pridge - Tumblr blog

[pridge]

To Hanoi and beyond - the end of the tour and finishing up in Vietnam

Once again I’ve lost track of when I last wrote….and am also not online thanks to Starbucks only allowing 30 mins connection and me now being checked out of my hotel! So we will see where this goes and there may be some repetition!!

I fly back home to the UK tonight. Whatever possessed me to book an 11pm flight I don’t know….as bit hard even lugging one small bag around Hong Kong. But I have spent several hours by the pool, in the shade, enjoying the last of the heat and devouring the 4th book in a series I only started a couple of weeks back. Thank god for Kindle!! As much as I hate the slow erosion of the traditional book industry, as I love books and the smell of new books, I also love the convenience and the access it gives authors to get published.

So, the two week tour is over. We finished off in Hanoi, after some more great visits and fun times. The diverse group, and Ha our tour guide, really did make it good fun. Hanoi, as the capital and with a different history to Saigon, really is very different. Although I have to admit to only really seeing the old city. Having forgone the final train to fly up to Hanoi alongside two of my fellow travellers, I awoke in my air-con hotel room for a quick jaunt to the hotel we were staying at as a group. They looked better than I would if I’d had another night “sleep” on a train where the beds seem to be designed to be 2 inches too short for me – and thus very uncomfortable. Thus my decision to fly! Plus flight was £40 and door to door took 5 hours or so….rather than 12 hours on the train.

Having regrouped, we were led off for a walk through Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum. Having not yet in my life visited an in-use mausoleum, I’ve seen a few empty ancient ruined ones, I really didn’t know what to expect. So how to describe it. Well, Ho Chi Minh is clearly, and understandably, a national hero in Vietnam. He was the leader against the French colonialist power, and then against the Americans and what was seen (probably justifiably) as the puppet government in the south. So he is held on a very high pedestal. He was a fascinating man – having travelled the world in his younger years including Paris where he grew many of his communist ideas, as well as New York and London. He also it seems spent time in Russia, but sadly didn’t get to meet Lenin (who had recently passed away to be replaced by that template of all dictators – Stalin). Anyway, Ho Chi Minh it seems lived a simple life whilst leading the country (although maybe not as celibate at the Vietnamese creationg “myth” would like you to believe). And as such he is central to the modern Vietnam political and national culture.

So what is a mausoleum you ask….well look it up. But they generally contain the bodies of the dead so people can still visit them. To give you an idea of what this means….current main mausoleums around the world are for Chairman Mao in China, Lenin in Russia (Stalin was removed in the early 1990’s), and I think the first great leader of North Korea. Essentially the bodies are preserved, although no-one seems clear how, so that visitors can pay their respects. The preservation seems to be a closely guarded secret of Russia, who kicked off the modern trend – which kind of makes sense having abolished religion they replaced it with leader worship….what is it with us humans! There is also some speculation as to whether we are actually seeing the bodies or some spectacular fakes. Anyway, it was fascinating.

After a long long queue – I thought Harry Potter Ride at Disney was a long queue – but very well organised by the ceremonial soldiers in their crisp white uniforms – we did get inside. Oh, I should also say there are two queues. One for the public….and another for little schoolkids – of which there were hundreds of 5-7 year olds queuing up with their teachers to visit! I cannot imagine why a one party state would want to do that….oh well besides the obvious early indoctrination.

We then entered the mausoleum, and were ordered to stay silent and respectful, and had to enter two by two, a little like boarding the arc. And there he was – laying there looking very peaceful and chilled (literally as his body is in a sealed temperature controlled box). The site of the mausoleum itself is fascinating – as it is on the site of where Ho Chi Minh lived whilst leader and then elder statesman of Vietnam. It had his simple dwellings where he lived – which the thousands of tourists all got to visit. The mausoleum is also opposite the national assembly building – which is the heart of the Vietnamese parliament and government. I do need to check out how a parliament works in a one party communist state. But the symbolism is very evident.

On that note….I think I have mentioned this before. But a communist country where health care and school has to be paid for. And there is a very free market economy. Just odd. Again, I need to understand more before really commenting.

Anyway having been to Ho Chi Land, sorry I mean the venerated late leaders mausoleum (I probably won’t ever be allowed back into Vietnam once I post this!!), the group all went and did our own thing. The rest of this will be somewhat out of order as I try and capture key moments.

The Hanoi Hilton – the old French colonial prison, converted first to a POW camp for American pilots, and now into a “museum”. And I say museum in the loosest sense. It is more a memorial to the many deaths caused by the fight against colonial rule and interference whilst gaining independence. There is probably no doubt the French were harsh with their dissidents at the time. What I struggled with was the portrayal of it as some form of great place to keep American prisoners. When the facts of the situation were many were tortured, left disabled and without proper medical treatment and scared for life. Not actually the basketball, table tennis and relaxed environment it was painted out to be. Maybe this is part of the whole reconciliation with the past and with the USA, not to dwell on this side of it. I just found it rather disingenuous after the relatively well put together other museums I’d seen in Vietnam.

The Women’s Museum on the other hand was great. A very well put together celebration and insight into the important role of women in Vietnamese history and culture. Whether their roles in the family and society, or in the independence struggle, or contribution to art and politics. This was a respectful and enjoyable museum that also gave further insight into the various other ethnic cultures that make up Vietnam as a whole.

It was in Hanoi as well that I had my first egg coffee. And I have to say it surpassed what I expected. I am now torn between that and coconut coffee as my current favourite coffee. I am not clear how it is made, but something to do with either the egg whites….or the egg yolks? Coffee, obviously. Sugar maybe….anyway it was amazing. I have a book being delivered by Amazon for when I get home on coffee and how to brew it, make it etc – and have also ordered Vietnamese coffee makers. So I will be experimenting.

It was from Hanoi that two of the highlights of the tour, if not my whole trip came. Firstly the homestay in the hills (mountains in the UK) about 4-5 hours drive outside Hanoi. After heavy rain the night before we were all a bit unsure how this would play out – especially after a number of eventful elements. Our little bus, which on the roads out here counted over 20,000 steps in the journey – it was that bumpy – coped well with the rain. I think we were all having a few doubts though – our first toilet stop allowed us to watch some torrential rain from under cover – before the whole thing early fell apart when our route was blocked because, well the bridge or road had kind of washed away and was now essentially a fast flowing waterfall. Our driver and Ha found a way round this, and we proceeded higher in the mountains.

Many really enjoyed this bit – with the sheer drops and the beautiful scenery. I just sweated as I hid on the other side of the bus. My fear of heights is something I really wish I didn’t have. It stops me doing a lot of stuff part of me would like to do – but I know I just don’t have the courage to push myself to do. I love a good adrenalin rush – but getting to these things seems to involve journeys that just make me terrified and sick. So I am not sure of the upside of it. Anyway, as we got into the mountains we then got stuck due to a recent rock slide. It had been largely cleared….phew….but then the bus got stuck on a number of large rocks. I literally couldn’t breathe as the bus first of all bounced over these boulders on this single track by a sheer drop….then got bloody stuck.

So we got out and started walking to the village, which luckily wasn’t far, whilst the driver remained to try and unstick it. Which he eventually did. We then got the village in the hills, and had another great local meal. There was some debate then as to whether to do our trek to the homestay. I had mixed feelings – it was hot and the weather a bit changeable. Also, I have to be honest and I was a bit worried about what heights I may have to contend with during it.

In the end we set-off on a 5km hike, which in reality I think was more like 7-8km. Which itself was very enjoyable. It was humid as anything – which meant everyone was drenched in sweat from the first steps, but it was overcast and we were thankful – as doing that in the 35 degrees and sun we had seen up to that point would have been terrible. Instead we had about 30 degrees and overcast – and this made for some amazing views of the valleys and the low clouds. It wasn’t a terribly tough walk in terms of terrain, there were some ups and downs, but nothing that felt death defying. In the end it was more than worth it for the serenity, the scenery and the exercise.

As we emerged from a gorge onto a pebbly beach by a large lake (in fact a reservoir) our boat was waiting for us to take us to the homestay. The journey to the homestay was pretty special as we chugged along on our boat. When I say boat, it was more like a large sardine tin with some of the can still there as a roof and a motor at the back. But it was delightful as we all realised we’d survived an exhausting trek, and needed food and beer. The homestay had that, and was so much more.

As we rounded out of another gorgeous valley formed by the reservoir we say where we were staying ahead of us. At the riverfront of a small village of a few hundred people they’d built a nice, but not luxurious, stilt house. We had hot showers. We had cold beer. We had great local food. Then we had some traditional dancing – which was both authentic (as in felt real, partly because it felt like the locals weren’t entirely practiced, but also friendly) and fun. We were asked if we could perform something from our culture – but our mix of Aussies, Brits, Canadian and Poles struggled to come up with anything that connected us, let alone that we could perform. Our ideas ranged from national anthems, to Saturday Night by Wigfield. We managed to get out of it by essentially making clear we were both lacking in talent and culture. It was interesting as in a village of 300 we probably had all the local girls dancing for us. This reminded me of my earlier concerns about tourist imperialism and ruination of local cultures. This real performance though, for tourists, was perhaps in this instance, a way of keeping their traditions and culture alive in the face of the westernisation going on across so much of Asia. I hope it never just turns into “another tourist attraction” for them though.

After a decent night sleep, maybe helped by rice wine, in the communal hut, we left with slightly heavy hearts after such beautiful surroundings and friendly people. We even met the village elder, who at 85 had moved to the village as a small child and never left. Weird thinking about how little had changed in her world beyond electricity and communication, whilst so much of the wider world went through so much in that period.

The boat trip then took 2 hours across this vast reservoir. It gave you a real feel for some of the local life though. They were clearly farming the forests, as shown by burnt out areas, and evidence of logging, but not in the chaotic way you might imagine. For every burnt out area, there was an area showing new or young growth. They clearly realise instinctively the need to sustain their resources, whilst they control them at least. All the while remaining so poor by western, and even Vietnamese city standards.

After returning to Hanoi and the chaos of the city streets that continued to bemuse and mystify some of my fellow travellers, our next major trip was to Ha Long Bay. Before that though, I must say something about the streets of Hanoi. It is a strange place in the old city. Each street seems to be its own shopping speciality – we were staying on what can best be described as hardware street – selling locks, chains, metal wheels, screws. If you walked round the corner you might find yourself in home lighting street, or zipper and tassle street, or home fabric street, or shoe street – or pretty much any street. It is charming – but also just so strange. How does having dozens of shops selling the same thing for a whole street make any sense? If you need a new padlock, you have to travel across the city to this one street to buy it – and all the shops are literally the same! So charming yes. Makes supply chain easy I suppose as wholesalers just have to deliver to one street. But makes no sense to me. Maybe I am searching for sense in things I shouldn’t be, and should just accept the difference of it all.

So Ha Long Bay. This was a real challenging experience. One of Vietnams main tourist attractions are the 140million year old islands that still out to create this bay, there are more than 1,000 of them. All largely uninhabited in this UNESCO world heritage site. As such there is a teaming port and hotel land being created to service it. Luckily the authorities have limited construction of new boats, which means at least it shouldn’t be getting any worse. As there are a LOT of boats and a LOT of tourists. Leaving the bay on our private boat felt a bit like leaving as part of some form of armada. Just one full of people with cameras!! This all felt somehow wrong to me. As we stormed out of the bay we headed for our first site – the largest caves in the islands.

Whilst sceptical, these caves were wonderful and also fun. By this point our merry little band of travellers had bonded somewhat and there was lots of laughter and childish behaviour as we went through the caves. Not helped by halfway through there being one rock formation that a local guide described to his elderly Japanese group as the “rifle rock”….now let me tell you  - it did not look much like a rifle. Frankly, it was an erect penis. Sticking out at 45 degrees and of a red hue of rock. Our group could barely contain our giggles after this. As we looked for more and more weird and wonderful sites in these beautiful caves, whilst Ha attempted to keep some semblance of order, and we frankly behaved like 6 year olds on a school trip without supervision.

The rest then climbed a massive hill, whilst I avoided getting stuck halfway up the steep and narrow walk and thus embarrassing myself, by relaxing on the sundeck of the boat all by myself. That evening we had yet more good local food – and then cracked on with karaoke. Not the widest selection of tunes, and everyone clearly agreed I really cannot sing (which I had told people before, but not everyone was at the last karaoke), but what I completely lack in talent I try and make up for in eagerness. Another enjoyable night before retiring to our frankly very nice little cabins.

