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‘Making the Cut’ Winner Jonny Cota – WWD

Amazon “Making the Cut” winner Jonny Cota may be the luckiest fashion designer in America, if not the world, right now. Not only does he have a $1 million prize, he’s got a global platform to launch his brand with one of the few retailers that’s come out ahead during the coronavirus, and arrives with a built-in fan base — all at a time when the future of showing and shopping fashion is very much up in the air. “How weird we’re all in this global pandemic and every designer is struggling and I would be in that same situation except right now I’m having the opportunity of the lifetime?” said Cota, a 15-year veteran of the Los Angeles fashion scene whose niche Goth leather brand Skingraft has been worn by Rihanna, Justin Bieber and Beyoncé.

Cota took top honors in the streamer’s first fashion competition show, starring Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn, after a runway showdown against Berlin-based Esther Perbandt, who has a similarly dark, but more elevated and conceptual aesthetic. (For finale judges Klum, Naomi Campbell, Joseph Altuzarra, Chiara Ferragni and Nicole Richie, it came down to which designer had the versatility to become the next global brand; for the record, Klum and Campbell voted for Perbandt.) Since the show wrapped shooting in September, Cota has been mentored by Christine Beauchamp, president of Amazon Fashion, who appears in the last two episodes of the series, during which designers had to prove their commercial chops by creating their own pop-up shops and presenting her with a business plan.

With guidance from her team on creating assets for the Amazon customer, including clean photography, clear size charts and product bullet points, Cota created the 20-look Jonny Cota Studio collection now available on the U.S. site, and rolling out internationally soon, with prices from $40 to $350. (Perbandt’s brand has been picked up by Amazon’s sister site, Shopbop.com.) Cota’s clothes are certainly cooler than anything you’d expect to see while shopping for Tide pods and toilet paper. Mostly genderless and in a black-and-white palette, they include a blanket poncho reminiscent of his past work, motocross-inspired denim, and a butterfly-print caftan. Like Christian Siriano, another designer born of TV, Cota is quick with a quip and he has a story to tell, which should serve him well (as should his preshow celebrity following). But there are plenty of winners of fashion competition shows, including of “Making the Cut’s” older sibling “Project Runway,” who have not become global brands. However, they were not backed by Amazon.

Jonny Cota Studio Courtesy

The retail behemoth has been slow to the prestige fashion world, even though it sponsored the 2012 Met Gala, and Anna Wintour is friendly with Jeff Bezos, whom she cozied up to at the Tom Ford runway show in L.A. in February. In a deep dive into Amazon Fashion’s apparel offerings, a January report from Coresight and DataWeave found the bulk of what’s listed are non-branded, or “generic” products, and activewear is the top-selling category. But the online giant’s fashion currency has risen dramatically since the pandemic has left much of the rest of the retail landscape in shambles, with Sears, J.C. Penney, Neiman Marcus and other major chains struggling and some nearing bankruptcy. (By contrast, shares of Amazon are at a record high.)

“What will limit Amazon’s potential is the fact it’s becoming clear to brands that it is a predatory partner,” cautions retail futurist Doug Stephens. “The next thing you know, they are private-labeling what you just did, and using your data to do it, and selling to the customers you just acquired.” Still, sources say Amazon is preparing to expand its prestige fashion footprint further, has been working with the Council of Fashion Designers of America to help designers sell excess inventory, and could even step in with a new framework for a future New York Fashion Week. WWD broke the news in January that Amazon is readying its own digital storefront for luxury fashion, which could also open up a host of opportunities for content and commerce. Beauchamp would not comment on future initiatives.

A look from Esther Perbandt’s finale collection for “Making the Cut.” Janice Yim/Amazon Studios

