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Webisode one in our “Surfing Over Reefs” series. “Bailing your Board” will teach you the techniques of bailing your board in big waves over shallow reefs that will save your body, your board and your legrope. Christie Carter in association with WavePark Resort Mentawai discusses and demonstrates the best techniques when the waves are too big, or the reef too shallow to duckdive. Slow motion videography with voice over will help you to practice your techniques.
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MENTAWAI LEGISLATES CONFLICT OF INTEREST
Updated 15 December, 2017
HISTORY:
On 8th May 2015, the chief of all Mentawai signed into law the revision(s) of County Law 16. Originally, PERDA # 16 was specifically written to address tourism in Mentawai, but was considered flawed because of language deemed “monopolistic” by the higher, provincial governor of West Sumatra. So after 6 years of revisions, it was a relief to many to finally have some basis of law with which to approach the increasingly out-of-control development seen in the islands.
Within the law, the chief reserved the right to allow unlicensed businesses to operate for 2 years from the date of signature without needing any further permission from the government. Included in the same law, there are also very clear instructions on how to apply for licenses and what the pre-requisites are for obtaining permission to operate. Finally, it is also clear what the administrative sanctions and fines are for businesses that continue to operate without permission after the 2 year cut-off, including written warnings, fines, and temporary freezing of business operations.
In a separate subsection of this all-encompassing tourism law, the government created a new activity-based tax, and in August of 2016, the government started collecting their Rp. 1 million / surfer / 15 days. This tax was to be paid by surfing tourists upon arrival in Mentawai, and they were given a ticket, a plastic bracelet and allowed to surf for a 15 day period. Throughout the remainder of the 2016 season, the tax collection was poorly enforced due to lack of enforcement resources (no boats, no staff), but the tax was supported and paid by licensed resorts, and the West Sumatra Charter Boat Association (AKSSB). Over Rp. 4,000 million ($300,00 USD) was collected prior to the year ending.
Upon the start of the 2017 surf season, the Mentawai government had created teams of “Tourism Information��� officers who were responsible for enforcing tax payment, and these teams had the boats required to enforce payment. By March 2017, the government was collecting almost Rp. 1 billion rupiah ($80,000) per month from visiting surfers.
CURRENTLY:
On 8th May, 2017, the two year window for unlicensed businesses to operate without a license had passed, and according to PERDA 16, these businesses would start receiving warnings, fines and eventually temporary freezing.
But nothing happened.
A government tourism source with knowledge of the situation but unwilling to be named says that according to his office’s data, “90% of all Mentawai resorts are unlicensed”. This same source says that none of the government offices involved in enforcing the law are willing to take the first step towards levying administrative sanctions, in case “they become a target”. Tourism, Licensing and Police departments are all putting up excuses as to why they can’t take action, although they have the law, the resources, and plenty of data to support the law enforcement.
There is an obvious reason for inaction by the Mentawai government:
Tourists do not surf in Mentawai in a vacuum. Mentawai businesses support the surfing activity by providing transport, food and accommodation in exchange for money. Without these businesses, the tourists would not be able to stay in Mentawai, and therefore would not be paying their surfer tax to the government.
So it seems quite likely that the Mentawai government has legislated its own conflict of interest into PERDA 16. It is receiving lots of money from surfers every month, and if the government fulfills its pledge to enforce the law, it would require shutting down illegal businesses, which would therefore reduce the number of surfers and therefore reduce tax collection that the government is receiving. It is now clear that the government will never take action to enforce their law, as long as it continues receiving money from surfers even if those same surfers are supporting illegal businesses. Essentially the Mentawai government has legitimized illegitimate businesses by allowing them to host tax-paying surfers.
No wonder individual government employees do not want to be the one to take action: lest they become a target of the Chief, and known as the person who stopped newly found tax money flowing into the county coffers.
