rabbitexpert - Tumblr blog

rabbitexpert · 6 years ago

Text

The Best Rabbit Water Bottles

We’ve investigated dozens of different water bottles, searching for the best rabbit water bottle. A quality water bottle is one thing you definitely need for your rabbit. A rabbit water bottle multi-purpose; the most obvious use is the keep your rabbit hydrated, but it can also be used to give medication, and feed baby bunnies. Below we’ve listed the best water bottles you can buy for your rabbit.

Choco Nose H528

The best thing about the Choco Nose H528 rabbit water bottle is it’s leak-proof. The fact that this bottle does not leak is an obvious benefit; the cage will stay cleaner, and your rabbit’s food won’t be ruined. Also, you will need to fill it less frequently.

It’s very easy to take this bottle on and off the cage to clean and refill it, and then screw on bracket makes installation easy. You can also nail it to a wall, if you’re using it in a hutch with no metal bars.

In our opinion, this is the best rabbit water bottle out of all of the bottles we tested. It’s easy to install and remove, and this water bottle is absolutely leak-proof, making life easier for both you and your bunnies.

Poodle Pet Water Bottle

This is easily attached to your rabbits’ cage with a turning fixer wheel. Simply turning the water bottle and unscrewing the cap allows you to fill it and screw it closed quickly and easily.

This makes it good for controlling spillage; no water will come out unless your rabbit taps the bottle’s dispenser. This means your rabbit’s cage will stay drier and the wasted water waste will minimal.

Using this bottle can ensure that your bunny doesn’t run out of water, allowing you peace of mind when you’re away from home.

Kordon SOA80850

This ranked number 3, but it is still a good choice for your rabbit. It’s similar to the Poodle Pet water bottle, and it’s weatherproof; this makes it a good option for an outdoor hutch.

This bottle has a large capacity of 32 ounces. However, some have reported this bottle leaked; it’s important to screw the lid on very tightly to prevent leaking.

While the frosted surface can make seeing the water level difficult, it’s a good characteristic for an outdoor water bottle, because the frosted finish can help prevent algae.

Lixit SLX0670

This water bottle is a great option for multiple rabbits; it has a massive 64-ounce capacity. Another benefit of the Lixit SLX0670 is it is weather resistant.

This bottle attaches to the cage with two wire holders, however, removing the bottle to refill it can be awkward, due to its size.

Buyers Guide for Rabbit Water Bottles

Buying the best water bottle for your rabbit is very important. Let’s explore and explain different comparison points between different water bottles as well as water bowls. We’ll also take a look at how to attach the water bottle to the pen, cage or hutch, and how to stop it from freezing in cold weather. We hope to give you the guidance and information you need to find the best water bottle for your bunnies.

Reasons Why Rabbits Need a Water Bottle

Just like any animal, your rabbit needs to drink water, and this is especially true in the summer. To prevent dehydration and possible death, water must be available to your bunny 24/7. A water bottle enables your rabbit to quench it’s thirst conveniently, with minimal mess.

Feeding Baby Rabbits

Baby bunnies need to be fed by hand, and a water bottle could also hold the liquid food, and be used instead of a baby bottle.

Administering Medication

A water bottle may also be used to give liquid medication to your rabbit. Rabbits are bad at taking pills, so liquid medication in their water will make it easier for both of you. Rabbit Water Bottles vs Rabbit Water Bowls

Although water bowls and water bottles serve the same purpose, they diverge markedly in their efficiency. This is because water bowls are easier to tip over, causing spills and mess. Water bowls are also far more prone to contamination; rabbit urine, feces, dirt, and bacteria are some of the contaminants that could make your bunny sick.

If you consider all the factors, water bottles are superior to water bowls, due to a few reasons. For one, they can’t be contaminated with waste, and second, they can’t tip over. Also, they can maintain the water levels due to they inhibit evaporation.

Tips For Buying a Rabbit Water Bottle

Capacity Choosing the appropriate capacity will depend on the number of rabbits in your pen or hutch. Choose a larger size water bottle if you’re feeding more than one rabbit at a time.

Spout To allow your rabbits to drink with ease, get one with a long spout. The spout should be made of metal to allow for easy drinking.

Materials A good water bottle must be easy to clean as well as long lasting. To guarantee both these requirements, the bottle should be made of sturdy material like stainless steel or ceramic. However, most rabbit water bottles are made of plastic. If you choose plastic, make sure it is made of non-toxic BPA free material.

Your Rabbit’s Age and Size Consider the size and age of your rabbit; pay attention to the recommended age on the packaging, and the shape and size.

Ease of Cleaning Take a look at how the bottle needs to be cleaned before purchasing. Buy a bottle that is made of easy to clean, non-porous materials like ceramic or stainless steel.

Brand Certain brands like as Ferplast, Lixit, and Kordon Oasis are consistently reviewed as the best of all rabbit water bottles. They are likely to serve you and your bunny for years.

Attaching the Bottle to Your Bunny’s Pen or Hutch

First, rotate the bottle upside down to make sure that the water is flowing freely. Look for an open space on the hutch or cage, and insert the bottle’s spout.

Next, attach the bottle holder to the pen, cage or hutch, and secure the bottle. Finally, do any finishing touches that might be necessary, such as insulating the bottle against freezing.

Stop Your Rabbit’s Water Bottle From Freezing

Shop for a good water bottle cover, one that’s designed for your particular brand and size of the bottle. Once you have the right type of water bottle cover, wrap it around the bottle, and seal tightly, to prevent heat loss. You can further place an insulation lining between the water bottle and the cover if necessary.

The post The Best Rabbit Water Bottles appeared first on Rabbit Expert.

0 notes

rabbitexpert · 6 years ago

Text

Rabbit Water Dishes

Ensuring your rabbit has access to water at all times is extremely important. Lack of water can lead to dehydration, a serious condition that is easily avoided by simply giving the rabbit water. Of course, not all water dishes are the same. In fact, there are five specific things you should consider when deciding on the best water dish for your rabbit.

Dish versus bottle

The one main advantage of a bottle over a dish is that it is affixed to the cage, making spills a non-issue. However, drinking from a bottle is not the most natural activity for a rabbit. Because wild rabbits typically drink from ground-level sources, a dish may be a more optimal choice.

In terms of preventing spills, there are a variety of dishes that fit securely to any wire cage, effectively eliminating any chance of a spill. If you opt for a dish that does not attach to the cage, you can simply place it in a corner, which will help to stop sliding and tipping.

Materials

It is very important to consider the materials comprising a rabbit’s water dish. For instance, plastic bowls can be easily chewed, leaving you a leaking, mangled mess. Also, plastic is light and easy to knock over. However, if you prefer plastic, you should look for one that includes a steel-edge design that prevents chewing. You should also consider one that can be secured to the cage rather than placed on the floor.

Rabbit water dishes are also made from stainless steel or ceramic. These materials prevent chewing and are typically heavy enough to prevent any rabbit from knocking it over.

Dimensions

It is quite common for water dishes to store enough water to last for two days. However, it is still important to consider the specific dimensions of the dish. Because there are many sizes and designs to choose from, you should make sure that the dish both fits in the cage and provides enough water on a daily basis.

Placement

If you opt for a dish that does not affix to the cage, be sure to place it at ground level. A dish placed any place other than this presents a potentially unsafe situation in which the bowl can accidentally fall and break.

Cleaning

It is important to check your rabbit’s water dish to ensure it is full. Additionally, you should look for a dish that is easy to clean. Some water dishes come in two parts, allowing you to remove the dish itself, wash it, and replace it without having to unlatch the whole system.

1. Stainless Steel Food Water Bowl

This rabbit water dish from Hypeety is made from stainless steel, which means it is one of the more durable watering holes available.

In terms of set up, it comes with a ring you can attach to your bunny’s cage. Next, all you have to do is simply slip the dish into the ring. When it is time to clean, all you need to do is remove the dish, wash it, and replace it.

Another great feature of this water dish is the simple fact that it is attached to the cage. Never again will your rabbit be able to knock over its water, leaving it thirsty and wet.

There are three sizes to choose from.

– 10 centimeters (cm) wide by 5 cm deep – 12 centimeters (cm) wide by 5.5 cm deep – 14 centimeters (cm) wide by 5 cm deep

Finally, this water dish can also double as a food dish.

2. ZOOPOLR Cage Feeder

The water dish from Zoopolr is a perfect addition to any rabbit cage. The plastic-plus, steel-edge design ensures your rabbit will not chew this dish. Additionally, it is non-toxic, which keeps your bunny safe.

In terms of size, it is 4.3 inches long, 3.1 inches wide, and 2.6 inches high. The small size makes it perfect for rabbits and a variety of other small pets. Furthermore, because of its small size, you can place the dish in a variety of spaces in your cage.

The clever design of the snap-lock bracket system allows you to easily attach it to any wire cage. Because it can be affixed to the cage, you do not have to worry about spilled dishes ever again.

Another great feature of this water dish is that it comes in four fun colors: green, pink, blue, and yellow.

3. Lixit Animal Care Rabbit Feeder/Water Fountain

For bunnies that have free run of the house, the “gravity feed” water dish from Lixit is a great choice. Because it does not affix to a cage you can place it anywhere in your house. In fact, you can use it in your outdoor rabbit pen, too.

The reversible base allows you to use this as both a water dish and a food bowl. The reversible bowl is labeled either water or food, ensuring you do not fill this dish incorrectly. For more timid bunnies, the water dispenser is quiet and will not scare your rabbit away from a much-needed drink.

In terms of capacity, this water dish holds 48 ounces of water and up to 5 cups of feed. For safety, this dish is bisphenol A (BPA) free.

4. ANONE Plastic Hanging Water Dish

Available in five cheery colors, the water dish from Anone is an excellent choice for any rabbit’s thirst-quenching needs.

In terms of quality, it is made from high-quality plastic, does not contain BPA, and is food safe.

In terms of use, you can simply hang it on your bunny’s cage and fill it with water, or even add food if you so desire. It is also extremely easy to clean and perfect for any other small pets you may have.

A great feature of this water dish is that it comes in two sizes.

– small 10 cm wide and 3 cm in high – large 12 cm wide and 4 cm high

If you like variety, it comes in five different colors.

– green – blue – pink – black – light green

5. Joyoldelf Bowl

When it comes to one of the better rabbit water dishes, the one from Joyoldelf delivers on a variety of levels. For instance, its smart design is comprised of an eco-friendly, plastic, outer bowl and a food-safe, stainless-steel, inner bowl.

The inner bowl is removable, which makes it extremely easy to clean, fill, and maintain. In terms of stability, the cross-lock design ensures you can easily secure it to any wire cage or hatch, and your bunny will not be able to tip it over.

In terms of style, the outer plastic bowl sports a cheery blue while the inner stainless-steel bowl is comprised of a smooth surface that is a result of a mirror-polish finish. In fact, this sleek look is sure to last for years to come.

