels rather unenjoyable in the ball but knits up wayyy softer. I should've bought a lighter colour for this swatch since it's hard to tell the stitches from each other. I'll definitely consider using this yarn over my beloved Big Twist Value for blankets in the future.

Herrschners Afghan in Bing Cherry, Held Single (left) and Held Double (right)

Held Single swatch; 40 Stitches wide, US 4 (3.5mm) needles Unwashed Gauge; 27 stitches by 35 rows (per 4 inches) Washed Gauge; 27 stitches by 36 rows (per 4 inches)

Held Double swatch; 30 Stitches wide, US 8 (5.0mm) needles Unwashed Gauge; 20 stitches by 28 rows (per 4 inches) Washed Gauge; 20 stitches by 29 rows (per 4 inches)

Notes: The real winner of this whole swatching is Herrschners Afghan held single. There's nothing wrong with it held double really (other than the terrible wrinkle but alas that's my fault) but held single, this yarn has incredible drape, softness, and stitch definition. For a really long time I've really wanted to knit a thin v neck sweater to replace one I had a good decade ago, but I've not found a yarn that would be worth the cost (both currency and labor) to justify knitting a sweater in my size at such small gauge. But This yarn absolutely hits that mark. A few negatives; Mild sheen (personal dislike, tho it's not terrible in this yarn). Had the most knots of any of the yarns I tested (I believe there was 3 total, 2 in one ball, 1 in the other). Center pulling this yarn was NOT fun, had major yarn barf that really wanted to tangle in on itself for one of the balls and the yarn is so light and airy it was hard to untangle.

Herrschners Aran in Heather, Premier Anti Pilling Everyday in Walnut

Herrschners Aran swatch; 30 Stitches wide, US 7 (4.5mm) needles Unwashed Gauge; 20 stitches by 28 rows (per 4 inches) Washed Gauge; 20 stitches by 28 rows (per 4 inches) Notes; Terrible. yarn. The nicest thing I can say about it is that I like the colour and that it holds it's shape well. It feels like the world's scratchiest wool but clearly made out of plastic and broken dreams. I've never had an acrylic yarn make my hands itch before. The only thing I could realistically see using this yarn for is something like baskets/yarn bowls.

Premier Anti Pilling Everyday swatch; 30 Stitches wide, US 8 (5.0mm) needles Unwashed Gauge; 19 stitches by 25 rows (per 4 inches) Washed Gauge; stitches by 27 rows (per 4 inches) Notes; The other yarn that reminded me of Caron Simply Soft but not nearly as impressive as the Herrschners Supreme Worsted. It does feel more sturdy than the Supreme Worsted but is maybe half as soft with a much worse drape. The only way I would buy this yarn again is if it was dirt cheap, otherwise it doesn't bring anything to the table that other yarns don't but better (other than maybe being anti pilling, tho I've never had a real issue with pilling from my value acrylics).

[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

Hrnggg squares. All the acrylic worsted weight* yarns swatched. All knit using either US 7 or 8 needles depending on the ball band recommendation**. (*The Afghan yarn is a fine #2 weight yarn but held double it's worsted) (**The Premier Basix recommended a US 9 but I didn't have it on hand so I just used an 8)

The only one of these I would honestly not recommend is the Aran yarn. Granted it's not washed and acrylics tend to get much softer after a washing cycle but it's just not nice to work with even in comparison to other value acrylics.

The rest range from surprisingly nice for the price point to 'I hold a personal grudge against this yarn but there's nothing technically wrong with it' (Both the Herrschners Supreme Worsted and the Premier Anti-pilling Every day yarns are very similar to Caron's Simply Soft line which i just. Personally despise.)

The rest of the swatches will probably take a While, anything below DK can get pretty boring to swatch, but I'm chugging along.

Is retail therapy = self care? More at ten.

Regardless I bought one of every yarn from Herrschners that I thought I would be remotely interested in using in future projects. I plan on making at least one swatch out of every single one of these yarns and just keeping them all together in a binder to compare back to in the future.

I tried to buy all warm browns/reds so I could use all the leftover yarns together if I didn't find a different use for them which. Mostly worked? I'm not good with colour matching on a good day but I'd put this at a solid "not incredibly ugly next to each other."