What those initiatives look like could depend in part on the success of “Making the Cut” and sales of Cota’s collection (the designer won two challenges during the series, and both looks sold out, though it’s not clear how many were produced). Amazon declined to share viewership numbers, or how much it has invested in launching Cota’s brand versus what he will get to invest in himself from the $1 million pot. But the marriage of content and commerce is a step forward for the platform, which has gradually been improving on its early QVC-like shopping segments with more slickly produced fashion entertainment programming and brand-building around personalities. In July 2019, Amazon exclusively launched Lady Gaga’s Haus Laboratories beauty line with Amazon Live previews and tutorials, and in September, it produced Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty runway show, bringing her lingerie collection to Prime Video members to watch and shop. Amazon has not revealed plans for a second season of “Making the Cut,” but is still casting as if it will have one. “I dreamt about what it could look like before the pandemic and I dream about what it could look like in the pandemic and after the pandemic,” said Klum of the show’s prospects, adding that the challenges could explore remote designing, for example. “The more constraints we have, the more creative we become. There are few things less inspiring than a blank canvas,” said Gunn, along with a pitch for the resiliency of fashion: “We all need clothes.” COVID-19 has put Amazon in the spotlight more than ever before — for better and for worse, as the retail giant, like its essential retail peers, has had difficulty keeping up with consumer demand and also has faced pushback from workers who have walked out demanding better safety protections in the warehouses where they continue to ship essential and not-so-essential merchandise to the quarantined millions. “Amazon in one way or another has become a hero to a lot of people who are depending on essential goods to be delivered to them,” said Cota, who got a call from the show’s casting director the same day in March 2019 that he closed his Skingraft store in downtown L.A. after the landlord doubled the rent. “I wouldn’t have jumped at the opportunity if it had happened a year, two years, or five years before. It was this moment where I had no idea what tomorrow looked like, no idea where the brand was going. There was no better time to say ‘yes’ to this opportunity.” A California native, Cota started out making costumes for a San Francisco vaudeville circus troupe (he himself was a stilt walker) before launching his fashion business in 2005 with a collection of leather jackets made from vintage remnants (hence the name, Skingraft). Earning a following for motocross jackets, drop-crotch pants and leather holster bags, he showed his collections, which have a high-end price point from $100 to more than $1,000, at both L.A. and New York fashion weeks. A retail pioneer, in 2009, he became one of the first to sell high-end clothing in downtown L.A. at the first of two storefronts he had before moving to his current space at Row DTLA. He also had a store in New York’s NoLIta in 2013. “I had a friend who cast ‘Project Runway’ for years, and I always said, nope, not for me,” said Cota, 37. “Specifically, a lot of other shows are heavily reliant on sewing. Even though we had to sew a lot on ‘Making the Cut,’ the fact it was a show about entrepreneurship and being a creative director, that spoke to me and my skill set.” Like many fashion brands, his has gone through several lives — initially wholesaling to speciality stores such as H. Lorenzo and Opening Ceremony; then taking on investment from venture capital group Innov8 (the partnership ended in 2016); then shifting to a direct-to-consumer model with see-now-buy-now collections of more accessible items, such as hoodies and T-shirts. When he got the casting call, he was at an inflection point. “I went [on the show] to get exposure for Skingraft, I went in there to help discover the next chapter of our company,” said Cota. “We were switching to an online model as a brand and we needed to reach a global audience. So I thought, get me through three, maybe four episodes. That will be enough exposure to give us a new opportunity.”

Skingraft’s fall 2016 collection. WWD

Cota earned points on the show for his willingness to listen to judges’ critiques, to soften his aesthetic, incorporate color and print and more accessible shapes, including feminine dresses. He even agreed to change the name of his brand to Jonny Cota. To underscore his journey, he titled his final collection “Metamorphosis.” “I’m so proud of what I’ve accomplished with Skingraft, but even when I have spoken on social media, it has a tone, the tone is cool and unapproachable. That worked for what it was, but it was definitely an armor to hide behind. When first going on ‘Making the Cut,’ I started giving them Skingraft silhouette after Skingraft silhouette. And the judges could see right through it, that there was more there. Naomi Campbell dragging me through the coals after the couture challenge, and being like, this is derivative, this is boring, show me more. I thought it was the worst day and it turned out to be the best day. I had to do a lot of soul-searching, let go of a part of myself and my aesthetic.” Funnily enough, since the show started airing in March, Skingraft has seen a halo effect, to the tune of a 500 percent increase in sales from March to April: “Since the judges critiqued the name Skingraft, it’s made our fans come out in full force and it’s our best month in sales of our career.” While Cota initially planned on folding the Skingraft collection into the new Jonny Cota Studio collection, now he plans to keep them both going — and available, as soon as retail reopens, at his L.A. store. “Niche followings are so unique. Skingraft customers, they really cherish the all-black Goth-y side of Skingraft and they don’t want to let that go. At the same time, you can tell they are so proud of me and of themselves feeling like they were onto something before the rest of the world. We get a lot of messages like, ‘I’ve been going to your store for 10 years in DTLA and finally the world gets to see what I saw.’” Since the show wrapped, Cota has spent most of his time in Bali overseeing production of the collection (he’s long produced his clothing there). “Skingraft will always be the little Goth-y stepchild doing its thing, but the focus for the rest of the year will be on Jonny Cota and the Jonny Cota for Amazon collection.” (Whether his relationship with Amazon lasts beyond that is uncertain.) Even with the gloom and doom the pandemic has wrought on the fashion industry, Cota said he never really considered taking the $1 million and cashing out (and chances are, Amazon would have nixed that idea). “I know it will be a well-funded year and I’m going into this without caution and full steam ahead. I’m excited to invest the majority of the prize into the company. But also, Jonny Cota has been underpaid for the last three years. He always pays his team first. It’s time to have an adult salary for a change.” Someway, somehow, he’s feeling good about the next chapter. “The show launched from this moment of entertaining people at home while they are trying to stay safe…and we’re launching a brand that has never been more accessibly priced for me. The timing is perfect — let us entertain you, let us make you feel optimistic, offer you a piece of us at the most reasonable price we can, let’s get through this together and move forward together.”

