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Nepal 2020 - Kathmandu

The adventure comes to an end....

Day 11 Kathmandu  - 18 Mar

So – our last morning in Nepal, and it seems like the first sleep-in opportunity in – forever! We had a late breakfast, then spent the rest of the morning sorting our packing, and showering, in preparation for our flight home.

Once we checked out of the hotel, we used the time searching for last-minute souvenirs for ourselves and others. We walked in to the local supermarket, and found – TOILET PAPER!! Apparently there’s a massive shortage back home, as for some weird reason, with a respiratory virus running rampant, people have decided to hoard toilet paper?! THAT, I can’t understand! Anyway, we explained this to the check-out girl, who found it greatly amusing. I can just picture Customs back home “Have you anything to declare?” “Yes – toilet paper souvenirs for the family!”

We decided to make good on our host of the previous evenings’ request, and returned there for a late lunch. Delicious springs rolls this time, and when the bill came, we weren’t charged for the second round of coffee/Coke. “Because you are my guests, and came back because I asked you to” was his response when we checked the cost. I can’t believe how sweet some people are.

So – that’s about it. It’s been an amazing roller-coaster of emotions on this adventure. Exhilaration, sadness, laughter, jubilation – the list goes on. But I can say that Nepal has been surprising – I wasn’t expecting this place to be so eye-opening, jaw-dropping and heart-warming. The people are truly beautiful, accepting us easily and leaving me quite humbled to have been allowed to witness, and participate, in their everyday lives. Thank you Nepal, for all you have shown me – I will treasure our holiday here, and the people, always.

[motherofadamsfamily]

Nepal 2020 - Pharping

Day 10 - Pharping/Kathmandu

To leave them broke my heart....

Day 10 Kathmandu (again) - 17 Mar

Up at dawn again this morning, but this time it’s so we can observe the Buddhist monks as they go through their daily morning spiritual rituals. We made our way with our monk escort inside the decadently decorated temple, only to find that the adult monks are not in residence, and it’s more of a teaching session with the young boy trainees.  I was a little disappointed at first, but decided that these ‘mini monks’ were just too cute, and cheered up considerably. During the ‘chant’, they had a little natter between themselves, giggled, gazed around distractedly, while the ‘teacher’ studiously ignored them doing so, instead concentrating on the zealous few who participated. Just like a regular day at school, if you ask me. Gomez chuckled that it was more of a ‘mutter’ than a ‘chant’, given the few who joined in. But it gave us an idea of the process of the Monk life – that is, until the final chant was droned – then it was like “school’s out!” as the mini monks made for the door helter-skelter .. I doubt the monks proper would have made QUITE a dash to the door for breakfast!

We took a little longer to leave, enjoying the intricate paintings and decorations throughout the temple. Most paintings were edged in gilt, and I would have loved if one of the monks could have hung around to explain some of the depictions of their deities – there was one of two skeletons dancing? For when they celebrate Halloween, perhaps?  There was also a framed photo of the Dalai Lama – he has such a serene, benevolent face, you can’t help but love him, I think.

We again took our breakfast in relative solitude, and had a lazy morning strolling the grounds while we waited for Kishor to collect us. He and Dip drove us to a local home, which served as an orphanage. The husband and wife (and her mother) have taken in children from the surrounding area that have been either left orphans or the parents can’t afford to pay for their upbringing (mainly in the country areas) They don’t receive assistance from the government – Kishor makes regular donations through his business, and if ever tourists ask him about visiting a school or orphanage, he recommends this one first.

The kids were adorable – they either spoke very little, or no English, but their enthusiasm was overwhelming. They peered eagerly in to my bag of ‘goodies’, and as each item came out, they would yell out what it was excitedly in Nepali – which I would say in English, then they would repeat it. I brought out a “Where’s Wally?” book, and explained the concept to them. I thought this would keep them going for ages, trying to find that damned red and white stripe shirt, but the cheeky wretches found him almost straight away every page!

One girl, older than the rest, seemed to act as a sort of supervisor over the other kids, making sure they minded their manners, no pushing etc. Kishor explained she was 15, her name was Sarita, and she had only been with the family for about 3 weeks, coming in from an outlying village for schooling. I pulled out a simple hardcover book, which the children yelled “diary” (it wasn’t, it was simply a blank notebook I had bought and had never used at home) I said that if it was a diary, then it should go to a 15-year old girl who could write her thoughts in it, and handed it to Sarita. She was gobsmacked – she accepted the book shyly, then hugged it to herself. She allowed the other kids to look at it, but watched them like a hawk to make sure the book was returned. On chatting with her, I was told that she would like to study to become a Social Worker in Nepal, and I wished her good luck whole-heartedly.

