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Cat Diabetes
Cat Diabetes
Cat Diabetes
Cat Diabetes: My independent research over several years has convinced me that most cats are being fed the wrong food and it is to blame for many of their physical woes, with the potentially fatal disease diabetes at the top of that list.
However, once my radio show CAT CHAT® began on the Martha Stewart Channel of Sirius Radio, I was contacted by a cats-only veterinarian, Dr. Elizabeth Hodgkins, who was excited to learn that I was getting the nutritional message she believes in—“wet food only”—out to a larger audience.
I discovered that she is “the cat’s meow” where cat diabetes is concerned: known as the “savior of diabetic cats” by the many cat lovers whose kitties she has cured of diabetes (when found early enough) or helped live a long, healthy life with the disease.
Dr. H. became the Official Vet of CAT CHAT® and I, and my listeners, will always be grateful for her generosity of time and spirit in teaching us all the right nutritional path for all cats—wet food only—with diabetic ones benefiting the most.
  Some of what you will read in this article may contradict what your own vet tells you. Although I have no desire to interrupt a good relationship between anyone and their veterinarian, I urge you—I beseech you—to ask your vet to look at Elizabeth Hodgkins’ Web site, and then contact her directly since she is eager to explain her theories, describe her clinical experience and give support in following it to any vet. Cat Diabetes is one of the most common endocrine (or glandular) disorders in cats.
Cat Diabetes can strike a cat at any age but it generally affects middle-aged, obese, neutered male cats. The only breed of cat more susceptible than others is the Burmese, 1 in 10 of which get diabetes after 8 years of age.
WHAT CAUSES CAT DIABETES
Although no one knows the cause of it for sure, some of the suspected reasons for a cat becoming diabetic are because she is genetically predisposed, has a hormonal imbalance or has disease of the pancreas, or it is the result of taking certain medications.
However, one of the prime—and completely preventable—causes of Cat diabetes is that most people are mistakenly serving their cats a fundamentally incorrect diet of dry food.
Feeding a carbohydrate rich diet to an animal who is an “obligate carnivore”—which simply means she must eat meat—is undoubtedly the cause of type II diabetes in cats.
This is a health epidemic that we have created for cats in the past decade or two, by giving our feline companions an endless supply of dry bagged kibble to crunch on.
CAT DIABETES SYMPTOMS
The following are symptoms shown by your cat that may suggest cat diabetes:
  Thirstier than normal resulting in more urinating
Losing a lot of weight
Vomiting
Eating less
Weakness
Bad skin condition
Bad coat/fur condition
Abnormal breathing
Dehydration
HOW DIABETES FUNCTIONS
When your cat has diabetes, her pancreas doesn’t make enough insulin, the hormone necessary to control glucose (sugar) levels in the blood.
The process begins as food is digested and sugar enters the bloodstream. This blood sugar, as it is called, is essential for the body’s energy, growth and repair, but it is the insulin from the pancreas that allows sugar to get from the bloodstream into the tissue cells—like those in muscles—where the cat’s body needs it.
If there isn’t enough insulin, the sugar remains in the bloodstream, where it is useless to the body, and then gets filtered out in the urine. A lot of water goes out with the sugar, which is why diabetics produce a large volume of urine. All of this is true of diabetes in humans, too.
THE EFFECT ON A CAT’S BODY AND METABOLISM
Because they are producing so much urine, cats who are diabetic (or borderline diabetic) drink an excessive amount of water to avoid getting dehydrated.
And because the body of a diabetic cat lacks the insulin to convert the sugar in the bloodstream into usable fuel for the muscles, the body automatically switches to using its own fat and protein as a source of energy.
This is why diabetic cats usually lose weight as a result of the disease—yet overweight cats are more likely to get Cat diabetes in the first place (the same is true with people).
DIAGNOSING CAT DIABETES
This disease is actually easy to catch because the classic signs are so obvious: The cat drinks enormous amounts, urinates copiously, has a good appetite and loses weight.
If you notice any of these symptoms, particularly all at once, you need to make a vet appointment right away. The vet will do blood and urine tests, which will show a high sugar level in the blood and the presence of sugar in the urine if your cat is diabetic.
Once in a while, the classic signs aren’t so clear and even the lab tests aren’t definitive, but there are further tests the vet can do to make the diagnosis.
TYPES OF CAT DIABETES
Three types of diabetes are seen in cats.
1- Type I diabetic cats are insulin dependent and need to receive daily insulin injections because the beta cells of their pancreases are not making enough insulin.
2- In cats with type II diabetes, the cat’s pancreas may make enough insulin but the cat’s body does not use it properly. This is the most common type of feline diabetes. Some of these cats will require insulin as well, but others may get by on oral drugs to control blood glucose and dietary changes. About 70 percent of all diabetic cats will require at least some insulin.
3 -The third type is known as transient diabetes. These are type II cats who present as diabetics and require insulin initially, but over time, their system re-regulates so they can go off insulin—especially with a change to a high protein, low-carbohydrate diet.
TREATMENT FOR CAT DIABETES
Many doctors believe that diabetes cannot be cured, but Dr. Hodgkins would disagree because she has done just that with many cats. If diabetes is caught early enough while the pancreas is still healthy, the disease can be stopped in its tracks by feeding wet food exclusively.
More advanced diabetes can be treated and kept under control with a combination of diet and the correct type of insulin in the correct amount (see below), not unlike the way people control their diabetes.
In many cats, switching to a high protein diet along with a daily insulin injection can actually cause a remission in the disease within weeks. In the early stages of treating the disease, your vet may also want you to monitor your cat’s blood sugar to see how she is responding.
Many cats who need insulin shots in the beginning may no longer need them after the first few weeks or months, so it will be important to check the cat’s blood glucose level, as explained below.
Diet: High Protein, Low Carbohydrate
The fastest route to controlling cat diabetes is to eliminate all dry food from your cat’s diet, which gives her system the correct ingredients to function properly.
By feeding a diet of no more than 20 percent carbohydrates you will also reduce the amount of fat on your cat’s body, a very good thing since obesity is another trigger for cat diabetes, along with other health problems.
While there are commercial diets sold by vets that are specifically formulated for cats with diabetes, you may be surprised about the quality of the ingredients—furthermore, feeding any dry food to a cat only exacerbates the problem of giving an incorrect food.
you should decide to switch to a good canned food since really we’re just talking about feeding lots of protein, which is what a cat would be eating if guided by her own instincts.
What If Your Cat Is Hooked on Kibble?
Some cats get so accustomed to dry food that they are known as “carbo-junkies” by Feline Foodies (as I lovingly call those cat lovers who are dedicated to getting the word out about the dangers of dry food).
Whether or not your cat has learned to love carbohydrates, they are an unnatural ingredient for a cat’s metabolism.
Dry cat food can contain up to 50 percent carbohydrates from rice, corn, wheat and soy, none of which belong in any cat’s optimal diet, which should be little more than a simple mouse.
With so many cats relying on kibble as their main food, it may be a radical change to switch your diabetic cat to canned food.
We have been misled by cat food manufacturers into believing that dry food is healthier, when the only health it really promotes is that of the pet food company’s balance sheets. As you will see, the fact is that cats are carnivores who need real protein—either raw, cooked or in a can—as their main food. In the nutrition section you will also find a checklist of how to wean your cat off kibble and onto canned food if she doesn’t seem to like it at first.
Just remember that with a diabetic cat you should always consult with your vet about any changes you want to make in her diet to accommodate her diabetes.
What Kind of Insulin to Use?
Despite the fact that many vets use a synthetic human insulin called Lantus, or glargine, for cats, Dr. Hodgkins has found that PZI (protamine zinc insulin) is by far the most effective medication for a diabetic cat since it is formulated from beef and pork insulin molecules, which are closer to a cat’s natural insulin than the human version.
She believes it is because of this that Lantus gives unpredictable effects and is not as effective in controlling the cat’s blood sugar levels. To learn more about this—and Dr. H’s methods for keeping a cat’s blood sugar lower than other practitioners are doing—go to www.yourdiabeticcat.com.
Giving the Insulin Injection
Many people are squeamish about the idea of giving an injection to their diabetic cat, but once you get the hang of it you’ll see that the injection is easy to give and causes no discomfort to your cat.
Checking Your Cat’s Sugar Levels
Most cat lovers will tell you that going to the vet’s office is a nerve-wracking experience for their kitty, so having to make frequent trips there to check a diabetic cat’s blood sugar levels is both stressful to the cat and time-consuming for her human companion.
Therefore home-testing is the best way to go when managing your cat’s diabetes. Dr. Hodgkins recommends using a glucometer made for human diabetics to check their own blood sugar levels.
She has a link on her Web site that will teach you how to check your cat and maintain the low blood sugar levels she recommends, which she has found can lead to getting a cat off insulin entirely. See www.felinediabetes.com/bg-test.htm.
Dietary management for cat diabetes
1- Dietary management: In the past, diabetic cats were placed on a high-fiber diet that was thought to slow the absorption of nutrients, with the goal of stabilizing blood glucose levels. However, recent research has shown that this is not the ideal diet for diabetic cats.
2- Because cats primarily metabolize protein, not carbohydrates, for glucose, high-protein, low-carbohydrate diets have proven to be more efficiently metabolized and of great help in controlling diabetes. Prescription diets for diabetic cats that fit this profile include Purina DM Feline, Royal Canin Diabetic DS 44, and Science Diet m/d Feline.
3- Some veterinarians also advise their clients to add meat to the cat’s diet, and some prefer to avoid dry foods because a carbohydrate source must be added to make the kibble. Consult with your veterinarian for specific guidelines for your cat.
4- Occasionally, an obese diabetic cat responds to dietary management alone and does not require insulin to keep his blood glucose well controlled. Obesity greatly reduces tissue responsiveness to insulin and makes diabetes difficult to control.
5 -Accordingly, overweight cats should be put on a diet until they reach their ideal body weight. Prescription diets are available for weight reduction. These diets may or may not be suitable for diabetic cats. Consult with your veterinarian.
6- Daily caloric requirements are determined by the weight and activity of the individual cat. Once this is established, the quantity of food offered each day can be determined by dividing the daily caloric requirements by the amount of calories per cup or can of food.
7- To prevent high levels of blood glucose after eating, avoid feeding the whole day’s calories at one meal. Divide the daily ration into a number of smaller meals.
8- For cats on once-daily insulin, feed half the food at the time of injection and the rest at peak insulin activity—8 to 12 hours later, as indicated by your cat’s glucose curve. With two injections daily, the ration can simply be split in half and fed at the time of the injections. Cats on oral medications should be given small meals throughout the day.
Read More About:
Cat Spraying
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Using Comfort Zone Feliway
Cat Diarrhea
Heartworms In Cats
Understanding kitten behavior
Cat Skin Problems Pictures, Care, and Treatment
Understand your cat body language and cat behavior
Declawing cats
https://www.xyqmfc.com/cat-diabetes-symptoms/
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IBD In Cats: Inflammatory Bowel Disease In Cats
IBD In Cats: Inflammatory Bowel Disease In Cats
Inflammatory Bowel Disease In Cats
IBD In Cats: Cats with recurring digestive problems may have a serious disease called inflammatory bowel disease, or IBD (not to be confused with the human illness irritable bowel syndrome or IBS).
Inflammatory bowel disease in cats is thought to be an overreaction to the normal bacteria in the intestine, which play an important part in normal digestion.
In a cat with IBD, her immune system does not tolerate those bacteria and attacks them, causing inflammation. IBD is the most common cause of gastrointestinal distress in cats and can lead to severe illness or cancer if not treated, so you need to be on alert.
SYMPTOMS OF IBD In Cats
A cat with this disease will have symptoms that come and go periodically—this on-and-off quality is typical of IBD—primarily chronic vomiting and diarrhea, but also abdominal pain, intestinal gurgling, frequent passing of gas, loss of appetite, weight loss, difficulty defecating and blood or mucus in the stool.
THE CAUSE OF IBD In Cats
Nobody is sure what makes a cat’s immune system attack the friendly bacteria, but it may be hereditary.
To reduce the risk of the disease in any cat, experts suggest keeping your cat away from any potentially unclean water that might contain bacteria, especially water outdoors that has been standing in puddles.
Having worms in the stomach, an overgrowth of certain bacteria and allergies to particular food proteins may also trigger the inflammatory response.
DIAGNOSING IBD In Cats
Because the symptoms of IBD in cats are variable and can fluctuate, a vet has to diagnose it one step at a time. After testing blood and fecal samples and deworming, a doctor may put your cat on an experimental diet to see if she is allergic to or intolerant of any particular foods.
If all of those tests are inconclusive, then to make a definitive diagnosis of IBD a cat has to be given an endoscopy—under anesthesia, a tube is passed into the digestive tract to take samples.
TREATMENT FOR IBD In Cats
This ailment is not curable, but 90 percent of cats respond well to a diet and drug therapy, usually some form of cortisone. The goal is to get the cat off the medication as soon as possible and maintain her healthy digestive system with diet alone.
However, even a cat who is doing well may relapse into periods of more vomiting and diarrhea and will have to go back on additional medical therapy.
Read More About:
Cat Spraying
Cat Hair Loss
Using Comfort Zone Feliway
Cat Diarrhea
Heartworms In Cats
Understanding kitten behavior
Cat Skin Problems Pictures, Care, and Treatment
Understand your cat body language and cat behavior
Declawing cats
https://www.xyqmfc.com/ibd-in-cats-inflammatory-bowel-disease-in-cats/
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Clean Cat Ears
Clean Cat Ears
Clean Cat Ears
Clean Cat Ears: The inside of your cat’s ears should be clean and free of odor. Remove excess earwax with cotton balls or tissues. If you see dark, gritty specks in the ears, which indicate ear mites, or an ear discharge, take your cat to the vet.
Tips For How to clean cats ears
1- The first tip to clean cat ears is preventing water from entering the ear. If you bathe your cat, prevent water from getting into her ears by inserting cotton balls at the opening of the ear canals. Wet ear canals can predispose a cat to ear infections. If your cat has been in a fight, check the ears for any cuts or bites that may need to be treated.
2- The 2nd tip to clean cat ears is that Routine ear cleaning is not required. Some wax is necessary to maintain the health of the tissues. However, ears should be cleaned when there is an excessive amount of wax, dirt, or debris. For small amounts of waxy debris, a damp cotton ball or a cotton-tipped swab works well. Many cats tolerate this well if you sit down and hold them in your lap, facing away.
  3- The 3rd tip to clean cat ears is not putting any cleaning solution in the ear unless you are confident the eardrum is intact. To clean a very dirty ear, apply a few drops of warm mineral oil, olive oil, a dilute vinegar solution (three drops white vinegar in 1 ounce [30 ml] of water), or a special ear cleaning solution from your veterinarian (such as Oti-Clens, Epi Otic, Clear X Cleansing Solution, Virbac, Malacetic Otic, or Tris-EDTA products) to the external ear canal and massage the base of the ear to loosen dirt, excess wax, and debris. Then gently wipe out the ear with a cotton ball.
4- The 4th tip to clean cat ears is that ear folds and creases at the base of the ear are best cleaned with a cotton tipped swab moistened with oil or a cleaning solution.
  Do not direct the applicator into the ear canal because this will push the debris deeper into the canal and pack it against the eardrum. Do not swab out or irrigate your cat’s ears with ether, alcohol, or other irritating solvents, all of which cause pain and swelling of the tissues.
5- The 5th tip to clean cat ears is that many cats object to ear cleaning and should be gently restrained, as described in Handling and Restraint. Try to make this a positive experience by staying calm and quiet and giving your cat a treat or some play time right after the ear cleaning. Many cats hold their ears in strange positions right after a cleaning.
HOW TO APPLY EAR MEDICATIONS
Ear medications should be applied only to clean ear canals. Discuss with your veterinarian what cleaning solution will work best with the medications your cat needs.
Some ear medications come in tubes with long nozzles; others come with medicine droppers. Restrain your cat so the tip of the applicator does not accidentally lacerate the skin of the ear canal. Fold the ear flap back over the top of the head.
Insert the end of the nozzle or medicine dropper into the ear canal only as far as you can see. Unless directed otherwise by your veterinarian, squeeze in a small amount of ointment or instill three to four drops of liquid.
To apply medication, insert the tip of the nozzle only as far in as you can see and squeeze in a small amount.
Because most infections involve the deep, horizontal part of the ear canal, it is important for the medicine to reach this area. Massage the cartilage at the base of the ear for 20 seconds to disperse the medicine.
The massaging will produce a squishy sound. Use a cotton ball to wipe any excess medication off the inside of the ear flap.
Antibiotic Ear Medications  
1- Antibiotic medications commonly used to treat external ear infections include Panolog, Tresaderm, Gentocin Otic, Otomax, Mometamax, Baytril, and others. Others are avail- able that contain different antibiotics or combinations of medications.
2- All ear preparations can damage the middle ear or inner ear if the eardrum has been ruptured. Medications should not be put into ears until a veterinarian has examined the cat and determined that the eardrums are intact.
3- Sometimes the cat will need to be sedated by your veterinarian so that the ear canal can be thoroughly cleaned of wax and debris. 
4- Problems associated with the prolonged use of antibiotic ear preparations include allergic skin reaction, the development of antibiotic resistant strains of bacteria, and overgrowth of yeast and fungi. Follow the directions of the manufacturer about fre- quency of application. Expect to see improvement in two to three days. If not, consult your veterinarian because further delay can be harmful. 
Read More About:
Cat Spraying
Cat Hair Loss
Using Comfort Zone Feliway
Cat Diarrhea
Heartworms In Cats
Understanding kitten behavior
Cat Skin Problems Pictures, Care, and Treatment
Understand your cat body language and cat behavior
Declawing cats
https://www.xyqmfc.com/how-to-clean-cat-ears/
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Ear Mites In Cats
Ear Mites In Cats
Ear Mites In Cats
Ear Mites In Cats: All cats have some ear mites but they become a problem when there is a large infestation, causing the cat to scratch incessantly at her ear. These tiny parasites feed on the lining of the ear and when there is a large quantity they cause irritation and a dark brown, smelly discharge.
Ear mites in cats are commonly found in kittens—adult cats are much less likely to be infested with them—and they are extremely contagious. You want to get the afflicted cat to the vet as quickly as possible for medication and to keep the mites from spreading to other household pets.
Any other cats or dogs in the household need to be treated with the same ear drops your vet will give you for the carrier cat.
Signs of Ear Mites In Cats
1- There’s a good chance your cat has ear mites if she holds her ears flat against her head, scratches at them constantly and shakes her head as if to get something out of her ear.
2- The outer ear will be inflamed, and inside the ear there will be a dark, thick, nasty-smelling discharge, although some cats can be infested without any visible symptoms.
3- The most frequent sign isintense itching, characterized by scratching and violent head shaking. This is worse if the cat suffers from an allergic reaction to the mites as well as simple irritation from them.