Jonny Cota Studio Courtesy

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Strideline United We Grind Socks

Strideline United We Grind Socks | USA Baseball Shop

Strideline

$ 16.00

This sock by Strideline features sweat-wicking fibers, select terry pads, Strideline’s patented heel strap, and a unique blend of technical yarns. Made to fit men’s shoe sizes 9 to 14. Strideline Return Policy: socks must be unworn and still have the original tags attached.

Default Title – $ 16.00

LOW STOCK – ONLY 2 LEFT

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U.S. retailers offer purses, shoes ‘to go’ as restrictions ease

Several staffers at major retail chains, including J.C. Penney Co Inc and Saks Fifth Avenue, reported for duty at some Texas-based stores on Friday, selling merchandise “to-go” for orders placed online.Photo: Shutterstock Following Texas Governor Greg Abbott’s executive order, the retailers could open for curbside pick-up for anything from a Gucci handbag to a pair of Levi’s jeans.For more than a month, “non-essential” stores have been closed to the public to curb the spread of the novel coronavirus, and many were limited to shipping online orders to customers’ homes.On Friday, Texas, the second-largest U.S. retail market after California, along with South Carolina, Georgia and Tennessee, started to reopen their economies.“To be able to see that there is a light at the end of the tunnel is a huge confidence builder” both for consumers and retails, said Marshal Cohen, chief retail industry adviser at market research firm NPD Group.Even with curbside service, chains have sharply curtailed signature department store services. Makeup applications and spa services are unavailable, and personal shoppers cannot interact with clientele in person. They have been using Zoom, Instagram, text and email instead.Penney, which is exploring filing for bankruptcy protection after the coronavirus pandemic forced the retailer to temporarily shut its 850 department stores, will offer curbside pick-up starting on Friday at certain store locations in Texas, including San Antonio and Dallas.Dallas-based Neiman Marcus, which also is preparing to seek bankruptcy protection, will allow customers to collect online orders, gift cards and alterations via curbside pick-up at all Neiman and Last Call locations in Texas. Upon arrival, an associate – wearing a mask and gloves – will deliver the product to the customer without making any contact.Saks Fifth Avenue stylists and personal shoppers on Friday sent messages to Texas-based clients telling them they can schedule appointments to shop online and collect merchandise curbside, or make returns, at two Saks stores, one in San Antonio and one in Houston. The personal shoppers can also advise customers on what purchases to make, though not in person.“Wall Street is looking closely at how the ‘non-essential’ stores reopen,” said Randy Hare, portfolio manager at Huntington Private Bank. “We will be in a new environment post-quarantine and different companies have an opportunity to become leaders.”Many retailers were offering curbside pick-up before the coronavirus pandemic to drive sales, and some states have allowed non-essential businesses to operate curbside in recent days.Macy’s Inc started testing curbside services this week at three locations in California, Florida and Texas, a company spokeswoman said.As they return to doing in-store business, the retailers might take a lesson from others overseas.In Germany, where stores are gradually reopening to shoppers country-wide, Swedish furniture chain Ikea counts people as they enter and exit to make sure there are no more than 640 shoppers at one time. It has put up protection screens for staff offering assistance and closed its childcare and restaurant areas.Staff are not required to wear face masks but can if they want. Signs on the floor ask shoppers to maintain a 1.5 metre (4.9 ft) distance from each other.At H&M stores that have reopened in Germany, customers are reminded with announcements, signage and floor stickers about social distancing rules. Plexiglass shields separate cash-desk areas, and the retailer is following the ruling of several German states regarding the compulsory wearing of protective masks for all employees.

