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Podium: A Reflective Commentary
Rosannagh Maddock, 2024
Abstract: ‘Podium’ is a series of collages made with the goal of enacting graphic fashion theory, working in a feedback loop with fashion practice, at the coalface of cultural production. These triptychs are intended to enmesh with the playful mundane, like a mirror or a map, producing an alternate perspective on sportswear and competitive activity in the embodied actions of the user, becoming a tool that the user can take with them as they make fashionable choices about how to be.
Background: Fashion, sports and technology intersect in many ways and varied strengths lie in different disciplinary responses. This project was developed over three years as a practice-based PhD in collections management, with a remit to develop opportunities for public engagement with under-studied fashion and textile collections and to expand sportswear history’s interdisciplinary potential.
Aims: The subject aligns with cultural trends concerned with the role that technology, fashion, speed, and competition (both formalised and spontaneous) play in contemporary society. By looking at the ways embodied time and speed have been networked together in competition, the project aims to expand conceptions of experimental fashion theory and design.
Findings: A triptych of triptychs, ‘Podium’ blends ephemeral digital collections and historic sporting, film and fashion imagery in a collage process that highlights the vast potential of fashion’s popular vernacular of the ‘moodboard’ in forward-thinking research. Each panel explores a facet of success, spanning the highs and lows of achieving a celebratory podium. The result is akin to a bar graph.
Discussion: Developing moodboards in complexity and utilising them in research can elaborate their potential as fields of play. Operating through automatic practices of everyday life, fashion collage is an active zone for experimentation.
Conclusion: Ultimately, ‘Podium’ posits experimental fashion with graphic outputs as an exploratory practice, with the ability to anticipate cultural shifts through its dynamic, layered forms.
Summary:
Speed and fashionability in sports culture are networked together and under-researched
‘Podium’ provides a creative, visuals-rich research outcome in the form of nine collages
Visual/verbal collages can be a viable rapid-response format in cross-disciplinary work
Keywords: collage; fashion; sports; sportswear; technology; history; design; generative; process.
Disclaimer
If the purpose of a moodboard, as a distinct form of collage, is to produce ideas (or, more accurately, inspiration, or vibes), the ideas produced may be assessed and utilised at will. Quantitative or qualitative assessments of these ideas may be applied in different ways, coming to different conclusions, but ultimately some of these ideas may be bad ideas. The author accepts no liability for the application of said bad ideas, or any other downsides of emergent networked phenomena that arise from the work.
As the author understands fashion to be ironic in form, it is hoped that the formal and tonal experimentation in the work is understood not as parody, but as a pastiche, meant with all the affection that the term shares with collage. Certain images, concepts and forms are brought together and in the sincere incorporation of fashionable imitation, a funhouse mirroring, with the lightness and breezy remixing that such ideas entail, new possibilities are iterated.
Description
This project is the culmination of three years of in-depth interdisciplinary research. It began with an identified need to develop the field of sportswear history through the medium of visual archival research. Funding from Techne, the doctoral training partnership, was awarded in order to produce a body of work, developed out of under-utilised object- and image-based collections in museums, with a particular focus on textiles. A range of methodologies and processes were utilised over the three-year period, with graphic artworks, essays, discographies and poetry forming a portfolio of creative markers. The need for a concluding summative statement was established and ‘Podium’ is the result. A triptych of triptychs, it blends ephemeral digital collections, historic sporting imagery, film stills and fashion imagery in a collage process that highlights the vast potential of fashion’s popular vernacular of the ‘moodboard’ to contribute to complex, forward-thinking research.
The images that constitute the raw data have been gathered through an extensive trawl of varied collections: from digitised collections held by major museums, uncatalogued archives, national library collections and stock photograph databases, to personal ephemera collections, deep-dive google searches, and movie screen grabs. Each panel is A2 in size and explores a facet of success, spanning the highs and lows of achieving the celebratory podium of many classic sports. Each panel is stacked, thematically and/or physically, vertically, one atop the other, to form a roughly six-foot block of three images. They can be presented staggered in the form of a podium, with silver, lower, on the right side of gold, and bronze, on the ‘first step’ on its left. The result is akin to a bar graph, and its statistical, data-heavy effect is an intrinsic result of rigorous processes of selection.
By taking imagery and information that would normally be consumed in linear fashion, in readily comprehensible context, and piling it upon itself, the hope is to achieve a sense of the vitality of embodied human competitive endeavour - its density and messiness. Each ‘medal’ or ‘position’ of three images was sorted according to an open-ended logic: the upper panel features triumphant themes, the centre panel technical, process-based themes, and the lower panel what can be considered the ‘downside’ of each position. As such, it forms a disrupted x-y axis of sorts, a flowing grid of perspectives and data points. Each medal is accompanied by a caption, gleaned from the written record, which highlights a story or set of data that offers a textual approach to this visually-rich collage-based research outcome.
Usage
Option A: Print and cut up the pages as you deem appropriate, shuffle and distribute the pieces while on a run, as if you were a school boy on a paperchase.
Option B: Turn a print-out into confetti. Trespass an academic seminar and decorate the room whenever someone stops talking.
Option C: Lay a panel on the floor, in the countryside. Ask your local fairy gang (nicely) to play a game of Twister, using dungeons and dragons’ dice and the colours of the sunset/sunrise as prompts. Make the winner your king.
Option D: Make it into a hat. If you do not have a head, don’t worry. Photoshop the hat onto pictures of celebrities instead.
Option E: Read each panel very literally as containing data points on a graph. The centre is the core of the axis and negative and positive data are above and below. What conclusions can you draw from the data-set? Does the study have any flaws?
Option F: Find Nietzsche.
Option G: Choose a character from among the panels. An athlete, model, or animal. They can change appearance throughout. Zoom in at various points, travelling randomly throughout the panels, back and forth. Tell a story about what is happening the character, based on what is happening around them. For example, in the gold panel, Lisa Simpson threatens to kill Homer Simpson. Homer then wakes up in the real world, shocked to be among the icons of Mount Rushmore. His head is then turned into the FIFA World Cup trophy. What happens to Homer next? Will Lisa pay for her crime?
Option H: Save a copy of your preferred panel to your hard drive. Email it as an attachment instead of calling in sick to work. They’ll learn what you mean eventually.
Option I: Invent another way through. Devise new rules.
more: rosannaghmaddock.co.uk/podium
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