And with that, and out of order, this last part of the tour was one, and we were finished with Hanoi. My journey isn’t quite over as I still have a couple of final days in Hong Kong to reflect on as well as the trip overall. But we had a very nice time as a group – and there were no arguments or fallings out. We had such a great mix of people from those who needed to know the plans to those who would just wander off. From those who had an avid interest in any market available, to a couple of us who essentially avoided markets like the plague (I’d seen enough of them by then). Everyone was kind, funny, intelligent and often sarcastic. The last night meal I actually found sadder than I expected, having been possibly the one who spent the most time going off on their own and doing their own thing (often just drinking coffee with a book). Would I do another tour – maybe. But certainly more likely than before. I did find the whole thing hard at times, as I’ve explained in previous blogs, and brought back memories that were both sweet and bit bitter at the same time. And wasn’t easy not having anyone I knew well enough to talk to about it – and not wanting to drag anyone else into my occasional melancholy either!! Maybe something I’ll touch on again in my final reflections when I write them!

And then just like that I am on a flight back to Hong Kong as I start to make my way home!

[pridge]

And so a tour...and people!!

Day 9 of the 15 day final tour of Vietnam with Itrepid Travel. I think it is fair to say it is hot in Hue. And I mean really hot – the kind where showering in an air-conditioned room and then leaving the room is a bit pointless!! I am currently sat in a café overlooking what I can only assume is lake rather than a river, based on the fact it has a solid causeway across it! And sat with a fan going full blast in my face, which is making very little difference to the temperature….although rather that than not have it. Rest of the tour group, or most of them, are currently out on a bus tour, although Jill is on a bike tour, and think a couple of others are also doing very little like me today.

So, yes, I am with a group of people on this tour. Was nervous about meeting everyone on the first evening, for all my outward confidence and experience of networking and public speaking, I am still always full of butterflies before meeting new people. Anyway, turns out I had nothing to be worried about. A lovely bunch of people, made up of 3 Brits (including me), 1 Canadian, 1 Pole, and 7 Australians. Plus our tour guide Ha. An eclectic mix of people, but who all seem to get on and come from a wide variety of experiences, backgrounds and life stories – which makes it all the more interesting. I think fair to say we are a middle-aged group – but luckily doesn’t stop people wanting to have a laugh and a good time. It just means we are not a wild bunch of backpackers or millennials exploring their inner alcoholics. That is not to say we are not finding opportunities for a few drinks – but it is bit more civilized!

This may well jump around a bit as been to a lot of places since I last had chance to dig my laptop out of my bag! But a bit more on the group. It is interesting after my previous self-musings on why do I travel, to watching and listen to others and why they do it, and what they enjoy about it. We have a few keen photographers who are always looking for the next great photo to capture. And they are really quite good at it!! Some want to see the real life out here – which can be hard as tourists are often guided through things. Others I think just want that break from the day to day lives, or want to try and experience new things. Karaoke being an example that went well, as wasn’t sure based on early protestations whether anyone but me would “sing” (and I use the word sing for me in the loosest sense of the word). In the end it was hard to keep people of the microphone and we spent a fun two hours drinking, singing and dancing.

It is also fascinating hearing people talk about their lives, although we rarely get too deep, but a couple of people at least do seem to question what do they want to do going forwards. I do maybe miss out on some of it as well, because, well I am still getting used to actually travelling with other people. A weekend away with my uni friends Nath and Gaz, or visits to see people for a few days, is not the same as travelling with others. I haven’t done that for a long time!! In fact I think the last long holiday I had with anyone (besides some family holidays) was my honeymoon….which must have been 9 or 10 years ago. And I occasionally have to disappear to get my own space. But also needed a bit of time to reflect and unwind.

It has been a bit weird for me being on a tour, as had brought back memories of my last girlfriend, who is a tour guide like Ha, but for a younger age group around Europe. And reminds me of the happy times we had in the beginning with her getting ready to go through training, and the early period when she was in to me. Has also made me a bit melancholy at times, as I think she is someone I would have enjoyed holidaying with – which I hadn’t felt for quite a while, and would have been fun if we’d had chance. Frankly as well, also made me a bit angry, and I still struggle to deal with anger without turning it in on myself. So whilst the break up was understandable if she didn’t fancy me anymore….can’t argue much with that…her desire to stay friends, which I wasn’t sure I wanted to, but after reflecting decided I wanted to – seemed to lead to me making the effort – until I left the ball in her court back in January. And heard nothing since. So I am sure she had best intentions by saying she wanted to remain friends, but after I put myself through a lot of painful searching to decide I also wanted to – heard nothing. Just makes me a bit sad and angry. But anyway….enough of that. I may return to the travelling alone theme in another post in a few days – as been a fun but challenging experience for such an extended period of time. Anyway, know I’ve mentioned her a few times, but I don’t really have anyone to chat to about it out her, and I realise she is on my mind because of wider thoughts about life the universe and everything, not just her specifically.

Right, back to the tour and Vietnam. Starting out back in Ho Chi Minh/Saigon, after everyone had a little practice crossing the roads – which is essentially stay it slow ad steady, and don’t show fear, we made our way out into the Mekong for a homestay. Luckily, or unluckily, depending on your perspective, it was not a totally rural homestay with us all staying with local families. It was rustic, and in the middle of the Mekong Delta, but it was a nice set-up with decent cabins and mosquito nets, but with beer and water on hand, and some nice local food on a veranda overlooking whichever of the estuaries we were overlooking!! It was also an opportunity to try some rice wine, which was actually pretty good, and play some drinking games, which we involved some French retirees in – much to their disgust I think. The first game involved a chicken head and was essentially a drinking version of spin the bottle…but using a dead chicken head. We then moved onto an old hockey tour favourite of the tap tap game (as I’ve always called it). Was a fun evening, with plenty of laughter, and not too much drinking.

After an afternoon back in Saigon we leapt onto our first overnight train heading up to Nha Trang. The train was better than expected, but also quite basic. And we were in 1st class – and thank god for the aircon. We were stocked up on wine, beer and a few spirits so some of spent a bit of time chatting and getting to know each other in our cabin – think at one point were about 10 of us squeezed into our 4 berth cabin. The journey was pretty smooth, although by that I don’t mean the train wasn’t rattling and a shaking – as it was – but most people got a bit of sleep at least.

Nha Trang itself I wasn’t a big fan off. Whilst I didn’t see the Russian or Chinese hordes we were warned about, it is clearly growing into a big beach destination with a lot of construction and increasing amounts of neon lighting everywhere! Also, it was brought up, that talking about “Russian” or “Chinese” tourists was a bit disparaging, and I think I tend to agree. The Brits hardly have the best reputation in Spain for example, and it made me realise I was also grouping people together rather than thinking of everyone as just people doing their own thing. That doesn’t take away from my earlier concerns about tourism vs culture, or where does it all lead. But I am trying not to be judgemental about stereotypes of groups of tourists. As I wouldn’t want that about myself either.

Highlight of Nha Trang was definitely the boat trip we all took, which involved a nice bit of snorkling and some great food and punch on the boat. Whilst say some beautiful fish and a bit of coral, it was still quite sad to see how much of the coral was dead already. It did remind me how much I enjoy the water, and particularly snorkling, which I haven’t done since my diving course in Thailand 4 or 5 years ago. So will definitely be something I keep in mind for other trips.

We then had our next overnight train to Da Nang, which was slightly less comfortable. Me because, well frankly the beds are not big enough for me which led to a cramped night of restless sleep. One of our Aussie’s though was even more disturbed to find, after eating it, that his croissant he’d brought for breakfast had been nibbled by rats. So he, I and our one Polish representative are forgoing the final long overnight train to fly to Hanoi tonight….I know I know – not very adventurous. Tough.

Hoi An, where we were staying though was nice, and actually might have been nice to spend a bit longer there. A few of us went out on a bike tour partly into the countryside in the morning – which was hot enough. Was nice to get out into a bit of countryside. A few of us found it a bit weird that one of the stops and attractions was at the “oldest couple in Hoi An’s” house. Full credit for 75 years of marriage, which puts them in their 90’s. But felt all a bit exploitative. Although I am sure they get something out of it as well. Was just all a bit weirdly cultural Disney for me again!! On the upside, we did stop for a great coffee, where I discovered the joy of Vietnamese coconut coffee. Something I will be attempting to replicate when home, and badgering others to try. Essentially a mix of coffee, coconut milk and ground coconut. Although I have now had a variety of types – it is amazingly refreshing. I really did like Hoi An. Whilst the old quarter, which is a UNESCO site, is all rather touristy now, it still has some of the charm that has made it a tourist site. The amount of trees giving much needed shade, and the very low rise nature of the still seemingly traditional housing, along with in the evenings, the lanterns on display making use of all the trees is quite pretty. We also finally got chance to try karaoke! Which was new for most people I think besides Ha and myself. Although Ha put me to shame with his singing!!

We then had a 4 hour bus journey to Hue, where I currently sit. Up through some stunning mountains, on a well maintained road, but my natural fear of heights still kicked in as driving the right meant we were on the edge side most of the time. Nowhere near as hairy as the drive into the Atlas mountains in Morocco, but still not something I can bring myself to relax during.

Hue is also really nice, and again could spend a day or two longer here. The Imperial Palace, old citadel and the Vietnamese Forbidden City were also really interesting. There was a great display of old court documents, including notes made on them by the Emperors, along with translations. And also a bit of interpretation of this for each Emperor. Through this you can see not only the coming together of Vietnam in the 18th and 19th century, but the creeping French imperialism. As more and more power slipped away from the native rulers ,to the French. Until by the last Emperor, who was educated in France itself, built a tennis court in the palace grounds. There was some amazing photos from the late 19th century onwards that gave a small glimpse into the life of the rulers. The hierarchical nature of the court, the waxing and waning power of the Dowager Empress depending on who was Emperor, as well as a great context for the sadly few buildings still remaining after bombing during the Vietnam War.

It is interesting microcosm of Vietnam itself as well. A country that has a lot of pride, and has for centuries been dominated or ruled by others – whether the Khymer, the Chinese, the French or the Americans. But seems to have a strong cultural identity – although hard to tell how real that is from being a tourist! Or whether it is a more modern construction. On top of that, a Communist Country, where one of its main cultural sites and tourist attractions is actually an Imperial Palace. There is now money being put into it – but the Communists who overthrew the monarchy – to reconstruct an Imperial Palace. This may help with creating an even stronger cultural identity – but one that is linked a monarchy – that was largely a puppet of the French for 75 years of its 150-200 years. How does a communist government square that circle in its head. Especially when it is also a major tourist attraction and is bringing more and more foreign money and therefore influence and culture in the country. It makes sense from a pure tourist attraction point of view, but not for a Communist country.

Having said that….education and healthcare both have to be paid for by the population….so I am not entirely clear how Communist the country can claim to be. I am though rather ignorant on this, so need to read up and understand it a bit better. Maybe something for me to look into on some hopefully a few more chilling and relaxing days – as am really enjoying the opportunity to do very little.

Coming up we have another homestay up near Hanoi, a 10km trek to get there, a night in Halong Bay, as well as a bit of Hanoi. Although the weather forecast is less favourable. Still high 20’s C into 30’s C. But with some rain and thunderstorms. On upside may mean less constantly applying sun lotion – which has stunted tanning opportunities a bit – but then again been too hot to actually sit in the sun really. Anyway. Then it is all over!! A couple of days in Hong Kong before home. Not sure how I feel about it. I am missing home a fair bit now – friends and family. Am also looking forward to getting stuck into a new job once back. Although before that I do have Budapest with Nath and Gaz to squeeze in!

It is great to have some people as company, and there are plenty of laughs, and everyone is pretty laid back and organised – which means we don’t end up lost or missing trains. Or maybe Ha is just doing a great job of keeping us on track.

So as most head off shortly for their 12 hour rat infested train, we will head to the airport, for what I hope is a quick and easy 1 hour flight up to Hanoi. A city I am very much looking forward to!

[pridge]

Travelling and tourism dilemmas

I’ve been reflecting on why I am travelling. I mean why am I doing it? Maybe this is partly still off the back of Jax who was addicted to travel, and me trying to work out why? I know why I love Toronto. It is different but familiar. I love the sport there. The people are great. I have some amazing and important friends out there. Vancouver also most of that, plus more rustically beautiful. Europe, so full of history I understand. But why did I want to experience something different. So different? Maybe I want to understand those who have that wanderlust – which I am not sure I have. I am still not entirely sure why I travel anywhere – not totally. I think I started out trying to understand others better, as am pretty comfortable with myself these days, but a lot of the trip so far has made me revisit my own views of the world. But also to question what any of us are trying to achieve – and what is really important?