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10 Best Affordable Brands For Ethical Fashion On A Budget

Ethics | Ethical trading, fair wages, gives back, recyclable packagingProduct Range | Adult apparel, children & baby clothing, accessories Price Range | $$Boden is one of our most-loved sustainable British brands. The company, which was founded more than 25 years ago, is renowned for its clothing collection, which is equally ethical and expansive. Customers local and abroad can shop for the whole family, as the brand offers expedited worldwide shipping options for its adult, children, and baby apparel. The clothes even ship in recycled (and recyclable) packaging. For sustainable and affordable apparel that will last, say ‘hiya’ to your new favorite clothing collection.Shop Boden Source link

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Employers, workers and brands join ILO on call for action

International Labour Organization (ILO) along with employers, worker organisations, brands and retailers, is endorsing a call for action by committing to work with governments and financial institutions to mobilise sufficient funding to manufacturers to survive economic disruption caused by Covid-19 pandemic and to protect workers’ income, health & employment.The International Organisation of Employers (IOE), the International Trade Union Confederation (ITUC), IndustriALL Global Union, Bangladesh Employers’ Federation and major brands and retailers including Adidas, C&A, H&M Group, International Apparel Federation, Inditex, M&S, Primark, PVH Corporation, Ralph Lauren, Tchibo, VF Corporation, Under Armour and Zalando SE are working with ILO.“The economic impact of the Covid-19 pandemic on this critical industry requires a global response. IOE joins this call for action with the aim of supporting business continuity as well as the livelihoods of workers in the garment industry during this disruptive period. This is a voluntary initiative that focuses on mobilising collective action. It is not aiming to disregard stakeholders, companies and organisation that might not be able to join,” said IOE secretary-general Roberto Suárez Santos.ITUC general secretary Sharan Burrow is joining the call to action to ensure jobs and sustainable business in SMEs in the garment industry are maintained through this tragic period.“We cannot afford the human and economic devastation of the collapse of our global supply chains and millions more in developing economies thrown back into poverty. Jobs, incomes and social protection are the dividends of business continuity and this statement calls for emergency funds and social protection for workers to guarantee industry survival in the poorest of our countries. Leadership and cooperation from all stakeholders are vital to realise a future based on resilience and decent work,” said Burrow.“These principles are the essential first step towards mobilising the funds needed to maintain the livelihoods of garment workers through this crisis and beyond. Concrete action is now needed by the industry to protect supply chains and the workers they depend on,” said IndustriALL general secretary Valter Sanches.“The International Labour Organization is deeply concerned by the threat posed by Covid-19 to millions of jobs in the global garment industry. This is an unprecedented crisis that can only be solved through global solidarity. The priority must be to sustain businesses and protect workers. At the heart of this is effective social dialogue between governments, workers’ and employers’ organisations. We urge all actors to heed this this call and take joint action that will help us avert catastrophe for the industry,” said ILO director-general Guy Ryder.“The Covid-19 pandemic has severely affected every aspect of the apparel value chain, from the closure of retail stores globally, to the workers, families and communities throughout the supply chain. We recognise that tackling this is far bigger than just one business and requires a collaborative industry response – and PVH is committed to that. We must work together as brands, governments, and representatives for workers as well as employers to establish a more just and resilient garment industry that is better equipped to deal with both the human and business impacts of Covid-19 and any future crises,” said Emanuel Chirico, chairman & CEO, PVH Corporation.“We deeply appreciate the global initiative jointly taken by IOE, ITUC, IndustriAll and ILO inviting all the reputed brands/buyers/retailers and other stakeholders in this ‘Call to Action’ to support the workers and enterprises of the RMG sector across the world severely impacted due to Covid-19. We hope that this will be a collective and collaborative platform where business across the globe will come forward to address the immediate crisis so that the lives and livelihoods of the millions of workers can be protected thereby allowing the RMG industry to sustain the challenges and come out with renewed resilience,” said Dr. Rubana Huq, president, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association.An international working group will be established within the next two weeks convened by the ILO and coordinated by IOE and ITUC, including brands and manufacturers, workers and employer organisations and governments, to further elaborate the implementation steps necessary to deliver on these commitments. Fibre2Fashion News Desk (PC) International Labour Organization (ILO) along with employers, worker organisations, brands & retailers, is endorsing a call for action by committing to work with governments and financial institutions to mobilise sufficient funding to manufacturers to survive economic disruption caused by Covid-19 pandemic and to protect workers’ income, health & employment. Source link

