reading-time

[reading-time]

Book choice: Human Action: A Treatise on Economics, by Ludwig von Mises (1940)

Human Action: A Treatise on Economics, by Ludwig von Mises (first published in 1940). The Scholar’s edition, published in 1998 by the Ludwig von Mises Institute.

[reading-time]

Book in progress: Very fun Vietnamese and Chinese handicraft toys collection that build fine skills for kids -- “Đồ chơi thủ công dân gian” -- 《民间手工玩具》

Pediatric OT in practice: Very fun Vietnamese and Chinese handicraft toys collection that build fine skills for kids -- “Đồ chơi thủ công dân gian” -- 《民间手工玩具》. Applied pediatric occupational therapy knowledge in home-based and school-based context. A book by Tam Anh Nguyen. [ In progress ]

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[reading-time]

I make a book: A brief introduction into Chinese food.

Bilingual book on Chinese cuisine: “A brief introduction into Chinese food” 《中国菜简介》 . In English and Chinese language. Compiled, translated & edited by Tam Anh Nguyen, October 2021.

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[reading-time]

My home in Hanoi | Nhà tôi ở Hà Nội

RECORD: 

Fireworks on the 60th anniversary of Hanoi Liberation Day (on 10/10/2014)

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[reading-time]

Sanmao’s “Stories of the Sahara”, 《撒哈拉的故事》, 白手成家 Empty hands make home. Tam Anh translated.

       Actually, the one who initially insisted on going to the Sahara Desert was me, not Jose.

　　Later, we stayed on for a long time, was because of Jose, not me. Half of my life, I have drifted through many countries. I have lived in highly civilized societies, have seen it thoroughly, and have tasted enough. I am not unmoved at heart. My way of life is more or less affected by them. But I have never been in a fixed place, or leaving my heart in the city where I live.

　　I don’t remember in which year in the past, I accidentally turned to an American "National Geographic magazine", in that issue, it happened to introduce the Sahara Desert. I only read it once, and I couldn’t explain, for some reason I felt the nostalgia like memories of previous lives, which was inexplicably, without any holding back, handed over to that strange land.

　　When I again returned to Spain to settle down, because the Sahara Desert still has an area of ​​280,000 square kilometers under the possession of Spain, the long-time embraced desire to run to it again one more time obsessed me.

　　I often said, I would go to the desert for a trip, but no one took it to be serious.

　　There were also friends who know me better, and they interpreted my yearning for the desert as seeing through the hard life red dust, self-exiled, and a never-returning-journey -these are all not very correct views.

　　Fortunately, how others judge me, I do not mind at all.

　　When I had arranged time well and ready to go to the desert for a year, apart from my father's encouragement, there was only one friend. He didn't laugh at me, didn't stop me, and didn't drag me down. He quietly packed his luggage, first went to the phosphate mining company in the desert to find job, settled down, and till I went to Africa alone he took good care of me. He knows that I am a stubborn woman who insists on doing her own way, and I will not change my plan.

　　When this man went to the desert to suffer because of love, I had already decided in my heart to be with him to any corner of this world for the whole life.

　　That person is my current husband Jose.

　　This was two years ago.

       After Jose went to the desert, I ended all the trivial matters, said goodbye to noone. Before getting on the plane, I left a letter and rent to the three Spanish girlfriends who rented the same house. I closed the door and came out, closing the way of life I was once familiar with, headed for the unknown desert.

　   When the plane was parked at Ayung Airport in the mobile house, I saw Jose, after three months apart.

　　That day he wore a khaki-earth-colored military-style shirt and long jeans. The arms that hugged me were strong, but his hands were rough, his hair and beard were covered with yellow dust, the wind blew his face red, his lips were chapped, his eyes looked as if being suffered from hidden trauma.

　　I saw him undergo such a drastic change in appearance and facial expression in such a short period of time, and it made me feel shocked.

　　Only then did I think of the life that I was about to face, for me, it has become a major test of fact, and no longer a naive thought that even contains a romantic sentiment in my ideals.

　　Coming out of the airport, my heart beat very fast. I hardly controlled my inner excitement and as-long-as-half-a-life-time nostalgia. Everytime I return to this land, my emotions could not be under my own control.

　　The Sahara Desert, deep in my heart, has been the lover of my dreams for many years!

　　I looked up to see, a lonely gale whimpering on the endless yellow sand. The sky was high, and the ground was thick, strong, and quiet.

　　It was dusk, and the setting sun dyed the desert a bloody red, dreadful and terrifying. In the climate of almost early winter, under the anticipating hot shining sun, the earth turned into a poetic desolation.

　　Jose waited for me quietly, I glanced at him.

　　He said: "Your desert, now you are in its embrace."

　　I nodded, my throat was blocked.

　　"The Stranger, let's go!"

　　Jose called me by this name many years ago, not because Camus' novels were popular at the time, but because "The Stranger" was a very accurate name for me. [*Translator’s note: the author made a reference to the novel by French author Albert Camus, entitled L'Étranger. Albert Camus was a “pied-noir,” a French Algerian of European descent. He was their most famous writer, and won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1957. L'Étranger was Camus’ first novel, published in 1942 and set in the 1930’s. The title literally means “The Stranger,” but is often translated as “The Outsider”, also means “The Foreigner”. The protagonist is Meursault, a man who has never mastered the little lies that the rest of us use daily to simplify our social lives; stubbornly refused to “play the game” (of life), he was marked as an “outsider,” that is, outside societal norms, the Stranger. This status would literally have fatal consequences on him. Meursault seems to be drifting through life, self-absorbed, yet without insight into his condition, under the heat of the desert sun, he seeks some meaning in such a barren life. The young man, however, proclaims that, compared to the uncertainties of religion, he at least has lived in the surety that the life he has lived from moment to moment has been his and his alone, and that the one validating certainty is the death that comes to us all.] 