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Bahasa Indonesia:
MENTAWAI MERESMIKAN KONFLIK KEPENTINGAN DIRI
Terkini 15 Desember, 2017
SEJARAH:
Pada tanggal 8 Mei 2015, Bupati Kepulauan Mentawai menandatangani undang-undang revisi Undang-undang Kabupaten 16. PERDA # 16 secara khusus ditulis untuk menangani pariwisata di Mentawai. PERDA tersebut yg. versi aslinya namun dianggap cacat karena bahasa yang dianggap "monopoli" oleh Propinsi SUMBAR. Jadi setelah 6 tahun revisi, sangat melegakan bagi banyak orang untuk akhirnya memiliki dasar hukum mengcontrol perkembangan yang berjamur-jamur tanpa batas (out of control).
Di dalam undang-undang tersebut, Bupati berhak untuk mengizinkan bisnis yg belum punya izin beroperasi selama 2 tahun sejak tanggal penandatanganan tanpa memerlukan izin lebih lanjut dari pemerintah. Termasuk dalam undang-undang yang sama, ada juga petunjuk yang sangat jelas tentang bagaimana mengajukan permohonan izin tersebut, dan persyaratan untuk mendapatkan izin untuk beroperasi selanjutnya. Akhirnya, juga jelas tentang sanksi administratif dan denda bagi bisnis yang terus beroperasi tanpa izin setelah pemotongan 2 tahun, termasuk peringatan tertulis, denda, dan pembekuan operasi bisnis sementara.
Sekaligus, dalam undang-undang pariwisata yg resmikan oleh Bupati, pemerintah menciptakan pajak berbasis aktivitas pariwisata selencar ombak. Pada tanggal 1 Agustus 2016, pemerintah mulai mengumpulkan Rp. 1 juta / peselencar / 15 hari. Pajak ini harus dibayar oleh wisatawan selancar saat tiba di Mentawai, dan mereka diberi tiket, gelang plastik dan diperbolehkan berselancar untuk periode 15 hari. Sepanjang periode Agustus – Nopember 2016, pemungutan pajak tersebut kurang diberlakukan karena kurangnya sumber daya penegakan hukum (tidak ada kapal, tidak ada staf), namun pajak tersebut didukung dan dibayar oleh resor resmi, dan Asosiasi Kapal Selencar Sumatera Barat (AKSSB). Walaupun kurang efisien dan kurang control, pemerintah menerima PAD lebih dari Rp. 4 Miliar ($ 300,00 USD) sebelum akhir tahun.
Pada awal musim surfing 2017, pemerintah Mentawai telah menciptakan tim petugas "Tourism Information Center" yang bertanggung jawab untuk menegakkan pembayaran pajak, dan tim-tim ini memiliki speedboat yang dibutuhkan untuk memberlakukan pembayaran. Pada bulan Maret 2017, Pemda Mentawai mengumpulkan hampir Rp. 1 Miliar rupiah ($ 80.000) PER BULAN dari kapal pesiar dan resort yg. menerima turis peselancar beroperasi.
SAAT INI:
Pada tanggal 8 Mei 2017, jendela dua tahun untuk bisnis beroperasi tanpa izin telah berlalu, dan menurut PERDA 16, bisnis liar ini seharusnya mulai menerima peringatan, denda dan akhirnya pembekuan sementara.
Tapi tidak ada yang terjadi, dan semua binis yg. liar masih boleh usaha seperti biasa.
Data dari kantor Dinas Pariwisata mengambarkan 90% dari semua resor penginapan Mentawai tahun 2017 tidak punya izin. Sumber yang sama mengatakan bahwa tidak satupun instansi atau pegawai Pemda Mentawai yang terlibat dalam penegakan hukum bersedia mengambil langkah pertama untuk mengajukan sanksi administratif, jika "mereka menjadi sasaran tembak".
Dinas Pariwisata, KP2T dan SATPOL PP semua mengajukan alasan mengapa mereka tidak dapat bertindak, walaupun mereka memiliki undang-undang, sumber daya, dan cukup data untuk mendukung penegak hukum. Jadi kenapa kelambanannya?
Alasan kenapa Pemda Mentawai tidak bertindak PERDA 16:
Wisatawan tidak berselancar di Mentawai dalam ruang hampa. Bisnis Mentawai mendukung aktivitas berselancar dengan menyediakan transportasi, makanan dan akomodasi dengan imbalan pendapatan uang. Tanpa usaha2 ini, para wisatawan tidak akan bisa tinggal di Mentawai, dan karena itu tidak akan membayar pajak surfer mereka kepada pemerintah.