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During Coronavirus, U.S. Cosmetic Seaborne Imports Drop, S&P Says

Boat-based perfume and cosmetic shipments to the U.S. declined by 14.2 percent in the first half of April, according to S&P research. Source link

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Strideline Grey Traditional Logo Socks

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Elie Saab on confinement as an opportunity to organize thought; reduce anger and tame egos

Few countries are going through as much a crisis as Lebanon right now, even if the country has been relatively unscathed by the Covid-19 in comparison to Western Europe. FashionNetwork.com caught up with the country’s most famous designer, the Phoenician couturier Elie Saab, to discuss the impact of the pandemic. And how his couture house is handling the enormous disruption caused by Covid-19. Elie Saab’s headquarters in Beirut, Lebanon – Elie Saab Though he always shows haute couture and ready-to-wear in Paris, Saab’s hometown is Beirut, which has been the center of enormous political activity this spring. This week, Lebanon’s lawmakers donned face masks to meet inside a cavernous Beirut theatre – in order to observe social distancing – the place sprayed with disinfectant as they entered. Outside, anti-government protestors paraded around in hundreds of cars – again, to maintain social distancing. Remarkably, throughout Lebanon’s long years of civil war and often chaotic conflict, Saab and his three sons have managed to build one of fashion’s most distinctive houses, develop a unique aesthetic and dress an Oscar winner. So, we caught up with Saab for his particular take on the current crisis, and what we can all potentially learn from this dark moment in world history. As well as how he sees the before and after Covid-19, both very different to him. And why, to Saab, this period can be one of personal fulfillment; and an opportunity to organize one’s thoughts; reduce anger and tame ego.A look from Elie Saab’s Fall/Winter 2020 collection – Elie Saab FashionNetwork.com: Where are you now? With your family?Elie Saab: I’m in Lebanon with my wife Claudine. We spend our time between the house in Beirut and our house in the mountains in Faqra. Elie Jr and Celio are also in Lebanon but Michel is still in Switzerland. FN: How is the situation in the Lebanon?ES: Unfortunately, the situation in Lebanon is not very favorable. For a while now, we have been living in a fairly fragile and agitated economic and social context and this virus has made the situation even worse. FN: How are all your team?ES: Everyone is fine. We had taken the necessary measures to ensure the safety of our teams.However, we are starting to set our goals by looking to the future, considering that this pandemic has become more contained and controlled.The teams are working on a suitable tactic and a more suitable strategy for the long term that will be applied immediately. FN: How has all this pandemic affected your creative ideas? ES: Honestly, I consider that this pause has generated certain positive consequences. I had never had the time or the opportune occasion to put my ideas in order, to reflect amply, to see things from another angle and in a more serene way. This confinement is an important period of reflection and contemplation. I continue to feed my creativity on a daily basis, I let myself be inspired by everything around me. FN: When was the moment when you first realized how serious this all was?ES: We were living in an express world where everyone was caught up with their agenda between incessant travel and consecutive events. Now, suddenly, the whole planet is in confinement, the world economy is affected, so we understand that the situation is out of the ordinary. Nature, whether one likes it or not, is stronger than we humans. What we have just experienced will not be able to reproduce easily. It may be tens of generations more before we face a similar test that will change our perception, be it personal or professional. I hope that everyone will take advantage of this situation to build a better, healthier, more balanced, simpler, and above all more humane future. FN: Has anyone you know personally been affected?ES: This virus has unfortunately affected a large number of people around the world. To see that there is a large number of deaths really pains me …Like everyone else, I know friends who have been mildly affected by the virus or their family members. But I believe education and awareness about the virus now will help contain the spread so that we can get by as quickly and as best as possible. FN: How will fashion change after Covid-19?ES: Fashion as well as the world will no longer be the same. We will refer to before and after Covid-19. Many things will change. I was convinced that a change would take place sooner or later because the cycle was no longer human. But I never thought that in our time, a pandemic would mobilize the planet to this point. The pace in our industry had become insane, robotic: we were working on several collections at the same time, so we lost the pleasure of savoring each one. We were under continuous pressure, we lost the joy of living and enjoying human relationships, as well as listening to others. Due to the speed and the sequence that we lived, simplicity lost its value, merits had become less and less appreciated. The calendar we were following was crazy and barely gave us time to catch our breath. Even the customers were bombarded by the novelties on the market. The consumption of the products became irrational and it was rather an endless race. We have to start again on the basis of favoring quality over quantity, creating brand-specific experiences, giving back the product’s own value so that it remains timeless. I really believe that today, we are moving to a new chapter that will give us the chance to set the record straight.A look from Elie Saab’s Fall/Winter 2020 collection – FashionNetwork.com FN: How will the world change after Covid-19?ES: Our daily life will also change. We got into the habit of connecting remotely, working remotely, finding opportunities and looking for reliable solutions. We have developed our adaptability. We have realized that we can do things without being on-site by ensuring good remote management. Everything can be done online and this gives greater importance to technology. This phase remains very exceptional, as everything will gradually resume to regain its place – as it should. Excess remains the boredom of mankind and everything must be well-balanced to give a better meaning to humanity. Earth, too, had to breathe differently, with less pollution! It was really a click that brought us back to true and simple values. I am optimistic, I welcome this situation positively as a way to redefine our aspirations, our needs, our expectations. This period gave me a certain feeling of gratitude. I consider it as an experience of personal fulfillment to assess the details that surround us. I really hope that many people have had the chance to organize their thoughts during this time to reduce their anger and tame their ego. Some had lost their bearings before, and now is the time to raise the bar and return to simplicity and authenticity. FN: As an industry of incessant travel, where the shows went on last month even as the pandemic raged in China, does fashion bear any of the blame?FN: Fashion Week may have accelerated the spread of the virus, but there were also other sporting events, conferences, etc. taking place around the world. Meetings and trips are not just for visiting fashion capitals and attending fashion shows. The spread of this virus has no borders or barriers. I especially do not want to associate this virus with the Fashion Month period because fashion represents beauty and elegance, Fashion Week evokes conviviality, and I insist that it symbolizes such, and that, forever. FN: Many people have talked about a reset button – do you think that is the case?ES: Of course, the entire planet is on hiatus and it takes a “reset button” to restart it. Yet, you must be very careful when restarting the machine. We must ensure that we will take over the reins with skill, by emphasizing quality, in all of these aspects. We cannot ignore this phase that we have lived and re-launch lightly as if nothing had happened. This initialization button should trigger a promising start. I can’t stop thinking about it, and I’m in the midst of organizing myself to pass this course at best. FN: Others have noted that influencers have gone very quiet. Do you think that their influence will wane?ES: I have a belief that you cannot cross out something that has existed for a certain period of time. Influencers marked their territory: some were influential and were able to create an identity, others lesser so, and this will also be the case in the future. These influencers are above all a source of inspiration for the millennia and I hope that they will evolve in the right direction. FN: What will we keep from this period and what will we discard?ES: Personally, I will keep my character that you know well: simple, human, courteous and insightful, so as to not complicate matters. I will get rid of everything that could harm the quality of life that I will begin again, and take more pleasure around human relationships. My initial intuition had never deceived me, and today, I am even more convinced that you have to be well-surrounded to give more to the world.I have always gone forward with hope, and learned to overcome obstacles by determining the essentials, what inspires me – and this will further strengthen my conviction. FN: Do you still expect to come to Paris and shows in September?ES: Paris is my second city, and I can’t wait to come back to start again fully. I hope that this industry will recover in the best conditions possible, and that we will all be united to create subtly.

