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Amazin’ lack of contrasts, agenda and accreditation.

Greek shipping heir Stavros Niarchos III strolling through a Swiss resort town. Dream of somewhat snowy streets, not the orange-white striped packaging of a Giorgio Beverly Hills powerhouse scent. Marvel at the drab ton-sur-ton we continue to advocate for. The offwhite beige-ish scarf - paired with an outfit so unassuming Armani critics in the 80s would call it boring - is something more people should think about. I have one - one not two - and it - one, not two, not three - still puzzles me. 

[question] Does owning more than one of a thing make you more insightful about said thing or more stupid?

I am gonna (ab)use the remaining audience of this blog by subjecting it to lame creations in open source image manipulation programs, blogposts in Rmarkdown format so I gradually learn some new skills and you endure stages of autodidactery posted to an outdated form of internet journalling.

[statement] Honour dilettantism, reject credentialism. 

If you feel like the supervisor trapped in a make-shift adult evening education program reviewing homework that does not fit the parameters of the assignment, that is because you are. You are here to uphold the illusion that the content produced somehow matters. A forgiving and soft blank canvas for interlocuteurs to project their narcissistic presumptions on, like an off white piece of draped woolen fabric at chest height. Strategic application of clothing in the modern, very barren  spiritual climate of the striving upper middle class, sartorial machiavellists should approve. 

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Yuppie tuig

yup(pie) (← Eng.; acron. van young urban professional), jonge carrièremaker die snel veel geld verdient en dit spendeert aan dure, trendy spullen. Zo iemand is urbaan of stedelijk, hij of zij is upwardly mobile oftewel ambitieus, en verder ook professioneel: in het bezit van een hogere opleiding en een mooie baan. De schaarse vrije tijd benut de yuppie door zich te omringen met dure goederen en diensten. Fitness en gezondheid zijn erg belangrijk. De oorspronkelijke benaming was eigenlijk yumpie (young upwardly mobile professional), maar de m werd al snel weggelaten. Overigens verschenen er talrijke varianten op de naam: guppie (gay upwardly mobile professional), buppie (black upwardly mobile professional), puppy(poor urban professional), moby (mommy older, baby younger), dink(y)* enz. Sinds het begin van de jaren tachtig. Bij ons pas rond 1985 ingeburgerd geraakt. Er zijn allerlei samenstellingen en afleidingen: zie de hierna volgende lemma’s.

Yuppies zijn inderdaad meer op de stad georiënteerd, maar blijken ondanks hun betere inkomen minder mobiel te zijn dan de gewone man. (De Volkskrant, 25/10/86)

Onomwonden verklaarde Rubin zichzelf tot yuppie: ‘young’ want gezond, ‘urban’ want behorend tot de stedelijke voorhoede, ‘professional’ want actief en competent. (Haagse Post, 15/08/87)

Ondervoeding is het gevolg, waardoor de baby’s achterblijven in hun ontwikkeling. ‘We kennen nog niet de precieze omvang van dit probleem,’ zegt dr. Lifshitz, ‘maar het schijnt vooral voor te komen onder gezondheidsbewuste ouders uit de hogere inkomensklasse, de zogenoemde ‘yuppies’ (Young Urban Professionals). (Kijk, maart 1988)

Zijn naam is Jan van Lierde en als hij een tweerijer droeg met een zijden pochet, zou hij een Yuppie zijn. (Avenue, oktober 1988) 

In de jaren 70 en 80 mocht je blij zijn als je lief kon zijn voor jezelf. Yup worden dus. Of vader van een yup. (Mens en Wetenschap, januari 1989)

Kerst mag dan een yuppenfeest zijn, zoals Nicolaas Matsier ooit schreef, het feest van de niet-dichtende managers, van de mensen met te veel geld en te weinig tijd, het zal best, maar de krasse knar past inmiddels blijkbaar makkelijker in dat profiel dan de yup. (HP/De Tijd, 06/12/97)

