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Dog Humping

“My dog loves to hump other dogs, people’s legs…just about anything. How can I get him to stop this?” 

There are lots of different apparent reasons for this behavior, which is certainly normal among dogs. It does seem to be sexual, especially in young dogs who haven’t been neutered or spayed. (Yes, female dogs hump, too!) However, I also often see mounting behavior as a natural part of playtime among dogs of all ages, whether or not they’ve been “fixed.” Dogs might hump when they get excited when interacting with other dogs or people, and they also might do this if they get anxious about a particular situation (say, meeting another dog for the first time or becoming a bit overwhelmed by the sheer number of dogs in a park). Some might hump their beds for a bit before settling down to rest, which is also very normal. Another possible reason: The dog simply never learned that humping is inappropriate behavior and, over time, it became a bad habit. So what to do if you want to stop the humping, at least in certain situations? First, talk to your vet about the behavior to make sure the mounting isn’t due to a medical issue, such as a urinary tract infection or priapism (persistent erections that may be painful). Neutering and spaying may help reduce the behavior as well, though you shouldn’t rely on this alone to solve this issue. Next, start trying to determine when your dog usually humps, so you can preempt the behavior. So say your dog loves to hump every visitor who walks through your door. Remember that exercise greatly helps reduce unwanted behaviors, so make sure your dog plays fetch or at least goes for a long walk before the visit. Then, once the guest arrives, ask your dog to come to you and sit before the humping occurs, and reward accordingly with a treat or a little playtime. Do this every time, and your dog might not become as anxious or excited because he’ll learn the ritual to expect when a new person enters your home. What if your dog loves to hump a certain pillow on the couch? When you see him jump up next to it, immediately call him to you and provide him with an alternative behavior by asking him to sit. Again, reward him. Do the same thing when your dog starts circling and sniffing another dog and seems like he might mount him. Also, be extra careful: while mounting isn’t an aggressive behavior, it might be construed as such by other dogs. As Dr. Herron explains, “Mounting directed at an unfamiliar dog can become problematic if the receiver finds the action threatening.” Intervening ahead of time is key with humping since it’s a very natural behavior that becomes more solidified the more often it happens. You need to nip this one in the bud as soon as possible. As long as you are consistent with intercepting the behavior and redirecting it to a more acceptable one, you should be just fine!

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Dog Exercise :  Swimming,  Hiking...

Age-appropriate exercise is one of the principles of my training program. It’s important for dogs in so many ways—it reduces unwanted behaviors such as digging and chewing, helps them sleep better at night, keeps their weight in check, and increases mobility as they get older. However, each dog can handle a different amount of exercise, so talk to your vet about what’s ideal for yours.

If your dog has a lot of energy, you’ll almost certainly want to schedule at least twenty minutes to an hour of exercise daily. So what kind of exercise? The critical thing is that the form of exercise you choose should involve you. It turns out that exercising together is an indicator that you’ll get the physical activity you need. A study in the American Journal of Public Health found that people who have dogs have as much as 77 percent higher odds of getting enough physical activity as compared with those who don’t have dogs.5 Of course, fetch is an excellent option, which I explain how to teach on this page, chapter 4. A lot of people also like running with their dogs. Always start slowly; don’t try to accomplish a 5K right off the bat. Instead, gradually add distance and increase speed to make sure your dog can handle it. Bring along extra water to help your dog stay hydrated, and, if it’s particularly hot or cold out, make accommodations to protect him from the elements. If your dog can tolerate longer distances and it seems you’re holding him back from running faster, you can also ride your bike and have him run alongside you. (Discretion is certainly advised here. You’ll need to pay attention to your dog, the road, traffic, and any potential distractions. Ideally, practice this in very low-traffic areas such as dead-end streets, and hold the leash but never tie it to your bike.) Again, double-check with your vet when you can start running with your dog—some experts advise that you wait until the dog is full-grown. Of course, if running isn’t your thing, there are plenty of other activities, many of which I explain in this chapter.

Swim Lessons

“We have a pool in our backyard, and I’m afraid my dog is going to fall in. Will he know how to swim, or do I have to teach him?”

Most dogs instinctively know how to swim; however, this is one area where breed stereotypes (which normally drive me crazy!) ring true for the most part. Some dogs instantly love water and jump right in; others can swim but need a little coaching and possibly encouragement. Some breeds should probably avoid the water altogether—for instance, dogs with heavy chests compared to their hind legs, such as Bulldogs, can sink right to the bottom. Brachycephalic breeds—those with pushed-in faces, such as Pugs, Bulldogs, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, and Boston Terriers—also usually have trouble swimming. Keep in mind that while some small breeds can swim, they’ll tire pretty quickly. The same goes for puppies. Regardless of the type of dog you have and whether or not he’s a natural Michael Phelps, it’s important to remember that any dog can drown in a pool. That’s why it’s crucial to take safety precautions, such as installing a pool fence or a motion detector system. Don’t get me wrong—swimming is an excellent, low-impact way to exercise your dog, and I encourage it for most dogs. Here’s what to do to ensure safe, happy swimming:

Consider getting a life vest for your dog for extra protection, at least until you’re comfortable that your dog knows how to swim and get out of the pool. Also, if your dog can’t swim, a vest can allow him to enjoy pool time with his family.

 Never just toss your dog into the pool to see what happens. That’ll likely terrify him and create a negative association with the pool (let alone the fact that it can be dangerous). Your goal should be making the experience as positive as possible. Get into the pool yourself and let your pet run around the perimeter. Entice him closer to the pool by offering treats or toys.

If at any point you think your dog is overly anxious, take a break. However, if you think he’s doing fine, then let him stand briefly on the first step in the pool and see how he does. If he jumps out, that’s okay. Try again in a few minutes. If he does great, then reward him and gradually increase the time he spends in the pool. For instance, let him swim a few laps, but always stand right next to him to offer to support the second he needs it. You want him to always feel safe. 

At first, you’ll have to help your dog get out of the pool by either guiding him to the steps or lifting him out if need be. However, it’s important to make sure he learns to do it on his own. So after your dog is comfortable swimming and coming to you while in the water, you should be able to guide him to the pool steps by calling to him just like you do on land. Repeat this often to make sure he understands where the steps are located. 

Once your dog is done swimming for the day, rinse him off with regular water to wash out any chlorine left on his coat.

Hiking

“Hiking is a big part of my lifestyle. Is it okay to take my dog with me on hikes?”

Absolutely. Hiking is one of the best forms of exercise your dog can do—it stimulates him physically, of course, but with the myriad of sights, smells, and sounds, he’ll be mentally engaged as well. That’s why most dogs love this activity. However, make sure you take the following safety precautions:

Bring plenty of water for your dog and a small bowl. Don’t let your dog drink from any puddles, lakes, ponds, or other bodies of water— they could contain parasites and other contaminants. Also, if you’re hiking long enough that you need to bring snacks for yourself, bring along some food or treats for your dog as well. You may even want to feed him half his daily meal beforehand and then give him the rest halfway through the hike.

Let your dog off-leash only if you are very certain he’ll come when called regardless of any distractions (trust me, there will be plenty of those!). Also, double-check that the area you’re hiking in permits dogs to wander off-leash. Of course, keeping your dog on a leash can help you navigate him away from any dangers such as poison ivy, broken glass, or other animals you might encounter. 

Sure you’re in nature, but you still need to always pick up after your dog. Your fellow hikers will appreciate it! Bring poop bags. 

As always, make sure your dog is up to date with his vaccinations, microchipped, and wearing identification tags. 

Bring along a first aid kit in case your dog gets any bites, scrapes, or other injuries during the hike. (You should have one for yourself, anyway!)

After your hike, check your dog for fleas and ticks, as well as any critters, burrs, or other “extras” he might have brought back from his adventure.

Dog Parks

“There’s a dog park near my house that I was thinking of going to this weekend. Is it worth my time?”

Dog parks are a big wild card. While I’m happy they’re available to dogs who do well in this setting, the cons to going to one can outweigh the pros for many dogs. The problem is that you often get a lot of dogs with too much energy in one place. Add to that the fact that many dogs are not immediately accepting of new dogs, and before you know it you’ve got scuffles breaking out left and right. Also, too many people rely on dog parks for exercising and socializing their dogs. This is where most people go wrong. Your dog’s primary exercise should be done with you, not with other dogs that he doesn’t know. However, if you want to give the dog park experience a shot, first make sure that your dog is good with other dogs by introducing him to several other dogs in non–dog park situations. If this goes well, consider going to the dog park in off-peak hours. I don’t like to see groups of more than three or four dogs playing at a time unless the dogs regularly play together and always get along. Also, I strongly advise exercising your dog before going to the dog park so he’ll be a little more subdued and relaxed. In my experience, lack of exercise is the most significant contributor to most fights between dogs. Monitor your dog closely, and if you notice him or other dogs getting too rambunctious, break up the play session.

Service Dogs

“Recently in a restaurant I saw a woman with a dog wearing a service vest. What is that, and is it something I should get for my dog so he can come into restaurants with me, too?”

Not, unless you need a service dog. According to the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA), service animals are dogs trained to perform tasks for people with disabilities, such as “guiding people who are blind, alerting people who are deaf, pulling a wheelchair, alerting and protecting a person who is having a seizure, reminding a person with mental illness to take prescribed medications, calming a person with post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) during an anxiety attack, or performing other duties.”6 The organization considers these dogs working animals, not pets. A person with one of these dogs can enter places the general public can go, even places where dogs are not normally allowed, such as restaurants, movie theaters, and hospitals. The problem is, it’s very difficult to regulate which dogs are true service dogs and which ones aren’t. The ADA stipulates that staff at, say, a restaurant, store, or doctor’s office can only ask if the dog is a service animal required because of a disability and, if so, the nature of the animal’s particular task or work. Many companies have sadly capitalized on such loose regulations—they’ll send a certification and “service” vest over the Internet to just about anybody, usually for a considerable fee. You may be wondering, “What’s the harm in faking it so that my dog can accompany me anywhere?” Unfortunately, it hurts those who do need such dogs. Legitimate service dogs are highly and specifically trained and have a certain temperament that makes them ideal for the job; however, many fake service dogs are not well trained and may behave badly. They might start barking in a restaurant or jumping on people, giving service dogs, in general, a bad rap. “Every time illegitimate service dogs behave badly, the public is more likely to discriminate against legitimate service dogs,” says Paul Mundell, CEO of Canine Companions for Independence. “When a person with a disability relies on a highly trained assistance dog, being denied the right to access public places with their dog will ultimately limit that person’s ability to lead an independent life.” Bottom line: If you truly qualify for a service dog, by all means, look into getting one. Otherwise, don’t take advantage of a service that’s meant for people who require it.

Extracurricular Activities

“My dog is a bundle of energy, and I’d love to do some activities with him outside of basic training. Any suggestions?”

Basic training and tricks can certainly satisfy a lot of dogs, but then there are those with so much energy that they constantly seem to be saying, “I’m not tired yet. Let’s do more!” Luckily, today there are many recreational options for dogs that can fulfill any need, ranging from herding and tracking to dog surfing and sled dog racing. For instance, I began my dog training career by competing and performing in Frisbee competitions, a really fun dog sport that requires a lot of creativity and originality. My high-energy dogs loved every minute of it. There are many opportunities out there, and you can find the right one for your dog no matter what his energy level is (yes, even if he’s a couch potato!). Do a little research online or ask your veterinarian, local dog clubs, shelters, or other friends with dogs for options. There are no single governing bodies for most dog sports; search for dedicated organizations and clubs in your area to learn more about what each activity has to offer. And be wary: when choosing one, unfortunately, you may encounter those who subscribe to outdated training styles. If these groups ever pressure you to use pain or discomfort to train your dog, keep searching. The advice in this book will get you much further when participating in the dog sports out there. Trust me, I’ve competed at the highest levels of dog Frisbee and done lots of exhibition agility, flyball, and other activities with my dogs over the years. Fun is key to dog sports! The following is a quick overview of some of the more popular activities you may want to consider. Check them out—you’ll be amazed by some of the things dogs can do!

AGILITY

In this sport, people direct their dogs through an obstacle course that can include maneuvers such as jumping hurdles, climbing up ramps, going through tunnels, and weaving in and out of poles. Teams are scored based on time and accuracy.

FLYBALL

Teams of four dogs compete against each other in this relay race. The dogs jump hurdles over a fifty-one-foot course, retrieve a ball from a spring-loaded box that they hit, and then return over the jumps.

FLYING DISC COMPETITION

This one is near and dear to my heart! In this activity, commonly referred to as dog Frisbee, a person throws a flying disc at various distances and/or in a choreographed sequence, ending up with the disc being caught by their dog. It can involve a lot of tricks, too—I loved to incorporate “back stall” and even “play dead” in some of the competitions I did with Venus. If you are active and creative and have a high-energy dog, you may want to get involved.

FREESTYLE

So you think you can dance? Or you think maybe your dog can? Consider this type of competition, in which a person and their dog perform choreographed routines set to music.

DOCK DIVING

This relatively new sport, also known as dock jumping, is becoming increasingly popular. Dogs jump off a dock into the water and compete for distance and height. Of course, your dog will have to be a very proficient swimmer to participate in this event.

THERAPY DOGS

Whether or not your dog is the active type, if he’s well behaved and friendly to strangers, he may be perfect for what’s known as animal-assisted therapy (not to be confused with service dogs). Dogs are trained to offer affection and comfort to people in hospitals, nursing homes, areas that have been affected by a disaster, and schools, or to people with learning disabilities, for example. Research has shown that interacting with an animal can not only lift one’s spirits and help reduce anxiety but also lower blood pressure, improve cardiovascular health, and have positive effects on a person’s mental and physical well-being in countless other ways.

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TRAVELING WITH YOUR DOG

Why leave your dog at home when you can take him with you? From car rides to air travel, here’s how to keep your pet safe and happy when you’re on the go. 

Car Rides

I’ve driven all over the United States with my dogs, and they have come to accept the car as an extension of our house. All of my dogs always hop into the car and relax immediately. However, it’s important to take steps to make sure your dog is comfortable during car rides:

As always, safety first. Never let your dog sit in the passenger seat—if the airbag goes off, it can kill him. Instead, use a crate in the back of the car, which is the safest way to transport your pet. Just make sure you’ve introduced the crate properly and that your dog is comfortable with it before you head out on a long car trip. Another option: a special doggy booster seat or harness that attaches to the seat belt in the back of the car. You can find these at pet supply stores and through online retailers.

  Just like humans, dogs can get carsick—especially puppies or young dogs, because their inner ears haven’t fully developed yet. Also, adult dogs who haven’t traveled much in a car might get nauseous because of motion sickness or anxiety about the ride. Take precautions such as not feeding your dog a big meal right before getting in the car and making sure you bring towels or an old blanket so that if he does get sick, cleanup will be a lot easier. 