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What Is Ethical Fashion?

How Industry Leaders Define Ethical Fashion“Ethical fashion” is a phrase only used in recent history even though some of its practices date farther back. One of the first papers debating this topic was published in 2002 and little evidence of the expression is found before the beginning of the century.In the last decade or so, fast fashion has taken over the industry and left carnage in its path. Large brands have been notorious for underpaying and overworking their employees in factory settings. This has resulted in most people’s interpretation of “ethical fashion” as one in direct response to that. Still, that runs a large gamut. Here are various definitions of the term by blogs, experts, brands, and consumers.Ethical Fashion is an umbrella term [used] to describe ethical fashion design, production, retail, and purchasing. It covers a range of issues such as working conditions, exploitation, fair trade, sustainable production, the environment, and animal welfare.- V&A MuseumWhen ethics are discussed within the context of fashion, it most often refers to the treatment of people in the stages of raw material, processing and manufacture—activities typically carried out in the developing world. – Study 34I think the term ‘ethical’ is open to interpretation, as my ethics are likely different from yours and highly personal.- Sass Brown, FashionhedgeThe only thing it really means is “not as bad as mainstream fashion.” – ForbesWhile some have made a valiant effort to clear up the confusion around the phrase “ethical fashion,” others have no desire to attempt to understand the seemingly open-ended phrase. We can all agree that ethics are meant to guide us towards being better people—but what does that mean? The Problem With Ambiguity Source link