[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

Is retail therapy = self care? More at ten.

Regardless I bought one of every yarn from Herrschners that I thought I would be remotely interested in using in future projects. I plan on making at least one swatch out of every single one of these yarns and just keeping them all together in a binder to compare back to in the future.

I tried to buy all warm browns/reds so I could use all the leftover yarns together if I didn't find a different use for them which. Mostly worked? I'm not good with colour matching on a good day but I'd put this at a solid "not incredibly ugly next to each other."

[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

Since last Wednesday it has not stopped raining which has lead to a rather annoying flareup of my arthritis (and with it, depression). The Only thing I've worked on in this time is this cardigan front swatch simply because it's easy to pick up and put down.

I'm almost done tho, I've started the decreases for the vneck and am half way through the total length the pattern says for the arm hole (15 inches). Which seems rather deep. Most of my commercially made tops are closer to 10-12 inch deep arm openings. I'm going to have to do a deep dive to see if that's typical for this style of sleeve (modified drop shoulder) or if I'll have to make adjustments.

[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

A poll because I’m curious about something

[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

He's slowly growing. For some reason this yarn looks incredibly dramatic in this lighting but it's the lighting I have.

I'm very happy with how my cabling skills have progressed. Before this little adventure started I was pretty uncomfortable with the skill but at this point I've gotten into the rhythm to not slow down Too much from picking up and putting down the cable needle. (This yarn is Not grippy enough to do no needle cable methods)

The far right section looks a little squished but I plan on moving a couple stitches around so it'll hopefully be less of a problem. Mainly in the purl cavern separating the far left cable from the rest, it's currently 3 stitches wide and needs to only be two. The far left cable absolutely has to start at the cast on too, it looks unbalanced without it.

It's wednesday and i'm still insane. Mostly because I wanted something to knit while reading and none of my other projects fit the bill.

This is the first twelve rows of my cabled cardigan front left panel swatch and I've already learnt so much. Right now the ribbing almost perfectly half of this extremely comfy fit hoodie, which is probably slightly larger than it should be considering the button band. However, if I start the cable that runs along the button band immediately instead of waiting until after the ribbing, it looks like it'll pull in about half an inch which is plenty of room.

[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

It's wednesday and i'm still insane. Mostly because I wanted something to knit while reading and none of my other projects fit the bill.

This is the first twelve rows of my cabled cardigan front left panel swatch and I've already learnt so much. Right now the ribbing almost perfectly half of this extremely comfy fit hoodie, which is probably slightly larger than it should be considering the button band. However, if I start the cable that runs along the button band immediately instead of waiting until after the ribbing, it looks like it'll pull in about half an inch which is plenty of room.

[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

The Swatchening has begun. It's funny that you can visibly see me getting better at knitting cables from the first cable swatch I knit (top left) to the one I just finished this morning (bottom right).

This acrylic yarn isn't the best for really dramatic cables like the top left one (the Nautical Twisted-Rope Cable from "A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns" by Barbara G. Walker, pg. 181) but looks quite good in the bottom right pattern (Telescope Lattice from the same book, pg. 201).

What's really interesting is the difference in gauge of these swatches. The Nautical Twisted-Rope Cable is 49 stitches but about as wide as the stockinette swatch directly below it which is only 30 stitches wide. The actual gauge for the Nautical Twisted-Rope Cable is about 7 stitches to an inch, the stockinette and double seed stitch cables are 5 stitches to an inch, and the Telescope Lattice is closer to 6 stitches to an inch. Note that these are all unblocked gauges but I don't expect this acrylic yarn to change significantly unless I heat block it which I cannot do right now.

I think I'm going to swatch the main front cable/ribbing together and if that goes well, I'll knit a whole front panel of the cardigan using 6st/inch stitch count. I should also come up with a plan for the sleeves... That's a problem for future me.

[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

Ooooo Thank you for these recommendations! I found "Cables, Diamonds and Herringbones" on archive.org if anyone else wants a looksee (internet libraries my beloved <3). The textured patterns in that are really satisfying.

I've gone ahead and ordered a copy of "1000 Sweaters" from ebay. My book horde grows.