Your dog is more likely to relax during a three-hour car ride if he’s already been acclimated to the car for ten to twenty minutes at a time. Gradually increase the time so that he’ll more easily adjust to a long car ride. Also, if you take him in the car only when he’s going to the vet or the groomer, he may have a negative association with it. The more experiences your dog has with going to a happy place, like the park or a pet supply store, the more eagerly he’ll get in the car.

During your road trip, plan on stopping at least every three to four hours (more often if your dog is young or very small). Let your dog play some fetch or take an extended walk. You need to stretch your legs and use the bathroom—and so does your dog.

Never leave your dog unattended in a car. Because temperatures in a closed car can quickly soar in warm months and can plummet in cold ones, many dogs have died when left even for just a few minutes. Also, I wouldn’t risk it—lots of dogs are snatched when left unattended.

As tempting as it is, don’t let your dog stick his entire head out the window while you’re driving. He can get hit with foreign objects, flying debris, and dust particles. Also, his ears can suffer damage from flopping in the wind, his eyes can suffer abrasions, or he could fall out of the car altogether. Instead, crack the window open a bit so he can enjoy all the fascinating and different smells during the journey. Hey, for them that’s half the fun! 

Air Travel

  Small dogs are allowed to fly in the cabin on many commercial airlines if they can fit in a travel case and under the seat in front of you. However, if you’re planning a trip, make sure you call ahead of time—most flights can accommodate only a limited number of pets, and some airlines won’t allow animals when going to certain destinations. You may have to pay an extra fee, which can be around $100 or more (twice that, if you’re flying roundtrip). Confirm the dimensions of the pet carrier the airplane can accommodate, and know that your pet and the carrier often count as your carry-on. Also, check what kind of paperwork you have to bring. For instance, some airlines require proof of recent vaccinations or a health certificate. Lastly, keep in mind that some dogs are less suitable for flying than others, especially ones who are older or brachycephalic (dogs with pushed-in faces such as Pugs). Talk to your vet about whether or not your dog can handle flying. Other things you can do to help the trip go smoothly:

Exercise your dog before the flight to make sure he’s tired so that he may sleep during the flight or at least not have so much nervous energy. Also, make sure he relieves himself before you get on board.

You should carry or walk your pet through security while the carrier goes through the X-ray machine. However, at any other time, you will have to keep your dog in the carrier.

Once onboard, give your dog a favorite toy that will keep him occupied during the flight. Talk to him in a calm voice and let him know he’s safe. If he starts to cry, he may be anxious, so sneak him a treat or two to communicate that you’re there for him and that this isn’t so bad. Just never open the carrier enough that he can get out!

Bring a leash and a bowl so you can give your dog some water and take him for a well-deserved walk the second you’re able.

While a small dog can usually travel on board with you, larger dogs cannot. So if you have, say, a forty-pound dog and want to fly with him, you’ll have to either check him as baggage on your flight (on which he’ll fly in the cargo hold) or have him fly as cargo on a separate flight, depending on the airline. Are these options safe? To be honest, they may not be. Major organizations such as the Humane Society of the United States strongly recommend that people avoid taking their dogs on planes, particularly if that means the dog has to travel in the cargo hold. Also, according to the United States Department of Transportation, each year many animals who travel in cargo die; others are injured or lost. However, I understand that sometimes you have no choice. I once flew with Venus to appear on Late Night with David Letterman years ago. She is about thirty-five pounds, so I couldn’t bring her on board, driving would have taken too much time since it was last minute, and I obviously couldn’t leave her home! This was very early on in my career, and to be honest it stressed me out. Fortunately, Venus was fine; however, ever since then I have insisted on driving my dogs everywhere. Once I even drove with Venus from Atlanta to Los Angeles to do a five-minute appearance for the Television Critics Association. A few weeks later, I drove round-trip from Atlanta to New York twice in two weeks to appear on The Rachael Ray Show and Late Night with Jimmy Fallon to avoid flying. If you have to fly with your dog and check him as baggage or have him fly alone as cargo, definitely contact the airlines to learn of any restrictions. For instance, the federal Animal Welfare Act enforced by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) won’t allow pets to fly unless they are at least eight weeks old and weaned. The animals also must be protected from direct sunlight, and they must not be exposed to temperatures above 85°F and below 45°F for more than forty-five minutes when being moved to and from the airplane to the terminal (though, in the case of the latter, a vet could sign a certificate stating that the dog is acclimated to cold climates). Also, talk to your vet to make sure your dog’s fit for traveling— some airlines don’t allow brachycephalic breeds to fly in the cargo hold at all. Most airlines have a special department or call center that will thoroughly brief you on what to expect, so contact them as well. Here’s what else you can do to help make your dog’s experience as pleasant as possible: 

Find a secure, well-constructed pet transport kennel to transport your dog. According to the USDA, no particular kennels have been preapproved by the airlines, the airline associations, or the USDA themselves, so any such claims are false advertising. Instead, find a well-constructed, secure kennel and get your dog accustomed to it well before he’s scheduled to fly.

Book direct nonstop flights only. Avoid very busy travel days and peak hours. The less chaos and fewer changes, the safer and less hectic it will be for your dog. 

Make sure your dog is microchipped and that all of his identification tags are secure. The kennel he’s traveling in should also have all of your contact information. 

The International Air Transport Association recommends avoiding the use of tranquilizers or other forms of sedation to calm a dog during a flight. If you think your dog needs this, talk to your vet.

Pet-Friendly Accommodations

When you travel with your pet, you may need to find overnight accommodations that will accept him. Luckily, it’s not that difficult—so many hotels and motels are pet-friendly nowadays. Many popular hotel chains accommodate pets. Also, websites such as www. brin gfido. com can help you find dog-friendly hotels in your area. However, if you’re considering a particular hotel, call ahead of time to find out about any restrictions. Some hotels allow only dogs up to a certain size or require that you stay on the lowest floor. Many charge a pet fee. Ask about perks, too— some hotels offer treats, special bedding, bowls, and even pet-sitting or pet walking services for their furry guests. Another option: Consider renting. Through sites such as www. vrbo. com, www. homeaway. com, and www. Airbnb. com, you can rent anything from a tiny studio apartment to a multimillion-dollar estate. Some places require that you stay for a week or longer, but many allow you to rent for just a night or two. Rates run the gamut, but you can likely find a place that fits your budget. A little secret: A lot of rentals say they won’t allow pets, but if you fall in love with a particular place it’s worth a call; many owners will make exceptions, especially if you have a small, well-behaved dog.

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Dog care : PARASITES , Poisoning & Weather ...

From fleas and ticks to worms and Giardia, all dogs are susceptible to various parasites throughout their lifetime. Here’s an overview. 

External Parasites: Fleas and Ticks

The notorious enemy of all dogs, fleas have long caused serious problems for both animals and humans alike. (They are responsible for the plague!) Fleas are wingless insects that jump from host to host and feed on them. They can cause problems for dogs such as anemia, tapeworm (when a flea carrying tapeworm eggs is ingested), and allergic reactions. If your dog gets fleas—some signs including excessive scratching or biting of the skin, hair loss, hot spots, and flea dirt, which looks like specks of dirt but is flea droppings—first call your vet to determine an immediate treatment plan for your dog. Treatment might include a special shampoo or topical liquid that will kill the fleas and their eggs. Then contact a local exterminator to discuss options for banishing the pests from your yard; these experts can also tell you other ways to eliminate the fleas from your home, based on how bad the infestation is. For instance, the first steps could be washing all bedding in hot water and vacuuming every carpet and then disposing of the vacuum bag. Ticks, on the other hand, are arachnids. Like fleas, they will suck the blood out of their host, which can lead to anemia; they also transmit very dangerous illnesses such as Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever and Ehrlichia. If you notice a tick on your dog, put on a pair of disposable gloves, wipe the area with rubbing alcohol and carefully remove the tick with a pair of tweezers. Make sure you pull the tick straight out (don’t twist it!) and check that you don’t leave any part of the critter behind. You should preserve the tick in a closed container with rubbing alcohol so if your dog does fall ill in the coming weeks, your vet can know which type of tick was the culprit. Wash the site where the tick was on your dog thoroughly and call your vet to discuss a further course of action. For both fleas and ticks, yearly prevention is your best bet—there are topical medications and oral pills, many of which are a two-for-one combo that prevents both parasites. Also, keep your dog’s bedding and living area clean and check here regularly for fleas and ticks, especially if you live in a humid or woody area.

Internal Parasites: Worms, Giardia, and Coccidia

  Unfortunately, in addition to being susceptible to external parasites, all dogs are also susceptible to internal parasites that can lead to a whole slew of health problems. The key is to work closely with your doctor to prevent these parasites if possible or treat them as soon as you notice any symptoms.

Here’s a breakdown: 

HEARTWORM

These are parasitic roundworms that live in the arteries and heart of an animal; they can grow as long as twelve inches and live up to seven years. The worm spreads from animal to animal via mosquito bites and can include symptoms such as weight loss, coughing, and difficulty breathing; it can eventually lead to heart failure, lung disease, even death. While heartworms are most prevalent in areas prone to mosquitos—such as along the Gulf of Mexico, the Atlantic Ocean coastline, and along the Mississippi River—it has been reported in all fifty states. According to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), there are two drugs approved to treat heartworm disease; however, both are very costly and can be toxic for dogs. Instead, year-round prevention is the best medicine. The FDA has approved several products for safe, effective prevention of heartworm disease: such products are available as a topical liquid, oral tablets, or an injectable. Talk to your vet about which type is best for your dog.

OTHER WORMS

Roundworms, tapeworms, hookworms, and whipworms all live in the intestines of dogs, and they can cause serious issues ranging from weight loss and diarrhea to life-threatening anemia and lethargy. Roundworms and hookworms are also zoonotic, which means that they can be transmitted from an animal to a human. Notify your vet if your dog has diarrhea, a change in her appetite or coat, or excessive coughing. You may also notice the worms in your dog’s stool or under her tail. While the deworming that your dog probably got as a puppy will get her off to a good start, it’s still important to take further steps to protect your dog. For instance, tapeworms are passed to dogs from infected fleas, so a flea prevention regimen is key. The medicine you give your dog for heartworm prevention will likely also protect against most worms. What about protecting you and the other people in your family? Good hygiene, such as washing your hands as needed, will help ensure that if your dog ever does have worms, she won’t pass them on to you. 

GIARDIA AND COCCIDIA

When swallowed, these highly contagious, zoonotic, single-celled parasites can damage your dog’s intestinal lining and limit the number of nutrients she gets from food; they can also cause diarrhea. Fortunately, when detected, they can be eliminated with medication. 

Helping the Medicine Go Down

“My dog hates taking medicine. Any tips on how to get her to take a pill?”

Just like humans, some dogs take pills and other forms of medicine without a fight. Others seem to have a lot of difficulty with it. While there’s not a surefire “spoonful of sugar” technique that will work across the board, there are some tricks that can help. First, ask your vet if she has a chewable version of the medication. If not, hide the pill in a bit of wet dog food or inside a piece of soft meat, peanut butter, or cheese. You can also try using a special treat designed specifically to hide pills. However, plenty of clever dogs will catch on pretty quickly—they may somehow eat all their food and purposely avoid the pill, or they’ll chew up the treat and spit the pill back out. If that’s the case, gently open your dog’s mouth, put the pill at the base of her tongue, close her mouth and tilt it back until she swallows. If you think your dog might bite you, ask your vet for alternatives.

Poisoning

“My dogs just got into my trash and ate the remainder of the chocolate cake we threw out. I’ve heard chocolate is toxic for dogs. What should I do?”

Call your nearest poison control center or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control (888-426-4435), and get to your vet right away. I know some people might want to take a wait-and-see approach, but even a small amount of chocolate can be toxic to a dog, and it’s difficult for medical experts to determine how your dog is doing over the phone. The same goes for other toxins, ranging from raisins and houseplants to prescription meds and common household cleaners.  Getting your dog help immediately can also mean a better prognosis for her. Do not try to self-treat your dog or induce vomiting unless your vet or poison expert specifically tells you do to so. However, when you do get to the vet, it can be helpful if you can bring a sample and/or packaging of whatever item your dog ingested. 

Hot Weather

“I live in a state where it’s hot and humid all summer long. How do I help my dog handle the heat?”

I understand this question—I live in New Orleans, where the summer weather can be downright sweltering and stifling. Just as you take measures to protect yourself from the elements, it’s important to do the same for your dog. Here’s what to do:

Make sure your dog has an unlimited supply of water and, if she has to spend any time outside, plenty of shade.

 Your dog’s exercise needs don’t suddenly dwindle during hot spells. However, you’ll probably need to make modifications. For instance, play fetch or go for long walks first thing in the morning or at dusk when temperatures maybe a little cooler. Also, if your dog is, say, used to going for a five-mile run with you in the morning, you might want to scale back on that a bit until you’re sure she’s accustomed to the weather. Of course, always bring lots of extra water with you. 

I always advise against leaving your dog in a car unattended. However, that recommendation is especially crucial during summer months when the temperature in the car can rapidly skyrocket and feel like an oven. Don’t underestimate how quickly that can happen: According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, the temperature in your car can rise twenty degrees in only ten minutes, thirty degrees in twenty minutes, and so on. Even if it’s a comfortable eighty degrees outside, after thirty minutes it can be 114 degrees in the car.  In such temperatures, dogs can become severely dehydrated; some suffer brain damage, and many die. Cracking the window, even a few inches, doesn’t help. Just don’t leave your dog in the car alone. If you have to go somewhere and you can’t bring your dog inside with you, then leave her at home.

Whenever possible, walk your dog in the shade or on the grass. Asphalt, metal, and other substances can burn the pads on her paws. 

Make sure your dog has a fresh haircut, but don’t shave her—a dog’s fur can help protect her from the heat and sunburns.

Don’t forget about sunscreen! If your dog has any bald patches or little hair, make sure you lather her with protective lotion before you head out. Dogs’ noses and ears are also susceptible to sunburn. Talk to your vet about the best kind of sunscreen for your dog. 

Cold Weather

“I live in an area where winters are bitterly cold. Any tips on protecting my dog that time of year?”

Just as with excessively hot weather, cold weather climates come with their own set of potential dangers for dogs. Of course, how much your dog can tolerate will depend on her coat, size, age, amount of body fat, and overall health. Here are some safety precautions you can take: 

Know the dangers of antifreeze: it’s a sweet substance that dogs may find tasty, but even a tiny amount can poison your pet. Clean up any spills immediately.

If you live in an area where it snows, there will likely be salt on the sidewalks. Wipe your dog’s paws whenever you come into the house —the salt can irritate the pads of her feet and make her sick if she licks it. She may also have antifreeze or other chemicals on her paws that you need to remove. 

Don’t let your dog eat the snow—again, it can contain chemicals that could be toxic to her.