Anyway I may go crazy if I hear “tuk tuk” one more time, when I am normally only walking less than a mile. Or the guilt of not giving money to all the deserving disabled beggars here – which would end up costing a fortune you get it so much. Or the wondering which western guys are with their Cambodian partners for love….and which are…..well less so (brought home by an old overweight Australian guy propositioning an admittedly pretty young waitress at lunch – whilst the woman he was with was off taking a phone call. Propositioned her using hand gestures!!). And then wondering why it should bother me either way….but I will get back to that.

What I do love are the sights and sounds and smells of travelling. The unmistakable smell of incense at a Buddhist temple or shrine. The smell of the fresh food, meats and fish, and spices. The reflection of seeing the strong will stoicism of those left even further behind – the disabled and the ill. With the only free hospital for children is running out of money – 800 children seen in a 9 hour day….The art that is so familiar but also so different with the blend of Buddhism and Hinduism. The chaos and vibrancy of the cities I’ve seen that are so much more alive than those in the West I’ve visited. The food and the coffee is amazing though!! I also love watching the card readers help couples decide if their a match, or reading palms, as everyone – locals and expats and tourists – promenade along the river. Such a French thing to do Promenade!!

But. Then the money. The Chinese money is pouring in. Eliteville. Naga Casinos. Whole areas of high rises. Creating their own community here. Where does that leave the ordinary Cambodian? With an average of $4,000 per year….that’s an average remember. If my tuk tuk driver charged me $20 (he’d have done it for $15 but he was good – and I’d tied up $5 as a tip – but gave him more anyway). And a normal journey in city is $2-3. If they work 6 day weeks – and manage to make $25 per day somehow (it is not busy season here now so it will be less). That’s $125 dollars per week – which is $500 per month….which is $6,000 per year. Maybe.

Then I can’t work out how the restaurants or local shops make any money!! Even the more tourist places I find myself generally frequenting – charge maybe $7 for a main course, and $1 for a drink. That’s therefore after a few drinks….switching to £5. And they’re the more expensive ones. And most of them are 80% empty all the time. Maybe they make more in peak season….but does that cover the other 8 months of the year. The economics don’t make sense. Yes I get the rent, staff and food costs less….but the supply chain here is a mess! So how do those further down the supply chain make enough money to live – the people at the markets selling the food, let alone the farmers.

That is obviously my very western view of it. And yes maybe I am overthinking it. But Cambodia, which is a beautiful country in many ways from what little I’ve seen – is being dragged into Capitalism as that’s what everyone does! The growth of internet and technology out here is meaning the youth want and expect more, and the only way to do that is to compete with the west – or rather to undercut the west.

This “progress” means those who have the money can have more for less, and make more on the back of those who have less. I’ve always been an instinctive free trader and felt that by dragging everyone upwards economically the world is better off. But that has always clashed with my more socialist leaning (ok at Uni possibly even Marxist for a bit) and equally instinctively not wanting to leave anyone behind – especially those who are unfortunate through circumstance – whether illness, fate of birth or just some form of bad luck. I don’t buy into the American Dream of the harder you work the better off you’ll be – look at the stats there. The richest 10% are better off than ever, whilst the 90% below that are struggling to exceed where their parents got to. Hardly progression….

But I digress. I guess the influx of Chinese money made me think about where does all this lead. Do places like Siem Reap and Phonm Pen become some weird “realistic” cultural Disneyland for those of us with money. Until part of getting of the beaten track is still no longer off the beaten track – but just part of a nationwide tourist experience. And therefore are we, the royal we, destroying existing cultures with our tourist imperialism. And does that even matter? I mean maybe that is just progress right? Backpackers may make themselves feel better by doing it on the cheap – but whilst they want to see the real country, and at times may do. A lot of them appear to be here for parties and cheap beer….with a quick 1 day wizz around Angor Wat and sunset cruise for $8 in Phonm Pen. Before on to the next destination.

I remember Bali a few years ago. Speaking to the guy who used to bring me my drink whilst sat by the pool, if I put up a little flag. He was also instrumental in getting me into Clash of Clans….geek I know. But he was saying that they are happy for tourist money as before tourism the whole family would spend 14 or more hours farming rice in the fields in the beating sun. Now one family member at a hotel can support the whole family compared to that. So that assuaged my building guilt….

That is Bali though. And is one persons view. And my perception and interpretation of it. This is a country still recovering from a genocide, French imperialism and American proxy wars (more bombs were dropped by USA on Cambodia in early 1970’s than were dropped in WW2 in terms of weight of explosives).

Textiles is still the biggest part of the Cambodian economy. But tourism is second. Without that cash where would the country be? Better off. Not economically. But would you have cities full of sex tourists. Which seems to be a way to make good money and potential escape route. And should I be judging that? My worry though is that as a global community we aren’t developing properly.

Whilst everyone is slowly getting better off, well not quite everyone I know, but as a whole. But at who’s expense? And at the cost of what dignity we should have. Or is sex tourism really that different to arranged marriages that still hold sway in much of the world? I really don’t know enough about that to really comment. I am also a hopeless romantic – which has always conflicted with my atheism and complete lack of belief in fate – so that colours my view of these things.

Anyway. Again, I don’t have answers. I have more questions for myself. As well as for anyone reading this. Having said that I am still not going to complain at $1 beer. So maybe I am a hypocrite. Or you need to visit these places before they are totally overwhelmed with the tourist industry, or does that make us all part of the problem. That may not even be a problem anyway. Confused? Yeah. Me too. But whilst in relationships, or thinking about them, I don’t like being confused. I like using my brain to consider these things – as part of who I am. Which is something I always hold onto.

[pridge]

The Capital of Cambodia - and the Genocide!!

Right where did I leave off…..am not actually sure as I sit writing this without wifi to check! So this may remain in if I don’t decide to edit it.

Firstly, for my own recollection, I am not sure if I mentioned the very cool cocktail bar I discovered way back in Saigon. Up some dark steps directly opposite my Airbnb, no signs at all. And then just a dark door you basically had to knock to enter. All based on US speakeasy’s in probation. Very cool. Although when I say discovered….that isn’t entirely true. As its on google and tripadvisor! But Columbus discovered America, and a French guy “discovered “ Angor Wat. So I’m claiming this!! There was also a really nice craft beer place just round the corner with a 3rd floor roof bar – so a height I can cope with.

As a segway back to current timeline. I now have rest of trip booked up and mapped out. Am due back in Saigon on Friday 13th, and then start my organised tour up the coast of Vietnam. I have subsequently left Siem Reap and currently in Cambodian capital of Phonm Pen. I had a pretty relaxing time in Siem Reap. Although nothing too exciting to report. Had a few beers and meals with a cool US defence lawyer called Dalin, who was also travelling alone. A lot of politics laden conversations, as a shared interest, as well as reflecting on travelling, culture and life. We had very similar views on the world, as he comes from west coast he is lucky to be in the majority there of being as bemused by Trump as we the rest of us. I also, hopefully, got over the worst of my final MBA module, largely sat in front of/under fans drinking iced coffee in various spots. Got a couple of daytimes set aside here the next couple of days to more or less finish my final assignment. So fingers crossed I have got the hang of this corporate finance stuff now!!

Had a very easy coach journey down to Phonm Pen. Chose to go with the quicker air-conditioned option, rather than mixing with locals and most backpackers on the $4 cheaper option. Despite the hotel pick-up not turning up until after we were due to leave, that seems fine over here, and there was unseasonal rains which appeared to cause chaos on the local roads! Only minor annoyance on the coach was the woman in the seat behind me seemed to not understand the concept of earphones – and had her music playing out of some form of mini-stereo. Luckily I just hid under my sound reducing earphones – but am sure probably annoyed hell out of a lot of rest of passengers.

Having then easily found my hotel in Phonm Pen, and having to turn down dozens of requests for “tuk tuk” from the local drivers – who all seemed totally bemused I’d want to walk 1km or less to my hotel!! Perfectly ok hotel in central area – I think. Right by night market which I may go and explore one evening. Headed out having refreshed myself to Larry’s Bar & Grill. Essentially seems to be an expat establishment, run and owned by Larry. Who was actually sat out front playing chess with a friend whilst I was there it turned out. Tough life!! Anyone who’s read my Facebook will also know that at this point I allowed myself to enter into a conversation with a slightly unhinged Swedish guy. My instincts were saying not to – but also I am aware that I shouldn’t just exist in my own bubble of the world.

As it turns out he was an alcoholic, who recently gave up weed. He was also essentially on a sex tour of asia, which he appears to do on a regular basis. And it turns out he is rather right-wing compared to me. Blames immigrants for his company folding, when in fact he basically admitted that GPS meant his taxi firm folded as competition became too hot. He was then also a BMW car salesman – but lost his job after some form of argument with his boss (who I checked – was not an immigrant). He was predicting the collapse of the Swedish economy due to the number of free-loading foreigners that were breaking their social security system. I know far too little about Sweden to possibly comment on the factual accuracy of this. Anyway, I listened, I felt disgusted at his views. But interesting to hear a different view point. I also had what I think he thought was great live advice from him, where he was telling me about this crazy prostitute he’d seen a few times in Thailand. He’d broken one of his own rules, which essentially is not to spend more than one time with a prostitute. But she then started acting crazy….his words….because she had fallen in love with him….which led to his great advice of essentially “don’t allow yourself to fall in love with a prostitute, especially a Thai one”. This was seen as good advice by him as it meant he could just walk away from this apparently crazy Thai prostitute. Just a different world out there – and one I frankly can’t stand, or understand, and don’t like.

I then had a few cold beers at the extortionate price of £1 a pint vs 70p in Siem Reap, and a bite to eat. And found myself talking to a very nice Australian/New Zealand couple. Both on their last night in Cambodia before heading back to Sydney. We had some long conversations, and we were all equally bemused by the whole “ladies” bars in Phonm Pen, which I’d heard from others about, and there are similar in Saigon I think. Where basically as a western guy you pay slightly more than normal for your beer, but you end up having a number of local girls who work there hanging on your every word. They are not officially prostitutes it seems….but can be….all very confusing and weird. I think I would rather sit on my own with my book than to have women pretend to be interested in me because that’s there job!!

Anyway, enough about prostitutes. As a complete and utter opposite. Visited the S-21 museum and the Killing Fields today. Bit hard to know where to start really. Having visited German concentration camps in Poland, the holocaust museum in Jerusalem and more recently the very hard hitting Vietnam War museum in Saigon, I was wondering how this would impact me. Both were exceptionally well done – and had really great audio tours.

The  S-21 prison, was essentially an old school that was converted into a prison for interrogation. And on this they did not hold back. I’d be doing it something of a disservice if I didn’t at least try and describe it a bit – as best I can. First off, well it is a school. And they converted into into a place of torture and horror.

Actually – step back briefly. So a few bits of context for Cambodia. In a nutshell they suffered due to the Vietnam War and Cold War going on at the time – with essentially first a French and then a US back government – which always ends well. The last of these was put in power in 1970 as the Vietnam war was just going from bad to worse for the USA. At the same time there were the Khmer Rouge building up their power in the mountain and jungle villages, essentially a vaguely communist, but largely nationalist, party. Led by the secretive Pol Pot, it seems very few of his people knew his real intentions. Essentially he wanted to return Cambodia to how it was in the 10th-12th century. And by that I don’t mean being a strong empire again, although he did want that, but he wanted to do that by returning to a rural agrarian society. Essentially he wanted to dismantle the current country and rebuild it in a rose tinted image of its past.

Having come to power in 1975 – with another glorious American airlift to empty their embassy. The Khmer Rouge then proceeded to order the evacuation of all the cities and relocation of people to the countryside. Keeping in mind, for example, that Phonm Pen had approx. 3m people there at the time. Within weeks, the estimated population was 50,000 loyal Khmer Rouge. Alongside this, they decided the only way to achieve Pol Pot’s vision was to eradicate intellectuals, artists, teachers – in fact wearing glasses meant you probably just disappeared.

This eventually led to an estimated 1 in 4 people being killed either directly or indirectly (disease, starvation etc caused by the forced relocations of people to the countryside). Let that sink in. 1 in 4. That was 3m people in 4 years. 3m is a lot – although sadly other genocides have bigger numbers sadly. The figure of 1 in 4. If you still have your parents, and a sibling. That means one of you would have been dead by the end of this. Imagine losing 1 in 4 of all the people you knew, or of your friends. And often not knowing what happened to them, or if you knew they had died, where their bodies were. 25% of one countries whole population – means no-one was unaffected. No-one. It is a deep scar that it is hard to imagine how to ever heal, or even what damage it has done to the collective as well as individual psyche.

