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May 28th- Academic Reflection

Osaka Aquarium

On our free afternoon in Osaka, I made the trip to the Kyoto Aquarium with Alex, Gui and Aiden. I’ve been to plenty of aquariums back home, big, flashy ones with dolphin shows, touch tanks, and photo booths. But what stood out about Kyoto Aquarium wasn’t the spectacle, it was the peace and simplicity. The space felt calm, focused on observation rather than pure entertainment.

That atmosphere made me think about how differently aquariums and zoos are designed in Japan compared to the U.S. In Japanese Perceptions of Wildlife (1991), Stephen Kellert explains how Japanese culture tends to view animals as part of a larger whole, something to live alongside, not dominate. Meanwhile Western institutions often highlight control, performance, or individual rights, Japanese ones seem to emphasize harmony and coexistence. You can feel that difference in the way animals are presented: less showy, more like they’re at home.

Japanese aquariums have also leaned into research, especially around native species like the giant salamander and local crabs. Unlike many U.S. institutions that focus on animal behavior or public engagement, Japan’s aquariums tend to document biodiversity and ecosystems. That scientific depth was present, but it didn’t overwhelm the visitor, it just added context to everything. My favorite exhibit, surprisingly, was the otters. Maybe I was still thinking about the otter café from earlier in the trip, but their enclosure felt real. It was lush, immersive, and made to feel like their natural habitat. I actually thought for a second they might just be loose in the room. They weren’t, of course. This choice really surprised me since I had mainly come to see the whale shark. While that tank was also beautiful and far more natural than the one I had seen in Georgia, the otters managed to steal the show.

Kyoto Aquarium felt like a living version of everything I’d read and noticed. It was educational, but not overbearing. More like a museum than a theme park. American aquariums often try to dazzle you. This one just asked me to slow down and pay attention. That’s not to say the Japanese model is flawless. Nearly a quarter of Japanese zoos and aquariums haven’t published any research, and even the more active institutions tend to overlook individual animal welfare studies. So while the focus on ecosystem research is strong, care for individual animals still needs more attention.

Even with those gaps, the difference in atmosphere and structure was striking. The Kyoto Aquarium didn’t try to wow me. It simply invited me to watch. And that quiet, intentional approach reflects the values I’ve seen echoed throughout my time in Japan.

[pkkstrikesback]

May 29th - Farewell

The record for sleeping in was officially set today, I think it took until noon, maybe even half past, to finally drag myself out of bed. Nau had invited us all to breakfast, but when I got there, I didn’t see anything I wanted, so I set off on a solo mission to find the café where I’d had that amazing breakfast earlier in the week. After wandering around, I finally found Inoya Café… only to realize I’d arrived at 12:50, and they closed at 1. To make matters worse, I discovered I’d left my Suica card back at the hotel, so I hiked all the way back, where I ran into Alex and Gui and rallied them to join me for breakfast at a bagel shop. I ended up getting a chicken avocado bagel sandwich, and the bagel was green, which was such a fun surprise! I also picked up a cinnamon roll bagel-thing as a snack for later. The place wasn’t exactly what I expected, I thought we’d be able to customize breakfast sandwiches, but it was still a fun experience.

On our walk to Don Quijote, we stopped at a few little shops. I bought a pair of chopsticks for one of my best friends, then at Don Don I just barely hit the tax-free minimum, 5,516 yen. It was definitely a lazy day overall, which none of us minded. We eventually had to cut our wandering short to get ready for our group dinner at 5 p.m. My stomach has been kind of upset (and also oddly ravenous) ever since that Indian-Mexican fusion place, so I grabbed an egg sandwich on the way back while Alex and Gui headed to the hotel. I accidentally ordered something different than I expected, it was really mushy,so I ended up picking most of the egg off and just eating the toast. After a quick shower, I headed downstairs for dinner with the group and got to give Akane the thank-you bouquet I’d picked out earlier at Uniqlo. She was so sweet and explained that flower-giving isn’t that common in Japan, so I’m really glad I chose that as a thank-you for all her help, and her endless patience with our somewhat consistent lateness.

Once everyone was downstairs, we started walking to dinner. No one really knew what we were about to be served, and it definitely ended up being a bit of a surprise. The conversation turned into a lot of last-day reminiscing, and Professor Smith even went around asking us what we liked and didn’t like about the trip, which was such a nice trip down memory lane. The dinner was mostly red meat, but Akane helped me adjust my meal so I could still enjoy something with each course. I swapped the potato soup with bacon (heartbreaking to watch everyone slurp it down, I love potato soup) for a vegetable one, and she helped me exchange the ham dish for a big plate of veggies (which I had been seriously craving since the trip started). For the main course, she got me chicken katsu instead of roast beef. Unfortunately, I was still feeling pretty nauseous and fried food just wasn’t cutting it, so I ended up sharing it with the group. It was really sweet watching everyone’s faces light up when they realized they’d get a bonus piece. My favorite course, honestly, was the first salad, whatever cheese they used still makes my mouth water just thinking about it.

After dinner, I went to buy luggage with Gui and found the cutest green and brown suitcase at Loft for a great price. I also managed to grab the Snoopy shirt my friend had asked for from the Uniqlo downstairs. That was the one souvenir I’d been stressing about, so it felt like a little victory. I headed back to the hotel to get some work done but ran into Emily, Aiden, Alex, and Aruba having a blast at the izakaya nearby. I stopped by to say hi, then unfortunately had to be responsible and head back to pack.

[pkkstrikesback]

May 28th - Osaka

Energy levels were definitely at their lowest today, probably the lowest out of the entire trip. I woke up half an hour late, got ready in 20 minutes, and didn’t even want breakfast, which is unheard for me. I dragged myself to class since we were starting early in hopes of ending the day early, but instead I walked straight into the class standoffing with a wasp. Luckily, Quinn turning off the lights was enough to make it want to go outside, but it was pretty hilarious watching everyone squirm and duck when it started to fly.

After the war was won, we headed off to Osaka, fully in “speed run” mode: ready to power through the day and call it. Our first stop was the Sky Tree, and that was my first sign that today’s excursions just weren’t going to be for me. I did one quick loop around the top and then immediately headed back down to eat my onigiri, since I’d finally gotten a bit of an appetite back after last night’s debacle. Despite the 20-minute time limit and the complete lack of things to actually do up there, somehow people were still late. Aruba did find some pineapple Kit Kats in the gift shop, which definitely piqued my interest, might have to go on the hunt before we leave.

Our second stop was Osaka Castle, which fortunately looked much cooler from far away than it did up close as I did not have the energy to explore that place. We saw a few boats drifting through the moat, snapped a quick group photo, and then made our way to Dotonbori Street. We mushed through the crowds, everyone looking half-dead  from the sun but still their eyes were darting around, waiting for the moment we’d be released to finally go eat. Professor Smith took us to the iconic Running Man sign and then, mercifully, set us free at 1:30.

The rest of this is going to be part of the special discussions, going to discuss the differences between American & Japanese zoos/ aquariums.

Academic Reflection

Perez et al. finally put a word to a concept that’s been slowly taking shape throughout the trip. In Character of Urban Japan, the authors describe the layering of old and new using the word palimpsests. The reading explores how Japanese cities are fragmented and shaped by minimal zoning, allowing residential and commercial spaces to blend. These “mixed” zones create an environment where layered urban identities can thrive. Even though Osaka’s streets were flooded with bright colors and enormous digital screens, the city still felt designed for people. It was dense, but never overwhelming or impossible to walk through. In fact, despite the modern skyline, our group consistently stumbled upon shrines tucked into alleyways or nestled beside shops. That sense of organic development, the way cities grow around human life rather than shaping it, is something Character of Urban Japan explored really well.

I also thought it was interesting to see what a modern “merchant hub” looks like. Dotonbori, in particular, was packed with every kind of store and specialty imaginable. It reminded me of the May 24th readings on castles and the ways daimyo incentivized merchants and artisans to settle around castle towns. In a way, Osaka still carries that legacy, just updated for the modern age

[pkkstrikesback]

May 27th - Nara

Unfortunately, today was the day I joined the group of being “uncomically” late to class, as said in the words of the great and all-knowing Sammie. Luckily, I’d had the foresight to grab breakfast the day before, so I got to munch on an egg salad sandwich (the paired potato salad one got a firm yuck from me), some strawberry yogurt, and a café latte. I rolled into class about ten minutes late, then spent the next ten minutes eating, using my self-given “bad student” pass for the day. Honestly, I didn’t seem to be the odd one out since the whole class wasn’t fully there until nearly 9:20. We had an efficient class discussion and then headed out for our excursion to Nara. During our transfer, Akane refueled our Suica cards, which was perfect timing, my main one was lost, and my backup was barely hanging on with 300 yen. 

