notesfromthephilippines

[notesfromthephilippines]

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Currimao Sunset

Currimao, Ilocos Norte

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Vigan Edge

Vigan in Ilocos Sur is worth checking out if you have the time and you're in the area. Of all of the places in the Philippines, this one stands out as an example of the fusion of Spanish and Oriental architecture. Despite the cookie cutter, souvenir shops that line the cobblestone streets of Old Town Vigan, you can get a feel of how it may have been in the 17th century. 

Calesas (horse-drawn carriages) were popular in the Philippines during the 18th century during the Spanish colonial period. While it is definitely touristy in Vigan, it's still the easiest way to get around to see everything without having to trek in the heat. The calesa driver will take you to the highlights of Vigan, some of them interesting, some of them not. You can stay as long or as short as you'd like though.

Spanish Bell Tower

History of Filipino People Museum

Garrotte - Spanish execution instrument. Never knew about this one. 

Vigan is also known for its pottery. Eat your heart out, Chris Cooley.

The large mound running down the length of the building? That's the kiln. 

Old Town Vigan

An example of some of the fine crafts sold in Vigan. Of course, there are legitimate pieces to be had, but a majority of stores sell bulk items made in China? Yes, those are made of real frogs. Authentic frog leather.

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Blue Knight Going Down

I'm mainly impartial when it comes to cockfighting, but I definitely don't have an attachment towards roosters as I do to, say, dogs. So seeing two feathered warriors go at it to the death doesn't bother me. Megan dared to say that "it was boring." Love it or hate it, it's one of the world's oldest sports and it's not going anywhere. Cockfighting still takes place in Latin America, Europe, Asia and up until 2007, it was still legal in the United States. <gasp> 

The place to be on weekends.

The Original Octagon. Two cocks enter - one cock leaves.

Cock matchmaker. The cockfighting version of weigh-in.

Starting them off young.

Always loyal to fallen heroes.

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* Yes, I know that "Rooster" is about Jerry Cantrell's Vietnam vet dad and it's predictable for this subject matter, but it works so well. 

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The Philippine Tricycle

I've gotta get one of these when I get back to the States. One of the primary modes of transportation, unlike the jeepney, tricycles are relatively new. I asked my dad when they came about and he said they weren't around when he left for the States in the late 60's, so they must of come up in the 70's/80's? Most motorcycles in the Philippines are low CCs, so it also translates to tricycles. It's not unusual to see seven or more people piled onto one. Fares are usually around P8 (US 19 cents).

What I find interesting are the different variations of tricyles. It's like adobo, each region has its own version. One day, I want to make a coffee table book of "Philippine Tricycles". 

I wonder if it'd be cheaper to buy a tricycle in the Philippines and have it shipped over or to have one fabricated in the U.S. Probably the first option, huh?

Cousins, nephews and nieces.

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San Agustin Church of Paoay

Ahh - Paoay Church. This is another go-to spot when visitors come to the Philippines. Completed in 1710, the Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte is a prime example of a Baroque church in the Philippines with its extreme buttresses. It's made of coral stone and bricks. All of the pictures I took of the church over the years have always been in daylight, so these night pics are a first.

When I took these photos, a town talent show was going on. Saw some pretty good acts - two boys singing Bruno Mars' "Grenade" and one of the town elders singing an old, traditional love song. Tender.

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Uncle Rogel

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License and Registration

If you have a foreign driver's license, you can drive on it in the Philippines for up to 90 days. I've heard it's common for police officers and traffic enforcers to "hold" your license until you give them a "fee" when you get pulled over, especially with foreign drivers. I guess that's one of the perks of being Filipino-American; won't get messed with as easily. Sometimes, they'll tell you to go down to the LTO (Land Transportation Office) to pick it up, for a fee of course. Sounds like a nightmare, but on the street, you can usually "work it out" for around P100 (around US $2). 

To avoid having to worry about my Virginia license getting snatched, I got a Philippines license while in Batac. It was fairly simple to do. I just transferred my US license to a Philippines license and took a couple of hours at the LTO. No written or driving test, but I did have to take a drug test and a vision test, which I almost failed. The vision test, that is.  They also finger printed me and took my picture, so I'm officially on the Republic of the Philippines' radar. 

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If I was a betting man, I'd bet that "Move Like Jagger" is the #1 downloaded ring tone in the Philippines.

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"I'm about to f*@# up that halo-halo station." -MB

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The Pride of Batac

The Batac empanada. It's filled with sautéed garlic, shredded papaya, mongo, egg, and Ilocos longganisa (meat). The dough is its signature orange color because of food coloring. Batac has an empanadaan - a food pavilion featuring the Batac empanada and other regional goodies. Yes, balut included. 

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Standard

I love that arroz caldo is standard issue at the airport in Manila. Arroz caldo (hot rice) is a Spanish influenced porridge with rice, chicken, ginger, scallions and calamansi. It's a comfort food that's perfect when you're under the weather. A lot of Asian countries have their own version of it: congee, juk, chao, chok, kayu, hangul.

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Intramuros. Again.

Intramuros is one of those spots that you always bring visiting friends and relatives to. We all have those spots in the cities we live in. It is a cool place. Within its walls is Fort Santiago. It was one of the first projects of the Spanish when they decided to make Manila its capital in 1590. Philippine national hero, Jose Rizal, was imprisoned and executed here by Spanish colonialists. Today, it stands as a testament to the heroism of the Filipino throughout the centuries.

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Where's the etiquette?

From the Chinese Cemetery, we walked over to the MRT (Metro Rail Transit) to ride down to Chinatown. It was something like P16. The platforms and trains were packed, which wasn't bad, but where's the mass transit etiquette? Can we move into the center of the car to let more people on? Can we let people off before more people get on? Is standing on the right, walking on the left on the escalator just a DC thing? I digress.

I'm surprised the MRT isn't more extensive with Manila's population of over 16 million people. We didn't spend a whole lot of time in Chinatown, but one of my first observations was that there weren't a lot of Chinese, just a lot of Filipinos. We ate at a little noodle house which was okay. Need to head back and do some more exploring.

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Manila Chinese Cemetery

The Chinese Cemetery is the second oldest cemetery in Manila, created during the Spanish colonization period for Chinese citizens who were denied burial in Catholic cemeteries. The Japanese used the cemetery as a headquarters during World War II and apparently, POWs, Filipinos, Chinese and Americans were executed and buried in mass graves on its grounds. 

This building was for one person. It's not uncommon for each mausoleum to have bedrooms, full bathrooms and kitchens. "Rent" for each one averages 1 million pesos, roughly US $23,256 for a 20-year lease or US $1,163 per year. If you can't pay rent...

...you gots to go. This is the same mausoleum. They couldn't pay rent and were evicted. The remains are usually relocated to another location by the family or they're included in the Wall of Bones (below).

Wall of Bones

The remains are sealed in a small cube within the wall surrounding the cemetery.

Babies aren't allowed to be buried in the main section of the cemetery and are buried here.

The cemetery now houses several different denominations.

This dude. Buried with his wife and his mistress. Hot man.

With our guide, Eddie. A guide at the gate offered us his services for P700/$16, but we declined. Another guy, Eddie, approached us in the cemetery but took the casual conversation approach. He offered a tour for P400/$9. Sold. 

I'd recommend getting a guide, preferably Eddie if you can. They really can show you and tell you what's what. Plus, lookout for stray dogs. A European woman got attacked the week before. Yikes. Probably tried to pet it. Haha.