Always keep your pet on a leash, especially during a snowstorm, and make sure she’s wearing her ID tags at all times. More dogs are lost in winter than in any other season.9

If your dog has short hair and will tolerate clothing, consider getting her a coat or sweater that will keep her extra warm. Booties can help keep her paws toasty, too. 

Make sure your dog still gets plenty of exercise in cold weather (always keeping her safety in mind, of course). Many dogs love the snow, so bundle up and get outside. What if you or your dog just can’t handle the cold? The good news is that there are plenty of indoor classes for dogs.

Losing Teeth 

“I’m always finding my puppy’s little teeth around the house—I even found her chewing on one the other day. Is this normal?”

Yes, it’s normal. Dogs start developing twenty-eight baby teeth (also known as deciduous) at around three weeks of life. However, by four months these super-sharp tiny teeth start falling out to make room for forty-two permanent adult teeth. Whereas a child will take years to lose all her baby teeth, a dog will go through the process in a matter of months. You might find the teeth throughout the house, but chances are you never will. Many dogs swallow them, and that’s okay. Of course, call your vet if your dog loses a permanent tooth for any reason or if you notice that she has any retained teeth—that is, a baby tooth that stays in place even after the permanent tooth has erupted. These retained teeth can force the permanent teeth to grow at abnormal angles and can also lead to tooth decay, so your vet may have to extract them. 

Fear of the Vet 

“My dog starts shaking and whimpering anytime I get near the vet’s office. What should I do to make her more comfortable on visits?”

Think about it from your dog’s perspective. Imagine if every time you went to a particular place you got poked and probed and possibly had to endure multiple injections. Now imagine that you didn’t understand that the people doing this to you were only trying to keep you healthy. Well, that’s how it is for dogs (just as it is for very young children), and it’s no wonder many of them seem to downright despise vet visits. Some get anxious beforehand and may tremble or cry. Others have to be carried into the office because otherwise, they wouldn’t set one paw through the door. I’m not going to promise you that you can help any dog love her visits to the vet. However, you can take steps to make them a little easier for her:

First, make sure you choose a vet who has a good bedside manner. An extra gentle touch or soothing voice can help calm your dog.

Take your dog on trips to your vet’s office at times when she doesn’t have an appointment. Ask your vet and the other staff members to shower your dog with lots of affection and treats. By doing this, your dog won’t always have a negative association with going to the vet. It’s as though she starts to realize, “Hey, this place can be kind of fun!”

If your dog seems truly anxious or fearful about her vet visits—some signs include trembling, growling, snapping, or panting—talk to your vet about what else you can do to help settle her nerves. 

[luckydoogs]

KEY PRINCIPLES FOR DOG TRAINING

Put simply, if an outcome to behavior is positive, then the dog is likely to repeat that behavior, and if the outcome is not favorable, then that dog is less likely to repeat it. This is generally true for virtually all animals, including people.

Unfortunately, the dog training world is full of people who place entirely too much emphasis on the latter part of that statement. However, training is far more effective when you focus on emphasizing what you like more than what you don’t like. Think about your favorite teacher when you were in school. Let’s say you asked her for help with a particular concept or problem. What did she do? Did she yell at you? Did she blame you for not paying attention? Did she slap you on the wrist? No. She probably said something like, “Sit down and let’s go over it again. I’ll help you understand it better.” She may have even acknowledged that the concept is hard and that it was okay if you didn’t get it instantly. She probably patiently explained things slowly and clearly, and her mood was light. Her goal was simply to make sure she was communicating the lesson effectively to you. Now think about a teacher you didn’t like. Maybe that teacher was annoyed when you asked for clarification. Possibly he blamed you and pointed out all the things you were doing wrong, rather than trying to help you reason through the problem. He might have discouraged you, and you may have even feared him. You probably know what I’m talking about; many of us have unfortunately had at least one teacher like that. Compare these two encounters—one teacher probably made you excited about learning and the other made you dread it. Both approaches may have gotten results, but which do you think was more effective for the long term? Certainly the kind teachers. We can apply these same ideologies to the dog training world. By using positive methods, you will become an understanding, engaging teacher, and your dog will love learning from you! Here are the six most important tenets to my training program that you need to know to become that favorite teacher:

Training Principle #1: Bonding with Your Dog

 From the moment you bring your dog home, one of your main focuses should be your bond with her. That’s because having an exceptionally well-behaved dog is primarily a by-product of having a relationship based on love, respect, and understanding. The good news is that it’s easy to bond with dogs—they are hardwired to want to connect with us, so much so that researchers have found that dogs would rather spend time with humans than with their kennel mates! As much as we love dogs, it turns out they think we’re pretty awesome, too. Studies have shown that during human-animal interaction, levels of oxytocin (the “bonding” hormone) increase for both the person and the dog. Also, Gregory Berns, MD, Ph.D., a neuroscientist at Emory University and author of How Dogs Love Us, spent years studying the canine brain by using MRI technology. By looking at brain activity, he found that dogs and humans similarly experience emotions. So how do you bond with your dog? Have fun! The fastest way to achieve a bond with most dogs is through activities that involve play, such as fetch, tug-of-war, or even a game of chase in the backyard. As Plato once said, “You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation.” That certainly applies to dogs, too. Bonding is also a matter of letting your dog know that she can trust you and depend on you. That means keeping her water bowl filled, feeding and walking her at expected intervals, and speaking to her in a kind voice. You’ll find that dogs are pretty easy to bond with when you meet their basic needs and wants. My students become the best teachers to their dogs when they tap into the part of their brain that helps them be good parents. Don’t have kids? Me neither, but I think that most of us have it within us to learn how to “parent” someone else. You might think, “Well, parenting a child and parenting a dog are very different things.” True, but there are more similarities than you may realize. One study found that, just as with children, dogs are more likely to interact in an environment where they might otherwise feel apprehensive when they have a “secure base”—a person they feel confident and secure around. Just as a child might not walk into a birthday party at someone else’s house without his mother or father right by his side, a hesitant dog might feel more secure in a new situation because you’re next to her. With that reassurance, she may relax enough to explore and play. This isn’t anthropomorphizing dogs; this is science.

Training Principle #2: The Importance of Exercise

Like humans, dogs need to keep physically active to stay healthy. However, it’s about much more than just their health. From a teaching perspective, you shouldn’t expect a moderate- to a high-energy dog to absorb new concepts and focus on the lesson at hand until she has exercised and used up some of her energy. Also, if your dog has an unwanted behavior—say, she likes to shred apart your furniture every time you leave the house, incessantly jump on guests who come to your door or dig up the backyard —the source is likely a lack of regular mental and physical exercise. Exercise isn’t optional for many dogs; it’s a necessity. Until around the start of the twentieth century, dogs had appropriate outlets for all that energy—many had jobs and performed certain roles such as hunting or herding. Yes, our culture has changed dramatically, and dogs are rarely required to do many of the things they were initially bred to do. That doesn’t mean we shouldn’t continue to challenge them. For example, my three Border Collies were specifically bred to herd sheep, and while not all Border Collies necessarily have the drive and energy for this kind of activity, mine certainly do. Now I’ll confess, I don’t have any sheep in my yard in New Orleans, but I do have Frisbees and balls, so I’m able to give my dogs an outlet: to work with a person to perform a physical goal. So while they don’t herd sheep, they’ll chase a ball and bring it back, and this appears to give them great contentment. Dogs, at their core, require regular interaction with people—and when you couple such interaction with exercise, you can expect better results in training. For low- to medium-energy dogs, walks, a trip to a dog park, and letting them run around the yard may do the trick. However, for those level three dogs who have tons of energy and are always raring to go, those activities aren’t going to cut it. So what will? As I mentioned earlier, playing fetch is the most efficient way to satisfy a dog both mentally and physically.

Fetch

Here’s what you need to know to teach fetch: 

First, let’s make sure we’re talking about the same thing when it comes to fetching. I define the game as follows: you throw a toy; your dog chases it, picks it up, brings it back, and lets it go readily. Your dog is chasing a moving object; this should not be confused with “retrieve”—your dog picking up a still object off in the distance. It can take a good two to twelve weeks for your dog to learn a polished, fluid game of fetch, so don’t get frustrated if yours doesn’t learn it immediately. Give her some time.

Don’t use treats. Trying to teach a dog to fetch within minutes of using food is a bad idea in most cases, as the dog is in food mode and less likely to be “grabby” with her mouth. The reward for a proper fetch should be the toy or object you’re playing with, not something edible. 

Make sure your dog loves the toy you’re playing fetch with. That might take a bit of trial and error. When I first got my dog Supernova, he had little interest in playing fetch with the Frisbee. One day I was at a pet supply store with him and noticed he was fascinated with a cat toy that looked like a feather duster. Instead of thinking, “That’s not a dog toy. Let’s keep going!” I bought the toy, ripped off the feathers, and taped them to the Frisbee. That was all it took: Supernova has loved playing fetch with the Frisbee ever since and even performed in many Frisbee shows before hundreds of thousands of people in his career. Experiment with a variety of toys (I recommend trying a rope toy at first) and, if necessary, think outside of the box. 

Don’t just throw the item and expect your dog to run after it. First, you have to get her interested in it. Try playing keep-away with the item or pretend you are playing with the toy yourself and having a lot of fun. The idea is to entice your dog to grab it. 

Play tug-of-war with the item. This is a critical step of teaching fetch. Once your dog starts playing tug-of-war with an object, that’s a really good sign that she not only loves the object but is also well on her way to learning fetch. 

Teach “let go.” If the key to teaching a dog to like a toy is to make it exciting, then the key to teaching her to let go of the item is to make it uninteresting. Keep the toy in your hand but make sure it’s still, as though it’s in a vise. Also, act bored and dull, as though you couldn’t care less that your dog is pulling on the toy. Don’t look at her, and certainly don’t move the toy in any way. This may take a few seconds or minutes. Be patient. Eventually, your dog will become bored with the toy and let go of it; the split second she does, tell her “Yes!” and give the toy back to her as a reward for proper behavior. (Most people wait too long to reward with the toy at first during these critical successes. Do your best not to make that mistake.) This tells her, “I have no problem giving you the toy and playing with you, but you have to play by my rules.” Yanking or prying it out of her mouth isn’t teaching her anything and will not work as a long-term solution with most dogs.

Keep your throws short; the number of reps is more important at this stage, so toss the toy a few feet. As your dog runs to get it, run alongside her but slightly behind her, so as not to distract her from the moving toy. Some dogs will pick up the toy at this point, but others need a little encouragement—you might have to point to the toy or nudge it. Then after your dog picks up the toy, get some eye contact with her, bolt back to the point of origin, and encourage her to chase you. Most energetic dogs love to chase; that is reinforced by your insistence that yours chase you. (Tug-of-war and “let go” are the first two components to teaching fetch; the chase is the third.) Once you get that down pat, then run halfway with your dog and encourage her to keep going after the toy. Eventually, you’ll run 25 percent of the distance, and then you won’t have to run at all.

Training Principle #3: Learning to Communicate

 From the second you start training your dog, you need to establish some basic communication with one another. Luckily, dogs are hardwired for that, more so than any other known living being. Brian Hare, Ph.D., associate professor of evolutionary anthropology at Duke University and co-author of The Genius of Dogs, once said, “Of all the species on this planet, the one that has the gift of reading intentions and understanding what it is that we want to communicate…it’s in dogs. It’s not in chimpanzees and bonobos, our closest relative. It’s actually that dogs do have cognitive abilities to understand us in a way that some species don’t.” If you have a puppy or a new dog with little training, then you’ll need to accept that it can take some time to establish mutual communication. That’s why controlling the environment is vital during this communication building phase, because your dog has yet to learn what you expect of her. This process might feel like it’s taking longer than it should, but don’t give up—it can take a week or two to lay some groundwork. Once you do, progress will start to speed up quickly. Here’s what you need to know to effectively communicate with your dog:

EYE CONTACT

Eye contact can play a huge role in communication. Dogs make eye contact with us to gather information about our emotions, when and where they might get fed, or what’s going on in a particular situation. Researchers have also found that dogs can follow our gaze and even understand the meaning behind it. Of course, I’m not telling you to stare your dog down—it’s just a matter of looking at her in the same way you’d look at another person. Understanding the training bubble—the distance between your eyes and your dog’s eyes—will go a long way when teaching your dog eye contact at first: the closer your eyes are to hers, the faster your dog will likely respond. I even recommend sitting on the ground when teaching at first so you can get eye level with your dog. Over time, you can “stretch” that bubble and the distance between you. However, do that slowly or the bubble will pop.

HAND SIGNALS

Think about it—if you met someone who didn’t know your language, you might use a lot of hand signals to communicate with one another initially. Well, it’s the same thing with dogs. They might have no idea what we’re saying at first, and they’ll never fully understand everything we say, but hand signals and body language help communicate what we want. That’s why when teaching dogs, I always point, gesture, and use exaggerated body language in addition to using words and encouragement. Some dogs are more responsive to hand signals than words, and vice versa—time will tell which one your dog prefers—but in the beginning, be sure to incorporate a lot of body language. Feel free to make up any hand signals you’d like! Don’t take it for granted that dogs understand our hand signals—they’re able to do so in a way no other species can. As Dr. Hare explains, “Indirect comparisons between dogs and apes, dogs are more skilled at using human gestures to find hidden food or objects.” For instance, he and other researchers found that if you take two cups and put a treat under one of them and then point to it or even gaze at it, a dog is more likely than a chimpanzee to go toward the correct cup. Researchers have ruled out the possibility that dogs simply use their sense of smell to find the food—the dogs follow the humans’ gestures to locate the correct cup.13 “We have interpreted this to mean that dogs understand the communicative intentions of humans in a way that chimpanzees do not,” says Dr. Hare. “It seems dogs are remarkable for their ability to understand our gestures flexibly.” 

TEACHING YOUR LANGUAGE

The average dog’s ability to understand our vocabulary is on a par with that of a young child, so don’t hold back when it comes to teaching your dog your language. When you’re ready to teach your dog what a word means— and that when you say it, you’d like to see a specific action—it’s important to keep a few things in mind. Let’s take “down” as an example (as in “lie down,” not related to jumping): say it once not “Down, down, down, down.” There are two problems with repeating a word multiple times: First, your dog might think the word you’re saying is actually “Downdowndowndown.” Second, even if your dog does eventually learn that you are simply repeating “down” four times, she might interpret that as a precedent to regularly wait until you get to the fourth request. There are exceptions to this: for instance, you might occasionally give a request (say, “down”) and then repeat it once for emphasis if you want your dog to remain in that position longer than a few seconds (“Yes, down!”) However, that’s quite different from saying the word you’re teaching repeatedly regularly. Instead, be clear and concise. If your dog does not do the thing you’ve taught her, simply say “No,” and then withhold the reward. You might just need to take a break. Also, keep in mind that teaching basic vocabulary can take a few weeks. When first teaching a word to a dog, it’s also important to say the word after she performs the skill. So using the example of “down,” encourage your dog into a down position using a lure and hand signals. The second she lies down, give her a treat, and then say “Down!” slowly, one time at a normal volume (no need to shout) and with purpose.