Once we arrived, we headed straight to the deer park… which was absolute chaos. I wasn’t expecting the picture-perfect scenes from social media, but I also wasn’t prepared for the full-on swarm. I couldn’t even get the plastic wrap off my crackers before I was being tugged around by five-plus deer. Apparently, I put on quite a show, people came over just to laugh at me. -_- . I understood though, it was hilarious watching everyone get “attacked.” No one got quite as much joy out of it as Professor Smith, though, perhaps his revenge for our tardiness. We did come across some calmer deer, one of which we think was pregnant, so we were able to get some cute Disney Princess-style photos. I tried to feed the sweet one, but I got swarmed again and only managed to give her a couple of crackers. Meanwhile, Anh was up to his usual mischief and snuck a cracker into Will’s backpack pocket. Will ended up surrounded by deer and someone of higher morals guilt-tripped Anh into confessing. One of the highlights of the park was seeing a fawn with its mother, super sweet, and she definitely scored extra crackers from everyone for being adorable.

After we left the very muddy, very poopy deer park, we stumbled across a few clean, grassy sections filled with much chiller deer, which made us all question why we didn’t start there. But we mushed on. The deer shrine was absolutely stunning, but that walk up nearly broke me. Surrounded by 3,000 lanterns or not, my feet are ready for the break they’re getting after this trip. Some deer were “posing” at the torii gates, giving us more Disney-level photos. I did feel a tad guilty about how many times I bowed back at the deer without giving them food, but they’re such aggressive swindlers that the guilt faded pretty fast. The shrine itself was beautiful, twisting branches wove through the walkways and canopies, and there was even an ancient tree at the center of the temple grounds. Two sweet women offered to take a photo of Sammie and me, unprompted, which was really kind of them. Since we weren’t visiting during the lantern festival, we went through the lantern room to get a feel for what it would’ve been like.

After that, we broke for lunch in a crowded tourist trap of a food street. It was very wagyu- and beef-heavy, so I struggled to find something I could eat. I ended up at I think one of two spots that served other options, and I got a chicken teriyaki pizza, which was amazing, and the staff were super friendly. I also got one of the best iced coffees of the trip, which just means it was decent. I still can’t believe they like to burn their coffee beans here.

We regrouped at the nearby park and headed to our second temple: Tōdai-ji, home of the Great Buddha. I truly could not expect how massive that statue was going to be. Photos don’t do it justice at all. The temple was swarming with Japanese students, and when we stepped inside, I audibly gasped and just stood there next to Sammie for a while. After marveling at the statue and attempting to decode the meaning behind the different hand positions, we caught up with the group to try squeezing through the hole in the wooden pillar (a.k.a. Buddha’s nostril). If you can fit, it’s said you’ll be reincarnated into a better life. Most of us managed to crawl through, despite Professor Smith warning that Americans usually don’t fit. We rubbed the Buddha statue outside for good health and then split up for the day.

I got my stamp from the temple and headed back, since the exhaustion (and lack of sleep) had really caught up to me. Akane helped me book a massage at the station, it was my first one ever, and it was amazing. I went through my souvenirs and did some packing until Alex and Gui asked if I wanted to join them for dinner. We were supposed to go to a Mexican restaurant, but it turned out to be Mexican-Indian fusion. I got an Indian dish, while Gui and Alex got chicken tacos. I even tried one of Alex’s tomatoes (confirming once again that I still hate tomatoes). Unfortunately, this is where my night took a turn: the food didn’t sit well, and I ended up with a mild case of food poisoning that left me bed-bound and feeling gross for the rest of the night.

Academic Reflection

The article on Vairocana helped highlight the entanglement of politics and religion in Japan. Tōdai-ji Temple was originally constructed by Emperor Shōmu in the 8th century, and though it was later rebuilt after being burned down, it retained its original purpose. The giant statue of Vairocana was not just a spiritual symbol, it also helped to project the Emperor’s authority, reinforcing his legitimacy through religious association. As a result, the temple carries a significant political undertone that I would not have been able to pick up without the article.

Tamura’s article on Japanese Esoteric Buddhism provided context on the syncretism between Buddhism and native Japanese beliefs. Shinto deities were reimagined and honored with Bodhisattva titles, based on the belief that they were manifestations meant to guide people to the  proper path. The reading also emphasized how religion wasn’t just tied to imperial power, it was also used to reinforce local authority. What stood out most to me was how Japanese culture tends to evolve by incorporating the old rather than replacing it. This layering of tradition and innovation is visible in both spiritual and physical spaces, something I got to witness firsthand at the temples today.

[pkkstrikesback]

May 26th - Universal Studios

Although I lost my Suica last night, I luckily still had my backup from when I first arrived and needed to get from the airport to the hotel in Tokyo. We had decided to go to Universal Studios for our free day, but everyone was pretty exhausted so, for the first time this trip, we slept in until around 10:30 or 11. Even if we left a little late, the rest was much needed. After a bit of hustle, a convenience store run, and mayhaps another stop at the station’s Starbucks for some coffee, we were on our way to Osaka.

The ride there honestly felt pretty quick, and before I knew it, we were walking down Citywalk. There was a little trouble getting the tickets at first, but it all worked out, and we were beyond excited. Our first stop was the Hollywood Dream roller coaster. We only had time to ride it going forward, no time for the backward version. Sammie, our expert planner, had the entire itinerary mapped out for maximum efficiency, so next up was Space Fantasy right across the street. That roller coaster was completely different from what we all expected, it was like we were orbiting through planets, moons, and stars, just being thrown around like crazy. My favorite part was the final room with the sun and the giant flashbang that definitely should’ve come with an epilepsy warning.

We started getting hungry, so we headed to the Jaws restaurant. I grabbed a chicken sandwich and a coffee, then poked around the souvenir shop with Sammie while Gui, Emily, and Aruba kept munching. The highlight of the day for Sammie was 100% the Jaws ride, tears were shed. I really enjoyed it too, since I only have hazy memories of it from when I was a kid (before they tore it down). Next up was Jurassic Park, and we made a beeline for the Flying Dinosaur, which was also insane. The way they strap you in let me experience entirely new ways gravity can mess with you. Afterwards, I picked up a dino tissue box holder for my brother, he’s impossible to shop for, and this has been the only thing I’ve found that he might actually like. On our way out, we saw the single rider line for the Jurassic Park water ride was only 10 minutes, so we hopped in. Aruba, Gui, Emily, and I all ended up in the same boat in a line, just in different rows. Sammie’s a little freaky so she actually enjoyed riding with strangers.

Then we rushed over for our time slot at Nintendo World. and oh my god, it truly felt like we’d stepped into another park. At first, we were just going to explore and grab some snacks, but the Mario Kart wait time dropped and we jumped on it. It was so fun, Gui and I ended up getting the most points in the group (he might’ve gotten slightly more then me). After that, we raced through the gift shop. I picked up a little Yoshi keychain for my roommate, then we sprinted off to try and squeeze one more ride in before the park closed. We were aiming for Harry Potter World, but when we passed by the Flying Dinosaur again and saw the wait was only 15 minutes, Emily, Gui, and I split off and went for it. It ended up being the right call, when Sammie and Aruba got to Harry Potter, everything was basically closed. The second ride on Flying Dino was even better than the first. Riding in the dark made each twist and turn more intense. I ended up seated with three Japanese teenagers, they were super sweet, and we kept our arms up the whole time. We even managed a little bonding in broken English and Japanese.

Afterward, we were gently herded (or kicked) out of the park, and the desperate hunt for food began. Even though everything said it closed at 11, it seems they stopped taking customers by 9:30, because by 9:45 we couldn’t find a single place still open. Gui and Aruba grabbed takoyaki while I scavenged at a Lawson. Once we finally satisfied the hangry, we hopped on a train back completely exhausted and desperately in need of sleep.

