Hello I'm Nattar, a 32 year old Non-binary Dragon. I love to create art, writing, building with Lego/Bionicle, Scifi, and most importantly cuddling with my partner 39TheWolf. My pronouns are (ze/hir).
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Pokemon Puzzle Challenge Gameboy Color 2000
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Makuta Icarax before Karda-Nui
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girly-pop the pansexual african lily who works at the blood lab check-in
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Bonkle art fight for Jarhara from art fight! I'm Oyee up there, if you are interested. :)
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Toa Erura (Fire) (he/him) (Mask of Water)
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Toa Qonu (Iron) (they/them) (Mask of Possibilities)
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Photo

I made this so now all y'all have to look at it.
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First Mask Monday of the new lab!!

Decided to start it off with a little something to get back into the feel of it, before diving headfirst into the massive restoration of old molds, replenishing of lacking stock, and continuing colour matching.
This also served as a great opportunity to test the differences between resins - the silver is made with a slower curing version of my previous main resin, of which all my formulas but Yellow are designed with. The slow cure is essential to being able to have two colours in a part, as otherwise they'll harden in the cup before getting into the mold

...kinda hard to shape that into a mask unless you're real good at carving and can fill any bubbles trapped in there.
However, the old resin naturally cures transparent, which can make it a bit harder to match colours while maintaining opacity. The new resin I've been trying out cures solid white, so more dye can be allocated to colour vibrancy over opacity. As mentioned, Yellow has been reformulated for this new resin, Blue is pretty close too! Still gonna be a bit for the other ones - I kind of dread trying to figure out Red and Black tbh.
I was also hoping to see how this new opaque resin changes how the blending between colours looks. The transparent resin had large sections where the two colours bleed into each other, usually resulting in a messy look and a lot of darker, desaturated blobs.


Interestingly, it seems the opaque resin causes it to streak more, much like what we see in the official dual-molded masks! Unfortunately, it has also revealed another distinction between my molds and Lego's - the orientation, which then affects the flow of the colours via gravity. It would seem the positioning of masks in my molds results in the best streaking to happen on the inside - the top of the mold. The colours must naturally pool at the bottom and stabilize, so I may look into somehow flipping them in future designs... Though I haven't a clue how to do so yet without other major compromises.
But that's what I've been up to this weekend! As an extra little bonus, a few masks came out pure yellow, no silver, so they've been added to site inventory. Have a good week everyone!
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