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Dewalt DCS361B 20v cordless compound miter saw

The thing then we're going to do some cutting demonstrations. Basically, it takes the DeWalt 20 volt battery right here as the blade motor assembly seven and quarter inch blade on these things. We have locking mechanisms for the compound, so, for example, and we've got to make sure we get everything out of there. If we're cutting small lumber, we can lock this in a rear position or we lock it for storage. So it doesn't move. That'S what this little knob is going to do and, of course, we can cut at 90 degree angles. Our flapper right up here is relatively standard for that we're going to flap that down and flap it up and loosen up another another bolt so that we can flip that around. We will give with that here in a minute, but I've got to loosen some stuff up. We'Ve got, of course, the trigger mechanism with a little safety thing. 

We'Ve got an LED light, so you can light the area that you're cutting we've got a release mechanism so that we can flip this in the upward position, trying to figure out. Why usually the upward position? Oh there we go, you have to press that down and then that's that's going to lock and we can. We can lock that so we go up. We press this down and we lock big positive notches here. That'S kind of nice very beefy mechanism, okay, so for our tilting we've got this big knob here should be able to just tilt one of the things I'm noticing is. It does only tilt in one direction. So if you need to do cuts the other way, you have to flip your workpiece all the way around. It'S not going to be a double double tilt, so we've got that set up and, of course, you would lock that in place by tightening that down. This mechanism appears to be adjustable and removable, but you would expect to not mess with that once everything's in place. 

We'Ve done an attachment point for a dust bag or a vacuum. I'M going to be using that, probably with the DeWalt cordless vacuum. The adjustments look pretty positive on this I'll, be doing some cutting demonstrations, we'll see it. It does come with a relatively fine tooth to wall. Blade looks like a pretty good. One got the anti-vibration laser cuts again. Your laminate flooring is going to beat up these blades, so you still have to look at relatively frequent blade replacement when you're doing laminate flooring, which is what this thing's really going to be made for. When we look at the sliding mechanism on this, that's made to give you enough reach to get into that laminate flooring and take the saw with you instead of having to get up and go to another part of the room to make those cuts. 

At the end of a run of laminate flooring, we've got a nice carry handle here very heavy-duty. One of the things that strikes me about this is it's. It'S got that Dewalt heavy duty quality to it, and that is that's a plus. I would expect something like this: it's going to take a little while to pay for itself, it's a $ 300 saw it's not going to pay for itself in the first job the way, alright, we would, but it also you're using more expensive construction material. You can't afford two ways to the recut. 

This thing is going to pay for itself over time and your capability of doing jobs that otherwise you might not be able to do, and for me this is really going to be the wide-format laminate flooring without having a set of a big miter saw reviews that we have To carry all the pieces outside to do the cutting on so next we're going to show some cutting demonstrations. You can see how easily this cuts now. This is a brand new blade with every single cut, and normally you would want to clamp work like this because it would grab, but your watch yeah.

I didn't have to hold that down because it's you know that's so new and sharp, but normally you just can't get small battery power, chop saws to do framing lumber like that, not that easily, even even with premium blades in my Ryobi oops. So that's that's! Basically, the cutting, and normally I couldn't even get a premium blade in a Ryobi to do that sort of a thing so we'll show some more cutting demonstrations later. 

Of course, we've got the adjustments here. It'S it's a little tricky. This is actually a locking mechanism, though so to unlock it. We do this and then, of course, we slide it over. The 45 degree angle it's hard for me to describe in a video how easy this is, but it's a nice smooth ball bearing type mechanism when we do that.

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DeWALT 20 Volt Max Cordless 7-1/4" Miter Saw - DCS361M1

Hey everyone, Brian, with workshop addict today. Let'S take a look at dEWALT's 20 volt max, cordless sliding compound miter saw this is a seven and a quarter inch blade with a 5/8 inch arbor. It has 30 750 rpm and it's made as a professional saw. It will miter to 48 degrees, both right and left, and it will also bevel up to 48 degrees. Now at a 45 degree cut with miter. You can cut two by six lumber 90 degree. You can cut 2 by 8 lumber and if you bevel all the way to 45 degrees, you can still cut inch and a half lumber. If you're. 

Looking at this to use as a trim saw, you can put in up to three and five-eighths inch trim standing up vertically in the back and cut it no problem. In fact, Dewalt says: if you put in three and a quarter inch pine base molding you can get up to two hundred and seventy five cuts with the saw now. That'S pretty impressive, considering Dewalt sent this with a four amp hour battery and I like that, because it's a little bit of some confidence coming from Dewalt. They do have larger battery packs. 

We started using this miter saw reviews and we were making some flooring. So we were cutting two by six treated lumber. We started making walls, so we started cutting more two by sixes and we started to do some trusses and other items with it that were two by fours and two by sixes, and then we started to move on and say: okay, there are three things with: this Saw that we really want to prove one, does it have the runtime to work in the field? For somebody who can use this as professional jobsite? Does it have the power to continue to cut not only the framing lumber that we're using, but also some of the more hard lumber? So can this be used as a replacement miter saw for somebody, so they don't even need a corded one in threes, light enough and easy enough to carry around well starting with number three. We took this multiple places to cut lots of different wood and we tried to use it in different areas that maybe would be a little more difficult with the court. 