LEARNING YOUR DOG’S COMMUNICATION CUES

Teaching our dogs to understand us is important, but it’s just as important that we learn to understand them. A relationship is a two-way street! Anyone who has ever lived with a dog knows that the different barks, growls, and whines they make and their various expressions all mean something. I’d bet that you could probably differentiate between your dog’s bark that means a stranger is approaching and a playful bark or one that indicates hunger. Also, dogs express how they’re feeling through their body language, just as we do. Certain dog postures and movements can help you tell the difference between a growl that says “Let’s play!” and one that says “Back away.” What your pet’s body language means will vary based on the individual dog and the actual situation. For example, my dog Alpha Centauri will stand still like a statue with a closed mouth and an intense stare. Outsiders might interpret this as a sign of aggression. However, in my dog’s case, it almost always means, “Please, I will do anything if you’ll just throw a toy for me right now.” Context is everything. Keeping in mind the importance of getting to know your dog’s cues and the circumstances under which they occur, here are some things to look for in general:

Tail: When it’s upright, that usually indicates interest; if it’s wagging side to side in combination with another body language that appears to be happy, that probably means the dog excited or wants to play. Slow, deliberate wags could mean the dog is uncertain about a situation, while a tail tucked between the dog’s legs may indicate fear and anxiety.

Ears: When these are pulled back, a dog may be fearful or anxious, relaxed, or simply listening to what’s behind her; when pricked forward, the dog is probably on high alert or very interested in something.

Eyes: As you get to know your dog, you’ll instantly be able to assess her mood and get an idea of what she might be thinking by looking into her eyes. If you notice her pupils are dilated, her eyes are darting from side to side, or you see the whites of her eyes, she may be afraid of something. A direct, intense stare may indicate a threat or a strong desire to interact with you, but remember there are exceptions to this.

Mouth: Scared dogs may keep their mouths closed or have their teeth bared and lips curled. A dog who is feeling anxious may pant and lick her lips often. However, a dog whose mouth is open with her tongue out is possibly playful or relaxed (though if she’s panting, that could mean she’s either uneasy or overheated).

Posture: While shy or scared dogs may crouch low to the ground, confident ones may stand tall. If a dog seems natural and relaxed, this probably means she’s easygoing in that setting.

Training Principle #4: Be Consistent

The hallmark of any truly successful dog trainer is consistency. Until you get good at this, your dog will not listen to you or understand you in the way that you probably won't. I can’t overemphasize this point. Yes, it takes some effort to be consistent, but it’s not that difficult. For example, if you ask your dog to “come” and she doesn’t, then it’s on you to snap into training mode for a few seconds or minutes and motivate her to come to you, regardless of what you are busy doing. You gave the request; now see it through and make sure you get the result you want. You may have to grab a treat and lure your dog every step of the way from where you called her from or possibly escort her on a leash, but this is what it means to be consistent. Also, when something happens that you don’t like, then it’s your mandate to make sure it doesn’t happen again. Every instance in which your dog performs an action you don’t want means it will take more time to resolve. Say your dog rushes into another room after you’ve asked her to stay, and you don’t call her back and repeat this training exercise. You’ve made an error in your consistency, which may eventually snowball into a dog who listens and responds to requests only on occasion. If you notice that your puppy is chewing on the table leg, you need to divert her attention to something else that is acceptable to chew on every single time. (See this page, chapter 7, for the troubleshooting section on chewing.) In a nutshell, be relentlessly consistent, and I promise you’ll get great results.

Training Principle #5: Control the Environment

Again, the number one mistake made by new pet parents is giving their dogs too much freedom too early by not controlling their environment enough! This is essential to effective training. Don’t just wing it —dogs are very smart, but without guidance from us, they have no idea how to interact in our culture. When I have a new dog, my protocol is to attach a four- to six-foot leash to my belt loop during the day so that when I get up to go to the kitchen, check the mail, or do yard work, my dog is with me. This not only allows you to prevent your dog from inquiring about the expensive shoes you left by the front door but also allows you to avert or interrupt potential behaviors you don’t wish to see repeated. Most important, it also gives you many more opportunities to notice your dog doing things you like so that you can communicate your pleasure with her! For best results, attach your dog to you or make sure she’s in a puppy-proofed area the first few weeks or months of training. That way bad habits won’t even get started. Your goal is to put your dog in a setting where she is not able to do something you don’t want. 

Training Principle #6: Train from the Inside Out

If you want long-term meaningful results with your dog, your goal should be not to make your dog do something (which I call “outside-in training”) but to make your dog want to do something on her own (called “inside-out training”). The idea behind outside-in training is that if you make your dog’s life momentarily unpleasant, you will discourage certain behavior in the future. This strategy is called “experiential avoidance,” and I find it less than ideal. As I’ve explained, traditional dog trainers focus on correcting behavior through outside influences including leash jerking, manhandling, and devices such as metal choke chains or prong collars that when quickly popped or jerked around a dog’s neck cause discomfort (or outright pain), as a way to communicate “Don’t do that.” These trainers bank on a dog’s misbehaving or messing up just so they can teach her a lesson. This is an amateurish, antiquated approach. Remember, we are capable of communicating with dogs much more intelligently than this. There are many problems with the outside-in training. First and foremost, it does nothing to promote the bond between a person and a dog—a bond that is vital during the training process. To me, that alone is immediate grounds for dismissal of this type of training. I see little point in teaching a dog if you can’t both enjoy it. I want the dogs I train to be buzzing and loving life to the max—not just because I respect them, but also because I know that’s how they learn best. What’s more, outside-in training rarely if ever leads to long-lasting results. Physically forcing your dog to do something—even if it’s as simple and benign as pushing her behind down into a sit position—doesn’t teach her in a meaningful way that encourages her to think for herself. It’s simply too shallow a way to teach a complex animal like a dog. I’m not saying to touch your dog ever during training—for instance, if she ever needs assistance getting out of the pool, by all means, help her! I’m just saying that you shouldn’t rely on physically controlling her as a primary training strategy if you want the best results. Inside-out training, on the other hand, encourages our dogs to use their sophisticated brains. When they do think for themselves and behave a certain way because they’ve been taught to do so by you, then they’ll more likely repeat that behavior of their own accord. You’ll also see results a lot faster, and your dog will be more prepared for the years ahead. So how do you get your dog to think from the inside out? Along with learning how to bond and communicate with your dog, it’s a matter of showing your dog the right thing to do and then making her life awesome when she does it by rewarding her with a treat and/or playtime and genuine praise. Stop and think how you felt as a child when an authority figure gave you sincere praise. Maybe you aced a test and your teacher announced that you had the highest score in the class. I’d bet you tried extra hard to have a repeat performance. I know that I certainly advanced faster as a child when my parents or teachers cheered me on and recognized my accomplishments. That’s what we want to do with our dogs

[luckydoogs]

GROOMING BASICS

Grooming is a critical element of caring for your dog; it can vary greatly depending on your dog’s coat, age, and the area in which you live. Here’s an overview: 

Nails

It’s very important to keep your dog’s nails short. Not only can they scratch you and your furniture, but they can also snag on the carpet or even make it difficult for your dog to walk. However, cutting them appropriately can be tricky—cut too deep and you can cause your dog a lot of pain and excessive bleeding. If you want to do it yourself, ask your groomer or veterinarian to show you how to do so correctly. Once you learn the proper technique, teach your dog to have a good association with having her nails trimmed. For instance, show her the nail clipper and allow her to smell it, then touch the nail trimmer to her nail, and then put the trimmer around it. Go slowly! Reward your dog after each small step if she behaves calmly, gradually working up to being able to cut the nail. She will learn to tolerate getting her nails trimmed in no time!

Teeth

We all know how important it is to brush our teeth. Well, why would dogs be any different? Ideally, you should brush your dog’s teeth daily. Doing so not only helps keep her breath fresh but also helps prevent periodontal disease (gum disease), which is common among dogs and, when left unchecked, has been associated with serious problems such as heart, liver, or kidney disease. Pick up a dog toothbrush or a finger brush from a pet supply store. Don’t use human toothpaste, as it contains high-foaming detergents that a dog could swallow or inhale—they don’t know to spit it out! Instead, experiment with different flavors of dog toothpaste until you find one your dog likes. Also, make sure your dog has plenty of dental treats and soft toys to chew on as well as quality food—some products marked as “dental diets” include plaque- and/or tartar-reduction ingredients. Talk to your vet about the best food and treats for your dog based on her dental and other health needs. The American Veterinary Dental College recommends that you ask your vet about plaque and tartar preventative options that can avert periodontal disease. Also, contact her if you notice signs of dental disease such as loose or discolored teeth, bad breath, any bleeding or sensitivity in the mouth, drooling, dropping food, and a loss of appetite or weight. During your dog’s wellness exams—or any vet visit, for that matter—your vet should also examine your dog’s mouth to make sure it looks healthy.

Eyes

It’s important to regularly look into your dog’s eyes as a way of communicating with her. When you do so, if you notice any gunk buildup in the corners, wipe it away with a moist cotton ball. Make sure your dog’s hair doesn’t fall into her eyes, which can certainly irritate them. Call your vet if you notice any signs of an eye infection such as redness, cloudiness, excessive discharge, crusting, squinting, or a visible third eyelid (yes, dogs have three!) If your dog has rusty-looking tearstains at the corner of her eyes, which can be particularly noticeable on white dogs, first visit your vet to determine a possible cause such as allergies or issues with the tear ducts. Then, if the stains bother you, talk to your vet about various options—for instance, pet supply stores carry products that you can sprinkle on your dog’s food to possibly clear up the stains.

Ears

To clean your dog’s ears, which you should ideally do once a week, you’ll need cotton balls and a cleaning solution (ask your vet which one he recommends for your dog). Dab the outside of the earflap and then, with a new cotton ball, slowly work your way into the ear, stopping whenever you feel any resistance. If you notice that the cotton balls get very dirty, that could be a sign of an ear infection, so take your dog in for a medical exam. Other signs of an infection include discharge, crusting, an odor in the ear, redness, and swelling. Also, if your dog is scratching her ear a lot or rubbing it on the floor or other surfaces, or if she seems off-balance, schedule an appointment to make sure everything is okay. She may have ear mites, a parasitic infection that can cause inflammation and irritation in the ear.

Coat

Some dogs need to be brushed every day to prevent matting and excessive shedding, others every few weeks, or even less frequently. It’s important to use the correct kinds of combs and brushes; your vet or a professional groomer can help you choose. Long-haired dogs may require a slicker brush and a bristle brush, while those with a smooth, short coat may need a bristle brush and a rubber brush. You’ll find that while some dogs love being brushed, others hate every second of it. If your dog falls into the latter category, go slowly. For example, first let your dog sniff the brush, then gently touch her with it, and work your way up to stroking her with the brush once. Reward every step of the way. Also, while you’re brushing, check for fleas, flea dirt (flea droppings that look like little black specks), ticks, any lesions, irritated areas, or other issues with your dog’s skin that may require medical attention. Always be gentle!

Bath time

Some experts recommend bathing dogs weekly; others suggest less often, such as monthly. This is truly a matter of preference and lifestyle—for instance, if your dog sleeps in bed with you, you’ll probably want to make extra sure she’s clean and debris free. You can bathe your dog in a regular bathtub or a small portable plastic tub; some people even take their dogs into the shower with them! The key is to not get any water or shampoo in your dog’s ears, eyes, or nose; don’t just dump water on her head. You might want to carefully put cotton balls in your dog’s ears to play it extra safe. Also, always use mild shampoos specifically designed for dogs; talk to your vet or groomer about which one is best for your dog. Lastly, if you are giving your dog regular baths—say, weekly—make sure her skin doesn’t become irritated or flaky, which can be a sign that it’s drying out; if that happens, either cut back on baths or choose a moisturizing shampoo that will help keep your dog’s skin soft.

Vaccinations

Like humans, dogs need certain vaccinations to keep them safe from illnesses that can otherwise cause very serious symptoms. One example: Parvovirus is a highly contagious viral illness that can cause vomiting; lethargy; severe, often bloody diarrhea; and dehydration. It can even lead to death. However, vaccines do come with some health risks, such as soreness and allergic reactions, so you should work with your veterinarian to determine exactly what your dog needs. A puppy should start receiving core vaccinations around six weeks and then every three weeks until she’s sixteen weeks old (except rabies, which is administered once between twelve and sixteen weeks at a minimum). Adult dogs need to be revaccinated every one to three years; your vet will determine how often based on the vaccine, your dog’s particular health, and her environment. In 2011, the American Animal Hospital Association updated its guideline recommendations for dog vaccines. They list the “Core” vaccines—the ones universally recommended—and “Noncore” vaccines, which are optional based on your dog’s exposure. Again, work with your vet to determine which ones your dog needs. Here’s a breakdown:

      CORE

Canine distemper virus

Canine adenovirus 2

Canine parvovirus 2

Rabies

      NONCORE

Bordetella

Leptospirosis

Lyme disease

Canine parainfluenza virus

Canine influenza

Measles (puppies younger than six weeks or breeding females)

[luckydoogs]

BASIC CARE FOR YOUR DOG : FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD

Store-bought, homemade, vegetarian, gluten-free, grain-free, raw—dogs have almost as many food options as humans do, and it can get confusing determining what’s healthy and what’s not. Marketing tactics can get in the way, and if you ask other people their opinions, everyone is going to give you different advice. For the most part, it’s a matter of personal preference. However, here are some things to consider:

What Kind?

When I choose a dog food, I read the ingredient list, keeping in mind that ingredients are listed in order of quantity. I always avoid brands with inexpensive foods such as corn as the main ingredients and any with questionable ingredients. Instead, I want the first ingredient to be a quality protein such as chicken or fish. In general, your selection should include a statement of nutritional adequacy that means the food is complete and balanced for your pet’s particular life stage according to the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). It should also include a guaranteed analysis, which lists the percentages of the nutrients, and it must meet certain requirements—at least minimum percentages of crude protein and crude fat and maximum percentages of crude fiber and moisture. Don’t get fooled by sneaky marketing ploys—for instance, just as with human food, many terms such as “whole foods” or “natural” haven’t been regulated, so they don’t mean much when you see them emblazoned on a bag. Instead, work closely with your vet to find the best food based on your dog’s age, size, activity level, and any particular health needs. Some people who work at pet supply stores are also particularly knowledgeable and may be able to help.

Your vet can also help determine whether your dog would do better on dry food, wet food, or a combination of both. Also, if you’re considering making your dog’s food yourself, talk to your vet about what’s right for your pet. Of course, your dog is going to have a say in the matter, too, so you may have a little trial and error until you find one that she loves.