6. MoMaek Small Animal Rabbit Water Dish

This simple water dish from MoMaek delivers a 5 cm capacity for water or feed. Made from translucent plastic, it allows you to easily monitor the water needs of your furry friend.

Although this dish is made of plastic, the steel-edged design prevents chewing. In terms of the simple design, it attaches quickly to any wire cage via the easy-to-use snap-lock bracket system. It sits snugly on the bottom of the cage, providing extra assurance that it will not tip over. In addition to securely attaching, it also allows for quick and easy removal and cleaning.

Finally, for such a simple, no-fuss design, it actually comes in three attractive colors: light purple, light blue and light pink.

7. Mkono Water Bowl

Available in blue or pink, this water bowl from Mkono is the perfect choice for anyone looking for a dish that absolutely will not spill. The no-spill, snap-lock system securely attaches to your rabbit’s cage or hutch to prevent sliding or spilling.

Made of high-quality, non-toxic plastic, you can be sure that this water dish is durable. In addition, it incorporates a steel-edge that does not allow your pet to chew on and ultimately damage the dish.

At just 5 inches long, 4 inches wide, and 3 inches high, this dish will fit perfectly into most cages while providing ample water (up to 8 ounces) or feed for your rabbit.

Finally, the dish slides out of the snap-lock system for convenient cleaning and filling.

The post Rabbit Water Dishes appeared first on Rabbit Expert.

1 note · View note

rabbitexpert · 6 years ago

Text

Rabbit Run Flooring

Safe Flooring Options for Rabbit RunsMost first time rabbit owners often focus on the size, material, and quality of the hutch they purchase for their rabbit. While all of these are valid considerations, most rabbit hutches have an open bottom, which makes having rabbit run flooring ready to be installed when the hutch is assembled very important.

Hutch Hunting

If you have not selected a hutch yet, the first decision to make is where the hutch will be located. Indoor hutchesand Outdoor hutches are built differently. While you could use an outdoor rabbit hutch indoors, an indoor rabbit hutch would not protect your rabbit from the elements if they will be living outdoors.

Some rabbit owners purchase a rabbit exercise pen for their bunnies to stretch their legs in a safe area. Other rabbit owners allow their rabbits to hop around their house or in their back yard for exercise. If you choose to let your rabbit exercise freely in your home, it is recommended that you rabbit proof a certain room for them to exercise in to make sure they do not hurt themselves or find opportunities to be mischievous. If your rabbit hops around your garden or yard, never leave them outside alone; five minutes is enough time for a predator to attack them.

Selecting Flooring

Once you have selected your rabbit’s dream hutch and or an exercise pen, the next step is selecting a flooring that is safe and comfortable for them to hop on and relax on.

First, we will discuss what types of flooring to avoid:

Never use newspaper with ink, as your rabbit will chew it and the ink has the potential to be toxic. Also, if you are litter box training your rabbit and have chosen newspaper as the littler box lining, using newspaper to line the floor of your rabbit’s hutch may be confusing and prevent litter training from progressing.

Carpet is not a rabbit safe choice. Rabbits will chew it, and if ingested, it has the potential to create an intestinal blockage or other health problems. Additionally, it holds onto odors, absorbs urine and it difficult to clean. Many people use chunks of used carpet as rabbit run flooring, which poses another safety hazard because there may be cleaning chemicals in it that are not rabbit safe. Lastly, urine soaked carpet may result in urine leaking through the carpet onto the floor underneath the hutch.

Cardboard is not recommended, as rabbits will chew it, it holds onto odors and urine will quickly soak through it.

Your rabbit would prefer if you did not select plastic flooring, as it can be slippery to hop on, and if they chew on it they may become sick.

Flooring for Outdoor Hutches and Exercise Pens

Many rabbit owners opt to place a hutch with an open bottom on grass. While rabbits enjoy living and grazing on this natural floor, owners must be mindful of keeping the grass floor clean, or rotating the hutch’s location to keep the grass fresh and give it a chance to grow back from being trimmed down.

However, there is a signicant drawback to using grass as the floor for a rabbit hutch; it places your rabbit at risk for a predator attack. While some owners have kept rabbits on grass floors successfully, it must be considered that foxes have been known to burrow under a rabbit hutch to gain access to a rabbit.

If you think your rabbit would enjoy time in the grass, a good alternative choice is to purchase a rabbit exercise pen to set up in the grass for daily or weekly play time in the grass. Never leave your rabbit outside in an exercise pen alone; the open top without a human nearby makes them vulnerable to a predator attack.

Some owners who keep rabbits outdoors choose to place their rabbit’s hutch on concrete. While this surface is easy to clean, the style of the hutch must be considered. If the hutch provides lots of shade on the concrete, it would provide a nice cool spot for a rabbit to cool off in the summer. If the hutch does not shade the concrete it allows the rabbit access to, the sun will make the concrete too hot for a bunny’s sweet feet. In the winter time, concrete may also become icy, creating a slipping hazard for rabbits. Covering the concrete with hay can help rabbits regulate their temperature and give them a delicious snack.

Placing a piece of plywood under the hutch and covering it with hay is a good choice for outdoor rabbit hutches; the plywood increases the rabbit hutch’s security, and the hay provides a grazing snack while creating a softer surface to lay on.

Flooring for Indoor Hutches and Exercise Pens

Selecting flooring for indoor hutches requires more careful selection, as rabbit owners must consider protecting the floor of their house from a rabbit chewing it, and from urine and droppings.

If you have vinyl flooring in your home, your rabbit hutch may sit directly on it. If edges are not exposed rabbits generally do not chew on it, and it makes daily clean up easy. Simply cover it with hay to provide a grazing option and to help your rabbit regulate their temperature.

Alternatively, you could purchase a piece of vinyl flooring that fits underneath your hutch. Should you choose to purchase a piece of vinyl flooring specifically for the hutch, be sure to have the edges exposed outside of the hutch, not inside, to avoid your rabbit chewing on the edges.

Indoor hutches or pens can also use a piece of plywood covered with hay as flooring. Should you choose this, regular cleaning will be important to prevent the plywood from holding onto odors.

Closing Considerations

Whatever type of flooring you select, it is important that the edges are not exposed inside the hutch for several reasons:

Urine and droppings could get beneath it, defeating the purpose of having the flooring.

Exposed edges will always be found by a rabbit’s teeth; depending on the type of flooring, it may be toxic for your rabbit to chew it.

If the exposed edge is wide enough, your rabbit’s leg could become pinched or stuck in it.

If the exposed edge is sharp, it could cut your rabbit. Rabbits have very thin skin which makes them susceptible to injuries.

No matter what type of flooring you choose, cleaning it regularly will prolong its useful life. When you clean the hutch, be sure to inspect the flooring, and replace it if necessary to keep your rabbit healthy, happy and comfortable.

Our favorite rabbit tested and approved flooring choices are vinyl flooring or plywood, lined with hay. We hope this article helped you select rabbit run flooring that is comfortable, safe, and that your rabbit loves.

The post Rabbit Run Flooring appeared first on Rabbit Expert.

0 notes

rabbitexpert · 6 years ago

Text

Best Rabbit Feeders

Do you need an automatic rabbit feeder? You’ll learn some more about the best ones currently available here.

We’ve found DecoStain to be the best option after exploring the features and benefits these automated feeders offer. Some of its best features include timing functionality and portion control among the programming capabilities.

The Automatic Rabbit Feeders We Most Recommend:

DecoStain Programmable Automative Pet Feeder

Kaytee Gravity Bin Feeder

PETFLY Remote Control Automatic Feeder

Pet Lodge Rabbit Feeder with Metal Bottom and Lid

DecoStain Programmable Automative Pet Feeder

If you need to use an automatic rabbit feeder, this high-tech option is worth considering. The choices you can easily set include portion sizes, preferred feeding times, and the number of meals to serve. One of this feeder’s advantages is your ability to serve 1-12 individual portions 1-3 times daily for more convenient dispensing.

Voice recording technology is one of this product’s significant features. A recorded voice message can play at meal times.

This feeder holds up to a generous five liters of dry rabbit food. If you ever have a power outage, the feeder can run off the batteries. A power indicator will alert you to the need for a battery change. By having an extra power option, your bunnies will always have access to food.

There is a 60-day exchange policy in effect, as well as a 30-day money-back guarantee, giving you greater peace of mind.

Kaytee Gravity Bin Feeder

This gravity feeder measures a generous 6.5″ x 5..75″ x 8.25″. If you have multiple rabbits, they will all be able to feed very comfortably.

The unit easily connects to the cage wire, making a secure fit. All hardware required for a secure attachment to the cage is included.

Another advantage of the feeder is its dust-resistant design. The way the unit is designed helps you keep everything cleaner for the overall health of your pets.

PETFLY Remote Control Automatic Feeder

This automatic feeder offers easy programming, coupled with the durability that you expect from such a product. The LCT control panel is large and easy to read, which goes along nicely with the overall quality construction.

The options for approximate 25g portions are flexible, with about 12 choices you can use. Programming options provide support for as many as five daily meals.

If being able to quickly know when to refill the feeder matters, you are in luck with this option. The hopper accommodates 10.6 liters of food and is transparent so you can see how much is still there.

A dual power supply that includes a battery, as well as a voice recorder, are part of this feeder’s excellent features. Being able to control your rabbit’s feeding remotely is a feature that you will find most helpful.

Pet Lodge Rabbit Feeder with Metal Bottom and Lid

This feeder features the sturdy construction that you expect. Its overall durability helps make it a capable feeder that suits your furry friend’s needs well.

The hooks are independent and provide a secure attachment to your pet’s enclosure. One of the top advantages this feeder offers is preventing spilling.

You can feed your rabbit from outside, thanks to this feeder’s design. By filling the feeder from outside the enclosure, you can avoid the risk of letting your bunny out.

A Buyer’s Guide for Automatic Feeders

One of the most important aspects of proper rabbit care is making sure they are always adequately fed. How do you ensure they always have access to their food when you’re not home? Even if you didn’t have to think about this when you first got your rabbit, being prepared for different circumstances is part of responsible pet ownership. What type of feeder you choose is an essential decision for you as well as your pet.

Different scenarios may apply depending on how many rabbits you have. Each circumstance is different, and your decision will need to take these differences into account.

Different Rabbit Ownership Circumstances

First, we’ll look at the needs of an owner with just one rabbit. Busy adults who want a low-maintenance pet are one example of someone who might own a single rabbit. Another example includes parents concerned about their children’s’ ability to remember a feeding schedule.

Any pet needs to have easy access to healthy food, and bunnies are no exception. Hay is a type of food that should always be available for regular grazing, just as they would be able to eat hay in the wild. A feeder makes it easier for you to dispense additional foods that are ideal nutrition sources. In cases where your rabbit freely roams that house, the feeder comes in handy for providing a regular supply of food any time.