S-21. Where people were interrogated under the most terrible torture until they admitted to essentially anything. They were water-boarded (the gentle sound US name), they were locked in tanks full of biting insects, they were beaten bloody, they had fingers and toes cut off. All whilst spending most of their days either locked in unbearably tiny and hot cells, or perhaps worse, in large rooms chained to multiple other prisoners. They were not meant to be killed….as this was just meant to extract confessions. And in the end everyone confessed, which would lead to more arrests and more torture. When I say they confessed, I mean they signed that what they were being accused of was true and to give names of others. People were tortured into saying they were CIA and KGB agents (often at the same time), and often without knowing what the hell the CIA or KGB even were. Several of the blocks had barbed wire put up over the front of the building to stop people making attempts at suicide if they ever managed to get the brief chance to do so. And who could blame them for trying.

There were 12 known survivors of this place. 12, from the 100’s and 1000’s that passed through the doors. They escaped in 1979 when the Vietnamese army invaded Cambodia and overthrew Pol Pot (more on that in a bit).

The whole of S-21 was harrowing. And to see the pictures of the teenagers who basically ran the place – and to wonder how do people end up being able to justify torturing other human beings. And for what end? Did they really believe that they were getting accurate confessions. The whole thing was just a nightmare crazy.

Following that we leapt back on our bus to head to the Killing Fields. Of which there are more than 300 in Cambodia. These were the sites of mass execution that would come on the back of the torture – or just because you were an intellectual or a teacher, or in the wrong place at the wrong time. This particular one outside Phnom Pen had somewhere around 20,000 victims. And in keeping with Pol Pots vision this was not industrial genocide. This was done with crowbars, farm equipment, machetes or anything they had to hand. If Hitler’s holocaust was the disgusting pinnacle of organised industrial genocide, then this was, well I am not sure what it was. I think the only way to sum it up was one particular tree that they have evidence that shows was used to kill babies. And I literally mean by smashing their skulls against it before throwing them in a big pit. Just writing that makes me want to cry.

Once again though so many people say they were just following orders, or were scared for themselves or their own families. And who wouldn’t be under one of the most brutal regimes ever seen. The challenge for me though is how does a society allow itself to get to a stage where it even allows orders like this to become normal. How does it become normal to work as a concentration camp guard, or to work at a Stalinist gulag, or force millions of Armenians to match and starve to death in winter, or enforce the Cultural Revolution in China….and and and. The worst and though is what would any of us do differently in the circumstances. Undoubtedly there were monsters who could barely be classed as human giving the orders, or near the top, and even in the rank and file doing the doing. But that can’t explain the scale of any of this.

Similar to Nazi Germany, the Khmer Rouge deliberately dehumanized those it saw as a threat and wanted killed. For me this dehumanisation is what scares me the most. It is why I abhor racism, sexism, bigots and to a certain extent populism. As soon as you start seeing one human as less a human than you that can be a really slippy slope towards many many worse things. I believe people are fundamentally good – and often it is circumstances or context that leads people to do bad or evil things. But how do societies stop such atrocities and genocides in the future. I just don’t know. Rwanda was so recent. And the UK, USA, Russia, China, Australia and the UN were still recognising the Khmer Rouge as the “rightful government” of Cambodia as recently as 1991. 12 years after they’d actually been deposed by Vietnamese troops – and there is surely no way these atrocities were unknown. So the leaders of the world put politics and the Cold War above their own ethics and morals. And that is also scary. Again though, the context is hard, as I was too young to really remember the Cold War and the impact that had.

Overall, as you can probably tell it was a very moving and thought provoking day. Upsetting is an understatement.

To help process all that had a lovely long walk along the river here. They have a beautiful promenade that stretches quite some way. I waited for it a cool down a bit first, but was nice to stretch my legs for first time in ages. Also, it took me all the way down into what can only be described as a real locals area – but in the sense that there were lots of bars and restaurants in some sort of retail park – by a nightmarket – but all just locals there. Almost as if that is there way to avoid us tourists!

There is still obvious French influence in Phonm Pen – not just the street names, but a lot of the food and restaurants still have a very French flavour to them. So to finish on a more positive note – this place is a buzzing city, and hasn’t allowed itself to forget its past – both good and bad. But has endured and carried on. Maybe that is the essence of the human condition.

Am now just having a quiet beer and considering what to eat. Think I will retreat into a book as well as far too much thinking done today!!

[pridge]

Cambodia, Siem Reap and Angor Wat et al

Right, so I am trying to remember where I left off!! I know I was in HCMC at the time!! Found out I was actually staying near a couple of really nice bars, but just before I left….doh!! Also, finished up having some great seafood on seafood street – which is where all locals go – with a load of expats through Carter (who’s a friend of a friend).

Had a really simple flight up to Siem Reap – although on one of those planes that still has propellors…but it made it in one piece. Even though I easily in lowest 10% in terms of age for travellers on the flight. Which was a nice change. Assume everyone else was on the long haul buses I’ll be using to make my way back to Vietnam eventually.

Siem Reap itself is interesting. It has clearly grown to cater for the vast numbers of tourists pouring into this part of Cambodia for Angor Wat. The food remains great, the beer ridiculously cheap, and there is something of a laid back vibe still. It is a mix of western tourists, Chinese tourists, young and old. With a fair smattering of the rest of the world thrown in for good measure. It is also hot. But then again HCMC was hot. So not massive news really.

I am not sure if the tourist industry is destroying local culture, or just enabling businesses and people to take advantage of the cash flowing in from us. But for less than £20 a night for current hotel, and one round the corner I move to on Monday at around £15 per night. It doesn’t necessarily feel part of a backpacker culture, or that could be because I am staying in good hotels, and also not been out late yet, or that that side of Siem Reap is slowly being pushed out by busloads of tourists, pizza restaurants and even South East Asia’s best Mexican restaurant….self declared. Also only one I’ve seen though in the 3 cities I’ve been in so far.

I’ve decided to stay up here for an extra few days and ditch the Cambodian coast. Which, whilst recommended to me be by a couple of people, the most up to date reviews and speaking to a couple of people out here, is being heavily redeveloped and is thus full of construction and chaos at the moment. So decided to give it a miss. Instead staying another full week, partly to break back of final MBA module, but also to relax whilst doing it. Then bus down to Phnom Penh the capital for a few days, then bus back down for HCMC for a couple of days, before the tour for 14 days up the coast to Hanoi.

Angor Wat and surrounding area

It turns out I am actually quite ignorant of both Cambodian modern history, as well as the history associated with its greatest tourist attraction, the temple and city complex of Angor Wat. I have obviously, being me, read up a bit on this now. But I was lucky that the private guide I booked knows his stuff. The extra investment has been worth it, if exhausting, as there is so much to actually see – even over 3 days – and the heat is gruelling. Vanny though has been great.

He not only seems to know a hell of a lot, but he has steered us clear of main tourists times and at times areas. He also, I think, is a keen photographer, as is constantly insisting I take photos, as well as photos of me, and pointing out the best shots. Again, I actually think he knows his stuff. I am now drowning in great photos.

The first thing to really say about Angor Wat, is that is isn’t one thing. It is actually the remains of the temples, mainly, from a medieval city that actually probably numbered 1,000,000 people. This was at the height of the Khmer Empire, and saw the building of all the main temples between the 10th and 12th century. The temples are a real mix of Buddhism and Hinduism, which seemed to alternate as the main religion (it is now a branch of Buddhism). This in itself I find fascinating. As one of them essentially isn’t a religion as most people would understand it, with Buddhism not having a god or all powerful being. Whilst Hinduism has, for want of a better word, a whole pantheon of gods that have grown over 1,000’s of years. I am still not clear how the two mix together, but most temples seem to try – although those still in use are predominantly Buddhist.  It has made me want to discover more about the Hindu stories associated with their religion, as Vanny has told me many, and they are delightful if confusing. But also very clever, and often hold an inner meaning. There are also a lot of similarities with Greek myths, which I’d love to understand more about, or if just coincidence.

I also love the fact that in the “west” we talk about Angor Wat being discovered….when in fact there had been people living continuously in the area since they got abandoned at religious centres in the 14th and 15th century. So, a lot of people knew they were there. Just we didn’t!!

I have lost track of how many temples I have now seen.

Obviously the glorious and huge Angor Wat itself. Which actually looks “normal” size, until you are in it. And then it is properly huge. The construction is a rival to anything I’ve seen, with stone blocks perfectly fitted together in a mammoth construction project. The friezes along all sides are as impressive as anything the Greeks or the Romans created, and are longer than football field in length of intricate stone carving. something I cannot get my head around how they actually achieved it over such a huge span. Sadly both sunset and sunrise were somewhat undermined by clouds, but personally, besides getting up stupidly early today, I am not feeling too gutted about that – as seen some amazing sites.

Angor Thom, which was the centre of the old capital. Has a brutal beauty, with its towers of the 4 faces of Brahma. Originally 39 towers, representing the 39 nine provinces of the empire, not all still stand. But it is still an impressive sight, with every turn you take you are faced with more and more incredibly large and thoughtful looking faces. This is where the merging of faiths is interesting, as they are clearly Buddhist faces BUT on a Hindu god.

The host of smaller, and when I say smaller, they are often still massive, has shown such a variety of imagery and architecture that it has been fascinating. And again Vanny, has been a great guide.

All this does make me wonder though, as to are people, including me, just visiting sites because we feel we should. Don’t get me wrong, this place is up there with Chichen Itza, Jerusalem, Rome and the Pyramids. But I wonder whether we are all chasing something that we have lost. I am not sure what it is we have lost. But am I any different from those who jump out of planes or bungee jump for their thrills, but I am trying to “thrill” myself in a different way. I do wonder how so many western and developed countries, particularly those that are more capitalist, have such high incidents of mental health issues, suicide and unhappiness (however the experts measure that).

I certainly have no answers to the questions I am asking right now – and I’ve spent a lot of time reading and studying this stuff over the years. It is just interesting on these travels to see the intermingling of cultures, and to reflect on what it is, if anything, that I may be missing or searching for. And whether that missing or searching for is because of the culture and society I have grown up in, or if it is more basic than that. Or if I need to be searching at all. One of the most interesting parts of having a bit of time to just sit and do nothing, is to watch everyone else chasing and doing stuff.

I’m not great at meeting new people and not sure I need or want to, and am generally quite happy at the moment with my Kindle, so I find it interesting to sit and watch the rest of the world interact around me. So many people are always dashing places, as if this is their last moment to do something. Rather than literally, sitting and smelling the roses. Not saying I always find that easy. But I have the slight luxury of situation and personality that I am having to do that.

[pridge]

Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) or Saigon?

So I’ve been here a few days now, and the heat is fantastic if exhausting! Even with aircon in a lot of places a relatively humid 35 degrees can tire you, or it does me. Or it could be because I am relaxing. Who knows?? Anyway, feedback on my first blog was that some of my sentences were rather long, so I will try and write more precisely this time 😊

What is there to say about HCMC. Well it is suitably loud with the constant blare of car horns to help with road safety. It is an interesting contrast to Hong Kong, which has obviously had a longer period of investment, and also not suffered nearly 30 years of war!! It is full of motorbikes and mopeds. As that is the main mode of transport. Imagine everyone in London that uses the underground suddenly being transplanted to having to move around above ground….the streets would be packed so it makes sense to make use of such cheap and easy transport.

It is therefore an interesting mix between an emerging western culture, the traditions of colonial rule, and an output of Vietnamese culture and traditions. There are coffee shops everywhere. Some are so pretentious it is hard to know what you want to order! But they seem to enjoy their coffee as much as the French. And it is strong and keeps you on your feet.

The outstanding thing so far though is the food. Which has been amazing. I have been lucky to have a local ex-pat friend of a friend help me find my feet, and show me around a bit. This has been a massive help in terms of getting good exchange rates on the Dong, as well as sorting out a 4G card for my phone. But most of all pointing me in right direction for good places to eat as well as joining him and other expats for some great local food. I have become slightly obsessed with the pork dishes which are always amazing, and the use of mint and some spicy herbs that I don’t know the name of. It is so cheap, even for top grade food. Absolutely love it. 