　　Because in this world, I have never felt that I am a part of all living beings. I often have to run out of the track of ordinary people's lives and do things that others can hardly explain.

　　The airport was empty, and the few people who disembarked had already been gone.

　　Jose took my big suitcase on his shoulders, I carried my backpack and a pillow case in my hand, and followed him walking out.

　   From the airport to the house Jose had rented since half a month ago, it was quite a distance. On the way, because my suitcases and books were very heavy, we walked very slowly, and along the way occasionally there were a few cars passing by, we reached out signalling for a ride, no one stopped. After walking for almost forty minutes, we turned into a slope and reached a hard road. Only then did we see the smoke and other people.

　　Jose said to me in the wind, "Look, this is the suburb of Ayung townlet, our home is down there."

[ To be continued ]

[reading-time]

Sanmao’s “Stories of the Sahara”, 《撒哈拉的故事》, 结婚记 Marriage chronicle. Tam Anh translated.

       One early morning last winter, Jose and I were sitting in a park in Madrid. The weather was very cold that day. I covered myself under the coat from below my eyes, and only stretched out one hand to throw bread crumbs to feed the sparrows. Jose was wearing an old thick jacket and was reading a sailing book.

　　"Sanmao, what are your big plans for next year?" he asked me.

　　"Nothing special, I want to go to Africa after Easter."

　    “Morroco? You have been there, haven’t you?” He asked me again.

　　"I have been to Algeria, next year I want to go to the Sahara Desert."

　　Jose has a great point. Whatever Sanmao does may be crazy behavior in the eyes of others, but it is naturally normal in his eyes. So being with him is also very enjoyable.

　　“How about you?” I asked him.

　　"I'm going sailing in the summer, it has been uneasy finally I had finished studying, and military service, already quite behind." He raised his hand and placed it behind his neck.”

　　"Where's the boat?" I knew he wanted a boat for a long time.

　　"Father Hei Su has a sailing boat for us to go to the Aegean Sea in Greece next year, go diving."

　　I believe in Jose, he always did what he said, has always been like that.

　　"How long are you going to stay in the Sahara? What are you going to do?"

　　"I probably stay there for half a year or a year! I want to know the desert." This wish I’ve already had since I was a child studying geography.

　　"The six of us will go sailing, also counted you in. Will you be able to come back in August?"

　　I pulled the coat off my nose and looked at him excitedly. "I don't understand what's going on on the ship, what kind of work are you assigning me?" I sounded very excited.

　　"You do cooking and photography, besides you can take charge of my money. Will you do?"

        "Of course, I want to join you. Just I'm afraid I won't be able to return from the desert by August. What should I do? I want to do both." I really wanted to have both worlds. [*translator’s note: original phrases were: both catching fish and eating bear paws]

       Jose was a little unhappy, he said loudly: "We have known each other for so long, you are always running around. It was uneasy, finally I had finished my military service, you again want to go alone. When can I be with you?"

　   Jose has rarely complained about me. I glanced at him strangely, and threw the crumbs into the distance. When he spoke loudly, the sparrows were all frightened flying away. "Do you really insist on going to the desert?" He asked me again.

　　I nodded heavily, I clearly knew what I was going to do. "Okay." He said the word angrily, and got back to his book again. Jose usually talks a lot and is very annoying, but he never talks when something really happens. Unexpectedly, in early February of this year, Jose quietly applied for a job (just looking for something to do in the Sahara Desert.) He rolled up his luggage, went to Africa even before I did.

　　I wrote to him: "You really don't have to go to the desert to suffer because of me. Besides, if I go, I will travel everywhere most of the time, and I can't see you often—"

　　Jose wrote back to me: "I have been thinking very clearly, to keep you by my side, only to marry you, otherwise my heart will never be able to subtract this painful feeling. Shall we get married in the summer?" The letter was very plain, but I read it ten times, then stuffed the letter in the pocket of my trousers, went for a walk in the street all night, when I got back I had made up my mind.

　　In mid-April this year, I packed my things, returned my house in Madrid, and came to the Spanish Sahara Desert. That night, Jose lived in the dormitory of the company where he worked. I stayed in Ayong townlet. The distance between the two places was almost a hundred miles away, but Jose came to see me every day.

　　"Okay, we can get married now." He was very happy and radiant. "Not now. Give me three months. I will go and see everywhere. When I come back, we will get married." I was looking for an opportunity to go to West Africa through the desert under the guide of a local Saharawi (meaning residents in the desert).

　　"This I agree with you, but we have to go to the court to ask about the procedures, and you also have to check about naturalization." We have well discussed I would keep two nationalities after marriage.