4- The discharge looks like coffee grounds and may be foul smelling. Constant scratching at the ears can cause raw areas, along with scabs and loss of hair around the ears. The initial problem may be complicated by a chronic bacterial infection.
Diagnosis Of Ear Mites In Cats
  Ear mites can be identified by your veterinarian by removing some earwax from a fold or crease with a cotton-tipped applicator and examining it under a magnifying glass, against a black background. Mites are white specks, about the size of the head of a pin, that move.
Demodex cati is another mite that can also affect the ears. Waxy debris is present; the mites can be found by examining a swab from the ears.
Ear mites can leave the ear canals and travel over the body. They are highly contagious among cats, house rabbits, ferrets, and dogs, but almost never humans. If mites are discovered on one pet, all pets in the household should be treated.
Treatment for Ear Mites In Cats
1- Get your cat to the vet just as fast as you can so you can relieve her intense itching and keep her from mutilating herself as she scratches and claws at her face and ear.
You also want to catch the condition before it turns into a serious infection, otitis externa. Do not attempt to clean out her ear on your own until your vet shows you the safe and effective way to do it.
2- Ear mites in cats are a serious problem, and are deeply distressing and uncomfortable for your cat. They can crawl deep into the ear canals, where they may be difficult to treat. They can also lead to secondary infections of the ears. It is therefore very important to treat all cases of ear mites promptly and thoroughly.
3- Do not begin treatment until your veterinarian has positively identified ear mites as the cause of the symptoms. This is because other ear ailments can be complicated by using ear mite medications.
4- Clean the ears is essential. Dirty ear canals contain wax and cellular debris that shelters mites and makes it difficult for ear medications to destroy them.
5- Medicate the ears using a medication chosen by your veterinarian that is effective against mites. Some common ones are Nolvamite, Mitaclear, and Tresaderm.
Follow your veterinarian’s instructions for dosage and frequency. It is very important to complete the recommended course of treatment, because a new crop of mites will reinfect your cat if the treatment is stopped too soon.
Ivermectin has been used successfully to treat ear mites. It is given as a single subcutaneous injection or with topical drops into the ear.
Selamectin (Revolution) is also sometimes used for ear mites.
Demodex cati mites are generally treated with ivermectin or lime-sulfur dips.
6- During treatment, mites can escape from the ear canals and temporarily take up residence elsewhere on the cat, causing itching and scratching.
It is important to treat the entire cat with a topical insecticide preparation, as recommended by your veterinarian. Since most cats sleep with their tail curled up next to their ears, be sure to treat the tail as well.
7- Clip the cat’s nails to minimize injuries from scratching at the ear.
Home Treatment For Ear Mites In Cats
1- The first step for treatment ear mites in cats is to receive as many tiny creatures from their ear canal as you can by cleansing the earbuds. You are able to use a ear cleansing solution (available at pet supply stores) or attempt olive or coconut oil, however apparent the latter together with your vet .
Place several drops of this oil or solution to the ear canal and massage lightly. Massaging can help bring up debris into the outer area of the ear in which it could be wiped out with a cotton ball or tissue. Don’t use cotton swabs, since one slide could intercept an eardrum. Repeat the cleaning process until the debris is eliminated.
2- The second step for treatment ear mites in cats, you have to administer an ear miticide. Products which include pyrethrins, a natural insecticide, can be found at pet supply shops.
Follow instructions carefully, making certain to massage the drops in addition and wash out any excess. Just one treatment and cleaning with ear drops will not perform the trick, since only one living female mite with eggs will soon start the whole ordeal .
You have to wash out your kitty’s ears daily and apply the miticide just as guided (which can require a couple weeks depending upon the item ).
2- The 3rd step for treatment ear mites in cats, you need to keep your pet away from becoming reinfested with ear mites. Just one ear mite can conceal out deeply on your kitty’s fur — just to creep back after all of the excitement of therapy is finished.
Microscopic mite eggs may hatch days following a treatment, therefore it might take a couple weeks until you may safely assume that your cat and house are mite-free. Cats with ear mites also require regular therapy with flea products to knock those out adventurous mites which go exploring someplace.
7 Home Remedies For Ear Mites In Cats
1- Utilize Natural Calendula Ear Drops
Require a cup of warm water.
Mix 1 tsp of calendula essential oil into it.
Insert 1/2 tsp of sea salt.
Mix the components in warm water.
Use a dropper to sew 4 to 5 drops of this solution to the ear canals.
Utilize a number of this remedy to massage the kitty’s outside ear lobes.
Duplicate the treatment alternate days for two weeks to eliminate ear mites.
2- Mixture Of Rosemary, Thyme, Rue, & Olive Oil
Take equal amounts of rue oil, rosemary oil, and thyme oil.
Mix them in organic olive oil at 50:50 ratios.
Use a dropper and put several drops of the ready solution into your ears.
Employ the remedy daily per week for the best results.
3- Essential Oils: Lavender, Almond, & Vitamin E
Create a organic ear mite cream by mixing 15 ml from oil of almond, plus 10 ml of lavender oil and then cut open
two to three vitamin E capsules.
Mix all of the components in a bowl.
Use a dropper and put 10 drops of this solution to your kitty’s ears.
Have a couple drops of massage and it the outside ear lobes.
Duplicate the treatment daily and evening per week.
4- Apple Cider Vinegar and Water
Mix warm water and apple cider vinegar from 50-50 proportions.
Mix these correctly.
Twist the solution into a spray bottle.
Spray the mix on the contaminated ears once every day.
Duplicate the treatment for ten days to get rid of cat ear mites infections.
5- Herbal Tea Of Yellow Dock
Take 1 tbsp of dry, natural yellow dock roots.
Boil the herb into a cup of water.
Wait till the amount turns out to 1/2 cup.
Allow the tea to become warm.
Strain the liquid and then use a dropper to put 10 drops of it for every ear canal.
Take a amount of the mix and then massage the outside ear lobes using it.
Duplicate the treatment two times per day for 10 or more days.
6- Mixture: Horsetail Herb, Yellow Dock, Lavender Oil, & ACV
Require 4 tsp of yellow dock roots (saturated in prior ) and boil with 150 ml of water for 10 minutes.
Add 4 tsp of horsetail (sliced ) and one tbsp of yellow dock (sliced ).
Let it simmer 2-3 minutes and turn off.
Strain the mix and after that, add 20 drops of lavender oil.
Let it to cool then add 6 tsp of ACV.
Use a dropper and put half of it to every ear canal.
Employ a amount of this mix and then massage the ear lobes.
Duplicate the treatment for 5 days.
7- Internal Cleansing: Thyme and Nettle
Take equal amounts of nettle herbs and thyme herbs.
Boil them in water to prepare a organic herbal tea.
Strain it and then let it warm.
Fill in a dropper for this liquid and feed three times every day.
Do so on alternate days for 10 days until the infestation has completely eliminated.
Read More About:
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Using Comfort Zone Feliway
Cat Diarrhea
Heartworms In Cats
Understanding kitten behavior
Cat Skin Problems Pictures, Care, and Treatment
Understand your cat body language and cat behavior
Declawing cats
https://www.xyqmfc.com/home-remedies-for-ear-mites-in-cats/
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Cat Diarrhea
Cat Diarrhea
Cat diarrhea / kitten diarrhea
Cat Diarrhea / kitten diarrhea Definitions:  It may be a sign of several different disorders—but if it only happens once or twice, it doesn’t have to be a cause for concern.
The intestinal upset may just be a reaction to something that will pass out of the cat’s system in 24 hours. However, diarrhea that lasts longer than a day can dehydrate a cat, and if not corrected it can lead to shock.
Cat Diarrhea / kitten diarrhea is the passage of abnormally soft and/or frequent stools. This sign is often associated with vomiting, but may also occur by itself. When present, diarrhea often causes cats to fail to use their litter pans.
Diarrhea usually doesn’t last long or indicate anything more than a mildly upset digestive system. However, if it persists for more than 2 days, is accompanied by fever or vomiting, or contains blood, take your cat to the vet immediately. If possible, take a stool sample along for analysis.
What To Do About Mild Diarrhea
Any diarrhea that doesn’t fit the warning signs on the paragraph below (Diarrhea Requiring a Vet Visitn) will probably pass on its own in a day or two.
Your vet may want to give you a mild product for feline digestive upset, but do not even think of using human over-the-counter products. The newest Kaopectate formula and any diarrhea product with bismuth subsalicylate (such as Pepto-Bismol) can be poisonous to a cat.
Most vets will suggest withholding food for 24 hours so the digestive tract can empty out and calm down. A wonderful powder called Bio-Sponge from Platinum Performance (800-553-2400) works wonders. If your cat has any of the symptoms on the paragraph below (Diarrhea Requiring a Vet Visitn), you should call the vet and see if he wants to see her right away.
Diarrhea Requiring a Vet Visited
It continues more than one day.
It is bloody or contains mucus.
It is black or any color other than brown.
It is accompanied by fever, vomiting or lethargy.
It has a foul odor.
Cat Diarrhea Causes
Diarrhea has many causes; the most common are related to diet. Diets containing cows’ milk often cause diarrhea.
Spicy table scraps and decomposed food are other common offenders, but any food, including commonly fed commercial diets, can cause diarrhea in certain cats.
Viruses, bacteria, and intestinal parasites (e.g., worms, coccidia) may infect the bowel and cause diarrhea. This occurs most often in kittens.
Diarrhea can also be caused by diseases of the liver and/or pancreas, bowel obstruction, cancer, and metabolic problems.
Even psychological stress gives some cats diarrhea. Trips to the veterinary hospital or the addition of a new cat to the household may result in stress-induced diarrhea, but this type usually subsides quickly without any treatment being required.
Inflammatory bowel disease (IBD) is also frequently accompanied by diarrhea.
Some toxic substances that can cause cat diarrhea / kitten diarrhea include
Gasoline, kerosene, oil, and coal tar derivatives
Cleaning fluid and refrigerants
Insecticides, bleaches, toilet bowl cleaner inserts 
Wild and ornamental plants, mushrooms 
Building materials (cement, lime, paints, caulks) 
Types of diarrhea causes
Dietary Diarrhea
Food Intolerance or allergy (wheat gluten, fatty foods, dairy products)
Foreign Material
Diet Change
Toxins
Parasites
Hookworms
Roundworms
Giardia
Coccidia
Tritrichomonas
Bacteria
Salmonella Clostridium Campylobacter
Viruses
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Symptoms for Cat Diarrhea / kitten diarrhea
Milled cat diarrhea may involve wet, loose stools only were bad diarrhea may involve the likes of: 
A fever
 Dehydration 
Vomiting 
Diarrhea containing blood 
No appetite 
Lethargy 
Pains in the abdomen 
Diagnosing Cat / kitten diarrhea
To determine the cause of your cats diarrhea a trip to the vets will be necessary as test will need to be taken such as: 
A physical examination 
A stool sample taken for tests
An x-ray on the gastrointestinal track If there are more severe symptoms present then test such as blood testing and stool cultures for leukaemia and immunodeficiency viruses are done and there is a possibility of a biopsy of the intestinal track. 
Characteristics of Diarrhea helps in diagnosis the cause of diarrhea:
  kitten diarrhea
kitten Diarrhea is one of the hardest things for a kitten foster mom to deal with. So many things can cause diarrhea, and a kitten dehydrates so quickly!
Add to that what a mess it makes (especially if you have more than one bottle baby) and you’ve got a major headache.
The sooner you get your kitten to the vet and find out what’s going on, the less it costs and the more likely she is to survive.
Kitten Diarrhea can result from:
major diseases like feline leukemia
feline distemper, and feline infectious peritonitis
Food changes, overfeeding, or a formula that doesn’t agree with the kitten can cause kitten diarrhea as well.
But more often than not, parasite infestations and a lack of beneficial intestinal bacteria cause the runs. The frustrating thing is that often they don’t show up when the vet’s looking at the poop under the microscope.
When this happens, I ask the vet to go ahead and treat for coccidia. This ailment is very common among kittens and most of my bottle babies have it.
Cat diarrhea / kitten diarrhea treatment
In most cases, feeding your cat a bland diet for a few days will clear up diarrhea and prevent dehydration.
Some combination of plain yogurt, cottage cheese, boiled chicken, unsalted chicken broth, bread soaked in broth, or boiled rice works well, although you might have to experiment to find a combination your cat will eat.
Some people also use strained, unseasoned baby food. Withholding food for a day or two before starting the bland diet might help. Do not withhold water!
Dehydration can kill a kitten in a matter of hours. If your kitten has diarrhea or vomits repeatedly, seek veterinary help immediately.
Your veterinarian might prescribe medication or recommend an over-the-counter (OTC) treatment. Don’t give your cat any human medication without first consulting your vet. Some contain aspirin or other ingredients that can harm your cat.
Cat diarrhea / kitten diarrhea treatment tips
The first step of Cat diarrhea treatment is to identify and remove the underlying cause. For example:
1- If a cat has a lactase enzyme deficiency (lactose intolerance), dairy products can be removed from the diet without causing a nutrient deficiency because they are not a necessary part of an adult cat’s diet.
2- Diarrhea caused by overeating (characterized by several large, bulky, unformed stools) is controlled by cutting back the overall food intake and feeding the cat three small meals instead of one large meal a day.
Unfamiliar water can cause diarrhea. Give the cat water brought from home or bottled water when you are traveling.
3- When irritating or toxic substances have been ingested, identify the agent because specific antidotes may be required.
4- Diarrhea caused by food allergy or intolerance is treated by placing the cat on a homemade or commercial hypoallergenic diet prescribed by your veterinarian for about eight weeks.
If the diarrhea disappears, the cat can remain on this diet, or various foods can be added one by one until the offending food allergen is detected by a return of symptoms. This food substance is then eliminated from the diet.
5- Food intolerance is a non-immune-mediated cause of diarrhea and vomiting. This could be a response to a dietary protein, a preservative, a flavoring, or anything else in the cat’s diet. Again, removing the offending substance will stop the problem.
Prescription diets for this problem include Eukanuba Response LB Feline, Royal Canin Hypoal- lergenic HP Feline, Royal Canin Neutral Formula Feline, Royal Canin’s Limited Ingre- dients with duck, lamb, rabbit, or venison as the meat protein, Science Diet Feline d/d with duck, rabbit, or venison as the meat protein, and Science Diet z/d ULTRA Allergen Free Feline.
6- Diarrhea that persists for more than 24 hours is potentially serious. Consult your veterinarian without delay. Always remember to bring a sample of the diarrhea so that it can be examined for parasites and bacteria.
A cat dehydrates quickly when fluid losses go unchecked, and this can lead to shock and collapse.
Other indications to consult your veterinarian include bloody diarrhea and diarrhea accompanied by vomiting, fever, and signs of toxicity.
The cause of chronic diarrhea is difficult to diagnose and requires laboratory analysis and close professional monitoring.
7- Diarrhea of short duration without excessive fluid loss can be treated at home.
Withhold all food for 24 hours. Periodically give him very small amounts of water or ice cubes to lick.
As the cat begins to recover, introduce food gradually, feeding three to our small meals a day.
Begin with a diet high in meat protein. Strained meat baby food, the diets recommended earlier for food allergy and intolerance, and Hill’s Prescription Diet Feline i/d are good examples.
Avoid high-carbohydrate foods and dry cat foods. Cats have a low tolerance for carbohydrates and high-carb diets are likely to prolong the diarrhea. Gradually return to the usual food when the cat has fully recovered.
8- Loperamide (Imodium) may be used upon the advice of your veterinarian. However, if an infectious cause is suspected, loperamide might be contraindicated because it will keep the infectious organism in the bowel longer by slowing the body’s efforts to expel it.
Loperamide is also somewhat controversial, as it may cause excitement in some cats. Avoid any diarrhea medicines that contain salicylates.
Homemade Cat Diarrhea Remedies
Cat food for diarrhea or home remedies are used for cat diarrhea treatment.
1. Recipe 1 for cat diarrhea treatment:
1 cup boiled turkey/chicken mince or chicken breast, divided into bite-sized pieces
1-2 glass water or low salt chicken broth
Instructions:
Divide breasts of chicken into bite-sized pieces, and put a small amount of water or the chicken broth to the skillet and simmer until cooked.
You should drain most of the soup (you can leave a small amount), let it to cool slightly before providing it to your kitty.
2. Recipe 2 for cat diarrhea treatment:
Pumpkin is full of soluble fiber that could aid to soothe and coat the GI tract. Moreover, it postpone gastric emptying, reversing the effects of greater periastalis (gastrointestinal emptying) which happens in cat diarrhea.
It’s with high concentration of the potassium, and potassium can be a frequent electrolyte lost during diarrhea and can be well tolerated by cats.
Instructions:
2 glass fresh pumpkin divided into cubes
1-2 glass water or low salt chicken broth
Add these components to a pan and cook until soft.
Then take away the pan from stove, drain the soup and use a potato masher to mash the pumpkin.
let it to cool slightly before providing it to your kitty.
3. Probiotics
While giving milk into a kitty is usually not recommended, particularly your cat with diarrhea, yoghurt is olnly the exclusion. A little amount from yoghurt may also be advantageous to some cats surfer from diarrhea and be used for cat diarrhea treatment.
Yoghurt includes a kind of bacteria called Lactobacillus. These germs typically live in the gut, helping with the digestion of meals.
On occasion the natural flora of the intestine is thrown out of equilibrium (such as if your furry friend is on a course of antibiotics), and this may result in opportunistic and pathogenic strains of bacteria to take hold.
4. Slippery elm:
This herbal treatment has lots of medical advantages and uses, such as cat diarrhea treatment. It comprises a mucilige (a gelatinous substance), which soothes and coats the gut and intestines in addition to raising mucus secretion that shields the gastric tract.
Put 1/2 teaspoon from Slippery elm to your kitty’s meal for every 2 kg (10 lbs) bodyweight.
Read More About:
Declawing cats
Cat vocalizations
Rabies in cats
Cat Spraying
Common Cat Behavior Problems and Solutions
Cats don’t naturally drink water
Cat Hair Loss
How much to feed a cat
Cat Behavior Problems and Solutions
https://www.xyqmfc.com/kitten-diarrhea-cat-diarrhea-treatment/
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Constipation in cats
Constipation in cats
Cat Constipation
Cat Constipation or constipation in cats : When a cat is constipated her stool is hard and dry and retained in the colon, making it hard to pass. Most cats have at least one bowel movement a day—those who normally have one only every couple of days are the ones who are most likely to suffer from constipation.
The typical profile of a constipated cat is a middle-aged (6-year-old) male cat, with short-haired cats being more likely to become constipated than long-haired ones.
Cats can develop an unusual form of constipation or obstipation (severe constipation in cats) called megacolon. In this disorder of unknown cause, the colon loses its ability to effectively contract and cause voiding of feces.
When observe my constipated cat
Cats normally have one bowel movement a day. When stools become less frequent or straining is observed, it is important to determine:
Is the cat able to pass stool?