Jadi nampaknya pemerintah Mentawai telah mengatur sendiri benturan kepentingannya dengan PERDA 16. Pemda menerima PAD dari pajak peselancar setiap bulannya, dan jika pemerintah memenuhi janjinya untuk menegakkan undang-undang PERDA 16, maka pemerintah harus menutup usaha ilegal. Kalau jumlah peselancar mengurangi, pajak peselencar akan secara langsung mengurangi juga.
Sekarang jelas bahwa pemerintah tidak akan pernah mengambil tindakan untuk menegakkan hukum mereka, asalkan terus menerima uang dari peselancar bahkan jika peselancar yang sama mendukung bisnis ilegal. Intinya, pemerintah Mentawai telah melegitimasi usaha tidak sah dengan mengizinkan mereka menjadi tuan rumah peselancar dengan pembayaran pajak.
Tak heran bila pegawai pemerintah tidak ingin menjadi orang yang mengambil tindakan: jangan sampai mereka sendiri menjadi sasaran tembak Bupati, dan dikenal sebagai orang yang menghentikan PAD sumber baru ini mengalir ke kas daerah.
#mentawai#perda#sumbar#indonesia#surfing#tax#resort#charter boat#pemda#bupati#pariwisata#tourism#akssb#phri
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You’re as much to blame as the guy who lit the fire.
So here's the thing I've been thinking about lately. Indonesia's forests are burning, many are breathing the haze. It's terrible for our health, our businesses, our environment. Yes, it is a disaster of proportions which people will fail to explain.

But if I hear one more time that this problem is just Indonesia's (education, corruption, apathy), or just palm oil's (capitalism, greed, blah blah), or “mainly it’s a m*&^$%#r f*&%##n huge ‘Godzilla El Nino’”, I'm going to.... Ahhhhhhhhh! Do something crazy!
Hello? Welcome to the future people. We all contribute to a slowly warming planet, where droughts and massive fires are going to last longer than they would otherwise. “Godzilla El Nino”? Try “Extinction El Nino”.
Have you ever tried burning anything in the tropics during normal weather conditions? Not easy, because it is usually wet. Fires can’t burn for months on end like this, unless something is wrong. Just like in 1997 and 2006, these abnormal fires are happening because things are abnormal. There's not enough moisture and too much heat, for starters.

Trying to tell me that Indonesians are to blame for this mess is kind of like saying Alaskans drilling for oil are to blame for shrinking glaciers.
The thing about this planet is that it is the only one you will ever see, taste, feel, touch and smell. We're all on it together, and in it together. We need to make some smart decisions soon about how we will prevent things like “feedback loops”. Fire makes more carbon monoxide and methane which are terrible greenhouse gases. The gases trap more heat, which warms the planet, makes droughts more extreme, and when the fires start, they last longer and burn hotter. And so goes the feedback loop.
Don’t go blaming other people in other places for things which are directly attributable to yourself. You’re as much to blame as the guy who lit the fire, because without you, me, and all of our industrialized ancestors, rain would have put out his fire long ago. Criminals are burning forests because we enabled them to.
Are you going to miss those Bornean Orangutan and Sumatran Tigers when they are all burnt to a crisp? Stop buying gasoline. Otherwise, suck it up and with a full and willing heart say to all of your friends, “I am also to blame for this tragedy.” Or #blamemetoo

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Mentawai government is broken.
So the other day, 5 guys dismount from a dugout canoe and request a meeting with a certain resort owner in the Mentawai islands.
"Hello, we are from the tax department, and we are here to ask you to pay your taxes. Our parliament has finally decided to approve the 10% hotel and 10% restaurant tax, so we have the power to collect taxes now."
"Welcome to the resort, nice to meet you. Yes, we always pay our taxes, because we believe that the Mentawai government cannot operate without taxes. Congratulations on your new law and power. That sounds very good for Mentawai. I will cooperate with you."
"OK, can you please sign these forms, and this letter, acknowledging that you have received our letters and forms? We will also take your picture".