　　So we went to the local court together to ask how to get married. The secretary is a Spanish gentleman with all white hair. He said: "You want to get married? Well, we haven't never done this procedure before. You know here Sahara people get married according to their own custom. I will look through the law book- -" He read the book and said: "Notarized marriage, ah, here-this, ah, a birth certificate, a single certificate, a residence certificate, a court announcement certificate... This lady's documents must be issued from Taiwan, and then translated and certified by Chinese consulate in Portugal. After that, the certificate will be transferred to the Spanish consulate in Portugal for notarization, and then transferred to the Spanish Ministry of Foreign Affairs for review. After the review is completed, we will announce the certificate for 15 days, and then send it to Madrid for an announcement by the court where your previous household registration is located..."

　   I normally hate filling out forms and going through formalities the most. When I heard Mr. Secretary’s reading, I became annoyed at first, I said to Jose softly, “Look, there are too many formalities, so annoying, do we still get married?”

　　"Yes. Don't talk now!" He was nervous, and then he asked Mr. Secretary: "May I ask how long we can get married?"  

　　"Hey, have to ask yourself! When you have all the documents completed, we can make announcements. The announcements from two places take one month, and the documents should be sent back and forth-I think three months it will be finished." The secretary said slowly, closed his book.  

       When Jose heard that he was very anxious, he wiped his sweat and stammered to Mr. Secretary: "Please help, is it possible to do quickly? I think the sooner we get married, the better, we can't wait—"

　　At this moment, Mr. Secretary put the book on the shelf and quickly glanced at my waist. I was very sensitive and knew right away that he had misunderstood what Jose said, so I quickly said: "Mr. Secretary, to me it doesn't matter quick or slow, it is him who has the problem." As soon as I finished speaking, I realized that this was even more nondescript, so I stopped quickly.

　　Jose twisted my finger hard, and said to Mr. Secretary, "Thank you, thank you, we will do it now, goodbye, goodbye." After finishing speaking, he dragged me like flying clouds down the three storeys of the court like flying clouds. We chuckled and chuckled as we ran, to the outside of the courthouse, we stopped running.

　　"What do you mean I have a problem, what are you talking about! Could it be that I am pregnant." Jose yelled angrily. I laughed so hard that I couldn't answer him.

　   Two or three months passed quickly. During this time, Jose worked hard to make money, and at the same time made furniture, and moved some of his things to my residence every day. I carried my backpack and camera, ran into the tents of many nomads, watched many different and colourful strange customs, wrote down notes, organized slides, made many Saharawi friends, and even started to learn Arabic language. The life was fruitful and happy.

　　Of course, we were most active in applying for the documents needed for marriage. This was the most annoying work, now looking back, I still feel having a high fever.

　　It’s getting hot. I rented a mailbox at the post office because I didn’t have a house number where I lived, everyday I had to walk about an hour to town to check the mailbox. After being here for three months, I have already known most of the people in this small town, especially the post office and the court, because I went there every day, we had become friends already.

　　That day I was sitting in the courthouse again, and it was unbearably hot like in a burning fire. Mr. Secretary said to me: "Okay, finally the Madrid announcement is over, you can get married."

　　"Really?" I couldn't believe that this document war was over.

　　"I have arranged the day for you." The secretary said with a smile.

　   "When?" I quickly asked him.

　　"Tomorrow at six o'clock in the afternoon."

　　"Tomorrow? You said tomorrow?" I didn't seem to believe it, and I wasn't happy either.

　    The old secretary was a bit angry, as if I was a person who is not grateful. He said: "Jose didn't say have to be quick, have to be quick?"

　　"Yes, thank you, we will come tomorrow." I sleepwalked downstairs, and sat on the stone steps of the post office downstairs, looking at the desert in a daze.

　　At this moment, I saw the driver of Jose’s company driving by in a jeep, I ran up to stop him: "Mohammed Shari, are you going to the company? Bring a message to Jose for me, please tell him that he will marry me tomorrow. Tell him to come to town after work."

　      Mohamed Shari scratched his head and asked me strangely: "Don't Mr. Jose know today that he is going to get married tomorrow?"

　　I answered him loudly: "He doesn't know, and I don't know either." The driver listened and looked at me, showing a very scared look, and drove the car crookedly away. I realized that I was saying something wrong again. He must have thought I was going crazy waiting for marriage.

　　Jose didn't wait to get off work, he quickly drove over. "Really tomorrow?" He didn't believe it, and asked as he entered the door.

　　"It's true, let's go, let's telegram home." I pulled him and went out again.

　    "I'm sorry to inform you temporarily. We don't know beforehand that we will get married tomorrow. Please understand--" Jose's telegram was as lengthy as a letter.

　　As for me, I registered with my father's telegram number, I wrote: "Tomorrow marriage Sanmao." Only a few words. I know that my parents must be very conforted and happy when they receive the telegram. For these many years, it has been me this wandering unsettled daughter causing them to suffer. I am very sorry to them.

　  "Hey, what will you wear tomorrow?" Jose asked me.

  　"I don't know yet, just wear anything." I was still thinking.

  　"I forgot to ask for leave, tomorrow I still have to go to work." Jose sounded a little annoyed.

　    "Go, anyway, not until 6 o'clock in the afternoon it’s the time, you get off work an hour earlier, just in time to come back." I thought people getting married can still go to work on that day.

　　"What are we doing now, the telegram has already been sent." He looked dazed that day.    

　  "Go back to make furniture, the table hasn't been nailed yet. My curtains are still half way short." I can't think of why Jose seems to be a little abnormal.

　　"Do we still have to work the night before getting married?" Sounded like , he wanted to celebrate early, get lazy.

　　"Then what do you want to do?" I asked him.