[pkkstrikesback]

May 25th - Gion

After a very lovely class discussion, where everyone seems to be showing up later and later each day, we headed off to the metro for our excursion. I saw a few classmates duck into 7-Eleven and that made me determined I had enough time to grab a coffee from the Starbucks in the station. Cue panic when I saw my class walk by and I still didn’t have my coffee in hand. Thankfully, I got it just in time and made it to the platform with a minute to spare. That coffee was very much needed as it fueled my climb up what felt like a million stairs and steep slopes throughout the day.

Our first stop was Kiyomizudera Temple, which has officially made my top three temples and shrines list. The area was bursting with vibrant pink and red flowers, and the temple itself overlooked the entire mountain, absolutely stunning. It also had the famous waterfall with three streams representing love, longevity, and success… though no one actually knows which is which. I think I drank from the love stream, Alex aimed for longevity, and Gui ended up with success, if we guessed correctly. On the way out, we passed a koi pond where Sammie got her daily fish fix in. Then Professor Smith gave us 90 whole minutes to eat and explore Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka Streets. Besides the retro market we only got 10 minutes in, this was my favorite shopping spot of the trip.

Before we hit the shops, Alex found a tiny sushi restaurant run by a single chef with just two set menu options. We chose the cheaper one, and I finally got my first sushi of the trip. The first piece was spectacular, I wish I could’ve had a whole plate of it. My least favorite was the shrimp, which I expected but still tried before I passed it along to Alex. Right before the meal, Emily spilled her water all over the table, and you could just see her little puppy-dog ears droop, she’s definitely the baby of the group.

We finished eating in about 30 minutes, giving us a full hour to explore the streets. We all split up since we had different shopping goals. I picked up some chopstick holders and a few more traditional souvenirs. I couldn’t quite find a matcha bowl I loved, so the search continues. I did grab a matcha chocolate ice cream from the Snoopy store though, super yummy. We regrouped (eventually, it was a bit chaotic finding the meeting spot among the crowds), then made our way to the “robot Buddha” exhibit. I actually really enjoyed it, though I think most of the group fell asleep. I found the facial expressions, like the blinking, strangely captivating.

Next, we rushed to catch the Kyomai performance in Gion, which ended up being one of my favorite experiences of the entire trip. The small museum walk-through was beautiful, I especially loved seeing all the different kimonos. But the performance itself left me jaw-dropped. The two dancers were so elegant and brought such different vibes. The first was cutesy and playful, using two hats and maintaining a calm, blank expression that still conveyed different energies. The second was more seductive, almost mischievous. Most people preferred the first, but I was mesmerized by the second, especially when she covered half her face and switched sides, I was charmed for sure. Afterward, Sammie said the performance made her “get it,” and I couldn’t agree more.

While most people needed a nap afterward, I took it as a chance for a solo adventure. Will and Anh joined me for a bit, and we stumbled upon a cat that’s apparently famous on social media for being super chill. We gave him some pats and then made our way to the Big Buddha temple. Will and Anh split off since they’d already visited, so I had about an hour to explore alone before it closed. I got to say a few prayers, circle a wish ball three times, climb the giant Buddha steps, see different Kannons represented by the zodiacs, and even found a little love altar. Before I left, I got my goshuin and a fortune. A Japanese couple kindly helped me figure out if it was a good one (I got a thumbs up so it was good! I hope).

Afterward, I went back to the shopping streets and finished almost all my gift shopping for friends and family. I also picked up a raspberry chocolate croissant filled with both flavors and an iced caramel coffee that finally woke me up. Unfortunately, I accidentally entered the wrong address into Google Maps and what I thought would be a 30-minute walk turned into me wandering into the middle of nowhere. That said, I got to listen to music and swing on a random playground, so not a total loss. The real panic hit when I realized I had 4% battery and still 30 minutes of train travel to go, but I somehow made it. I even had just enough juice left to pay for a Mos Burger dinner. When I got back to the hotel, I found out Emily had lost her room key and had paid for replacements, but since she had mine too, she had to hang onto it until we crossed paths again. She was out eating, so thankfully the guy at the front desk let me up, turns out he’s a student too! He’s studying Chinese philosophy.

After scarfing my food down, I got ready to meet the group for karaoke. But instead of singing, we ended up bowling at Round One for three hours. I managed to break my nails and lose my Suica card. I think my nails might have ended up in someone’s bag, but I’m honestly more upset about losing the cute Suica case I got from a gacha machine.

Academic Reflection

Before coming to Japan, I viewed the country as very rigid in its traditions assuming Tokyo’s ultra-modern side was an exception, not the norm. But Amy Stanley’s essay The Enlightenment Geisha helped me realize how tradition and modernity in Japan often exist side by side, layered rather than opposed. Geisha were often seen as a “promiscuous” element in a conservative society, yet their role didn’t fade with time. Instead, they evolved with Japan’s changing culture. Geisha held more authority than many women in their time, grounded in rigorous training, education, and cultural value. This made them surprisingly well-positioned to adapt to Japan’s modernization. Over time, geisha and sex work in general became wrapped in respectability and symbolism, blurring the lines between old and new. Their ambiguous status, neither wives nor prostitutes, neither relics nor fully modern, allowed them to become icons of Japan in a way I found fascinating. 

As for Shintokumaru, the story read like a Western fairy tale: a mix of moral lessons, manipulation, yet mainly a push towards some form of obedience. Though rooted in Buddhist teachings, the tone reminded me more of 18th–19th century Catholic values. The part that shocked me was the forgiving of the father before immediately murdering his step-family. The tale’s triumphant ending, celebrated by the building of grand temples in honor of his birth mother, was also intriguing. For a religion based on non-materialism, that ending felt out of place. It seemed like a moment where the spiritual message was overshadowed by political or economic motives, thankfully, that thought didn’t entirely take root.

[pkkstrikesback]

May 24th - Himeji Castle

I decided to sleep in until 8 a.m. today instead of my usual 7:30 wake-up, which I thought I’d regret, but honestly, it worked out perfectly. The high was only 68, and with wind and rain all day, I finally got to wear the hoodie I bought in Osaka. On my way to breakfast, I ran into Professor Smith leaving his room, which I took as a sign to kick it into high gear. I sprinted to FamilyMart and grabbed a tuna mayo onigiri, some strawberries, and a new Pokémon coffee, this time a rainbow one. I thought I was cutting it close, but I actually had a few minutes to spare, so I ran into the 7-Eleven near the classroom to withdraw some much-needed cash. I’d been running on fumes for the past 24 hours.

After our class discussion, we hopped on the train. After the first ride, Akane topped up our Suica cards while Professor Smith helped those buying Shinkansen tickets back to Tokyo. I found out I have an extra day in Tokyo, which is awesome, I had a few things left on my list I wanted to do before heading home. On the main train ride, I put Alex onto some music and scrolled through photos the entire time. Once we got to Himeji Station, we broke for lunch, though there was a bit of a miscommunication, so our usual group split up. Sammie, Anh, Emily, Aruba, and I went on a mission to find chicken katsu, something I’ve been craving since we got to Kyoto. The first two places were misleading and only served pork. So Emily and I split off and ended up finding this cozy spot called the Hummingbird Café, where I had one of my favorite meals of the trip. We only had about 20 minutes to eat, but honestly, it was so good I would’ve devoured it with or without the time crunch. The place was run by an elderly couple who were super sweet, they could tell we were in a rush and made sure we were taken care of. I can’t remember the exact name of the dish due to the rush, but it was a chicken and vegetable rice bowl with a fried egg on top. Afterward, Emily and I walked to the castle to meet up with the group. The walk was really nice, we passed some cool statues along the way and were both glad we walked instead of taking the bus.

We all regrouped at the Otemon Gate, where Professor Smith asked for a group photo and graciously gave us time for our own mini photoshoots. Sammie got some great shots of me, so she’s officially on my list of credible photographers. The castle was absolutely stunning, definitely a high-ranked excursion. After being underwhelmed by the Golden Pavilion yesterday, I was surprised by how beautiful and pristine this preserved castle was. It’s hard to believe it’s the original. We explored the grounds without our shoes, and it was honestly just nice to let our socks air dry. If we’d kept trudging through the rain, I think I’d have had to wring mine out. I especially enjoyed the exhibits on Princess Sen, even though the signage repeated a lot, each one still added a small new detail. To be honest, I liked the lead-up to the main keep more than the keep itself. I kind of just went up and came back down, though it was cool seeing the fish-like statues on the roof and taking in the panoramic views.