It saw simply just because you had to drag a cord to it, but it's 32 pounds. It'S easy to carry around stores nicely, we put it on a mitre base or a miter saw stand, and we found that the actual mitre saw stand is almost double the way to the saw, so we can use it in multiple different areas. It'S no doubt. It'S easy to carry around it's easy to store. I give them awesome rating for them, putting this together and making it in a nice package. That'S easy to carry well thought-out. Now, when it comes to power, we found that not only was it working excellent on normal framing lumber or treated lumber. We also started out saying: okay, let's go source and thicker oak. Alright, we no issue with the oh. We moved on to some Hickory and we were doing eight eight quarter hickory and then we moved on to some Purple Heart, which is even harder to go through than that. So the sock cut perfectly through all of it. 

And while we had to go a little bit slower, it worked out great, we let the blade do the job and everything was wonderful. So if you're gon na use this as a replacement, saw, I think it's very possible now moving on to the jobsite and can it perform well? Well, we built a seven by seven barn and basically start to finish. We use this for everything that we needed a miter saw for, and we didn't have a circular saw out at all. We basically just said hey: this is it. We had no problem getting through the full barn build with this saw alone, and we still had battery charge left at the end of the day. Basically, with that barn build with the hardwood cuts in with some other composite cuts, we still made it through instill we're on one battery pack. 

Now we continue to make some cuts and found that once the battery does go dead, there are LED lights up in the guard here. That actually creates a shadow when you're on the inside for the cut line rather than a laser, but those LED lights will start to blink. So once they blink, it means the battery's dead and you can move on put it. You know charge the battery or put a new one in. I think no problem on a job site worst case scenario: you'd go through two batteries in the day, but I think most cases you'd probably be able to run through one battery depending how often this is getting used. 

We didn't go through and do a cut test on it. Just you know, time after time cutting, because that's really not how it's going to be used in the real world and our test of just seeing how long it will go constantly cutting to by dimensional lumber was just awesome. We had well over probably a hundred and forty cuts on this saw with two by six lumber and it just kept going the few things that stand out to me on the saws its accuracy. It'S very easy to move the miter angle and it's also easy to move the bevel angle. The miter angle has a lot of detents in there. So if you want to get, you know very quickly to some of the popular cuts, it's very very simple. 

Just to move it over, let the detent grab it and everything is adjustable. So if your detent, you find is not exactly where you want it to be, you can adjust the detent stop. So the accuracy on this was designed very, very well same with the bevel angle. If you find that your bevel is not perfect at the positive stop at zero or at 45, you can adjust both and you can even adjust it. So it'll go farther than zero. I believe to a negative three degree angle, so the adjustment parts here are excellent. The dust collection system - this is the first miter - saw that I've used that the actual dust by a bag gets full. Now, that's excellent in the angle of it's perfect. In fact,

 I was talking to John about and he's like wow. Well, it's the most economical thing for collection now with the mobile unit. Here, what I found is, after we caught it. Eventually, this bag was full. We threw it in the truck and went to the next jobsite. Well, as you see at this angle, the sawdust will also trickle back down and collect down here, not a big deal. It was one of those things that kind of surprised me, because most of these bags don't collect much. This one seemed to collect quite a bit and as we stored it and moved it around in, we didn't clean this out. This continued to leak a little bit of sawdust by far not an issue, but I thought it was kind of humorous that this actually was designed and worked well, storing this on putting it into storage position very simple. 

The detents are here, there's a little lock on the slider in the back. The sliding system is excellent. It'S very smooth, very easy to use battery positioning Outback doesn't get in the way the handle everything's there. The safety switch. That'S on the trigger is a simple you. Just push it over and it's easy to do. Right-Handers not an issue. Left-Handers aren't isn't an issue either, but it's it seems like it flips the wrong way for a left-handed person. My dad, who was left-handed, was using it for quite a while in he got used to it after about six cuts, but the first six he wanted to push the safety the other way, but it's a very nice little trigger safety works. Well, the LED light. If you want to use this to shine down, like most laws, have lasers or some saws have lasers, I don't like the lasers, I don't use them. 

I always just put the blade down on the wood, see where I'm going to cut that way. I know exactly what sides getting cut for what line and things just work out better for me not having to rely on it. You can't see lasers outdoors and with this LED light when you're inside the shadow line is excellent, but if you even have the garage door open or you're outside the shadow line for us didn't even show up, so we got used to or just old school. We use the blade, but the shadow line inside was pretty nice, so in a complete package. Considering that you do have onboard tools here, if you want to change the blade, this was actually a very, very impressive saw we loved using it, and I'm going to continue to try to use this, as my main saw one of the other things that we really Noticed is how well the blade cut with the battery. Now. This blade actually has a picture of this saw on, so the blade was actually meant for the saw and it has a thin curve. It'S a 40-tooth carbide. 

It cut well through hardwood. It cut excellent through the framing lumber that we had and even treated so things really worked well with the saw, and I think, if you want to buy this either for the jobsite to use anywhere outside in construction or, if you're going to buy this. As your single miter saw in your shop, I think you will find that you will be very impressed with it and it will work well. Just remember, it is a seven and a quarter inch, so you're not going to go out and cut four by fours or anything like that, but it does have its limitations. 

But it is a very impressive, very accurate, very well cutting, saw we'll have more information on our blog with more specifics, more pictures we're going to continue to use this saw, as our main miter saw so leave your comments in the bottom. Tell us what you think about it. If you have questions or if you purchased this saw and are using it tell us about it, we want to hear about it. Let'S communicate with each other, stop by our format workshop at accom. We also have basically a tool section, woodworking metal fabrication in home improvement sections there. We can talk about how we'd use this in different areas, and I appreciate you taking the time to watch this video. I hope you have a great day.