　　"I want to take you to the movies. Tomorrow you won't be my girlfriend anymore."

　　So we ran to the only “five-star” desert cinema to watch a good film "Greek Zorba", which counted as farewell to the days of singles.

　   The next day, when Jose came knocking on the door, I was taking a nap, because I was very tired after carrying a large bucket of fresh water back and forth. Already it was half past five. He entered the door and shouted: "Get up, I have something for you." He sounded very excited, holding a big box in his hands.  

　   I jumped up barefoot, and rushed to grab the box, shouting, "It must be flowers."  

　   "Where the magic to make flowers in the desert! Really." He was a little disappointed I couldn't guess it right.

　　I quickly opened the box, tore off the messy wrapping paper. Wow! A pair of eyes on a skeleton were revealed. I pulled out this unexpected gift. When I looked again, it turned out to be the skull of a camel. The pale bones were very complete, a large row of teeth was grinning at me, the eyes were two big black holes.

　　I was so excited, this thing was really delivered to my heart. I put it on the bookshelf, and exclaimed: "Oh, it's so luxurious, so luxurious." Jose was really the one who understand my soul. "Where did it get it?" I asked him.

　　"Looking for it! I went to almost die looking in the desert, found this complete one, I know you will like it." He was very proud. This was really the best wedding gift. "Hurry up and change clothes, it's too late." Jose looked at his watch and started urging me.

　　I had many good-looking clothes, but normally I rarely wore them. I stretched my head to take a look at Jose. He was wearing a dark blue shirt and his beard was trimmed. Okay, I would also wear blue. I found a long dress of light blue linen cloth. Although not new, it has a simple and elegant flavor. The shoes were still a pair of sandals, with hair down, and wearing a straw hat with a wide brim. There were no flowers. I went to the kitchen and took a handful of coriander and pinned it to the hat. I didn't use a purse, and I had empty hands. Jose looked at me: "Very good, pastoral flavor, so simple but beautiful." So we locked the door and went into the desert.

　　It’s almost forty minutes from where I live to the town. We didn’t have a car, so we had to walk. Under the long yellow sand and boundless and huge sky, there were only two tiny figures of us walking. The surroundings were very lonely, and the desert was really beautiful at that moment.

　　"You may be the first bride to walk to get married." Jose said.

　   "I however want to ride a camel and rush to the town. You think, how majestic it is, but it's a pity." I sighed that I couldn't ride a camel.

　　We have not yet arrived at the court, I heard someone say: "Here they are, here they are." An unknown person jumped up to take a picture.

　   I was startled, asked Jose: "You called someone to take pictures?"

　　"No, probably from the court." He suddenly became nervous.

　　When we walked upstairs, I saw everyone in the court was wearing suits and ties. In comparison, Jose seemed to be someone to come watching the exciting event only.

　　"We are done, Jose, they made it so formal, crazy!" Normally I was most afraid of formal rituals, this time I couldn’t escape.

　　"Just bear it, we will get this marriage done right away." Jose comforted me.

　   Mr. Secretary wore a black suit and a silk bow tie. "Come, come, this way." He didn't give me time to wipe the sweat from my face, already dragged me into the auditorium. Looking at it again, the small auditorium was full of acquaintances, and everyone was smiling, looking at Jose and me. My God! How come everyone knows.

　   The judge was very young, about the same age as us, and wore a black satin court suit.

　　"Sit here, please sit down." We were swayed like puppets. Jose's sweat was dripping on his beard.

　　We sat down, and Mr. Secretary began to speak: "Under Spanish law, there are three things you must abide by after marriage. Now I will read them. First: After marriage, both parties must live together—"

　　When I heard it, this one was just nonsense! After sliding the world, I started to smirk all by myself. I didn't hear what he said later. Later, I heard the judge call my name-"Ms. Sanmao." I quickly answered him: "What?" Those who watched the ceremony laughed. "Please stand up." I stood up slowly. "Mr. Jose, please stand up too." What a fuss, why didn't he say: "Please you both stand up." It would also save some time of suffering.

　　At this moment, I suddenly noticed that the young judge's hand holding the paper was shaking, and I lightly touched Jose and asked him to look at it. The first time there was someone got marriage notarized in this desert courthouse, the judge was even more nervous than we were.

　　"Sanmao, are you willing to be Jose's wife?" the judge asked me.

　  I know I should answer-"Yes". Didn’t know why I however answered—"Okay!"

　  The judge laughed. Again asked Jose, he said loudly: "Yes."

　  We have both answered the question. The judge seemed not know what to say next, so the three of us stood quietly. Finally, the judge suddenly said: "Well, you are married. Congratulations, congratulations."

　　As soon as I heard that the restraining ceremony was over, I immediately felt lively, I pulled the hat down to make a fan. Many people came up to shake hands with us, the old secretary was very happy, as if he were our parents. Suddenly someone said, "Hey, where's your ring?"　

      I though, right! Where's the ring? Turned to find Jose, he was already in the corridor, I called him: "Hey, did you bring the ring?"

　  Jose was very happy and answered me loudly: "Here." Then he took out one of his, put one onto his hand for himself, and went to chase the judge, yelling: "Judge, my household registration book! I want a household registration book!" He completely forgot to wear a ring to me.

　　We completed the marriage formalities, there was no decent restaurant in the desert, and we didn’t plan a budget to treat guests either. Everyone was all gone. Only left the two of us, didn’t know what to do.