M. De Coster (1999), Woordenboek van Neologismen

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Benenwagen

Jourdan 1979

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Dirty grandpa knitwear

Before social media, blogs and forums full of #menswear autists there were paper magazines and the odd style book. Most of these books were pretty much the same and covered a basic overview of what ‘classic’ style was supposed to be, and how ‘a gentleman’ ought to look. Each author presented their 'canon’ of classics and rules how to combine and wear these classics. In mainland Europe Bernhard Roetzel’s 1999 Der Gentleman was the most popular of these tombs in the early-internet days. A book that could be crudely summarized as English style from a German perspective. And it retained its status for quite some time. Even as 'required reading’ on online clothing forums that started developing their own canons on what garments constituted 'classic style’ in the 2000s. Almost 20 years onwards from the early 2000s it is remarkable to see how under the radar Naples was.

Canon is a word that is mostly used these days by people who write and read fanfiction about corporatized, trademarked and franchised intellectual properties owned by movie studios. In (popular) fiction, canon is the material accepted as officially part of the story in the fictional universe of that story. As opposed to literal fanfiction and figurative fanfiction in the form of  'extended universe’ silliness. You don’t see it used anymore with regards to its original use, namely in the study of the humanities and classic literature. That is probably because the post-modernist agitators that currently occupy those fields are bent of destroying and 'deconstructing’ any type of overarching grand narrative in the name of radical inclusion and social justice. (It is only a matter of time before these types usurp #menswear as well.)

But back to Roetzel’s late 90s canon of menswear, because he included the colourful Missoni cardigan, a yuppie status symbol for the weekend in the 1970s and 80s, into his canon of classic menswear alongside the immortal cliches you are all familiar with: Gucci loafers, Burberry trenchcoats,  etc. etc. etc. Missoni, for those who are unfamiliar, is a knitwear brand founded by former Olympic track and field athlete Ottavio Missoni (seen above) and his wife in 1953 and is known for its distinctive patterns, colour combinations and steep prices. The Missioni man’s look was one of roomy sweater or cardigan paired with full cut cotton trousers or relaxed corduroy. Although Roetzel did note that the Italian cardigan’s status was somewhat contested he did include it. However you do not see them around in the circles of classic menswear fashionistos. 

Whenever the infamous iGents discuss big, warm and clunky sweaters, it is always some sort of sweater that hails from the British Isles and the North Sea region: Irish (aran and fairisle) and Scottish knitwear, French Breton sweaters, North Sea sweaters (old British and Dutch ganseys, as well as more modern half zip 'schipperstrui’) and occasionally a Norwegian sweater (preppy staple and Ralph loves them). You all seen those at one point. No love for Italian knitwear… how come? There are plenty Italian knitwear brands, but most do luxurious derivative designs based on aforementioned anglo classics. Do Missoni knitwear patterns fail the Lindy test? The Lindy test states that the life expectancy of an idea or non-perishable item increases the longer it is around (the exact opposite holds for organic life). But Fred Perry and Lacoste tennis shirts, that are about the same age as leisure wear staples… and created by former athletes as well… did make it. As did bitloafers (since 1953) by Gucci and Ferragamo. 

Or is the ‘classic’ selection criterium simply that which was worn by English Sloanes, American preppies and Continental BCBG in 2nd half of the 20th century? Could it be that depressingly simple?

Pictures: the late Ottavio Missoni photographed for the 2011 and 2012 FW Missioni collection. In less loud, more rustic patterned cardigan vests, that are still recognizably Missoni. 

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Overjas

~ een jas die je over je andere kleren draagt. 

Uit GQ, jaren 70, min of meer wat Tom Ford nu verkoopt aan paljassen.

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Photodump II. Back to School, the 2nd semester.

A public secret is that the vast majority of bloggers write about stuff that has been done to death. What’s even worse is that the text isn’t even that good. Most people only watch the pictures. By that token I am gonna stop writing and have you look at pictures of mid-century students who wore tailored sack jackets and OCBD shirts the same way, and with the same mindset as students wear hoodies today. That is what truely owning your clothes is all about. From the life archives:

Yale student protest by John Leongard.