Oh, and also, I rode around on the back of his motorcycle. Helmet included obviously! Whilst I didn’t really want to, he was helping me out, so I hopped on for a trip “round the corner”. We then spent the evening going around HCMC with me on the back of his bike. It sounds scary when you just sit and watch the traffic, and trust me I was nervous. But once you are in the traffic it feels very different. There is a flow to it. And it is also relatively slow moving, so you rarely get above 10-20 kph. It was certainly an experience, and something that really makes the city come alive when you’re in amongst the lifeblood of the city.

So, the first couple of days kind of passed in bit of a blur as I found my feet. Did a bit of my MBA study that needed doing, and explored the centre a bit. Initially I was staying at a pretty nice hotel right in the heart of the “party street”. Which to many sounds great, and it certainly had atmosphere. But is one of those things that on your own you feel a bit odd, certainly over here, where there are a lot of western men here for a certain purpose that is essentially the same as Thailand. And that “scouting” for either a wife or just I assume a prostitute, just makes me feel a bit sick. And you see plenty of mixed couples – but it is always much older white men with much younger Vietnamese women. Good luck to them I guess….but still just strikes me as rather strange. There are even bars, which are not brothels I’m told, where the guys just go for some attractive company and attention. I try not to feel sorry for these guys, as if that’s good for them then great, but it is just out of my comfort zone to imagine needing that.

Anyway, back to Saigon. Which is the name most people still use for it. Did a fantastic trip up the river to the Cu Chi tunnels, which was where the local guerrillas in the war for independence, dug themselves in north of Saigon and made it a death trap for the US and “puppet government” (the modern phrase for the national government as the Americans called it) soldiers. It was a beautiful trip on a speedboat up the river, and am going the other direction with the same company tomorrow down to the Mekong Delta for the day. And the scenery really did make me thinking of the river scenes in Apocalypse Now. Which probably isn’t something to bring up with the locals. The Tunnel complex itself has been turned into a surreal Disneyland for the Communist winners of the war for independence (and hard to disagree that they had more right on their side to be honest). Our guide was great, and whilst I didn’t learn anything particularly new, it was interesting to consider what drove a population to retreat into such horrible conditions. And it was essentially a war against the spread of Communism, rather than supporting any sort of independence. But, ask me more about the politics of it when I’m back! The propaganda film at the end was hilarious, filmed in the late 1960’s, when the North Vietnamese government were handing out medals such as “Great American Killer”, “Great Tank Killer”, and “Great Aircraft Killer”. Had a certain simplicity to it at least. Back to the film though.

It was interesting as it made you think about how the truth is portrayed, particular in this time of #fakenews and Fox News. It also makes you reflect on the old Pathe news and films we churned out during various wars. The truth is very slippery, and confusing. This film clearly was far from the truth, but it showed a certain side and point of view, as they wanted you to see it.

The other part of the tour was the chance to shoot weapons. Like proper heavy weapons. They had jeep mounted machine guns!! My initial reaction was no way. Then the idea of trying it appealed to my walnut sized male brain. Then the relatively high cost put me off (high for here - about £15 for 10 bullets). I ended up having this whole discussion with a very cool Canadian guy who was on trip with his wife and kids, and felt similarly weird and wrong about idea of shooting a weapon of mass destruction (and I kid you not - that is what these are). They may not be bombs or nerve gas. But shooting 5 bullets out of an AK47...I don’t know what I expected. The destructive power is just incredible, and incredibly scary. What part scared me as well, is that I can see the appeal now of shooting one of these things, on one level. I still felt sick doing it, and can’t see me ever doing so again. I also am now even more convinced, if that was possible, that the idea that anyone needs to own anything remotely like this is crazy. I am surprised that some of these mass shootings have not been worse. The power I think is what attracts people to these weapons. My animal brain can kind of understand that a bit. If you have a sharp stick, and the next caveman you meet has a stick with a sharp flint on the end, you want the same to better protect yourself and those you want to protect. BUT this is a whole different scale. We are also meant to be more civilized and part of communities compared to where we were 10,000 years ago...I am not sure how you convince people of this now though - more on are we civilized and propaganda later!!

Yesterday was a bit of a chill day and move to my new AirBnb, which was more in the financial and central district. A really decent place, and feels very secure and safe. Even if it is a bit sparse. Got it until Tuesday when I fly to Siem Reap to visit Angor Wat. Today I was back on the culture wagon though, with visits to the War History Museum, the Ho Chi Minh History Museum and the Independence Palace.

I was up early to try and beat the heat, but despite leaving the place at 8am, it was already sweltering. Made my way first to the Independence Palace, via an early morning iced coffee. And got there before the coaches started to pour in. It was actually a really nice piece of architecture. Despite being built in the 1960’s and 1970’s, it worked. Whilst it could have been a barren concrete monolith, the design was light and airy, and the use of the original 1970’s décor probably really helped. It was like a step back in time. Everything was trying to be space age classy, mixed in with some more traditional Asian styles. I liked the fusion style of retro-modern-kitsch – which I have just made up. Along with the more traditional touches, and of course the history. Seeing where various US diplomats, including Henry Kichenger, to try and sort out their “Asian problem” was a bit of a thrill.

I then made my way, via a fruit smoothie this time, to the previously named war crimes museum. I’d been warned this was a full on propaganda flood. It was, and it wasn’t. Whilst there was clearly bias, there is still clearly some recognition to be done for what seems like desperate measures. Desperate measures though in this case, do not seem to equal what was needed. The use of napalm and agent orange have caused untold destruction, and agent orange in particular as a nerve agent, impacts thousands of decedents today who are still living with inherited disabilities and disfiguration due to this dreadful use against civilian areas. Although I am sure the American generals saw these civilian areas as justified targets….which is where a guerrilla war gets really difficult! I am just not sure how anyone can justify this, and many other actions against both civilians and soliders, even in war. There were undoubted war crimes committed, even if the Vietnamese are not thanked for pointing this out.

I was left not sure what I was thinking. The imagery was too traumatic and upsetting. Images of American troops treating people like animals. Holding body parts up as if they were trophies in villages. And the aftermath of Agent Orange is too upsetting to even begin describe in words. I could barely look at the pictures and the suffering the victims suffered must have been immense. I wonder if part of that war, or the stress of being a world superpower facing off against the USSR, actually did something to the soul of such a great nation as the USA.

It was certainly bias, and massively skewed at times, but not to the degree I’d been expecting. That could be because I’ve read more, and particularly the recent BBC documentary, put the war in Vietnam into fresh light.

After a quick lunch of noodle soup, which I am slowly getting used to how to use chopsticks without making a total mess of the surrounding area, I headed off to the Ho Chi Minh History Museum. Such a contrast with the previous couple of museums. It was nearly deserted to begin with!! And it had a quaint feel of needing to exist, for the sake of national pride, rather than having a purpose. Probably a life metaphor in there for many people. It was nice to wander round the steam hot rooms of another old imperial (and when I say imperial I mean French imperial) palace. It had an odd collection of artefacts that were attempting to create a coherent story for Ho Chi Minh City. But without the finances of Hong Kong, a city with a similar history – ie it was a collection of farming villages until the west turned up and made a port of it – it was just sweet if anything.

The plastic crocodile I think mean there were or are crocodiles in the area. There was an underground bunker from the independence war that had a chair and table in it. There was some interesting insights into the various cultures of Vietnam through a description of the various wedding ceremonies that occur in different communities.

So that’s kind of it for today on culture. Up early for boat trip. Other main news is I have booked a 14 day rail and coach tour up to Hanoi for 3 weeks time from HCMC. I was finding it stressful trying to work out everywhere I wanted to go!! And I was wrestling with my goal of doing things on the fly….but I still have 2 and a bit weeks doing that in Cambodia. There was also part of me that frankly didn’t want to do a tour because of Jax’s job…but then I realised that was also really stupid thought. Although I did look at their major competitor, Kontiki – but they didn’t have any tours that fitted. So I will be doing some overnight trains, some staying with local villagers and seeing all the main places on my way up to Hanoi. And actually feels like a bit of a relief to have that last bit planned, so I can just focus on enjoying Cambodia and making my way back from Angor Wat to Ho Chi Minh. I’ve also got flights back from Hanoi to Hong Kong – and good job it turns out – as I am flying back around National Independence Day or something in Hong Kong, so flights were starting to get pretty busy and booked!!

It has been great so far, and days are flying by. I am not going to deny at times I wish I had someone to share the experiences with, someone to just turn to and say what did you think of that. But I am not getting down about that, well maybe once. I mean I can imagine Jax being over here, as she was a few years ago, and can see why she loved it so much. I don’t miss her per-se, but I can imagine her being great fun to travel with. At least I am not having to search out sky-dives, bungees and zip-lines. Overall though having a bit of study to do is kind of nice. I have my kindle and is nice to just chill with that, and unwind for what is probably the first time in far too many years. Been a long time since I felt comfortable enough in my own skin to want to spend this much time on my own. Been only a week and a day since I landed in Hong Kong, and its been fantastic and thought provoking – some of which I have covered above. Maybe more…maybe. Watch this space.

[pridge]

Hong Kong - entrepot or east meets west in glorious fusion

So Hong Kong. Former British Territory, now part of one nation, two solutions – or words to that effect. After a standard long haul flight – that is no sleep but perfectly airline airline food – and only those who also love airline food will understand that. Landed at Hong Kong on the disconcerting landing you hear about, where you feel you are about to enter Poseiden’s embrace, rather than setting wheels down on Mother Gaia. Yes, maybe I have been listening to Stephen Fry’s book on Greek Mythology on Audible.

But flight was good – the usual mix of chirpy and pissed off nearing retirement BA crew. A chatty women glad to be away from her grown children and visiting her sister out here. I did feel bad as I wasn’t the friendliest. The deep psychological reasoning behind that can wait, and also wouldn’t make me feel good about myself if I am honest.

Smooth and easy transfer from the airport to downtown and then a shuttle bus. Couldn’t be simpler. Score 1 for Hong Kong. Ibis Hotel, is well, its an Ibis. Clean, functional, white and red. Although one of those frustrating lift systems where 2 of the 5 only go down as far as reception. So of the 5 lifts you can only get to your room and back from ground without changing in 3 of them. Only a minor annoyance, but if anyone has ever had to wait for a bus with me knows I hate this sort of waiting, so waiting for a succession of lifts just bugs me. I won’t take a score off Hong Kong for that though!!

Day 1 was largely spent in Starbucks doing some MBA study, and then an online lecture at 4pm. Which was truly boring and shambolic. Why waste our time with an hour of repeating back previous learning materials, and 90mins of a disorganised tutor bumbling through 4 pieces of work but spending 45mins on the first bit. He’s teaching corporate finance, even I can do the maths and point out that that doesn’t leave time for the other bits. Oh well. Was all set for Symphony of Lights, but there was a bit of mizzle and it was rather cloudy, so put that off for tonight (tonight being Sunday). And instead just went and had few beers in the main social area where I’d spent the previous evening after the flight.

Today though Hong Kong has ratcheted up its scoring!! An early start, well up at 7am for breakfast, and then navigated my way via the clean, efficient, organised and uncrowded underground system to the cable car facility to take me up to Big Buddha. There is a better name for the whole region – but a giant bronze buddha is focal point. More on him shortly. The cable car, quite frankly, was great but I also hated it. My vertigo not quite in full power mode, but bad enough in breezy conditions to make it rather uncomfortable.

I then stepped off after the 6km and 25minute journey into a surreal environment that probably could encapsulates Hong Kong. It was like some form of weird Buddhist Disneyland. Actually, that is unfair. If you think of a Cotswold town full on antique shops and teddy bear shops that has focused on bringing in tourists. It felt more like that. Also, being Hong Kong, a major commercial opportunity – so your usual staples of Starbucks, Subway and 7-Eleven, alongside more traditional Chinese food and drink outlets, and tourist tat. All quaint enough, and I was early enough that is wasn’t in full on tourist mode so it felt more serene. Although I had to wait for my Starbucks coffee as it wasn’t open until 10am!! Disgraceful. Subway was open!!