　　"Shall we go to the National Hotel to stay there for a day?" Jose asked me.

　   "I'd rather go home and cook for myself. Staying for one day in such a kind of hotel, the expenses we can buy food for a week." I don't advocate waste.

　　So we went through the sandy roads back home.

　　There was a big cake outside the locked door, we opened the door to come in, took off the cake box, there was a note dropped off — happy wedding — it was from a lot of colleagues of Jose, I was very touched, in the desert it's indeed so much happy to have fresh cream cakes. What’s more valuable was that on the cake there was actually surprisingly a bridegroom couple dressed in ceremonial suit. The bride in white gauze had the eyes that could even open and close.

　  With a childlike innocence, I pulled up the two dolls and yelled, "The doll is mine."

　 Jose said: "Originally it was yours! Could I still grab this." So, he cut a piece of cake for me to eat, while wearing a ring for me, then our wedding was really over. That was how I got married.

[ End of story ]

[reading-time]

Sanmao’s “Stories of the Sahara”, 《撒哈拉的故事》, 爱的寻求 A seek for love. Tam Anh translated.

     Near the little house where I live, about 7 or 8 months ago opened a small convenient store. Inside they sell everything. This makes it a lot more convenient for us who are residing here far from the downtown, I no longer need to carry big bags, small bags walking a long way under the scorching sun.

　　I go to this store about four or five times a day. Sometimes while cooking, I also flying-like rush to the store to buy sugar and flour. It is always a rush in time. However, sometimes many neighbours were buying things. Also, I couldn’t find the money. It could not be running back and forth in ten seconds as I want. It's so much not suitable for someone who is impatient like me. After shopping there for a week, I suggested to the young Saharawi man in charge of the store that it is better to keep an account. Every night I write down what I bought during the day, and pay it all when the amount reaches a thousand yuan or so. The young man said he had to ask his brother before answering me. The next day he told me that they welcome me to keep accounts, they can’t write, so he gave me a big book and I unilaterally wrote down what I owed for buying things. So since then I have known Shalun.

       Shalun is always alone in the store on weekdays. His elder brother has another career, so only occasionally comes to the store briefly. Every time I go to the store to settle my account and pay, Shalun always insists that he doen't need to double check the accounts I made. If I am so polite with him, he can’t make statement, face and ears all turned red, so I later didn't insist on double-checking the accounts any more.

　   Because he trusted me, I was very careful in my calculations, didn't want any mistake that could make Shalun to be blamed for. This store does not belong to him, but he seems to be very responsible. He does not go to downtown after closing the store at night. He always sits quietly on the ground and looks at the dark sky. He is very dull and honest. After opening the store for almost a month, he seems to have not made any friends.

　  One afternoon, I again went to his store to settle account. After paying the money, I was about to leave. At that time, Shalun was playing with my account book in his hand. It didn’t look like he had forgotten to return it to me. It looked like he had something to say.

　　I waited for him for two seconds, saw that he was still that way unspoken, so I took the account book from his hand and said to him: "Okay, thank you, see you tomorrow!" Then I turned and walked out.

　　He suddenly raised his head and called to me, "Mrs. Quero——" I stopped and waited for him to speak, but he stopped speaking, his face flushed red.

      "What's the matter?" I asked him kindly, so as not to make him more nervous.　

      "I think—I want to ask you to write an important letter." He didn't dare to look up at me as he spoke.

　　"Yes! To whom?" I asked him, he was really so shy.

      "To my wife." His voice was so low that could hardly hear him.

      "You are married?" I was very surprised, because Shalun lives and eats in this small shop. There is no father and no mother, and his brother's family treats him very coldly, never knowing that he has a wife.

　   He nodded again, so nervous as to reveal a big secret to me. "Where is your wife? Where is she? Why haven’t you got her here?" I knew his thinking, he himself refused to talk about it, but wanted me to ask him.

　   He still didn't answer, looked around to make sure that no one came in. He suddenly pulled out a colourful photo from under the counter and stuffed it in my hand, then lowered his head.

　　It is a photo with frayed corners on all sides. It shows an Arab woman in European clothes. The facial features are very good, the eyes are big, but the face that is not young, covered with a lot of cosmetics, a face of red and green make-up. Her dressing is a large floral shirt with a full chest and sleeveless on the upper body, underneath is a very short apple green mini skirt that is no longer popular, with a copper chain belt on the waist, and a pair of tall yellow high heels under the fat legs. The laces were tied to the knees in a crisscross pattern. Part of her black hair is combed into a bird's nest, and the other part is draped behind her shoulders. She was covered with cheap jewellery and used a black leather bag with shiny plastic leather.

　　Just looking at this picture is dazzling and can't stand it. If a real person comes, it will be even more exciting with the adding flavor of fragrance.

　   Look at Shalun. He is eagerly waiting for my reaction to the photo. I can’t bear to let him down, but I can’t find a proper compliment for this “Arabian artificial flower”, so I only slowly put the photo back on the counter.

　　“Very fashionable, so different from the Saharawi girls here. "I only have to say so, not to hurt him, nor to be ignorant of my conscience.

　　Shalun was very happy to hear me say this, immediately he said, "She is very fashionable and beautiful. No girl here can compare to her."

　　I smiled and asked him: "Where?"

　　"She's in Monte Carlo now." He said of his wife as if he were talking about a goddess.