These principles also apply to multi-rabbit households. Owners whose rabbits have recently had litters especially benefit from such feeding arrangements. More food sources are always better in households with multiple pets. There will be fewer problems involving your furry friends feeling crowded out by their companions.

The Features Most Needed in Rabbit Feeders

Good quality is something that should always matter in feeding devices for your pets. We’ll take a look at some of the features that are the most helpful in a feeder.

Ease of Use

Being comfortable with using the automatic feeder is essential. Regardless of whether your chosen model is simple or more high-tech, your comfort with its operation will matter. Proper use will make it easier to ensure your rabbit uses the feeder. Reading any documentation that comes with the device is an important step. Doing a trial run of the product when you’ll be at home is a way to make sure everything works smoothly.

Quality

Quality is another crucial factor for pet owners. A device that features quality construction is less likely to carry safety risks. Checking out reviews can prove most helpful in locating products of good quality. A customer who has used the product will be able to provide an honest look at its benefits and disadvantages. You’ll be able to make a better decision using reviews, even when the chosen brand is well-known.

Think of Your Budget

Setting a budget that you keep is important to the buying process. Automated feeders often become very expensive. However, it is worth remembering that food dispensed through one of these devices is more supplemental, unlike hay. Think carefully about whether extra features are worth the money.

Use Careful Consideration

Considering what you want the most out of a feeder matters. These devices have been designed with pellets in mind, which is always helpful to remember.

Some Parting Thoughts

No automatic pet feeder, no matter how good, can take the place of manual feedings. The food that goes into these devices serves as a supplemental feeding source. Providing constant access to some hay or grass is necessary to keep your pet nourished.

The post Best Rabbit Feeders appeared first on Rabbit Expert.

0 notes

rabbitexpert · 6 years ago

Text

Buying Guide for Rabbit Tunnels

A truly excellent tunnel for rabbits should be both durable and breathable. The best options have frames of sturdy steel and polyester that resists tears. Something that is simple to fold will save time when the time comes to store and transport the tunnel. The following are five of the best examples of rabbit tunnel on the market to keep your rabbit healthy and entertained.

Pawaboo Tunnel S-Shaped

S-Shaped design – The bends in this S-Shape design are enjoyable for your rabbit, allowing the bunny to dart with agility through the shape.

Easy Fold Away – It is easy to pop open this tunnel in mere seconds and almost as easy to bring the rigid pieces together again in folding it. This tunnel is then secured by elastic bands.

Considerate – The thought that has gone into this bunny tunnel’s design is thorough and creative. The peepholes are carefully placed and the included hanging ball toy’s bell will ensure a rabbit’s entertainment for plenty of time.

Quality – The fabric is tear-resistant and it is mounted on a frame of strong steel, meaning this bunny tunnel was built with quality and meant to last. It is designed to deal with cat claws so you know it will not rip or tear easily.

Prosper Collapsible 3-Way Play Toy

Assortment of Fun – This tunnel system consists of three spacious tunnels that feature built-in crinkle paper, a toy bell, and a peephole, all for your rabbit’s enjoyment.

Durable – This tunnel system’s polyester skin is extra strong and resists tears. It is wrapped about a steel frame for safe support, this frame with protective ends. This means that, regardless of your bunny’s energy level, the tunnels should not collapse.

Easily Portable – Because of the folding mechanism, only seconds are necessary to put this tunnel system away for travel or storage. An elastic band holds it secure when folded.

Feline Ruff Large Collapsible Play Toy

Wide Tunnel – A feature to love about this tunnel is its impressive girth of 12 inches in diameter. Regardless of how large your bunny is, it should find no difficulties in playing throughout this tunnel system.

Length – This play tunnel also boasts great overall length. Its 56 inches of play room means your rabbit will enjoy extra room to exercise.

Play Balls – This tunnel system also contains two quiet balls for play without the annoying jingle of belled balls.

Collapsible Crinkle Pet Play Tubes Tunnel

High Quality – This bunny tunnel’s steel frame and polyester skin which is resistant to tearing mean that pets will enjoy great fun for long periods.

Interconnected – This system consists of three separate tunnels connected; the juncture at the center features a peephole. The crinkle paper keeps bunnies excited and playful.

Easily Folded – This tunnel collapses easily and takes up little space when folded. It can be folded quite quickly and comes with a band of elastic to hold it folded.

Juvale Play Tunnel Tube

Fun for your Bunny – This tunnel’s bright features and long design make it highly entertaining for rabbits to dart through.

Simple – This tunnel’s design is a simple straight line, permitting it to be placed more easily at the edge of a room and left for rabbits to play with rather than repeatedly setting it up and taking it down, as must be done with more complex and larger tunnel systems.

Sturdy and Portable – The built-in steel that maintains the shape of this tear-resistant polyester tube allows it to fold down into a flat shape that is easy to collapse and pop open again.

Buyers Guide for Bunny Tunnels

Playful creatures, rabbits need plenty of physical and mental stimulation in order to be kept happy. In the wild, rabbits can be observed chasing each other and running about. When they are kept as pets, the owner has a responsibility to provide rabbits with entertainment. An excellent way means of accomplishing this is with a rabbit tunnel.

Tunnels are a prime part of the life of a rabbit in the wild. Wild rabbits live in extensive tunnel networks known as warrens, often with their extended families. Just as zoos provide enrichment items to entertain the animals that are their wards, rabbit owners can give their pets tunnels to help provide the chance to act as they would naturally.

Benefits of Rabbit Play Tunnels

Any bored pet can become destructive, and rabbits are no different. Digging and chewing are both common actions of rabbits that have too much time and not enough to do. To protect your furniture, rabbit cage, and carpet, you should provide your rabbit with outlets for its energy. This stimulation is crucial to maintain a rabbit’s overall health.

Playing in a rabbit play tunnel is an excellent means of bonding with your bunny. Spending time with your rabbit daily is important. They need daily time out of their cage for exercise. By allowing them to play with you and interact with a play tunnel, you meet two of their needs simultaneously.

Exercise is particularly important to domestic rabbits. There are experts recommending a minimum of two hours every day for rabbits to spend outside of a hutch or cage. The space inside either is quite simply not sufficient for a rabbit to properly get its legs stretched. Also, a bunny that is mostly sedentary risks muscle loss as well as issues with the cardiovascular system. While many toys can help, a rabbit tunnel is best for meeting needs.

Considerations When Purchasing a Bunny Play Tunnel

Type

Several types of rabbit play tunnels await the perusal of bunny owners. Some you can find at the pet store. If the rabbit section seems a little sparse in its selection, try the section for cats. Many rabbits even seem to hold a preference for those tunnels designed for cats. Play tunnels can be purchased from sites online or even made yourself, if you feel inspired.

Size

The size of your rabbit is a prime factor in your choice of bunny tunnels. While rabbits can fit themselves into spaces that require them to squeeze pretty tightly, you do not your pet stuck in its new tunnel.

Durability

Some tunnels endure longer than others. Their degree of required upkeep will also vary. While cardboard tunnels are inexpensive and lightweight, they are quite difficult to clean. They are also quite tempting to chew. This tunnel type needs regular replacement. A tunnel with an open bottom has a higher degree of easy cleanability than one of solid plastic.

The post Buying Guide for Rabbit Tunnels appeared first on Rabbit Expert.

0 notes

rabbitexpert · 6 years ago

Text

Racoon Proof Rabbit Hutch

Protecting your Outdoor Rabbit from Raccoons and other Predators. If you choose to keep your pet rabbit outdoors, you will need to take steps to keep him or her safe. By making a few adjustments to an outdoor weather proof rabbit hutch, you can help protect your outdoor rabbit not only from the elements, but also from predators in search of an easy meal. This article will outline some simple steps that can be taken to provide your rabbit with further protection.

What dangers do outdoor rabbits face?

Outdoor rabbits are subject to weather that they may not be able to tolerate well; always consider the outdoor temperature and bring your rabbit indoors if the weather becomes too hot or too cold for them to be outside safely.

Another danger that outdoor rabbits face is that they are alone for long periods of time, which intelligent predators will take advantage of. This places them at risk of a human stealing them from their owner’s yard, and it places them on a predator’s radar. Even if you make an effort to spend as much time with your rabbit as possible, they will still be alone for hours while you are away at work or during the night while you sleep. Danger increases at night, as this is when most wild animals hunt and most people are asleep indoors. Play time outside of their hutch must also be supervised; allowing a rabbit to freely roam your yard places them in a perilous situation. As anyone who lives with children or animals knows, constant supervision is simply not possible and it only takes a moment for trouble to occur. This makes a sturdy hutch even more of a necessity.

The final danger is a significant one; predators. Your neighboring wild life do not have the same luxury that your pet rabbit does of having each meal served to them. Since they are constantly searching for food, it is likely that your pet rabbit is on the radar of at least one predator, no matter where you live.

Most rabbit owners are aware that foxes are a threat to their rabbit, but the list of predators to be aware of is actually much more extensive:

Foxes: Foxes are smart, sneaky, and possess a talent for burrowing into rabbit hutches which are placed on grass.

Birds of Prey: Hawks are the most common bird of prey to snatch pet rabbits. Depending on where you live, owls, eagles and falcons may also be a concern.

Racoons: Yes, raccoons do eat rabbits! They are very smart and are able to use their hands to unlatch a rabbit hutch.

Badgers: Badgers are known to eat small mammals such as rabbits.

Wolves and Coyotes: Wild dogs often prey on rabbits for meals.

Dogs: Domestic dogs tend to have a prey drive for rabbits, as they are fluffy and move quickly.

Cats: Domestic cats are known to kill rabbits. Even if you manage to save your rabbit from a cat, a bite or scratch may make your rabbit very sick or kill them due to the bacteria in a cat’s mouth. The thin and fragile skin of rabbits makes bacteria entering their bodies a very real concern.

Ticks: Rabbits may be afflicted with a tick borne illness, which may make them ill or threaten their life. If their hutch is located on grass they may become covered in tiny baby ticks, which would require veterinary care to address properly.

Snakes: Large snakes eat adult rabbits, and small snakes eat baby rabbits.

Stress: If your rabbit has a close encounter with a predator and you manage to intervene, the stress of the incident may be enough to threaten your rabbit’s life.

Humans: The most intelligent of the predators we discussed above, humans may observe your family’s schedule and plan a time to steal your rabbit from your yard. Sadly, humans may plan to steal rabbits to use them as bait in dog fighting operations.

What hutch modifications are essential to keeping a rabbit outdoors?

A durable, high quality outdoor rabbit hutch is essential to keeping an outdoor rabbit safe from elements, however, most are not built to stand up to predators. This makes it critical to make adjustments to a regular weather proof outdoor rabbit hutch to give your rabbit real protection.