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Delta Cruzer Miter Saw Tool Review

Hello: here's my review of my new Delta Cruiser 12 inch, dual bevel sliding miter saw. I picked it up today, November 22nd, 2017, the day before Thanksgiving at Menards for $ 4.99, and that does not appear to be any kind of a sale price. It'S a good price and they were the only ones that had it in stock. As far as I know, this is the only other saw to use the hinge system other than the Bosch Glide, and it has some other very interesting features too. Let'S take a look. The front lock knob, I really like it's a quarter turn only so you're not twisting and twisting to tighten simple fast. I like it. I also really like the rock-solid detents on the angle adjustment that just locks right in every time. 

There'S no slop, it's very solid and accurate. The handle is very simple. I like the fact that it's horizontal, not vertical and the switch doesn't have any lock out that you have to fumble with so left-handed right-handed, it's great. It'S right. There grab the trigger and it goes if you do absolutely have to lock out the trigger the trigger, has about a quarter inch, it's a little bigger than a quarter hole in it. You can put a quarter inch bolt in there, maybe even a padlock and lock it out. As far as the blade path insert goes, the gap is really wide and thin strips have caught off, tend to fall in there and kind of get stuck in there.

 I did end up making a zero clearance insert on Thanksgiving Day and found this old piece of hardwood it's 1364 thick. I found the hinge system on this best compound miter saw to be very rigid and I could get the blade to deflect from side to side. If I really pushed on it side to side plan on using the saws, it was intended and just pushing forward and backwards, and so I don't anticipate any problems with blade: deflections, okay, here's my first cut, there's also no LED no shadow line and no laser yeah. 14 and 3/8, the full cut is 13 and a half, but - and this is one of the reasons I'm very excited about this saw - is that these come off. 

Then you flip these little tabs and you put a piece of two by hon on the base, and now you have to completely cut through your sacrificial piece in order to get the full deal. Your sacrificial piece ends up in two pieces and what was the length of this cut 15 and 1/8 little overnight? 15 3/16. I was hoping it would do 18 inches. This is 18 and a half, let's see 17 and 1/8. Okay, so doing the little tip up trick gets us out to 18 and 1/8, so it does not completely cut this off at a 45. You do not get the finish of the cut at that, so the max it does it. 45 is 16 and a half 2 by 600 or 5 and a half inches high. 

If it's left in its default setup, you can't cut 2 by 6 because it hits right here, but this has a neat little setting right there that moves the blade locks, the blade just a little bit forward so that to buy lumber 6. Let'S see what is the max? Well, let me cut this 2 by 6 off first, I noticed the dust collection worked, a lot better, cutting lumber that way too. It really actually got most of that cedar dust, if not almost all of it, so it kind of depends on what you're cutting if it's cutting something laying flat and it's pretty bad, but if you're cutting to buy upright dust collection was much better. 

So I won't do I don't think it'll do this can't even get a 2x8 under the blade okay. So this is a piece of wood, it's one inch thick and it is six and three eighths tall that did that to the it it got pretty close. Actually, sixteen six and three eighths was actually pretty close to this to this opening. Here, that's that's awesome. You know, I said typically you're gon na cut that like this. Alright, let's try that let's try that at a forty five, let's try that the shield I got ta, I got ta move the shield with my thumb, it's getting to its maximum. 

Oh, let's go this way. Let'S go this way because what it's hitting me it's hitting the axle but bearing the bearing block. So let's go over here: let's go to 45. This way, 45 degrees. I got a rock that she'll back yes, so it does cut 45 that way. So this is the blade that it comes with Delta 60 tooth 12-inch. Basic blade does okay, so I put in a 96 tooth Irwin marbles. The blade change is a little clumsy. The wrench is right here you got ta loosen this. You got ta loosen this one up quite a ways you know you're, not just loosening it up. 

A couple turns this one. I just loosened up. You know not even one turn, but this one you've got to loosen up far enough to get past this, and then you can move that out of the way and get to it. So it's a little clumsy, but I suppose it's not really any different from any other saw. It'S got. It'S got a nice good safety guard on it. Okay, so I mentioned it was just a little bit out of square, so we're gon na square this up and what it looks like you do. Is you take these four screws out one two, three four: you leave this in a detent and then you, then you move the whole thing. So, let's see if I've got that figured out, let's give that a quarter turn give that a quarter turn about a quarter. 

Turn on that quarter. Turn on that see here. Does it slide yep? I saw it move jog this just a little. Actually, that might have been enough right. There took a little while, but I did get it to cut right on square, and hopefully you can see that, but that is that is right on okay, so any any blade deflection is gon na result in blade marks tooth marks tooth scratches. In this I mean this: this is really good there. I there really isn't any blade deflection issues there. By deflection, I mean from satin now. Why isn't that square? Don'T what okay? So I ran into a problem where, when I'm using this bed and I'm stepping up to get the deeper cut, it wasn't cutting square cut a cut square when it when I I'm cutting down here cuts square. But when I move up here it wasn't cutting square. 

So what I had to do was build this up with two thicknesses of Rockler Nilo tape to get that so that we are making a straight line all the way across. So that was how I fixed this cut surface for square. How deep is this saw realistically you're gon na have to do something with the vacuum hose. So you know, I suppose, yeah if you had the vacuum hose up above, it's 31 inches from the face of that handle to the back of this mounting clamp for the power cord, pretty impressive, good job Delta. Okay. So if you need to put this in an existing mitre station, the motor comes out at about two feet: high a little over the handle 27.

