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A taste of Zarnesti: other than bears and our hotel, ain’t much going on in Zarnesti.
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And on the 5th day they rested. Morning in Măgura. Breakfast, sun, and a sleepy St.Bernard
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More on Bears
Because I really love bears- if you google Libearty Sanctuary, you will find their website which gives you the option of adopting a bear. I’m probably going to adopt 12 (definitely 1, at least) and I’m hoping in the future to work this into whatever classes I teach and have my classes adopt a bear.
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This video features Max (the blinded bear) and Monica. Monica does not like humans (or other bears, according to or guide), but she is very protective of Max. He is the only bear that she can share a territory with. Monica is afraid of people because of the abuse she suffered and will often charge the fence to try to drive tourists away. On a side note- the sanctuary is only open to the public 3 hours a day to give the bears as much privacy and quiet as possible. I had to stop myself from going full teacher mode because we were clearly told to keep a meter distance between us and the fence and to be quiet. It is amazing to me that the rest of the world (which is on the metric system) has so poor a concept of he distance of one meter (often they were only 3-4 inches from the fence). I was close to shushing everyone, finding a meter length stick to push them away from the fence, and almost exploded on them wrt Monica specifically. We were told she is afraid of humans. When the bear stared to demonstrate signs of fear, what does the crowd do? They move in closer to take more pictures and videos. That kind of behavior enraged me. The bears are not there for your entertainment. You are there to support them with money. They are there for your education and to help you build some kind of empathy and compassion. 😡 The attitude that ignores an animal’s fear is the same attitude that put them into captivity in the first place. So that’s my rant on humans.
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Sanctuary bears enjoy some lunch and then go for a swim. In the sanctuary, many of the bears can share spaces and territory because of the abundance of food. In the wild, they maintain their own personal territories.
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The Libearty sanctuary is home to 100 rescued brown bears that were raised and held in captivity. Some of them were circus bears, others were pets. In all cases, the bears were abused and mistreated by their human owners. The inspiration for the bear sanctuary, Maya, was never able to reside there. This bear was so unhappy that she self-mutilated and gnawed at her paws to the point of killing herself before the sanctuary was opened. Max (he’s one of the bigger darker bears features in these photos) was the bear kept at Peles Castle- a tourist attraction in Romania. To make him more docile and less bothered by flash photos, his owners used needles to blind him. The goal of the sanctuary is NOT to return the bears to the wild because most of them would not survive. Nor is it to breed the animals (there are quite a few of these brown bears in the wild). It is simply a place to give captive bears the closest thing they can have to freedom and it is intended to rehabilitate them. Many of the bears continue to exhibit what the the sanctuary volunteers referred to as cage syndrome: the bear maintains proximity to their fences or only moves a certain number of paces in each direction because they are so conditioned to the confines of a cage (like the one features in the images above).
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Day 6: Măgura to Zarnesti. We took a short cut today and knocked a solid 10km off of our hike. We arrived at Hosa cu Brazi after about an hour of hiking which allowed us to call a taxi and head to the Bear Sanctuary located outside of Zarnesti.
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Day 5 was super lazy and much deserved. Mostly sat around pensiunea nea Marin and read, played Uno, and walked as little as possible. Roasted trout was our dinner.
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And on the 5th day they rested. Morning in Măgura. Breakfast, sun, and a sleepy St.Bernard
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Finally made it into Magura and found out pensiunea (Pensiunea nea Marin). Other hikers greeted us as the owner was out. They told us we looked like shit and could tell that we had done the full 21km hike. A German hiker on the same tour as us said he opted to take a taxi for 8km of the hike... but the 24+ km we hiked were totally worth it for the views from this place and the dinner we had. Magura is a tiny village. There is very little here other than a handful of houses, a store that may or may not be open (you have to greet the family at their house to find out if the store is open), and a sketchy gas station type location that carries drinks. 50 years ago the town was only accessible by foot and hand cart. I still don’t think I’d trust a car taking me up the roads you have to traverse to get here.
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But there’s always a second wind when you reach the end and know that a cold coke is in reach! Some beautiful views as we reached our final ascent of the day and more of the crucifix waymarkers.
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Our doggy friend (Moses) joined us when we got lost. The puppy followed us from Fundatta all the way to Magura (15-16 km). If I could smuggle a dog from Romania to the US, I totally would. Morale was pretty low during this segment of the hike. It was long, hot and grueling. So I may have stopped taking pictures and just thought about not dying.
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Thursday: lots of up. Today was our longest day of hiking and we definitely got lost a number of times. After an initial up of about 1200 feet, we came to another meadow. And ran into a sheep carcass: organs and all staring at us.
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After a killer hike, you need a cuddly dog (steetza), a nice hotel, and a nice plate of rabbit for dinner 😁the rabbit was very tasty and I snuck Steetza a couple bites
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