　　"You have been to Monte Carlo?" I suspected I had heard it wrong.

　   "I didn't. We got married in Algeria last year," he said.

      "Married, why didn't she follow you to come back to the desert?"

　   Being asked, his face faded and his eager expression disappeared. "Sayida said, tell me to come back first, and in a few days she with her brother will come to the Sahara. As a result, it turns out—"

　   “Has not come. " I took the words for him, he nodded and looked at the ground. "How long has it been?" "I asked again.

　   "It's been over a year."

      “Why didn't you write to her to ask early? "

　　"I—" he said as if his throat was stuck. "Who shall I talk to--" He sighed.

　　I thought to myself, why are you however willing to talk to me a person of no concern? "Take out the address we see." I decided to help him.

　　The address was taken out, indeed it was Monaco, Monte Carlo, not Algeria.

　　"Where did you get this address?" I asked him.

　    "I went to Algeria to find my wife once, three months ago." He hesitated.

　　"Oh, why didn't you speak early? You didn't speak clearly, so you went there to look for her."

　　"She was not there, her brother said she has gone, he gave me this photo and address, told me to go home."

　　Traveling thousands of miles, just for that cheesy woman in the photo? I looked at Sharon's loyal face and signed.

　　"Shalun, let me ask you, how much did you give to the bride when you got married?" Suddenly I thought of the customs in the desert.

　　"A lot." He lowered his head again, as if my question hurt his wound.　

       "How much?" I asked softly.

　　"More than 300,000." (More than 200,000 Taiwan dollars.)

　    I was taken aback, and said suspiciously: "You can't have that much money, talk nonsense!"

     "Yes, yes, my father left for me when he died the year before, you can ask my brother." Shalun stubbornly explained.

　  "Okay, let me guess next. You took the money from your father to Algeria last year to buy goods, wanted to ship them back to Sahara to sell. But the goods were not bought. You married Shayida in the photo and gave the money to her. You just came back, she never came. Am I right?"

　　A very simple story revealing the simple truth.

　  "Yes, I guessed it right, how does it look like you saw it all?" He was actually a little happy because I guessed it right.

　 "You really don't understand?" I opened my eyes wide, very strange.

    I don't understand why she refuses to come here, so please write to her and tell her, I—I—" He was suddenly emotional, held his head with his hands. "I have nothing now. "He murmured.

　　I quickly turned my gaze away, seeing this honest man revealing such a true feelings, I was very moved at heart. Since the very first time I saw him, he has been quietly exuding a sense of loneliness and sadness. Just similar to the people who endured great suffering in the novels of the old Russian era.

　 "Come on, write a letter, I'm free now." I cheered up and said.

    At this moment, Shalun begged me softly: "Please don't tell my brother about this letter."

　　“I won't, don't worry." I opened the account book to write the letter.

　　"Okay, you talk, I write, talk then..." I urged him again.　

      "Shaida, my wife--" Shalun spit out these words tremblingly, and stopped again.

　　"Not good, I can only write Spanish, how does she read the letter?" Knowing clearly that this liar woman would never read this letter, nor would she admit to be his wife, I didn't want to write the letter anymore.

　　"It's okay, please write, she will find someone to read the letter, please..." Shalun seemed to be afraid I would again refuse to write, hastily begged me.

　　"Okay! Let's go on!" I lowered my head to write again.

　　"Since our farewell last year, I have been thinking of you. I used to go to Algeria to find you—" I could see that if Shalun had no great love for this woman, he would not overcome his shyness, being in front of a stranger stating the enthusiasm from the bottom of his heart.

　　"Alright! You come to sign." I tore the letter from the account book, and Shalun would write his name in Arabic.

　　Shalun signed the name very carefully, sighed, and said hopefully: "Now I just have to wait for the reply."

      I glanced at him, didn't know how to say, rather no sound.

　　"Can I use your post office mailbox number for the return address? Mr. Jose will not trouble you?"

　　"Don't worry, Jose doesn't care. Okay, I'll write the return address for you." I initially didn't think of leaving a return address.

　　"Now I will send it myself.”

　　Shalun asked me for stamps, closed the shop, and rushed to town.

       From the second day after the letter was sent, this Shalun jumped up whenever he saw me entering the store. If I shook my head, the disappointed expression on his face was immediately revealed. In this way, he has already started to suffer from waiting for the letter. How can he live in the future? Again one month has passed, I was very headache because of Shalun's silent entanglement. I stopped going to his store to buy things. I didn't know how to tell him, no reply letter, no reply letter—— give up then. I didn’t go to his shop. He every day after having closed the shop then stood quietly outside my window without knocking, waiting till I saw him, told him there was no reply letter, he would only gently thank me, slowly walked back to the shop, sat on the ground outside and blankly stared at the sky, like that stared for hours.

　　After a long time, once I opened the mailbox, there were a few letters to me, also there was a notice from the post office, asking me to go there.

　  "What is it?" I asked the post office guy.

　　"A registered letter, to your mailbox, what Shalun-Hamida, is it your friend, or is it sent by mistake?"

　　"Ah—" I took the letter sent from Monaco, screamed out in surprise, my whole body erect. I grabbed the letter and walked quickly on the way home.

　   I totally miscalculated this matter. She is not a liar. She has written a letter, even a registered letter. Shalun must be so overjoyed beyond any imagination then.

　　"Read it, read it!"

　　Shalun closed the shop while saying, his body was trembling, his eyes were glowing like a lunatic.