Recently I've been obsessed with the idea of knitting a wool cabled cardigan. Which would be over 100 USD in yarn. I cannot justify that to myself when I don't even like cabling.

So instead I decided to finally buy a knitting book I've had my eye on for a while, the Japanese Stitch Bible by Hitomi Shida (260 pattern version). And an additional five knitting books that were all super cheap. eBay my beloved <3

Hoping they are so beautiful and so inspiring I get over my dislike of cabling and how long it takes to knit sweaters in my size. Sometimes it's worth it to spend a little money just to be excited about Something.

[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

Four of my six books arrived! And I am VERY inspired.

Both the Vogue Designer Knits and the Knitting Off the Axis books are pattern collections. Since I've been so into cabled sweaters lately, I picked them both up more for inspiration than the patterns themselves (they tend to run small, most of the vogue patterns max out at 40 inch bust). They were each less than 5 dollars tho, so even if I only ever end up knitting one pattern from each that's still cheaper than buying individual patterns.

Next, the Japanese Stitch Bible. I heard a lot of hype around this book for a long time and it honestly deserves it. It's about 99% charts but that doesn't bother me. Like most stitch dictionaries, for the most part it just gives you a bunch of charts and then lets you go wild go crazy. However near the back of this book there's a section where they take a stitch pattern and then remix it in some way, splitting it in half or adding an element, or doing a half drop to make it an all over pattern. Which is REALLY nice to see. There's also some examples of how some of the designs could be used in a hat or sock and those patterns are included. Would recommend for those in the advanced side of knitting, pretty much every stitch pattern included includes either lace/openwork or cables or bobbles or all three.

Finally, the pièce de résistance and the book I'm the most happy to have. Ann Budd's Book of Sweater Patterns is just fantastic. This book takes six of the most common types of sweater construction (Drop Shoulder, Modified Drop Shoulder, Set In Sleeves, Saddle Shoulder Sleeves, Raglan, and Seamless Yoke) and does basically all the math you could need for most common yarn gauges/sweater sizes. The sizes go from a 26 inch to 54 inch bust and the yarn gauges are for heavy sock weight (7st/inch) to heavy aran (3st/inch). And every sweater construction has options for either a v neck or crew neck and a pull over or cardigan construction. It also gives a lot suggestions/tips to personalize sweaters either to make them fit better or to give the look you're wanting. 10/10 for anyone who wants to knit custom sweaters but is bad at math.

Recently I've been obsessed with the idea of knitting a wool cabled cardigan. Which would be over 100 USD in yarn. I cannot justify that to myself when I don't even like cabling.

So instead I decided to finally buy a knitting book I've had my eye on for a while, the Japanese Stitch Bible by Hitomi Shida (260 pattern version). And an additional five knitting books that were all super cheap. eBay my beloved <3

Hoping they are so beautiful and so inspiring I get over my dislike of cabling and how long it takes to knit sweaters in my size. Sometimes it's worth it to spend a little money just to be excited about Something.

[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

Recently I've been obsessed with the idea of knitting a wool cabled cardigan. Which would be over 100 USD in yarn. I cannot justify that to myself when I don't even like cabling.

So instead I decided to finally buy a knitting book I've had my eye on for a while, the Japanese Stitch Bible by Hitomi Shida (260 pattern version). And an additional five knitting books that were all super cheap. eBay my beloved <3

Hoping they are so beautiful and so inspiring I get over my dislike of cabling and how long it takes to knit sweaters in my size. Sometimes it's worth it to spend a little money just to be excited about Something.

[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

Okay, I've made enough "blease knit gauge swatches. Swatchless projects killedy family" posts. This post is an informational post a out gauge swatches. It will mainly be written in knitting terms because that is my main craft but it applies to crochet too. Even if you're an experienced crafter, you might learn something from this post. I talk about different reasons to make a swatch and some reasons a swatch might lie to you.

What is gauge?

Gauge is the size of your stitches, ie how wide and tall they are. It can be affected by the way you hold the yarn, your tension, and your needle/hook size. In knitting the style you knit can affect this, with the tendency being that English style is usually, but not always, tighter than continental. When I went from knitting English style to knitting Norwegian style, my gauge drastically changed to be much looser.