Bowdoin College, 1952, by Peter Stackpole.

Japanese youths, 1964, by Michael Rougier.

University Of Maryland. vs. Navy (Lacrosse), April 1952 by Mark Kauffman and Hank Walker.

University Of Virginia Graduation, June 1947 by Martha Holmes.

Last Days Of A Senior Yale University by Alfrd Eisenstaedt, 1957.

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Questions old jackets would ask you if they could talk.

Baldcell here probably got this jacket when he still had hair (some, not much, but still) on his dome. Which triggered so many questions for me....How old is your oldest tailored garment? Did you forget you still had it? Does it still fit? Would you still wear it? Is your jacket telling you you buy too much and too frequent? Does it tell you you are fat? Does it tell you that you don't really have taste, but just follow #menswear trends? Does it tell you good or bad things? Do you even like your old clothes? 

Pircure: some dude in an American sportscoat in Martha’s Vineyard, photographed by Alfred Eisenstaedt. This is how old clothes should look by the way.

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Who is ready for bulletproof vests as the new spring/summer outerwear? After down vests, fleece vests and other sorts of ‘gilets’ - could we finally see Helmut Lang’s late 90s vision for menswear become a business dress reality?

Return of Bremerchic

How to wear the military trend in 2017

Khaki is king as the military trend makes its ultimate come-back for summer. Reinterpreted and with a fresh, new on-trend face, prepare to conquer the city in style this season.

From vogue.fr

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Knowing what time it is.

When you search Jared Kushner’s name in Google News, you find about 2.5 million hits, US president Trump’s son-in-law and confidante. A rising star in the new administration beleaguered by claims of nepotism and neocon infiltration in the Trumpian populist White House. However none on the usual men’s fashion websites/magazines has featured him and focused on his urbane, understated and modern sense of dress. Both business and casual. Something that nicely showcases how politicized and polarized things are at the moment. 

Also only one mentions - in passing- that Kushner is a Swatch guy. Will Kushner be the man to make reverse snobbery and the (new) Cold War big in 2017?

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Riot gear

Now that legendary styleforum.net habitué and style writer Michael Anton has revealed himself to be the nationalist flight 93 author and has officially hopped on the Trump train, maybe he can suggest security professionals wear more approriate CBD shoes with navy suits. You know, something like an elegant black English oxford with a practical dainite or commando sole… I am sure (m)anton would agree on this. That should elevate the above scene (’the patriarchy strikes again via rear naked choke ft. mike pence’) from good to better. When this stuff is bound to keep happening as protests everywhere seem to get wilder its important to get the details right. 

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A return to form. 

Well, most of you degenerate textile consumers will have read that Lapo has  maybe-definitely returned to taking his self prescribed medicine, with all the consequences that this entails. I will take this occasion to express my heartfelt desire to see him return to the classic II&IS inspired style of #vintage-lapo. So here some vintage Lapo from 2003. Make Lapo’s Style Great Again. Excess and debauchery with a facade of restraint and classic taste are more fun than the other way around. 

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Never grow up. Part 1. Back to school, the late registration edition

Posting images from the Life Image Archives was already old when Google Images put the archive online in the late 00s. However most blogger types focused on dead celebrities, maybe it was me not paying attention but there never was much attention for the series on overpriviledged Anglo Saxon white kids at their fancy school. Perhaps on the faux preppy blogs, the Trad(itional) and Ivy League blogs, but I don’t pay too much attention to these blogs. 

What I find interesting about these pictures is the sense of nonchalance when it comes to dressing ‘formally’ (read: coat and tie). I assume most of my readership is familiar with the Take Ivy book(s) from the 60s where you could see the same relaxed attitude to the type of elitist clothes we focus on here. In Take Ivy most depicted students already moved on from wearing coat and tie to class. That was overly formal and stuffy already even back then. Here we see a glimpse of the decade before Take Ivy, when students still sorta-kinda were required to make an effort to dress formally. It should inspire you to attempt to wear your suits, coat and tie ensembles as if you were wearing jeans and a hoodie. [Insert endlessly reposted cliche about wearing clothes instead of having them wear you here].