I gave each child a small amount of crackling candy, and laughed at their expressions as the lolly popped and fizzed in their mouths. Even the Grandma, who couldn’t come downstairs due to her ‘bad knees’ was given some. She didn’t crack a smile, but when she had finished her serve, she tilted her head back, mouth wide open, for some more!! It was so funny. I went upstairs to her at her request, and she hugged me, tiny little thing that she is – uh oh – getting teary!

I pulled out a bottle of ‘bubbles’, and the kids laughed delightedly, chasing each bubble around. The balloons were a hit also. I blew one up, then pulled the neck of the balloon while letting out the air, creating a ‘farting’ sound. I would gasp in shock and look at one little boy, asking “was that you?” A simple game, but they thought it was hysterical. It certainly makes you realize just how much we take for granted in ‘First World’ countries, and how the simple things in life can give so much joy.

All too soon it was time to leave. It was quite emotional, as it’s so easy to become attached to these pure, unassuming souls who simply want to be loved. The mother asked Kishor to translate, and gave a heartfelt speech of thanks for our generous donations, to help them with the children. I was very humbled, as I looked and thought it was really very little by our standards. I nearly lost it when Sarita came to me and asked “will you come back?” I promised we would try. She then held my hand and said “Don’t forget me” and I had to go. I would bring her home with me in a snap, if given the opportunity. Kishor explained later that these kids cannot be adopted, as it’s not a formal orphanage. Rather, as they grow up and leave, they send a small percentage of their wages back to the mother, to assist her in the upkeep of the place.

We farewelled Dip on arrival at our Kathmandu Hotel. He is from Pokhara, and now has a few days free to be with his family. I had given him a pack of Tim Tams for the family and told him of the coffee/Tim Tam combination (when you suck the coffee through the biscuit) He promised laughingly that he would try this on his return home – if his 7 year old daughter left him any! Kishor stayed a little longer, advising that a driver would come for us tomorrow night for our flight, but that we would only have the room until 1 pm. No problem – last minute shopping it is!!

We wandered down the streets again, looking for a cheap ‘n’ cheerful place to eat. Found a tiny place down an alley, where a husband and wife ran a small shop between them. We had a delicious buffalo soup and grilled momo’s (they’re normally steamed) all the while chatting with the husband, who advised us their son was living in Chippendale while he goes to Sydney University! On leaving, he asked us to come back tomorrow. “We leave tomorrow” was our response. “So come before!” he replied good-naturedly.

Men riding tuk-tuk style bicycles are one of the forms of transport here, and we had often been approached, asking if we wanted a lift. Tonight, we were about 50 metres from our hotel when an elderly gent cycled up beside me, and asked if we wanted a bike. I pointed to our hotel and said “see that? That’s where we’re going” He didn’t bat an eye, but responded with “OK - $2!” to which we both cracked up laughing at his audacity, as he cycled away. As I said, I love this place!

[motherofadamsfamily]

Day 10 - Pharping/Kathmandu extras extras

[motherofadamsfamily]

Nepal 2020

Day 9 - Pharping

On the road again.....

Day 9 Pharping - 16 Mar

So – I forgot to write yesterday about a bit of fun I had with our hotel waiter, Arjun, at breakfast. Small in stature, with big, black rimmed glasses, he has taken us under his wing, and is quite concerned about my limp. (yes, my foot still hurts) Yesterday morning he was watching over us as we ate breakfast, assuring us “don’t rush, Som will wait” in regard to our jungle safari. I had just spread my toast with the obligatory Vegemite that I now travel with, after pining for it on other travels. He watched inquisitively, so I explained that this was the spread of choice on the morning toast in Australia, and offered him a piece. I warned it was salty, and only spread a thin layer on the bread. He initially said “no”, and only agreed after I claimed it would only be fair, after all the Nepalese food we had sampled. Oh, his face – the smallest nibble, and he froze. “You don’t like it, do you?” I asked. “No” he replied, smiling. Well, he may have been blunt, but at least he was polite in his rejection! “We like sweet in Nepal” he said at the time.

So, this morning, I sat at ‘our’ table and beckoned him over. “OK” I said “at least you tried the Vegemite yesterday, so here are some Australian treats I think you WILL like” and handed over a small bag of Twisties. I explained it’s like their Marsala crisps, which are spicy, but these were a cheesy version. I then held up a Caramello Koala – he leaned over, peering at it closely “aah – dairy milk!” he exclaimed happily, and took both treats. The global recognition of chocolate is a wonderful thing!