How Often?

Puppies should eat two to three meals a day until they’re around six months old. After that, you can feed your dog once or twice a day, depending on your dog’s age, size, and exercise and eating habits. Some people free feed their dogs by pouring the daily food allotment into the bowl in the morning and letting their pets graze throughout the day. However, I find keeping a schedule is the best, especially when you’re housetraining, as you can more easily predict when your dog will have to go outside to do her business. Also, in households with multiple dogs, scheduling is usually the only way to make sure that each dog is eating her food.

How Much?

In terms of how much to feed your dog, you can start with the general recommendations on the bag, but it will vary tremendously based on your dog’s age, size, metabolism, and exercise habits. A dog competing in agility competitions is going to need more calories than a dog who is the same age, breed, and size but a total couch potato. Talk to your vet about the ideal amount for your dog, and then watch your pet to make sure she remains a healthy weight. A good rule of thumb: You want to be able to feel her ribs, but you don’t want to see them. If you notice your dog is getting too chunky, you can help her lose weight by limiting her portions, cutting back on treats, and increasing her exercise (all under the guidance of an expert, of course!).

Considering Food Allergies

Dogs can be allergic to a variety of foods; the most common offenders are beef, dairy, chicken, lamb, fish, eggs, corn, wheat, and soy. Of course, these allergies vary from dog to dog. Often if a dog is allergic to one ingredient, she may be allergic to others. Also, she may eat a certain food for months, even years, and then suddenly develop an allergy to it. Symptoms of a food allergy include vomiting, diarrhea, itchy skin and rear end, ear inflammation, and hot spots (red, moist, hot, irritated lesions on your dog’s skin). If you suspect your dog may be allergic to something she’s eating, talk to your vet about a plan of action. He may prescribe a special hypoallergenic food and/or put your pet on an elimination diet to try to determine the culprit.

Raw Diets

There are a lot of trends when it comes to dietary options for dogs. For instance, you may have heard about BARF diets, which stands for either Bones and Raw Food or Biologically Appropriate Raw Food. The idea is that dogs should eat what their ancestors ate in the wild: raw meat, bones, and organs. Proponents claim that this kind of diet has health benefits such as shinier coats, cleaner teeth, healthier skin, and more energy, though no studies have backed that up. However, many veterinary experts as well as the American Veterinary Medical Association, the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, and countless other organizations warn of the risks that come with a raw food diet for pets, such as the potential for E. coli and other food-borne illnesses and the dangers of bones perforating a dog’s organs. Also, a study in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association evaluated raw diets and found that they had nutritional excesses or deficiencies that could cause serious health problems in dogs. Of course, it’s up to you what kind of food you want to feed your dog. So if you feel strongly about putting your pet on a raw food diet, I urge you to work very closely with your veterinarian to make sure your dog is getting a well-balanced diet that won’t harm her. However, I think the risks of a BARF diet far outweigh the potential benefits, and I recommend avoiding it.

[luckydoogs]

Dog Begging you for food

Why dogs do this :

Some dogs will try to steal food the second they think you’re not looking—and then some will just make you feel guilty about not sharing. You know what I mean—begging is when your dog looks at you with those big, pathetic eyes that say, “I’m so hungry. Please feed me or I am going to collapse right now.” And guess what happens when you cave in and slip him a morsel from the table? You’re locking in this habit even further! Dogs become beggars by your feeding them while you eat. Period.

How to handle the behavior:

To teach your dog not to beg, you’ll first need to teach “settle,” which is an indefinite “down/stay” where your dog just relaxes and/or takes a nap. You are teaching your dog what he should do instead of begging. “Settle” is different from “down” because you are not going to require your dog to be in an attentive “What’s next?” state of mind. You want him to chill out instead. It’s really helpful not only with begging, but also if you want your dog to, say, relax when you have company over or to give you some space when you’re busy working. “Settle” is best introduced when your dog is already in a relaxed mood, ideally after exercise. First, ask him to lie down, and then spend some time with him. Pet him softly. Encourage him to be calm as you would with a young child you were trying to settle down for some rest time. As your dog begins to relax, say “Settle” in a soft, soothing voice. Another great time to teach “settle” is when you catch your dog naturally doing this. Remember, this is called “capturing” a behavior. Once your dog knows what “settle” means, you can set up training sessions to stop begging. In short, your goal is to instruct your dog to settle while you eat. Feeding your dog before you eat your meal will give you a head start—the less hungry he is, the less likely he’ll beg. Also, start with small increments; for instance, maybe teach “settle” during a short snack time (say, you’re eating an apple) and gradually work up to a full meal. Ask your dog to settle, ideally before begging occurs. You may need to escort him to a particular place where he’s comfortable, like his favorite bed in the same room. If he continually breaks the settle or continues to beg, say “No” and simply put him outside the room for a minute or two. Bring him back out and try again. You can reward your dog when he remains in a settle and doesn’t beg during the meal. However, the timing of this reward is key in this case. When it comes to teaching your dog not to beg, the only acceptable time to reward with food is after dinner. One last note: What if your dog starts begging and you don’t want to make a training session of it at that moment? If that’s the case, put him in another room until you are done with your meal so that begging does not go unchecked.

[luckydoogs]

Dogs Barking

Why Dogs do this :

Barking is a dog’s way of communicating—it’s one of the most natural things they do. Dogs bark to get attention and to show excitement, happiness, fear, anxiety, suspicion, and many other emotions. A dog might bark to alert you of someone approaching, or he might bark because he gets anxious during thunderstorms. The most common types of barking are when something outside or in the distance excites your dog, he’s barking simply out of habit, or he’s a high-energy dog who’s bored.

How to handle the behavior:

You can likely resolve barking issues within a few weeks. Other than making sure your dog gets enough exercise, here are some techniques that may help: 

 Set up training exercises rather than waiting for real-life situations to emerge. First, get your dog primed by asking for some easy things like “sit” or “down.” Reward generously. Next, have a friend with a dog walk back and forth in front of your house, knock on the door repeatedly, or ring the doorbell—anything that’s likely to tempt your dog to bark. Reward if your dog is quiet. If this sets your dog off into a barking frenzy, take a step back; for instance, you might ask your friend too, say, knock once instead of three times, or even just lightly tap the door with her finger to get some traction. Find the point of compliance from your dog and work from there.

Aside from primary training sessions, there will be times for spontaneous secondary sessions as well (which, if your dog is a big barker, maybe many times each day). Dogs often indicate that they’re going to bark before they do so. You might notice that your dog’s ears prick up and he starts focusing on the thing he sees or hears outside. This is the ideal time to train your dog before he barks. First, ask him to focus on you. (One more benefit of the “leave it/look at me” combo exercise!) Initially, it may be slow going, as your dog may seemingly think, “How could you possibly expect me to look at you when a dog is walking in front of our house?!” However, your goal is to look for tiny hints of compliance, such as a glance at you. If your dog does this, then immediately acknowledge his small success with an emphatic “Yes!” and reward him. 

If you are unable to get your dog’s attention on you, and he continues to bark, your next step is to get him away from the distraction altogether. This may mean escorting him to a bedroom where you can get him to focus. Once you’ve established success here (this could take one or more training sessions), next move to the hallway and work your way closer to the door. Never mind if the distraction outside is now gone—it’s still important to follow through on this impromptu training session. Reward and communicate that you love the quiet behavior. 

Your dog may bark while you are away from the house, but of course, you won’t be there to train him. Make sure you exercise your dog before you leave and put him in a part of the house where he is less likely to bark, such as away from a window with a view of the sidewalk. That way he’ll more likely stay on track whether you’re around or not.  

Keep in mind that when it comes to barking, you don’t have to be all or nothing. Some people like their dog to bark once or twice to let them know something’s up outside. If that’s what you prefer, simply delay getting your dog’s attention on you until after, say, the first or second bark and follow the preceding advice.

[luckydoogs]

Dog Chewing

Why Dogs do this :

Puppies chew because they’re teething; it hurts as their teeth come in (just as this process does for human babies) and gnawing on things helps relieve that pain. Older dogs may chew for various reasons: either it has become a bad habit because they were never taught as puppies the proper things to chew on, or they’re bored so they resort to chewing to occupy themselves. Also, remember that dogs love exploring their environment. “The sense of taste and feeling in the mouth is the first sense to develop (dogs are born blind and deaf!) so, understandably, young puppies use their mouth to check things out,” says Dr. Herron. Chewing is also instinctual—thousands of years ago, dogs had to chew and grind through bone and marrow to survive; many still have that innate desire.2 Regardless of the reason, rest assured that a dog can learn to stop chewing at any age. One caveat: Some dogs may chew because they’re scared or anxious. If you think that’s the case, then you’ll have to address those causes specifically if you want the chewing to stop. Of course, if your dog is potentially harming himself by chewing dangerous substances, talk to your vet.

How to handle the behavior:

bFirst, remember that your dog cannot chew up your couch or sneak off to tear apart your favorite shoes if you’re supervising him or otherwise containing him. So go back to the basics and completely control his surroundings, even if he’s five years old. That’s paramount if you want to put an end to this problem. Also, understand that in many cases you actually shouldn’t prevent your dog from chewing, especially if he’s teething. Instead, the key is to teach him what he can chew on. Leave a variety of bones, antlers, and other durable and safe toys of various textures around the house. You may have to experiment a bit to find out what your dog likes. Assuming that you are supervising your dog, if you notice him wandering over to your shoe and gnawing on it, then do what it takes to get his attention on you. This might mean clapping your hands or getting super animated to distract him momentarily from the chewing. Avoid grabbing him or the shoe at this point, as you want him to originate restraint (remember, inside out!). Once you’ve got his attention, give him a sincere “Yes!” and a chew toy of comparable texture to satisfy him. We even have a brief play session with the toy. Now you’ve expressed two things to your dog: “I’ve got something that you’re allowed to chew on over here, and listening to me makes your life fun and interesting.” Next time, keep your shoes (or any other object your dog might destroy) out of reach. Lastly, make sure your dog is getting plenty of playtime with you. That way, maybe the next time he has some downtime, he’ll take a nap or just feel content instead of chewing apart every object he finds! Gimmicks such as sprays designed to deter chewing are an attempt to squelch the behavior instead of addressing the causes of head-on. Teach your dog to understand you and think for himself, not to just avoid the items because of a bad-tasting spray.

[luckydoogs]

Puppy Biting & How to handle it

Why dogs do this :

Puppy biting, also referred to as mouthing, is the number one thing I’m asked about. Even if you follow every bit of advice I’m about to give you, a puppy will still be a little biting machine for many weeks, starting at about eight weeks old. This is completely normal. Whereas puppies chew because they’re teething, they bite because they want to engage you but don’t understand that you don’t play that way. If your puppy did not get the benefit of being with his mother and siblings until at least eight weeks of age, you may need to do a bit more work to help him learn how to appropriately play and use his mouth when interacting with people and other dogs. “A puppy’s mother and littermates typically teach a puppy how to control his biting by letting him know when he is biting too hard or too much,” explains Dr. Herron. This is a concept known as “bite inhibition.”

How to handle the behavior:

Be one step ahead of your puppy. Since you know your puppy is likely to bite you when you interact with him at all, come armed with a small treat. Let your dog know you have a treat by letting him smell it and then ask him to “sit.” Reward him for the sit. This is the first step to showing him the behavior you want when you approach. As you see, we are not waiting for the biting to occur to then correct it. This method is much more powerful because the best time to address unwanted behaviors is before they occur—something you’ll become a lot better at detecting as you get to know your dog. Of course, you’ll have to do this consistently for several days to a few weeks until your dog starts to get that the right way to interact with you is by first sitting calmly, not attacking you with his little piranha-like mouth! What about when you go to pick him up and he starts chomping with those puppy teeth? Again, grab a treat and distract him from your flesh or clothes with it, but instead of immediately giving it to him, allow him to lick your fingers and the treat while you hold it firmly. When dogs are in “food mode,” their mouths become less about wanting to grab and play and more about tasting and eating. Any time your dog begins to lick where he would otherwise bite, you’re on the right track. Do your best to avoid just giving your dog the treat all at once; instead, do so little by little. Of course, there will still be times when your dog won’t be able to resist biting. The key in those cases is to teach your dog that it’s okay if he bites stuff, but only if he bites things you approve of, such as a rope toy or a stuffed animal. I do this by teaching a proper game of puppy tug-of-war in a dedicated training session. Here’s how: As you approach your puppy, knowing that he’s likely to bite, bring his attention to the toy and make it exciting. Move it around on the ground toward and away from your dog. If he pounces on it and tries to get it, you’ve got him right where you want him. Once he grabs it, pull back just enough to where he still feels like he has some control of the toy. Let him do this for several seconds. When you’ve decided you want him to let go, avoid prying it from his mouth. Instead, make the toy completely immobile as though it’s attached to a tree. Wait up to two minutes. When your puppy lets go (and he eventually will, as long as you act like you don’t care if he does), say “Yep, let go!” and promptly give the toy back, to remind him that playing by your rules results in a fun game he gets to play with you. You’ll likely notice very fast progress on this—in as little as one training session—and your puppy should soon be letting go when you ask within seconds instead of minutes. What do you do when you do get chomped on by your puppy? First, though I understand that this kind of pain can make any person instantly upset, it’s critical to keep your cool. Then you have three major options, depending on your desire or ability to train at that moment:

Play tug-of-war as I just outlined.

Get your treats and do a basic training session. The goal here is to say to your dog, “Okay, I’ll interact with you, but we need to do it on my terms.” 

If you can’t teach at that moment or if your dog is in such an energetic state that he’s unresponsive to training, say “No” in a monotone voice and put your dog in a puppy-proofed area for two to ten minutes. Many puppies will calm down and snap out of their biting mind-set after a brief time-out. If that doesn’t offer some relief, a long walk should.  

[luckydoogs]

How to train your dog to stop leash pulling

Why dogs do this:

Dogs pull on a leash because they walk faster than we do or because they’re very interested in sniffing and investigating something out of their reach. Plain and simple. Remember, many of the dogs who were bred for all-day stamina and endurance are the same ones we’re now asking to walk slowly on a leash next to us. Some were selectively bred to be good hunting dogs who would make a beeline, without hesitation, at full speed to retrieve the kill. I just want you to understand that when attempting to teach your dog this skill, you’re fighting the very same qualities humans purposely selected for over thousands of years! However, keep in mind that the ultimate trait we’ve selected for when creating dogs was their ability to take direction from people. This trumps all else. In other words, the good news is that dogs are primed to learn from humans, so with a little patience, yours will eventually understand the foreign concept of walking slowly.