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Winchester college, United Kingdom, 1951, by Cornell Capa.

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Hotchkiss School, Lakeville, CT, USA, 1954, by Allan Grant. 

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Le Rosey School, Gstaad, Switzerland, by Carlo Bavagnoli :

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Magdalen College, Oxford, United Kingdom, 1939, by William Vandivert

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Yale Rumpus, 1950s by Yale Joel

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Beschaving en herfstkleuren.

Alle ware beschaving uit zich in tact, bescheidenheid en beperking en niet in datgene wat voor geld te koop is. Het is het ‘teveel’ op alle gebied dat iemand onmiddellijk stempelt tot onbeschaafd: Een te luide stem, het gebruik van te sterke krachtwoorden, te opvallende (opzichtige) kleeding of huisraad, overdreven belangstelling, opgedrongen hulp of weldaden, te groote (kwetsende) openhartigheid enz. enz. Alle overdaad getuigt van gebrek aan beschaving: Overdreven gastvrijheid, overdreven beleefdheid, of onderdanigheid, overdreven gulheid getuigen niet vóór maar tegen iemands welopgevoedheid. De werkelijk beschaafde plaatst zichzelf niet op den voorgrond, voert niet den hoogsten toon, spreekt weinig of niet over zichzelf. Voor echte beschaving geldt: In de beperking toont zich de meester.

Als beschaving understatement is, of onopvallendheid zo-u-wilt, dan is Jziovannie Anjellie het toppunt. Zeg ik niet, dat impliceert de denkwijze van mevrouw Groskamp-Ten Have. Aanschouw hoe de ouwe Agnelli een wordt met de omgeving, één of andere kamer in La Malcontenta. Een zee van aardekleuren en beiges. Het zou een natte droom van Giorgio Armani kunnen zijn. Aardig om op te merken is ook dat dit textiele toppunt van terughoudendheid wordt gecreëerd niet met soepel en licht kamgaren maar met ruwe informele stoffen. Zie hoe de zompige corduroy broek op de suede bergschoenen valt, met subtiele glanseffecten die enkel een medium tot fijne rib kan produceren. De gemêleerde shetland trui over een ordinair wit OCBD hempie, met een ontketende Brooks Brothers button down boord onder een grove glencheck tweed in neutrale kleuren. De macht van ton-sur-ton is groot, en probeer deze niet te misbruiken.

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Dress in 90 seconds.

Let’s go. Hurry up. Schnell, schnell! Let’s get a move on. C’mon. What are you waiting for? Chop-chop. Speed, efficacy and efficiency differentiate the expert dresser from the neophyte. Only the poor unemployed degenerate and the seasoned carefree freeloading dandy have time for an extensive morning toilet ritual. You are not the latter. Sadly, nor am I. So speed it up. 

And make sure you watch this video at work with others around, so they can ask you why you are watching a middle aged, skinny-fat man get dressed. 

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Yo listen up here's a story About a little guy that lives in a navy blue world And all day and all night and everything he sees Is just navy blue like him inside and outside Navy blue his house with a navy blue little window And a navy blue Corvette And everything is navy blue for him and himself And everybody around 'Cause he ain't got nobody to listen to I'm navy blue da ba dee da ba die... I have a navy blue house with a navy blue window. Navy blue is the colour of all that I wear. Navy blue are the streets and all the trees are too. I have a girlfriend and she is so navy blue. Navy blue are the people here that walk around, Navy blue like my Corvette, it's in and outside. Navy blue are the words I say and what I think. Navy blue are the feelings that live inside me. I'm navy blue da ba dee da ba die... I'm navy blue da ba dee da ba die... I'm navy blue (da ba dee da ba die)

Words by Eiffel 65, pictures of Remo Ruffini via zimbio.