This morning we are undertaking another canoe cruise, further up the Rapati River, with some other travelers. I was given pride of place at the front of the canoe, given the wobble I create as I try to hobble along – they don’t want me capsizing the boat! The silence was absolute – well, apart from the incessant chatter of the Swedish backpackers further back in the canoe. I silently cursed them for spoiling this peace, but eventually they quietened- hopefully realizing that the silence of this place is really something quite special. We spied some stunning-coloured kingfishers along the bank, which Gomez has decided is his favourite bird here. They are iridescent blue on their wings, and are gorgeous to watch in flight. Also along the banks are those broad mouth crocs I mentioned earlier. Thankfully though, they look well-fed and lazy in the morning sunshine. We glided soundlessly over the water, that mirrored the overhead foliage perfectly in its’ stillness.

On our return, it was time, yet again, to take our leave. We farewelled the staff and Arjun, and snoozed our way back to Kathmandu while Dip drove. For what was originally unknown reason we collected Mark, and he travelled with us to Pharping, where we will spend the evening at a monastery hotel. Later, I thought it was probably so he could collect a ‘tip’ for his services at the beginning of our holiday – but we had nothing on us at the time. We DO have money, and small gifts for everyone, it’s just that they choose the weirdest times to leave us, and we’re not prepared. Once arriving at the hotel, we found out that we are the only guests. Apparently due to the Corona virus, which is now rated a pandemic, the monastery has closed its’ doors to guests. But I think they accepted us, only due to the fact we had booked so long ago, and have been told that we are the last guests to be here, for the forseeable future. We were sitting in reception, when Kishor arrived. He is the local travel agent I have been dealing with online during the booking process, and the only reason we hadn’t met him as yet, was that he was in Germany on business. Sooo-not ALL Nepali are hard done by!! He’s a lovely guy though, and very pleased to finally meet us. He was most concerned that we had been enjoying our trip, which we assured him that all guides, and Dip, had most certainly been looking after our welfare most admirably.

They left us to the eery silence of the hotel. We had a couple of hours of ‘down time’ – reading the phone updates on the Corona virus, posting Facebook photos etc, then we head down for dinner at the agreed time of 7.30pm. As expected, the dining room was empty, but they sat us at a long table, fit for about a dozen people. We make jokes about and early ‘self-isolation’ (which is what we are now required by law to do once we return to Australia), while we ate yet another serving of Dhal Baht (love it though).

After dinner we head to the hotel rooftop, and checked out the view of Kathmandu by starlight below. This part of town is set high in the hills, and is very quiet in comparison to the endless car- and motorbike lights below.

A quiet night, overall. It’s definitely ‘wind-down’ time, preparing ourselves for the homeward journey. I think all this talk about the virus, and the shutting down of country borders, has me a little rattled, and I just want to be home with my loved ones (before any more flights get cancelled)

[motherofadamsfamily]

Day 9 - Chitwan / Pharping extras

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Nepal 2020 - Chitwan

Day 8 Chitwan 15 Mar

Leopards and Rhinos and Bears - Oh My!!!

Today was massive – we drove in and through the Chitwan jungle for roughly 11 hours! Som picked us up at 7.30, and we proceeded to the lake for our canoe transfer to the other side of the river, where our jeep safari would begin.

A misty morning stillness hung over the lake, as we were silently paddled over the glassy surface of the water. Gomez and I remained seated in the narrow canoe, while Som showed off by balancing on the bow. It only took a couple of minutes, and we were greeted on the other side by our safari driver, Babu. Settled in to our seats at the rear of the open-top jeep, and we were off. This is different to our African safaris – the jungle here is like dense bush scrub, overgrown with a tangle of vines and lantana, whereas Africa was largely on the open savannahs. I also don’t think we would have ever had an open-top jeep in Africa (that’s a separate blog to come!)– hungry lions would have put paid to that!

As we trundled along, we saw many deer, antlers blending in to the surrounding bush, peeking nervously through the trees, only to gallop away as we approached. Male peacocks abounded, performing their mating ritual ‘dance’ for their prospective partner. Sadly, many ‘invitations’ were declined – we grinned at the stunned looks on the faces of the males, after strutting around confidently, fanning their plumage to the peahen, only to have her turn away in disinterest. Babu stopped the jeep under a particular gnarled tree – we didn’t understand why at first, until he pointed among the leaves. ‘Black face monkeys’ Som informed us. Sure enough, cheeky faces peered down at us, as they swung from limb to limb through the branches, in search of the perfect berry. We watched in delight, but they made it hard to get a photo as they leapt overhead.

We spied numerous termite mounds, about 2-3 feet high. Som proudly shared his knowledge - yes, they were amazingly intricate formations of natural housing, but I didn’t have the heart to tell him how large our termite mounds grow back home!