How to handle the behavior:

First, take a few steps back and reprioritize leash training as I fully outlined on this page, chapter 6. Your dog may just need a refresher course, especially on the “leave it/watch me” combo, which needs to be solid for leash walking. Also, know that you are most likely not meeting your pet’s physical and mental needs before leash walking training. Dogs cannot absorb intricate concepts like walking extra slowly next to you until you can get their overflowing energy burned off first with a game of fetch or other activity. If you don’t do that, then know that you’ll have to be tolerant of the pulling until you’ve walked long enough for him to fatigue a bit. Along with their dog’s pulling on a leash, some of my clients ask about a concept called leash reactivity. That’s when your dog is on leash and barks and lunges at other dogs or people in a manner that can be perceived as threatening. This is different from a dog who barks excitedly or out of frustration because he wants to play. It’s a more stressful response. What’s interesting is that some dogs interact perfectly well with other dogs when off-leash but show such seemingly aggressive behavior while on a leash. “The restriction of the leash prevents their being able to approach and retreat freely, sometimes leading them to possibly feel trapped and to use reactive behavior to keep themselves safe,” explains Meghan Herron, DVM, DACVB, director of the Behavioral Medicine Clinic at The Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine. If your dog is experiencing leash reactivity, practice the leash walking with distractions steps that I outlined on this page, chapter 6, in less stimulating settings, perhaps in front of your house where you can easily get back home if need be. In some cases, severe leash reactivity may take a while to overcome and will require you to help your dog become desensitized to whatever is causing him to react.

[luckydoogs]

REWARDS: THE IMPORTANCE OF KNOWING YOUR DOG’S CURRENCY

Imagine if you were given a bonus at work whenever you did your job well. I’m sure most of you would say that that would give you extra incentive to always try your best.

Our dogs have their version of this. There are two primary types of currency or “money” for your dog: really good treats and, for many dogs, extra playtime. For something to qualify as an amazing currency, your dog must love it, not just like it. Keep in mind that affection doesn’t count as currency—our dogs should never be required to earn this, so dish out the love for free, as much as you’d like. For treats during primary training sessions, again, use tiny pieces of real chicken or other meat. The reward should be the size of a grain of rice for small dogs, and no larger than a pea for medium to large dogs. Trust me, it’s the quality of the treat, not the quantity, that counts because you want to have the option of rewarding over and over again without filling your dog up. Think of this tiny piece of meat as the equivalent of a $1 bill to your dog. What about commercial dog treats? They have their place too, and I suggest having several containers of soft dog treats throughout the house because there will be times when you need to burst into a spontaneous training session and you’ll need to have your dog’s currency handy. Think of these as equivalent to a quarter. Dog biscuits and even bits of kibble are equivalent to a penny. It’s fine to give them to your dog, but not when training. Remember, the currency you choose has to excite your dog. While great treats will work with most dogs, some moderate- to high energy dogs will excel if you reward a training success with a brief play activity, such as a five-second game of tug-of-war or one or two tosses of a ball. I stress this because it’s far too common for people to insist that their dog accept that treats be the reward, even as their dog, say, jumps on them and bites at the leash. These are sure signs that a dog is desperately trying to initiate play. If your dog is saying, “I want to do this,” then try to incorporate whatever that is into the reward. So in the case of biting on the leash during a walk, consider using a tug toy to bring the attention onto an acceptable currency instead. Also, remember to put away your dog’s favorite toys unless you are playing with them—that way your pet will be excited when you bring them out as a reward. If special toys like balls, Frisbees, and tug toys are just left out all the time, they’ll likely lose their potency. Do you have to reward with food or play forever? Not! However, for the first year of training, you want your dog to always wonder what she might win if she listens. And for the first sixteen weeks of training, I strongly encourage you to reward your dog liberally—the more you praise and “pay” her, the faster she’ll learn. After your dog has fully demonstrated that she understands a particular skill in the environment where you are teaching, you can tone down the rewards by following intermittent reinforcement, Rewarding your dog occasionally with no discernible pattern keeps her guessing—and listening. Use this psychology to your advantage! Regardless of the reward, you use—and you can certainly use both food and play if that works for your dog—always give her a lot of affection and show your appreciation. Don’t just be a robot when giving treats and engaging in playtime. Also, don’t pay lip service and get excited when your dog does something well only because that’s what you’re “supposed” to do. You must be genuinely encouraging. I remember when my dad taught me how to play baseball when I was a boy. He explained the game to me and told me to keep my eye on the ball and try and hit it when it approached. When I succeeded, he didn’t simply say “good” in a monotone voice; he was so excited that he came over, hugged me, and said he was so proud. It was his sincerity and positive energy that I was encouraged by, and I know that dogs are sophisticated enough to be encouraged in the same way. So what do you treat for? At first, find tiny reasons to reward your dog when introducing a new concept. Open up the bank account and let the money flow. Your dog doesn’t have to perfect skill to get a treat or playtime; even if she makes the slightest move in the right direction or does what you ask for a split second, reward her so she knows she’s on the right track. These little moments give you traction as you build communication. You may find yourself rewarding your dog dozens of times a day for such small successes, and that’s fine. As I mentioned earlier, that’s why you should give a minuscule bit of a treat, nothing big. It’s her tastebuds you’re trying to please, not her stomach.

[luckydoogs]

THE FIVE BASIC RULES OF HOUSETRAINING

Here are the steps you’ll need for housetraining success.

1. Controlling Environment

One fact that helps with housetraining is that dogs instinctively don’t like to soil their living area—though, as I’ll explain in this section, their idea of a “living area” may be different from yours. This is why a crate can play a key role in housetraining—because it’s a comfortable, safe place where your dog can relax and sleep, he’s not going to want to have accidents in it. (There may be exceptions to this in the first two weeks or so.) It’s where your pet will spend time—in addition to other smallish areas such as a bathroom or puppy playpen—when you can’t supervise him. You also need to gradually, slowly, and separately teach your dog that other parts of the house are also his living space and, in turn, off-limits for going potty. Initially, your dog won’t understand this. It’s as though he’ll think, “Well, I won’t go in my crate, but my mother’s closet looks perfectly fine. I never really spend any time there at all!” Start small: for instance, limit your dog’s territory to just the kitchen for a short period. Then slowly move on to another part of the house. I typically recommend doing this with your dog on a leash, though if you’re 100 percent focused on your dog you can take the leash off. By paying close attention, you’ll likely be able to catch those subtle clues that he’s about to go and quickly whisk him outside. Letting him roam off-leash in the living room while you keep one eye on him and one on your Facebook newsfeed just isn’t what you want to be doing here. As your dog spends time in each new environment and gets acclimated to it, he’ll start realizing that the entire house is his home and not a good choice for going potty. This is a months-long process, one that you shouldn’t try to rush. If you notice that your dog is having a lot of accidents, that’s a cue to take a step back and refocus on smaller living space and more frequent potty breaks. Also, if your dog seems to favor various floor textures for going potty, such as carpet or tile, then that’s because he’s had too many opportunities to do so and has likely developed a preference for them. Prioritize getting him outside more often to encourage a preference for grass! If crate training is not for you for any reason, then consider alternative ways to contain your dogs, such as a playpen, baby gates, or a puppy-proofed room like a bathroom or laundry room. Again, the key is to completely control your dog’s environment—if you tether him to you or keep him in his crate or another sectioned-off area any time you can’t actively supervise him, then he can’t sneak off and go potty in the bedroom.

2. The Importance of Routine

Dogs thrive on a consistent schedule. Plus, keeping a routine is a crucial element to housetraining because it helps you know when your dog will likely have to go out. That starts with feeding your dog at around the same time every day and removing his bowl between meals. Dogs typically will have to go potty about fifteen to twenty minutes after eating. Also, make sure you remove your dog’s water dish two hours before bedtime during housetraining. How often should your dog go outside during the housetraining phase? Very often! In general, one-month-old dogs can hold it in for one hour, two month-olds for two hours, and so on. However, regardless of your puppy or dog’s age, you shouldn’t expect him to hold it in longer than three or four hours while he’s housetraining. If you work outside of the house all day, either come home periodically during the day to walk your dog, make arrangements for someone else to do this, or consider doggy daycare. Paper training is also an option if you want to do that long term—more on that later in this chapter. At the very least, walk your dog first thing in the morning, right after he wakes up from a nap, ten to twenty minutes after eating or drinking, after playtime, and right before bedtime. With a puppy, you will also likely need to get up in the middle of the night once or twice to let him out for that first week or two. When you walk your dog outside, never leave him unsupervised. You need to be there to praise him and reward him for doing his business outside. When I housetrain dogs, I will generally say something like, “Do you want to go potty?” before I let them out. I then let them out in the yard, on a leash, so that I can guide them to a specific area and remain very quiet. Don’t be surprised if your dog checks out the yard and sniffs around or tries to play for a few minutes first. This is normal. It’s best to wait it out and ignore your dog’s efforts to play. (However, this applies to potty breaks only! In other areas of training, it’s very helpful if your dog wants to play and engage with you.) Spend a good ten minutes out there with your dog if necessary. Ten minutes can seem like thirty, so adjust your expectations. If your dog goes potty, say “Yes!” and then after a one-second pause say “Go potty!” as he is finishing up. Be very deliberate and purposeful in your tone, as though you are teaching a new phrase to a young child. No need to be loud or say this a dozen times. Once it is just fine. Then promptly follow the phrase up with a reward and genuine encouragement right there outside (more on rewards in the next section). If your dog doesn’t go potty after ten minutes, then bring him back into the house and put him in the crate or other small contained environment he likely views as his living area, or keep him tethered to you. Try taking him out again ten to fifteen minutes later, or sooner if you see signs that he has to go, such as circling and sniffing the ground. This may sound like a lot of work, but trust me—the more committed you are too frequent bathroom breaks initially, the sooner your dog will get the hang of housetraining.

3. The Power of Rewards

Creating positive associations with housetraining is very important so that your dog will want to go potty outside. In other words, give your dog a special reward to look forward to after he uses the proper spot. I’m not saying you have to do this every day for the rest of his life—just during housetraining. Such rewards come in two major forms: food or play. For food, treats that your dog loves will work well. Again, a small piece of real meat like boiled chicken gets a dog’s attention. Another option: if your dog is very playful, you can instead encourage a five- to thirty-second play session immediately after he goes potty. A play session can be defined as anything that your dog enjoys, like chasing you around, playing tug-of-war, or a game of fetch. The idea here is to have fun! No matter which reward you choose, while you are waiting for your dog to go potty, stay boring and hide any toys or treats. After he goes, then reward him and praise him lavishly. Just pretend like you’ve won the lottery every time he is successful outside, and he’ll start realizing that he just did something that resulted in life getting way more interesting. For a more sensitive or nervous dog, you may want to tone down the excitement a bit. Otherwise, lay it on thick! Bottom line: Your goal is to teach your dog that going potty outside unlocks the most fun version of you—plus a special surprise! This may take several days to a few weeks for your dog to understand. Once he does, you can bet that housetraining will become a lot easier.

4. Handling Accidents

You should never punish your dog for having a potty accident. Doing that is like punishing an infant for going in his diaper. Old-school training encouraged pushing a dog’s face into his mess or even hitting him with a newspaper—I can’t think of a quicker way to not only compromise your dog’s trust but also greatly delay his progress. As I’ve been emphasizing, if you want the best results, focus on what you like instead of what you don’t like. When you catch your dog in the act of going in the house, interrupt him immediately by distracting him with a high-pitched voice or by clapping your hands and take him outside to finish up. Then reward him heavily for doing so in the right spot. If you don’t catch him in the act, scolding him after the fact is counterproductive. Instead, just clean up the mess and make sure you’re supervising your dog as much as possible to prevent future accidents. Remember, your dog is not to blame here. The only thing to blame is the lack of a controlled environment or your consistency.

5. Cleaning Up

When your dog has an accident in the house, do your best to eliminate odors; if you don’t, your dog will be drawn to those spots over and over again. Dogs like to go potty where they and other dogs have done so before. Even though you may not be able to see or smell a stain after you clean it up, your dog can detect it with his extremely sensitive sense of smell. Look for an enzyme-based odor neutralizer that breaks down the scent. You can find such products at pet supply stores, online, and in some grocery stores. Do not use ammonia, vinegar, detergents, or other similar chemicals. They aren’t effective, and they also may attract your dog back to the spot.

[luckydoogs]

8 COMMON MYTHS IN DOG TRAINING

Before I delve into the training methods that work, first I’ll shed some light on commonly held misconceptions about dogs to make sure we’re starting on the same page:

Myth #1: Dogs are domesticated wolves, so you need to establish yourself as pack leader. 

Truth: Have you ever heard that the surefire way to be a good dog trainer is to be the “alpha”? I did, years before I became a dog trainer, and even I thought it sounded reasonable at the time: dogs descended from wolves, and wolves supposedly live in hierarchal packs, so it made sense. There’s little to no truth behind this idea. No one is arguing that dogs aren’t descendants of ancient wolves—they certainly are. However, dogs are not wolves, but unique animals predisposed to learn very advanced concepts from human beings. We likely first selectively bred today’s domestic dogs at least fifteen thousand years ago to cohabitate with us, provide companionship, and perform certain tasks such as hunting, herding, or alerting us when a stranger is near. To ignore the human influence in the domestic dog reflects a failure to acknowledge why the modern dog even exists at all. Yet many mainstream dog trainers seem to completely disregard this central point in favor of using methods that undermine the intelligence of our dogs. Also, these trainers are basing their philosophy on an archaic understanding of wolf behavior that has been discredited by researchers who study wolves extensively.  In the 1940s, animal behaviorist Rudolph Schenkel found that when wolves are forced into captivity, they fight for top status or what he referred to as the “alpha.” For decades, this concept reigned in the dog training world, and one of the world’s leading wolf experts, L. David Mech, discussed it extensively in his popular 1970 book. However, thirty years later Mech himself completely refuted the “alpha” wolf concept, so much so that he has pleaded with his publisher to stop printing that previous book. He had found, through his extensive research, that the dog training industry was basing their teachings on a highly artificial situation. Yes, when wolves are randomly placed in confinement together, they do fight for resources; however, that happens only when these animals are in a very unnatural environment. “Wolves in the wild—the wolves that our dogs descended from—get to the top of their pack merely by maturing, mating, and producing offspring,” says Mech. “Leadership roles are simply parental roles. The pack is a family social structure, a lot like human families.”

Myth #2: Domination is the only way to get a dog to listen to you.