　　I opened the letter to see, it was in French, I honestly apologized to Shalun.

　　"It's French—" I bit my finger.

　　When Shalun heard this, he was desperate. "It's for me, right!" He asked softly, afraid that if loudly, this beautiful dream will wake up.      

　　"It's for you, she said she loves you." I can only understand this one sentence.

　　"Guess it roughly, please, what else did she say?" Shalun looked like a lunatic.　

      "Can't guess, wait until Jose gets off work then."

      I walked home, Shalun followed straight behind me like a zombie. I had to tell him to come in and sit down and wait for Jose.

　　Sometimes Jose is angry with his colleagues when doing things outside, when he comes back, his face can be very fierce, I am used to it and I don’t care about it.

　　That day he came back very early, when he saw Shalun there, he only nodded coldly, and went to change his shoes without saying a word.

       Shalun held the letter in his hand, waited for Jose to pay attention to him again, but Jose ignored him and went to the bedroom again. Finally, he came out again, wearing shorts, and went to the bathroom again.

       Shalun at this moment had borne his own nervous waiting enough. He suddenly said nothing, holding the letter, he knelt at Jose's feet with a snap, as if he was about to go up and hug Jose's leg. I was in the kitchen, seeing this scene I was shocked. Shalun had gone too far. I was angry with myself having brought this madman back making such a mess in our little home.

　　Jose was wandering in his own world, suddenly he was awaken by Shalun kneeing in front of him, he was scared to half death, shouted: "What is this? What is this? Sanmao, come quickly save me—"

　　I went to pull Shalun hard, and finally calmed him and Jose. I was already so tired and discouraged, I just wanted Shalun to go out quickly to give me peace. After reading the letter, Jose told Shalun: "Your wife said that she loves you too. She can't come to Sahara now, because she has no money, please try to raise 100,000 dollars and send to her brother in Algeria. Her brother will use this money to buy a plane ticket for her to come to you, never to be separated again."

        "What? See her big agenda, again asking for money—" I yelled.　

       Shalun however wasn't disappointed at all, he just asked Jose over and over again: "Shaida said she would come? She would come?" His eyes were as happy as in a dream.  

　　"Money, no problem, easy to handle, easy to handle—" he muttered to himself.

　　"Forget it, Shalun--" I saw that there was no use to persuade him wake up from his dream.

      “This, I'll give it to you." Shalun looked dazzled by joy, took off the only silver ring on his hand, and put it into Jose's hand.

　　"Shalun, I can't take it, you keep it for yourself." Jose put it back to his finger for him.

　　"Thank you, you helped me a lot." Sharon was so much grateful, he left.

       "What the hell is this Mrs. Shalun after all? Shalun is crazy for her." Jose said inexplicably.

　     "What wife, clearly she's a bitch!" This fake flower is only worthy of being called like that.

         Since receiving this letter, Shalun has done everything possible to find a part-time job, during the day managing the shop, at night baking bread in a big bakery in the town, he worked hard day and night, only around 5 to 8 in the morning he could sleep.

　　After half a month, he quickly became haggard. He lost a lot of weight, his eyes were bloodshot, his hair was messy and dirty, and his clothes were creped like rags. But he talked more and he was full of hope for life when he talked. However I did not know why I felt that he was still suffering a lot in his heart.

　　After a while, I found that he also had quit smoking.

　　"To save every penny, it doesn't matter not smoking," he said.

       "Shalun, you have been working hard day and night, how much did you save already?" I asked him.

       Two months later, he was already a skeleton.

　　"10,000 yuan, in two months have deposited 10,000 yuan, soon, soon, you don't have to worry for me." He was incoherent, lacked of sleep for a long time, his nerves were already extremely weak.

　　I have been thinking in my heart, what magic Shayida has to make a man who has only been with her for three days love her so, that he can't forget the happiness she has given.

　　After a long while, Shalun was still dying of his nerves. Would a person go on like this till death?

　　One night, Shalun was too tired. He put his hands on the roasted red iron sheet, and his hands were severely burned. In the daytime work in the shop, his brother did not allow him to close the shop and rest.

　　I watched him when selling things, he used two wrists to hold things and sell them to customers, busy around, took this dropped that. His brother came, looked on with cold eyes, he was even more nervous. The tomato fell all on the ground, when he went to pick them up, his fingers were of pus, so painful that he could not give any strength, sweat fell down in big drops.

　　Poor Shalun, when could he be relieved from his crazy desire for Shaida? Normally already lonely and miserable him now looked even more lonely and miserable.

　　Since his hands were scalded, Shalun has come to apply ointment every night before going to work in the bakery. Only in our home can he reveal the secrets in his heart. He has completely forgotten the misery Shayida gave him in the past. As long as he saves an extra dollar, his dream of happiness will be closer.

　　That night he came back as usual, we asked him to eat with us. He said his hands were inconvenient, so he didn’t eat anything at all.

       "I'll be fine soon, my hands are going to be scarred, I may be able to toast today, Shayida she--" He began to have the same dream again.

　　This time, Jose was very pitiful and gentle and listened to Shalun's words. I was taking out the cotton gauze to change Shalun's dressing. When he heard him talk again and again, I felt annoyed and said to Shalun: " Shaida, Shaida, Shaida, talk about her all the time, do you really know or not, Shaida is a bitch."

