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The Six Wines of Christmas Degustation (not to scale).

2009 Dom Perignon with smoked salmon, 2002 Dom Perignon with oysters two ways, 2004 Rockford Riesling with prawn and avocado, 2010 Coldstream Hills Reserve Chardonnay with scallops, pea puree and pancetta, 2010 Coldstream Hills Reserve Pinot Noir with bbq quail with salt & pepper and 2012 Chateau Cantin St. Emillion Grand Cru with beef wellington.

Both Doms were characteristically bready and rich, the 2009 quite developed and the 2002 defiantly youthful. Both, seemingly, at odds with accepted opinion. Both oozed class.   

The fourteen year old Eden Valley riesling was golden in the glass and equally so on the palate. Probably peaking next Wednesday, and very well matched with the prawns and Boney M Christmas tune. Eagle eyed readers will notice the tasting methodology adopted by sister of DazMaz.  

The eight year old Yarra Valley chardonnay probably still has a couple of years to go, remaining pale, in colour, but rich and fat on the palate. Good length and beautiful bouquet.   

Similarly, twin Burgundian sibling, the reserve pinot was also rich and long. Both benefitting from, presumably, the best fruit of the vintage.

The Saint Emillion Bordeaux was mostly Merlot and, again, rich, balanced and very nicely matched with the Wellington. 

All very enjoyable and I was uncharacteristically clear headed Boxing day morning. Cheers. 

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2009 Perrin & Fils Les Cornuds Vinsobres with “La nuit a devore le monde” and rare eye fillet.

Kicking of a short series of wine and zombie movie pairings. This nine year old Rhone Valley grenache syrah blend displayed the same funky characteristics, when first decanted, as the 2000 Crozes Hermitage featured back in August 2015.  Deep crimson in colour, and with a touch cough mixture on the nose, it was initially almost chewy on the palate, with savoury notes, red and black fruit, prominent tannin and jerky. After an hour or so, the meatiness dissipated leaving complimentry fruits and tannin.

Dominique Rocher’s La nuit a dévoré le monde (The night eats the world), released January 2018, is a dead-straight, lone survivor, zombie apocalypse thriller, which is actually quite good. It made good use of its Paris apartment block location, mostly avoided becoming snared in cliche, and the minimal dialogue means that they recorded both French and English language versions.  

Both recommended for a couple hours of something different.

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2014 Sterling Vineyards Napa Cabernet with rib on the bone and snow.

This was an Easter Monday treat in Jackson, Wyoming. Typically Napa Cabernet, with plenty of black fruit on the pallet, soft tannins and creamy vanilla from the American oak. The standing rib roast was cooked in a Weber grill, and two inches of snow had settled by the time the meat was ready. The Weber struggled to get much above 200 degrees but did it’s job. A carton of Rolling Rock nicely chilled outside the back door. 

Altogether now “Oh show me a home where the buffalo roam...”   

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NV Champagne Vve Fourny & Fils Blanc de Blancs with Sydney rock oysters, 2009 Lake’s Folly Chardonnay with Californian diver scallops, pea puree and prosciutto dust, 2010 Woodlands Heather Jean Cabernet Sauvignon with Tomahawk steak, 2009 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz with truffle dauphinoise cheese and 2007 Nigl Gruner Veltliner Eiswein with lemon and strawberry tarts.

Where to start... 

Happy birthday Lorena.

We also had a 2005 Penfolds St. Henri but forget to take a picture.

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The Twelve Fifteen Wines of Christmas and New Year (carried away style).

2008 Champagne Palmer & Co. with smoked salmon, 2007 Tyrrell’s VAT 1 Semillon with lobster, 1995 Chateau Potensac Medoc with beef wellington, 2005 Wynn’s John Riddoch Coonawarra Cabernet with Snowdonia cheese and 2008 Chateau de Myrat Sauterns with LeBonChoix Bahati. 

The period of excess concluded with a bang such that we exceeded the regulation twelve festive wines. These things happen...