Truth: Real teaching is about communication, not domination. Our goal when teaching a dog should be not to make a dog do something by forcing her into submission but to make a dog want to do something. Trying to dominate your dog by yelling at her, flipping her on her back in an “alpha roll,” or using certain collars designed to create discomfort or pain will only greatly hinder both your relationship with your pet and the training process. I know this can be confusing because many well-known trainers promote such dominant techniques. However, what we are really communicating to a dog when we rely on these tools is: “If you do something I don’t like— even if it’s something that comes naturally to you, like walking fast or chasing a squirrel—I’m going to make you uncomfortable.” Such training focuses on teaching what a dog shouldn’t do rather than what she should do. Can these methods be effective? If your definition of “effective” is getting mediocre results, then yes, to some extent they can be. I suppose if I thought I’d experience something unpleasant every time I walked a bit too fast, I’d obey too. But there’s a price to pay for this: your training will not be as effective and enjoyable as it could be for both you and your dog, and such tactics could even undermine your dog’s trust. Furthermore, your dog will not behave consistently when you take those special collars off or don’t use forceful methods. When you rely on an external device to get what you want, it’s simply a crude patch designed to combat the unwanted behavior rather than to emphasize good behavior. And when that patch isn’t there, dogs know the difference and often go right back to the unwanted behavior. It’s as though they think, “Oh, I’m not wearing that unpleasant collar now, so I can do whatever I want.” Some people might argue that while positive training is okay for some breeds, other breeds need forceful, punishment-based training because they are aggressive, powerful dogs. Let me respond to that. First, while some dogs may be more challenging or have aggression issues, that’s definitely not specific to breed. As I explained in chapter 1, the whole idea that certain breeds such as Pit Bulls have violent tendencies is completely false—when you hear stories of such dogs attacking other animals or people, it’s usually because either they have been trained to do so by a human or they have more serious underlying issues. Of course, if you have a larger dog, it’s particularly important to make sure she doesn’t lunge on the leash or jump up on people simply because she can cause more harm than, say, a Yorkie, due to her size. But that applies to any larger dog—from a German Shepherd to a Goldendoodle—and has absolutely nothing to do with breed. Positive training works with virtually any dog. In fact, if you do have a dog with aggression issues, studies have shown that using forceful methods will likely make the behaviors worse. For instance, one study in the Journal of Applied Animal Behavior found that confrontational methods such as striking dogs, intimidating them, alpha rolls, and staring them down often led to an aggressive response. “In almost all cases, dogs are aggressive because they are afraid and feel threatened in some way,” explains Meghan Herron, DVM, DACVB, lead author of the study and director of the Behavioral Medicine Clinic at The Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine. “When you use confrontational methods, you are just making yourself more threatening and increasing your dog’s motivation to use aggression against you. It’s like fighting fire with fire.” What about the dogs who do seem to reduce their aggressive behaviors in the face of these methods? “Sometimes people can scare their dogs enough that the animals achieve a state of learned helplessness—they just sit and take it, even though they’re exhibiting signs of panic such as an increased heart rate and panting,” Dr. Herron explains. “Some of these dogs eventually lose this inhibition and their aggression comes back much worse than before, as though they’ve snapped. And for those who don’t, they remain shut down and often live in a state of perpetual fear.” I’d hope that anyone who thinks this is acceptable would strongly reconsider the way they approach teaching dogs.

Myth #3: Only puppies can learn new things. 

Truth: Apparently this line of thinking has been around a long time: In 1534, an Englishman named John Fitzherbert wrote in The Boke of Husbandry, “The dog must learn it when he is a whelp, or else it will not be: for it is hard to make an old dog stop.”Today’s translation: “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks.” I know that clichés often have a good bit of truth to them, but that’s definitely not the case with this one. I have worked with thousands of dogs, and I can attest that you can most certainly teach dogs of all ages just about anything. More than half the dogs I’ve worked with in my career were adult dogs, not puppies. I even had a dog in one of my basic training classes who was fourteen years old—he did wonderfully and passed with flying colors. And to this day, I enjoy teaching new concepts to my own dogs, who are all in double digits now. In fact, I recently taught Alpha Centauri to run outside, pick up a package from my front yard, and bring it back into the house. He doesn’t mind the rain as I do! Bottom line: Dogs simply love to learn at all ages, and you should always continue teaching them new tricks and concepts to keep them mentally stimulated. No offense to Mr. Fitzherbert, but don’t buy into this old idea for a second!

Myth #4: Positive training means never disciplining your dog. 

Truth: Just because you’re not forcing your dog into submission doesn’t mean you’re going to let her walk all over you. Positive training does include consequences for unwanted behaviors, but it’s very different from the aggressive methods of traditional trainers. I have no problem with communicating that you do not like something your dog does. If you catch your dog getting into the garbage, telling her “No, don’t do that” in a calm tone, and then removing access to the trash is very logical to me. Or, in the case of jumping on guests, removal from the environment for a few minutes in a good time-out can be very effective, too. The problem comes when you start saying “No!” a lot more often than you say “Yes.” If this is the case, then you are reacting to your dog’s actions rather than taking the appropriate initiative to teach her how you’d like her to behave. The goal is to show your dog the behaviors you do like so the emphasis is more on the positive. So after you remove the garbage and get your dog to sit and focus her attention on you, then reward the positive behavior. Follow through and go that extra mile! When you learn to snap into training mode and follow through like this, you’ll start to see a dramatic acceleration in your results. Do I physically correct a dog from time to time? You bet I do, but only in rare circumstances. Here are the criteria I apply when putting my hands on a dog or forcing her to do something: Would I correct a three-year-old child in the manner I’m about to correct this dog? If not, then I don’t do it. Here’s an example: Let’s suppose I’m standing on a street corner with my dog on a leash sitting next to me. Suddenly, there’s a distraction across the street and my dog attempts to run into the street toward it. I certainly will restrain my dog and walk away from the distraction abruptly, in the same way, that I would grab a child’s hand and pull her away from something that put her in harm’s way. By definition, this is physical correction. However, I limit physical corrections to when I’m preventing my dog from potentially being injured or causing harm to another being. Keep in mind, however, that a correction like the one I just described is a far cry from a restrictive, aggressive pop with a metal collar around a dog’s throat. There’s really no comparison. Lastly, keep in mind that even the physical correction I just described is not ideal. As you’ll learn throughout this book, when you effectively prepare your dog for certain situations, then for the most part no physical correction will ever be necessary.

Myth #5: Once you use treats, your dog will never listen without them.

Truth: You can wean off treats. However, people often expect that once their dog has demonstrated she understands a particular concept or trick with a treat, she should immediately start doing it without one all the time. That usually doesn’t work. If your dog refuses to do something without a treat, this likely means you have attempted to cut treats out of the equation too early and your dog doesn’t get it yet. Your dog will certainly learn to listen without treats, but you’ll probably need to use them longer than you intuitively might think, possibly up to six months after she first learns a behavior. However, I’m talking about your dog knowing a skill completely. For her to do that, she’ll need a lot of repetition and have to practice under various circumstances. For instance, say your dog sits for you when you are home alone even if you don’t give her a treat; however, when you take her to a park where there are lots of distractions, she doesn’t. That’s because dogs don’t generalize well. The single biggest thing you can do to throw your dog off is to change her environment or other variables. When you do, you’ll need to reteach her that skill or trick in the new environment. Using a lot of treats or other rewards with sincere encouragement simply motivates your dog to do the behavior under a variety of circumstances those first several months, which is more important than insisting she does it without a treat right away. Also, once you think your dog knows a skill completely, don’t just cut out the treats cold turkey. Instead, I recommend following the principle of intermittent reinforcement. You might notice that after first teaching your dog something new, a time when you should reward heavily, that you might be able to get a “free one” without treating. That’s because you are keeping your dog guessing—dogs excel when you randomly reward, and the goal is to make sure yours can’t decipher a pattern—so you avoid a pattern by mixing it up. Perhaps give a treat for a particular behavior, then skip the treat the next two times your dog does it, and then treat three times in a row. People may argue that using treats is bribery, but I promise you it’s not. Remember, one of the most important elements of my training program is learning how to communicate with your dog, and treats will help you do just that. They are a catalyst that helps keep your pet’s attention on you and encourages her by letting her know she’s on the right track. On top of that, researchers who have studied dogs’ brains found that while food does motivate dogs, they are also greatly influenced by social interactions with humans.5 I couldn’t agree more! While you still need the treats at first to ingrain the particular behavior you’re looking for, combining that with lots of love and genuine sincerity will only encourage your dog further. So my goal isn’t to get my dogs to sit when I ask them only because they might get a treat. I want them sitting because they are listening to me, respecting me, enjoying my attention, and trusting that I have their best interests at heart.

Myth #6: Behaviors such as jumping indicate that your dog is trying to control you.

Truth: This one gets me! Your dog is not attempting to initiate a coup when she jumps on you after you return from work. Look at her body language. Her ears are probably pinned back, her tail is wagging, and if she could talk, she’d probably say, “I missed you so much! Let’s go do stuff together!” I call this enthusiasm and joy, and I’m not sure how this is so commonly confused with dog-to-human dominance. When dogs exhibit behaviors such as tugging on the leash or jumping on guests, it’s not because they are trying to assert dominance as part of their overall strategy aimed at achieving a higher status in the family. Also, doing things such as letting your dog through the doorway first, allowing her on your bed, and feeding her before you eat is certainly not going to make her think she’s now in control. These are ideas based purely on myths. So what are behaviors such as excessive jumping or leash lunging all about? I know that when dogs act out it almost always has to do with a lack of the kind of exercise that engages both the mind and body, like fetch or other dog sports. Here’s an example: I once worked with a dog named Lafitte, a very energetic dog who had the unusual habit of, well, lunging at and attacking full-size trees. Lafitte is no small dog, either, and when he did this it was a sight to see. I know that many trainers would simply say that Lafitte is a dominant dog, slap a choke chain on him, and yank away until he was defeated and exhausted. However, I figured Lafitte was a dog with a lot of pent-up energy who didn’t have a regular outlet to release it. While his primary person, Rachel, certainly tried, it was hard to keep up with his demanding needs all of the time. Lafitte didn’t care about achieving dominance; he just wanted to do something, anything! Even if it meant that the best way to release some energy was to use the closest tree as a toy. Sure enough, after spending some time with him, in a single training session I was able to teach Lafitte the concept of not attacking trees. Rachel also started playing with him on a more regular basis and has reported that his behavior has improved greatly. I elaborate on the specific issue of leash pulling, on this page, chapter 7, but the bigger point here is that I taught Lafitte without trying to dominate him or cause him discomfort. I simply took the time to first understand why he was behaving in a certain way and then took steps to preempt that behavior by communicating in a way that encouraged him to listen to me.

Myth #7: Dogs can’t understand that much, so speak in very simple terms.

Truth: This is one of my biggest pet peeves. Most trainers advise you to keep your phrasing very simple and limit your requests to one word at a time. They say that dogs can’t understand all that much, so the fewer words you use with your dog, the better. There’s certainly validity to this when introducing a brand-new concept like “sit,” but there’s nothing wrong with evolving your language after the first few weeks of basic training. Saying “Sit down please,” “Have a seat,” or whatever else you want to say to your dog can help broaden her vocabulary. I love being able to interact with my dogs by using everyday speech. Several studies have clearly shown that dogs can have a huge vocabulary, comparable to a toddler’s. Stanley Coren, PhD, a leading expert in canine intelligence and author of How to Speak Dog: Mastering the Art of HumanDog Communication, among other titles, has found that the average dog can learn at least 165 words. Highly intelligent dogs can learn 250 words, or even considerably more. One Border Collie named Chaser holds the current known record, at more than one thousand words, and she most certainly understands some sentences and grammatical semantics.6 I know she’s an outlier, but her story shows that dogs are a lot more capable than most people think they are. I can verify that dogs can understand simple sentences, provided you speak this way often. That’s not to say that you shouldn’t use one-word requests such as “sit” and “stay.” But you don’t have to always limit your phrases to one word at a time. You also don’t have to worry that you are going to confuse your dog—they understand slight nuances in language and context just as we do. My dogs very clearly know the difference between “let go” and “let’s go.” Also, years ago when I used to perform with my dogs in stunt dog shows, I would say “Down please” to tell them to get off a platform they were standing on. This did not confuse them when I’d later ask them to lie down by saying, yet again, “Down please.” There’s also no need to dumb down your grammar. If your dog is barking, for instance, you can abandon phrases such as “No bark!” Instead, use proper grammar by saying “Stop barking please,” and teach your dog your language as you would teach a young child. Feel free to speak in a way that comes naturally. You’ll be shocked by what your dog can understand.

Myth #8: You can teach your dog only one thing at a time. 

Truth: Dogs are remarkably intelligent and capable of “walking and chewing gum at the same time.” Just like humans, your dog can process many concepts simultaneously. Of course, I’m not saying to go crazy here and expect your dog to master ten tricks or skills in one day. There’s a fine line between covering multiple concepts and confusing your dog. You’ll have to find that line with your dog, but a general rule of thumb is between two and four simple tasks at a time. As for me, I like to introduce the concepts of “sit,” “down,” “up,” and “stand” in the same training session with most dogs That’s four things! You are not only encouraging your dog to multitask mentally, which is great exercise for her brain, but also planting the seeds for more intermediate or advanced skills down the road that require more than one step. Most importantly, don’t think you have to completely perfect a concept before moving on to the next one. Many people assume they need to, say, master housetraining before they move on to basic training, as though it’s sequential. Again, I want to make sure that this is not your mind-set. While you’re housetraining your dog, you should work on other basic skills. Dogs want to work with humans, and by encouraging your dog to learn lots of things, you’re only speeding up her success.

[luckydoogs]

SHOPPING LIST: WHAT TO BUY FOR YOUR NEW DOG

By stocking up on some essentials before your dog arrives, you’ll help make sure she stays healthy and happy as she eases into her new home. Here are some essentials you’ll want to get (other than paper towels, of course!):

Dog Crate

The biggest mistake new pet parents sometimes make is not sufficiently controlling the environment of their new dog. A dog crate can be a convenient way to help you do just that for short periods. Most dogs love it, provided you introduce it correctly, and make the crate an enjoyable place to be. Crates not only provide dogs with a sense of safety but also help keep them secure when you’re out of the house or too occupied to watch them. Another bonus: Dogs don’t like to soil where they sleep, so crates help greatly with housetraining. Durable plastic crates are easy to clean and perfect for traveling. Wire crates are another option—they offer more ventilation and a full view, and you can cover them with a towel at night to create a cozier atmosphere. Look for a crate that is easy to open and close and large enough that your dog can stand up and turn around in it easily. If your crate is much larger than that, a dog may initially soil one end but not the other until she realizes that her whole crate is her bedroom. (Just keep in mind that when it comes to the size of a crate, too big is always better than too small.) You might also consider getting an oversized crate with an adjustable divider panel so that you can slowly expand the room your dog has as she grows and also begins to understand that she shouldn’t do her business in the crate.

Baby Gate and Puppy Playpen

A gate and a playpen can come in handy and assist you with the supervision process. A gate prevents your dog from entering rooms you don’t want her to go into, while a playpen allows her to run around and play in a confined area. Gates are also essential for blocking staircases—dogs can fall downstairs and wind up with serious injuries. Keep one up until your dog is at least six months old and can navigate the stairs on her own. A gate and a playpen are also great options if you don’t want to use a crate for any reason. When choosing a gate, find durable one and made of a material other than wood. Make sure no openings on the gate are large enough for the dog to stick her head through—she can wind up getting stuck or strangled. As for a playpen, make sure it is sturdy and that your dog can’t chew through it or climb out of it.