Apparently there has been a fair amount of rain lately, as the tracks were extremely muddy. The jeep squelched through these tyre-track puddles with ease. Until, that is, we spotted a leopard on a track to the left of us, about 50 metres away. Som told us that there was less chance of spotting a leopard than a tiger, so we shared his excitement as Babu turned the jeep and made to follow. You guessed it – in his haste, Babu got bogged in one of these swampy puddles, and at one stage we thought we would be stuck there indefinitely as the jeep failed to find traction. The leopard was startled (obviously!), took a look at us, and disappeared into the bush. Dammit! We missed a perfect photo opportunity, but I’ll always have the memory of that moment, and the exhilaration of the rare find.

We stopped for a picnic lunch beside a marshy mangrove, where we were assured a rhino was resting in the water. Sure enough, as we sat to eat, we could hear him ‘blowing bubbles’ in the water below. Whether from his mouth, or somewhere else, I’m not sure! We chatted in hushed tones as we ate, along with other safari groups, and watched as distant rhinos wandered down to the opposite river bank, drank, and returned to the shadows of the jungle. But ‘our fellow’ refused to stir. Som told us to be patient, and that he would ‘wake him up’ once the other parties had left. Sure enough, once we were on our own, he clapped his hands loudly, making barking sounds all the while. Success! But not for long – the rhino jumped up in surprise at the sound, looked at us, shook his head at the interruption, turned around and plopped back into the water. He was so comical, we couldn’t help but laugh.

Gomez had fun snapping shots of a wild boar that wandered near to our picnic spot. He actually came very close to Gomez, but was unconcerned with the proximity – I would say because of the ruddy great tusks that protruded from either side of his snout! He trotted away snuffling for more jungle treats, and I could only think how lucky we were – not only to have seen him, but to have him show no interest in us whatsoever!

We bounced and jostled in the jeep over the rutted tracks for a long while, unable to discover anything new. But it was so wonderful just to be out and about in this glorious weather, feeling like Sir David Attenborough, on the prowl for our next great find.

We visited the jungle crocodile conservation centre. Though it was closed for maintenance, they were quite happy to let us stroll around, viewing the various stages of crocodile growth. There are two types of croc here - the Gharial, which has a very long, very narrow snout, and can only shuffle slowly along on its’ belly, which makes it relatively harmless to humans. Sadly, the snouts of the Gharial are so long and brittle, they appear to snap quite easily (the lower jaw in particular), by the appearances of the ones we saw. Maybe that’s why they live here – they’re unable to fend for themselves in the wild?

The other is the broad snout croc, which is like ours back home, can move at speed both in and out of the water, and it’s not fussy about what it eats. OK – so we don’t necessarily want to come close up to one of THOSE during our safari!

Given the shadows were starting to lengthen, Babu decided it was time to head back to the park entrance. We’ve had to show our permits to rangers more than once, to prove we weren’t there to cause any harm to the animals, and Som informed us that we were meant to be out by 6pm. Uh-oh – it was already nearly 5 o’clock!

We hustled along at a fair pace, keen to exit the park. Gomez glanced to the left upon reaching an opening in the foliage, and yelled “Stop!” To the side of us, a rhino was quite happily wallowing in the waters of a small pool. He ducked his head intermittently, munching on the weeds growing at the bottom of the pool, rolling along in his search. It was wonderful to see one at such close range, but we couldn’t spend too long enjoying the spectacle, as we had a deadline.

Babu increased the speed once we departed the rhino, and we bounced around in the back seat, the now-cool air starting to bite at our faces. Again – a sudden stop, this time at Babu’s command. He pointed silently to the roadside to our immediate left, where we could hear snorting and scratching in the undergrowth. We peered closely and spied black fur amongst the greenery. A few moments later, a small black bear ambled out on to the road behind us! Oh, wow! He was gorgeous – he gazed at us curiously, decided we obviously meant no harm, and waddled on his way.

By this stage, it was past 6 pm, and Babu was flying along the track. We turned and watched as the suns’ last rays fell across the jungle landscape – another beautiful sunset. We finally made it back to the riverbank in the dusky gloom, to be greeted by another wild boar! I wasn’t going to get out of the jeep, but Som rooted around in our food sack and found some scraps, and threw them to the boar. “Quick” he called, and, while the boar was distracted, I hobbled as fast as my little legs could carry me to the waiting canoe. Apparently Som and Babu are in a bit of trouble, as it was 6.30pm by this stage, and our hotel manager had been calling the rangers to ask where we were. Som very cheekily made up a story about us being delayed due to being bogged (well –that was SORT of true, only much earlier in the day!), and we were paddled at haste back across the river.

We thought that we had only just made it back to the hotel in time for dinner, only to find that two plates had been made up for us, waiting for our return. What a bunch of sweeties! We ate, and as we walked back to our room, I noticed the mural at the top of the staircase. My gosh – true to his word, the artist had succeeded in completing his work! Well done, I must say!