Gui and I were the first ones down for once, so we had time to explore the little plaza at the base. It was scenic and peaceful, with mist rising from the mountains in the background. Then we went to see the haunted well where Professor Smith started jokingly chanting, “One plate, two plates…” like the serving girl in the original myth. We all tossed in some coins and then moved on to an optional excursion at Kōko-en Garden where, surprisingly, almost everyone came along. While we waited for Akane to get tickets, Carlos got Alex to show us their race walk, and I think they might have Olympic potential. We had just under an hour to explore the garden, and it was 100% worth it. Finally, we had the perfect amount of time for a site. The garden was divided into different sections, almost like exhibits. The first section was my favorite, it had koi fish, bridges, and stepping stones winding through a small pond. It was peaceful, scenic, and genuinely one of the prettiest places we’ve visited.

Afterward, we hopped on a bus back to Himeji Station. I made a quick snack run to 7-Eleven and then boarded the hour-and-a-half train back. I went through some more photos before promptly passing out, faster than I ever have on a moving vehicle. Back in Karasuma, Aidan recommended a restaurant for once, and it actually had chicken katsu. At first, it was just okay, until I tried it with the tartar sauce, and then it was fantastic. I also got to finish Alex’s miso soup, so food-wise, everything really worked out today. We had vague plans to go out later, but after showers and the hit of end-of-day exhaustion, we all tapped out and called it an early night. At this point, daily naps are basically a requirement in Kyoto.

Academic reflection

Stephen Turnbull and James McClain both explore how Japanese castles served as military fortresses and symbols of political power. Turnbull focuses more on architectural design and symbolism, while McClain examines how castle layouts reflected social hierarchies. In Shields of Stone, Turnbull explains the strategic use of stone walls, moats, and twisting layouts that made castles hard for intruders to enter. What stood out most to me was how essential land selection was. Builders didn’t just design structures, they worked with the terrain. For example, sloped stone walls were built into hillsides, making them better at absorbing cannon fire.

In Castle Towns and Daimyo Authority, McClain looks at how castles helped enforce social order. They became central hubs for trade, travel, and control. Many were built near rivers or coastlines, which allowed daimyo to regulate access, attract merchants and artisans, and build up local wealth. Street and gate designs weren’t just for defense, they were tools for surveillance and ceremony, weaving discipline and organization into everyday life.

[pkkstrikesback]

May 23rd - Kinkakuji and Daitokuji

Today was all about highs and lows, starting with a bit of a disappointment at the Golden Temple. I made the mistake of voting for a full hour instead of the 45 (or 30) minutes it probably deserved, but after the Tokyo Museum time crunch trauma, I didn’t want to take any chances. Honestly though, the best part of that stop ended up being the matcha ice cream Sammie and I split. I still regret not getting my own, it was that good. While the temple itself wasn’t the showstopper we were expecting, the gardens and the natural layout were stunning. The design felt way more thoughtful than the actual structure, although I did like the gold phoenix on top of it. Before we moved onto the next stop, I got my first iced coffee from a vending machine, which felt like a milestone.

From there, we headed to the zen gardens, which I loved and thought the group needed to experience. They genuinely felt peaceful in a way nothing else has so far, despite how loud everyone was on the creaky floors. Sammie called out Aidan for needing to take his AirPods out to be truly zen, which quickly became a new inside joke for the group. A really cool part of the gardens was the cow they had inside to help you relax, every person found a different part of the statue that did the trick, for me it was the ribbed neck design. 

For lunch, the group split into two factions: Team Udon and Team Ramen. Carlos ditched his normal group who was going on a match hunt and joined us for ramen. I originally sided with Team Ramen, but all the options had red meat, so I pivoted to an Indian restaurant nearby, and wow was that a good decision. I got butter chicken curry with a legit salad that wasn’t 90% cabbage for once, some kind of spicy grilled chicken that was probably the best I’ve had this whole trip, and a piece of naan larger than the size of my head. A close to perfect meal, I got a little sick of the butter chicken taste at the end. After that, I met back up with the rest of the group and we all went back for a nap.

Post-nap adventure was dinner at the BBQ spot near the classroom where I got to grill my own food for the first time. Super fun but kind of stressful, I was panicking about undercooking something or burning it all because I am a terrible cook. But the chicken and green peppers I got turned out amazing, so I suppose it was worth the pressure. We wrapped up the night by taking over Gui and Aidan’s room for a hangout session. Karaoke had been the plan, but everyone was clearly crashing, so we just stayed up yapping until Aidan kicked us out. Can’t say I regret the switch-up.

Academic Reflection

While the Golden Temple gleams with its iconic gold exterior, its grandeur felt somewhat disconnected from the natural setting around it. I actually enjoyed the gardens more, which reflects Seiko Goto’s discussion in The Japanese Garden, where she emphasizes how nature can serve as a deeper, more authentic gateway to the human spirit. The Zen gardens, by contrast, evoked a real sense of serenity and introspection. Their minimalist design and careful spatial arrangement reflect the principles described by Fukuda and Matsuchika, who explain how stone placement, negative space, and natural textures invite quiet contemplation rather than direct interpretation.

 Matsuchika especially explores the ambiguity of these gardens, how their meaning isn’t fixed, but discovered through meditation and personal perception. I loved how even small details, like the tactile experience of the cow statue or the charm of the creaky floorboards, created space for personal engagement. What surprised me most was learning that the stones weren’t placed just for aesthetics, but to represent symbolic forms,  mountains, islands, even animals, with deep spiritual or historical significance. At first, I thought Zen gardens were just a Buddhist version of Minecraft, beautiful but decorative. However, these authors showed how they actually express core philosophical ideas like impermanence (mujō), emptiness (kū), and harmony (wa).

[pkkstrikesback]

May 22nd - Osaka (free day)

For our free day, Alex, Gui, Emily, and I decided to explore Osaka because we thought we wouldn’t have enough to do what we wanted when the class went as a group later in the trip. Food was the first stop, Emily and I originally went out for omurice, but I quickly learned it contains red meat, so I ended up grabbing Subway next door with Alex and Gui instead. Afterwards, we stopped by a Pop Mart because Gui’s mom had tasked him with finding her some Labubu dolls. Unfortunately, it was a bust, but we did stumble across Studio Ghibli, One Piece, and Kirby stores, so we spent a little time browsing. I tried to hold off on buying anything since we were about to head to Den Den Town, but I did cave and buy a pair of Princess Mononoke socks.

When we made it to Den Den Town, Alex’s legs were really hurting, so they claimed a spot at a café and watched our bags while we wandered around. Emily somehow convinced Gui to buy her… literature… because she forgot her passport. The area itself wasn’t quite what we hoped, it felt like every store we wanted to check out was closed, even though the maps said they were open. After enough walking and a little too much frustration, we decided to pivot and headed to Amerikamura to poke around some secondhand shops. This day really wasn’t full of luck for me shopping-wise. I didn’t find much that stood out, except for a little wallet that honestly did fit my aesthetic perfectly, so I can’t complain too much. We finally took a late lunch break at a skewer place, where we ended up ordering sixteen fried cheese sticks alone. They were ridiculously good and I think will be the fuel for Gui’s dreams for the rest of this trip. 

From there, we went to Round One, and it was an absolute blast, despite the broken nails and bruises I walked away with. We rode the mechanical bull, played baseball, shot some guns with terrible aim, and skated around for a couple hours. We ended the night by going through the arcade section before heading back to catch the last train.

[pkkstrikesback]

May 21st - Arashiyama

As per the 2/3 group vote, we met at 6 a.m. for an early arrival at the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. The 1/3 who didn’t vote (but wished they had voted no) arrived very grumpy and very sleepy, but alas, they had to live with the consequences of their silence. We skipped our usual class meeting since the classroom wasn’t open that early and headed straight to our excursions. The early risers were hoping to avoid crowds and get good photos, but the forest turned out to be a bit grayer than expected, more muted than the green bamboo we were used to seeing online. While we did beat the crowds and dodge the worst of the heat (though the humidity was still vile), the early start didn’t feel quite as magical as we’d hoped.