 Maybe this is like right at about 27 inches 20. Let'S see here, it's got. Some flanges sits it's under 26 wide. So there's no factory extensions well hold on a second. What'S this under here? Okay, let's look at: let's look at the underside of this once alright, whoever shows the underside of these tools so on the underside. We have nothing to hold that they have the shapes here. As if they were gon na put some bars that could come that way, but there isn't anything there's no mounting for that, but that's the underside of it. So this is the back of it does not come with any vacuum. 

Adapting connectors nothing. This holes was just one that I had okay, let's look at the hose diameter this hose. I think I've said it before it's just one that I had it's one in 3/8. This is, this is basically 1 and 3/8. That'S the inside, so the outside is 1 and 1/2, so it's about 1 and 1/2 inch outside 1 and 3/8 inside this 1 and 3/8 diameter hose fits nicely in there and that's probably where it'll stay. I don't know where I got this hose, so I can't tell you where to find that this saw weighs in right around 60 pounds. Am I happy with the saw? Yes definitely a keeper? I am. I am very very pleased with this saw good job Delta. That'S my review thanks for watching

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Dados on the Mitre Saw

If you don't have a table sort, then it's still very easy to make a precise dado using a sliding compound miter saw, but for this to work it does have to be a sliding. My turn to make a dado on the miter saw. We need a temperate fence and we need to bring the fence board and the reason we need to do. That is, if you look at the saw blade when you're doing the normal cut.

Then you'll see those below the surface of the insert and the back of the cut goes beyond the fence there. But if we limit the depth of the cuts which we need to do to make a dado, then if you look at the bottom of the curve, then you'll see that it doesn't reach the back of the fence doesn't go beyond so we need to bring the Fence forward next, we'll make a cut through the temporary fence without going all the way through at the bottom. Next, we need to set the depth stop and your saw should have one this one here is mine.

 I don't take any notice of the increments on there. I marked my workpiece and I'll pull the saw down into position and lock it in place like that. So I'll do that Matt, I'm probably making this look difficult, but I'm trying to do that getting in front of the camera. I think that's about right that to make the data we could just like a couple lines and then cut to those lines by eye, but that won't be very accurate. So the way to do it is with this little tool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKp2xewC7fg

Here, it's called turf maker. I made this one in my last video and I showed how to use it and how they would so. I'M not going to go into detail here, but if you want to find out more about that, then I'll put a link above one thing is when I made it this one is now set for my table saw - and I already had one and now this one Is set for my miter saw so I have one for each, which is quite handy, so let's make the curtain I'll set this up for this thickness of wood and make the cut . Now we have it perfect, so that works perfectly well, it's very easy to set up and it's not a bad option at all and if you don't have a table saw, but you have a sliding compound miter saw, then you can still make dagoes. So thanks for watching, hopefully you enjoyed it. If you did please like and subscribe and I'll see you on the next one, you

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Custom-Made Miter-Saw Stop Makes Repeat Cuts Easier

If you need to cut a bunch of pieces to the same length on your miter saw, you could go out and spend a couple hundred dollars on an elaborate miter saw stand with a built-in stop, but there's a better way. Doug carver of Athens. Georgia has figured out a way to make this a half inch floor, flange, along with a piece of galvanized pipe into an adjustable stop for his miter saw here's how it works. The first thing he has to do is to modify the flange so that it'll fit on his miter box. In this case, we had to cut a flat spot on the top and one on the bottom, so it would fit what you'll have to do to fit.

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Crosscut A Wide Piece On The Miter Saw

I'Ve got my shoes of plywood here, it's a half sheet, they just ripped the a job straight it and I need to cut it to a shorter length. I need a piece off the end here for the top of my router table, and I've got two choices who I've got three? Actually I could try to cut it on the table saw using some kind of a crosscut sled. My panel cutter could do it if I had the space on the other side over there. However, I don't I'm not going to move this all over here. To do that, I can also cut it with a handheld saw like a circular saw, or has our jigsaw whatever a way that you know whatever tool that you happen to have, for that. I could do it like that, or I could do it on. 

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Craftsman 10 inch Compact Sliding Compound Miter Saw Review

Hello welcome to daily Woodworks. My name is Robert daily and I'm your host and the lab that you probably can't see on camera is sarva. Today I am going to review my birthday present. This is the fresh little world 10 inch compact sliding miter saw it's different than the standard miter saw, and it's a more compact model and I'll go into details about the differences between that in a minute. But I got this the other day. I'Ve had time to make a few test cuts with it see how everything was the alignment things like that, and so far I'm very happy. I pay and the list price today on craftsman website is 206. 99.

 Is the price on cotton club site today, and so that's what I paid for it and the standard model or the regular compact sliding miter saw shows for 199, but I think I saw it or 179 is a new price for so what's difference between this salt And the standard miner saw is this one, it said: take 39 percent less thanks online. The reason for that is, unlike most miter saws out, look at I compared a lot of miter saws before I bought this and decided on this model is the rails here. I'Ve fixed in place, and so you it says you can put it right up into the wall now I found that for everything to get clearance with the dust bag and saw headman he's got about hints from the wall, but the rails uppermost solves the rails, move With the salting and the saw head is fixed in place on this one, the salt head moves along this carriage. 

