olivesewing-patterns

[olivesewing-patterns]

Here a finished bodice with the shoulder style lines. I have also done a neckline one but I haven’t had any pictures of it as of yet.

Unit 1 is done now! @barnsleycollegefashionrocks

[olivesewing-patterns]

Following up my last post, I cut out the pattern pieces removing the whole of the waist and back dart. For the bust dart, we had to cut down the middle of it and move it over & stick down to take it out completely. After this I will be cutting this out on the fabric leaving the seam allowances in the correct places. @barnsleycollegefashionrocks

[olivesewing-patterns]

In the last lesson, we learnt how to draft a pattern including style lines. We used our basic bodices (front and back) with the darts included (waist, bust & back) to then show how to re purpose the already made pattern into a style lined bodice. With different coloured pens, I mapped out where to cut & labelling the different pieces to show the side front/back and front/back with how many cuts to makes @barnsleycollegefashionrocks

[olivesewing-patterns]

Here are some practices of hems: pre-fold top stitch, overlocked top stitch and curved top stitch.

Pre-fold - first I turned over 1cm of the fabric, pressed it, then another 1cm and pressed again. After that I sewed down the edge of the fold to keep it in place

Overlocked - I overlocked down the edge of the fabric, folded it over 2cm and pressed, after that to keep it in place I did a straight stitch at the side of the overlocking.

Curved - to do this I had to fold over the edges as I sewed as you can’t press the curves in place as it’ll lose its shape. So, I sewed through the middle of the overlooking as I was turning the fabric after every little bit of sewing. However I think I didn’t turn over the fabric enough and did it too small. @barnsleycollegefashionrocks

[olivesewing-patterns]

Here are the finished bodice samples with the new dart placements showing the right and wrong side. @barnsleycollegefashionrocks

[olivesewing-patterns]

These are the bodice patterns that I used to practise manipulating darts. On the first one I took out the bust dart and made it into a shoulder dart and the second I swapped the bust dart for the shoulder again, then waist dart for neck dart. @barnsleycollegefashionrocks

[olivesewing-patterns]

The bodice is complete. Sewn & overlocked. With back, bust & waist darts. @barnsleycollegefashionrocks

[olivesewing-patterns]

Here are my finished darts, all pressed. Due to having tjem so close together it manipulated the fabric to lay in a shape created from the darts therefore I found it difficult to press them. However, when I sew a garment, this won’t be the case then. @barnsleycollegefashionrocks

[olivesewing-patterns]

Here are the open & closed seam with a simple straight stitch to keep the seams closed and neat. @barnsleycollegefashionrocks

[olivesewing-patterns]

these are my first attempts of the open and closed seam. For the first example (open), first you overlock the edge of your fabrics, then sew them together leaving a 1cm seam allowance. When pressing, you open up the seam to keep it neat & flat. However, on the closed seam, you sew together your two fabrics first leaving a 1.5cm seam allowance to then overlock the excess off. When pressing, you press the seam towards the back of the garment. @barnsleycollegefashionrocks

[olivesewing-patterns]

These are some examples of my first uses on the college industrials getting used to the machines and practicing our sewing to get it more steady and precise. First, we practiced on paper then moved onto calico to use the lockstitch for the straight lines and then overlocker for when you’re cleaning up any seams etc to stop freying. @barnsleycollegefashionrocks

[olivesewing-patterns]

Here are the finished results with the darts drawn connecting the dots to the balance notches in place and the X showing which is the wrong side. @barnsleycollegefashionrocks

[olivesewing-patterns]

in pattern cutting we learnt the steps of making a pattern then applying it to our fabric to create the starting of a garment. We learnt the basics of how to add a dart , balance notches and the straight of grain to our pattern. It is very Important that both ends of the straight of grain match up identically to the selvage edge. To see the dart on the calico, we put pins through the marked holes and turned the fabric around and drew a mark with pencil. For the bottom of the dart, we cut little snips where the notches are so we can put them together for a more precise result. When cutting out the pattern, you leave a 1cm seam allowance on the sides you will be connecting to the other cut out. Also, it is important to notice when patterns have different cut amounts and say „on the fold“ which means to cut on the fold therefore you’ll get a mirror of the pattern you’re cutting out. A half of a bodice will turn into a full front. @barnsleycollegefashionrocks