It is important to take steps to racoon proof your rabbit hutch, as raccoons have abilities that other predators do not, such as a useful little set of hands. Raccons are very dexterous; they are even able to open a latch on a rabbit hutch. By placing a lock on the latch to your rabbit’s hutch, you can protect your rabbit from a raccoon’s prying hands, and from a human thief.

Another way to racoon proof your rabbit hutch is to replace chicken wire with something more substantial, such as hardware cloth, which is thicker than chicken wire. For extra protection, use both chicken wire and hardware cloth, overlapped so there are no gaps big enough for a predator to use to enter the hutch or grab a rabbit. Raccoons have been known to reach their hands through chicken wire to grab prey, so it is very important to ensure this is addressed as well.

Just because foxes are not your rabbit’s only predator, it does not mean steps shouldn’t be taken to protect your rabbit against the attack of these clever red canines. If your rabbit hutch has an open bottom which sits on grass, a fox may burrow under the hutch to gain access to your rabbit. To prevent this from happening, you have two options; either relocate your hutch to a hard surface such as concrete or create a hard base, which can be done simply with wooden boards. If you choose to relocate your hutch to concrete, make sure that your rabbit has time to hop around in the grass daily, as constantly sitting on concrete would be hard on their joints. Also keep in mind that concrete can be a nice cool spot for your rabbit to sit on during hot days in the summer, but concrete will make their hutch more cold in the winter.

Closing Considerations

The best way to protect your rabbit is to keep him or her indoors, and allow supervised playtime outside when you think they might enjoy some fresh air in fair weather. If you want to take your rabbit outside to play, always supervise; it only takes a moment for a predator to notice your absence and take advantage of your rabbit being outside alone. This is especially true if your rabbit plays outdoors regularly; you may have local predators who have been watching your rabbit play outside and regularly check your yard for an opportunity to attack your rabbit.

Sadly, it is not possible to completely protect your rabbit from a predator attack if they live outdoors; however, it is possible to provide them with additional protection as mentioned above. If you will be keeping your rabbit outdoors, please racoon proof your rabbit hutch to ensure they will be more safe from raccoons and other predators.

The post Racoon Proof Rabbit Hutch appeared first on Rabbit Expert.

0 notes

rabbitexpert · 7 years ago

Text

Before You Adopt a Rabbit: Things to Consider Before Bringing Bunny Home

Rabbits are adorable and make wonderful pets. But, like any pet, they require dedication on the part of their keepers. Here’s a few things to consider.

Rabbits are readily available through pet stores, breeders, and even “free to good homes” in the newspaper. However, many people bring a rabbit home without knowing what to expect, and, as a result, thousands of rabbits end up being euthanized in shelters every year. Worse, many rabbits live their lives in tiny cages in basements or backyard hutches without companionship or exercise, and without proper diet or vet care. Here are several things you should know before deciding to take home a bunny.

Rabbits can live for upwards of ten years: Like any animal, they deserve lifelong care. They are social, curious creatures who need mental stimulation and companionship in order to thrive. They require the same amount of time and energy that one would give to a cat or dog.

Rabbits do best when living inside: A rabbit in a hutch in the yard is less likely to be part of the family than a house-rabbit. Illnesses or injuries often go unnoticed for longer in a rabbit housed outside. Outdoor rabbits often fall victim to predators, and can even suffer a heart attack from fear if a predator comes near. Hutch rabbits are prone to problems like flystrike, heatstroke, and frostbite.

Rabbits need spacious housing and plenty of “out” time: Most of the cages sold in pet stores as “starter homes” are simply too small. A large dog crate is the minimum space, but a better choice is a large x-pen. Rabbits can be litterbox trained, so consider letting the rabbit enjoy free-range of a rabbit-proofed room, or even your entire home. However you decide to do it, rabbits need several hours out-of-cage time daily, so you will need to “rabbit-proof” part or all of your home. Rabbits chew everything, including power cords, books, and furniture.

Rabbits need specialized vet care: Rabbits are considered “exotics,” and not all veterinarians are up-to-date in rabbit medicine. Rabbits must be spayed and neutered, and same sex pairs will fight if unaltered. Unspayed females are prone to uterine cancer and false pregnancies, while unneutered males may spray, bite, and hump. Though rabbits do not generally require vaccinations, rabbits have fragile bones and delicate digestive systems and will almost certainly require expensive vet care at some point in their lives. Rabbits must be watched carefully for signs of G.I. Stasis, a common problem that kills if not dealt with quickly.

Rabbits are not good pets for children: Though rabbits can be affectionate, they generally do not enjoy being picked up or cuddled. A frightened rabbit may kick with its powerful back legs or bite if mishandled. They can be seriously injured if they are dropped or stepped on. They are easily stressed out by loud noise and rough activity. An adult should always be the primary caregiver of a rabbit, and interactions with children should be monitored.

Rabbits don’t always get along with other pets, even other rabbits: Though rabbits may learn to get along with dogs and cats, introductions should be done carefully. A rabbit should never be left alone with a predator unsupervised. Rabbits can form deep bonds with other bunnies, but not all rabbits get along, and rabbit fights are surprisingly violent. You may have to maintain separate quarters for a bunny you bring home as a “friend” for your rabbit.

Thousands of rabbits are languishing in shelters and rescues: Before you buy a bunny from a pet store or a breeder, consider adopting a rabbit from a shelter or rescue. Before you breed your bunny please consider how many rabbits are in shelters.

In short, be certain you can commit to meeting a rabbit’s needs before bringing one home. The House Rabbit Society is a great place to learn more about what to expect if you decide share your life with rabbits.

Images source: Bigstock.com

The post Before You Adopt a Rabbit: Things to Consider Before Bringing Bunny Home appeared first on Rabbit Expert.

0 notes

rabbitexpert · 8 years ago

Text

How to Clip Rabbit Nails

There is so much information online about how to clip rabbit nails, it can be overwhelming. Some people say it takes more than one person to clip a rabbit’s nails, others say they don’t even try to do it, they just take the rabbit to the vet or groomer to have it done. There is a lot of misleading advice out there, such as flipping your rabbit over, onto its back and putting it into a “trance”. Do not attempt this! Only a few rabbits can actually be restrained in this manner, and it is dangerous to put a bunny in this position because of its delicate spine.

There is also the “burrito” technique, in which the rabbit is wrapped tightly in a towel or blanket. The bunny burrito is stressful for the rabbit and it can be very difficult to get the rabbit bundled up enough to restrain it. Another common misconception is that using a flashlight to examine the nails helps you determine where to do the clipping. If your rabbit has dark nails, they will be opaque, not see-through, and so a flashlight won’t make any difference. If your rabbit has light colored nails, they will be translucent enough for you to see where the vein ends, without a flashlight. Allow me to explain a simple, successful, and stress-free method of clipping your bunny’s nails.

The Tools

There are a few items you should have ready before trying to clip the bunny’s nails:

Small scissor-style nail clippers made for rabbits or kittens

Styptic powder or corn starch to stop any bleeding if you accidentally cut into the quick (the vein inside the nail)

Parsley, small pieces of fruit, or other healthy treats to reward your rabbit with

When to Clip Rabbit Nails

Check your rabbit’s nails to see how long they are. If they are longer than the fur on their paws, it’s time for them to be clipped. Also, choose a time when the rabbit is relaxed and laying on the floor.

Where to Clip Rabbit Nails

In terms of the room, you should do the nail-clipping on the floor, in a room where you can easily re-position yourself when the rabbit hops to another area. Placing a bunny on a table or on furniture is stressful and dangerous.

How to Begin Clipping Rabbit Nails

Calmly approach your rabbit, and position yourself along its side. Pet the rabbit to help it stay relaxed. Use the hand that is closest to the rabbit to gently pick up and hold its front paw that is nearest to your body. Talk to the bunny in a praising manner, saying things like “Good bunny” and “Who’s my good boy/girl?” helps a lot. Act calm and casual, so that the rabbit doesn’t become suspicious and scared, and place the clippers on the tip of one of the nails, and quickly press the clippers together firmly, to get it over with as soon as possible. The longer you just sit there holding the bunny’s paw or fiddling with the clippers, the more you will stress the rabbit out, and it will take off running. Even if you clip the nail quickly and successfully, the rabbit will likely hop away from you and then settle down again. Follow the bunny calmly, and re-position yourself at its side, and continue this process for each nail, and each time that the bunny moves away. The back paws have larger, thicker nails, which will be slightly harder to clip. You will need to use a bit more pressure on the clippers to cut through them. Position yourself in the same way as for the front paws, at the bunny’s side, and only clip the tips of the nails.

After clipping a few of the nails, you will begin to feel more confident, and so will the rabbit. The bunny should soon realize that nail-clipping is not as terrifying as it seems, and it will let you get it over and done with. If you and the bunny become frustrated, just take a break. You could even leave it until another day, and then try again. Remember, rabbits are very sensitive, and they know when you are nervous, stressed, or frustrated, and they will become nervous as well.

The post How to Clip Rabbit Nails appeared first on Rabbit Expert.

0 notes

rabbitexpert · 8 years ago

Text

Common Rabbit Health Issues and How to Deal With Them

In a recent and very interesting development, doctors are using the ability of pets to sniff out potentially fatal diseases in humans before they progress to advanced levels. Call it ESP or an enhanced olfactory sense that allows them to detect abnormal scents, the programs are remarkably accurate and so far, dogs are stealing the show.

But doctors and researchers opine that even rabbits aren’t too far behind when it comes to detecting health conditions in humans. For example, it has been noted that rabbits display behavioral changes if and when their parents have fluctuations in their blood sugar levels.

If only, we could detect health problems in pets so easily. But unfortunately, most pet parents rely on symptomatic assessment of health conditions in pets rather than using preventive measures. And if you are a rabbit parent, spotting the symptoms may take a lot more than casual observation.

Rabbits have an inherent ability to hide symptoms. By the time one realizes that something is amiss, the condition may well have progressed to advanced levels requiring immediate medical assistance from a rabbit veterinarian.

Having reared and bought up more than a dozen bunnies, we have had our fair share of misses. From shock to panic to desperation, we have been through all the emotions that most rabbit parents go through at some point in their lives.

So, we figured that this was a great time to create a list of the most common health issues that might crop up in your bunnies from time to time and some tips on how to spot them early.

#1 – Gastrointestinal Stasis

GI Stasis is a rabbit parent’s worst nightmare come true. This serious and potentially fatal condition occurs more commonly in rabbits than one would like to imagine. And what makes it so serious is that the symptoms are extremely difficult to spot.

GI stasis occurs when the rabbit’s digestive system comes to a halt. Any rabbit food that the rabbit consumes is no longer processed and the metabolism is shut down.