Is the cat eating?
Is the cat dehydrated?
Could the cat be straining to urinate instead?
Is the cat defecating somewhere else in the house?
Causes of Constipation in cats
Most cats don’t take in enough fluids because they are on dry food. This can lead to cat constipation, especially if combined with any of the other contributing factors, such as hairballs, reaction to medication or trauma to the pelvis.
Other Causes of cat constipation include:
hairballs
dehydration
metabolic diseases
anatomical deformities
arthritis
megacolon and diet.
Megacolon is a chronic condition that causes constipation in cats. The colon becomes dilated and stops having normal muscle contractions. Feces pack up and are not pushed through.
Megacolon can be a progressive condition that needs long-term medical and dietary management. Cats who do not respond to treatment need a surgery, called a subtotal colectomy, to remove the inactive colon and restore the ability to defecate.
Diagnosis for constipated cat
The absence of stool in the litter box is not something everyone notices, but it’s actually really important to keep an eye out for changes in litter box habits because they can indicate problems with your cat’s health.
If the cat is not producing feces or the stool is in rock-hard little balls, your cat is constipated cat and you should do something about it before it creates a serious health problem.
Besides noticing how much stool is in the litter box, there are other ways to detect cat constipation by the signs.
Signs of cat constipation
Lack of daily bowel movement
Stool is black and/or bloody
Vomiting
Straining to defecate
Crying out while passing stool (it hurts when it’s hard and dry)
Squatting in litter box for extended time before or after passing stool
Feces are hard little pieces
Stages of constipation in cats
1.Occasional Cat Constipation Becomes Chronic Constipation In Cats
1- the first stage is occasional cat constipation. If you don’t alleviate a cat constipation, her bowel movements can become even more infrequent and difficult.
2- Hairballs are often the culprit; long-haired cats are especially prone to them, as are short-haired cats who live with them, since they may groom each other. If your cat is having serious hairball problems, she will be vomiting hairballs and you’ll also see hair in her stool.
3- In cases like this, the solution is frequent use of a hairball prevention product (like Petromalt) that you smear on a cat’s foot so she will lick it off. You can also put a dab of butter in her food.
4- If your cat does not pass stool for one day and she has no other underlying health problems, you can try any of the cat constipation remedies from the below section in this article.
5- If they do not relieve the cat so that she can have a bowel movement, then you will need to see your vet, who may administer:
An enema and/or an IV of saline solution to rehydrate her. The doctor will also check for hairballs or other illnesses.
Giving her a cat laxative gel, which you should use only on your vet’s advice. One thing people often don’t know is that cat laxative s should be given at least 2 hours before or after meals, never mixed with food; a brand without sodium benzoate (or benzoate of soda) is preferable.
2. Obstipation: The Cat Is Having No Bowel Movements
The 2nd stage is obstipation in the cat constipation. With obstipation, or fecal impaction, stool is stuck in the colon. Do not try any remedies yourself at home. Get your cat to the vet, who will give an enema or an oral cat laxative; he may even have to do a procedure to remove the stool manually.
3. Megacolon: The End Stage of Cat Constipation
The 3rd stage is megacolon in the cat constipation. This is a condition where the colon becomes so enlarged that it cannot expel the stool, which becomes trapped there.
It can happen to cats in middle age (around 5 or 6 years old) and may require surgery to remove that part of the dysfunctional colon.
Treatment for constipation in cats
(A) Make a homemade cat constipation remedies
First check with your vet before offering the following concoction to your cat, but it’s unlikely that the doctor would be opposed to it. You’ll be mixing together some high-fiber ingredients, which your cat will eat as a treat.
Mix 1 tablespoon of any vegetable/meat baby food
½ teaspoon of melted butter
1⁄4 teaspoon of fine or powdered bran
and about 1 teaspoon of a product such as Metamucil that contains ground psyllium husks
Add at least 2 tablespoons of water to this mixture and offer it to your cat. If she isn’t interested, sprinkle some brewer’s yeast (or nutritional or flaked yeast—all available at health food stores) on it to enhance the flavor.
(B) More Diet For Cat Constipation
It is strongly recommended that you discuss your decision about cat constipation diets with your veterinarian or a holistic veterinarian in your area.
It is essential that you follow any diet’s recommendations closely, including all ingredients and supplements. Failure to do so may result in serious health consequences for your pet.
5 ounces salmon
canned with bone (low-salt) ¾ cup long grain
cooked rice ¼ teaspoon salt or salt substitute 100 mg taurine.
This diet provides 284 kcal, 30.2 gm of protein, and 10.4 gm of fat. Feed this recipe to a cat who weighs 11 pounds.
1.Another Cat Constipation Remedies
Add fiber to the food: 1 teaspoon canned pumpkin or 1⁄4 teaspoon finely ground psyllium husks.
Add 1 teaspoon finely ground raw carrot to the food 3 times weekly.
Mix 1⁄2 teaspoon powdered or fine bran with 1⁄2 teaspoon butter and give as a treat.
Avoid dry food entirely.
Have ample fresh water in a couple of locations to encourage drinking.
Feed canned food or freshly prepared high-moisture-content food.
2.Variations for cat constipation remedies
1. Substitute 4 to 8 ounces of tuna or ½ pound of chicken, beef, or lamb for the salmon.
2. Rice is optional, as cats do not have a strict dietary carbohydrate requirement.
3. For extra nutrition and fiber and variety, add fresh, raw or slightly steamed vegetables, such as carrots or broccoli (approximately ½ to 1 cup per recipe, ½ cup of vegetables add about 30 kilocalories to the diet) as a top dressing for the diet. Pumpkin or squash can be fed to add extra fiber as well. Most cats will not eat vegetables, however.
4. Feed this diet in divided amounts at least twice daily and preferably 4 to 6 times daily. Frequent small meals will allow more frequent movements of the digestive tract and can encourage frequent eliminations.
(C) Other Natural Treatments For Cat Constipation
Other therapies that may be helpful include herbs such as chickweed, dandelion root, Oregon grape, slippery elm, and yellow dock.
These therapies can be used in conjunction with conventional therapies, as they are unlikely to be effective by themselves in most patients with severe disease.
The natural treatments are widely used with variable success but have not all been thoroughly investigated and proven at this time.
Principal Natural Treatments For Constipated Cat
The main natural treatments are designed to induce normal bowel movements.
These can be used in conjunction with conventional therapies when they are not effective by themselves in most patients.
The natural treatments are widely used with variable success but have not been thoroughly investigated and proven at this time.
Natural diets recommended for pets with obesity, especially those with natural cat laxative effect such as fibrous vegetables like pumpkin and squashes, are recommended for constipated cat.
Tips for treatment cat constipation
1-If your cat has more than one episode of constipation, work with your veterinarian to determine a diagnostic and treatment plan. Treatment can involve fluids, stool softeners, motility-enhancing drugs that promote intestinal contractions and even shaving a cat to reduce hair in the stool.
2-If you have any type of lubricant hairball remedy, these products also work as cat laxative drug.
3-Adding one teaspoon a day of psyllium, which is the ingredient in Metamucil and other fiber remedies, to cat food can also help the irregular cat. (Make sure the fiber remedy you choose contains only psyllium.)
4-You may try feeding canned cat food and encouraging water consumption.
5-Feeding canned pumpkin (pumpkin pie filling or plain cooked pumpkin) is another home remedy that can resolve constipation in cats.Try one tablespoon, once or twice a day.
6-Don’t let your kitty go more than two days without passing a stool.
7-If you think an enema is needed, let your veterinarian administer it and then deal with cleaning up any mess.
Never give a phosphate enema designed for a human to a cat—they are toxic to felines!
Cat Laxative Drugs Should Be Used With Constipated Cat
1- Mineral oil (1 teaspoonful per 10 pounds [1 ml/kg] body weight), white petrolatum (1 teaspoonful, [5 ml]) given orally, or docusate sodium or calcium capsules (DSS, dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, 50 to 100 mg orally) are all cat laxative(s) sold over the counter in drugstores that may be used to relieve more severe constipation in cats.
2- Infant glycerine or DSS suppositories for insertion into the rectum are also sold without prescription. These products work by softening and lubricating the stool. Like all cat laxative drugs they should not be used on a continuous or frequently repeated basis without professional advice. Once or twice a day for two days should be sufficient to relieve simple constipation in cats.
Mineral oil interferes with the absorption of oil-soluble vitamins and prolonged continuous use can cause vitamin deficiency. Mineral oil should be administered in food. Do not attempt to give it orally; if inhaled, it can cause severe pneumonia.
3- Stimulant cat laxative such as those containing castor oil or bisacodyl are not recommended for home use without specific instructions from your veterinarian. Chronic use of such drugs can damage the bowel and actually aggravate the problem of constipation in cats.
Enemas Are Best Given By A Veterinarian
An enema may be necessary to relieve impaction of the colon (hardened stool lodged in the lower bowel). This is best performed by a veterinarian who should give your cat a thorough physical examination before treatment.
DSS-containing pediatric enemas can be purchased in drugstores if the services of a veterinarian are unavailable.
To administer an enema, insert the lubricated nozzle into the rectum and administer the liquid slowly at a rate of 1 ounce per 10 pounds (about 1.5 ml/kg) body weight.
Avoid enemas containing sodium phosphate. They are dangerous for cats and their use can cause death.
Read More About:
Declawing cats
Cat vocalizations
Rabies in cats
Cat Spraying
Common Cat Behavior Problems and Solutions
Cats don’t naturally drink water
Cat Hair Loss
How much to feed a cat
Cat Behavior Problems and Solutions
    https://www.xyqmfc.com/cat-constipation-cat-laxative-constipation-in-cats/
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Cat Hair Loss
Cat Hair Loss
Cat losing hair
Cat Losing hair (hair loss in cats) can look rather scary and concerning, it can be caused by many different things. Some causes are a worrying problem when others are not so much and may need a small change in their life style such as their diet.
Causes of hair loss in cats
1. Allergies
The first cause of the hair loss in cats is allergies. Allergies can result in your cat losing hair from itching. This can be brought on by something he or she may have eaten or something they may have come into contact with.
In order to diagnose the problem, you must eliminate the problem and this can be very difficult. Once the offending problem has been identified, weather part of your cat’s diet or something they come in contact with, it can be permanently removed so the allergies no longer bother your cat.
It may take some time before your cat is completely back to normal. Your vet may even prescribe some medication to help relieve any itching still experienced by your cat. Once the allergy has passed, your cat’s fur should begin to grow back.
2. Cushing’s Disease
The 2nd cause of the hair loss in cats is cushing’s disease. Cushing’s disease is a rare cause of hair loss in cats, it is also known as hyperadrenocorticism.
As well as hair loss, Cushing’s disease symptoms include an increase in appetite and thirst and mild to possible severe lethargy. Your cat’s skin may also feel thinner than it should, resulting in them become unhappy when stroked when they would normally be very content.
You may find that if your cat has Cushing’s disease, their hair loss is likely to be symmetrical on their body. It can happen anywhere on their body but is more common around their mid to lower abdomen.
3. Fleas
The 3rd cause of the hair loss in cats is fleas. Cat losing hair can occur during a flea infestation or if your cat is allergic to fleas. If your cat is allergic to fleas it may only take one single flea to cause a considerable reaction resulting in hair loss.
This is due to your cat chewing through their hair in order to get to the very itchy skin. At the first sight of fleas, you should seek out immediate treatment as you may catch it before it becomes more compacted.
4. Hyperthyroidism
The 4th cause of the hair loss in cats is hyperthyroidism. Hyperthyroidism disorder affects many cats and is the most common problem among cats and causes cat losing hair.
As well as hair loss your cat may also lose weight, groom less or stop all together, drink excessively resulting in excessive urinating and a ravenous appetite. This can be controlled with medication or radioactive iodine therapy.
5. Mange
  The 5th cause of the hair loss in cats is mange. Mange is mites that dig under the skin and cause very uncomfortable itching and they can’t be seen. Mange is normally diagnosed by taking skin scrapings and looking at them through a microscope. This is treatable by applying pyrethrin, normally done by your vet.
6. Notoedres
  The 6th cause of the hair loss in cats is notoedres. Cati Notoedres cati is an overlooked cause of a cat losing hair. Notoedres cati is a parasite, this causes alopecia in cats.
Hair loss will be found on your cat’s ears, neck, eyelids, facial area and upper body areas. This is the second most common parasite found to affect cats.
7. Pyoderma
The 7th cause of the hair loss in cats is pyoderma. Pyoderma is caused by the skin being scratched and bitten creating an infection called pyoderma. Pyoderma results in cat losing hair in a localized area with a pussy discharge over it that crusts over.
It is important to keep the area clean of puss and discharge so healing can occur. It is also important to find the cause of the irritation in order to prevent it.
8. Ringworm
The 8th cause of cat losing hair is ringworm. Ringworm creates round patches of hair loss and is a fungus that affects the hair shafts.
Treatments can involve shaving the entire cat to prevent it from spreading, dips and oral medication. Once Ringworm has been eradicated, the hair should grow back problem free.
9. Over Grooming
The 9th cause of cat losing hair is over grooming. A worried and stressed kitty will frequently exhibit their insecurities by more grooming. This happens in just a few areas within the body that will gradually wear the hair away and also expose bald spots.
Treating the reason for the stress is obviously the initial concern but if the over-grooming has also caused ulcers, sores, perhaps infection on the skin, then you’ll have to take care of that too. If the losing hair is significantly more all over it might signal an endocrine imbalance or another reason.
10. Pregnancy
The 10th cause of the hair loss in cats is pregnancy. Pregnant mom cats are able to loss hair throughout the pregnancy or while lactating, this might be a result of fluctuations in hormones. The cat fur must return after a brief time period following the birth.
11. Stress or Shock
The 11th cause of the hair loss in cats is a recent stress or shock, such as:
Following a major surgery or illness.
An alteration in their surroundings such as new furniture or new decoration.
The coming of a new infant or a different pet may also bring stress for your cat.
The companion loss.
The cats may endure despair for grief for another pet, even though it can manifest itself differently than it does in most humans.
Diagnosis of cat losing hair
A blood chemistry test is often done to ascertain whether there are thyroid or hormonal ailments causing the the hair loss in cats. Various imaging equipments, like X-rays and ultrasounds, are utilized to rule out indications of abnormalities or cancer in the adrenal glands.
Meanwhile, in the event the vet believes hair loss in cats is because of a skin infections, a skin culture or biopsy might be carried out.
Treatment and Prevention of cat losing hair
If the hair loss in cats is due to a skin problems like skin thyroid imbalance, erosions, or imbalances of hormones, there are local treatments and medications available, and if the cat losing hair is due to a behavioral problem, adjustment treatment can be taught to remove the problem, but overall, options of treatments are fairly limited.
Besides administering the proper medicine, you need to observe your cat’s condition to be certain that it doesn’t become worse. Because of this, if no remedy choice can be obtained, obtaining a kitty with alopecia becomes more a task of mitigating the distress of the cat instead of growing and raising the hair back to a full fur.
There aren’t any surefire procedures to avoid hair loss in cats, but should you see the cat pulling and bitting at its hair, a ideal practice is to perform a comprehensive examination of your cat skin and hair at least one time every week. Utilize a fine-tooth comb and then segment the hair so that you are able to examine individual segments, and if you’ve discovered that the cat scratching one place more than a second, pay special attention to this region.
Consult your vet to recommend a secure topical therapy to give relief from itching and pain, since in the event that you’re able to break this habit of biting and scratching, your kitty has a much higher prospect of curing.
The ideal treatment will clearly depend on correctly detecting and diagnosing the reason of the hair loss in cats and detect the form of treatment, such as:
Tablets
Lotions
Behavioral therapy
Ointments
Shampoos
Injections
Supplements
Dietary advice.
If you’re lucky then the outcome might be an almost immediate return to good health. Other instances may take weeks to completely resolve.
So always ask your vet in the first indications of the hair loss in cats or some skin issues, and take under account your health and some pets in your family, who might also be afflicted by something similar.
Read more about:
Rabies in cats
Heartworms In Cats
Understanding kitten behavior
Kitten Vocalizations
Cat Separation Anxiety
Cat Body Language
Kitten Vocalizations – Kitten Sounds
Cat Spraying
Cat Marking Territory
https://www.xyqmfc.com/cat-losing-hair-loss-in-cats/
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Cat Hair Loss
Cat Hair Loss
Cat losing hair
Cat Losing hair (hair loss in cats) can look rather scary and concerning, it can be caused by many different things. Some causes are a worrying problem when others are not so much and may need a small change in their life style such as their diet.
Causes of hair loss in cats
1. Allergies
The first cause of the hair loss in cats is allergies. Allergies can result in your cat losing hair from itching. This can be brought on by something he or she may have eaten or something they may have come into contact with.
In order to diagnose the problem, you must eliminate the problem and this can be very difficult. Once the offending problem has been identified, weather part of your cat’s diet or something they come in contact with, it can be permanently removed so the allergies no longer bother your cat.
It may take some time before your cat is completely back to normal. Your vet may even prescribe some medication to help relieve any itching still experienced by your cat. Once the allergy has passed, your cat’s fur should begin to grow back.
2. Cushing’s Disease
The 2nd cause of the hair loss in cats is cushing’s disease. Cushing’s disease is a rare cause of hair loss in cats, it is also known as hyperadrenocorticism.
As well as hair loss, Cushing’s disease symptoms include an increase in appetite and thirst and mild to possible severe lethargy. Your cat’s skin may also feel thinner than it should, resulting in them become unhappy when stroked when they would normally be very content.
You may find that if your cat has Cushing’s disease, their hair loss is likely to be symmetrical on their body. It can happen anywhere on their body but is more common around their mid to lower abdomen.
3. Fleas
The 3rd cause of the hair loss in cats is fleas. Cat losing hair can occur during a flea infestation or if your cat is allergic to fleas. If your cat is allergic to fleas it may only take one single flea to cause a considerable reaction resulting in hair loss.
This is due to your cat chewing through their hair in order to get to the very itchy skin. At the first sight of fleas, you should seek out immediate treatment as you may catch it before it becomes more compacted.
4. Hyperthyroidism
The 4th cause of the hair loss in cats is hyperthyroidism. Hyperthyroidism disorder affects many cats and is the most common problem among cats and causes cat losing hair.
As well as hair loss your cat may also lose weight, groom less or stop all together, drink excessively resulting in excessive urinating and a ravenous appetite. This can be controlled with medication or radioactive iodine therapy.
5. Mange
  The 5th cause of the hair loss in cats is mange. Mange is mites that dig under the skin and cause very uncomfortable itching and they can’t be seen. Mange is normally diagnosed by taking skin scrapings and looking at them through a microscope. This is treatable by applying pyrethrin, normally done by your vet.
6. Notoedres
  The 6th cause of the hair loss in cats is notoedres. Cati Notoedres cati is an overlooked cause of a cat losing hair. Notoedres cati is a parasite, this causes alopecia in cats.