Let'S get Viking yeah see if the salted this moves along its carriage right. It goes all the way out, but I have the cord wrapped out. Right now is unplug, and so that's how this all works. I chose that because you've seen my shop if you watched any of my other videos or if you follow my website daily Woodworks calm. I don't have much space, so I set it up right against this wall and move it when I don't need to so, let's kind of go in look at the features. This is only a single bevel craftsman has three 10-inch mitre saws, slightly miter saws on their website. 

They have, I think, a couple of big slices. They have the professional series which is belt driven, and so the motors up here set of downs inside and then they have the two 10 inch best sliding miter saw that are direct drive. Okay, I just fitted the songs all around, so you can see how the motor and everything lines up you got your trigger here. It doesn't have one of those weird safety, thumb switches. It'S just you reach your hand, pull the trigger and comes on the laser lights, which is right here. I found that the laser was get on out of box like it was right on your cut line, set up to the left side and then your adjustments are your adjustments to change that are right here and it's protected by the cover. So you don't accidentally bump it get out of alignment, watts and storage or anything like that. Nothing gets pretty clever. 

Actually, so, let's go into a little comparisons between the differences. Really, the main difference is just the weight of rails work, and so this one goes against the wall, the other one you need to make about clearance for the wall, and that was really the key selling point for me is how that worked on other than that. These use the same 15 amp motor, the same kind of direct drive system and probably other than that for the motor and trigger part. This head is probably exactly the same on the two different cells. Some of the reviews said this one collects dust better than the other one that I'll cover that more in just a minute. As far as adjustments go, there's standard, you got your handle here. 

This was the only part I had to install force to handle from the box, and course your hold down clamp and your dust bag. That'S only part just connect the screw. Everything else was good from the box. It'S got a minor detent to override right here, where it locks the latch in place that locks in place automatically, and then you can lock your angle down with this lever right here and that's just some spring act. Just a spring activated. 

Stop that keeps everything nice and firm, and I think that looks very well. So, let's see what do I like out the box, this thing was dead, accurate or accurate. As my squares are, this is um. My favorite square is big, yellow square um things that Empire brands. Maybe I got it at Home Depot Lowe's, one of those stores, it's accurate, for what I need for got another I've got a six inch combination square if it's also very accurate, and I use that to set up and test my 90 degrees, my 45 degrees and So forth, and so out of the boxes get on and as far as adjustments go, 

I mean I've been showing you as I've been showing you a different side for the salt. So far, it's smooth, of course it's clean and right of the box right now. I'M freshly grease and all these kind of things you know a week on a job saw site that might be like trying to rough. You called sandpaper. The only thing I had to do an adjustment on for accuracy was doing. I'M going to call this the my driving across the bevel that might be completely wrong. This was dead-on as far as accuracy, but this red indicator - that's here you see, I can carry this red indicator was just slightly off. 

I could just look like it got bumped and shipping or something - and I just moved that to zero as far as everything else goes to zero to adjust the bevel there's a lever on the back and it's gotten a stop at 45 degrees that was sprightly set. Stop at zero and then, if you push in a little red button that you can't really get see, you might be able to see that on camera, pushing this little red button, it will stop at 33.9, I'm not a finished carpenter. So I have no idea why 33.9 it's important, but I'm sure it's important somebody who needs exiting or loading, so that is the only way it tilts to be right or left, and so that's that and this guest i lever it locks in place. 

You can pull out from this lever and change how it operates. You can reach around it'd be nice if it did from the front. This is a $ 200 solve this, isn't a $ 700 Bosch which I would have loved to be able to afford, but one that thing is huge and ii: don't have that kind of money to spend on the tool right now. So, let's move on to what do i'm not like about it? So again, this is a two hundred dollar salt 230, whatever it happens to be listed for whenever you decide to look at it. So what i just like are few things and its really have a look at it, because i was very pleased and excited with this saw. The first thing is the blade, and that is a complaint. 

You are going to get pretty much, no matter what saw you buy unless you buy high ends. So i imagine if i want to spend $ 700 more on a saw, I expected to come with it. For quality work late, so this is crashing grinding, blade, 62 VIN curve and on cross cuts, comparing it to the new $ 70 Freud industrial combination way to have it doesn't cut as smooth as that way, but that's a seven dollar blade that sucks. What about the third of the cost of the saw it's just in that subway, so I expected to get there um. That being said, it's not horrible! I'M ensign cut-offs, which are pretty much pointless to show you on camera, but overall these cut-offs and these motors are pretty good. 

I mean I can feel that if I were to take 220 to this and stand it, I could get a little smoother. I would say 150 grit sandpaper and about what that feels like now that Freud blade like makes it just shiny, almost it cuts so smoothly. So that's enough, but it's not so bad that I'm not going to use this plate. I will used to play the camel nasaw until I start getting more cuts and then I will replace it with a high quality premium blade. Another thing I've noticed just as I was doing, test cuts on scrap lumber assault gets in its own way. This is your hold down, and this arm it's in a now. Well now that's way so that might be nitpicking people as is adjust. 

If you have this here and then lean the head over this Grail, it's top of this, so you got to move this out of the way just so the salt can get 49 40 degree, 45 degrees. All right cannot say 45 %, so you got to do that just because these rails are forward. You'Ve got to take that into account, as you set up your cuts and bangs and have those a few things and with the motor as well. The motor will kind of get in your way, and that is nicer with the belt driven solid, as your motor is a top as a belt, so you have more brooms for work um. This is a criticism on the other craftsman Saul that, I guess, is the sister of this one. I would imagine they probably discontinuing one or the other.