Symptoms

Lethargy, lack of appetite, bloating and reduced fecal matter. One of the easiest ways to detect GI Stasis in rabbits is to rest your ears on your bunny’s abdomen gently and listen for sounds of the digestive system functioning normally. There’s typically a gurgling sound or something similar. If you do not hear any sounds at all, then there are chances that the digestive system may have shut down.

Treatment

In most of the cases, emergency surgery by a rabbit veterinarian may be the need of the hour. But if you have spotted the condition early, then your vet may be able to treat the condition using motility drugs and IV fluids. But if the condition has progressed and the digestive system has shut down completely, then the only way to reactivate the rabbit’s digestive system is via surgery. Contact a veterinarian immediately if you notice any of the above mentioned symptoms.

Prevention

An active bunny is a fit bunny. One of the ways to prevent GI stasis is to ensure that your bunny has an adequate supply of a variety of fresh hay, time and place for exercise and lots of fresh water. A high fiber diet will keep the digestive system active and also help reduce the risk of dental problems.

#2 – Ear Mites

Ear Mites are undoubtedly among the most common health conditions that can occur in rabbits. That’s irrespective of whether you keep your bunny indoors or outdoors. The good news is that the condition appears to be a lot more serious than it actually is. It is easily treatable. Having said that, if left untreated, it can quickly progress into secondary infections of the middle and inner ear. In extreme cases, mite infestations can also progress to meningitis. So, like any other health condition, you might want to start diagnosis and early treatment for ear mites.

Ear mites are contagious. So the chances of your bunny picking up mites after coming into contact with another infected bunny are high.

Symptoms

One of the first symptoms of an ear mite infestation is intense bouts of itching around the ears, neck and head. The itching may be generalized or focused mainly around the ears. There will be scales on the inner ear which will eventually form thick crusted lesions. There may be hair loss and occasional peeling of the skin. If the infestation has penetrated into the inner ear, it may cause loss of balance or head tilt in bunnies. Mite infestations can also spread to other parts of the rabbit’s body especially the belly and the area that surrounds the anus.

Treatment

Diagnosis involves taking samples of an exudate that is secreted from the crusted lesions. Your vet may then prescribe anti-parasitic drugs like ivermectin. Treatment also involves cleaning and treating the rabbit’s enclosure or hutch because the condition is contagious and can recur. Everything from the rabbit’s bed to utensils and combs must be completely disinfected before reusing. Never remove the crusts from the ears because it may expose the underlying skin which is prone to infections. Home remedies include using honey or vegetable oil to remove infestations in the early stages.

Prevention

The best way to prevent mite infestations in rabbits is to avoid contact with other infected bunnies. Maintain healthy grooming habits that allow you to spot the infection early. Keep the rabbit’s environment clean and sanitized. Ensure that your rabbit has ample room. Ear mite infestations have also been linked to increased stress in rabbits. Keep your pet clean and happy to keep the pesky bugs away.

#3 – Sore Hocks

‘Ulcerative Pododermatitis’ also known as ‘sore hocks’ is a condition in which the sole on the rabbit’s rear legs get infected and inflamed. The condition is typically localized in the area of the rabbit’s feet which come into contact with the floor as the rabbit rests.

Sore Hocks can occur due to multiple reasons. But the most common one is a hard floor or wired floor often seen in low quality rabbit hutches. Excessive moisture can also lead to inflammation of the feet. If left untreated, the condition progresses to severe inflammation and can cause lesions filled with pus. In extreme cases, it can affect the connective tissue making it impossible for the bunny to rest or walk normally. It may also limit the supply of blood to the connective tissue leading to brittle bones and even bone death.

Symptoms

Sore Hocks can range from mild to severe and are usually graded depending on the severity of the condition. In grades I to III, the condition is considered moderate and the bunny will show signs of hair loss near the bottom of the rear feet. Swelling is rare but not unusual. In some cases, the skin will become excessively red and may form scabs and ulcers which can be prone to infection.

Grades IV and V are advanced stages which are usually characterized by pustules, abscesses and inflamed tendons. Bone marrow infection can occur leading to disability, imbalance and an abnormal posture.

Treatment

The earlier the condition is diagnosed, the easier it is for the rabbit to recover fully from it. Diagnosis involves ruling out abscesses caused due to injury or fractures. Most vets may recommend an ultrasound to detect how advanced the condition has become. Rabbits that are diagnosed with bone infections will require undergoing an extended treatment that may take months. In early stages, the treatment revolves around pain management, reducing discomfort and inflammation. In the later stages however, surgical procedures may be recommended to remove dead tissue and prevent extreme infections.

Prevention

Well, the good news is that sore hocks can easily be prevented. Ensure that your rabbit has a soft and dry surface to rest on. It must be free of excessive moisture, including urine and feces. Keep the rabbit hutch in a dry environment. Keep an eye out for early signs of infection. If the rabbit hutch has a wire floor, then cover it with a thick and soft layer of flooring.

#4 – Snuffles

Snuffles are one of those conditions that look innocuous enough to avoid the need for veterinary assistance. But in reality, this annoying upper respiratory tract disorder can leave your bunny gasping for breath and if left untreated, can quickly progress into other conditions like conjunctivitis, wryneck and imbalance.

What is worse is that almost every domesticated rabbit will be hit with a bout of snuffles at some point or the other. One of the reasons that it is so widespread is because the condition is incredibly contagious. So, if your bunny is out for their periodic vet visit and comes into contact with an infected bunny or even the nasal discharge, they are on track to get infected themselves and possibly infect their partners who share the hutch.

Symptoms

There are many different strains of the bacteria that cause snuffles. The symptoms that your bunny will display depend on the exact strain that has infected them. Some can be as mild as a runny nose with a watery discharge. In advanced cases, the discharge is thick, yellowish and has a mucous like consistency. This is followed by bouts of sneezing and snuffling during which the rabbit finds it difficult to breathe normally.

If left undetected or untreated, the infection progresses into the inner ear triggering a horde of unpleasant symptoms. Wryneck which is an uncharacteristic twisting of the neck is one of the conditions triggered by untreated snuffles. Rabbit parents often find it impossible to believe that the runny nose could have triggered something so severe in their pets. There have been cases in which untreated snuffles has triggered pneumonia in rabbits.

Treatment

The normal mode of treatment is antibiotic therapy that may last for almost a month depending on the severity of the condition. But antibiotics and the digestive system in bunnies are not a great combination because it often ends up killing the healthy bacteria in the gut that aid digestion. So, vets usually supplement the healthy bacterial strains during treatment with antibiotics. Ensure that your rabbit has a healthy and nutritious diet during treatment. If the condition was not diagnosed early, then it may develop chronic sinus infections that take prolonged treatment to control.

There have even been cases in which the rabbit needed lifelong medication to keep the condition under control.

Prevention

For a condition so prevalent among domesticated rabbit breeds, prevention plays a very critical role in ensuring that your pet is not infected with snuffles. If you have multiple pets and one pet is showing signs of an infection, then strict quarantine should be maintained until the infected bunny heals completely.

Any shared bedding, food, water and hutch should be cleaned and disinfected. Keep your bunny healthy and active at all times to prevent their immune systems from being suppressed or compromised. Stress can often trigger conditions like snuffles. If you are a rabbit breeder, then ensure that you select a healthy young rabbit that does not have any signs of a possible infection.

#5 – Cocci or Coccidiosis

If you have ever been to rabbit support groups or checked online forums for support on rabbit health, you are most likely to have heard about Cocci or Coccidiosis. It has a nasty reputation for being one of those conditions that can lie hidden in your pet for days or even weeks without any symptoms whatsoever. By the time you start to notice that something is amiss, the infection may already have progressed to severe requiring urgent medical attention.

For the uninitiated, cocci are caused due to a parasitic infection by a parasite known as Eimeria sp. There are more than 25 known species of the parasite and most rabbits are believed to be asymptomatic carriers of the protozoa. This means that a healthy bunny’s immune system develops immunity to the condition. However, if the immunity is compromised or the rabbit is young or ailing, then the infection can be triggered.

Symptoms

The symptoms in coccidiosis are extremely difficult to spot. In early stages, it may be as common as a lackluster coat which overlaps with a plethora of other conditions in rabbits. Some other symptoms include anemia, dehydration, weight loss, lack of appetitie and depression. In intestinal coccidiosis, advanced stages can lead to convulsions and even paralysis in rabbits. On the other hand, in hepatic coccidiosis, it can lead to liver damage and bile duct damage. In extreme cases, it can lead to coma and even death.

Treatment

Early and accurate diagnosis is the key to successful treatment of Coccidiosis. Most vets start by discussing the pet’s history and by using symptoms to narrow down on the exact cause. Fecal examination can at times reveal oocysts. But once again, it is extremely difficult to separate those from normal yeast which are common in rabbit feces. In advanced cases, vets may recommend a radiograph to detect signs of liver damage or fluid buildup.

Unfortunately, treatment is aimed at management of the condition rather than completely curing it. Treatment methodology is dependent on the symptoms. If the rabbit is displaying signs of dehydration, then intravenous fluids are administered to help restore normal fluid levels in the body. Intestinal coccidiosis is treated with antiprotozoal drugs like Sulfaquinoxaline. Treatment is started for small time durations like 7 days and then repeated to ensure that the condition is contained. The same medication is prescribed for hepatic coccidiosis as well but it rarely prevents liver lesions from forming.

Some vets also prescribe antibiotics and dietary supplements which help to boost the immune system as the primary infection is being treated. With early diagnosis and treatment, most rabbits are able to build a lifelong immunity against the protozoa.

Prevention

Prevention of cocci in rabbits is possible with a regular and stringent sanitation program. The rabbits environment should be cleaned and checked periodically for signs of infection. The hutch should be scrubbed clean of any fecal matter. Use ammonia 10% solution to disinfect the rabbit cage. Keep your bunny active and healthy by providing them with ample room to move around. A healthy diet that is rich in timothy hay with fresh vegetables and fruits will help develop a strong immune system and gut.

This is not the most exhaustive list of illnesses and health conditions that can occur in rabbits. But these are by far the most common ones that you are likely to encounter. We hope that this helps you in the early diagnosis, treatment and most importantly, prevention of these conditions in your pets. We would love to hear your thoughts. So feel free to chime in.

Images source: Bigstock.com

The post Common Rabbit Health Issues and How to Deal With Them appeared first on Rabbit Expert.

0 notes

rabbitexpert · 8 years ago

Text

Rabbit Grooming Guide For Responsible Rabbit Owners

First time rabbit parents find themselves wrecking their nerves trying to figure out rabbit grooming.

‘Why is the rabbit shedding so much?’

‘A bunch of hair just came out and there’s a bald spot. Did I just pluck out more hair than what’s required?’

‘The nails seem too long. Should I clip it? Will it bleed?’

There’s never a dearth of doubt when it comes to grooming techniques and methods for bunnies. This has partly to do with the fact that rabbits as pets are fairly recent. For a long time, they were bred for meat and fur.