Hair loss will be found on your cat’s ears, neck, eyelids, facial area and upper body areas. This is the second most common parasite found to affect cats.
7. Pyoderma
The 7th cause of the hair loss in cats is pyoderma. Pyoderma is caused by the skin being scratched and bitten creating an infection called pyoderma. Pyoderma results in cat losing hair in a localized area with a pussy discharge over it that crusts over.
It is important to keep the area clean of puss and discharge so healing can occur. It is also important to find the cause of the irritation in order to prevent it.
8. Ringworm
The 8th cause of cat losing hair is ringworm. Ringworm creates round patches of hair loss and is a fungus that affects the hair shafts.
Treatments can involve shaving the entire cat to prevent it from spreading, dips and oral medication. Once Ringworm has been eradicated, the hair should grow back problem free.
9. Over Grooming
The 9th cause of cat losing hair is over grooming. A worried and stressed kitty will frequently exhibit their insecurities by more grooming. This happens in just a few areas within the body that will gradually wear the hair away and also expose bald spots.
Treating the reason for the stress is obviously the initial concern but if the over-grooming has also caused ulcers, sores, perhaps infection on the skin, then you’ll have to take care of that too. If the losing hair is significantly more all over it might signal an endocrine imbalance or another reason.
10. Pregnancy
The 10th cause of the hair loss in cats is pregnancy. Pregnant mom cats are able to loss hair throughout the pregnancy or while lactating, this might be a result of fluctuations in hormones. The cat fur must return after a brief time period following the birth.
11. Stress or Shock
The 11th cause of the hair loss in cats is a recent stress or shock, such as:
Following a major surgery or illness.
An alteration in their surroundings such as new furniture or new decoration.
The coming of a new infant or a different pet may also bring stress for your cat.
The companion loss.
The cats may endure despair for grief for another pet, even though it can manifest itself differently than it does in most humans.
Diagnosis of cat losing hair
A blood chemistry test is often done to ascertain whether there are thyroid or hormonal ailments causing the the hair loss in cats. Various imaging equipments, like X-rays and ultrasounds, are utilized to rule out indications of abnormalities or cancer in the adrenal glands.
Meanwhile, in the event the vet believes hair loss in cats is because of a skin infections, a skin culture or biopsy might be carried out.
Treatment and Prevention of cat losing hair
If the hair loss in cats is due to a skin problems like skin thyroid imbalance, erosions, or imbalances of hormones, there are local treatments and medications available, and if the cat losing hair is due to a behavioral problem, adjustment treatment can be taught to remove the problem, but overall, options of treatments are fairly limited.
Besides administering the proper medicine, you need to observe your cat’s condition to be certain that it doesn’t become worse. Because of this, if no remedy choice can be obtained, obtaining a kitty with alopecia becomes more a task of mitigating the distress of the cat instead of growing and raising the hair back to a full fur.
There aren’t any surefire procedures to avoid hair loss in cats, but should you see the cat pulling and bitting at its hair, a ideal practice is to perform a comprehensive examination of your cat skin and hair at least one time every week. Utilize a fine-tooth comb and then segment the hair so that you are able to examine individual segments, and if you’ve discovered that the cat scratching one place more than a second, pay special attention to this region.
Consult your vet to recommend a secure topical therapy to give relief from itching and pain, since in the event that you’re able to break this habit of biting and scratching, your kitty has a much higher prospect of curing.
The ideal treatment will clearly depend on correctly detecting and diagnosing the reason of the hair loss in cats and detect the form of treatment, such as:
Tablets
Lotions
Behavioral therapy
Ointments
Shampoos
Injections
Supplements
Dietary advice.
If you’re lucky then the outcome might be an almost immediate return to good health. Other instances may take weeks to completely resolve.
So always ask your vet in the first indications of the hair loss in cats or some skin issues, and take under account your health and some pets in your family, who might also be afflicted by something similar.
Read more about:
Rabies in cats
Heartworms In Cats
Understanding kitten behavior
Kitten Vocalizations
Cat Separation Anxiety
Cat Body Language
Kitten Vocalizations – Kitten Sounds
Cat Spraying
Cat Marking Territory
https://www.xyqmfc.com/cat-losing-hair-loss-in-cats/
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Rabies in cats
Rabies in cats
Rabies in cats
Rabies in cats: It is a fatal disease that occurs in nearly all warm-blooded animals, although rarely in rodents. In the United States, vaccination programs for cats and other domestic animals have been remarkably effective. This has greatly reduced the risk of rabies in cats, other pets and their owners. 
Ninety percent of cats with rabies are under 3 years old, and the majority are male. Rural cats are at the highest risk for rabies because of the potential for wildlife exposure. 
The major wildlife reservoirs for rabies (with substantial overlap) are the skunk in the Midwest, Southwest, and California; raccoons in New England and the East; foxes in New York, neighboring eastern Canada, Alaska, and the Southwest; and coyotes and foxes in Texas. Bats, which are distributed widely, also carry rabies. 
the main source of infection for humans outside the United States continues to be a bite from an infected dog or cat. In India, for example, a country that lacks an effective rabies control program, it is estimated that several thousand people die of rabies each year. Travelers to countries where rabies is endemic should be aware of the risk of animal bites.
The Cause Of Rabies In Cats
Feline viral rhinotracheitis (FHV-1) and feline calcivirus (FCV) These viruses cause upper-respiratory illnesses. These illnesses are easily spread via exposure to infected cats, either from aerosolized droplets of saliva from an infected cat (as in sneezing or hissing) or from contaminated objects such as water and food bowls.
This virus causes a fatal disease of the central nervous system. It is more frequently reported in cats than any other domestic animal and can be spread to humans or other animals via a bite.
Wild animals also carry rabies. Vaccinating your cat against the disease is required by law in most states. Some states like California do not require it for exclusively indoor cats, but check your local rules.
Symptoms can include fever, inflamed eyes, discharge from the nose and eyes, and mouth and nose sores. These respiratory infections can be serious and even fatal, especially in kittens.
A cat who’s infected may never completely shake the infection— and may continue to infect other cats even after his own symptoms sub- side. Therefore, this vaccination is highly recommended for all cats.
After the first vaccination series, a booster is given at one year, followed by boosters every three years thereafter. The boosters are important because the vaccine doesn’t confer complete immunity from these viruses, but merely lessens the severity of illness if the cat catches one of them.
Symptoms Of Rabies In Cats
General Clinical signs
behavioral changes.
pupil dilation changing to constriction.
drooling and stumbling.
Normally friendly and affectionate animals can suddenly and unexpectedly turn aggressive and agitated when infected with rabies, and normally aloof cats can become very friendly.
Infected animals can die within four days of developing clinical signs. Once clinical signs develop, there is no effective treatment for rabies in cats.
Clinic signs with details:
Signs and symptoms of rabies in cats are due to inflammation of the brain, called encephalitis. During the prodromal (first) stage, which lasts one to three days, signs are quite subtle and consist of personality changes.
Affectionate and sociable cats often become increasingly irritable or aggressive and may bite repeatedly at the site where the virus entered the body. Shy and less outgoing cats may become overly affectionate.
Soon, affected animals become withdrawn and stare off into space. They avoid light and may hide and die without ever being discovered.
There are two characteristic forms of encephalitis: the furious form and the paralytic form. A rabid cat may show signs of one or both.
The furious form
The furious form, or the “mad dog” type of rabies, is the most common. It lasts two to four days.
A rabid cat can actually be more dangerous than a rabid dog, springing up suddenly and attacking people about the face and neck.
Soon the cat develops muscle twitching, tremors, staggering, hind leg in-coordination, and violent convulsions.
The paralytic form
The paralytic form, which occurs in 30 percent of cases, causes the swallowing muscles to become paralyzed.
The cat drools, coughs, and paws at his mouth.
As encephalitis progresses, the cat loses control of his rear legs, collapses, and is unable to get up. Death from respiratory arrest occurs in one to two days.
Because of the rapid course of rabies, paralysis may be the only sign noted.
The incubation period
The rabies virus, which is present in an infected animal’s saliva, usually enters the body at the site of a bite. Saliva on an open wound or mucous membrane also constitutes exposure to rabies. The incubation period in cats can be 9 days to one year, but usually signs appear within 15 to 25 days of exposure.
The virus travels to the brain along nerve networks. The more distant the bite is from the brain, the longer the period of incubation. The virus then travels back along the nerves to the mouth. Entry into the salivary glands occurs less than 10 days before symptoms appear—which means animals can be infectious before they show any signs of rabies (this is unusual but possible).
A few species of animals are more likely to carry rabies than others. Always use caution if you come in contact with bats, skunks or raccoons (especially during the day,since these are normally nocturnal animals), because they are common carriers.These animals can carry rabies but not develop clinical signs. rabies.
Vaccines Against The Rabies In Cats 
The rabies vaccine can be administered to kittens over 12 weeks of age, one year later and then every three years, according to the AAFP recommendations. However, the frequency of vaccination may be governed by state and local laws.
Certain states require cats to be vaccinated against rabies,while others do not.Each locale may also have different rules regarding quarantine of animals who bite humans. Healthy, non vaccinated animals who bite humans may be under observational quarantine for 10 or more days.
There are a number of reasons to give your cat as few vaccinations as possible:
Most vaccines do not prevent infection, but merely lessen the severity should your cat be exposed to any of them.
More important, cats can develop cancer at the site where vaccines are administered, a fairly recent realization by veterinarians. Several of these vaccinations are given as a 3-in-1 injection, which in itself may raise the chance of a deadly reaction at the site.
Although statistics show that only a very few cats develop sarcoma at the injection site, nonetheless vets are now advised to give vaccines as far down a front leg as possible—presumably because if cancer does develop, that part of the leg could be amputated, since immediate surgical removal is recommended.
The injections for FPV, FCV and FHV have routinely been given to cats on a yearly basis. However, the American Veterinary Medical Association reported in 2004 that it was no longer necessary to give these 3 vaccinations on a yearly basis because their protection actually lasted 2 years or longer. Vets now recommend that to protect against vaccine-associated sarcoma, a cat should receive as few injections in a lifetime as possible.
Instead of routinely having your cat vaccinated every year, you and your vet should discuss your cat’s risk factors for infection to come up with a safe plan, based on her specific lifestyle and age.
For example;
there is no valid reason for a cat who lives completely indoors to receive certain vaccines.
Vaccines have been divided into “core” and “non-core,” meaning those that are considered necessary basic vaccinations and those that may be needed depending on a cat’s lifestyle.
However, you still must have a clear discussion with your own vet about the benefits of each vaccine compared with the risks.
Treatment Of Rabies In Cats
If you or your cat are bitten by any animal of unknown rabies status, it is extremely important to vigorously cleanse all wounds and scratches, washing them thoroughly with soap and water. Studies in animals have shown that prompt local wound cleansing greatly reduces the risk of rabies. The wound should not be sutured.
Prophylaxis in a previously vaccinated cat consists of a booster shot, which should be given as soon as possible after exposure. Vaccination is not effective once signs of rabies infection appear.
The introduction of inactivated vaccines grown in human diploid cell cultures has improved the effectiveness and safety of post-exposure vaccination for humans. Assuming the human bite victim did not have a pre-exposure rabies immunization, both passive rabies immune globulin and human origin active diploid cell vaccine should be given.
There is no effective treatment for rabies. Be sure your pet is properly vaccinated. It is important that cats are vaccinated only under the supervision of a veterinarian. Furthermore, a veterinarian can provide legal proof of vaccination should the need arise.
  Public health considerations
Do not pet, handle or give first aid to any animal suspected of having rabies. All bites of wild animals, whether provoked or not, must be regarded as having rabies potential.
If your cat is bitten by a wild animal or a domestic animal whose rabies status is unknown, wear gloves when handling your pet to clean his wounds. The saliva from the animal that is in and around the bite wound can infect a person if it gets into a cut or onto a mucous membrane.
Preventive vaccinations are available for high-risk groups of humans, including veterinarians, animal handlers, cave explorers, and laboratory workers. 
Early laboratory confirmation of rabies in cats or any an animal is essential so that exposed humans can receive rabies prophylaxis as quickly as possible. The animal must be euthanized and his head sent in a chilled (not frozen) state to a laboratory equipped to diagnose rabies.
Rabies is confirmed by finding rabies virus or rabies antigen in the brain or salivary tissues of the suspected animal. If the animal cannot be captured and his rabies status can’t be verified, you need to consult your physician, who may suggest prophylactic vaccinations. 
Whenever you have physical contact with an animal who may conceivably be rabid, immediately consult your physician and veterinarian, and also notify the local health department. Biting cats who have been allowed outdoors and appear healthy should be confined indoors and kept under observation for 10 days. This is true even if the cat is known to be vaccinated for rabies.
Read more about cat and kitten behavior:
Cat vocalizations
My Kitten is crazy – Crazy kitten behavior
Using Comfort Zone Feliway
Cat Marking Territory
Cat Spraying
Cat Body Language
Understand your cat body language and cat behavior
Cat Separation Anxiety
Cat Scratching
Aggression in cats towards others
Aggressive cat behavior toward other cats and solutions
Common Cat Behavior Problems and Solutions
https://www.xyqmfc.com/symptoms-of-rabies-in-cats/
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Heartworms In Cats
Heartworms In Cats
Heartworms in cats
Heartworms in cats: is a potentially fatal disease that any cat can get in a geographic area where mosquitoes breed. Heartworm may show no serious outward signs in a cat, or the signs can seem like many other feline illnesses—but it can be devastating.
It’s unclear why vets do not usually educate people about this risk to cats, who need every bit of protection they can get from it, even cats who stay mostly indoors. Please go to the American Heartworm Society for more information.
Geographical Need.
Please note that heartworm is a vastly under treated illness in cats.
In whatever areas dogs are being protected from heartworm, cats should also be on a preventive medication, especially if you live in an area where mosquitoes breed.
Heartworm tests for cats are not reliable, so you need to evaluate your cat’s need for protection with your vet based on the prevalence of mosquitoes where you live.
Illness is less likely in the Northeast than in the southeastern states, where it is best to consistently keep your cat on heartworm medication.
The Disease Itself.
Dogs are the hosts for heartworm disease, and can have immature heartworm larvae circulating in their blood.
The illness is spread to other animals when a mosquito draws blood from an infected dog and the insect takes in the microscopic larvae with that blood meal.
Over 2 to 3 weeks the larvae develop inside the mosquito; when they reach the infectious stage and the mosquito feeds again on another dog or on a cat, the insect transmits the infectious larvae into the bloodstream of the new host.
It takes months for the worms to develop, traveling through the animal’s body until they reach the right side of the heart and the arteries of the lungs. In cats, the main location where heartworms grow is in the lungs, despite the name of the parasite.
Cats have natural resistance to heartworms, but they can still become infected.There is a higher risk of infection in areas where there are more mosquitoes carrying heartworm larvae.
With no exposure to infected mosquitoes, cats cannot get heartworm. Preventive medication is available to protect cats who are at risk for heartworms in cats. Ask your veterinarian about the risk of heartworm in your area, and then decide if preventive care is needed.
Heartworms symptoms in cats
Because heartworms in cats can take years to develop, and blood tests on cats are inconclusive about whether the worms are in their bodies, testing becomes pointless.
Years ago, it was thought to be dangerous to give preventive medication against heartworm to animals already infected. However, that is no longer a worry. Since there is no way to know through outward signs or from a blood test whether a cat has been infected, it is recommended to protect all cats with preventive medication.
Diagnosis of the heartworms in cats
Heartworms in cats should be considered as a possible diagnosis for cats who have signs of :
heart disease
Blindness
Fluid in the lungs
Sudden Death
vomiting or asthma
Difficult or labored breathing
Convulsions
Blindness
Lethargy
Anorexia/Weight Loss
live in a high-risk area where mosquitoes are present.
Blood tests that look for antigens to the parasite and antibodies the cat produces against the parasite are useful in making a diagnosis. Heartworms in cats can be observed on an ultra- sound of the heart.
Prevention and Medications for Heartworms in cats.
Feline practitioners are alarmed because unlike dogs, 65 percent of whom are given medication, fewer than 5 percent of all cats are on heartworm prevention.
Since there is no way to be certain that a cat has not been infected, and there is no effective treatment, the only way to keep a cat safe is to have her on preventive care.
Think of it as polio in people—preventive medication was the only option. There are three equally effective medications available that need to be used every month, year round.
Heartgard for Cats (ivermectin) is a chewable tablet
while topical solutions to put on the skin monthly are Revolution (selemectin) and Interceptor (milbemycin oxine).
Sudden death
Sudden death can occur in cats infected with heartworms due to embolization.This is because clots (emboli) caused by the worms can lodge in the heart, brain or lungs and block blood flow.
There are potential complications regardless of the treatment used. The toxicity and side effects of treatments that kill adult heart- worms (adulticides) in cats are considered more of a risk than living with the parasites for cats who have mild clinical signs.
Depending on their location in the heart, worms can sometimes be removed with special forceps or brushes. Adult worms usually only live for about two years in cats, so if the clinical signs they are creating can be controlled medically, adulticides are not used. Conservative medical treatment consists of using cortisone to control the inflammation caused by the worms in the airways.
Increased Risk of Heartworms in cats When Traveling.
Because so many people choose to travel with their dogs and cats, the incidence of heartworm is spreading, and the illness can now be found across most of the United States.
Many dogs and cats have immature heartworm larvae in their blood, unbeknown st to anyone. All it takes is for a mosquito to bite them, and then for them to contaminate local pets, who can then in turn pass on the heartworm to pets in other areas as soon as a mosquito there transmits the disease.
Texas has a much greater number of heartworm cases than any other state in the country. In a study conducted by the American Heartworm Society, Texas had nearly twice as many cases as the next most infected state, Florida, followed by Louisiana, North Carolina, Georgia, Mississippi, Tennessee, South Carolina, Alabama, Indiana, Arkansas, Missouri, Illinois and Michigan.
But when you take into consideration how many people on the East Coast spend winters in Florida with their pets and then bring them back up north, you can see how easily the disease can spread across state lines. The only responsible way to keep your cat and others from becoming infected is to keep her on heartworm medication year round.
West Nile Virus
The only way West Nile virus can be transmitted is when mosquitoes feed on birds that are carrying the virus and then pass the disease to humans and other animals by biting them.
The virus cannot be transmitted directly between animals, or from animals to people. Wild birds and horses are the only animals identified as carriers of the virus; the risk to pets is very low.
The best way to prevent West Nile is to reduce the chance of your cat being bitten by mosquitoes.
Reducing Your Cat’s Exposure To Mosquitoes
Keep pets indoors during early morning and evening hours, when mosquitoes are most actively flying around, if you live in an area where mosquitoes are prevalent.
Consult with your vet before applying any repellent to your cat because it is considered unwise. There are pyrethrin-based flea sprays with directions for use in cats, but many vets do not advocate using them.