I don't see them, making two Saul's that are pretty much exactly the same. What they do dust collection, everyone says, is a joke on the other saw um as far as using this dust collection bag. That'S pointless just thing, maybe costs a little bit of dust, but the dust wins all throughout myself. If I was working outside. I forget best question altogether: take this off and make sure out you're standing up when you saw just let dust fly into the air as far as using a dust collection system, I don't really have a dust collection system per se.

 I do have a $ 40 shop back that I got until I got it Rochdale and I made a little call it and simplify metal, so I've got a shot back with one and a half inch toes, and so I just made a little PVC collet like This so my hose fits into that, and this will fit into a two and a half inch for Bailey uses from a bandsaw, because it really helps with the bandsaw which is in there. It'S not a perfect fit, not great. I did notice that dust collection is. It'S fair, I don't. I don't really worry too much about best question. I worry about it. If it's distracting me from my work, but it's a workshop, I expect it'll be best places, and so this question is pretty good. So whatever I do use it inside, it is worth looking the shop back up to this and music and but this guy's pretty much pointless. I'M gon na keep it here for now, but so I don't lose it. Maybe I'll. 

Remember, maybe it's better than nothing so. Yeah there is a little dust in here, so it's better than not having it on there at all inside, but it's definitely not going to be great and I don't know any bag. That is great. The only bag that I think works moderately well is the bag that came on my biscuit joiner and a little bag that is on my orbital sander. So that's pretty much it with this song that I want to share. I can show you some cuts or stuff, but you'll see that in future videos. Overall, I'm very pleased. Oh one final complaint. 

This throat plate right here - and this is what any saw you get. It'S not a zero clearance but as I was making little test cuts little pieces, not this small or not. This big, that's wrong. This would fall in here and the Sol's unplug, especially with fall in here, and they come out easy enough, but it's just a pain. Another thing is, you do have extension arms on both sides very easy to just have a little stop block here, I'm going to build a stands in the coming weeks. That will basically render these new that's fair enough. 

This got slides fine and there is a scale on the other side. I'M gon na go ahead and lift it up. So you kind of see everything and about you getting in some way, so this is only the best bag. It'S a great saw working, but here is everything and I have a cord wrapped up right now and that's stopping it from coming. So I got the corner map, so it comes all the way back and, like I said it says you can go straight against the wall, but with the dust bag. Here it's got this little plastic thing holding out. It needs a little bit of clearance. For that me to head up, but it'll come all the way forward. Very smooth. 

I don't know I mean someone your acid capex, which would probably be able to tell me no that's not to me. That'S not good, but I think it is accepted ly smooth sliding. As far as coming down everything works, it is a little top-heavy when you get all out here so do both bolts it down. That is important these, but if you just use enough pressure and get the spring down and there you go, this is my review of the craftsman 10 inch on that sliding miter saw if you're looking for a miter saw and don't have a lot of money to Spend on one 

I'm very happy with how this is performed so far, I'm going to do an update review, they'll kind of continuously update on my website from algae song solve the forms over its lifespan. I'Ll use it to make picture frames. Do small cut-offs just to make things quick, fast, easy, and this was really the I guess, you'd say the last large power tool I needed to complete the shop for what I do. So thank you for watching thanks for tuning in, and I hope you have a great day.

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Building the Jay Bates Miter Saw Station Part 1 | Crafted Workshop

What'S going on everybody, I'm Johnny Brook welcome back to another craft magazine video in this two-part video. I'M gon na show you how I built a modified version of J Bates miter saw cabinet. It is an awesome system. Jay Bates did an amazing job with the design I'll put links to the plans in the description below and without further ado. Let'S get started. The first step in this project was breaking down the 12 sheets of plywood required for this cabinet system. I use pure Bond plywood for this, build, which is an american-made plywood made right here in North Carolina turbine, is formaldehyde, free and uses soy based, glues and the quality was top-notch. http://www.straightkerfs.com/single-vs-dual-bevel-compound-miter-saws/

I really appreciate them providing the wood for this build and will definitely continue to use their plywood in the future. If you'd like to purchase pure bond for your next project, it's available exclusively at Home Depot to break down the plywood. I use a combination of my Dewalt job side table saw circular saw and miter saw. I also converted a bar table. I had purchased from Ikea into an outfeed table, for my table saw, and this was absolutely essential for breaking down these sheets of plywood safely and efficiently. I numbered every piece I cut along the way, so when it came time to assemble, all I had to do was sort through the pile of cut pieces and lay them out for assembly. I started by assembling the base cabinets. 

All the cabinets in this build are assembled using pocket holes. I used the new fastcap self-centering pocket hole screws, and these worked extremely well. The rubber washers on the screws really helped to keep the screws in place. I also can't recommend enough. The Craig right angle clamp. These were super helpful, as you might have noticed. I assembled the base cabinets incorrectly in the beginning, with a few of the bores oriented in the wrong direction. I had to go back and fix that a little later so pay no attention to my incorrect assembly here and follow Jays plans. 

This was also my first project using the fast cap glue bot, and I just can't believe I didn't purchase this sooner. It makes applying glue much easier after I finished the base cabinet carcasses. It was time to clear out the space for the new miter saw station. I'Ve been using the fast cap, best fence pro 3 system for the past few months and absolutely love it.