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Day 8 Chitwan extras

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Nepal - Chitwan

Day 7 - Chitwan 14 March

Scenery, serenity, and stick dancing!

I’m sitting on the porch at our hotel, taking in a multitude of sounds. A very late rising rooster crows (it’s 3pm), distant traffic rumbles by, a baby in the house next to the hotel cries, locals sit and chat about the serious business of nothing at all, and birds chirrup and twitter in the surrounding trees. All the while a gentle breeze blows, and I’m struck by a feeling of absolute peace. Moments like these can be rare, and I’m determined to appreciate every second.

We had a long trip here from Pokhara, with the usual brightly coloured trucks and hair-raising moments. We enjoyed our lunch break at a hillside café overlooking the river we rafted on, just a couple of days ago, though it seems like an age. So much has happened since then – it’s an amazing adventure we’re on.

On climbing the stairs to our room, we passed the local artist, in the process of painting a mural of the local village life on the wall at the top of the stairs. It’s about half done, but I am assured by him that it will be completed by tomorrow. Really?! Well, we’ll just wait and see…

Our local guide here is Som, who escorted us on a jungle stroll. We didn’t see too much – some peacocks, small crocodiles on the other side of the river, a few varieties of birdlife – but he also explained the medicinal and nutritional benefits of some of the plants in the area. He tore a leaf from one of the plants, saying it was good for their stomachs (digestion). We thought we would try a taste, until he turned to us and drily remarked – “No – you eat – you die” Think we’ll give that one a miss, thanks very much!

The walk was enjoyable, but unfortunately too long for this ‘limp-along’ – my foot began hurting, and I lost interest pretty quickly. I was amused by the fact we were accompanied by a stray dog who seemed to take a liking to us. He would bound ahead through the bush, then turn back as if to say “are you coming?”

We came upon a derelict jungle resort – once luxurious in the 1980’s, it would have had an incredible outlook over the jungle surrounds and wildlife wandering by. However, when the Nepal authorities were concerned about the overwhelming tourism ruining the wildlife habitat, the resort was forced to close down. It gradually fell into decay, until now was simply a group of sad, dilapidated cottages amidst the overgrown surrounds. I thought it was depressing, but Gomez said it was like something out of Jurassic Park, and he was almost expecting a Velociraptor or something to jump out at us!

On our walk back to the hotel, we spied some ‘interesting’ greenery growing on the side of the road. Lush, lime green, attractively shaped leaves – no- wait- it can’t be! But yes, it’s marijuana! Left to grow freely, no-one is overly interested in it. Hmmm…..we could make a fortune here….Lol!

This evening we visited a cultural performance by the Tharu People. They specialize in a variety of ‘stick’ dances, which they use in the hunting, farming, and rituals of their daily lives. They brandish bamboo poles of various sizes, swinging them vigorously and clapping them against each other. Sometimes the movements were so fast that if the timing wasn’t immaculate (which it was) someone would have been clocked! It was fantastic, and quite mesmerizing to watch.

We hobbled home (well, I did) and crashed.

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Day 7 - Chitwan extras

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Nepal 2020 - Pokhara

Day 6 - Pokhara 13 March

Hidden waterfalls, mirrored lakes......

We were collected by Dipak this morning, and driven to the Peace Stupa on the other side of the lake, that overlooks the valley of Pokhara. We were supposed to hike up the steps, but once we were told there were about 1,000 of them, I responded with a firm ‘No”. apparently there is an alternative to drive up the other side of the mountain – I wonder why this is not offered in itineraries, for those that would like to see the Stupa/view, but aren’t physically able to manage the climb? Anyway, on arrival, I made it about half-way up the incline, but once we rounded the bend and I saw the steep steps still to go, I decided to wait for the others, and simply enjoy the view from the current vantage point. On his return Gomez said it was beautiful up there, but due to clouds (we were warned!) he couldn’t see much of the surrounding mountains.

We were next taken to Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave, home of the Devis underground waterfall. The longest cave system in Nepal at 2954m long, it is home to yet another Hindu temple, largely dedicated to Shiva. There were 198 steps, I’m told by Dipak, who is concerned about my limp – but I was determined to try this one. I’m so glad I did. A marvelous circular stone staircase led down to the cave entrance. The steps were a little tricky at times, and the tunnel in to the cave was small enough that we had to crouch, but the temple inside was worth the effort. The Shiva statue itself was gold, with intricate carvings surrounding him, and the obligatory bull sitting in front, protecting the god. It created a very picturesque setting amidst the natural surrounds, and very spiritual. Unfortunately, we weren’t allowed to take photos

The walk on became quite damp and slippery, due to the underground water system. Rivulets of limestone lined the walls, creating pretty patterns of cream against the dark rock walls. Dipak explained that they don’t get the stalactites and stalagmites that we do in Australia, as during their monsoon season (June – August) the cave is flooded, and washes most of the formations away, sadly.