"Sure. I will do everything that you ask. There is something I would also like to ask of you. Can you please provide me with a list of other resorts that you plan to visit and collect taxes from, because there are a lot of businesses here that host guests at their resorts?"
"Ummm, we have already visited these other 3 resorts."
"Ok, but what about the other 9?"
"Which 9?"
"The other 9 resorts that are doing business in this neighborhood. You know, owned and run by foreigners, advertised on the internet, booked by international agents, making hundreds of thousands of dollars per year. Those ones."
"Oh, we don't have a list. When we leave here, we're going to go over there (pointing), because it looks like another resort over there."
"But surely the tourism department gave you a list of businesses and their locations to visit?"
"No, we don't work with the tourism department, we are the tax department."
"OK, what about the licensing department? Did they give you any information?"
"No."
"How do you know who is a business, and who are private interests?"
"Look it's not my job to know who is licensed. We are the tax department. We have this local guide from the village and he knows all the businesses here that make money from tourists, and we are going to ask them to pay their taxes."
"Yes, but it is illegal to collect taxes from somebody if they aren't a registered business."
"I don't care. We don't communicate with the licensing department or the tourism department. Our job is to drive in that little boat to all the resorts and give them these letters. If they don't pay their taxes, we will put up a big banner in front of the resort or restaurant that says 'do not sleep or eat here, this business does not pay taxes'. Then we wait another couple of months. If the business still does not pay tax, or if the banner is moved or ripped, we will arrest the resort owner."
"But how do you know it is a resort?"
"Because our guide says so."
"So what about if the resort owner says they had 1 guest, but your guides knows they had 100 guests, how will you cross-check the information?"
"Huh?"
"Where will you get your data from to know whether or not the correct amount of tax is being paid?"
"We will know."
"Just like you know whether or not they have a license, because you don't communicate with other departments? Don't you think you could get in trouble if people know you are taxing unlicensed businesses?"
"Look, I just want to get your photo and your signature and get this finished so I can go home."
Mentawai will never succeed as an autonomous regency as long as Jakarta continues to prop up and subsidize the floundering attempts at regulating, enforcing, taxing and controlling any of the industries that have made Mentawai their home.
If tax revenue is used to pay the government's employee wages, they will do their jobs properly. If there is no motivation for them to collect revenue, they will sit in their offices, ignoring their bosses, ignoring other departments, and checking their facebook every 5 minutes.
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Finally, some justice
According to the local papers, 2 bomb boats were caught last week while bombing reefs in Southern Siberut. The reports say 13 criminals were being held in the Tuapejat jail, ready for processing. http://padangekspres.co.id/?news=berita&id=48488
All I can say is, "about time". Since 2010 we've had boats bombing our reefs, and an incalculable amount of damage has been done to our ecosystem.
Here is one of the "Mentawai Madness" episodes that chronicles one location that was bombed just 48 hours before entering the water with a camera: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_JglSkSEEc
Attached is a photo of bomb boat # 1, her crew tied up in the bow, wishing they had been a good boy like their mother asked.

We're hoping that the success of the Mentawai government cracking down on these illegal activities will send a message out to the owners of these boats not to come down this way again. Good riddance!

This is what they will be up against if they decide to try their luck again.
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In an effort to publish something beautiful:
A brief survey around our island resort complete with a John Mayer soundtrack.
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This is an attempt at stopping the bombs, I really hope you can help me.