 I just don't need the portability as 99 % of the time, I'm working in my shop, not on a job site I'll, be letting my father-in-law borrow the pro 3 system for the time being, as he does a lot more work where he needs mobility like he Builds a lot of decks and porches, and that kind of thing I also needed to remove the pegboard on the wall. This was already installed when we bought the house, so I didn't really know what to expect when I removed it, but I was happy to find a very clean installation and I'll be putting this pegboard back up behind my workbench in another part of my shop. Next, 

I cut the pieces which support the base cabinets on the miter saw needs attached using glue and screws through the sides of the carcasses to install the leveling feet into these pieces. You just drill a hole for your T, nut and then thread in a carriage bolt. J'S plans recommend using galvanized carriage bolts, but I had a hell of a time its threading, the galvanized bolts into the T, nuts. The coating on those carriage bolts just make it a nightmare to try to thread them in so I ended up switching to stainless bolts and they worked flawlessly after installing the feet. I started building the drawers for the bottom cabinets. My modified version of this plan has 18 drawers in total, so this was very time-consuming process. 

The drawers are assembled using pocket holes and glue for the frames and screws and glue for the bottoms. I installed drawer hardware along the way I used blooms standard drawer, slides on this bill. That'S model number 430 II. These are the 24 inch drawer slide and they have over an inch of over extension. So you can access the back section of the drawers with no problem. They also have a hundred pound weight limit and are extremely smooth they're a bit tricky to install since their bottom mounted, but once I got it down, it was a fairly simple process.

 You definitely want to go ahead and install your drawer, slides on the bottom cabinets before adding the work surface. Drawer slides are much easier to install when you can move cabinets around and have full access to the inside of cabinet. I just continued building drawers working off of my plans, all along the way and eventually finished up the drawers for the bottom cabinets, and so I think this is where I'm gon na leave you for part. 

One part two will be published a week from today on Monday May 9th stay tuned and make sure to subscribe in the meantime, if you enjoyed this video, please consider becoming a patron of ours on our patreon page. Your support helps keep these projects going thanks and until next time happy building guys

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Box Joint Jig for Miter Saw!

I made these box showings using my miter saw and this homemade jig. Let me show you how I made it first I'll start by disassembling it, so you can see how it goes together. If you search around on YouTube, you'll find many other designs for box joint jigs. Most of them are done either on a table saw or with a router. I haven't seen anyone cut box joints on a miter saw before so I thought I'd give it a shot, since I don't have a table saw in my little shop, but I wanted to make box joints. I incorporated some of the best features from other designs. 

I saw including the use of the threaded rod and gears to drive the jig. The platform of the jig is just made from 3/4 inch plywood and its size to fit around. My miter saw and the dust collection middle and on top there are two rails that the platform slides left it right on. The platform is the most important part of the jig on the bottom. There are four plywood triangles and two aluminum: u channels that ride! On the two wooden rails on the platform, there's also a threaded rod and two T nuts capturing it to the base and a threaded rod is used to advance the platform left and right and it's captured on either end by these two end plates that have plastic Bushings in them to capture the threaded rod to keep the platform from tipping like this and make it more secure, there's this board that goes underneath and captures the platform to the base. Now, inside this platform there are two nuts buried in here, and that's so that I can use this knob and piece of scrap wood to act as a clamp to hold down work.

 Pieces just gives me another space to plant. This piece of wood here acts as a fence, and it is parallel to the blade to help keep pieces, nice and straight now. This platform is that this weird angle, for a reason and I'll, show you why, in just a little bit, this platform is moved, left and right by turning the threaded rod and turn that threaded rod a little bit faster. I'M using this for 1 gear ratio. Since there's 16 threads per inch on this threaded rod by turning this big year, one revolution I'm turning the threaded rod four revolutions, and that means I can get consistent quarter inch box tones really easily with this setup, these three pieces. 

On top, I added for dust collection to the dust get directed towards the dust head and there's also an adjustment mechanism built into this one and I'll show you how I use that to adjust the depth of cut a little bit later in the video. The last part that goes on here is this piece on this side, and this provides a one down to keep the jig fastened to the miter saw. There is a nut embedded in the platform here, and that accepts one of these not and on the other side, there is the same exact thing: the problem with cutting box joints on a miter saw is you can't pass the wood all the way through the saw ( https://sawwiz.com/best-miter-saw-reviews/ )Blade, like you can on a table, saw by passing the wood all the way through the blade you get a nice straight cut at the end of the box. Joint since I miter saw, is limited in its travel. You can only go about 90 degrees before being stopped. 

This leaves a curve in the piece that you are cutting, because you can't pass the blade all the way through by raising the workpiece up to an angle, so that it's in line with the center of the blade we can minimize that curve that gets put into The workpiece from the diameter of the blade - and this is the reason that the platform on the jig is sitting at that angle. Cutting box joints on thick stock, like this 2x4, will of course, still result in a curved cut, but it can be centered in the piece and be pretty much unnoticeable once it's glued up. This adjustment mechanism is what helps me get the curve of the cut centered in the workpiece to minimize its effects once gluing up first start by raising this adjustment mechanism up way higher than it needs to be.

 And then, if you look at this workpiece, I've got two lines this this line right here is how far deep I want to make the cuts for this box joint on this 2x4. This first line is just for setting up the J. I don't want to cut all the way down to this line first, because I want to have some area for adjustment, so I'll just cut a little bit into it and I'll cut a little bit more until I have it set up, then I'll do the full Cut set up the first cut, I'm going to bring down the saw blade to that first line until the two teeth, the top tooth in the bottom tooth, just touch that line and I'll nudge down the adjustment bracket.