On reaching the cave floor, we caught sight of the waterfall. Only small in comparison to others we’ve seen, it creates a lake at the bottom of the cave. The view is dim, and can only be seen through the crevice created between the rock walls, but it was lovely, and very relaxing to watch (while I caught my breath) AND I actually made it back to the entrance without issue!

Dipak had to leave us suddenly, as he received a phone call telling him that his mother, who is diabetic, was having ‘a turn’. We sent him on his way with well wishes for his Mum. Dip then drove us back to the lake at Pokhara where we were to be taken on a short paddle around the lake. Apparently it was included in our package as part of the trip to the Peace Stupa) The canoes were brightly coloured and plentiful, and one was chosen quickly for us. We waved goodbye to Dip, and our oarsmen proceeded to paddle us out over the glossy surface of the lake. The trip was peaceful and uneventful. We were paddled to Bahari Island, but explained we had visited there yesterday, and didn’t wish to see it again. On our return, our man greeted a fellow canoer – a friend who had been fishing in the lake. He showed us the friends’ catch – the biggest catfish I’ve ever seen! It must have been about a metre long, and would have weighed a fair bit, judging by the strain on our rowers’ face as he held the fish aloft. That would take care of the family meals for the next few days, at least.

After the paddle we found a little café overlooking the park beside the lake. It advertised meals from R99 (AUD1.10) You’re on! We spent a pleasant hour munching on various Nepali snacks – Momo’s, fried rice and peanut sadeko (like a peanut salsa), gazing at the lake view. We then did some souvenir shopping on our stroll back to our hotel, had a light meal, and spent the night watching videos on Gomez’s phone (TV in Nepal doesn’t ‘do’ English – but third child ‘Pubert’ would be impressed with the amount of K-Pop shown here!)

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Day 6 - Pokhara extras

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Nepal 2020 - Pokhara

Day 5 - Pokhara 12 March

Ohmygodohmygodohmygod - Best. Day. Eva!!

An early rise this morning, to watch the sun rise over the Annapurnas (part of the Himalayan mountain range) from Sarangkot (Sarang = dance Kot = fjord), the highest point in Pokhara. Unfortunately, with all the climbing required in our adventure, my legs are pretty stuffed by this stage. As we ascended to stone stairway I misjudged a step, tripped, and fell quite heavily on my side. It was lovely that so many people came to my aid, but I didn’t want to make a scene, so I reassured them that I was fine. But I think I’ve injured my ankle, and scored a few bruises in the process.

I have to admit though – the view made it all worthwhile. Dipak procured chairs for us, and we just sat, silently soaking up the peace. The sun slowly crept over the horizon, the rays sending golden shafts across the peaks of the range before us, gradually lighting up the mountains. A truly majestic sight, I could only gaze in silent wonder at the serene power – it certainly puts your life in to perspective. I know I’m ‘waxing lyrical’, but I just can’t seem to do the view justice.

We returned to town, to visit the Bindasbashini Temple – a Hindu stupa that also afforded wonderful views of the mountains. To tell the truth, you’d be hard pushed NOT to see them here! The town seems absolutely engulfed by this magnificent Himalayan range. There was a chanting session in the temple in process, a wedding, a local band playing background music, and throngs of people paying respects, and praying at, the various shrines. Vishnu (the mighty Protector), Shiva (the Destroyer of enemies), Parvati , Shiva’s wife (goddess of devotion, marriage and fertility) and Ganesh (the remover of obstacles), to name a few. It’s funny, but amidst this hustle and bustle, there is a general sense of calm and peace… it’s quite weird and wonderful.

It was back to the hotel for breakfast in record time, as we’ve booked a heli flight to the Annapurna Camp, at the base of the range, about 3,000m high. The process at the airport was relatively simple, though I had to giggle as we walked through a tunnel under a sign which read ‘Watch your head – 2.18m high’. Who are they expecting – Michael Jordan??

The helicopter glided over the terrain below with ease, and we enjoyed the birds’ eye view of Pokhara city, laid out beneath us, surrounded by the mountains. It was pretty, but oh, my! The view upon landing literally took my breath away! Here we are, at 3,500 metres elevation, and are still dwarfed by these massive monoliths looming over us. The snow is so pure it’s blue, and once the helicopter left us (we’re here for about a half an hour) the silence is absolute, besides the wing whistling through the mountain crevices. There is a pole with prayer flags perched in a rocky outcrop, and I feel obliged to have a photo taken, feeling very ‘Sir Edmund Hilary’-ish.