Anyway I digress. I have to say. The Big Buddha as he is commonly refereed to, who I am sure has a much more reverential name, so he sounds less like Big Dave down the Queen Vic in a British sitcom, is suitably impressive. I mean massive. In fact, the world’s largest outdoor bronze buddha statue. I imagine only ones bigger might be made of stone carved out of a mountain or something….and the single piece of bronze his face is cast out of weighs in at 5 tons and is only 2cm thick. So that may give you an idea of how big he is. And then they put on top of a mountain/hill….with a lot of steps. Truly impressive viewing. But imagine hell to visit in summer and full of people. Having wandered round, and taken a few pics of scenery from high up, rather than from my usual vantage of low down, I went off exploring a bit. I followed some signs to something called the Garden of Wisdom (again my memory may be slightly out – but it included wisdom in it). This was bit off tourist track, local and from further abroad, but is a set of 38 wooden pillars engraved with one of the Karma Sutra’s – and they are not all about sex. This one is about emptiness. Sounds miserable I know. But reading the explanation – which may be posted with this – it was more about detaching yourself from yourself and feeling detached or something rather than the absence of anything. So that’s all good. It is a beautiful setting, and quite serene. I followed this up with a deserted “Tree Trail” walk. Which, as it says on the tin, was a walk that had signs about the various local trees, but it sells itself short. It also talked about shrubs, ferns, moss, and weirdly at times god….go figure. But was a few extra steps and time to just reflect on all the wisdom and enlightenment I’d been getting so far.

I returned to the Buddhaville via the temple of the monks who had originally pulled the whole giant bronze buddha on a mountain project together. Was fascinating. Not sure I have been to a proper Buddhist temple, although I feel I must have been. The smell of incense was wafting through the air, as seems to be a way to a) make money from visitors who buy and then burn the incense, and b) to do something in terms of celebrating Buddha (can you worship a guy who claimed he wasn’t divine and if memory serves didn’t believe in a deity). The Temple complex was joyously colourful, and full of reds, blues, golds – and such a great contrast in my mind to the western tradition of austerity in religious buildings. Don’t get me wrong our various branches of church make fair use of gold in chalices, and a lot of expensive stained glass windows, but this was just more joyfull somehow. Rather than trying to make you think of how insignificant you are compared to the big guy.

Having then convinced myself that I didn’t need to do another cable car, and used the justification to myself that I’d see some new stuff, and different parts of the area, I caught a public transport bus back down the train station. Freaked out a bit with the very squealing breaks. But hey, at least I wasn’t hanging from a cable swaying in the wind!!

So far – Big Buddha and associated areas several scores for Hong Kong. Minus 1 for Starbucks not being open until 10am.

I then used the incredible train network to get across towards the Museum of History. But stopped for lunch first….which I queued at some sort of traditional café for. Ummm….it was tasty. But such an interesting thing for a westerner. I got pieces of spicy toast glued together by butter. A coffee worse than Starbucks – and despite mentioning them a lot they are not great coffee. I also opted for the chicken curry and noddles. Wasn’t really thinking. I mean I am no slouch with Chopsticks – as in I can generally operate them. But This was a curry soup with noodles and chicken wings in it. Even with those little ceramic spoons you get for eating Chinese soup, I struggled. I tried to subtly see how others were eating theirs. It seemed a combination of using the spoon and chop sticks to hold the chicken whilst you chewed the meat off. Which I kind of mastered, well mastered may be a bit extreme. The noodles. Not a clue. Even trying to copy the locals where you seem to lift your mouth then bite so the hanging bits fall back in the soup – I ended up with myself and table covered in curry sauce. So, won’t be trying that again!!

Onwards to the Museum. All I can say. Is a job well done. Really well done. Considering it is essentially a history of Hong Kong – which is really a small island or two and a bit of land – with virtually no real archaeological evidence until about the 10th century AD. Prior to that it appears to be some fishing villages. Maybe some huts on stilts. That is not to denigrate the area. But it was hardly a cultural powerhouse like much of the middle east, Mediterranean basin, China, much of the Americas. So to make such a wonderful exhibition of this history was remarkable. I mean until we Brits stole it from China as a result of the two Opium Wars; what a proud time, starting wars in an effort to open a huge market up to opium (felt rather embarrassed and disgusted to be honest); it wasn’t much more than fishing villages still. So to be the metropolis and vibrant city of millions it is now in 150 years is remarkable. What the museum did so well though was to take you back to start of geological time and take you through the detailed history of Hong Kong area geologically. Who knew rocks were that interesting. And then create a lovely narrative about the early people living here.

They then somehow manage to create this narrative about the last 200 years that doesn’t feel judgemental, but you are allowed to make your own judgements. It points out the way the British (that is my country of birth so as not to detach myself in some form of post-colonial guilt) took over the place in the first place, and weave together an fascinating and complex narrative around all the good we did – in terms of sanitation, education, economic development, and the peaceful transfer to China – alongside all the bad – allowing slums to exist, riots, colonial them and us, coolie labour export (which we banned fairly quickly) and the export of young girls for prostitution (we only stopped this in the 1920’s).

All this without grandstanding about the new China. It is very proudly Hong Kong as a centre – us as the British, the Chinese, and rest of the world are bit part players. The one bit I felt a bit uncomfortable in was the deep exploration of the 4 main cultures that came together in Hong Kong pre-British rule. I mean it was fascinating to go into so much depth on the 4 distinct cultures that seemed to exist at the time, but it just felt like there was a tiny bit of bias to the “culture” and people that had been here since the 12th century, rather than those that started to come from other parts of China in the 16th century onwards. That could be me being far too touchy though as me, and as a historian at heart. Overall a great museum exhibition.

I spent nearly 4 hours there. That would normally be a British Museum or a Louvre for me. But if you looked at the amount of actual historical artefacts they had on offer, then Hong Kong wins. I mean, they had replica stone flint axes as they hadn’t actually found any!

Which again seems to sum up Hong Kong. Get down, get on with it, enjoy it, and take the wonderful mix of cultures they have here and use that as your strength. Tonight, after I finish writing this, the Symphony of Lights!!

So am now sat in a funky coffee shop in Vietnam – note to self – don’t wander around in midday heat!! This place is properly pretentious about coffee! But more on Vietnam another time. For now to finish up Hong Kong.

Symphony of Lights was good, I wouldn’t go as far as amazing or astounding, but it was definitely worth a bit of effort to see. It is basically a light show co-ordinated across a lot of tall buildings flashing in time to the music. Which is a great technical feat in itself – and certainly a good use of an amazing skyline. But it certainly isn’t mind-blowing.

Since that I have made the trip to Vietnam – which was nice and smooth. Everything ran to time, and I didn’t end up killing a ton of time at the airport by getting their stupidly early. Which I normally would, and freaked me out a bit. But had plenty of time even leaving it late for me!!

More on Vietnam when I’ve had chance to absorb it somewhat better.

[pridge]

La La Land...or Loopy Loo Land? Spoiler free

A near Oscar winner, but for a major gaff at the Oscars!! So how does La La Land do? Well I am, as I think have mentioned, a bit of a sucker for musicals on screen and stage. Whether its cheesy or not. Everything from classics like West Side Story and Singin’ in the Rain through to Mamma Mia and Moulin Rouge! Via the Lion King and Beauty and the Beast.

I am also a bit of a sucker for romantic comedies….from Love Actually to True Romance. So this film was set-up to be right in my sweet spot.

The soundtrack is very good, and at no point did it jar with me that they started dancing. This can be a challenge with musicals, but they managed to make it fit with the style and story really well. The use of colours worked wonderfully throughout, although I can imagine some people may find the bright and strong pallet a bit off-putting. They brought a technicolour feel to the whole film, which is clearly what they were going for. With the backdrop and sets to the movie being so classic Hollywood, or rather the stereotype of classic Hollywood, that the colours just worked for me.

After a slow start, I found myself warming to both characters, as played by Ryan Gosling and Emma Stone. Gosling as a frustrated jazz pianist, struggling to keep his inner jazz in (so to speak) in order to make a living in the more mainstream music circuit. Stone as a struggling actress pursuing her dream, and suffering endless auditions, that just never seem to work – whilst working in a coffee shop. These two dream chasers at first ignore each other….and you can probably guess a lot of the rest.

As someone who found themselves more recently liking jazz, having seen it live recently and realising the attraction, I possibly had more sympathy for Gosling’s character than I would have had a few years ago. Both characters are such Hollywood tropes of themselves that was really nothing else they could be to make this movie work.

At first I didn’t buy their chemistry, but they grew on me as the film went on. What I think this movie was trying to do was to show how hard it can be to follow your dreams vs the harsh reality of societal expectations of you. And how hard it can be to choose or balance the two, and to easily lose sight of your own happiness in the process. Did it achieve this….I guess it did a bit.

I personally found some of the scenes far too long, and at times unnecessary. Which kind of dragged out the film for me, when I got what they were going for, I didn’t need to shoved down my throat. I also, if I am honest, hated the last act. For me this felt far too much like the film trying to make itself more appealing to critics and award givers. It was a confusing mash of almost Dali like confusion. I just wasn’t really sure what was happening. It destroyed the nice linear nature of the film. Maybe they were trying to emphasise the jazz undertone of the film, with the competition and different routes jazz can go down to never produce the same song twice. I’d like to think it was this. But it will of appealed to professional critics and award givers more than someone like me who did not need 30 mins of it.

Overall though. I liked the love story with the two of them trying to balance their different lives and goals, and showing the real challenges everyone can have in understanding themselves let alone others. They did have real on-screen chemistry. I liked the artistry of the first 3 of the 4 acts, and the way the film was shot and often felt like it was on a magnificent old sound stage. A good film, and really pleased to see a musical doing so well and hopefully bringing the genre back. But not really an Oscar winner for me….so luckily it wasn’t!!

[pridge]

A bit behind...but catching up!

So, I’ve been rather remiss with my writing recently for a ton of different reasons!! But mainly just didn’t get round to it….so here are a ton of reviews all in one go. Hopefully all spoiler free. 

The Lego Batman Movie

So, I came into this off the back of loving the Lego Movie, and also as a huge comic book fan. Already, perhaps it is clear what direction this movie is going. I certainly didn’t hate the movie, I actually quite enjoyed it. But….and there was always a but coming….far too many of the good jokes were in the trailers, the characters just didn’t click for me the same way they did in the Lego Movie and whilst it was an enjoyable couple of hours I still felt disappointed.

I think this was more to do with my expectations, which were high. I just didn’t think this lived up to the warmth of character I got from the original Lego Movie, which had real heart. The Lego Batman Movie was trying to be too smart for its own good, and think it forgot to have any meaningful warmth. What warmth of character there was got quickly destroyed by some obvious humour.

This film had me smiling at the jokes, but rarely got close to making me actually laugh.

 Dunkirk

Well. What can I say about this film that hasn’t been said already. For me this was a masterpiece.

The score and soundtrack matched perfectly with the pacing of the film, and the drama unfolding on the screen in front of me. The lack of dialogue added to the weight of the tension that built up throughout the film. Whilst I was, I admit, a bit confused by the three different acts going at different timescales, they all came together beautifully towards the end.

There were no outstanding performances from the cast, as they were not needed. They just had to go with the flow of the film. The action was mesmerizing. And often, the lack of action was even more engrossing.

Having watched it in 4DX….yes 4DX….the seats move, you get sprayed with water, there is wind in your hair….this is the first film that actually benefitted from it! Although have to admit I did feel rather sea sick at stages.

The cinematography is basic in a way, but the film benefits from that. They keep it simple so you can focus on the action and the drama that keeps exploding, literally, all around you.

If I did scoring I would give this film 10/10….I came away exhausted, emotional and enthralled by what I had just seen. There are a couple of moments that jarred with me a little, but that is only compared to the brilliance of the rest of the film. In most normal films this would have been just part of it.

Oh, and as a lover of history, the slight historical inaccuracies bug me….but I just have to bury that pedantic side of me quite deep.

Dr Strange

This couldn’t be more different to Dunkirk. The latest character to come out of the Marvel machine ready for the big climax of the current phase of the cinematic universe. I have to admit as well that the Dr Strange character is one of my favourite comic book characters. Benedict Cumberbatch for me was perfectly cast for the arrogant surgeon who ends up as earth’s Sorcerer Supreme. So if any of that put your teeth on edge….frankly I am not sure you are going to enjoy this film.

It is even more full of comic book nonsense (which I love) than the other Marvel films. A lot of it makes little or no sense, as you are taken through a special effects led tale, full of action and random made up hocus pocus.

I enjoyed it well enough. Although I felt some of it was a bit one dimensional. Once you’ve stepped over the line of sanity into total weirdness, why stop and then try and make any of it make sense!!

A distinctly average addition, sadly, to the current universe. But was great to see Dr Strange finally hit the big screen.

 Guardians of the Galaxy 2

How do you follow the surprise hit of the Marvel Cinematic Universe. The original Guardian’s film was a surprise hit, and brought a ton of new fans into the comic book world. The delightful mix of characters that make up the dysfunctional Guardian’s superhero team, where you are often not even sure what their superpowers are!

The film is full again of the nod and a wink humour, as well as some more childish humour.

Dave Bautista is great again playing one of the roles he was made to play – the basic but heartfelt – Drax.