So, even experienced rabbit parents sometimes find themselves at their wits end trying to figure out grooming.

Unlike dogs, rabbits have an entirely different set of grooming requirements that begins with regular brushing and ends with periodic inspection of the rabbit’s body parts. A well groomed rabbit will be healthy, happy and disease free. So it is crucial that you familiarize yourself with the essentials of rabbit grooming.

Also, along with helping maintain the health of the rabbit, grooming also helps you create an everlasting bond with your pet. It is not uncommon for rabbits to look forward to grooming time as they relax and enjoy the experience.

We created this Rabbit Grooming 101 guide for new as well as seasoned rabbit owners to make grooming safe, easy and enjoyable. We will cover every aspect of grooming in detail including some basic over the counter recommended medications for common health problems in rabbits.

The Basics of Grooming

Despite appearing that they don’t need attention and that they can groom themselves pretty well, rabbits are extremely delicate creatures that can rarely display symptoms of health problems. Grooming them regularly helps you keep an eye out for potential problems and spot them before they can escalate to more serious ones.

The supplies that you need:

Nail clipper

Cotton (Lots of it)

Alcohol

Styptic powder

Gloves

Q-Tips

Baby Oil

Matt rake

Soft bristle brush

Towels

So are you all set to begin?

Brushing Your Rabbit

Brushing helps to remove the hair that the rabbit sheds naturally. And rabbits shed a lot. Most rabbit breeds shed heavily once in three months. The shedding alternates between unnoticeable and mild to heavy during which the rabbit’s coat is replaced by a new one.

The duration of the heavy shedding is highly breed specific and also dependent on the bunny itself. You may find that one of your bunnies sheds a lot more than the other.

Irrespective of the breed, brushing once a week for short haired breeds ensures that any of shed hair that may be clinging on to the coat is released. For long haired breeds like Angora, brushing is recommended at least once every three days. This also helps to prepare the bunny for the daily brushing sessions that will replace the weekly sessions during phases of molting or heavy shedding.

Brushing Technique

Soft-bristle brushes are perfect for brushing your rabbit’s coat. You should be careful to brush in the direction of the fur only. This is more than sufficient to bring any loose hair to the surface which can then be removed by hand. Some vets also use two different types of brushes for rabbits. While brushes with wider teeth are preferred for breeds with longer hair, bristled brushes are used for shorter fur. If there are too many tangles, you can use a mat rake.

When brushing on the underside, gently position the rabbit on your lap making them comfortable. You can use a towel or any other soft cloth to allow the rabbit to rest. Rabbits often doze away into slumber land when you brush their underside.

Another simple technique is to wet your hands and just run it over the coat to remove any loose hair. This cannot be considered as a replacement for proper brushing. But it does help to remove any small fur that may not be removed with normal brushing.

Hairballs

Rabbits like cats constantly lick themselves as part of their grooming behavior which can result in them ingesting hair. This can cause hairballs which are also known as trichobezoars. But unlike cats, they cannot vomit the hairballs out and it can cause an obstruction in their stomach or in their intestinal tract. Grooming helps to reduce the risk of hairballs in rabbits. One of the telltale signs of a hairball obstruction is lack of appetite and activity. Also, the quantity of feces will reduce significantly. If you suspect a hairball obstruction in rabbits, then contact a vet immediately.

Matted Fur

Time and again, you may discover matted fur on your bunny’s body. Sometimes, it can be in locations which are very difficult to comb through. For example, under the tail. You might be tempted to go chop-chop on the mat as it can easily alleviate the tension that it causes. But rabbits have extremely delicate skin which is easily prone to cuts from a scissor. You can use a mat rake with a fine blade to take the mat apart. In case you find it very difficult to remove with a rake, speak to your vet for help.

Mites And Fleas

Despite frequent grooming and care, fleas and mites can find their way on to your rabbit’s skin and fur. These pesky little critters can hide themselves amazingly well and by the time you notice your rabbit scratching their gut out, the fleas might have spread to a full blown infestation. The first and most important thing is to find out the number of fleas on your rabbits body. Gently run your hands parting the fur to spot the fleas. If the infestation is mild, then use a flea comb. It is pretty similar to using a grooming comb and rabbits usually like being combed. After combing, if you find any fleas in the comb, then dip it in a soap solution or alcohol to ensure that the fleas are killed.

If the infestation is severe, then you may need to speak to a vet who will recommend a topical medication like Advantage, Program or Revolution. All three of these are brand names for topical insecticides which are safe for application in rabbits.

Care must be taken to ensure that the rabbits do not lick or ingest the medication as it can cause an upset tummy. One of the best spots to apply the medication is behind the neck.

Revolution in particular, is considered as one of the best treatments for multiple conditions including mites that cause ear canker and mange.

Speak to your vet about measuring the medication so that you can administer the right doses. Also, mite eggs can often hide in the fur or dander that the rabbit sheds. For this reason, it is crucial that you completely scrub and clean both, the cage as well as the area that the rabbit enjoys a free run in. That may be the house or the backyard or the run. But it must be vacuumed and any fur or dander that the rabbit may have shed prior to the treatment must be removed.

Scratchy Skin

Rabbits can develop bald patches or flakes on their skin due to mites. Sometimes, it can also be caused due to an allergy triggered by fleas. In either cases, your vet may recommend one of the three medications that we have mentioned above. In cases of chronic inflammation or in case of bacterial infections like pyoderma, speak to your vet about the best treatment methodology.

Cleaning The Scent Glands

If your rabbit suddenly smells like a skunk, then it may be due to the buildup of a gooey or waxy substance in their scent glands around the anus. This is scent musk and is a normal secretion in rabbits. However, some bunnies secret a lot more than others. It has a very pungent odor and cleaning or unplugging the glands from time to time helps prevent the buildup and the odor to an extent.

Gently position the rabbit on your lap, lift up the tail and part the skin around the little anus to expose the scent glands. You will be able to see the waxy buildup now. Use a Q-tip to scoop out the secretion from one gland. Repeat for the other gland as well. You can also use a cotton wad dipped in some petroleum jelly to lubricate the gland. This makes it easier to remove the waxy secretion. FYI, rabbits also have scent glands under their chin which they use to mark their territory.

Nails

House rabbits often do not get enough exercise on a variety of ground surfaces. They spend most of their lifespan on carpeted floors or linoleum surfaces which prevents their nails from being naturally worn out and maintained. So, you may have to trim the nails from time to time to a suitable length. Nail trimming is a fairly simple process once you know the precise length to trim it to. The nail has a vein in it which is also called the quick. You need to clip the nails just below the quick. If you accidentally do clip the quick (common occurrence), just apply Styptic powder to stop the bleeding.

If you are new to it, your vet can help you with the process. Some rabbits are petrified of nail trimming. So, it is important to associate nail trimming with positive reinforcement. Offering them treats or patting them helps ease the anxiety. Also, if you start at an early age, the bunny will get desensitized to the trimming.

Declawing a Rabbit

Never ever, declaw a rabbit. A rabbit’s claw helps them generate traction on the floor and they are not retractable like those of a cat. In effect, the rabbit will be hopping around on the surgery site for days to come until it is completely healed. Not only is it extremely painful for the bunny, but it is very likely to get infected.

Sore Hocks

Rabbit cages must have rugs or fleece blankets that provide your bunny with a soft and comfortable resting place. This will help prevent the padding of the feet from being worn out or form calluses. Calluses or skin inflammation on the pads must be treated immediately for the risk of infection which can become chronic over a period of time. Also, ensure that the resting rugs are dry. Moist surfaces can trigger a bacterial skin infection.

Teeth

With the incessant gnawing and chewing on the hay that is kept in their hutch or cage, a rabbit usually keeps their teeth growth in check. However, if your bunny has crooked teeth then it may not get worn out naturally with the chewing. In such cases, you may have to clip the teeth to restrict or control their growth. If left unchecked, it grows to an extent that the rabbit finds it impossible to eat and can even starve to death. You can use a teeth clipper yourself or you can take your rabbit to the vet to get the teeth clipped. It’s a simple and painless procedure.

Bathing Time

It’s fun to see the bunny frolic in water, isn’t it? Well, it is far from fun for the rabbit. Rabbits hate water. In fact, they despise the experience so much that it can traumatize them and make them extremely anxious. In some rare cases, it can also cause a heart attack. Rabbits do not need to be bathed. Like cats, they are excellent at licking themselves clean. However, there may be situations when you feel that the rabbit needs to be bathed. For example, it has a poopy butt or has tracked in dirt or has matted fur all over. You can always use a damp towel to spot clean. Read our section on matted fur to know how to detangle mats. But let me reiterate. Never bathe the rabbit unless your vet recommends it as a measure to bring down fever.

Checking The Ears

The buildup of ear wax or debris in a rabbit’s ears must be cleaned at least once every four weeks. Just check the inside of the ear and use a cotton swab or a baby wipe to scoop out the wax. Do not use Q-tips as it may cause the wax to get pushed further inside the ears. Also, there’s always the risk of damaging the inner ear. If your rabbit hutch is outdoors, then ear mite infestations will occur at some point or the other. Thankfully, the condition is easy to treat if diagnosed early. You can use a topical solution like Mitox or anything similar that your vet recommends. Once the condition is treated completely, use baby oil to prevent a reinfection.

The Eyes

Last but not the least, we have the rabbit’s eyes. Your bunny’s eyes will naturally produce some gunk or wax which form crusts in the corner. These can be removed by using a damp cotton swab allowing the crust to loosen first. However, if you feel that the rabbit is crying or there’s a white mucus like discharge from the eyes, then it may be a condition called runny eyes or epiphora. This is one of the commonest conditions in rabbits. The only respite may be to head to the vet because if it is a bacterial infection, it needs to be checked before it spreads or becomes more severe.

The Vet Check up

Even if you are a diligent groomer, you still need to ensure that your bunny gets its periodic checkup by a veterinarian. If you are unsure whether the vet is rabbit savvy, you can always use the House Rabbit Society Veterinarian Index to find a rabbit-savvy vet close to you. Regular health checkups help to spot any potential health condition that you may have missed out on. Remember what we told you about the lack of symptoms in rabbits?

To Sum it up

After every successful grooming session, pat your rabbit to encourage them and instill a positive feeling about the grooming experience. You can also use their favorite treats.

Images source: Bigstock.com

The post Rabbit Grooming Guide For Responsible Rabbit Owners appeared first on Rabbit Expert.

0 notes

rabbitexpert · 8 years ago

Text

Signs of Illness in Pet Rabbits: Is my Pet Rabbit Ill?