For over 1 month now, the playgrounds area has had at least 3 boats every day bombing our reefs. When the weather is good, they can do over 5 cycles of bombing and collecting the dead fish in a day. Each cycle is between 5 - 8 bombs.�� Just doing a low average we calculate over 2250 bombs have been exploded in our 15 mile radius area. You can see what this looks like from footage shot this morning. We couldn't go swimming in the ocean on our lunch break today because there are bombs going off 200 meters from our resort. I'm not exaggerating. Those of you who have been here, the footage on the link was from the north side of the sand island, directly in front of the resort. This is one of our favorite snorkeling spots in the past. Watching the video, I'm sure it has been obliterated now. HOW YOU CAN HELP. Please share the video link with whoever you think can help to get the word out. I need this posted on every site, everybody's FB and linked as if there is no tomorrow. The goal is to help Indonesians feel strongly about protecting their waters from bomb boats, and nudge them into action. So any of your Indonesian friends with connections, websites or blogs, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE forward it onto them with the instructions to do the same again. I want to see 1,000,000 viewed and 500,000 comments by tomorrow morning please. As you'll have noticed, I have scorched the personal introspective stuff on the video so that I'm not recognizable. I'm sure I don't need to tell you why this is. Both me and the resort name should be erased from any record online, as these are nasty people, and who knows what they are capable of. Pirates in every sense of the word. If there is one positive difference YOU are going to make online today, please spend an hour of your life and get this to as many people who you think will make a difference. We've tried everything else, and the bomb boats are still here. I think in the age of social media, we can do better. Time is against us. Another 28 bombs have gone off that I have heard whilst sitting here writing to you and waiting for the upload to finish. Please reply if you want bahasa copy of this email to share with your friends. Thanks so much for your time and consideration, Me.
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Some people have been trying to tell me not to let you fine people know what is going on out here, for fear that it might make them look bad, or worse - FEEL bad!
My response:
I would like to make it clear that I don't agree with Pak ****'s assessment of what is the correct method for publicizing (or not) the situation regarding dynamite fishermen in the Mentawai Islands. At this point his government has left me with no option but to attack the problem from the ground up. This means making it clear in the public eye that there are serious issues that the government is not being serious about, and there are actions needed which aren't being taken. If this involves making the government or (Pak **** personally) feel uncomfortable with their inaction and apathy, I could care less. He needs to understand, that until he provides me with options on how to deal with this problem, I will seek to gain action through the only method which has worked in the past: publication and social media.
It certainly does my business no good by advertising death and destruction, but neither does it do my business good having no coral or fish left for my tourists to snorkel with.
If you care, please leave a comment on the youtube channel, here on the blog or just get pissed off and punch something until it hurts, like me.
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"Not enough carts" a symbol of apathy in Tourism Development
Flying into the Padang airport last night was a shock. Making my way to the carousel to collect my baggage, I noticed that a plane had landed prior to ours but their luggage had yet to arrive, so they were probably 10 minutes ahead.
All year long I've noticed that every time I arrive in Padang, the trolley numbers get less and less, and yet the porters ALWAYS seem to have enough trolleys. Last night marked the first time that our entire plane load of passengers was unable to use a trolley because there were none left. I counted at least 50% of the people in the room needed a trolley and couldn't get one. Of the passengers that could get a trolley, 50% couldn't fit their luggage on because the trolleys were broken.

I asked security about it, and the short answer was that the head of the airport had retired, and there was yet to be a replacement. If I wanted to go find a trolley, I could leave my bags with him, walk out in the parking lot and find one myself. I told him I was a guest, not an employee, and that maybe he should go and get some trolleys.
I like using the porters, and I support them, but I get pretty stubborn when the situation arises when somebody tells me I have to do something, and I don't have a choice. So I HAVE to use the porters now, because they are the only ones with the trolleys! The guy in this photo got my $8.
My friend waiting to pick me up was confused because of the last 3 flights that had landed including mine, the information on the computer screen was "information pending", even though one of the three had landed over an hour ago.
This to me is so symptomatic of West Sumatra tourism. They say that they want to get more tourists to come here, and yet taxi drivers refuse to use their time-meters and will abuse and yell at tourists who refuse to pay extortionist rates 200% above what they are anywhere else. West Sumatra wonders why there aren't more tourists, when their beaches are littered with rubbish that washes up everyday. The INTERNATIONAL airport of the largest city in the province doesn't even have enough luggage trolleys for 2 airplanes worth of passengers. They can't even keep the computer screens updated with timely arrival info!
How welcome could you possibly feel arriving in a province where you are forced to use porters for your luggage because they have a monopoly on the luggage carts? How smiley are you likely to be arriving at your hotel and arguing with your taxi driver for 5 minutes about an unfair, unmetered fare from the airport.
Welcome to West Sumatra, sucker.
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Named Mentawai waves, their "ideal" and "maximum" surfer numbers. Also filters for south and north wind seasons, as well as averaged totals. Copyright Sustainable Mentawai Surfer Numbers Study 2012.