What is a gauge swatch?

A gauge swatch is a small piece of work that you use to measure your stitches per inch and rows per inch gauge. "Standard" gauge swatches are 4in/10cm squares, but often you'll see different sizes, especially for lace patterns that have you test knitting a certain chart or stitch

Why do we make gauge swatches?

We make gauge swatches to check if our gauge is the same as the pattern designer's gauge. Because you want your gauge to be the same as the pattern designer's so you know your size XL sweater will actually be size XL or your six foot in diameter shawl will actually be six feet across. Or that your airy and beautiful lace will actually be airy and beautiful and not too dense or too loose.

We also might swatch if we are substituting yarns. For example, a blocked lace swatch of wool will have different dimensions than a blocked lace swatch of pure silk because silk is less stretchy than wool. So if you are substituting fibers, you want to know that you'll like the finished item and might swatch a bit of the pattern before starting in earnest so you don't waste your time making something you'll be dissatisfied with.

There's also some differences between yarns of the same fiber and same weight. Some lace weight yarn is categorized as lace weight while being 600 yds per 100g, and some lace weight yarn is 800 yds or 1000 yds per 100g. So you should knit a swatch when substituting yarn even if they are the same fiber and weight if they are different yardage per gram ratios.

Do I always need to make a gauge swatch?

I talk a lot about the importance of gauge swatches but the honest answer is no, you do not always need to make a gauge swatch. If you are making something that doesn't require a certain size or airiness of pattern, like a bag or a simple scarf, you don't need to do a gauge swatch.

How do I make a gauge swatch?

Most patterns have a simple gauge listed, such as 22 stitches by 18 rows is 4in/10cm square in stockinette. However, some patterns have an "in pattern" gauge swatch or a separate pattern/chart for their swatch. So you cast on however many stitches (I often cast on a few more than the swatch calls for, but you don't have to), and knit that many rows in whatever pattern is specifed. If it's stockinette, knit stockinette. If it's "in pattern," locate the repeating part of the pattern and knit the designated amount of rows. If there is a separate pattern/chart for the swatch, knit as directed. Bind off. Don't measure on the needle, it will lie to you.

Then, you want to treat the swatch how you'll treat the finished object. If you're not going to block the finished object, measure it as is. But if you're going to block the finished object (and most things you should tbh blocking hides so many sins), you get the swatch wet, pin it out to shape, and then leave it to dry.

THEN! And nobody talks about this step for some reason and it's been the reason swatches lied to me in the past. Unpin it and let it rest. Different people give different time amounts for this resting. I'd let it rest at least three hours but some people recommend up to a week. The reason for this resting period is that many yarns, especially wool and other animal fibers, have elasticity to them. They'll rebound back a bit. Cotton and linen will have less rebound than things like wool. I'm not 100% sure where acrylic falls on that scale since I hate the texture of most acrylics.

OK I made and blocked the swatch and let it rest, what do I do now?

Now you measure! Does your stitches/rows ratio match up with the pattern designer's? Compare your gauge to the listed gauge. If it is different, you need to adjust needle/hook sizes. If your swatch is larger than the given measurements, your gauge is too loose and you need to go down one (or several) needle/hook sizes. If your swatch is smaller, your gauge is too tight and you need to go up one (or more) needle/hook sizes. At this point you can say "it's probably just one size up/down" and start your project, or you can repeat the entire swatch process. If unsure, repeat.

That's cool, can we see an example?

Sure! Here are two swatches I have pinned out.

I didn't follow my own advice about swatching and just started the Sapphira Lace Shawl on the recommended size 4 needles, but I got all the way through the first repeat of the body chart and then frogged the whole thing because my gauge was so loose you couldn't even see the pattern.

The Sapphira Lace Shawl has a separate pattern just for the gauge swatch and says "gauge is not important, swatch in lace pattern and use comfortable needle size to achieve airy lace that is not too holey." Too holey means that the stitches and yarn overs are so loose you cannot properly make out the pattern at all. That's what happened when I used size 4 needles.

The swatches you see here were knitted on size 2 (top) and 3 (bottom) needles. I knitted the bottom swatch first but was unsure if I liked the result so I went down another needle size and knitted a second swatch.