A new pet rabbit should first be taken to a qualified veterinarian for a check up. I say qualified veterinarian because some veterinarians choose not to see rabbits. Ask for a recommendation from a rabbit rescue, they should be able to give you a list of veterinarians to use. I cannot stress enough the importance of this first exam, you need to establish a relationship with a veterinarian. That way if the bunny is ever sick you have a veterinarian to make an appointment with. Veterinarians are busy; they will be more likely to squeeze in an emergency with an existing client over someone they don’t know.

Rabbits are sensitive and because of that fact owners should be on the look out for signs of illness. Signs of illness in rabbits include but are not limited too:

Changes in behavior or Lethargy – If your pet rabbits behavior changes call your veterinarian for an appointment. If the bunny seems less active (lethargic) or doesn’t want to play, doesn’t want to leave it’s bunny cage, etcetera, these are all reasons to contact the veterinarian.

Runny eyes or nose and sneezing – Runny eyes and/or nose and/or sneezing are signs of a respiratory infection.

Not eating – A rabbit that is off food and refusing treats could be ill.

Drooling – This is a symptom of a sore tooth. The rabbit might also be turning down crunchy food and treats.

Head tilt – Symptom of ear problems/infections.

Scratching/itching/shaking head – All symptoms of fleas and mites. These are a stubborn group and treatment needs to be begin immediately. Ask your veterinarian how to get rid of the fleas and/or mites. Rabbits are sensitive and the same products used on dogs and cats cannot be used on rabbits unless advised by a rabbit vet.

Lumps and abscesses – Rabbits are prone to abscesses so be on the look out for lumps on your rabbit. Antibiotics maybe necessary.

Stools – Watch your rabbit’s stool for changes in color, size, dry/hard, or wet. These changes could indicate whether or not your rabbit has a healthy GI tract.

Urine – Also watch for changes in the rabbits urine. Bunny urine can be yellow to orange depending on what is being fed. If you question whether or not the urine is bloody have your vet test a sample – better safe than sorry. Bunny can get urinary tract infection, bladder stones, and cancer.

If your rabbit is displaying any of the above symptoms contact your rabbit veterinarian immediately. To truly know when your rabbit is sick you need to spend time with your pet. Play with your bunny and handle it (if tolerated) often. That is the only way you’ll be able to catch illness early.

Image source: Bigstock.com

The post Signs of Illness in Pet Rabbits: Is my Pet Rabbit Ill? appeared first on Rabbit Expert.

0 notes

rabbitexpert · 8 years ago

Text

Common Rabbit Illnesses And Problems

Like other mammals, pet rabbits are susceptible to certain problems and illnesses. It is beneficial for owners to be aware of these potential problems so that they can do their best to prevent them.

Common Rabbit Illnesses And Problems

There are certain rabbit illnesses that pet rabbits are susceptible too, however, with proper care, correct diet, and regular handing and cleaning of the rabbit hutch, owners can prevent many problems. Some common rabbit illnesses include:

Overgrown claws

Malocclusion of teeth – This is where the teeth aren’t properly worn down. The veterinarian can file the teeth down if need be.

Abscesses – Particularly around the head due to tooth root infection.

Injuries due to falls, dog or cat attacks or not being handled properly by young children.

Furballs/hairballs – Furballs are fairly common in rabbits and cause lethargy and loss of appetite. When there is a large amount of fur in the stomach, and the rabbit can’t pass the hair, it can cause an obstruction in the intestines. Daily brushing and a high fiber diet should be enough to prevent hairballs.

Ringworm – A fungal infection that affects rabbits and results in circular areas of hair loss around the edges of lesions. Ringworm usually causes discomfort and irritation but is treatable with medications and topical treatments.

Snuffles – ‘Snuffles’ is an infectious disease caused by the Pastuerella bacterium. Symptoms of snuffles include nasal and ocular discharge and sneezing. Rabbit snuffles can potentially cause lung damage, ear infections and abscesses. Respiratory disease is usually as a result of a poorly ventilated rabbit hutch or too warn an environment.

Sore Hocks – Sore hocks in rabbits is when the rabbit develops open sores on its hocks as a result of sitting on wire flooring or very hard flooring. Soft bedding (eg: hay) and a clean hutch will minimize the risk of sore hocks.

Rabbit Parasites

Just like dogs and cats, rabbits can suffer from parasite infestation. Many are preventable or treatable with correct care. Owners that are concerned should consult the veterinarian. These rabbit parasites include:

Coccidiosis – Causes diarrhea and weight loss. This is usually seen in litters raised in unhygienic environments.

Rabbits can potentially become infested with cestodes (tapeworms), however, in most cases, infection doesn’t affect the host. Rabbits can also get roundworms.

Ear mites and fur mites. Ear mites can cause canker (inflammation or infection of the ear) in rabbits.

Myiasis is parasitism by dipteran fly larvae. Commonly seen in sheep, flies can lay eggs around the anus of a rabbit especially one who has suffered from diarrhea, as they are attracted to smelly animals. Not commonly seen in rabbits, especially if they are kept clean.

Pet rabbits can also suffer from lice infections which cause irritation, self-injury and in extreme cases, anemia (as a result of lice taking blood meals). Products such as Advantage© can be used on rabbits to control fleas and lice.

Owners should seek veterinary advice if their rabbit is showing signs or illness, is lethargic, off its food or any other signs.

Image source: Bigstock.com

The post Common Rabbit Illnesses And Problems appeared first on Rabbit Expert.

0 notes

rabbitexpert · 8 years ago

Text

How to Buy a Healthy Rabbit: A Checklist For Choosing a Physically Fit Bunny

If you’re buying a pet bunny from a pet store or a backyard breeder, you need to make sure it is absolutely healthy before bringing it home to your family. Some diseases, including some forms of mange and most parasites can be contagious to humans, especially small children. Consider adopting a bunny from an animal rescue organization, or at the very least, know what to look for when shopping for your rabbit.

Check Out The Bunny’s Head

The first things to look at when shopping for a healthy bunny are the eyes—they should be clear and not runny or congested with a watery discharge. A healthy bunny’s nose should be pink inside and relatively dry. Its nostrils should expand and contract in a steady, even manner unless it is extremely hot, in which case the respiration will be more rapid. If you notice blue discoloration or rapid breathing under mild weather conditions, you may suspect potential heart and lung problems or some sort of infection. If the bunny is sneezing a lot, he may have a contagious disease called “snuffles.” You should avoid a bunny that is sick.

The inside of your bunny’s ears should be soft and clean, with no ear mites or scabs. His teeth should be clean and straight, not bent into a horn shape. If a bunny’s teeth grow too long or are malformed, he may not be able to properly eat solid foods and might have to have his teeth clipped—a terribly painful procedure that only helps the rabbit for a short amount of time, as the teeth continue to grow.

Coat, Belly And Bottom

One of the best indications of a rabbit’s overall health is the shape of its coat. It should be shiny, soft and smooth, with no rough patches, bald spots or standing ends. A bunny’s belly should be fat and round, but if it is hard or bloated, it might be sick or pregnant. Unless you are prepared to take care of a litter, avoid purchasing a pregnant bunny.

The bunny’s bottom should be clean, as rabbits, like cats, are constant groomers. If you see fecal matter on this bottom or in the fur, the bunny might be suffering from diarrhea.

Checking Bunny’s Limbs

Because rabbits are so very fragile, it is extremely easy for them to get fractures or broken bones if dropped or mishandled. Before buying a bunny, watch how it moves across the floor. If you notice that the rabbit seems to be favoring one paw over another, or if it is dragging a leg when it moves, the bunny may have been seriously injured and require expensive medical care.

Whether purchasing your rabbit from a breeder or a pet store or adopting it from a private owner or rescue organization, with a little observation and insight, you can choose a healthy bunny that can remain in your family for years to come.

Image source: Bigstock.com

The post How to Buy a Healthy Rabbit: A Checklist For Choosing a Physically Fit Bunny appeared first on Rabbit Expert.

0 notes

rabbitexpert · 8 years ago

Text

Rabbit Diseases: Encephalitozoon Cuniculi

Encephalitozoon cuniculi is otherwise known as e. cuniculi. It is a very small parasite which infects rabbits and other mammals and in some rare instances has also infected humans (with problems affecting their immune system). This disease attacks the central nervous system.

How Do Rabbits Catch E. Cuniculi?

Most rabbits suffering from e.cuniculi have caught it from their mother whilst in the nest. If a female rabbit has this disease she can pass it onto her babies via contaminated urine. Once a rabbit has been infected for one month, they will start producing spores of the virus, which they can easily pass onto other rabbits. The rabbit ingests contaminated spores (usually in food), and the disease is then absorbed and travels through to the brain and other internal organs.

Symptoms of Encaphalitozoon Cuniculi

Not all rabbits with this disease display symptoms. Many rabbits with e. cuniculi have a normal life However some do display more severe symptoms of the disease. Due to the affects of the disease on the central nervous system, the following symptoms can occur:

Dramatic head tilt

Severe weight loss due to kidney problems

Convulsions

Eye problems.

Loss of balance

Weakness of the back legs

Paralysis

Coma

Fatality

Any of these problems could be an indication of e. cuniculi, however they could also be an indication of other problems, therefore veterinary advice should be obtained should any of these symptoms occur.

Is There Any Treatment For Encephalitozoon Cuniculi?

Possibly, however it is difficult to give a definite diagnosis of the disease. The antibodies of the disease can be detected by a simple blood test. However these tests cannot always tell if the rabbit has had the disease in the past and is now recovered, or if the rabbit currently has the disease.

Frequently the disease is diagnosed too late for treatment and fatality occurs. Over the last few year vets in the USA have been treating rabbits with e. cuniculi using fenbendazole or albendazole with good results, however these medications are not yet licensed in the United Kingdom.

Even though fenbendazole and albendazole can be effective in killing the e. cuiculi parasite, the affects that they have had on the central nervous system are irreversible. It is thought that weaning baby rabbits from their mother early can reduce the risk of the disease spreading.

If a rabbit displays any symptoms which may be an indication of e.cuniculi, please consult a vet immediately.

The post Rabbit Diseases: Encephalitozoon Cuniculi appeared first on Rabbit Expert.

0 notes

rabbitexpert · 8 years ago

Text

What Do Rabbits Eat and Drink?

Rabbits can make incredible pets, combining many of the unique traits of other animals. Like dogs, they are playful and loyal, but like cats, they often have an independent streak and require less attention. But what do you feed a rabbit? Which rabbit food to choose?

Even though your rabbit is domesticated, its diet should resemble what it would eat if it were in the wild. So that offers a great starting point for launching into our topic!

What Do Wild Rabbits Eat?

In the wild, the key component of a rabbit’s diet is hay. In fact, it accounts for anywhere from 80%-90% of a wild rabbit’s diet. That means it should account for the vast majority of your domesticated bunny’s diet as well.

Why is hay so important? It has a number of vital health benefits for rabbits:

Rabbits need the fiber in hay to support their digestive system. Without enough fiber, blockages may form. When this occurs, it is known as “gastrointestinal stasis.” It is a common problem with rabbits—and a severe one—as it can result in death within 24 hours.