Vin Diesel reprises his role as Groot, this time regrowing from a baby.

Chris Pratt also plays the long suffering leader of the group trying to keep them together in a manner reminiscent of a sitcom.

This film kicks off with a typically entertaining and musically supported entrance that sets a high bar for the movie. Which sadly it cannot quite live up to. There are some moments where it has some moments that border on genuinely moving, but they don’t quite fit with the overall tone of the movie.

It is an amusing, and at times very funny, movie. But like the soundtrack, the movie does not live up to the promise of the first one. Like many others, I came away having really enjoyed it, but I couldn’t point to much now that was outstanding about it.

Moonlight

So the Oscar winner that nearly wasn’t thanks to some drunk PwC staff….we’ve all been there right….night out….few drinks…make a bit of a scene…..nearly ruin the Oscars and break a ton of hearts…..ok….so just me. Alright then.

This movie was a great movie. It was made to win Oscars and awards. How could it not. It is beautifully shot. Deals with some genuinely extremely important issues in a tender and emotional manner. The cast act their hearts out in it. The 3 acts that make up the film chart some heart-wrenching moments and work well despite the distance in time between each of them as we follow the main protagonist.

I found it boring though. I didn’t want to. I wanted to be drawn in and love the film from start to finish. I just wasn’t. Maybe it was whatever mood I may have been in at the time. But it felt like a movie made for critics. Not a movie made to be watched and loved. I guess that is fine. It is just a shame that such a critically acclaimed film had me playing Clash Royal during in on my phone, and not pausing to get water from the fridge!!

You should still give it a try. It may work better for you. Just didn’t work for me.

 Hell or High Water

Having seen Moonlight I decided to watch one of its Oscar competitors. This modern day retelling of a western, set in West Texas, was much more my thing. There, I said it off the bat.

It had the mix of anti-hero and hero – where the bad guys are clearly bad, but you also can’t help but root for them and want things to work out. The hero is….well….a bit obnoxious (played brilliantly by Jeff Bridges). This is essentially a bank heist western, with the sheriff chasing down the robbers across the desolate west Texan landscape. This ochre wasteland full of distant ranches, and populated by a rough and tumble background cast that seems so believable to an outside like me. They could be awful stereotypes for all I know!! But they work for this film. The dilapidated towns the story progresses through are the perfect backdrop to win your sympathy for the two main protagonists trying to make good, but in a bad and illegal way, before their time runs out.

This is a bit of a road trip movie, tinged with violence and a lot of non-PC discussion. It feels authentic and tragic. There are elements of a Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid vibe at times. You can’t quite decide who you are rooting for, and this adds to the tension in what is a relatively short film, or at least feels it. As the pace throughout is great.

I really enjoyed this film. But I am a bit of a sucker for a good western….and whilst not part of the traditional genre, it takes a look at the characters you’d see in one through a modern day lens full of diners rather than saloons, cars rather than horses, and high powered rifles rather than pistols.

A sadly overlooked film by many. Full of surprising emotion and left me astounded I’d not heard more about this film.

Spiderman – Homecoming

He’s back. The web-slinger is back for this 3rd reboot!! Probably the most recognisable Marvel comic book character is finally working with Marvel again, and after the sneak peak in Civil War, now gets his own movie. Sony still own him, but they have decided not to butcher him quite so much and get some people who know what they are doing involved.

This movie has been talked about a lot, at least in the social media and media I tend to read….but I think this is fair to say is the most thought through of the Spidey movies so far. No more origin stories with poor old Uncle Ben getting shot, and “with great power comes great responsibility” – we get it alright!! When I get superpowers, I have to do good things. Ok Uncle Ben’s spirit I promise!!

Instead we get something subtly but significantly different. We get a movie that focuses much more on Peter Parker as a teenage boy struggling as a geek at high school, struggling with his new found powers, struggling to work out where he fits in. So basically a normal teenager, except the middle one!! I mean teenagers think they have new powers….like drinking cider at the park and wearing too much aftershave…but that doesn’t allow them to lift cars or do back-flips or walk on the ceiling.

By fitting it into the Marvel Cinematic Universe as well they manage to also fast-track the origin story of The Vulture, a little known Spiderman villain in the comics (little known outside of well….us geeks).

Tom Holland is excellent at Peter Parker/Spiderman (if that is a spoiler for you….then I’m sorry but everyone knows that!!), who hits the mark as a teenager. I’ve never been to an American High School, so I can only base this on my imagination and all the many films that are based in them. But this one rings true. He wants to fit in at high school. He wants to do more with the Avengers. He is busy fighting low level crime in New York at night. All a lot for a teenage boy. And I found myself really feeling for him.

Michael Keaton is excellent as the villain of the piece. He has an emotional resonance that is set-up very early on. His motivations for what he does are actually very understandable to most of us. It may be illegal, but he is sticking it to “the man” and doing right by his family. He is also a well balanced power vs Spiderman – no giant pillars of light in the sky here or alien invasions!! So it seems well balanced and a bit fresh. More in common with some of the Marvel and DC villains on Netflix and other streaming, than the main Marvel Universe. Plus, Michael Keaton can’t half act.

Robert Downey Jnr reprises his role as Iron Man yet again. As some sort of mentor for Peter Parker. This is the one part of the movie that bugged the hell out of me. Yes Tony Stark is meant to be a huge egotistical playboy….but here his instructions and advice really don’t work for me. He’s literally the worst mentor. Better they’d given him Loki that this occasionally disengaged failed father figure. Don’t get me wrong, they play it light with Iron Man to give Spiderman space to be the core of the film, and there are a few amusing lines. It just didn’t ring true throughout.

Overall though the balance between High School angst movie, bit of crime solving, a load of well done action, and your usual superhero stuff was hugely enjoyable. There were also a number of twists that I didn’t expect, and the supporting cast were great throughout and would like to see more of them.

Welcome back Spidey!!

 Logan

Is this the last time we’ll see the very buff Hugh Jackman as Wolverine? It does seem like the last time we’ll see Patrick Stewart as Professor X…..so how did they do in their swansong?

Well firstly saw this in a nice little cinema, and also dragged my girlfriend along – and so was slightly nervous about her reaction to it.

I think it is fair to say that this was somewhat better than most other X-men related films. Maybe I just like dystopian future type films? This one perhaps isn’t so much dystopian as just all a bit of a mess. Logan, aka Wolverine, is in retirement and seemingly hiding. Just not clear from what. But he appears to have had enough of the world, and is now working as a limo driver whilst also strangely living over the border in Mexico…

This is another film that has touches of the old fashioned western about it, with the scenery of bleak deserts and run down townships, with a fair share of violence.

The interplay between Wolverine and Professor X is actually quite touching. But the outstanding performance sits with the young Dafne Keen as Laura. A young mutant who has been given powers very similar to Wolverine. He flipping between violence and frustration, and the way she brings such an adult performance, reflects brilliantly how you’d expect someone who’d been through what she’s been through to actually be.

At times the film is a bit predictable, and the X rating has enabled them to really let loose with Wolverine’s violence. The ending has genuine emotion, or did for me. Not a great film, but better than I expected!

As for what my girlfriend thought….she enjoyed it as well. But think it may be her choice next time! But that’s only fair.

[pridge]

New Year Resolutions

So trying to keep this brief but also record for my benefit. 1) Cook twice a month for my best friends to help improve my cooking skills! 2) Get back into my personal training 3) Refocus on my MBA 4) Have my dog Molly at least 4 times this year 5) Walk to work at least twice a week 6) Go to theatre at least once a quarter 7) Buy a hat 8) Find a good Blues or Jazz bar to frequent 9) Work out how to stop wishing and regretting for things I can't have or feel I've missed and appreciate all that I do have Last one easily the hardest and least specific. Here we go 2017!!

[pridge]

Panto fun...

Today sees the continuing of a tradition of watching my home town of Aylesbury's pantomime...review will follow. But can't believe I'm seeing this before Rogue 1!! Rogue 1 though won't have the sing along to 12 days of Xmas and a ton of over acting by barely known "celebrities". I need a smile and laugh after 2016. Not much I wished or wanted to achieve happened!! Onwards and upwards.

[pridge]

Bulk reviews - part deux

Me, Early And A Dying Girl

Now I have to be honest I hadn’t even heard of this film….and really didn’t know what to expect. Clearly at the more art-house end of the film market. Not really sure what genre you’d even describe it as….although IMDB categorises it as a Comedy/Drama – both of which I suppose are true. But it is a bit more than that. I am not sure this film is everyone’s cup of tea though. It may have appealed to me more through its clever take on what its like to feel like something of an outsider looking in on life – in particular during the teenage years. And with clever (I assume) capture of American High School society, and the lengths our lead protagonist – Greg (played by Thomas Mann) goes to in order to not have to fit in anywhere but also avoid any trouble.

This film is really hard to explain without any spoilers – from the very beginning. Essentially the centre of the film is Me (Greg), his best friend (although Greg doesn’t ever call him that) Earl, and Rachel (the dying girl from the title). With Greg being forced by his mother to spend time with Rachel whilst she is suffering from cancer.

The secondary element of the film are the short movies Greg and Earl make based on famous movies, which is what has bonded them together. There are some hilarious moments throughout this film, and some that are so darkly funny you are not sure you should laugh.

Throughout this film the cast really act their socks off, and you find yourself pulled into their small town American world, and their struggles with growing up, but also with what the world throws at them. This film is sweet, clever and funny – but also lives up to the drama genre given it by IMDB.

I really can’t say too much more without any spoilers…..so I may write a spoiler version if I get time.

What made me know I was going to like this film and its great scripts was one of the opening lines of:

“A hot girl is like a moose, even if they're nice. They'll still stomp on you like a moose”

So true, so very true.

 The Legend of Tarzan

Who decided to make this movie. Samuel L Jackson, what are you doing taking cash to appear in this!! Wow, this film is terrible. Truly terrible.

I think it is trying to say something about the horrors of slavery, the damage done by “white man” and Europeans to a vibrant African society, and I think it is trying to be a good movie. But it has failed.

From the cardboard cut out acting by the cast. Who seem at a loss as to what to do when faced with green screen jungles and oversized man killing poorly CGI gorillas. Or maybe they are wondering why the writers and director are making them say such ludicrous things.

Maybe the problem is by trying to give it a serious plot, the rest of it just doesn’t work. Alexander SKarsgard and Christolph Waltz, who I normally like as much as Samuel L Jackson – seem totally confused by what is happening. I am not sure even Skarsgard with little clothing, or Margot Robbie constantly soaked to the skin, save this movie for anyone. Certainly not for me.

It fires blanks throughout. Any attempts at humour are totally fluffed. The mixing history with fantasy just makes the film a cumbersome joke.

If I hadn’t been stuck on a plane, having watched I think all the good films…..I would have turned off. Maybe I should have watched Finding Dory.

[pridge]

Part 1 - bulk film reviews from international flight!!

So I watched a lot of films on flight to Mexico and back…plus not an ideal watching environment. As such I am going to club them all together in 2 big review fests!! Most of these are based on notes I took at the time, especially as was enjoying a few free wines on the way out!! The films reviewed will be:

PART 1

Money Monster

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot

Interstellar

The Martian

PART 2

Me, Early and A Dying Girl

The Legend of Tarzan

At the start of each I’ll include if spoiler free or not J

 Money Monster – spoiler free

Ok, so George Clooney and Julia Roberts, again….and have to admit I didn’t think I was going to like this film. No surprises if you’ve seen the trailer at the films premise. An upset ordinary guy, who has lost all his money, due to the recommendations of The Money Monster (played by Clooney) on an over the top investment TV show, takes Clooney and essentially his TV show crew hostage with a bomb and a gun.

So far so obvious. Clooney is brilliant at playing the charming sleezeball that even his friends can’t decide if they like. He is arrogant, self-absorbed and all about the money and the celebrity. I should have realised though, that this wasn’t going to be the tone for the film – with both Clooney and Roberts being from the more liberal end of the scale.

This film turned out to be a lot cleverer than I expected, although maybe because it appealed to my own more liberal and socialist leanings. It was a bit cheesy, with some characters being rather paint by numbers – but veterans such as Clooney and Roberts pulled off their characters with their usual chutzpah.

Jack O’Connell as the underdog, essentially a terrorist I suppose, is fantastic throughout. And you really buy in to him, even if he is also hamming it up somewhat. He does it believably.

There are plenty of twists in this film, although many of them you will see coming, they still work – as they are built into the subtle tension that builds in this film. So that even if you see them coming, you want them sooner!! And they are delivered well.