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How many surfers are too many?
STUDY: SUSTAINABLE SURFER NUMBERS IN MENTAWAI
Consultants:
Phil representing Tenggiri
John representing Barrenjoey
Tom representing Debora
Eric representing Addiction
Sooly representing Huey
Editor:
Jess Ponting representing Center for Surf Research
Author:
Christie Carter from WavePark Mentawai.
Purpose: To objectively define wave names, destinations and ideal/maximum surfer numbers for a sustainable Mentawai surfing industry. A further analysis filtering the data for seasons of various weather helps to define what practically happens as conditions change.
Method: A spreadsheet was created online and updated via email with all consultants collaborating, confirming and modifying data as necessary.
Findings:
· All consultants agreed that the “Ideal” number of surfers in Mentawai for any one day in normal conditions should be 475. Ideal in this sense is defined as 100% satisfaction for all surfers.
· All consultants agreed that the “Maximum” number of surfers in Mentawai for any one day in normal conditions should be 675. Maximum in this sense is defined as 80% satisfaction for all surfers.
· All consultants agreed that the “Average” number of surfers in Mentawai for any one day during a SOUTH wind season should be 436. Average in this sense is defined by the ideal + maximum / 2.
· All consultants agreed that the Average number of surfers in Mentawai for any one day during a NORTH wind season should be 369. Average in this sense is defined by the ideal + maximum / 2.
· All consultants agreed that the Average number of surfers in Mentawai should be 489. Average in this sense is defined by ideal + maximum + south wind season + north wind season / 4.
Summary: Surfing is a very complex sport which depends largely on natural created conditions which are outside the control of the surfer. However, over time and with a large enough data set of natural conditions and experience, it is possible to use averages to get a picture of trends and forecasts. Between our consultants, editor and author, the combined years of experience in Mentawai is 76.
The future and forecast of the Mentawai surf industry depends on the happiness and satisfaction of the surfers themselves. By defining the “Ideal” and “Maximum” number of surfers throughout the islands in various conditions, the consultants have drawn clear lines where satisfaction is to be found. Should these numbers be exceeded, satisfaction and sustainability will decrease. If we are to base future regulations on sustainable numbers, the numbers presented here are the most likely to be successful.
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Mentawai finally has a plan, to make a plan.
From the official Mentawai news source: http://www.puailiggoubat.com/index.php?mod=berita&id=1926
PADANG - Department of Tourism Mentawai District plans to create a zone of nautical tourism in the islands. Head of Tourism Mentawai Desti Seminora said marine tourism will be split into three types of zones: "exclusive", "travel" (ie, ordinary) and "general" use. Exclusive tourist zone, said Dusti, devoted to tourists who pay a higher rate, while the usual tourist zones for tourists a cheaper rate. Finally, travel zones for general use it is destined for public use. Determination of the zone one determined with high waves, "We will divide the types of waves in the form of diamond, gold and silver," said Dusti told Puailiggoubat by telephone, 30 July. Determination of zoning, says Desti, is aimed at environmentally sustainable tourism in the Mentawai. She said that the current lack of zoning in the Mentawai islands, could ruin tourist spots. To filter by zoning tourists, the government will start from a "Tourist information center" to be created by the Mentawai Government. Dusti said the information center would be a place to give information, as well as tax tourists for revenue. "From the information center, tourists are given the freedom to choose what place he wants to go, complete with a choice of tariffs," he said. For now, it is conducting a survey tourist spot zoning division will be included in the layout plan planned Mentawai District completed this year. "In addition to spatial concerns, travel regulations and taxing will be discussed," he said. However Desti yet to determine when it is applied in the Mentawai, "Everything is in the stage of the discussion," she said. Once the marine tourism zone enforced, it will organize cultural tourism potential in Mentawai. According to cultural norms, tourism should not be exploited without any benefit to the public. "Cultural tourism will be discussed as well, but for now we focus on the maritime activities" he said. To date, there are 18 resorts in the Mentawai managing marine tourism, such as Macaroni on headland Sinai Silabu Village, District of North Pagai, Kandui and Siloinak in the Village District Katurei Southwest Siberut, Aloita and Togat Nusa Retreat Mentawai Island in Tuapeijat. Ronna, Desti's staff, said that every year 4,000 tourists come to Mentawai, 80 percent of them in the land-based resorts.