We had some time to kill before Iwatayama Monkey Park opened, so a few of us hung out by the river. Will.i.am, Gui, and Anh recreated anime poses, and Emily got some really nice pictures of me doing yoga. We were waiting for a nearby café to open, and at 8:30 we headed over. Right next to the café was this beautiful art installation called the Kimono Forest, it definitely outshone the bamboo one. I got a better photo there, then ordered an iced caramel latte (decent), and rejoined the group. After getting our drinks and snacks, we crossed to the other side of the river. Alex tapped out due to the stairs, but I was pretty sure the elevation wasn’t bad, so I gave it a try. I climbed the first slope faster than most of the group but slowed to a steady pace after that. Thankfully, there were a few fans set up along the way to help us recharge.

The hike and early morning were worth it when we got to the Iwatayama Monkey Park. The monkeys just roamed freely, and with the park’s guidelines (no eye contact which made it feel like we were being surrounded by Endermen), it made the experience both fun and a little surreal. Watching the monkeys hang out was already entertaining, but feeding them was the highlight. Inside a little building, we could buy snacks (cheap and with options!). I got apple slices and fed a few monkeys, including one very young and sweet one. Then Gui and I spotted a mom-and-baby duo and used the rest of our apples on them. The other monkeys made way for her, maybe out of respect for her rank or because of her motherhood? Either way, it was fascinating to watch.

We regrouped for a photo on a giant banana sculpture (it’s as silly as it sounds), and then Professor Smith released us for the day. On the hike down, we were all starving, but got completely sidetracked by a boat ride. We filled almost every seat except two. It was a super relaxing ride, and our boat operator gave us a mini tour. The best part was when a snack boat drifted by, did a full 180-degree spin, and boarded our boat to serve us like a floating food truck. I got these fried mochi balls covered in a sweet glaze, Sammie and I loved them, even if no one else did. I also picked up a juice to get the full boat ride vibe.

Afterward, we decided to head back toward the hotel for food instead of eating in Arashiyama. Kyoto seems to have this mysterious power to exhaust everyone, so we grabbed Mos Café and retreated to the hotel for naps. No shame, at this point, naps feel like a survival strategy.

Academic reflection

In Changes in Landscape Planning and Land Management in Arashiyama, Fukamachi et al. examine how Japan’s traditionally people-led, culturally embedded land management shifted toward centralized, government-directed management. The article explains how Arashiyama once had diverse flora like cherry blossoms and red pines, yet now bamboo dominates the landscape. Seeing this in person, an entire forest transformed, was fascinating yet heartbreaking. The ecological feedback loop of local greenery was traded for specialization and commodification. The bamboo forest, while iconic, is a reminder of how natural spaces can be reshaped to fit a commercial image.

While management practices are now beginning to re-integrate historical and local knowledge, understanding how Arashiyama became what it is today feels crucial to understanding Japan’s balance of minimalism and marketability. The ties between culture and environment are echoed in Zeami’s Nonomiya and the “Sakaki” chapter from Murasaki Shikibu’s The Tale of Genji. In both, nature is not just a setting but a language. In “Sakaki,” characters express emotions through poetry tied to natural imagery, sadness with falling leaves, longing with changing seasons. In Nonomiya, nature is sacred ground, intertwining emotion, memory, and place. Both texts reinforce the idea that nature is a living archive of cultural and historical meaning.

[pkkstrikesback]

May 20th - Kyoto Museums and Imperial Palace

I finally left early enough to get breakfast at a café today: a chicken sandwich with lettuce and other veggies, plus an absolutely delicious bowl of yogurt topped with granola, raisins, and honey. I tried ordering an iced coffee but ended up with a hot cappuccino instead which felt meant to be. I grabbed another hot cappuccino to-go for Emily and meant to get her a pastry too, but this café only served drinks alongside the single food option labeled “breakfast.” So, I stopped by 7-Eleven and picked up a tuna mayo onigiri to go with it.

I wore my new pants from 109 in Shibuya with a black tank top that made me feel like Sarah Connor in Terminator 2. Our morning started with a guided tour of the Imperial Palace led by a very sweet Japanese man who spoke great English, just very quietly. It was also about 10,000 degrees outside, and being packed tightly in a large group made things a bit unbearable. I had to step away a few times just to get some air. My favorite part of his tour, surprisingly, was on the sustainable harvesting practices of cedar wood and bark.

After the palace, we made our way to the Kyoto Manga Museum, which ended up being way more enjoyable than I initially expected. Our first stop was a puppet show that used illustrated panels instead of the hand puppets I expected. The narrator was super expressive and had everyone laughing. Jennifer even got a bunny-shaped treat with happy and sad faces! The main museum was mostly common knowledge, but Anh led me straight to the One Piece section, and I think I spent over an hour on the floor flipping through books. It was wild to see how different the written form is from the anime, especially post–time skip. Meanwhile, Emily tried her luck on the Apothecary Diaries gacha machine but gave up after getting a duplicate. The two of us did the photobooth together and got to experience how funny the beauty filter is before meeting the rest of our group at the museum café.

Alex, Gui, and Aidan got meat sauce spaghetti while I went with chicken curry… which I also had last night. Safe to say I’m officially over it, I’m going at least a week without eating curry again. I finally got my iced coffee, though. That said, Japan’s coffee scene isn’t my favorite compared to the States or Europe. (I learned they tend to burn their beans here on purpose… odd choice.) After lunch, I returned to the One Piece section once the group got too deep into Star Wars lore for me to keep up. I, unfortunately, tapped out after the prequels, and they thought the movies I mentioned were “too weird” (I’m rolling my eyes here).

Despite the heat draining us all, we continued on to the Kyoto National Museum. I was tired and figured I wouldn’t enjoy it much, but once I got through the first floor, I was fully invested. I spent way too much time trying to sketch things I wasn’t allowed to photograph, while Alex and Gui waited patiently, chatting in the background like my podcast. My eSIM also ran out, and for some reason my downloaded music wouldn’t play, so I had to rely on them for my background vibes. What caught my eye most at the museum were the abalone and shell coffers. I’d never really thought about Japan as an island nation until I saw how materials like shells were incorporated into ancient furniture. The craftsmanship was stunning, tiny shell pieces creating such ornate details and color schemes. My absolute favorite piece, though, was a decorative vase with phoenix's painted on and a dragon statue at the top. That one stood out purely for aesthetic reasons, but I couldn’t stop staring at it.

After the museum, I was supposed to go with Will and Anh to the temple/mall, but my eSIM was down, so I couldn’t message them. I ended up going back with a different group, then met up with Will and Anh later for dinner. We got ramen, which lowkey made all of us feel sick. I retreated to my room to rest while Aruba and Emily watched Sonic.

Academic Reflection

The architecture of ancient Japan stands out in large part because of its integration with nature, a theme highlighted in Ivan Morris’s The World of the Shining Prince. The role of the natural environment in creating the palace’s aura was clear during the Imperial Palace tour. Although the gardens were more limited than I expected, their impact was amplified by Japan’s fertile lands. One of the more surprising parts of the tour was learning how the use of cypress wood changed over time, as harvesting practices evolved to become more sustainable in response to environmental strain.

Another intriguing element from the reading was the relationship between architecture, lighting, and gender. As the author explained, weather conditions significantly shaped building layouts, especially in how light entered interior spaces. This had a particular impact on women. According to Morris, women in Heian-era Japan often immersed themselves in even darker settings, despite already low lighting, in order to cultivate an air of mystery. In a conservative court society, seduction relied on subtlety. Manipulating lighting to enhance one’s allure was an interesting strategy especially from the more gaudy western background I’ve studied. 

[pkkstrikesback]

May 19th - Mt. Fushimi

Our first full day in Kyoto looked much different from our days in Tokyo. Instead of a delicious hotel breakfast, I had to make do with what I’d scavenged from Lawson the night before: a tuna mayonnaise onigiri and an iced caramel coffee that was so ridiculously, almost disgustingly sweet, I had to recruit Gui to finish most of it. I’d been excited to find a caramel coffee at the convenience store, but trust me when I say I won’t be repurchasing that drink. On top of that, instead of the fluffy futon I’d been snoozing on, I woke up with unexplained shoulder pain from some part of the bed. It seemed like an unlucky start, but somehow, even though my group was technically a couple of minutes late to class, we still ended up being the most on time, first ones there in fact. 