Do not use mosquito products intended for people. Many insect repellents designed for human use contain a chemical that can cause serious illness in cats.
Do not use any product containing DEET, which research has shown to cause serious adverse effects in pets.
Avoid citrus oil extracts (citronella) and essential oils; some cats are sensitive to these products.
If pesticides are sprayed in your area, keep your cat(s) indoors with the windows shut tight during spraying and for several hours afterward.
Read more about cat and kitten behavior:
Cat vocalizations
My Kitten is crazy – Crazy kitten behavior
Using Comfort Zone Feliway
Cat Marking Territory
Cat Spraying
Cat Body Language
Understand your cat body language and cat behavior
Cat Separation Anxiety
Cat Scratching
Aggression in cats towards others
Aggressive cat behavior toward other cats and solutions
Common Cat Behavior Problems and Solutions
https://www.xyqmfc.com/heartworms-in-cats-symptoms-diagnosis-treatment/
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Understanding kitten behavior
Understanding kitten behavior
Understanding kitten behavior
To understand kitten behavior and kitten body language, you should know that not only does your kitten use her mouth to talk to you, she also speaks through her eyes, ears, tail, body posture, and even her scent. Felinese is like any other foreign language:
If you talk to a person from a foreign culture and listen to the words only, you may be confused.
But if you look at how someone stands, whether he’s smiling or frowning, and whether his hands are loose or clinched, you start to understand more of what he’s saying.
Understanding kitten body language
Your kitten uses different parts of her body in combination to get her message across. If you’re going to be a good kitten communicator, you can’t just listen to what the kitten says. You have to think feline and look at her big picture, at the whole kitten. Like a line of kitty greeting cards, kittens have facial expressions and body positions to handle all situations.
1.Tail 
The first thing to understand kitten body language and kitten behavior is observing the cat’s tail. Your kitten’s tail is one of his most effective communications tools. How he holds his tail can clue you in to how your kitten feels at any particular moment:
When the tail is held up high like a flagpole, he’s confident and contented.
A kitten wiggles his tail at either the base or the tip as a friendly greeting.
With a tail safely curled under his body, he feels threat- ened. This is a submissive posture that says, “Curses! Caught red-pawed.”
The tail can fluff to more than twice its normal size when he’s terrified. Be careful, he can switch from retreat to charge in the blink of an eye.
A flick of the tail tells you that your cat’s disappointed in some way.
A wagging tail means you’re bothering her (the exact opposite of a wagging dog tail).
If you see your kitten staring at something and slowly twitching her tail tip while crouched, she’s curious or excited. My kittens will assume this position when they sit on the window perch and spy a bird.
As a cat grows more frustrated with the situation, she’ll use her tail more forcefully. When motion escalates to thumping against the floor, look out and stop whatever you’re doing to annoy her. She’s getting ready to nail you (or the other cat).
  2.Ears
The 2nd thing to understand kitten body language and kitten behavior is observing the cat’s ears. Your kitten’s ears not only hear, they speak volumes: The position of his ears reflects his mood. Because 30 muscles control each ear, your kitten can move his ears 180 degrees and change their shape. Although it may vary from kitten to kitten
When he’s feeling friendly, content, or relaxed, your kitten’s ears face forward and are slightly tilted back.
Erect ears mean he’s alert even if he’s lounging.
Ears pointed forward indicate he’s curious about something.
A fearful or defensive kitten will usually have his ears back and down — lying flat against his head. He does this to protect his ears from being scratched or bitten in case the ruckus escalates into a full contact brawl. He also avoids eye contact. A submissive kitten holds his ears like airplane wings
The aggressive cat on the offensive rotates his ears so the inside of his ears are folded up, but facing behind him. Beware! You don’t want to bother a kitten with flattened or rotated ears.
3.Eyes
The 3rd thing to understand kitten body language and kitten behavior is observing the cat’s eyes. Your kitten’s eyes provide a window into what’s going on inside her mind. Take a close look at her eyes. Every part of her eye sends its own message. Especially pay attention to her pupils (the black dot at the center of her iris). Not only do the pupils contract and dilate to control the light, they react to emotional responses:
Contracted pupils: A relaxed or contented kitten will hold her eyes half-open with her pupils contracted.
Dilated pupils: When your kitten’s bug-eyed with fully dilated pupils, look out; she’s either fearful, defensive, surprised, aggressive, or maybe even preparing to attack.
Staring: An unblinking stare from her means she’s challenging you. I use dominance staring as a discipline tool on occasions when the kittens play with me too roughly or attack bare skin. Silly as it sounds, I get down on the kitten’s level, make direct eye contact, and hiss. Most of the time they stop what they’re doing and start to groom their paws or butt as if to change the subject.
Blinking: The opposite of the stare is when your kitten deliberately blinks at you. He’s telling you he likes you and feels safe and comfortable with you. You can return the favor by blinking slowly back. Some people call it a kitty kiss. You will know that your kitten has developed real affection for you and feels comfortable with you if he slowly closes his eyes.
A kitten’s eye view
Kittens can see almost as well as humans with 20/20 vision can. In some ways, kittens can see even better. Kitty vision is designed to aid in hunting. Consider these interesting tidbits:
1-Kittens are slightly nearsighted so that they can focus in on a nearby mouse or lizard rather than distant prey.
2-Kittens’ retinas have more rods than cones. (Rods are the cells used for nighttime vision; cones are the cells used for daytime sight and seeing colors.) Having more rods helps a cat see at night, enabling him to pinpoint sudden motion with his peripheral vision. (Of course, having fewer cones means that your kitten can’t see colors as vividly as you do.)
3-Your kitten has large, elliptical pupils that contract and dilate much faster than your round pupil can. Because of its size, the kitten’s pupil lets more light in. His eyes have a tapetum membrane that reflects light through a second time in the opposite direction creating a visual double exposure of light (this is why your kitten can hunt in near darkness). The yellow glow seen when light shines onto your kitten’s eyes is the light reflecting off of the tapetum membrane.
4-If you don’t mean to discipline your kitten, but he catches you looking at him, try slowly blinking at him to break up the stare. That should put him more at ease. Also try this during stressful times to calm your kitten down.
4.Whiskers
The 4th thing to understand kitten body language and kitten behavior is observing the cat’s whiskers. Although your kitten uses his whiskers like a probe to determine whether a hole is big enough for him to go through, he also uses them to communicate.
When your kitten feels relaxed, he holds his whiskers to the side, allowing them to droop down.
A curious kitten perks his whiskers up and forward slightly.
A hunting kitten moves his whiskers forward — a great help for locating prey in the dark.
Making sense of scents
Your kitten marks his territory using pheromones from glands located in his chin, temples, the corner of his lips, and at the base of his tail. If a male kitten is un-neutered and becomes sexually mature (between 6 and 9 months of age), he may start marking territory with pee pee graffiti.
If he becomes the dominant tomcat, he’ll mark his territory by leaving his poop uncovered for all the other cats to find, as if to say, “I’m the king of my world.” The other cats and kittens cover their poop, leaving themselves in protective anonymity. Early spaying and neutering helps prevent the need to do this kind of marking. However, older neutered kittens sometimes spray to express anxiety about changes in life.
  Some of the ways your kitten’s going to communicate to you
Kittens not only speak to you through vocalizations and posture, but their physical contact with you also speaks volumes. Following are some of the ways your kitten’s going to communicate to you:
1.Head butt
To understand kitten body language and kitten behavior, you should know more about head butt. The head butt is a friendly cat-to-cat greeting that your kitten may extend to the favorite people in her life — the equivalent of a kitty hug. She’s greeting you like you would greet another cat at a family reunion. She’s also marking you with scent from the glands around her mouth and ears.
2.Kneading
To understand kitten body language and kitten behavior, you should know more about kneading. Whether you call it kneading, milk treading, or making biscuits, kneading is a sign that your kitten is a very happy camper.
When she’s resting on your lap and massages your legs with her paws, she may feel as if she’s gone back to her mother’s nest. After all, you feed and protect her like her mother did.
When she was a baby kitten, she massaged her mother while she suckled to make the milk flow faster. An older kitten kneads because she feels safe and content.
This kind of affection can be a bit rough on your legs when those needle-sharp claws dig into your thighs. Like several other kitten responses, this one is a compliment, so don’t get mad or brush your kitten away; you’ll confuse him. A real queen would never push her kittens away like that.
Instead, trim his claws regularly. Another way to protect your legs is to lay a thick towel or blanket across your knees as you sit down, before your kitten climbs into your lap.
3.Drooling
To understand kitten body language and kitten behavior, you should know more about drooling. You may notice as you pet or stroke you kitten that he’s not only purring, but he’s also drooling, too. The petting has sent your kitten into such a state of euphoria that he’s actually forgotten to swallow.
Take this as a wonderful compliment. Still, if you object to a little kitten spit landing on your clothes, occasionally press your finger against your kitten’s nose or the side of his mouth. He’ll swallow instinctively without shattering his mood.
This kind of drooling isn’t a problem, providing it only happens when you’re petting your kitten. If he dribbles all the time, he may have a problem with his gums or teeth, which would justify a trip to the vet’s office.
4.Licking
To understand kitten body language and kitten behavior, you should know more about licking. When your kitten licks you, it doesn’t mean that she’s kissing you. She’s probably grooming you. But don’t be insulted. Kitties only groom other kitties they feel are in their own family. When she licks you, she’s telling you that you’re one of the clan.
5.Wanna smell my butt?
Your kitten may approach you, turn around, and present his bottom to you as if to say, “Ya wanna sniff me?” This is something he only invites his friends to do, whether the friend is human, feline, or even canine. Some experts say the kitten is offering an invitation to take a sniff of his anal glands so you’ll know who he is — sort of a kitty handshake.
Others say you remind him of his mother, and he’s asking you to groom his bottom. I don’t recommend you go to that extreme to bond with your kitten, but thanking him and scratching the base of his tail when he presents his butt is an acceptable response. Regardless of whether he’s asking for grooming or greeting, take the presentation of his bottom as a compliment — an intimate and meaningful moment, at least for a kitten.
6.Leg weaving
To understand kitten body language and kitten behavior, you should know more about leg weaving. As with most of your kitten’s affectionate actions, leg weaving originated with mom. A kitten greets his mom with his tail upright, and then wraps his tail around her rear end to get her to lie down so he can eat.
As he gets older, he continues to rub against friendly cats to place his scent on them. His tail has scent from his anal gland on it. As he rubs his tail against another cat or you, he’s marking you — another display of affection and a good way for him to get attention or food. It works on me.
7.The classic Halloween cat posture
To understand kitten body language and kitten behavior, you should know more about the halloween cat posture. When something frightens your kitten, she may assume the classic Halloween cat posture. (Sometimes playing kittens assume this position out of excitement rather than fear.)
She fluffs up her tail as big as it can look, puffs up her fur by making it stand up on end, and arches her back. She assumes this posture when she wants to look bigger and meaner in the hopes of bluffing a potential attacker into believing she’s invincible.
This terrified kitten won’t approach you head on. She stands with her profile to you and, instead of turning and running away, hops off to the side so that her opponent (you in this case) continues to see a big scary cat even as she’s madly retreating. When you see this posture, back off. Even though she’s a cute, adorable kitten, she may bite you. If you do get bitten, speak to her in a gentle voice and leave her alone until she calms down.
8.See my tummy
If you’ve ever watched littermates play, you may have seen one roll over with all four paws in the air. With her claws sheathed, she’s inviting contact. The other kitten jumps right in, and the growling and tumbling mock battle begins. Your kitten may also greet you with this position.
When she shows you her belly, it could mean that she’s so relaxed and so totally trusts you that she’s showing you her most vulnerable position. She’s not saying, “Scratch my belly,” like a dog would. It’s a show of trust, not an invitation.
If your kitten offers you her belly when she gets older, you may want to reconsider before you reach down to rub that feline Venus’ flytrap. Look a little closer. When lying on her back, your kitten is in a heavily armed defensive position. On her back, she can attack an adversary with claws from all four feet plus her teeth.
Read more about cat and kitten behavior:
Cat vocalizations
My Kitten is crazy – Crazy kitten behavior
Using Comfort Zone Feliway
Cat Marking Territory
Cat Spraying
Cat Body Language
Understand your cat body language and cat behavior
Cat Separation Anxiety
Cat Scratching
Aggression in cats towards others
Aggressive cat behavior toward other cats and solutions
Common Cat Behavior Problems and Solutions
https://www.xyqmfc.com/kitten-behavior-kitten-body-language/
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Kitten Vocalizations - Kitten Sounds
Kitten Vocalizations - Kitten Sounds
Kitten Sounds (Kitten Vocalizations)
Kitten Sounds (Kitten Vocalizations): Your kitten may not be able to speak to you with human words, but if you pay attention and know how to interpret his actions and kitten’s vocalizations, the meanings become fairly clear. Try to focus on all the different ways your kitten communicates with people, other cats, and even the dog.
The kitten Sounds are much more than just “meow.” It includes purring, chirping, and even growling. A Cornell study has documented hundreds of different kitten vocalizations — ranging from soft purrs to the battle yowls of a tomcat. No human knows what every one means, although some of the vocalizations do appear to mean the same thing to most kittens. Other kitty words and sounds may vary from kitten to kitten.
The more you talk to your kitten, the more he will respond and begin to understand. Speak to your kitten, and the two of you will develop your own language together, verbally, through body language, or both.
The most common kitten vocalizations (Kitten sounds):
1.Meow
Meow sound is the first one of the most common kitten sounds. Meow is the first word you probably think of when you think about kitten language; it’s primarily spoken by a mother to her kittens and from a kitten to his owner. Meow isn’t usually used in mature cat-to-cat communications. Your kitten uses this word almost exclusively with you or other humans.
Meow has a variety of meanings; the pitch helps you with all the different definitions. Experts say that the more disturbed the kitten is, the lower the pitch of the meow. A higher pitched meow says, “I’m glad you’re home.” Your cat can also convey urgency; “Feed me, now!” Slightly different sounds and emphasis convey a request or a complaint.
2.Silent meow
The silent meow is the 2nd one of the most common kitten sounds. The silent meow is a polite request. Your kitten waits until you’re looking in her direction and mouths meow.
You almost have to have kitten ears to hear the subtle sound she makes, if she makes any at all. My Siamese-mix kitten, Sam, has mastered the silent meow. He uses it when he wants a treat or snack. I find the silent meow almost impossible to resist.
3.Purr
The 3rd one of the most common kitten sounds is purr. Purring is usually the first thing that endears a kitten to a person. Kittens begin to purr when they’re just a few days old. For a long time, people thought that kittens only purred when they were happy. And a kitten does purr strongly and loudly when she feels content.
But she also purrs when she’s anxious, hurt, in labor, or even dying. A kitten purring with a relaxed body and partially closed eyes feels very contented. Purring with a tense body is a sign that she’s fearful or nervous about something and is reassuring herself.
Now some scientists believe that kittens purr by forcing inhaled and exhaled air down into the larynx and diaphragm, producing intermittent signals at frequencies between 25 and 150 hertz.
Researchers believe that sound produced at those frequencies improves bone density and promotes healing. That could explain why severely ill or anxious kittens purr — and why humans find a kitten’s purr so comforting.
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4.Chatter and chirps
The 4th one of the most common kitten sounds is chatter, chirps. You hear these sounds when your kitten has her eye on prey. They have an “ack ack ack” sound.
She may be stalking a fly at rest, a fat little bird outside the window, or a really convincing interactive toy. Sometimes you can hear her clicking her teeth, too. I’ve also had kittens make this sound when they’ve done something they know is naughty.
5. Hiss, spit, growl
When your kitten growls, he’s telling you that he means business. If the growl fails, he escalates to the hiss. You can’t misunderstand this: He feels threatened, angry, or both.
If you hear your kitten hiss, back off and let him calm down. He’s showing his teeth, and his claws stand ready; he may bite if you force him. A spit may follow the hiss, which certainly inspires me to retreat.
6. Yowl
The 6th one of the most common kitten sounds is yowl. This sound means it’s time to get your little girl fixed; she’s in heat. She’s calling out to find herself a man, or rather, a tomcat. Get used to it. She’s going to keep this up until she either gets pregnant or you have her spayed.
Read more about:
Cat vocalizations
My Kitten is crazy – Crazy kitten behavior
Using Comfort Zone Feliway
Cat Marking Territory
Cat Spraying
Cat Body Language
Understand your cat body language and cat behavior
Cat Separation Anxiety
Cat Scratching
Aggression in cats towards others
Aggressive cat behavior toward other cats and solutions
Common Cat Behavior Problems and Solutions
https://www.xyqmfc.com/kitten-vocalizations-kitten-sounds/
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Cat vocalizations
Cat vocalizations
Cat vocalizations
Cat vocalizations (cat sounds): Cats make a wide variety of sounds, many of which are alien to us, but all of which help the cat to make the connections she needs to the humans and the other animals in her universe.
The more you understand about the repertoire of cat sounds she is able to make, the more it will enhance and enrich your relationship with your cat. Here’s a look at each of the sounds a cat is capable of making, along with their meanings.
Most common cat sounds
(A) Purring
The first one from cat vocalizations (cat sounds) is purring. Purring is a natural form of expression for cats and a source of mystery for us.
1.Where Does the Sound Come From?
There are several theories about how the phenomenon occurs, but no one really knows for sure. Here are some of the ideas on the subject of what makes the purr:
It involves vibrations of the vocal cords.
It emanates from the vibrations of the hypoid apparatus, a series of small bones connecting the skull and the larynx that offer support to the tongue.
It may be the vibration of air in the larynx and diaphragm.
It may be the movement of air in spasms through contractions of the diaphragm.
It may be from rapid and regular nerve impulses sent directly from the central nervous system to the muscles of the diaphragm and to the vocal cords; the muscles are activated in bursts of 20 or 30 seconds, making them very well controlled tremors.
It may be that air passes over and vibrates a pair of folds of skin called the false vocal cords, located at the back of the cat’s throat.
It may originate from the central nervous system.
2.When Does a Cat Usually Purr?
We think of purring as a sound of contentment and pleasure for a cat, and it certainly does occur when a cat is being stroked or even when she hears the sound of your voice. But purring also occurs for many other reasons and at times you might not expect.
Mothers and Newborns.
There is good evidence that the purr was initially a contact sound between a mother and her young. A newborn kitten purrs by the second day of life, well before she can even open her eyes.
It is thought the kitten purrs to let her mother know she is getting enough milk, and the mother purrs back as a reassurance to the kitten.
Some animal experts believe that communication between the mother and kitten was the original purpose of purring since kittens can feel their mother’s purr, which helps them to locate her.
Communication with Other Cats.
The purr can also be used to signal to other cats. A cat who is frightened and feels threatened by another cat may purr to appease the dominant cat, by indicating that she is subordinate or submissive. Conversely, an aggressive cat may purr to let another cat know she is not going to attack.