Bowls

Your dog will need at least one bowl for food and one for water. Get a few extras so that you can wash them every day and easily swap out a dirty water bowl with a clean one. Stainless steel is your best bet because it’s durable and won’t chip. Heavy ceramic is another option, but make sure it doesn’t contain lead, which can be toxic to your dog. Avoid anything with dyes, and stay away from plastic if possible—some dogs are allergic to it. Others like to chew on the plastic, and such bowls can splinter off into tiny pieces that your dog might swallow. Also, if you have a dog with long ears, such as hounds and spaniels, look for bowls that are specially tapered so her ears don’t get wet or dirty while she eats.

Food

  Find out what your dog has been eating at the place where you found her and buy a small bag of that food. Suddenly switching from one food to another can cause diarrhea (just what you need with a dog who isn’t housetrained yet!).

Identification

  If your dog were to run away and get lost, an ID tag that hooks onto your dog’s collar can be the key to reuniting with her. It’s up to you what the tag says; at least include your phone number so if someone finds your dog, they can contact you. Some people opt to also include their name, address, their dog’s name, and other identifying details.

A Collar or Harness

Your dog will need a collar right away to hold her ID tag and eventually her rabies tag. At first, just pick up a simple adjustable nylon or leather collar that buckles together. (Save the receipt in case it doesn’t fit.) It shouldn’t be too tight, but it also shouldn’t be so loose that it’ll slip right off—you should be able to slip only two fingers under the collar. Take the collar off when your dog is in her crate—she may scratch at it until she gets used to it, and her foot could get stuck in it. The collar itself can also get stuck on the crate, creating a choking risk. While a collar is essential for your dog’s ID tags, a harness is also great for most dogs for general control, safety, and training—especially for puppies eight months and younger, small breeds, those with short noses such as Pugs and Boxers, and dogs with thin necks such as Greyhounds. Choose one that’s easy to get on and off. Another consideration: If your dog is a very young puppy or a tiny breed such as a Yorkie or a Maltese, you might want to put a small bell on her collar so people can hear when she’s approaching and avoid stepping on her.

Leashes

  You’ll need a leash not only to walk your dog but possibly also to keep her tethered to you during training. For the initial leash, choose one that’s four to six feet long. I suggest nylon because they are the least expensive, you can tie them to a belt loop, and they are the easiest to wash, though leather and rope are fine, too. Retractable leashes are another option some people like, particularly to give their dogs some room to roam and sniff around while also maintaining control of their environment. However, when taking your dog on proper walks or in public, refrain from using a retractable leash until she’s well trained. You’ll also need a longer lead leash—twenty to thirty feet—for training. 

Grooming Tools

 It’s your responsibility to keep your dog clean, but which tools you’ll need depends on her breed or combination of breeds and whether or not you plan to hire a groomer or do it yourself. At first, at least make sure you have a good bristle brush to keep your dog’s coat tangle-free. Pick up shampoo, nail trimmers, cotton balls, an ear cleaner, a toothbrush, and toothpaste. For more information on grooming supplies.

Toys

Bouncy balls, stuffed plush elephants, flying discs, and tug toys—the dog toys available on the market these days would give Toys“R” Us a run for its money. Don’t go overboard—buy a few different types and see what your dog’s preferences are. Choose toys that are durable, size-appropriate, and a little bigger than you think you need; for instance, choose a ball that will fit in your dog’s mouth but one she can’t swallow. Many dogs, especially puppies, have a strong urge to chew—stick with hard rubber toys that help her satisfy this need. Also, if you notice your pet tearing her squeaky rabbit to shreds or eating the plastic eyes off of it, or a toy rope starts to fray, then remove it immediately. If your dog is an aggressive chewer, choose toys that are “indestructible,” “ultra-durable,” or something similar. 

Chemical Deodorizer

  When you’re housetraining, your dog is going to have accidents in the house. It’s a normal part of the process. Of course, you’re going to clean up any mess right away, but your dog’s keen sense of smell will detect the urine or feces odor for a long time even when you can’t. This, in turn, can lead her to continue marking the same spot repeatedly, as at first dogs are likely to go to the same spot or two to do their business. To remove the odor, clean the soiled spot with an enzyme-based chemical deodorizer you can find in pet supply stores or some grocery stores.

Poop Bags or Scooper

Many areas require by law that people pick up their dog’s poop. And even if your city or neighborhood doesn’t, do it anyway—leaving a mess on the street is not only unneighborly, it’s also dangerous: it can cause the spread of parasites, and the feces can wash into local water sources and contaminate it. Stock up on plastic bags or pick up some waste bags at your pet supply store along with a dispenser that attaches to your dog’s leash. After your dog goes potty, put the bag over your hand, grab the poop, and then turn the bag inside out and tie it closed; when you get home, dispose of it in your trash. Another option: a pooper-scooper, a device designed to pick up dog poop, handy for cleaning up your yard.

Treats

Treats can be an essential training tool or just a nice way to give your dog a little something special. I recommend having two main types of treats for training. The first is high-quality soft dog treats (commonly known as “training treats”) that you can store at room temperature and easy access to reward your dog spontaneously when she does something you like. However, for primary training sessions, you’ll want to get your dog excited and motivated for training, so the key is to choose a treat that she loves. I always include tiny pieces of boiled chicken or other real meat as the treat. Yes, I’m talking about the same stuff we humans eat! In general, make sure training treats are low in fat and sodium and made in America. Also, while I don’t advise over-treating your dog with low-quality commercial dog treats “just because,” the occasional traditional dog biscuit is fine. Don’t feed your pet jerky treats: since 2007, the Food and Drug Administration has received thousands of reports of pets becoming sick or even dying after eating jerky treats.1 Most of these treats were made in China, but not all treat packaging indicates where they were made. Just avoid them. Make it a general rule to avoid any pet food or treats from China for the time being.

Bones and Rawhides 

You’ll likely want to have at least a bone or two on hand to help satisfy your dog’s chewing urge, which is particularly strong for puppies as their teeth come in. Think big: always choose a bone that your dog can’t possibly choke on. If you want to give your dog rawhides, buy the ones that are compressed and don’t have a twist on the end (dogs can unwind these, which can lead to a choking hazard). Once your dog has consumed half the rawhide, replace it, and if you notice that your dog is going through rawhides very quickly, find something else for her to chew. Another favorite option: 100 percent naturally shed deer antlers, which last an extremely long time, clean teeth, and don’t stain, splinter, or chip. Other hard bones that don’t splinter may be good options, too.

Bedding 

You’ll have dozens of dog beds to choose from, if and when you decide to purchase one for your pet—everything from your basic donut beds to luxury couches, orthopedic cushions, and even heated beds. But don’t invest in a pricey bed right off the bat; wait until your dog is done housetraining. Also, during their first several months or even longer, many dogs (even some adult dogs) will chew up their new bed. In the meantime, you can make your dog’s crate extra cozy with a simple mat or old blankets or towels (as long as she doesn’t chew them).

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HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST DOG FOR YOU

Once you determine that you’re ready for a dog and capable of caring for one, then it’s time to narrow down your choices. While some people know exactly what kind of dog they want and where to find him, others have no clue. Either way, I’ll walk you through the most important issues to consider.

Puppy or Adult Dog?

at this stage of his life. For starters, you’re in a position to teach your pet from day one. You can prevent habits you don’t like from emerging in the first place, and you can take measures to prevent your dog from having socialization issues later on in life. Of course, there’s also something magical about caring for another living being from a very young age. However, keep in mind that puppies are a lot of work, and the time commitment is huge. A puppy is brand-new to this world and knows nothing of human culture and expectations. Puppies don’t come housetrained, and you have to walk them very often. They haven’t yet learned that they’re not supposed to play bite. Plus, you have to constantly monitor their every move—puppies are extremely curious and often love to chew everything in sight, so if you let your guard down they can damage your home or, worse, get hurt. In short, you’ll need to be extra tolerant and patient for some time. What are the advantages of adopting an adult dog? They don’t play bite as much, and housetraining is a little less difficult simply because their bladders are more developed and they can “hold it” longer. Some dogs may even come fully housetrained and know basic requests such as “sit” and “stay.” Older dogs typically cost less to acquire, too. Also, keep in mind that some of the best dogs in the world are those who have spent years in rescue shelters waiting for the perfect home. However, there may be some disadvantages: Many older dogs may not have been socialized properly as puppies, which can make them less confident in certain situations. For example, many dogs fear men simply because they weren’t exposed to them at a young age. Bad habits like destructive chewing, jumping on people, and pulling on a leash are likely more established, which means it may take a little more effort to put a stop to them. Weigh the pros and cons of having a puppy versus an older dog and remember not to underestimate the commitment a young puppy requires. However, if you have the time and patience to dedicate to a dog regardless of his age, then either can be a perfect addition to your family.

Does Size Matter?

Some people want only a dog they can tote around in their purse; others believe that bigger is better. I’ve worked with dogs of all shapes and sizes, and I’ve learned that size has absolutely nothing to do with the personality of a dog. However, it’s something you should consider. Here’s what you need to know:

Large dogs may require more room to exercise. This is a generalization, but it’s often true.

Smaller dogs tend to have longer life spans. For instance, a Chihuahua can live eighteen years, whereas a Bernese Mountain Dog’s life expectancy is a mere six to nine years. A study published in the American Naturalist found that for every 4.4-pound increase in weight, life expectancy dropped by one month. Of course, many variables will affect a dog’s life span; size is just one of them.

The larger the dog, the higher the costs for his basic care. While a small breed might eat about a half cup of kibble daily, a large one can go through ten times that. Grooming, toys, and other expenses can cost more, too.

Smaller dogs are more portable. You can more easily pick them up and take them in the car or on errands. Also, on most commercial airlines, you can bring a small dog on board as a carry-on as long as he fits in a travel case under the seat in front of you.

Large dogs can ward off strangers. A Bullmastiff sitting in your front window is going to scare off potential burglars more than a Maltese might, simply because of his appearance. (Though a small dog who’s attentive and likes to bark can also make for an excellent watchdog.)

Small dogs are easier to control. I’m not saying that it’s easier to train a small dog. However, when a ten-pound dog jumps up or lunges on his leash, it’s quite different from handling an eighty-pound dog with the same behavioral issues. Think about whether you have the strength to control a bigger dog.

Mixed Breed or Purebred ?

People often fixate on a particular breed, but I’ve got to say that many of the friendliest, smartest, most capable dogs I’ve ever worked with were mixed breeds. These dogs, often found in shelters, are typical results of random or unintentional breeding, and they tend to cost much less than purebred dogs. (We’re not talking about “designer dogs” here. I’ll get to that in a second.) On the flip side, it’s understandable that many people want a particular breed. Maybe they adore Pugs because they grew up with them or German Shepherds because they make them feel safe. Also, there’s the obvious advantage: with a purebred, you can safely estimate the future size, grooming needs, and appearance of your dog. With a mixed breed puppy, you can take a guess, but you might be surprised when the dog you thought was nonshedding and destined to top out at ten pounds winds up leaving hair all over the house and weighing so much you can’t lift him. Many experts argue that mixed breeds are healthier because of what’s known as hybrid vigor: by combining two different breeds, you are pooling from a larger range of traits, so the dog will less likely carry one of the genetic conditions common in certain breeds. However, a large study in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association found that the prevalence of certain genetic disorders among purebreds versus mixed breeds greatly depends on the specific health condition.4 Bottom line: I can’t recommend one type of dog over another—for every great mixed breed, there’s an equally amazing purebred. And more research needs to be done on this topic before we definitively know whether one is healthier than the other. Just rest assured that with so many choices, you are sure to find a loving, well-behaved companion.

DESIGNER DOGS

You might wonder about “designer dogs” such as Cockapoos and Morkies. These dogs are mixed breeds with a twist—they’re the result of intentional breeding of two purebreds to create a new breed that theoretically combines the best traits of both parents. For instance, a Cockapoo is a cross between a Cocker Spaniel and a Poodle, while a Morkie is a cross between a Maltese and a Yorkie. These puppies sometimes have a much heftier price tag than purebreds. The popularity of these dogs has dramatically increased since the late 1980s when an Australian breeder named Wally Conron set out to create a nonshedding Seeing Eye dog. He crossed a Labrador Retriever with a Poodle and voilà: the Labradoodle was invented, and a new trend in the dog world was launched. Some experts claim these dogs are healthier because of hybrid vigor, though no studies have proven that. However, keep in mind a lot of these designer dogs come from puppy mills and backyard breeders who are looking to make a quick buck and have no concern for the puppy’s health or temperament. In fact, according to an article in Psychology Today, Conron himself said, “I opened a Pandora’s box, that’s what I did. I released a Frankenstein. So many people are just breeding for the money. So many of these dogs have physical problems, and a lot of them are just crazy.”5 I’m not saying you should avoid these dogs. Just don’t believe all the hype. Designer dogs aren’t that different from the mixes you see at a shelter. Regardless of any benefits, their sellers claim, you still won’t know exactly what you’re going to wind up with, as temperament, appearance, and coat can vary greatly from one dog to another. Many dogs bred not to shed actually do.

CHOOSING A BREED

If you choose a purebred dog over a mutt, then your next step will be to pick a particular breed. I can’t stress enough how dangerous it can be to focus too much on the breed. People choose breeds based on stereotypes and are very often disappointed when their dog doesn’t behave as he’s “supposed to.” However, almost no individual dog will meet all of the characteristics defined by a breed description. Trust me: you simply cannot reliably assign attributes to your individual dog based on his breed. I’ve known lots of retrievers who don’t retrieve, tiny Yorkies who excel at competitive Frisbee, hyper Basset Hounds, and Border Collies who were terrified of the sheep they were bred to herd. I’m not saying to ignore breed altogether. Of course, there are characteristics of certain breeds that remain true: things like shedding and size are not going to vary widely, so these generalizations are more accurate. Also, if you’re picking out a dog, it’s still a good idea to get a wide-angle view of what certain breeds were bred to do, and if you need a dog to, say, herd cattle, then you should probably stick with a herding breed. When I first got into competitive Frisbee competitions, I purposely chose a Border Collie because I knew they are often high-energy dogs with relentless focus and physical stamina. In my dog Venus’s case, she fit the stereotype in those respects, and we won many competitions. However, I know plenty of other Border Collies who wouldn’t have been suited for the competitions at all. In sum, it’s fine to use breed stereotypes in a very preliminary way to get traction on the decision-making process as long as you understand that these are tentative guidelines, not absolute truths. Just as every human within a certain race, religion, or culture is different, the same concept applies to dogs: You need to get to know the individual.