One curious fact about rabbits is that their teeth are constantly growing. That means they need to be ground down, or they will grow out of control, forming abscesses and other alarming health problems. Chomping on hay wears down the teeth so that they remain safe.

Chewing on hay can help strengthen a rabbit’s jaw.

Rabbits enjoy sorting through their hay, so it keeps them entertained.

Aside from hay, what do wild rabbits eat and drink? When the weather is warm and food sources are plentiful, rabbits in the wild turn to various grasses, weeds, vegetables, and flowers to fill out the rest of their diets.

As these food sources dissipate in the winter, bunnies may consume bark, twigs, and needles from evergreen trees. During the springtime, they also may eat buds while waiting for vegetables to grow and flowers to bloom.

What Do Pet Rabbits Eat?

For the most part, your pet rabbit’s diet is going to closely resemble that of a wild rabbit.

When shopping for rabbit food for sale, you will be looking for hay for rabbits to eat as well as vegetables. But you also will be shopping for pellets and treats.

Before getting into the details, it is worth pointing out that baby rabbits have different dietary needs than adult rabbits. So let’s break this section down and look first at what you should be feeding a baby bunny, and then what you should feed a full-grown rabbit.

What Do Baby Rabbits Eat?

If you want to know how to feed and take care of a baby bunny, that depends in part on whether you are talking about a wild bunny or a domesticated baby rabbit.

Say you found a baby rabbit nest, and that nest has clearly been disturbed. Your first thought is probably going to be to move the nest, the babies, or both.

You should generally not do this, as the babies probably have not been abandoned. Mother rabbits avoid their nests most of the time so that they will not draw the attention of predators. They return to feed their babies.

If a baby is severely injured and/or you have stronger reasons to believe they are truly orphaned, you may feel tempted to take them in. Their care and feeding is quite complex, however, because you have to find a way to replace the protective nutrients in their mother’s milk.

For this reason, it is highly advised that you call a local wildlife rehab center and get an expert on the job.

What do domesticated baby bunnies eat? Head to your local pet store and shop for either goat milk or kitten milk replacer (KMR). Sometimes a vet will carry these as well. Never go with low-fat! You also should add probiotics to the mix.

Note that the exact formula you need will vary from one species to the next, as will the amount you need. Domestic baby bunnies should be fed sitting upright twice a day using a syringe or eyedropper. In theory you can follow these rules with wild babies as well, but again, contacting your local wildlife rehab center is highly advised.

How often do you feed a rabbit? Following are basic guidelines for babies. Remember, they can vary from species to species:

1-2 weeks old: 5-7 cc/ml, twice a day

2-3 weeks old: 7-13 cc/ml, twice a day

3-6 weeks old: 13-15 cc/ml, twice a day

With certain species of baby bunnies (with the exception of jackrabbits), you need to also make sure that they are urinating and defecating after eating. This procedure involves using a cotton ball swabbed in warm water. It is a bit beyond the scope of this article, but hopefully it helps you see important it is to do in-depth research before caring for a baby bunny.

What Do Adult Rabbits Eat?

Now that you know more about what baby bunnies eat, let’s talk about what to feed an adult rabbit.

Hay: Most of your adult rabbit’s diet will be comprised of hay. What do young bunnies eat after they are ready to start in on hay? Alfalfa is a good choice—but it is not ideal for older rabbits, who do better with oat hays, grass hays, or timothy hays. Always make sure the hay is fresh. Note that some rabbits are picky eaters, but you must find some type of hay that your rabbit will eat. You cannot have a healthy rabbit without a hay-based diet!

Vegetables: Your rabbit also will eat a variety of vegetables. What vegetables can rabbits eat? Some examples of veggies which are appropriate to feed to rabbits include celery, broccoli leaves, bok choy, cilantro, collard greens, dill, mint, clover, and water cress.

Pellets: Rabbit food pellets should be low in protein, high in fiber, and fresh. Make certain they do not contain additives. They should make up a small percentage of your bunny’s diet.

Treats: Most of the “bunny treats” sold in stores are not healthy since they contain too much sugar and fat. Fruit is an ideal alternative; consider strawberries, pineapple, bananas, raspberries, or apples. Do not go overboard with fruits; your bunny’s sugar intake should be kept at a low level.

What Do Pet Rabbits Drink?

Do pet rabbits drink water? Yes! In fact, wild rabbits turn to ground sources of water to stay hydrated, so if you serve your bunnies water out of a bowl, that mimics how they would drink in nature.

You can purchase water bottles for rabbits, but these are largely used in breeding facilities and the like because they are convenient for staff—not because rabbits enjoy them. Rabbits prefer bowls, so stick with a heavy ceramic bowl (a lightweight plastic dish will “wander” a lot, as rabbits like to move things around).

What Rabbits Can’t Eat

Now that you know what to feed a rabbit, it is also important to talk about foods not to feed rabbits. Here are some examples:

Lettuce

Cabbage

Rutabaga

Turnip

Tomato leaves

Potatoes

Spinach

Green beans

Corn

Avocado

Onions

Chives

Leeks

Beets

Bread, crackers and other high-carb foods

Note that this is not a complete list of all foods bunnies can’t eat—if in doubt, always look up a specific type of food before you feed it to your rabbit (you can check our post about what can rabbits eat).

There are many outdoor plants which your bunny should also avoid, some examples being clover, anemone, buttercups, hemlock, ivy, and foxglove. Again, this is not an extensive list, so make sure your yard is safe before you let your bunny go out and munch on your plants.

Action Tips

If you have to change your rabbit’s diet, so do gradually. A sudden change can result in digestive problems. It may also be deadly with a baby rabbit, old rabbit, sick rabbit, or any rabbit that is particularly fragile or stressed.

If your bunny has never eaten a certain food before, introduce it in small amounts and see what happens. If your rabbit is able to digest it with no issues, you can incorporate more.

Foods which cause gas are very dangerous for your rabbits since they cannot expel it. Certain herbs such as fennel and lemon balm can help relieve bloating and gas.

If your rabbit becomes lethargic, hunches over, and loses its appetite, it could mean it is suffering from gastrointestinal stasis. Other signs include small, unusually-shaped or absent fecal pellets. Seek emergency treatment immediately or your rabbit could die inside 24 hours.

Conclusion

There are many things which can go wrong with a rabbit’s diet, whether we are talking about an adult rabbit or a baby. So make sure that you research the topic in-depth before you attempt to care for a pet rabbit of your own. That way you can ensure that your bunny will stay safe and healthy!

Images source: Bigstock.com

The post What Do Rabbits Eat and Drink? appeared first on Rabbit Expert.

0 notes

rabbitexpert · 8 years ago

Text

Manna Pro Rabbit Food: Review by The Experts (2017 Updated)

In a pet food market that is overcrowded with mom and pop brands making an appearance each passing day, Manna Pro has managed to carve a niche of its own. Its small word range of pet food that includes foods for rats, mice, hamsters, gerbils, guinea pigs, rabbits and chinchillas are a favorite among pet parents looking for small sized firm pellets without unwanted mixes and colors.

I have personally used their rabbit feed for the rabbits and the chinchilla range for the chinchillas that we rescued and fostered for a while.

This is my Manna Pro small word rabbit feed review.

Buy from AMAZON.COM

Budget Priced Rabbit Food

Living with six bunnies can be more expensive than what you’d imagine. Along with the dry food, I also have to get them regular share of fresh hay, leafy greens, fruits and veggies. So, when I was asked to foster two rescued bunnies for three to four months, I was on the lookout for budget priced rabbit foods that wouldn’t compromise on the nutritional profile either.

After a few hits and misses, I finally narrowed down on the Manna Pro Small World Feed.

And immediately, I was very impressed with the ingredient list and the price tag.

There’s Wheat Millrun, Sun cured Alfalfa Meal, Soybean hulls (20%), Rice Bran, Soybean Meal, Corn Distiller’s Dried Grains with soluble and a whole laundry list of vitamins and minerals which provide your bunnies with the nutrition that’s lacking in the natural food they eat.

Here are the ingredients that I liked.

Wheat Millrun: Wheat millrun is the byproduct of milling that’s loaded with fat, fat-soluble vitamins like vitamin A, D, E, K and minerals. The reduced starch content and the fact that it is gluten free, make it an excellent addition to the dry food for rabbits. Also, it has very high fiber content.

Alfalfa Meal: Sun cured alfalfa meal adds the much needed protein in the formula. However, the content is kept to a minimum as excessive of alfalfa can cause urinary problems in adult rabbits.

Rice bran: A small percentage of rice bran adds some healthy fats to the food which also helps to keep the rabbit’s coat shiny and soft. Not to mention that this improves the taste of the pellets.

Vitamin Blend and amino acids: Along with the fat soluble vitamins that I mentioned earlier, the Manno Pro small world rabbit feed also contains a whole range of B vitamins and essential amino acids.

That’s about the best nutritional profile in any rabbit food that you’d get for less than $6 for a 10 lbs bag. Don’t get me wrong here. I am not trying to pinch pennies and feed junk to my pets. I’d never do that.

But Manna Pro’s pricing for the dry food formula is unbelievable. I have seen many other brands being sold for obscenely high rates having much worse ingredients in it.

Do Bunnies Like It?

I have been using the Manna Pro Small word rabbit feed with hundreds of bunnies in the foster and rescue center that we head. The bunnies just gorge on it. The pellets are small, soft and chewy and one of the most important aspects is that they are uniform sized. There are no multi-colored pellets that your bunnies can cherry pick.

Add this to a regular diet of timothy hay and your bunnies should be able to maintain a healthy weight and have rich and lush looking coats.

What is The Right Dosage For my Pet?

As always, I recommend that the dry food should only account for approximately 5% of the rabbit’s total diet. The other portions should be evenly split between fresh veggies, green leafies and the likes.

Because of the cheap price tag, a lot of pet parents are guilty of going overboard with the Manna Pro Small worlds rabbit feed.

Always limit the dose to ¼ cup a day for small sized rabbits and ½ cup a day to larger sized bunnies. A single bag should easily last you for up to 6 months.

Why I Like Manna Pro Rabbit Feed

Excellent nutritional profile

Alfalfa, Wheat millrun and Rice bran

Essential vitamins and amino acids

Budget pricing

Chewy and soft pellets that rabbits like

Uniform sized pellets prevents cherry picking

Verdict

You cannot beat the pricing and the formula isn’t bad either. Bunnies love it, parents seem to love it too and it has excellent customer reviews. If you are looking for a dry food formula that doesn’t break the bank, go for the Manna Pro Small word rabbit feed.

Buy from AMAZON.COM

The post Manna Pro Rabbit Food: Review by The Experts (2017 Updated) appeared first on Rabbit Expert.

0 notes