Comfort and Self-Healing.
Purring is a comfort behavior that cats use while recovering from illness; it may even be a self-healing mechanism. There is speculation that the vibration of purring may actually assist cats in healing themselves when they are sick or injured, in particular when there is a problem with bones.
Studies have shown that all bones and muscles need stimulation for their health. However, cats are especially sedentary and spend a full two-thirds of their time sleeping and lying about.
It is possible that the vibrations created by a cat’s purring function like a low-energy mechanism to stimulate muscles and bones during the healing process. Cats also purr while in labor.
A Purr Before Dying.
As strange as it may sound, veterinarians have witnessed cats who purr when they are close to dying. This may be a result of a euphoria that occurs when death is imminent—a euphoria we know about because terminally ill human patients have reported it.
(B) Hunting Sounds
The 2nd one of the most common cat vocalizations (cat sounds) is hunting Sounds. Sometimes if your cat is outdoors, you may suddenly hear an unusual clicking sound that is not loud but is quite determined.
You are also likely to notice that the cat has dropped low to the ground, moving slowly forward with her tail held horizontal. This indicates that she is stalking prey.
Mothers may use this very distinctive call to indicate to their offspring that they need to remain quiet at this stage so they won’t scarce off the prey. Female wildcats often have a much lower success rate in catching prey when they have their kittens with them.
(C) Caterwauling
The 3rd one of the most common cat vocalizations (cat sounds) is caterwauling. Some calls that cats make can be quite alarming, particularly when they are about to fight. This often takes place at night, giving these sounds a ghostly air. These calls have become known as caterwauling.
Unlike meowing, for example, the shrieks and wailing sounds are long lasting, and their intensity increases as the risk of actual conflict intensifies. Once the conflict begins, there is likely to be screeching, which is clearly the sound of an animal in pain.
However, this call has another function; it is aimed at shocking the other cat into letting go, allowing the underdog either to strike back or retreat rapidly.
(D) Murmurs
The 4th one of the most common cat vocalizations (cat sounds) is murmurs. Older cats can express themselves by a much wider variety of vocalizations, including a series of murmurs when they are relaxed.
These are often audible if you are stroking your pet, who is curled up alongside you. The cat barely opens her mouth when uttering these sounds.
(E) Meow
The 5th one of the most common cat vocalizations (cat sounds) is meow. The more assertive “meow” is made when an adult cat is seeking attention. Your pet may want food, is hoping to be allowed into another part of the home, or simply desires attention from you.
Meowing is usually accompanied by body language indicative of what is on your pet’s mind, whether curling around your legs hoping to be fed, or standing by a door, wanting to be let through to the other side.
If ignored, your cat may persist in meowing for some time, with the sound intensifying as well. Certain breeds, such as the Orientals, naturally tend to have louder voices than others.
Meows are relatively brief calls, with the cat opening and closing her mouth clearly when making the sound, and they are often called vowel sounds for this reason. Sometimes, however, you may notice that your cat opens her mouth apparently intending to make a sound but seems to be struck dumb.
This is probably a way of reinforcing meowing notes without becoming too assertive, and recognizing the dominance of the owner. Your cat now believes she has your attention.
(F) Long Meow
The 6th one of the most common cat vocalizations (cat sounds) is long meow. In contrast, a more tense vocalization is likely to be evident when cats are communicating with each other.
In this case the cat’s mouth tends to remain open, with the lips drawn back slightly to show the long, pointed canines.
The calls themselves may not be particularly loud or aggressive, however, especially if the cats know each other well. These sounds must be interpreted along with your pet’s body language, to provide a clear indication of her mood.
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Other cat vocalizations and their uses
  1. Chirp: a soft, trill-like sound used as a greeting.
2. Chatter: a sound made by a cat who sees prey that she cannot get to, often on the other side of a window.
3. Growl: a low-pitched, continual warning sound.
4. Hiss: a defensive sound like that made by a snake, created with an open mouth and a burst of air forced out through an arched tongue. The cat uses the hiss as a warning to bluff the attacker into backing off and to prevent actual confrontation and violence.
5. Spitting: often accompanies hissing and is the result of being surprised or threatened.
6. Yowl: a loud cry of bewilderment, usually from older cats who are disoriented and anxious. It often happens at nighttime when everyone is asleep and the elderly cat is walking around the dark house, frightened and confused.
A different kind of yowl is the one made by the female in heat, trying to attract a mate. It is a cry like fingernails on a blackboard—if you don’t know all the other reasons to spay your cat, this sound may be enough!
The most common Kitten vocalizations (kitten sounds)
1. Meow
The first one of the most common kitten sounds is meow. “Meow” is the first word you probably think of when you think about kitten language; it’s primarily spoken by a mother to her kittens and from a kitten to his owner.
Meow isn’t usually used in mature cat-to-cat communications. Your kitten uses this word almost exclusively with you or other humans.
Meow has a variety of meanings; the pitch helps you with all the different definitions. Experts say that the more disturbed the kitten is, the lower the pitch of the meow.
A higher pitched meow says, “I’m glad you’re home.” Your cat can also convey urgency; “Feed me, now!” Slightly different sounds and emphasis convey a request or a complaint.
2. Silent meow
The 2nd one of the most common kitten sounds is silent meow. The silent meow is a polite request. Your kitten waits until you’re looking in her direction and mouths meow. You almost have to have kitten ears to hear the subtle sound she makes, if she makes any at all.
My Siamese-mix kitten, Sam, has mastered the silent meow. He uses it when he wants a treat or snack. I find the silent meow almost impossible to resist.
3. Purr
The 3rd one of the most common kitten sounds is purr.
Purring is usually the first thing that endears a kitten to a person. Kittens begin to purr when they’re just a few days old. For a long time, people thought that kittens only purred when they were happy.
And a kitten does purr strongly and loudly when she feels content. But she also purrs when she’s anxious, hurt, in labor, or even dying.
A kitten purring with a relaxed body and partially closed eyes feels very contented. Purring with a tense body is a sign that she’s fearful or nervous about something and is reassuring herself.
Summery about cat vocalizations (cat sounds)
Wild cats are solitary, predatory animals that patrol a territory they regard as theirs. Consequently, most cat communications are designed to ward off intruders. Learning what the cat sounds or kitten sounds he makes mean will help you understand what he is trying to tell you.
Chief among cat sounds are hissing, growling, miaowing, and purring. Hisses and growls—sometimes accompanied by a flash of teeth or show of claws—are warnings to usurpers trespassing on the cat’s territory or to humans who get too close.
Meows—rarely used between adult cats—are mainly a way for kittens to signal to their mother. Domestically, your cat will use meowing to announce his presence.
Short and high-pitched chirps and squeaks usually signal excitement or a plea for something, but drawn-out and low-pitched sounds express displeasure or a demand. Rapid, intense, and loud repeated sounds often signify anxiety.
Long, drawn-out cries and shrieks indicate that the cat is in pain or fighting. Mating cats produce long wails known as caterwauls.
Purring is usually a cat sounds of contentment, but cats also purr as a way of comforting themselves when they are in pain or anxious.
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Read More About:
How to brush a cat
How much to feed a cat
Feline Nutrition Guide
Burmese cat information
Aggressive dog behavior
Cat Nail Trimming
How to Choose a Healthy Cat Food
https://www.xyqmfc.com/cat-vocalizations-cat-sounds-kitten-sounds/
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My Kitten is crazy - Crazy kitten behavior
My Kitten is crazy - Crazy kitten behavior
My Kitten is crazy ( Crazy kitten behavior)
To understand the crazy kitten behavior leads to say “my kitten is crazy” you should know that there is nothing wrong with your wild, energetic kitten—she’s just being a normal kitten, doing nutty things and propelling herself like a whirling dervish, only to collapse 5 minutes later and fall fast asleep.
Many things that kittens naturally do can be maddening to people, but you need to understand that these are not “problems” to solve or behavior to be corrected; the kitten will outgrow them. Right now they are an important part of a kitten’s development, so you don’t even want to think in terms of stopping the behavior.
But just because all kittens do these things doesn’t mean you have to let your kitten run the show and take over your house. You may want to limit her to one room or only let her out of that room when you’ll be around to supervise her.
  To understand the crazy kitten behavior leads to say “my kitten is crazy” you should know that there are two kinds of play behavior in kittens:
Social play with others and individual play with an object. Social play with other kittens happens primarily between 4 and 16 weeks of age and includes rolling around, biting, pouncing and pawing, along with chasing and stalking each other.
In what is called “object play,” a kitten will bite, chase, catch, bat and carry objects; this play resembles hunting behavior and gives her exercise.
Social play with her litter-mates teaches a kitten to curb her teeth and claws and she learns how much bite pressure she can use. The below lists behaviors kittens use when playing with each other that can be frustrating and uncomfortable for people.
•  Kitten Play Behaviors list that leads to say ” my kitten is crazy ” :
Biting people’s hands
Kicking at people who pet them on the belly
Attacking the legs of people who pass them
Getting into anything with an open door: closet, drawers, refrigerator, washing machine
Attacking other older pets (who may have been sleeping at the time)
All this behavior is normal and healthy for a kitten—in fact, if your kitten does not exhibit all or most of these behaviors, you should have her checked out by your vet to make sure there’s nothing physically wrong with her.
One rule to remember in guiding your kitten to grow up well is to praise her for doing what you want and to clap your hands to startle her for doing something you don’t like. Other than that, ignore the bad and reward the good.
Tips for Playing with Your Kitten
Keep her confined to rooms that are kitten-proofed.
Get a good cat tree with scratching posts built in.
Get great kitten toys and rotate them 2 at a time.
Plan at least 2 interactive playtimes daily. •Reward good behavior and ignore bad (or clap your hands to stop it).
You can keep your kitten permanently occupied by getting a second kitten.
  Miss-understand behavior
Some behaviors, you wrongly consider them as crazy kitten behavior and lead to say “my kitten is crazy” such as:
1. Chewing or Licking Odd Things
Some behaviors, you wrongly consider them as crazy kitten behavior and lead to say “my kitten is crazy” Cats and kittens have an acute sense of smell, and when something has an intriguing smell they want to taste it—even something as apparently unappealing as a plastic grocery bag.
Plastic bags bring into the house with them the odor of where they have been or what they have had in them—which in the case of a grocery bag could be many different things. Even the bags themselves might have an intriguing odor, from the volatile chemicals that are used to make flexible plastics such as those shopping bags.
Some of the other items that cats lick and which seem less than appetizing to us are things such as photographic film, photos and electric cords. Cats’ appetites for these things are quite individual because what appeals to one cat may hold no interest for others. Licking poses no danger, generally speaking, but obviously it would be a serious problem if a cat licked a plastic bag and then proceeded to eat it, since it would obstruct her digestive tract.
When a kitten or cat is chewing something bizarre such as a plastic bag there are a couple of things to determine whether this is a sign of an underlying problem. If the cat is simply curious about the plastic bag, she will check it out and then drop it, and that’s acceptable curiosity.
But if she constantly chews and sucks on many different items and for long periods of time, the question is whether this represents an obsessive-compulsive disorder. The other concern is whether the craving to chew and lick comes from a dietary craving for something missing in her food.
Although researchers have not been able to identify a vitamin deficiency in cats who lick and chew (which might have been an explanation for the desire to taste strange items), you have nothing to lose by planting some kitty grass for her so she has something really satisfying and nutritious to nibble on instead.
2. Food Play
Some cats have peculiar habits at the table, so to speak: They will scratch all around their food bowl as if trying to hide or bury it. Although no one can be sure what triggers this behavior, there are a few possible answers.
SAVING FOR A RAINY DAY
Many large wild cats such as bobcats, lynxes and pumas will stash their food when there is a plentiful supply of prey around. These cats will also hide food when they have made a big kill they cannot finish eating. They will cover their extra with leaves, soil, grass or whatever might be available.
Domestic cats who stash their food this way have been observed digging it back up at a later time. This is a pretty interesting example of what is called “evolutionary adaptive behavior,” whereby a domestic animal repeats instinctive habits based on needs of her ancestors that are no longer valid.
SHE DOESN’T LIKE THE FOOD
The other possible reason for trying to hide or cover food is that your cat is treating it like feces, covering it in the same way because she does not like it. If your cat has not had much appetite or shows little interest in the food you are serving, you had better consider changing the menu.
Read More About:
Understand your cat body language and cat behavior
Balinese Cat Information
Aggression in cats towards others
Everything for aggressive dog behavior
Foods poisonous to cats
Common Cat Behavior Problems and Solutions
Cat Behavior Problems and Solutions
https://www.xyqmfc.com/my-kitten-is-crazy-kitten-behavior/
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Cat Marking Territory
Cat Marking Territory
Cat Marking Territory
Cat marking territory is one of the most common cat behavior problems. When searching for the cause of a litter box problem, the most basic distinction is between marking and just urinating and defecating outside the box.
Cats are most likely to mark if they live in a multi-cat household, if they can see other cats or other furry animals through the windows, and if they are male—although females may also mark.
There are two kinds of scent markers which are used in cat marking territory behavior:
1-Pheromones
Pheromones are the “happy” marker which are used in cat marking territory behavior. Pheromones come from the scent glands on her paws, head and cheeks, and a cat uses them to mark in a positive way.
These glandular secretions are chemicals that provide unique information about each cat and are part of a complex communication system among cats.
In the wild, pheromones serve many purposes, such as identifying members of a colony, marking territory, making sexual overtures, seeking information about unknown cats in the vicinity and testing the tendency toward aggression of other cats.
2-urine
Urine is the other scent marker which is used in cat marking territory behavior. Cat Spraying urine is a natural behavior for a cat. She does it to mark territory, usually when she feels threatened or stressed.
No matter how you feel about it, urine marking is not something that we should judge as being “bad.” Cat Spraying is a normal, natural form of communicating for a cat.
Do not make the mistake of projecting human emotions or motivations onto her; your cat isn’t doing this to be spiteful or get back at you. Spraying is a central part of the social structure cats use to communicate and is a normal feline reaction to specific situations. Unfortunately, it fits in really poorly with sharing a home with humans.
Feces are rarely used in marking, although it isn’t unheard of, and cats will mark territory with feces in the great outdoors. You may notice that some cats cover their poop and others leave it uncovered. When it’s uncovered, it’s a statement that Big Bad Kitty was here.
When urine marking, cats tend to back up to a vertical surface and spray urine at it. The male cat’s penis faces the rear, so this is pretty easy for him to do. If your cat is spraying, you will see urine on the vertical surface as well as on the floor just below the marked spot. (If you can’t see the urine, a black light can help you locate it.) If the cat is just urinating outside the box, you are more likely to find larger puddles on the floor.
Intact males who have reached sexual maturity and females in heat will mark territory. Having your pet spayed or neutered before sexual maturity is the best thing you can do to prevent this.
If you wait until after sexual maturity, the spraying will likely have become a fixed behavior, and it will be more difficult to resolve the issue. Male cats who are not neutered will mark. There’s no avoiding it.
How Scent Marking Is Done
The first thing to understand the cat marking territory is knowing how scent marking is done.
1. Marking with the Friendly Pheromones
A cat uses the glands in her cheeks to mark familiar territory that she considers her world. She rubs against objects in a familiar territory, leaving secretions of the scent glands on her face as a positive “message.” It is a sign that she feels confident and secure.
Depositing pheromones by rubbing her face along cabinets, against doorways, on chair and table legs—even on the people in her life—is a self-reassuring behavior that also has a calming effect on her. Cats have scent glands on their paws, too, which is one of the reasons they scratch.
Reaching up against a tree or other vertical landmark is an effective way to leave a calling card for other cats because it can be done at nose level, along with scratch marks to call attention to it. When you see dogs and cats studying marked areas with their noses, think of it as reading the Post-it Notes left by previous passers-by.
2. Marking with Urine
Cats mark with urine for the opposite reason they mark with facial pheromones. Urine is used because the cat is threatened or stressed, usually in a multi-cat environment. Both males and females spray, generally around issues of territory.
A high-ranking cat will spray in more than one location in the house to show how large her territory is and how important she is; a cat may spray when entering a new territory to announce her arrival and as a warning to others not to mess with her; an outdoor cat will often spray around the entire perimeter of her perceived domain.
How Do Other Cats Get the Message
The 2nd thing to understand the cat marking territory is knowing how do other cats get the message:
Cats have a highly developed organ in the roof of their mouths called the vomeronasal organ, which allows them to detect social odors and sort them out.
Sometimes when you watch a cat sniffing an object you can tell that it has been marked by another cat because you will see a sort of smiling or grimacing expression as the cat sniffs.
This is referred to as the Flehmen reaction—the lips curl back as the cat sucks in air with the scent in it, running it past that special vomeronasal organ.
Why Do Cats Scent Mark ?
The 3rd thing to understand the cat marking territory is knowing why do cats scent mark:
1-Cats will rub their foreheads and cheeks—and their tails, too—on other cats they live with and on their human companions. This is a form of social communication that connects the cats with each other, even though cats are not thought to be social, group-oriented creatures.
2-Females who live in a multi-cat environment often rub each other as a greeting. Subordinate cats rub against the dominant cat in their group. Kittens rub against their mothers, which is a social survival behavior: It marks a kitten as belonging to her mother in case she gets separated, and it serve as reinforcement with a mother who might not be as committed to mothering as she should be.
3-In the wild, the only mutual rubbing that takes place is done by mating pairs of cats and by cubs living in the family group during the first few months. Domestic cats today, by contrast, rub against all of those they live with—cats, dogs, people—to create a group scent that connects them; it may also serve to automatically exclude any creature not wearing the perfume of the day.
4-This is curious, however, since cats are decidedly not group animals by nature and this “group hug” doesn’t really fit with their original instincts—which just goes to show how basic behaviors can evolve as the lifestyle of an animal changes over the years. While we assume that cats rub on familiar cats and on people to put their own odor mark on them, some observers of cats wonder if the reason for rubbing against another cat may be different in some cases.
What if a lower-ranking cat rubs not to anoint a more important cat with her own personal perfume but to receive the other animal’s odor? In a group of cats with a hierarchy, if a lower-ranking cat acquires the odor of the top cat, it sends a message to any other group member that the lowlier cat is part of the in-crowd.
It also is a reminder to the high-ranking cat that this cat may be lower on the social scale but has been “preapproved”—sort of like the stamp people get on their hand at the door once they have gained admission to an event.
Five ways for cat marking territory
1. Rubbing with the head
The cat rubs its cheeks all around my head, face, and the bows of my eyeglasses and purrs for all she is worth. If a cat rubs her own head on you , she is marking and telling you with her own distinct odor and letting different cats understand that you belong to her.
Head rubs are a kind of expressing joy and contentment — This feline expressing means “I adore you, you make me relaxed and happy, and I am glad you are mine”
2. Rubbing with the flanks and butt
The scent glands onto the kitty’s sides and the bottom of her tail are usually neutral in the feelings they communicate.