 If it's too high until I get those teeth, spaced just perfectly or as close as I can get on that line, so I'd say right about there. We'Ve got the top tooth just making the line the bottom tooth just making the line in the middle tooth is extending past the line, but that's okay, so I'll stop it right there and I will tighten down the adjustment mechanism at that location and we'll make our First cut to see if I've got that cut centered on the workpiece I'll, take two measurements: one on either end of the curve and measure the depth so 0.75, five and on the bottom here, 0.72 two. So that means we need to cut a little bit less. On the top and a little bit more on the bottom, and so we'll nudge that adjustment mechanism down just a hair and that's what this threaded rod, it helps do by just unscrewing it one turn. 

I can make fine adjustments to knock that down and I'll take another cut and another measurement, so I cut just a little bit deeper on the same path and I'll. Take two measurements here. Point nine one, three point: eight, nine five. So, by moving that adjustment mechanism down one turn last time I cut about half of the difference between these two measurements. So I think if we do one more turn on that that will even up this curve just right so I'll knock that down one more turn and then we'll cut all the box joints on this piece once I'm ready to cut the full depth here,

 I'll back Up the jig or the platform and set the blade to cut the full depth adjusting the size of the box joints is relatively simple. With this gear setup, I personally like the quarter-inch box joints, so this four to one ratio works the best, but you can make any sized box joint. You want, by keeping track of the revolution, to turn between each cut or by using different sized gears for a really good reference of a screw advanced box. Xuanjing I'll put a link in the description to Matthias Wandel video on his screw advanced box, Gen jig, where he does a nice job explaining how to cut box joints with different sized gears. I took a lot of ideas for this jig from his design, but just applied it to my own application. 

You can see how the curve shows up on the joint here, but it's really not a big deal, because since we got the depth of that curve to be centered in the piece. This point here on this point here are the same distance down, and so we still get a pretty square corner right out of the jig and the gap is tight on the inside and it's tight on the outside. And that's because we got the depth of that cut centered on the workpiece, cutting a really thin box joints like on this quarter-inch piece of oak. You don't even really need to worry about the curve of the cut, because it's so thin that the curve will hardly even show up for those. I just lower the adjustment mechanism all the way down and make the box joints and they fit just fine 

I'll, even cut this three-eighths material stacked. Two at a time on this box range egg, without worrying about the curve of the cut. This is about as thick as that you can go before you start running into issues with the curves. You can still see a little bit of offset curve on this piece. It'S not quite centered, but it's not that big a deal on this thin of a piece. When you put the box joint together, you have to manually, make it square, but you can get the joints tight on the outside of both pieces and you're left with a little bit of a gap on the inside to cut two pieces at a time. I'Ll set up the Best Miter Saw and then I'll clamp one piece in use: a quarter inch drill bit as a spacer and then put the second piece right on top. 

Then I'll just clamp it all down with clamps from the side and using the clamp from the top, and that way I can do two pieces at once and I'll get the fingers staggered just right so that I can make a corner out of one pass. There are a lot of disadvantages to this. Jig compared to a table, saw jig this one's a bit cumbersome to set up and pretty slow, because it has a small capacity. It can also be a bit awkward working on that slow platform and getting parts clamped to it. But the point of making this jig and the video is to show you that what you have in front of you is probably all you need working with. 

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Bosch GCM 8 SJL Professional Mitre Saw

This is the Bosch GCM 8 sjl miter saw it features, precision, capacity, portability and a highly visible cut, and the two-point dust extraction allows from us safer and cleaner working with a modern trend towards wider laminate and solid flooring. Cost up capacity becomes a key feature from the DCMA sjl. The maximum width of cut is impressive, 312 millimeters, and it will cope equally well with material up to 70. Millimeters, safe carpenters and joiners will find dozens of applications for this miter saw easy to use. Miter controls allow you to cut angles up to 52 degrees, to the left and 60 degrees to the right and they're all clearly marked on an adjustable stainless steel scale. 

This is simple and it slides very easily offenses are both drilled. If you want to fit your own sacrificial or zero-clearance wooden fences, they are integrated, pull-out extension tables to increase the cutting support for longer work pieces. The saw is very easy to operate. Large switch on the handle releases, a guard which then flips back out of the way as you lower the sliding compound miter saw reviews head. This guard is completely clear, so you have excellent visibility. The vertical handle and switch positioning make this machine easy to use either right or left-handed. Just extraction is particularly well catered for on the GC m8, with a two position: shoot that maximizes collection efficiency, even when the saw head is pulled well out. 

One collection point always moves with a blade that will collect dust even on extended cook. Machine is available in either 240 410 volt options both having a powerful 1600 watt motor. It also has a very efficient break, so the blade comes to hold quickly. The blade is a two hundred and sixteen millimeter diameter 48 tooth with negative rage, sake, cuts incredibly smoothly and quietly and leaves a super fine finish blade. Changing is quick and easy. Thanks to the break accessible, spindle, lock and the necessary hexagon key is stored on board. The saw to maximize cutting precision a laser is integrated into the upper guard and this projects a sharp line across the full width rotating to indicate the sword, cut a simple tenoning. 

Stop that controls the depth of cut can be engaged for joint or trench cutting. There'S a comfortable carrying handle on the top for easy portability and the saw will set on any convenient bench. However, if you team it with the GTA to 6000, folding stand the whole set, it becomes a dedicated sawing station. The stand has pullout extensions, either side to support very long work pieces, and it also incorporates length stops for repeat cutting.