After our morning discussion, we headed to the very close subway station and began our journey to Mount Inari, home of the Fushimi Inari Shrine. I was really looking forward to this hike because at only 233 meters, it was much shorter than the mountains I’d dramatically failed to climb in Tokyo. However, when Selin mentioned the asthma attack she’d had trying to hike up earlier that morning, my optimism took a hit. Thankfully, she and Quinn took charge and asked Professor Smith if we could take an easier path. This shrine felt more like a place to explore than a place to pray, very different from the ones we visited in Tokyo. It was beautiful, and we even got to witness a performance by the shrine maidens, paid for by two businessmen hoping for luck in their company. There was one very determined man making sure no one recorded or took photos, but when people apologized, he’d smile; he had far more patience than I would in that situation. The performance itself was lovely; I especially enjoyed the second part, which involved a bell-like instrument that I don’t know the name of, but every move was so practiced and precise, it was mesmerizing.

After that stroke of luck, we began walking through the famous thousands of torii gates. It was fun to dissect the variations in the gates and hypothesis on why they looked different. Along the way, we stumbled upon a couple of shrine cats who were living for the attention from our giant group. They were very calm and dotting even when surrounded by masses of people. As we climbed higher, the trail turned from a steady incline to unevenly spaced stairs. Alex and I almost called it quits until we realized we were just one flight away from the summit. Finally, we completed a hike! A lot of people grabbed ice cream at the top, but I immediately claimed a bench and was promptly bullied by Anh for looking like a corpse. Luckily, my lungs had time to adjust for once, so after a bit of rest, I could actually enjoy the view instead of just willing myself to survive until the descent.

The summit was surprisingly empty, and instead of returning early in the morning one day like Selin’s group had done for photos this morning, we tested our patience and stuck it out. Lance led us to a great photo spot that stayed relatively clear while Will.I.Am, Anh, Helen, and Aidan all got great solo shots. But the second it was my turn? Crowds. Absolute swarms. For thirty straight minutes. I had planned this as my main photo shoot location in Kyoto, but alas, I’m just going to hope I managed to take a photo where I’m blocking the people behind me. Eventually, we began our descent, hunting for food. The path down was lined with shrines, not just for foxes, but also dragons, frogs, zodiac animals, and more. One stall had a single monkey zodiac fortune, which felt like a sign, so I bought it. I’m not entirely sure what it says (hopefully Akane can help me translate), but so far it feels very spot-on.

We finally found a restaurant where I got tori nabe (boiled chicken udon) which was delicious but didn’t fully hit the spot. I’d been hungry all day (still am) and just couldn’t seem to shake the feeling. I did get to drink nearly everyone’s tea, eat Alex’s leftover miso soup and her chicken-egg-rice bowl, and sample Helen’s inari sushi when she got too full (though that kind of sushi might be a bit too sweet for me). After eating, we wandered through the market stalls. I picked up a magnet for my grandparents and finally got a touristy graphic T-shirt. We didn’t stay for long, everyone was exhausted, so we hopped back on the train and made a quick ice cream stop before heading back to the hotel for naps. Will.I.Am had found a vegan ice cream shop that I was excited to try, but unfortunately, none of the flavors appealed to me. I ended up at a different (non-vegan) place and got a blueberry yogurt with probiotics, served in the shape of a pyramid on top of a square cone. Things are never not cooler in Japan.

I napped from 4 to 7 before finally getting up to be productive. We quickly learned that most restaurants in Kyoto close by 9. We tried running to meet up with Aruba and Sammie around 8:20, but the sign was already flipped to “closed” by the time we arrived. Aidan ended up grabbing Mos Burger, while Gui, Alex, and I settled for McDonald’s and 7-Eleven. Now all that’s left is a long shower and an actually early bedtime, or maybe planning my time in Kyoto.

Academic Reflection

Smyers explores the importance of Inari in the Shinto religion and how its worship has evolved over time in Japan. Inari is the god of rice and is represented through foxes who act as his messengers, though Smyers clarifies that Inari himself is not a fox. I liked how ambiguous the character of Inari and the foxes are; they could be either protectors or tricksters. It feels fitting for a deity associated with economic success, or, at least in our late-stage capitalist world, there's something ironically perfect about it. What stood out to me was how Inari has adapted to fit the needs of different generations and shifts in Japanese society, from agricultural success to more general prosperity. All the torii gates lining the mountain were donated by different companies hoping for good fortune in their business, which reveals a lot about the ongoing relevance of Inari worship.

The most interesting aspect was learning how the Meiji Restoration led to the removal of Buddhist temples from the site in an effort to promote a newly nationalized Shinto identity. Inari had historically been part of both Buddhist and Shinto practice, and even though the official ties to Buddhism were severed, that separation in practice is blurry. It’s fascinating to see how worshippers draw from multiple traditions, and even more so how many don’t see what they’re doing as religious at all, but rather as cultural rituals or moral habits. This all really made me think about the difference between how religion operates at the local level versus how it’s defined in official policy, especially in a country where syncretic practices are so normalized.

[pkkstrikesback]

May 18th - Kyoto

I stayed up to catch the last Tokyo sunrise before taking a quick two-hour nap, waking up at 7:30 to shower and finish packing. I also made sure to grab one last breakfast from the hotel. I’m really going to miss mixing rice with egg seasoning and those mushed up boiled eggs, but more than anything, I’m going to mourn that miso soup. Honestly, if I’d had the time, I could’ve finished a whole pot of it every morning. We met for morning class, where everyone showed up somewhere on the spectrum between bright-eyed and bushy-tailed to fully zombified. I wore my Walking Dead shirt to make it clear which side I was on. After a short class discussion, it was time to fight for our lives to get to Kyoto. Of course, the humidity and sun decided today was the day to show up in full force. I was truly grateful I’d packed light.

We made a quick stop for bento boxes, but I just got a cheap caramel latte which ended up being not-so-good, I suppose accurate for the price. Then we finally boarded the Shinkansen/ bullet train. I sat in the middle seat between Alex and Gui. We synced up our Spotify and they quickly passed out while I used the time to go through all the photos I hadn’t touched since the start of the trip. I finally got to scroll through Will.I.Am’s collection, shoutout to having an amateur photographer in the group, my Instagram is going to benefit greatly from his hard work. As the train sped along, the landscape transformed into rolling green mountains. It looked so ethereal, I completely understood why Studio Ghibli never has to look far for inspiration.

After the bullet train, we hopped on one more local train and then faced a hike to the hotel. We passed by our new classroom, which has a cute little turtle mascot winking outside the entrance. Then Akane led us on what felt like an endless walk to Sakura Hotel. I eventually caved and asked Professor Smith how much farther we had to go. With classic optimism, he said, “Just around the corner!”, which, in reality, meant around the corner and down an entire street. When we finally arrived, we were told we’d have to wait until 3 p.m. to check in. You could visibly see the heartbreak on the faces of everyone with a suitcase. But I didn’t mind the wait, I was more than happy to have an hour for lunch. We ended up going to Mos Café, and Akane made a surprise appearance! Alex started asking her questions, and we got to learn how incredibly awesome she is. Food-wise, I got a chicken burger and onion rings, and eventually took Akane’s recommendation to try a matcha shake—and oh my, it was absolutely delicious.

At 2:58, Akane marched into the hotel to fight for our room keys. We waited another 30 minutes, but once passports were collected, we knew victory was near. Everyone finally got their keys and picked up their luggage. This hotel feels more like a dorm, especially since we’re basically occupying the whole building. I think every hotel should be picked based on the quality of the bathrooms. This one gave me one of the best showers of my life. After traveling, everyone crashed into nap mode. The rest of the night was about recalibrating: grabbing dinner, unpacking, and taking a full “everything” shower. For dinner we got to explore this little side street decorate with neon lights. We kept getting rejected due to our group size so we split up into groups, Emily, Gui, Nau and I got this Italian-fusion place. I just got chicken curry but Emily got this really weird pizza that no one could stomach. We ended up taking a my little pony quiz for entertainment, only one who's didn't make sense was Will.I.Am.

Academic Reflection

Hood’s article on the Shinkansen (bullet train) brought to light a lot of issues I never would have considered otherwise. It’s easy to get caught up in the almost mystical, high-tech image of Japan without thinking about how these developments impact a very traditional and rural nation. I’d always known the bullet train as this super-speed marvel running on advanced engineering, an idea amplified by the Bullet Train movie. But Hood explores the train’s effects on non-major cities and reveals how its uneven impact can actually harm the economies of smaller towns.