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Tour d’horizon des derniers concepts stores ouverts lors du confinement au Japon

La boutique forte_forte La marque de vêtements italienne forte_forte a ouvert sa première boutique au Japon à Tokyo dans un centre commercial de Ginza. Dans la même lignée que ces boutiques parisienne, milanaise et espagnole, le magasin invite les clients dans un intérieur délicat, léger avec des matériaux pour le moins massifs combinant le travertin, le laiton et la feuille d’or dans sa palette.

Selected byLe travertin est associé en panneaux muraux parsemés de morceaux de laiton poli et d’éclats de mosaïques en verre coloré produit dans une ancienne fonderie vénitienne. Afin de relevé le côté calcaire de la pierre, un mur a été entièrement réalisé en feuilles d’or dissimulant les cabines et les stocks de la boutique. Dans l’esprit de la marque, l’espace reflète un caractère doux, délicat, féminin. Les portants sont aussi en laiton et permettent de dessiner des lignes dans l’espace.

Selected byLe concept-store Freitag A Kyoto cette fois-ci c’est Freitag, la marque suisse qui vient d’ouvrir les portes de son dernier concept-store. Dans ce petit espace de 80m2, Freitag partage sa passion pour l’esthétique wabi-sabi du réemploi. Ses bâches de camions sont ainsi tranformées en sacs neufs. Situé près de l’ancien marché nishiki et de la zone piétonne métropolitaine de nakagyo-ku, le magasin est entièrement inspiré des entrepôts logistiques de style industriel du siège de l’entreprise à Zurich.

Selected byConçu par les architectes Torafu, l’espace possède entre autre, son propre atelier où les clients peuvent réaliser leurs prototypes uniques à partir de chutes de bâches. Au milieu, se dresse un grand établi avec un plateau en caoutchouc et V100, le système original de la marque. Le reste du store est en béton armé avec des colonnes et des poutres brutes. Des réflecteurs servent de lumière sur l’îlot. Comme souvent au Japon, un espace de travail semi-extérieur a été installé.

Selected byLe store Acne Studios À Nagoya cette fois-ci, c’est Acne Studios qui vient d’implanter son dernier concept. Dessiné par les architectes espagnols du studio, Architectura-G, le projet couvre un espace de 275m2, autour des notions de contrastes. Ils assemblent la haute technologie et les matériaux plus doux et délicats. Le chaos règne avec l’ordre et l’équilibre est ainsi retrouvé entre les éléments.

Selected byUne façade vitrée d’un côté permet aux passants de découvrir l’intérieur tout en nuance de gris et métal. Le shop est délimité par des cloisons en acier courbes pour guider subtilement les clients dans leur navigation. Les panneaux coupés au millimètre près et d’une extrême précision sont aussi délicats et fins que du papier. Ce qui vient contraster avec les colonnes structurantes environnantes. Afin de venir jouer la dichotomie, le sol est entièrement recouvert de moquette moelleuse. Deux podiums en guise d’assises uniquement, tout est dans les mêmes tonalités. Afin de venir habiller ce plafond technique et visible Benoit Lalloz a conçu des luminaires qui vienne tramer le plafond et la boutique.

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kadobeclothing · 4 years

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Ali Abbas Admits he Has a ‘huge’ Crush on Mahira Khan

There’s an addition to the ever-growing list of Mahira Khan’s admirers and it’s none other than actor Ali Abbas.

Ali, son of veteran actor Waseem Abbas, let down his guard in a recent interview and admitted to being intensely infatuated with Mahira Khan for well over 10 years! “I have a huge crush, a huge crush on Mahira Khan and it’s been 10 years. I still have a huge crush on her. She is gorgeous, she is amazing,” said the Nazr-e-Bad actor. That’s not all – he could barely stop gushing over the stunning Mahira. “I think the grace Mahira has, I have never seen in an actor in Pakistan like that,” he added. Safe to say, Ali is smitten like countless others in Pakistan, and can we really blame him? Mahira is easily one of the most endearing celebs in Pakistan in recent memory and one of the biggest assets of the industry.