You'll notice the size 2 swatch is smaller and it's easier to make out the design. The stitches are smaller and denser, so the places where decreases and plain knit stitches are grouped together are easier to see. Versus the size 3 swatch where the stitches are looser and it's a bit harder to make out the design, though not impossible. On size four needled my stitches were so loose you couldn't really make out the design at all. With these swatches pinned out, I personally like the size 2 swatch better. However! That may change once I let the swatches rest for a while!

This yarn is an alpaca/silk mix. Alpaca is known for stretching out and not holding its shape. It's not ideal for lace. Silk is very good at holding its shape, but not very stretchy. I'm hoping together they make an okay yarn for lace because separately neither is my preference for lace. It was what I had on hand that was dyeable. Alpaca has some elasticity so it will spring back once I unpin it and let it rest. At that point, I may like the size 3 swatch better. I won't know until I get there.

I'll try to remember to post pictures of the rested swatches tomorrow to show if there's any difference. I might work up another swatch on size 4 needles to show what "too holey" looks like but that's more of a "how to knit lace" educational swatch than a "how to knit swatches" educational swatch so I might not bother.

That's it, that's the post. I'm sure my knitting mutuals will have comments and things to add so check the notes.

[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

Started a little doily today and got 30 rows in.

This is a test knit for a recharting of some 1940's lace patterns and this particular doily isn't even fully recharted yet, so it's probably going to be on my needles for a while. But it'll be my second time doing short rows in lace and that's a skill I really want to practice, helping out with the test knit is a nice bonus.

So far every decrease has been marked as a k2tog which may have been done by the person recharting but could've been from the original pattern. I've knit a couple vintage lace patterns that only used k2tog/k3tog decreases. Normally I would just go ahead and put in whatever decrease I wanted there but for this test knit I'm going to just knit as written (even if it hurts me).

[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

Hi :) I wrote about all the handmade clothes you can find in Twilight. Check it out. There's more than you think.

[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

It's Wednesday my dudes! I have a lot of projects floating around so I wanted to consolidate most of them in one long post. Not included is my Evenstar (because I just posted a photo yesterday), and a couple experimental unfinished pieces I don't know if I will finish.

˖⁺‧₊˚✦ Doily 14 (Yarn | Pattern)

Chugging along with this guy. I'm on row 83 out of 111 and just about to hit the second colour change. At this point it's mainly stockinette so the rows are going pretty fast for how long they are.

˖⁺‧₊˚✦ Blanket 12 (Yarn)

Slow prog on this blanket since I only work on it when I'm in bed or on the couch. But since it won't be cold enough to need this until next year I'm quite fine with that. I also think it's probably too wide but I'm not redoing it.

˖⁺‧₊˚✦ ???Mystery Top??? (Yarn)

Started this on a whim to play with sweater construction and now I do like two rows every couple days. I do want to eventually finish it but it's quite boring. Maybe I'll add some plain stockinette rows in just to make faster.

˖⁺‧₊˚✦ Shawl 15 (various colourways of Knitpicks Hawthorn)

This shawl is Haunting me. It's so pretty but extremely boring to knit and extremely slow going. Plus it's taking up two sets of needles. But it's so prettttyyyy. Eventually I'll come up with a plan to finish it but until then it lives in shame.

˖⁺‧₊˚✦ Shawl 11 (Yarn 1 | Yarn 2 | Pattern)

The first of my two "doctor's appointment" projects. I haven't really been knitting too much in the waiting room because of how bad my back is so he's barely different looking. I've been tempted recently to frog this and restart with either a different pattern or just better brioche skills but I haven't been willing to pull the trigger on it yet.

˖⁺‧₊˚✦ Socks (Knitpicks Wool of the Andes Superwash in Marina and Cobblestone Heather)

The second "doctor's appointment" project. I had enough of this yarn for three pairs of socks but haven't hard the urge to knit any until now. Nice and simple toe up vanilla socks in worsted weight is very relaxing.

˖⁺‧₊˚✦ Blanket 11 (Yarn 1 | Yarn 2 | Pattern)

Not really that much prog on this, just been super into lace knitting rn. I think this'll be fun to work on outside when the weather is nice which will be Soon.