The Champagne Palmer & Co. has become a favourite over the last few years and this Brut Millesime is a single vintage bend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot muenier sourced from the grand and premier cru of Montagne de Reims. Golden yellow in the glass the nose was warm, doughy and intense. The palate balanced stone fruit, acid and wood and was, again, both intense and very long. Y.U.M.

Another 2007 Hunter Valley semillon, the VAT 1, like the recently tasted Lovedale, was sealed under stelvin and very youthful for a ten year old. Reasonably pale in the glass, if had all the anticipated varietal characteristics, without any real surprises. Still reasonably acid, although very much in balance. Should easily last another decade at which time, hopefully, the secondary fruit and complexity will be more apparent. We also drank a 2006 Mount Pleasant Elizabeth semillon, which was more developed but slightly less intense. Another great example of Australia’s most original variety. The lobsters were supplied by the neighbours and were absolute whoppers. That must have been why I missed the photo of the Elizabeth!

The twenty two year old Bordeaux Cabernet was beautifully rich in colour, when decanted, and happily gave no hint that it was past it’s best. Sweet on the nose with plenty of dark fruit and spice underpinned by anticipated herbaceous notes.  Delicate balance of fruit, acid and wood, with a surprisingly strong and long finish. A beautiful wine that perfectly matched the beef wellington. I wish I had more.

The John Riddoch is one of the great examples of Coonawarra Cabernet. Herbaceous on the nose, deep and rich in the glass and precise and elegant on the palate. Red fruit, cigar, sweetness and length. Another bottle that could have lasted for years to come (had a bunch of people not drank it).  In some ways the French cabernet was a very feminine wine, whereas the Australian very male. However, I’m not sure I’m clever enough to explain why.

Another fancy dessert another Grand Cru Sauternes. Let’s be fair, we at DazMaz don’t spit and so my critical faculties, by this time, were of lessening adequacy. I do remember thinking it was, again, less sticky than the local wines of this style, and there was defintely orange peel (marmalade) on the pallet. Very nice with the patisserie. I do recall a second glass.

Now, who’s for a cleansing ale?

Happy New Year.     

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Previously on... The Twelve Wines of Christmas!

2002 Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage with Tin Can Bay prawns and Sydney rock oysters, 2004 Pewsey Vale Contours Riesling with buffalo wings and 2010 Frogmore Creek Pinot Noir with eye fillet.

Quickly approaching the age at which it can learn to drive, this Moet, from a brilliant vintage, drank beautifully.  A pinkish hue seemed to have developed in the glass and the very fine bead, whilst elegant, did seem less vigorous than previous bottles. Rich on the palate, more patisserie than bread, with a long finish.

Our long term reader will recognise the Contours riesling as a DazMaz favourite (DazMazFaz) and the 2004 remains superb.  intense varietal fruit, beautifully developed and long. Less spritz than the recent Lovedale, but still detectable.

The seven year old pinot, from Southern Tasmania, was light in colour but nicely balanced, with moderate length. Very much a product of its geography. Will probably not get any better with further age. 

We did sample more bottles but the old forgot-to-take-a-photo tickle struck again. Ho ho ho.

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The Twelve Wines of Christmas part the third.

2007 Richmond Grove Watervale Riesling, 2007 Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon and 2007 De Bortoli Pinot Noir, by candlelight.

We didn't plan for this batch of wines to all be exactly a decade old, but were none-the-less happy with serendipity. The Clare Valley riesling had developed a warm golden hue and drank lovely. Nicely balanced green apple, citrous fruit and residual acid. Probably peaking right about now.

The Hunter Valley semillon had  both a great vintage and great vineyard underpinning it’s quality. Similarly golden in the glass, to the riesling, this remains only part way through it’s developmental journey. The anticipated minerality, citrous fruit and slightest effervescent kiss all confirm it’s eating it’s greens and completing it’s homework, in common with all overachievers.

The Yarra Valley pinot noir was very much a product of it’s geography and variety. Almost pinkish red in the glass, it had the expected cigar and mushroom on the nose. Generous in the mouth and reasonably long. It went very well with the roast turkey and duck, with which it was served.   

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The Twelve (need to get a move on) Wines of Christmas.