I gaze up at Annapuranas 1 & 3, and Machapuchre (Fish Tail) in all their immense glory silhouetted against a pristine blue sky, and am quite overwhelmed. I feel so close to those we have lost, and feel they are with me now, sharing this amazing experience. I can certainly feel Mum looking down, and I can’t help but cry, the emotion is that powerful. It’s certainly a moment in my life never to forget.

All too soon the helicopter is back, and we are returned to the lowlands of Pokhara. Dipak told us we were extremely lucky with the weather, to have two such spectacular views - the mountains are frequently cloaked in clouds, and not often seen clearly. So ‘thank you’ to the weather gods! We sit for a while, having lunch and re-grouping after such an incredible experience. I can understand now, a little of why these mountain climbers do what they do – the sheer exhilaration of being even a small part of such magnificence, would easily become incredibly addictive.

This afternoon was low-key. We caught a local boat to the small island in the centre of Lake Phewa. Named Bahari, it houses yet another Hindu temple – they’re everywhere! It’s a very picturesque setting, but as the island is tiny, we were ready to leave with the next boat, about 20 minutes later.

The ‘boat’ is a large twin-hull raft, rowed by two men, and holds about 12 passengers. The trip back to the           mainland takes about 5 minutes. The lake is about 2 kms long, but only about 500 m wide.

We shared our ride with a holidaying Indian family, who were as entertained by us as we were with them. The grandmother, at 86, had an enormous piece of gold jewellery in her nose – I was captivated!! Luckily she was as intrigued by us, and wanted a photo taken with me – “of course!!”

On our walk back to the hotel we were confronted by cows. Yes, cows – not dogs, cats or goats - wandering freely down the road. No-one took any notice of them, and they ambled along quite contentedly. On asking later, Dipak advised they are wild cows, and the locals just let them be. Oh, I’m definitely loving this culture!

I had read online back home about an outdoor restaurant that shows movies here, so we set of this evening, to see if we could find it, for dinner. We were successful, but my gosh – did they make us work for it! Unlit, uneven stairs, winding around the rear of other properties, at time almost climbing vertical – I was very tentative with my injured foo, but was determined (with Gomez’s assistance). The restaurant is set in a natural amphitheatre, with the screen at the bottom, and the lake as a backdrop under a starlit sky.

 What more can I say? Oh – that the pizza was delicious, and it was the best screening of ‘Catch Me if you Can’ I have ever watched! Best – Day – Ever!!!  

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Day 5 - Pokhara extras

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Nepal 2020 - Pokhara

Day 4 - Pokara 11 March

A wet n wild ride.....

We set off for Pokhara today- a 200 km drive to the east from Kathmandu. To break the trip, we decided to spend some of the time white-water rafting, on the Trishuli River. We arrived at the site before the rest of our party, so Cecil, our guide, escorted us to the village suspension bridge that spans the river. Built in 2017, at 216m long it allows the locals to cross the river with ease, and also creates a scenic picture.

On the other side of the river we strolled through the fields of produce – cabbage, rice, and maize, and laughed at the numerous pet goats the farmers keep, side-stepping and trying to leap over each other, to gain better access to whatever food was on offer.

We lunched with the rest of our party – Paul and Genevieve from America, and Ali from Melbourne. A short lesson on the paddling techniques of white-water rafting from Cecil, and we were off.

The surrounds we so tranquil and peaceful – a lovely change from the chaos of Kathmandu. We had an ‘emergency kayak’ in the event of anyone falling out – but he spent the start of the rafting paddling around splashing us with his oar, thoroughly drenching everyone! The beginning of the trip was rapid-free, so Cecil asked if we’d like to hop in the river for a swim. As the Trishuli is considered sacred by the Nepalese, they don’t litter it, so it is lovely and clean – AND BRISK! It took me a couple of minutes to catch my breath, but it was so fresh and invigorating. A wonderful moment of ‘down time’, to float on our backs and appreciate the sounds and sights of nature, without the traffic background.

The only problem was trying to get back in to the raft! The water is quite deep, and I have absolutely no strength in my arms with this ‘frozen shoulder’ issue, so when Cecil yelled “pull!” (for me to hoist myself over the external float of the raft) there was little I could do. Cecil, at half my weight, was pulling with all his might – but had also unfortunately grabbed the chinstrap of my helmet along with the shoulders of my life-jacket, and was choking me as he attempted to lift me back in to the raft. So there I am, face first in the raft, Gomez (the husband) still in the river shoving my backside and Cecil trying to sit me the right way up, but strangling me in the process – and all the while I’m flapping and flailing uselessly, like a landed whale! I’m assured by the others it was hilarious!!