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These photos are symbolic of all the efforts that a unique individual has made over the years to dominate the Mentawai surf industry.
Echo Lima or Electric Lamb as she's known, sits in a Siberut cesspool of bilge water being pumped out of her innards. Demasted, unloved and slowly succumbing to entropy, this boat is owned by the same mastermind behind www.mentawai.com
The same guy who foresaw the impact that the web would have on surfing and the marketing of a destination. The same guy who bought up leases all throughout the islands at the best surf breaks, but ended up only with lawyers, angry investors and disappointed guests.
He over-reached in his frothing greed to prevent anybody reaching the surfing mecca except by his say-so. His savvy online became his downfall, with blogs and links and history coming full circle to warn potential investors that his "great breaks international" wasn't so great after all, except as an offshore tax and asset shelter in Hong Kong.
Sure, I've had my problems created because of the man. Sure, my friends have gone to jail because of his legal finesse and great oratory. But in the end, when was the last time anybody surfed with the guy? When was the last time I saw his battle scarred hard-top driving around Padang? When was the last time the Electric Lamb went for a joy ride down the coast?
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Charter Boat Carnage
How often do surfing charter boats put their anchors down in Mentawai waters? Well, let's consider the numbers: - There are around 20 boats on average active everyday during the season April - October (7 months x 30 days x 20 boats = 4200 charter boat days). - Each charter boat has to anchor at least 2 times a day. One for a surf session and one for anchoring for the night. (4200 charter boat days x twice a day = 8400. - From our experience (and still being conservative with our numbers) at least half of all charter boats will surf two different waves during a single day, increasing the number of anchoring by once a day. (8400 + (4200/2) = 2100) = 10,500. - Using this average, we could say with certainty that this yearly number has been propagated since approximately 2004. 10,500 x 14 years = 147,000. Summary: Since the Mentawai charter boat industry began, we figure that the charter fleet has dropped their anchors in Mentawai waters over 147,000 times. ONE HUNDRED FORTY SEVEN THOUSAND TIMES. HELLO, IS THERE ANYBODY OUT THERE?
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The dozens of islands named “Mentawai” lie 120 kilometers off the west coast of Sumatra. They act like a catcher’s mitt for any bump of swell that is blown west from South Africa, Madagascar, and the rest of the Indian Ocean. The surf is flat maybe 6 days a year, and the rest of the time – as we like to joke – the waves are “overhead when flat”.
Mentawai doesn’t really need any marketing. It is a brand unto itself. Say “Mentawai” to any surfer worth their salt and images will be conjured of perfect offshore waves lapping white sand coconut palm frond beaches. They are the kind of waves that you used to draw in your social studies book when the teacher started droning on. The kind of beaches that popped into your head when your newly wed said “honeymoon”.
The islands are clustered just below 2 degrees south, and everything about the place is equatorial. The doldrums were given that name because of light and variable winds with occasional rip- roaring squalls. The Mentawai Islands experience the doldrums 24/7.
When winter storms in the southern hemisphere start to boil the ocean surface, surfers flock from all over the globe to experience the unique combination of doldrums conditions and perfect storm swells. Breaking almost exclusively on coral reef, the Mentawai waves are as close to perfection as anywhere in the world. When the swell bends and refracts around the reefs, the islands also cater to every skill level, even during the biggest swells of the year. Some world class waves you might have heard of are Lances Left/Right, Macaronis, Thunders, Rags, Ebay, Rifles, Kandui Left, Hideaways and Telescopes. The waves are split about 50/50 on rights and lefts, and if you pick the right resort, your guide can get you the right waves to challenge your current skills without disabling you permanently. Make sure a Mentawai surf trip is on your bucket list.
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After 8 years of faithful service, the tallest accommodation for tourists in the Mentawais had to be dismantled. She was a great house, and many people have enduring memories looking out the window to perfect surf. She will be reborn as new accommodation, this time for the owners.
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