2012 Pierro Margaret River Chardonnay, 2013 Tyrrell’s VAT 6 Hunter Valley Pinot Noir and 2007 Chateau de Rayne Vigneau Sauternes.

Recognising the closing window of opportunity we at DazMaz steamed ahead with another premium Chardonnay.  The 2012 Pierro was pale in colour but bright on the nose. Buttery brioche sustained elegant fruit, beautifully balanced by the acid and wood. A top tipple that still has plenty of time, but is delicious right now.  

Moving back to the Hunter Valley, the VAT 6 pinot noir grapes are sourced from the 4 and 8 acre vineyards, close to the more traditional Hunter varietal shiraz grapes. Apparently the fruit is fermented with 30% whole bunches, which provide an almost chewy texture to the palate. Light in colour and savoury on the nose, this remains an original interpretation of it’s varietal style.  Dusty yet elegant, it should last a few years yet but, like the Pierro, is beautiful right now.

At ten years of age the Grand Cru Sauternes was light gold in colour and bright on the nose. Rich and meaty on the palate, rather than sticky or cloying, with sweet stone fruit, nuts and a spicy, longish finish. I wish I had another bottle to keep a further ten years, but sadly not.  Altogether, rather good. 

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The Twelve Wines of Christmas.

2009 Tyrrell’s VAT 47 Hunter Chardonnay

A well known Chardonnay from a region better known for it’s brilliant Semillon. This was purchased directly from the winery, a year or so after bottling, and was a strange drop. Very pale in colour, there was scarcely any fruit which accentuated the acid and wood. Probably closer to a Chablis style rather than typical White Burgundy, but not a great example of this, normally, solid wine. 

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Quinquagenarian celebrations part three.

2002 Lanson Gold Label, 2003 Rockford Riesling, 2004 Pewsey Vale The Contours Riesling, 1995 Penfolds Grange, 2000 Lindermans Pyrus.

The month of Daz continued with dinner with the Folks and Siblings at Sprout Cafe, Auchenflower. The Champagne was bready and rich and a reminder of how good the 2002 vintage remain.  The Rockford riesling was golden with perhaps a hint of green, the citrous acidity beautifully balanced with fruit.  The Contours riesling was less developed but with plenty of promise.  I had a glass of each with traditional onion soup and all was well in the world.

At twenty two years old the Grange presented somewhere between red and purple, on the eye, but was vaguely subdued on the nose when first decanted. Fortunately the bouquet developed over the next hour and by the time it was poured there was an abundance of red and black fruit, vanilla and chocolate. The palate improved with each sip, with tannins, acid, fruit and alcohol elegantly balanced with great length, finesse and structure. Delicious and wholly deserving its reputation.

The seventeen year old Pyrus was a Coonawarra Bordelaise inspired blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec. This bottle wore its varietal style on the nose being herbaceous, smokey and rich, presenting an almost brownish hue to an inky purple and claret. Savoury and long, it both contrasted and complimented the Grange and was perfectly matched to my grilled lamb rump with creamy green pepper sauce. Yum.

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Quinquagenarian celebrations part one.

2002 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs, 1996 Mount Pleasant Lovedale, 2010 Giaconda Chardonnay, 2008 Jayer-Gilles Echerzeaux Grand Cru and 2007 Berry Bros. & Rudd own selection Margaux.

As I approach my half-century, and I should clarify that means age in years rather than waist in inches, our friends next door hosted a fabulous dinner, which afforded the opportunity to crack open a few special bottles.

We kicked off with the fifteen year old champagne, from the house of Salon, which did not disappoint. Buttery brioche was balanced with orange and lemon peel. Complex and long and very complimentary to the fresh rock oysters. The twenty-one-year-old Hunter Valley Semillon was an age defying golden colour in the glass, possibly with a hint of kerosene on the nose.  Great balance between youthful acidity and secondary complexity (honey and stone fruit) suggests a good few years remain for good bottles, like this one. The Beechworth chardonnay was a powerhouse of fruit and oak, structured in perfect harmony. Subtle, complex, distinguished, brilliant.