The rubbing with her flanks and tail is sending message between them as similar to two neighbors with adjoining parking areas:”This area is nearer to my home and this one is nearer to yours so let us agree that this is mine and that one is yours”.
3. Scratching
Scratching is a dual goal for the cat marking territory: Your cat renders visual proof a kitty occupies a distance, and her scent glands on your kitty’s paw pads leave a second message cats can not dismiss.
When outside cats scrape items, it leaves post which means ” No Trespassing” signs on your property. Indoor cats scratch, also, even though their scratching is less about warning different cats than engaging natural behavior require to stretch for grooming their claws.
4. Leaving poop uncovered
In case you’ve got a kitty who won’t bury its waste, she is sending message to the world which she’s the dominant cat in the region and no additional felines had greater mess with her.
This special behavior which scientists refer to as” minding ” is that the feline equivalent of utilizing graffiti tags to signify possession of turf. There is a cat in my area that leaves a”gang label” in my garden at minimum one time every week.
5- Licking
The licking is method for cat marking territory once she is licking at you or her cat friends. Your kitty’s saliva conveys its scent, also by licking, by licking, she is marking you, its kitty friend, with its special odor.
Solutions for cat marking territory
1-Neutering usually helps. (Spaying female markers is less likely to help with that problem, but it’s still an excellent idea to spay females.)
2-Cats who live in a multi cat household are more likely to mark because each wants to stake out their territory. (It’s my house, and this mark says so! No, it’s my house!) If stray cats are coming around, your cat will also feel the need to mark. Usually, kitty will mark around windows and doors to try to tell those outside cats to stay away from her territory. When you ask a cat to stop marking, you are asking your cat to stop doing something that comes naturally. This is always difficult to accomplish.
3-If she is spraying because she sees intruders outside the window, blocking off the view is helpful.
4-If the problem is a multi cat household, you may need to partition off the house to keep the cats separated so the two who are instigating marking behavior don’t see each other and so have no need to make a territorial exclamation point.
5-If these measures fail to clear up the problem, then drugs may be helpful. The two most commonly used are buspirone and fluoxetine. Sometimes, using drugs while making environmental changes speeds up the relearning process. Once the behavior has been extinguished, the cat can be weaned off the drugs.
6-Cat-appeasing pheromones like Feliway may also reduce marking. If you’re using the spray, make sure it has dried before the cat returns to the area, though. If it is still damp, it may actually increase marking behavior.
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Cat Spraying
Cat Spraying
Cat Spraying
Cat Spraying urine, also called marking, is a form of scent communication, in which a cat leaves scent markers to make a point, so to speak. Leaving a personal “message” through her scent glands or urine is one of the three basic ways that a cat expresses herself. The other ways that a cat can get her ideas across are vocalizing by using different “meow sounds,” or using body language.
There are two kinds of scent markers:
1-Pheromones
Pheromones are the “happy” marker. Pheromones come from the scent glands on her paws, head and cheeks, and a cat uses them to mark in a positive way.
These glandular secretions are chemicals that provide unique information about each cat and are part of a complex communication system among cats.
In the wild, pheromones serve many purposes, such as identifying members of a colony, marking territory, making sexual overtures, seeking information about unknown cats in the vicinity and testing the tendency toward aggression of other cats.
2-urine
Urine is the other scent marker. Cat Spraying urine is a natural behavior for a cat. She does it to mark territory, usually when she feels threatened or stressed.
No matter how you feel about it, urine marking is not something that we should judge as being “bad.” Cat Spraying is a normal, natural form of communicating for a cat.
Do not make the mistake of projecting human emotions or motivations onto her; your cat isn’t doing this to be spiteful or get back at you. Spraying is a central part of the social structure cats use to communicate and is a normal feline reaction to specific situations. Unfortunately, it fits in really poorly with sharing a home with humans.
How Scent Marking Is Done 
1.Marking with the Friendly Pheromones
A cat uses the glands in her cheeks to mark familiar territory that she considers her world. She rubs against objects in a familiar territory, leaving secretions of the scent glands on her face as a positive “message.” It is a sign that she feels confident and secure.
Depositing pheromones by rubbing her face along cabinets, against doorways, on chair and table legs—even on the people in her life—is a self-reassuring behavior that also has a calming effect on her. Cats have scent glands on their paws, too, which is one of the reasons they scratch.
Reaching up against a tree or other vertical landmark is an effective way to leave a calling card for other cats because it can be done at nose level, along with scratch marks to call attention to it. When you see dogs and cats studying marked areas with their noses, think of it as reading the Post-it Notes left by previous passers-by.
2.Marking with Urine
Cats mark with urine for the opposite reason they mark with facial pheromones. Urine is used because the cat is threatened or stressed, usually in a multi-cat environment. Both males and females spray, generally around issues of territory.
A high-ranking cat will spray in more than one location in the house to show how large her territory is and how important she is; a cat may spray when entering a new territory to announce her arrival and as a warning to others not to mess with her; an outdoor cat will often spray around the entire perimeter of her perceived domain.
3.How the Cat Sprays
Urine cat spraying is a highly ritualized behavior. The first thing a cat will do is back up to the targeted object. Her tail quivers and twitches. She will knead the ground with her front paws or tread with her back paws.
She may close her eyes and get an expression on her face that is almost like grinning. And then she will send a spray of urine out behind her and up against the chosen object.
She will purposely spray at about nose height for another cat—the point of putting it precisely at that level is so that any passing cat cannot miss her mark.
4.How Do Other Cats Get the Message?
Cats have a highly developed organ in the roof of their mouths called the vomeronasal organ, which allows them to detect social odors and sort them out.
Sometimes when you watch a cat sniffing an object you can tell that it has been marked by another cat because you will see a sort of smiling or grimacing expression as the cat sniffs.
This is referred to as the Flehmen reaction—the lips curl back as the cat sucks in air with the scent in it, running it past that special vomeronasal organ.
Cat Spraying Reasons
Cats always have a reason for cat spraying behavior, and once you know how to decipher the clues you may be able to alleviate the cause. Begin by collecting clues. Where is the cat spraying? When is it occurring?
1- If the spray is underneath a window or on the wall across from it, it’s possible that there is a strange cat appearing outside that window and causing your cat to make a territorial statement. Or if your cat is allowed outdoors and encounters a strange cat out there, upon her return your cat may feel compelled to spray her own territory for good measure.
2- If you’ve added a new cat to the household, that always shakes up the status quo; a resident cat is going to react, and it may be through spraying doorways or pathways.
3- Has a new baby or an older relative joined the household? Cats don’t like change of any kind, and a shift in the family makeup can inspire spraying.
4- Have you bought new furniture, or even rearranged the furniture you have? A cat may feel inspired to mark anything new in her kingdom—and if the furniture has an unfamiliar smell, that is a good reason to spray it, too.
5- Have you been away from home, perhaps traveling? When you return, watch out where you put your suitcase, your briefcase or even your overcoat: Anything that brings new and strange odors into the house is fair game because a cat may feel compelled to spray it as an intrusive, alien arrival.
6- Spraying can be triggered both by objects that the cat “needs” to cover with her odor or as a generalized stress reaction to household change. One thing seems to be true, unfortunately: Almost anything and everything can be an inspiration for a cat to spray.
Causes of cat spraying
Sighting of a strange cat outside
Hierarchy issues with another cat or a dog
Too many cats sharing a house
Loss of a cat in a multi-cat household
Loss of a human in the house—death, divorce, kid going to college
Separation anxiety if bonded too closely to you
New family member or pet arrives
Reaching sexual maturity in un neutered males
The cat’s natural inclination—personality • Scent of unknown cat on you or your clothing
Move to new house or renovation
Unknown human visitors • Change in significant human’s schedule
Arrival of new furniture or other large objects
Cat Spraying as a personal message to you
1- The Cat Marks on Your Bed
It is really upsetting to come home and find that your cat has urinated (or worse) on your bed. People often misunderstand the reason that a cat would choose their bed, so they assign evil motives to the cat’s choice when what is actually motivating a cat is pure instinct.
Your bed is a prime target because you lie on it for hours, building up a fragrant scent. Your cat does not anoint your bed to get back at you or to display anger.
There are cat behaviorists who have come up with a surprising new theory about why cats urinate on their people’s bed when the people are unavailable (either out of the house or fast asleep). Relieving herself on your bed actually feeds an emotional need for your cat.
Apparently, the chemicals in urine seem to comfort a cat while she waits for her person. A cat who does this may also be looking for attention or food, but whichever the case, the odor of the urine appears to have a soothing quality.
Fortunately, there is an easy fix for this particular problem: Shut your bedroom door when you are out or asleep. I just hope you figure out the logistics of this problem before the cat urinates all the way through to your mattress—because then you have a serious cleanup challenge on your hands.
2- Separation Anxiety in Lonely Cats
A solitary cat who gets too closely bonded to you can become anxious when you leave her alone. However, cats do not exhibit what we might think of as classic signs of separation anxiety:
They won’t destroy objects in the house or take out their frustration on doors or other parts of the house itself.
Instead, a lonely cat will stop eating, groom herself excessively or mark with urine.
A cat suffering from separation anxiety not only will miss the box but will especially mark the personal property (such as the bed) of the person she is so closely bonded to.
Ways to stop cat spraying
There are several things you can do right off the bat to lower the likelihood of spraying in your house. Your overall goal is to create a calmer, more secure environment for your cat so she doesn’t have stress and anxiety.
After you read this article, you will get to the real cure for the nightmare of spraying: a product called Comfort Zone Feliway. The philosophy behind using this product is based on the fact that cats do not urine-mark where they facially rub.
1. Neuter and Spay
The first step to stop cat spraying is neutering the cat. All Cats I hope this would already be the case, but if for some reason you have unneutered males or unspayed females, please make an appointment at the vet to correct that right away.
2. Have Same-Sex Cats Only
The 2nd step to stop cat spraying is having same sex cats only. There are studies that show that an all-male cat population will spray much less if there are no females around to inspire their territorial marking. Female cats will spray equally whichever the sex of their housemate cat.
3. Introduce Environmental Change Very Slowly
The 3rd step to stop cat spraying is Introducing Environmental Change Very Slowly. Any physical changes to a cat’s world can trigger anxiety-related marking. If you are going to get new furniture, consider getting one piece at a time.
You can even cover the furniture with a cloth that you have first rubbed all over your cat (to pick up her scent) or sprayed with Comfort Zone Feliway.
4. Introduce New Household Members
The 4th step to stop cat spraying is Introducing new household members. Slowly Before bringing home a new baby, first “break the news” to your cat’s olfactory system by bringing home items of clothing that the baby has already worn.
Put a piece of the infant’s unwashed clothing wherever your cat hangs out—on her climbing tree, on her bed—to get her accustomed to the baby’s smell ahead of time so his actual arrival isn’t such a shock.
5. Reduce Conflict in a Multi-Cat Household
The 5th step to stop cat spraying is reducing conflict in a multi-cat household. In a group that lives together, a lot of marking and spraying is directed at other cats. By reducing any potential issues over territory, food resources and litter boxes, you will lessen the need to spray and stake a claim.
Have one litter box for each of your cats, plus one “for the house”; multiple food and water bowls help as well, all as far apart as possible.
6. Close Curtains on Windows Where Strange Cats Walk Past
The 6th step to stop cat spraying is closing curtains on windows. This is a pretty logical fix: If your cat cannot see another cat strolling past, she won’t have the need to mark in response to it.
7. Change the Cat’s Association with the Area
The 7th step to stop cat spraying is Change the Cat’s Association with the Area. Cats will not eliminate or spray where they eat or where they have marked with their “happy pheromones” from their facial glands, and you can make this work in your favor.
This simple fix can be the most important thing you can do. Take your cat’s food bowl and put it right over an area where she has been spraying (after you do the whole cleanup routine on it, obviously).
8. Spray with Feliway
The 8th step to stop cat spraying is spraying with feliway. Read the section below to understand how spraying with this remarkable substance can help make your cat a happy camper and take her off the “naughty list” at the same time.
9. USING COMFORT ZONE FELIWAY
Comfort Zone Feliway is a spray that contains synthetic feline facial pheromones, meaning that some enterprising scientist has found a way to bottle the calming, happy-making chemical that cats produce when they contentedly rub their facial glands on surfaces in their environment.
That smell relaxes a cat and puts her in a Zen-like state of mind; best of all, she would not dream of spraying where she smells facial pheromones.
Each Cat Thinks Feliway Is Her Very Own Pheromones
The beauty of this product is that it can fool even that supersensitive kitty nose into thinking that she herself rubbed on those surfaces where she encounters Feliway.
If a cat believes that she already facially rubbed on a location, she gets an immediate positive association and assumes it’s a safe, relaxing place. By using this product, you can tap into your cat’s instinctual system and turn a location with negative association into a positive, nurturing space.
Use Feliway along with behavioral modification techniques such as moving your cat’s dinner dish to the area she soiled. You can also engage in play sessions with your cat in an area she soiled, which helps to transform its association for her.
How To Use Feliway
First Clean the Area with Plain Water. The chemicals in Feliway can be neutralized by detergent or a specialized cleaning product, so just wash down the area with water and dry it.
Spray One Squirt of Feliway Twice a Day Over the Area the Cat Previously Sprayed. Since natural cat pheromones fade after 24 hours, by spraying Feliway twice a day you keep a consistently high level of pheromones in the air.
Don’t Limit the Feliway to Sprayed Areas. Spray prominent objects in the areas where your cat spends the most time—and especially in those areas where you may have noticed she is not really relaxed.
Use Only a Quick Little Spray on Each Spot. Do not overspray.
Spray Twice a Day for 30 Days. The product is designed to flood the objects and environment with a positive association. After 30 days, evaluate your cat’s response and decide whether to continue spraying twice a day for another 30 days or cut down to once a day.
Your eventual goal should be to reduce to spraying the areas every other day and then finally 2 or 3 times a week. Don’t rush it; slow and steady wins the race, and reordering your cat’s perception and changing habits takes time.
Spray at a Cat’s Nose Height. Direct the spray 8 inches up from the ground and about 4 inches away from the object.
Spray Table Legs, Chair Legs, the Corners of Furniture, and Doorways. Any nose-height vertical object should be given the Feliway treatment.
Create a Network of Calming Pheromones. Your goal is to spin a web of positive association over the cat so that if she feels anxious or agitated when she first enters a room and has the desire to spray, she will have changed her mind by the time she walks by all the vertical areas that smell of Feliway.
Comfort Zone Feliway also comes as a plug-in diffuser. The plug-in is especially useful if the spray-marked area is all in one room, but it can work wonders in any area where a cat has been feeling skittish or insecure.
10. Medications For Cat Spraying
If you have tried every suggestion in this section and your cat is still spraying and marking, there is something else you can try: antidepressant medication. Urine marking is one of the conditions in cats where doctors often feel that the best thing to do is try pharmacological treatment.
Studies show a 90 to 100 percent improvement in anxiety-driven urine marking in cats who took such medication. But of course the real solution is to address that underlying loneliness and boredom by giving the cat daily interactive play sessions. Relieve the cat’s situation by finding a friend or a pet sitter who will come in during the day when you are at work.
Since one of the underlying causes for spraying is thought to be stress, veterinarians have also tried antianxiety drugs with varying degrees of success. When first taken, drugs such as diazepam and buspirone significantly reduce spraying in up to 75 percent of cats. However, when the cats are taken off the drugs, they go right back to cat spraying behavior.
More recent studies have shown that fluoxetine and clomipramine are really effective, and cats are less likely to return to spraying when they are taken off these medications. Fluoxetine is a human antidepressant in the SSRI (selective serotonin reuptake inhibitor) family; clomipramine is a tricyclic antidepressant.
Neither drug is licensed for use on cats in the United States, although clomipramine is in Australia. This means that if your vet would like to try antidepressants on your cat, the prescription will be “off-label”—he’ll tell you that the drug has been shown to be effective but hasn’t been licensed for this particular use, and you will sign a consent form.
By the way, this is quite common in veterinary medicine because it is so costly to get a drug license for different uses that most drug companies do not apply for the animal use license.
11. Finding the cat spraying urine and cleaning it up
Buy a Black Light
A black light, which emits ultraviolet light, is a good tool for any cat owner to have because it allows you to look all over your house for signs that a cat has been marking or eliminating in the wrong places.
And you now know how to tell the difference between litter box avoidance, which is urinating on the floor, and spraying, which is done vertically against an upright surface.
Nature’s Miracle, the company that makes a urine stain remover, also makes a good black light (available at most pet stores) which will light up any urine stains in your house if you turn the other lights off and go on a hunt.
Look Absolutely Everywhere for Sprayed Areas
To use the black light you have to remove all other light sources and then turn on the black light. Some areas where a cat has urinated are visible and smellable; others are well hidden and may be old and dried.
But you have to clean and neutralize every single place any cat has ever urinated in your house to have any chance of putting an end to it.
Don’t Freak Out if the Black Light Shows Spots Everywhere
Black lights illuminate urine, but they also show the presence of any bodily fluids—so anywhere a cat had a bowel movement or threw up or even coughed up a hairball will shine under the black light.
You’re better off cleaning all of it, regardless of what it was, but don’t just assume that everything you see is urine. The chart below gives you some ideas of locations that need to be investigated.
I know, this probably isn’t what you signed on for when you fell in love with that white kitty with the green eyes . . . but nonetheless, here we are.
Places to Check for Urine Stains
• Closets • Under beds • Furniture (front, back and sides) and the wall behind it • Shoes and clothes (at bottom of closets) • Doormats • Baseboards and walls • Doorways • Behind doors • Litter box areas (around the box, walls, entry to room)
12. Cleanup the urine cat spraying 
1. Clean as You Find It or Mark It for Later
As you go around your house with the black light, if you don’t find too many stains, you may want to treat them right then and there.
However, if there are many stains, or if you’d rather check them all and then go back and attack them later, you can use the cleaning regimen below.
Start by marking any stain that the black light illuminates by using masking tape on the outline of the stain. Use the tape like one of those television crime-scene body outlines, marking the exact boundaries of the stain as the black light shows it to you.
Masking tape will stick anywhere and doesn’t leave a mark when you take it off.
2. Don’t Use Normal Household Cleaners
Regular household cleaners or carpet cleaners will cover up the smell of the urine, but they won’t mask the aroma enough for the sensitive nose of a cat.
Also, some cleaners have ammonia in them, which is similar to the odor of urine and so should always be avoided.
3. Urine-Neutralizing Products and How to Use Them
Buy a gallon container of Nature’s Miracle, Simple Solution, X-O or any cleaning product that is enzymatic and will neutralize the odor, not just clean or mask it.
You’re going to need a large amount of this stuff to give all the stains a good going-over, so it’s more economical to get the jumbo size and then transfer it into a manageable spray bottle.
If urine has soaked through to the carpet padding or the floor below, keep in mind that it all needs to be treated. You have to remove all traces of urine and its odor or the cat will want to go back to that location for a repeat performance.