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kadobeclothing · 4 years

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Welspun India resumes partial manufacturing operations

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kadobeclothing · 4 years

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Hair Salons in Georgia Open Back Up Despite COVID-19 – WWD

Despite concerns from some salon owners over whether or not it’s safe, hair salons are getting ready to open back up in parts of the country after weeks of government-mandated closures due to the coronavirus pandemic. Governor Brian Kemp of Georgia announced Monday that some nonessential businesses in the state are allowed to open starting Friday, including hair and nail salons. South Carolina and Florida opened public beaches this week and governor of Tennessee Bill Lee announced that he is letting his state’s stay-at-home order expire April 30, after which most nonessential businesses will be allowed to open. In North Carolina, a stay-at-home order was extended until May 8, though business owners feel that they are next on the docket to get the green light to reopen.

While salon owners in these states are relieved to be able to start seeing clients and making money again, the announcements have spurred mixed reactions from the salon community. “Some seem really excited to get back, and others feel it’s way too fast,” said Edwin Neill, chief executive officer of Neill Corporation, an independent distributor of Aveda products in seven Southern states. Still, Neill said most salon owners he’s spoken to in his network are feeling the financial pressure and ready to get back to work as soon as lockdowns in their respective states are lifted. Salon owners are already placing orders with his company, gearing up to open in the coming weeks, he said.

“It seems like a good number [of salons] are planning to reopen [immediately],” said Jay Elarar, ceo of Moroccanoil, which distributes its products in about 10,000 salons on the U.S. market. Despite concerns over catching the virus, executives say consumer demand for hair services is still there — especially after weeks of service providers shut down across the country. “Through all of this, there’s one common thread we’ve been hearing — people want to get back to the salon,” said Elarar. “You can only go so long without people coloring their hair or God forbid, doing box color at home.” With COVID-19 continuing to spread and no vaccine in sight, the salon experience will look quite different than it did pre-virus. Health and safety precautions are top-of-mind for salon owners who are reopening. Though individual states are issuing COVID-19 health and sanitation guidelines through their cosmetology boards, the Professional Beauty Association is working on a cohesive protocol designed to help salons get back to business safely. PBA’s mandate is expected to be disseminated to state cosmetology boards and to salon owners across the country next week. “Salons are going to be open, but in a different way,” said Elarar, who sits on the PBA board and is working on the task force along with executives from L’Oréal and Schwartzkopf, that is designing the protocol. “There will be fewer clients per day, a quick in-and-out. Salon staff are going to have to wear masks and gloves.” Neill said that with social distancing in place, a lingering spa day with magazines and Champagne is no longer an option. “It will be more like a trip to the doctor’s office,” he said, with customers sitting in parking lots prior to appointments and waiting for a text when it’s safe to come in, then spending a minimal amount of time in the salon.

Services will likely be limited to “maintenance, not makeovers” like root touchups and cuts, said Dan Langer, president of R+Co and chief marketing officer at Luxury Brand Partners, in order to minimize appointment time and the number of people in salons. R+Co is sold in about 2,000 prestige salons in the U.S. Langer said the owners he has spoken with are choosing to reopen based on personal preference — most are reopening, some aren’t. Some salon owners in states where lockdowns are being lifted are opening due to financial pressure, though they remain worried about the safety of their staff and clients. Bryan Nunes, owner of Blo Salon in Raleigh, N.C., said his that salon, which employees over 40 stylists, is stocked with the sanitation supplies necessary to reopen, and he’s able to be flexible with his staff’s schedule and his opening hours to accommodate for fewer clients in the salon at a time. But he worries for smaller salons and independent booth renters in the area, who may be facing delayed shipping time on bulk orders of masks, gloves and sanitizing wipes. What’s more, they’ll be taking on fewer clients and making less money, but will be back on the hook for rent once they start business operations back up. “[These salons] can’t get a PPP loan or access to supplies, and all of a sudden [the government] wants them to reopen — there’s a lot of moving parts.” Conflicting communication from the government has made it difficult for small business owners to open up safely and effectively, said Nunes. “My question is why would you close us down to begin with if your opinion now is that it’s safe to reopen, even without the necessary supplies? [Salons] want to reopen, but we need to be set up for success.”

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