The rafting was SO much fun. Lazy river paddling, populated with rapids such as ‘Short and Sweet’, ‘Ladies Delight’ and ‘Monsoon’ – but Cecil worried us by constantly referring to ‘Upset’ – so named because more often than not, the raft is overturned and all paddlers are tossed in to the rapid. Oh, great!! If I can’t get back in to the boat in placid waters, how the heck am I going to deal with this?!

Sure enough, we eventually heard the command “lock your feet – Upset is coming” and braced ourselves for the worst. The water was heaving and swirling madly over submerged rocks, the cross-currents crashing into each other, creating sizeable mounds of foam. We paddled like mad, then heard “get down!” so abandoned our attempts and huddled together inside the raft, while it was tossed relentlessly by the surging river. We bobbed like a cork out of control for what seemed like ages, then as the water calmed, we tentatively looked around, counting heads. We had all made it!! YIPPEE!!we raised our oars in celebration, only to be told by Cecil – “hang on, you have to survive ‘Upset Two’ yet!” WHAT?! But – no stress, we handled anything the river (literally) threw at us. One last rapid – ‘Surprise’ – and it was. A narrow opening between two massive boulders on the riverbank, causing the water to swell with great force through this space. Out the other side, and – cue the music – “We are the champions!” It was awesome, and I’m so glad we decided to do it!

We spent the next two hours alternatively dozing, or holding our breath as our driver, Dip, navigated the barrier-less hairpin bends above a deadly drop down the side of the mountain. This was done, while brightly decorated trucks (they like to ‘pretty up’ their work vehicles) charged at us relentlessly from the other direction. People definitely have a method in their madness in regard to the driving process, but I wouldn’t want to take them on! Dip is certainly the Superman of drivers.  With scant disregard for safety, bike riders zoom within a hairs’ breadth between cars, without reducing speed. That, and the fact that Nepali law only requires the rider (not the passenger) to wear a helmet, had me gasping and shaking my head more than once. But there’s no road-rage here – everyone seems to just accept this traffic lunacy (cars tend to do the same thing – “you snooze, you lose”) Dip just tended to take it all calmly in his stride. As I said – Superman!

On arriving in Pokhara, we met with our guide, Dipak – the master of the superlative. We received our orientation talk – “you will be entranced, you will be overjoyed, you will be – discombobulated! – by the beauty of Pokhara”, then were left to our own devices. As we’re pretty exhausted after the activity of today, it was a short stroll for dinner, then bed.

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Day 4 - enroute to Pokhara extras

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Nepal 2020 - Kathmandu

Day 3  Kathmandu 10 Mar

Out of the ruins of Bhaktapur.....

We visited Bhaktapur today, a medieval town from the 8th century, about 40 minutes from Kathmandu. The structures and architecture are very ornate, carved in intricate designs that take months to complete. Sadly most of the buildings were destroyed in either the 1934 or 2015 earthquakes, and the people are still trying to rebuild the town, preserving its’ rich medieval design. I was amazed at how most of the doorways and architraves etc were hand carved - they really are master-craftsmen!

Some buildings are dangerously leaning, propped up precariously by massive wooden logs, which we are told people still live in them (??!!) I find this so sad, that the government either won’t, or doesn’t have the funds, to save this beautiful old city

It's also the popular area for artists and potters to congregate..... 

 The story goes that Nepal originally consisted of 50 kingdoms. The Ghurka king slowly consolidated his power by taking over many other kingdoms. The Malla king of the Bhaktapur area had 3 sons, who were constantly fighting over who would have the supreme power. The king decided to give each son a kingdom to rule – Patan, Kathmandu and Badgaon. Unfortunately, this ended up being their undoing. Their combined strength was weakened, allowing the Ghurka king to overtake them all in 1769.this resulted in the final Ghurka kingdom of Nepal, with Kathmandu as its’ capital. It must have been truly beautiful once, but sadly now there are many ruins, and decrepit buldings dangerously propped up by massive logs, or with extremely questionable leans to them. What is most scary is that there are people still living in these wrecks, as they are too poor to move.

Mark showed us the ‘Barking Bell’ of the town – so named because each time it was rung, it caused to local ducks to ‘bark’ in response! We thought that was rather cute.

On our return tonight we went for a wander, and thankfully didn’t get lost this time! It’s actually quite pretty of an evening, without all the traffic, with the prayer flags strung in rows across the dimly lit streets. The shop vendors aren’t overly pushy either. They try to lure you in, but if you decline, they simply shrug and say – “tomorrow, maybe?”

One quirky thing we have found – it doesn’t seem to matter which restaurant/café we dine in, or what we choose to eat, the cost always seems to come to $24!! (AUD) It’s become a standing joke at the moment – “what do you want for dinner?” “Doesn’t matter, it’ll be $24!”

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Day 3 Kathmandu - Bhaktapur extras