It is funny at times, but most importantly it is a slightly over the top, hit you in the face, social commentary for modern capitalism and corporate society. Done in a very different way to other recent films on this subject, and maybe not in the same class. But enjoyable none the less!

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot – spoiler free

Interesting premises to film. 2nd line news reporting staff sent to Afghanistan because already short with Iraq – and they have no families. Sets scene well, then leaps back 3 years and leaves you wanting to know how they got to where you first left them. This jumping around in time is well handled throughout the film, and makes you want to know what is going to get you to the end point, rather than disconcerting you.

This film has a delightful mix of black humour and seriousness without undermining seriousness of situation. It is slightly odd to the viewer with Margot Robbie and Martin Freeman turning up. Robbie is fascinating as a hardened, drunken, news reporter living in this weird bubble who helps induct the excellent Tina Fey into the surreal lifestyle. Not sure of freeman's Scottish accent or ability to play an arse hole that put me off him to start with, but by end of the film, as usual, Freeman has you somehow liking his character.

There is dark undercurrent to story, with unlikely friendships forming under pressure of war, and it is grittily real and funny throughout as the characters become addicted to the kabubble....a mix of Kabul and bubble. Until they almost can't facing ever leaving! Which from the outside seems unreal, but all the actors make you believe it.

As mentioned Freeman turns out to excellent as you watch him slowly reveal his softer side and relationships develop but the as you think you know where it's going things change again

It can't seem to decide what type of film it wants to be....serious about lack of journalism on important things, love story, deep meaningful about duty, or the fickleness of the public – and because of this it isn’t quite a great film. But is a very good one with some serious questions to ask about the reporting of war and the short attention span of the public.

Interstellar – spoiler free

I wasn’t sure what I expected of this modern day, self-promoted space epic. That made so much of the real science behind the movie. This is a hard one to try and write about without revealing any spoilers….plus was the last film on outbound flight I watched so my notes are minimal due to wine intake….

So where does it start. Well mankind has somehow ended up living in a world where everything has gone wrong, and is a clear replication of the 1930’s American Dust Bowl. No explanation is given for this, although it is a relatively recent thing. There is also no explanation for how this much cut-down population of the earth is so peaceful….cutting the human population through starvation and international collapse I cannot see recovering in this quick a time to some form of order. Maybe I am too much of a fan of dystopian futures, and despite my belief in the goodness of people, I am also an historian so this just seemed unreal.

But anyway, ignoring the faults I found with the premise. Humankind appears to have settled for just surviving and slowly rebuilding, as demonstrated by an early scene when the ever excellent Matthew McConaughey is brought to task at this daughters school for teaching that the moon landings were real. This is seen as dangerous now when people need to focus on farming and surviving – quashing that McConaughey’s character sees as the essential human condition to explore and look over the horizon. This tension sits throughout this film, and adds most of the emotions you feel for all the characters involved and the decisions they need to make.

In order to avoid any spoilers I will not cut to the space section!! As there clearly is one in a film called Interstellar and its in all the trailers! This is beautifully shot and the score that supports it is amazing. Even on a small screen on a plane!! Needless to say the missions don’t go to plan for a variety of reasons, even when Matt Damon turns up in this all star cast. The use of science is subtle and not shoved in your face, even if it is incomprehensible. The use of time-space distortion caused by gravity is the other major element of this film, and makes it exceptionally compelling as characters wrestle with tough decisions where minutes can turn into years….I am not explaining that here!!

This was a long film, but tremendously enjoyable. I am not sure if I liked the ending or not….I did in one way, but equally it all felt a bit contrived and weird in another. It seems though that worldwide audiences and critics loved this film, and I pretty much did. Except for a few challenges with the premise and the ending – the stellar (see what I did there) cast though act the hell out of this film though and when combined with an overall clever and fascinating script – it really is a great film.

The Martian – spoiler free

Matt Damon again. In space. Again. Right off the bat though I am going to say – I really really loved this film. Basic premise, as most people know, is that Matt Damon is stranded on Mars. I wondered how this won awards for comedy, and I am not going to spoil the film, but this film is genuinely laugh out loud funny. Damon’s character and how he deals with the situation is dry and witty, without being needlessly so. Just really really real! It is a great interplay between the seriousness of those back on earth, especially at NASA, and the way Damon copes with being stranded on his own with a lightness of tone that never undermines the seriousness of the situation.

From the beginning Damon has his hugely likeable game face on, in a way his rival for greatest actor of a generation Di Caprio, I just don’t think could. Here is represents your everyman battling for all of us, even if he is a genius botanist, astronaut version!

Sometimes things just seem too easy, in order to hold the plot together. And sometimes things are too crazy to be real. But the acting combined with the screenplay just about holds this together as you find yourself routing for Damon. There are twists within this film, but they don’t feel like twists, just clever use of story and actors abilities to be so real.

The tension is subtly ratcheted up and down to give you a roller coaster feel, and the use of music is interweaved into the story to be subtle of constantly there. This film is heroic but not over the top. With it asking serious questions of us all as to how we’d deal with crisis beyond the local shop running out of milk!!

It is also great to see Sean Bean in a secondary role where he isn’t killed off (no spoiler – he is safely on earth). There are high emotions in this film, and towards the end perhaps it gets a bit too over the top for some – but I loved it, I bought it, and I can now see how  this film got such high and deserved praise. I should never have doubted the planet Mars and Matt Damon!!

Oh, there is also the ever present in the best modern film, digs at the fickleness of the general public, their mood, how this impacts on politicians and the knock-on impact to such amazing endeavours as the people at NASA are trying to achieve. It isn’t a major plot point, but it is there – and it is interesting link to the Interstellar plot of what is best for humanity? Stability and safety, or push ourselves and take expensive and costly risks in the unknown.

[pridge]

Fabulous Beasts...etc...initial reaction!!

Terrible film. Boring. Tons of plot holes. Stupid storyline. But could have also been slightly hungover and having major doubts about whether I should say something to someone who I'm worried has been lying to me. Just don't like upsetting anyone...even if they're upsetting me :-/ Full review to come when less tired

[pridge]

Dr Strange - spoiler free

 A film I have been excited about for a long time – and having failed to see it when it first came out due to being struck down by a horrible sickness bug. So to get to see it in the IMAX finally was a treat for myself.

The character of Dr Strange is one of the lesser known Marvel characters to the wider public, but he is a key player in the marvel universe to those of us at the more geeky end of the market!! So how this film turned out and the introduction of magic to the MCU has been both eagerly awaited and worried about.

With Benedict Cumberbatch cast in the lead role as the arrogant and brilliant brain surgeon Dr Strange, you couldn’t hope for a better actor in many ways. But was he the right choice? Well the film starts rather slowly for me as it sets the scene of Strange’s overweening arrogance and self-assurance – as displayed by his total obsession with himself and the obvious size of his ego. Also his wealth and treatment of others plays to this. For a number of reasons he finds himself seeking out “The Ancient One” in the oppressive and strangely alien city of Kathmandu. There is a bit of pop psychology throughout this film with a lot of new age talk and I would guess what the writers believe eastern philosophy to be. This was a little grating to me, but I suppose necessary for the storyline as Strange has to overcome how he previously saw the world and all he believed.

One thing that I didn’t like was why would they persist with changing how Stephen Strange thinks….this is never really explained. As whilst a brilliant learner, he is also a total pain as a student.

What keeps this film going is the action scenes – which are so well put together that they really drag you in. They add to the story naturally and without being jarring – as can often happen with CGI. Which clearly had to be used a lot. Benedict also does a great job maintaining and developing the character of Dr Strange, as he slowly embraces his new powers, without totally losing his ego! Which would have been too hard to take.

Whilst the villain still wasn’t great – a common marvel problem – he posed enough of a challenge and threat to keep the “good guys” on their toes as they battled through a variety of settings and styles.

This is a movie to let your brain go for and not think too much about. There are no major problems, it isn’t a classic, but it is fun to watch.

[pridge]

Berlin - final thoughts

So I got some feedback on my Berlin reviews, from someone who’s opinion really matters more than most to me. Based on this I thought I’d give an overall view of Berlin to try and do it more justice than the reviews written on my phone at the time!

As ever my views are influenced by how I was feeling at the time, and in fact how I am feeling at the moment. Right now am feeling rather melancholy as have a ton of stuff on my mind I am trying to understand and work out – a lot of which isn’t in my control. But anyway.

Berlin was a beautiful city in a strange way. It was a lot more “low-rise” than a lot of other major cities like London, Singapore, Toronto – all of which have a very different vibe. Obviously it has also been clearly impacted by the destruction in World War 2 and the East-West split – and the architecture is a fascinating mix of modern and cutting edge, abutting against older more traditional buildings. Which along with the relatively wide streets from Berlin being a relatively new city, gives it a lovely open feel. The river running through it is not to wide to create divisions, but instead creates a nice flow to the city.

The people of Berlin of friendly, and it feels very comfortable being there. Which could be due to the number of familiar shops and brands – which in itself could be seen as a bit sad, but what do you expect in a modern European city.

We didn’t go there to party, and we succeeded in that – although we did manage a few of the high quality and range of German beers.

The trip was very thought provoking in the areas and sites we visited. The intensity of the history, and the honesty and factual way the museums approach some tragic history was very effective. There were no punches pulled, but it also didn’t become over-dramatic.

A lot of time was spent wondering what would make normal people end up behaving and acting like they did under the Nazi regime – and the psychology of it when you think through it was terrifying. People were not feeling “threatened” into dreadful acts – it was more to do with the dehumanizing of fellow human beings, group think, making the evil acts seem more normal (if that is possible, but clearly is), local peer pressure and the horrible fact that once you’d done something unspeakable there was no turning back. As someone that has always tried to do there best by others, although not always successfully, it is hard to imagine – but I am sure there were plenty of others who got dragged into the dreadful acts who started from the same point as me. And that is what is truly upsetting and disturbing.

There is something that seems a bit sad still under the surface with Berlin – although that may have been my own self-reflective feelings at the time. Or the weight of recent history. It was a city I want to go back and enjoy a lot more and experience the vibrancy so many talk of.

[pridge]

Berlin Day 2

That was a tiring day!! Not just all the walking, the getting soaked trying to get round a big protest because the police closed down all the streets (we failed), or being full of combination of German food (lunch) and Vietnamese food (dinner). But because of the thought provoking and emotional sites we visited.

We were at the memorial to the victims of the holocaust to begin with. This eerie landscape of stone pillars that undulate across the landscape is artistic brilliance. The small museum/memorial underneath through which we took audio guides was devastating. The holocaust is often thought of as an industrial slaughter, but the fact that 2m people were killed by guns is rarely mentioned. This very individual way of killing was brought home by the images and commentary we saw and heard. This wasn’t death and atrocity by a machine, but by people. A lot of people. Some of the stories put together at the museum brought me to tears. One small example was a woman trying to save her children and mother hard labour by insisting they join the other queue at Auschwitz. Instead she condemns them to death. Something she then has to live with having survived her own horrors. This was a human event, perpetratrated by humans on other humans. Terrifying and sad.

The Topographie of Terror that very factually charts the rise of the Nazi state and how it operates then attempts to answer how this happened. And this is where it got very real again. The dehumanising of people and groups, the appeal to “good” people vs those who are a disease and burden, the vilification of those who don’t fit in our great nation that needs to rise again are all scarily remiscent of popular demagogy in the UK and US recently. And that makes my stomach churn. Have we learnt nothing from history?

It’s all too easy to see evil being done by a few at the top and for people who are having a tough time to listen to the appeal of populist propaganda- as that’s what it is. In this age where any message can be got out there on a mass appeal and good journalism is undermined by the sheer volume of communication happening, we are perhaps just as susceptible to finding ourselves collectively drifting somewhere no one of a liberal or centre leaning thought possible! Again this brought back that this was about people, not forces like industrialism, playing the central role.

It also obviously makes you think about your life when you read and hear about the very personal tragedies of friends and families torn apart and often never knowing what happened. Been doing a lot of self reflection as to what I want out of life after some recent personal set backs on a much smaller scale. And makes me want to achieve more for those around me and wider world. We also visited Checkpoint Charlie, a typically touristy spot, enjoyed some good German food for lunch, and then some great German beers at a craft bar in the evening - coupled with good Vietnamese food. An emotionally draining day. Thought provoking considering how and why normal people could be part of such atrocities and terror, and how to make sure they don't keep happening. As they do! Rwanda and Congo being two recent examples on a larger scale, but people on people violence and evil is happening everyday around us.