Originally, the Shinkansen was built to connect Tokyo to other cities in the post–World War II era. But now, new lines are often shaped by local lobbying and profitability instead of national interest. Cities lucky enough to get a Shinkansen station often see population growth and economic boosts. On the flip side, towns without stations tend to experience economic decline and depopulation, as residents move toward areas with easier access to work and leisure. Even for towns with stations, benefits aren't guaranteed, some still see a drop in population, which might suggest that the returns on the Shinkansen aren’t as consistent as its arrivals. The mixed outcomes Hood explores were honestly one of the more eye-opening readings we’ve had this trip. Something that symbolizes technological progress and national pride can, at the same time, contribute to the quiet decline of rural areas. It really made me think about how important proper counteractive planning is, otherwise, important spaces are left behind, forgotten in the rush toward modernization.

[pkkstrikesback]

May 17th - Disney Seas!!

I walked into DisneySea totally blind, tagging along with Gui, Aidan, Sammie, and Emily without knowing much about what to expect. Before we started our adventure, we made sure to grab some ears so we could get our money’s worth, and they ended up being a third of the price compared to the ones in the States, so it was totally worth it. I went with Marie’s ears from The Aristocats, maybe a little too on-the-nose considering my name, but hey, when in Disney! Instead of Cinderella’s castle, this park’s icon was Ariel and King Triton’s castle. We had chosen DisneySea over the other park specifically because it had rides and areas unique to Japan. Since I was tagging along, I didn’t always know where we were most of the time, but I was happy to be along for the ride. One of the highlights was Journey to the Center of the Earth, super fun, though as an adrenaline junkie I definitely had to scream extra to make up for the more mellow Disney speed. We had skipped most of Ariel’s area at first, but circled back for the kid’s Flounder coaster, which I might’ve liked a little too much.

Fantasy Springs ended up being my favorite area by far. Every corner of it felt like spring, despite the insane wind and on-and-off downpour. We took refuge at the Snuggly Duckling (the Tangled pub!) for lunch. The others got burgers, and I thankfully found a decent plant-based burger. From there we rode the Rapunzel ride, which was gorgeous but short, and the Tinker Bell ride, which was a blast, especially since I got to ride it with Sammie and Emily. Even as the rain picked up, we stayed in good spirits, sprinting between shelters and laughing the whole time. One unexpected highlight was stumbling onto Captain Hook’s ship, which fulfilled some One Piece dreams. The whole park lit up beautifully at night, and we ended the day with Tower of Terror, which had a completely different storyline from the U.S. version. After heading back to the hotel, we capped the night off with a big sixth-floor hangout, finally bringing all the little groups together for some solid bonding time. It was the perfect way to wrap up the day.

[pkkstrikesback]

May 16th - Odaiba

I made my way down to breakfast after actually going to bed at a reasonable time, and for the first time, they had scrambled eggs. Unfortunately, they were pretty disappointing, so I stuck with my usual lineup, plus some peaches! I originally thought they were mango, but I was pleasantly surprised when they turned out to be peaches instead.

Our first excursion of the day was the TeamLab modern art exhibit, the one we’ve been seeing plastered all over Tokyo’s metro stations and social media feeds. The experience was divided into elemental sections: water, forest, and garden. We were initially hesitant about the water area, we figured it would just be the ankle-deep wading we first walked into, but it exploded into what was essentially an adult playground. After passing a miniature waterfall, we entered a sensory room called the Soft Black Hole, which felt like the padded psych wards but not in a terrifying way. After that, the path led us to one of the coolest exhibits: the Infinite Crystal Universe. We spent a good chunk of time there just watching the light show ripple through the dangling strands. Next up was a giant koi pond that transformed into a glowing, animated fish highway. Then we entered a room filled with huge bubbles? Not entirely sure but Aidan launched one into us so forcefully that our souls reverberated, which he happily doubled over laughing at. 

After that came the forest section, which we had to speed-run. The Moss Garden of Resonating Microcosms reminded us of the Chicago Bean if it had been built in Easter Island. The rest of the forest zone was a mini entertainment zone filled with interactive games and installations. Sadly, the lines were too long and we only had an hour (cough cough), so we didn’t have time to try them, but the walls were covered in animations that moved as we touched them. I was most looking forward to the garden, and it absolutely did not disappoint. The entire room was filled with orchids, which are my favorite flower and a delightful surprise. Alex, Gui, and I took some time to have a mini photoshoot among the blooms before meeting back up with the rest of the group.

After teamLab, we hopped on the train and passed Tokyo Big Sight. Which looked a little sillier than I expected. Our next stop was the BBQ Beach, and we were all super excited. Some people were worried about dietary restrictions, but it worked out perfectly, and there was plenty of food to go around. We split into two groups: Aruba was our group’s chef, and I think Quinn took charge of the other one. Aruba was a total beast on the grill; everything was cooked perfectly, and the rest of us were vultures circling the fire. I munched on garlic bread, grilled veggies, rice balls, chicken, and even a scallop donated by Group 2. Emily got taken out by a tomahawk bone and passed out after eating it. Gui keeps putting us onto drinks during this trip, this time he showed us how good the orange juice was, and trust when I say we kept going back for refills. The BBQ ended with s’mores, but instead of chocolate squares, they gave us chocolate sauce, and the marshmallows were… suspiciously marshmallowy. Maybe too sweet? I couldn’t quite place it, but I didn’t like it. After that minor letdown, I was inspired by Alex and Emily and took a nap on the couch until it was time to leave.

Our next stop was Daiba Itchome Shōtengai, which was really amazing. It had a nostalgic 1950s–60s vibe and was way cheaper than other shopping areas we’ve visited. I grabbed a bunch of souvenirs, even though we only had 10 minutes there (which was nowhere near enough time). Afterward, we made a quick trip to the giant 1:1 Gundam statue and took a group photo before splitting off for the evening. Alex, Gui, Will.I.Am, Xan, and I headed back to Asakusa to see if we could find more souvenirs, but everything there felt very overpriced, especially compared to what we’d just seen at Daiba Itchome. Still, I managed to grab a few things before we headed back to the hotel to start packing for our 11 a.m. luggage transfer on the 17th.

Academic Reflection

Murayama and Parker explore the balance needed to create an “amenity environment”, a space where “work,” “live,” and “play” are all sustained into urban hubs. While they reference several cities, the two authors primarily focus on Odaiba and the quality of its mixed land use. In the post-industrial era, tourism and leisure have become major stakeholders in city planning, particularly in Japanese society. Consumption spaces are often prioritized, which means the needs of investors and tourists typically take precedence over the needs of local residents. For example, development projects are often marketed as job creators for locals, but in reality, they sometimes fail to deliver on that promise, or even worse, result in the displacement of communities to make room for modernization.

Walking through Odaiba felt like stepping into an entirely different world, it didn’t feel like Tokyo at all. But what stood out immediately was how apparent the “play” element was. This reclaimed land has been reimagined as a sleek, high-tech entertainment hub. I honestly couldn’t point out many residential or work spaces during our visit. Instead, cultural icons like the Gundam statue and the Statue of Liberty replica, along with the array of restaurants and shopping centers, made the imbalance very clear. One term from the reading that really stuck with me was “non-place”, a site that lacks authentic identity. I can see how Odaiba contributes to Tokyo’s economic success, especially in terms of tourism, but it also runs the risk of becoming disconnected from the cultural heart of Japan in favor of surface-level appeal.

[pkkstrikesback]

May 15th - Mt. Takao

Our second full-day excursion was to Mount Takao, about an hour and a half away from the city. The day started with a bit of chaos on my end, I had accidentally left my phone at the karaoke place the night before. Thankfully, Akane-san graciously helped me call and confirm that it was still there (bless her). The group also thankfully let me use their phone for photos today, especially Gui and Alex. Everyone seemed a bit sleepier than usual this morning, most of us napped on the way over; Alex and I were no exception. Aruba and Gui were the strongest among us, managing to stand for most of the ride like trained warriors. At the station, there was a really cool statue of a Tengu head, which marked the start of the area’s mythical, serene aesthetic.

Once we arrived, all I could think about was food, but the area seemed to be overrun with soba spots, and no one in our group was really in the mood for that. We started heading toward the nearest 7-Eleven, but luckily stumbled upon a hot dog/Italian fusion place that finally looked promising. Alex and I ended up sort of splitting a mozzarella and spinach pizza, though she only had one slice, while Gui devoured his own salami-bacon pizza with near record-breaking speed.