Follow instructions on the bottle, but generally these products require that you blot up as much of the urine as possible with paper towels and then spray liberally with the enzymatic cleaner. Leave the product on for about 5 minutes, then blot up the excess cleaner with paper towels or rags.
Do not rub or you’ll be working the urine deeper into the carpet fibers. Leave layers of paper toweling over the stain with a weight on top to soak up the remaining fluid, or set up a small fan to blow it dry.
4. Figure Out Which Cat Is Spraying
To solve cat spraying in a multi-cat home, you need to figure out which cat is initiating the spraying. Unless you actually see the cat back up and spray something, there is a way you can “light up” an individual cat’s urine to identify it as hers.
First investigate the house with the black light so you can see what normal urine looks like. Then ask your veterinarian for some fluorescein capsules. These are filled with a nontoxic dye used for eye exams. Give this capsule to the cat you most suspect of being the sprayer and the dye will show up later in her urine.
Turn on the black light and the fluorescein-stained urine will jump out at you. If you don’t find any traces of lit-up urine, that means your suspect was not the sprayer. Now give a capsule to the next most likely culprit and so on, until you identify the perpetrator.
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Cat Spraying
Cat Spraying
Cat Spraying
Cat Spraying urine, also called marking, is a form of scent communication, in which a cat leaves scent markers to make a point, so to speak. Leaving a personal “message” through her scent glands or urine is one of the three basic ways that a cat expresses herself. The other ways that a cat can get her ideas across are vocalizing by using different “meow sounds,” or using body language.
There are two kinds of scent markers:
1-Pheromones
Pheromones are the “happy” marker. Pheromones come from the scent glands on her paws, head and cheeks, and a cat uses them to mark in a positive way.
These glandular secretions are chemicals that provide unique information about each cat and are part of a complex communication system among cats.
In the wild, pheromones serve many purposes, such as identifying members of a colony, marking territory, making sexual overtures, seeking information about unknown cats in the vicinity and testing the tendency toward aggression of other cats.
2-urine
Urine is the other scent marker. Cat Spraying urine is a natural behavior for a cat. She does it to mark territory, usually when she feels threatened or stressed.
No matter how you feel about it, urine marking is not something that we should judge as being “bad.” Cat Spraying is a normal, natural form of communicating for a cat.
Do not make the mistake of projecting human emotions or motivations onto her; your cat isn’t doing this to be spiteful or get back at you. Spraying is a central part of the social structure cats use to communicate and is a normal feline reaction to specific situations. Unfortunately, it fits in really poorly with sharing a home with humans.
How Scent Marking Is Done 
1.Marking with the Friendly Pheromones
A cat uses the glands in her cheeks to mark familiar territory that she considers her world. She rubs against objects in a familiar territory, leaving secretions of the scent glands on her face as a positive “message.” It is a sign that she feels confident and secure.
Depositing pheromones by rubbing her face along cabinets, against doorways, on chair and table legs—even on the people in her life—is a self-reassuring behavior that also has a calming effect on her. Cats have scent glands on their paws, too, which is one of the reasons they scratch.
Reaching up against a tree or other vertical landmark is an effective way to leave a calling card for other cats because it can be done at nose level, along with scratch marks to call attention to it. When you see dogs and cats studying marked areas with their noses, think of it as reading the Post-it Notes left by previous passers-by.
2.Marking with Urine
Cats mark with urine for the opposite reason they mark with facial pheromones. Urine is used because the cat is threatened or stressed, usually in a multi-cat environment. Both males and females spray, generally around issues of territory.
A high-ranking cat will spray in more than one location in the house to show how large her territory is and how important she is; a cat may spray when entering a new territory to announce her arrival and as a warning to others not to mess with her; an outdoor cat will often spray around the entire perimeter of her perceived domain.
3.How the Cat Sprays
Urine cat spraying is a highly ritualized behavior. The first thing a cat will do is back up to the targeted object. Her tail quivers and twitches. She will knead the ground with her front paws or tread with her back paws.
She may close her eyes and get an expression on her face that is almost like grinning. And then she will send a spray of urine out behind her and up against the chosen object.
She will purposely spray at about nose height for another cat—the point of putting it precisely at that level is so that any passing cat cannot miss her mark.
4.How Do Other Cats Get the Message?
Cats have a highly developed organ in the roof of their mouths called the vomeronasal organ, which allows them to detect social odors and sort them out.
Sometimes when you watch a cat sniffing an object you can tell that it has been marked by another cat because you will see a sort of smiling or grimacing expression as the cat sniffs.
This is referred to as the Flehmen reaction—the lips curl back as the cat sucks in air with the scent in it, running it past that special vomeronasal organ.
Cat Spraying Reasons
Cats always have a reason for cat spraying behavior, and once you know how to decipher the clues you may be able to alleviate the cause. Begin by collecting clues. Where is the cat spraying? When is it occurring?
1- If the spray is underneath a window or on the wall across from it, it’s possible that there is a strange cat appearing outside that window and causing your cat to make a territorial statement. Or if your cat is allowed outdoors and encounters a strange cat out there, upon her return your cat may feel compelled to spray her own territory for good measure.
2- If you’ve added a new cat to the household, that always shakes up the status quo; a resident cat is going to react, and it may be through spraying doorways or pathways.
3- Has a new baby or an older relative joined the household? Cats don’t like change of any kind, and a shift in the family makeup can inspire spraying.
4- Have you bought new furniture, or even rearranged the furniture you have? A cat may feel inspired to mark anything new in her kingdom—and if the furniture has an unfamiliar smell, that is a good reason to spray it, too.
5- Have you been away from home, perhaps traveling? When you return, watch out where you put your suitcase, your briefcase or even your overcoat: Anything that brings new and strange odors into the house is fair game because a cat may feel compelled to spray it as an intrusive, alien arrival.
6- Spraying can be triggered both by objects that the cat “needs” to cover with her odor or as a generalized stress reaction to household change. One thing seems to be true, unfortunately: Almost anything and everything can be an inspiration for a cat to spray.
Causes of cat spraying
Sighting of a strange cat outside
Hierarchy issues with another cat or a dog
Too many cats sharing a house
Loss of a cat in a multi-cat household
Loss of a human in the house—death, divorce, kid going to college
Separation anxiety if bonded too closely to you
New family member or pet arrives
Reaching sexual maturity in un neutered males
The cat’s natural inclination—personality • Scent of unknown cat on you or your clothing
Move to new house or renovation
Unknown human visitors • Change in significant human’s schedule
Arrival of new furniture or other large objects
Cat Spraying as a personal message to you
1- The Cat Marks on Your Bed
It is really upsetting to come home and find that your cat has urinated (or worse) on your bed. People often misunderstand the reason that a cat would choose their bed, so they assign evil motives to the cat’s choice when what is actually motivating a cat is pure instinct.
Your bed is a prime target because you lie on it for hours, building up a fragrant scent. Your cat does not anoint your bed to get back at you or to display anger.
There are cat behaviorists who have come up with a surprising new theory about why cats urinate on their people’s bed when the people are unavailable (either out of the house or fast asleep). Relieving herself on your bed actually feeds an emotional need for your cat.
Apparently, the chemicals in urine seem to comfort a cat while she waits for her person. A cat who does this may also be looking for attention or food, but whichever the case, the odor of the urine appears to have a soothing quality.
Fortunately, there is an easy fix for this particular problem: Shut your bedroom door when you are out or asleep. I just hope you figure out the logistics of this problem before the cat urinates all the way through to your mattress—because then you have a serious cleanup challenge on your hands.
2- Separation Anxiety in Lonely Cats
A solitary cat who gets too closely bonded to you can become anxious when you leave her alone. However, cats do not exhibit what we might think of as classic signs of separation anxiety:
They won’t destroy objects in the house or take out their frustration on doors or other parts of the house itself.
Instead, a lonely cat will stop eating, groom herself excessively or mark with urine.
A cat suffering from separation anxiety not only will miss the box but will especially mark the personal property (such as the bed) of the person she is so closely bonded to.
Ways to stop cat spraying
There are several things you can do right off the bat to lower the likelihood of spraying in your house. Your overall goal is to create a calmer, more secure environment for your cat so she doesn’t have stress and anxiety.
After you read this article, you will get to the real cure for the nightmare of spraying: a product called Comfort Zone Feliway. The philosophy behind using this product is based on the fact that cats do not urine-mark where they facially rub.
1. Neuter and Spay
The first step to stop cat spraying is neutering the cat. All Cats I hope this would already be the case, but if for some reason you have unneutered males or unspayed females, please make an appointment at the vet to correct that right away.
2. Have Same-Sex Cats Only
The 2nd step to stop cat spraying is having same sex cats only. There are studies that show that an all-male cat population will spray much less if there are no females around to inspire their territorial marking. Female cats will spray equally whichever the sex of their housemate cat.
3. Introduce Environmental Change Very Slowly
The 3rd step to stop cat spraying is Introducing Environmental Change Very Slowly. Any physical changes to a cat’s world can trigger anxiety-related marking. If you are going to get new furniture, consider getting one piece at a time.
You can even cover the furniture with a cloth that you have first rubbed all over your cat (to pick up her scent) or sprayed with Comfort Zone Feliway.
4. Introduce New Household Members
The 4th step to stop cat spraying is Introducing new household members. Slowly Before bringing home a new baby, first “break the news” to your cat’s olfactory system by bringing home items of clothing that the baby has already worn.
Put a piece of the infant’s unwashed clothing wherever your cat hangs out—on her climbing tree, on her bed—to get her accustomed to the baby’s smell ahead of time so his actual arrival isn’t such a shock.
5. Reduce Conflict in a Multi-Cat Household
The 5th step to stop cat spraying is reducing conflict in a multi-cat household. In a group that lives together, a lot of marking and spraying is directed at other cats. By reducing any potential issues over territory, food resources and litter boxes, you will lessen the need to spray and stake a claim.
Have one litter box for each of your cats, plus one “for the house”; multiple food and water bowls help as well, all as far apart as possible.
6. Close Curtains on Windows Where Strange Cats Walk Past
The 6th step to stop cat spraying is closing curtains on windows. This is a pretty logical fix: If your cat cannot see another cat strolling past, she won’t have the need to mark in response to it.
7. Change the Cat’s Association with the Area
The 7th step to stop cat spraying is Change the Cat’s Association with the Area. Cats will not eliminate or spray where they eat or where they have marked with their “happy pheromones” from their facial glands, and you can make this work in your favor.
This simple fix can be the most important thing you can do. Take your cat’s food bowl and put it right over an area where she has been spraying (after you do the whole cleanup routine on it, obviously).
8. Spray with Feliway
The 8th step to stop cat spraying is spraying with feliway. Read the section below to understand how spraying with this remarkable substance can help make your cat a happy camper and take her off the “naughty list” at the same time.
9. USING COMFORT ZONE FELIWAY
Comfort Zone Feliway is a spray that contains synthetic feline facial pheromones, meaning that some enterprising scientist has found a way to bottle the calming, happy-making chemical that cats produce when they contentedly rub their facial glands on surfaces in their environment.
That smell relaxes a cat and puts her in a Zen-like state of mind; best of all, she would not dream of spraying where she smells facial pheromones.
Each Cat Thinks Feliway Is Her Very Own Pheromones
The beauty of this product is that it can fool even that supersensitive kitty nose into thinking that she herself rubbed on those surfaces where she encounters Feliway.
If a cat believes that she already facially rubbed on a location, she gets an immediate positive association and assumes it’s a safe, relaxing place. By using this product, you can tap into your cat’s instinctual system and turn a location with negative association into a positive, nurturing space.
Use Feliway along with behavioral modification techniques such as moving your cat’s dinner dish to the area she soiled. You can also engage in play sessions with your cat in an area she soiled, which helps to transform its association for her.
How To Use Feliway
First Clean the Area with Plain Water. The chemicals in Feliway can be neutralized by detergent or a specialized cleaning product, so just wash down the area with water and dry it.
Spray One Squirt of Feliway Twice a Day Over the Area the Cat Previously Sprayed. Since natural cat pheromones fade after 24 hours, by spraying Feliway twice a day you keep a consistently high level of pheromones in the air.
Don’t Limit the Feliway to Sprayed Areas. Spray prominent objects in the areas where your cat spends the most time—and especially in those areas where you may have noticed she is not really relaxed.
Use Only a Quick Little Spray on Each Spot. Do not overspray.
Spray Twice a Day for 30 Days. The product is designed to flood the objects and environment with a positive association. After 30 days, evaluate your cat’s response and decide whether to continue spraying twice a day for another 30 days or cut down to once a day.
Your eventual goal should be to reduce to spraying the areas every other day and then finally 2 or 3 times a week. Don’t rush it; slow and steady wins the race, and reordering your cat’s perception and changing habits takes time.
Spray at a Cat’s Nose Height. Direct the spray 8 inches up from the ground and about 4 inches away from the object.
Spray Table Legs, Chair Legs, the Corners of Furniture, and Doorways. Any nose-height vertical object should be given the Feliway treatment.
Create a Network of Calming Pheromones. Your goal is to spin a web of positive association over the cat so that if she feels anxious or agitated when she first enters a room and has the desire to spray, she will have changed her mind by the time she walks by all the vertical areas that smell of Feliway.
Comfort Zone Feliway also comes as a plug-in diffuser. The plug-in is especially useful if the spray-marked area is all in one room, but it can work wonders in any area where a cat has been feeling skittish or insecure.
10. Medications For Cat Spraying
If you have tried every suggestion in this section and your cat is still spraying and marking, there is something else you can try: antidepressant medication. Urine marking is one of the conditions in cats where doctors often feel that the best thing to do is try pharmacological treatment.
Studies show a 90 to 100 percent improvement in anxiety-driven urine marking in cats who took such medication. But of course the real solution is to address that underlying loneliness and boredom by giving the cat daily interactive play sessions. Relieve the cat’s situation by finding a friend or a pet sitter who will come in during the day when you are at work.
Since one of the underlying causes for spraying is thought to be stress, veterinarians have also tried antianxiety drugs with varying degrees of success. When first taken, drugs such as diazepam and buspirone significantly reduce spraying in up to 75 percent of cats. However, when the cats are taken off the drugs, they go right back to cat spraying behavior.
More recent studies have shown that fluoxetine and clomipramine are really effective, and cats are less likely to return to spraying when they are taken off these medications. Fluoxetine is a human antidepressant in the SSRI (selective serotonin reuptake inhibitor) family; clomipramine is a tricyclic antidepressant.
Neither drug is licensed for use on cats in the United States, although clomipramine is in Australia. This means that if your vet would like to try antidepressants on your cat, the prescription will be “off-label”—he’ll tell you that the drug has been shown to be effective but hasn’t been licensed for this particular use, and you will sign a consent form.
By the way, this is quite common in veterinary medicine because it is so costly to get a drug license for different uses that most drug companies do not apply for the animal use license.
11. Finding the cat spraying urine and cleaning it up
Buy a Black Light
A black light, which emits ultraviolet light, is a good tool for any cat owner to have because it allows you to look all over your house for signs that a cat has been marking or eliminating in the wrong places.
And you now know how to tell the difference between litter box avoidance, which is urinating on the floor, and spraying, which is done vertically against an upright surface.
Nature’s Miracle, the company that makes a urine stain remover, also makes a good black light (available at most pet stores) which will light up any urine stains in your house if you turn the other lights off and go on a hunt.
Look Absolutely Everywhere for Sprayed Areas
To use the black light you have to remove all other light sources and then turn on the black light. Some areas where a cat has urinated are visible and smellable; others are well hidden and may be old and dried.
But you have to clean and neutralize every single place any cat has ever urinated in your house to have any chance of putting an end to it.
Don’t Freak Out if the Black Light Shows Spots Everywhere
Black lights illuminate urine, but they also show the presence of any bodily fluids—so anywhere a cat had a bowel movement or threw up or even coughed up a hairball will shine under the black light.
You’re better off cleaning all of it, regardless of what it was, but don’t just assume that everything you see is urine. The chart below gives you some ideas of locations that need to be investigated.
I know, this probably isn’t what you signed on for when you fell in love with that white kitty with the green eyes . . . but nonetheless, here we are.
Places to Check for Urine Stains
• Closets • Under beds • Furniture (front, back and sides) and the wall behind it • Shoes and clothes (at bottom of closets) • Doormats • Baseboards and walls • Doorways • Behind doors • Litter box areas (around the box, walls, entry to room)
12. Cleanup the urine cat spraying 
1. Clean as You Find It or Mark It for Later
As you go around your house with the black light, if you don’t find too many stains, you may want to treat them right then and there.
However, if there are many stains, or if you’d rather check them all and then go back and attack them later, you can use the cleaning regimen below.
Start by marking any stain that the black light illuminates by using masking tape on the outline of the stain. Use the tape like one of those television crime-scene body outlines, marking the exact boundaries of the stain as the black light shows it to you.
Masking tape will stick anywhere and doesn’t leave a mark when you take it off.
2. Don’t Use Normal Household Cleaners
Regular household cleaners or carpet cleaners will cover up the smell of the urine, but they won’t mask the aroma enough for the sensitive nose of a cat.
Also, some cleaners have ammonia in them, which is similar to the odor of urine and so should always be avoided.
3. Urine-Neutralizing Products and How to Use Them
Buy a gallon container of Nature’s Miracle, Simple Solution, X-O or any cleaning product that is enzymatic and will neutralize the odor, not just clean or mask it.
You’re going to need a large amount of this stuff to give all the stains a good going-over, so it’s more economical to get the jumbo size and then transfer it into a manageable spray bottle.
If urine has soaked through to the carpet padding or the floor below, keep in mind that it all needs to be treated. You have to remove all traces of urine and its odor or the cat will want to go back to that location for a repeat performance.
Follow instructions on the bottle, but generally these products require that you blot up as much of the urine as possible with paper towels and then spray liberally with the enzymatic cleaner. Leave the product on for about 5 minutes, then blot up the excess cleaner with paper towels or rags.
Do not rub or you’ll be working the urine deeper into the carpet fibers. Leave layers of paper toweling over the stain with a weight on top to soak up the remaining fluid, or set up a small fan to blow it dry.
4. Figure Out Which Cat Is Spraying
To solve cat spraying in a multi-cat home, you need to figure out which cat is initiating the spraying. Unless you actually see the cat back up and spray something, there is a way you can “light up” an individual cat’s urine to identify it as hers.
First investigate the house with the black light so you can see what normal urine looks like. Then ask your veterinarian for some fluorescein capsules. These are filled with a nontoxic dye used for eye exams. Give this capsule to the cat you most suspect of being the sprayer and the dye will show up later in her urine.
Turn on the black light and the fluorescein-stained urine will jump out at you. If you don’t find any traces of lit-up urine, that means your suspect was not the sprayer. Now give a capsule to the next most likely culprit and so on, until you identify the perpetrator.
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