The nine-year-old Burgundy had an abundance of mushroom, cigar and detritus on the nose, when first opened, but it sadly dissipated once poured. The palate was delicious and longish but I probably anticipated this bottle more than any other, and it was the only one to feel slightly disappointing. Perhaps this is the curse of pinot. The ten-year-old Bordeaux blend was characteristically delicate, finessed and balanced.  Very well matched to the standing rib roast. It will probably flex its muscles in a few years time. Special mention, also, for the roast tatties (careful) and Yorkshire’s.

Sadly I didn’t get photos of the Moet, Art Series Shiraz and Sticky that rounded out the evening. Nor the plethora or sea-food, the cheese nor the sticky-date birthday cake with butterscotch sauce.  I was drinking…

 Thanks to the extended Vallance family for a brilliant night.  Very much appreciated.  Cheers.            

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2013 Grosset, Tyrrell’s VAT 6 and Sticks A8 block Pinot Noir with Epoisses.

An impromptu Pinot taste off between three bottles from the same vintage, but different regions (Grosset Adelaide Hills, Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley and Sticks Yarra Valley).  All three were similarly  bright and vivd in the glass, with the typical varietal brick red hue.  The boquet on the Sticks was possibly the most Burgundian, plumb and cigar, the Grosset spicy and smokey with the Tyrrell’s between the two.  All three were beautifully structured, balanced and elegant. Plumb, red and black cherry, sour notes and reasonable length throughout.  Each wore it’s regional characteristics with pride.  I’d suggest the Grosset will last longest, followed by the Sticks and then the Tyrrell’s however the differences will be marginal.  Each equally impressive.      

The Epoisses is a washed-rind, unpasteurised cow’s cheese favoured by Napoleon and still banned on public transport in France. Originating from Burgundy and towards the extreme end of pungent, it so perfectly matched the pinot, it was almost cliched. Bravo.

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1995 Penfolds St. Henri with cheese and fruit.

I’d always assumed that St. Henri was 100% shiraz but there, in the photo, is proof that it is occassionally blended.  This twenty two year old was brought out at the end of a reasonably boozy dinner with the in-laws and, according to the internet, was 85% shiraz and 15% cabernet.  I did have the good sense to record some thoughts which suggest black fruit and fennel on the nose. Complex on the pallet with black currant, plumb and a hint of oak.  It was quite jammy, however, the fruit and tannins were just about holding together, and the length was pretty good.  If you have a bottle I’d probably plan to drink it soon, but this one was very enjoyable. 

As was the company.

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I should, also, really read my old posts because the one about the 1986 St. Henri mentions the fact that it is a shiraz/cabernet blend. D’oh!

Looking at that photo, I suspect the glass of wine isn't actually the St. Henri, which is too high in the neck. We'd had a few by that time...

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2005 Pooley Coal River Valley Pinot Noir with Rib Fillet

Pooley is another Southern Tasmanian winery visited during our recent jaunt.  The cellar door was particularly good, offering a broad range of wines to taste, plus a number of back vintages for sale.  The wood fired pizza was also great, and worth checking out, if you’re planning a visit.

This twelve year old was just about ready.  Bright in colour and aromatic on the nose.  Black and red fruit, plumb, cigar, woody and saprophytic on the pallet.  Reasonable length.  The steak and tatties were also local produce and were a credit to their region.  Altogether moorish. 

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2015 Frogmore Creek Fume Blanc with freshly shucked Bruny Island Oysters.

Purchased directly from the winery, during a recent whirlwind trip to Hobart, this oaky Sauvignon Blanc was closer to the French ‘Sancerre’ style rather than the wildly popular Marlborough variety.  Floral on the nose, savoury on the pallet and with a dry finish. 

The accommodation didn't provide a shucking knife and so the oysters were opened with a small carving knife, which promptly snapped as the last oyster popped open.  Overflowing with natural brine and a hint of lime juice, they perfectly accompanied the Fume. So fresh and good, we went back for more the next day.     

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Wine tasting in Southern Tasmania, with restraint.