Still a bit hungry, we made our way back toward the group and spotted almost the entire study abroad crew lined up at a donut stall. I initially stopped for coffee but quickly forgot that mission and got mini chocolate-covered donuts instead. As I sat down, I suddenly remembered what I actually came for and went next door to grab a brown sugar latte. It was surprisingly sweet but still really enjoyable. We had a little over an hour for lunch, and impressively, everyone made it back on time. Lance and Lilly’s group came back with these adorable plushies we were all excited to hunt down later.

We regrouped near a pair of flying squirrel statues, apparently a theme of the area, though we unfortunately didn’t spot any real ones during our mountain trek. Unsurprisingly, everyone chose the chair lift over the cable car. We paired up and I ended up riding with Alex. We were both kind of surprised by the lack of safety features, but the potential fall didn’t seem too terrifying. On the way up, my lungs began their slow descent into grape-like shriveling. But Mt. Takao was stunning, I finally understood what people mean when they describe a “rolling landscape.” The mountains looked like they went on forever. I loved how luck and spirituality were woven throughout the experience. It felt like every corner offered a new chance to cleanse some bad luck. I even got to rub a lucky octopus statue.

The Yakuoin Temple might be my favorite so far. There was something about the tactile nature of walking through the keystone and the energy around the space. Maybe it was the association with luck, or just the ambiance. I ended up buying two amulets, one for my mom’s health and one for my good fortune. By this point, I was really struggling, lightheaded, heart pounding, and unable to sit down without making it worse. I decided to join Alex on her early descent, and we made our way to the little monkey zoo. Alex doesn’t really like monkeys, but I’ve always loved them; growing up, my nickname was “monkey” because I’d climb on everything. I finally picked up a little plushie for my bag and we explored a bit. The baboon enclosure looked like a miniature kingdom, totally different from the zoo layouts I’m used to in the U.S.

Mt. Takao completely drained me, honestly, it was way worse for my lungs than Mt. Hakone. After we got back, the group helped me retrieve my phone from the karaoke bar, and we ended the day at Mos Burger. Their chicken sandwiches being under 400 yen is an absolute steal. A quick dip in the onsen helped un-shrivel my lungs, and then it was bedtime.

Academic Reflection

Totman challenges the misconception surrounding Japan’s natural beauty, attributing the country’s environment to human management rather than inherent abundance. He focuses especially on the Tokugawa period, when resource scarcity (fueled by rapid population growth and urbanization) led to a heightened focus on conservation and reforestation. As the demand for timber surged to support Japan’s infrastructure, the government implemented environmental systems like afforestation and plantation forestry to manage these pressures. Still, Totman notes that Japan’s most intensive forestry management actually took place after World War II.

I had fully bought into the romanticized version of Japan that Totman critiques. The image Studio Ghibli paints feels so effortless, and perhaps that’s the point. But behind that aesthetic is real labor, policy, and adaptation. What struck me most is that Japan’s greenery wasn’t initially cultivated for beauty, but it emerged from necessity as a response to resource management needs and ecological strain. Climbing the mountain and seeing houses nestled alongside the winding paths made this even more tangible. It made me reflect on the balance between the needs of the people and the policies of the government. Japan’s forests aren’t untouched wilderness, but rather they are shaped by history, crisis, and evolving governance. In that sense, the land feels not only beautiful, but resilient and sincere.

[pkkstrikesback]

May 14th - Imperial Palace

Thanks to a very gracious 30-minute class delay, we got to enjoy a chill breakfast. I managed to finally get a big breakfast: I put away a massive bowl of rice with TWO eggs instead of one (a luxury), some incredibly sweet pineapple, oddly chewy broccoli, and a giant bowl of miso soup to top it off. At our all-girls table, we got a dose of Gui’s chivalry when he refilled all our waters, we decided he’d make a great waiter. After a quick class discussion, we headed to Tokyo Station. I really enjoyed the historical context Professor Smith gave us. Even though the building dates back to the early 1900s, it was heavily bombed during World War II and had to be rebuilt in the 1960s.

Our main destination of the day was the Imperial Palace. I was initially excited because I thought we’d be seeing an actual palace, but that illusion was quickly corrected. My excitement shifted to the park itself, which was way larger and more lush than I expected. The diversity of the plants and trees felt like a breath of fresh air compared to the other nature spots we’ve visited in Tokyo. The walk was super pleasant, and we had a little photoshoot in the gardens, Will.I.Am finally lived up to his amateur photographer title. The garden also had the trip’s first koi pond. We sat by the bridge for a bit and watched them swim around, I’m getting perfect content for my video project. Xan told me that each prefecture donates a tree to the garden, which I thought was such a beautiful tradition. At the garden’s gift shop, Professor Smith actually gave us time to browse, I managed to snag six postcards for under 400 yen. I’m very happy to learn it’s because the Imperial family doesn’t need the money, they make great deals for me. However, bad fortune struck when we were denied ice cream, clearly because Professor Smith hates us and wants us to die miserable, sweaty deaths. (Or maybe because we’ve yet to master the art of Japanese punctuality.)

As far as actual infrastructure goes, the only major building in the garden was the 1960s Imperial Concert Hall, which had a stunning sun-and-moon mosaic. On our way out, we passed a statue of a mother offering water to soldiers, a tribute to the brutal conditions Japanese troops endured in WWII when supply lines were cut off. When we arrived at the shrine dedicated to those soldiers, we had a much-needed group conversation about the differences between how honor and pity are viewed for soldiers in the U.S. versus Japan.

After the official day ended, we had one of my top meals of the trip: peppercorn pasta with chicken, spinach, and a generous helping of vegetables at an Italian-Japanese fusion restaurant. We ate as a group of six, and Gui and Aidan are slowly teaching Will.I.Am the ways of chivalry. (Progress is… slow.) Later, we headed to Shibuya. We visited a Jujutsu Kaisen fight scene, still not entirely sure what was going on, but I got some cute photos of the dweebs who were dweebing out. We failed multiple times to find the station stamp and eventually gave up, opting instead to hit the Star Wars shop, where the dweebs reached their peak dweeb mode. I got some funny R2D2 and Chewbacca socks in the process.

Next stop: Starbucks. I got my usual caramel macchiato while Gui lowkey put me onto their white mocha, a little too sweet for my daily coffee but still good. Then we went to the One Piece store, where Emily and I finally got to dweeb out ourselves. They definitely know how to overcharge for merch in Japan, but I dropped a bag anyway. I got the One Piece merch I’ve been needing and scored some basics from 109 at prices that beat the U.S. (or at least that’s what I keep telling myself). I even ventured out of my comfort zone and bought a kawaii-style skirt. Happy to report I’ll be spending frugally until we head to Kyoto.

To wrap up the night, the group reconvened at a skewer place. Aruba and I shared some chicken meatballs, while Alex, Gui, Aidan, and Sammie demolished a ton of pork gyoza. I’m still on the hunt for chicken ones. I did try the fried cheese gyoza though, basically really good cheese curds, which was a delightful surprise. Finally, our group (plus Will.I.Am and Emily) hit up a karaoke place nearby. We only booked an hour since we all needed an early night, but we made plans to come back when we have more time and energy. Overall, the day was packed with unexpected delights and good vibes.

Academic Reflection

The Yasukuni Shrine regularly sparks passionate debate—even outside the minds of foreign students like us. Yongwook Ryu’s article dives into the controversy surrounding the shrine, focusing on the differing perspectives among Japanese political elites and how those views shape foreign relations, especially with former colonies like China and Korea. Originally intended to honor soldiers who died during the Meiji Restoration, the shrine’s purpose shifted dramatically after World War II, when 14 Class A war criminals were enshrined. What was once a sacred site for national mourning has since become a potent symbol of militarism and imperialism. The inclusion of war criminals adds a political and international dimension to what was meant to be a solemn, spiritual site. Navigating a solution that honors domestic politics while addressing the valid concerns of Korea and China feels very far off.

When we visited the shrine ourselves, I had already mentioned the group discussion we had to unpack these dynamics, but I felt something distinct in the atmosphere—something I haven’t experienced anywhere else in Tokyo. The usual relaxed energy I’ve come to associate with shrines was replaced with a heaviness that made me stand a little straighter, act a little more consciously. Maybe it was the weight of prior knowledge, maybe it was just placebo tension—but either way, the space had a different energy. It wasn’t like any other shrine we’d been to.