　　I blurted out these words and couldn't take them back. Jose suddenly raised his head to stare at Shalun, there was a dead silence in the room that was about to freeze.

　　 I thought Shalun would jump up and pinch me to death, but he didn't. What I said to him knocked him down like a big stick, and he slowly turned his head back and forth to gaze at me, he wanted to say, but couldn’t say a word. I also gazed at his miserable face now as slim as of a ghost.

　　There was no angry expression on his face. He raised his scalded hands, looked at them, and looked at them. Tears burst out suddenly. He didn't say a word, rushed out of the door, into the dark wilderness he ran away.

　　"Do you think he understands that he was deceived?" Jose asked me softly.

      "From the beginning to the present, he has been clear in his heart, but he refuses to wake up, he refuses to save himself, who can save him." I am sure of Shalun's mood. 　

     "Shaida fascinated him with enchantment," Jose said.

　 "What Shayida can fascinate him is only lust, but this Shalun must interpret Shayida's body as a representative of all the things he lacks in this life. What he wants is love, affection, home, and warmth. Such a restrained, lonely and young heart, once came across a little love, even if it is a fake one, he of course had also regardless of everything, gone to grasp it desperately."

      Jose said nothing, turned off the light, and sat in the dark.

      The next day we thought Shalun would not come, but he came again. I helped him apply ointment on the hand, and said to him, "Okay! Tonight it won’t be painful anymore when you toast. In a few days, all the skins will be well freshly recovered."

　　Shalun was very quiet and didn't speak much. When he went out, he seemed to have something to say, but didn't say anything. When he walked to the door, he suddenly turned around and said, "Thank you!"　

      There was a strange feeling in my heart, but I replied: "It’s all right. Don't be crazy again, go quickly, go to work."

　　He also gave me a weird smile. I closed the door and felt like something was wrong. Shalun never smiled!

　　On the third morning, I opened the door to take out the rubbish, while opening the door, seeing two policemen coming up.

　　"Excuse me, are you Mrs. Quero?"

　　"Yes, I am." I said to myself, Shalun was finally dead. 　

       "There is a Shalun Hamida—"

　　"He is our friend." I said quietly.

　　"Do you know where he could probably go?"

　　"He?" I asked them back.

　　"Last night he took the money for purchasing goods from his brother's store, also took the account from the bakery, and escaped..."

　　"Oh—" I did not expect Shalun made such a choice.

    　“Did he say anything weird recently, or said where he is going? "The policeman asked me.

　　"No, if you know Shalun, you will know, Shalun rarely speaks."

　　After sending off the police, I closed the door and went to sleep.

　　"How do you think Shalun could afford to leave this desert? This is the root of the Saharawi people." Jose said during the meal.

　　"He can't come back anyway, police is looking for him everywhere."

　　After eating, we sat on the rooftop. There was no wind that night. Jose asked me to turn on the light, when the light came on, a group of flying insects immediately rushed over, and they kept spinning around the light, as if the light was the only thing they recognized in life. The two of us looked at these little flying insects.

　　"What are you thinking?" Jose said.

　　"I am thinking, when the moths are rushing to the fire, they must be extremely happy."

[ End of story ] 

[reading-time]

Sanmao’s “Stories of the Sahara”, 《撒哈拉的故事》, 娃娃新娘 Child bride, Tâm Anh translated.

　　The first time I saw Guka was at this time last year. She and her family lived in a large house near my little house. She was the eldest daughter of police officer Handi. At that time, Guka wore thick braids, a long dress with large African flowers, barefoot, no veil, and did not wrap her body in cloth. Often hearing she called out to drive her sheep outside my house, with a clear and lively voice; seems to be a happy little girl. Later, when she came to study with me, I asked her how old she was. She said, "This you have to ask Handi. We Sahara women don't know how old we are." Neither she nor her brothers and sisters call Handi father; they called his name directly. Handi told me that Guka was ten years old, and at the same time he asked me: "You are probably a teenager too? Guka is very close to you." I couldn't answer his ridiculous question, so I looked at him with a smile.

　　More than half a year has passed, and I have become very good friends with the Handi family. We make tea and drink together almost every day. One day when we were drinking tea, only Handi and his wife Gebo were in the room. Handi suddenly said, "My daughter is about to get married. Could you please find some good time to tell her.”I took a sip of tea and asked him with difficulty, "Do you mean Guka?" He said, "Yes, 10 days after Ramadan will be the marriage." Ramadan is the Muslim month of Ramadan, which is about to begin by then.

　　We drank another cup of tea in silence, and finally I couldn’t help but ask Handi: “Don’t you think Guka is still too young? She is only ten years old.” Handi said disapprovingly, “What little, my wife was only 8 years only when getting married to me." I understood that is their Sahara custom. I could not criticize this matter with too subjective eyes, so I stopped talking. "Please tell Guka, she doesn't know yet." Guka's mother begged me again. "Why don't you yourself tell her?" I found this weird, asked them. "How can this kind of thing be straightforward?" Handi answered me bluntly. I think they are really pedantic sometimes.

　　The next day, after finishing the arithmetic class, I asked Guka to stay and make tea over charcoal fire. "Guka, it's your turn this time." I said while handing her the tea. "What?" she asked me inexplicably. "Fool, you are getting married." I said straightforwardly. She was obviously surprised, her face flushed suddenly, and she asked in a low voice, "When?" I said, "Ten days after Ramadan, do you know who it is probably?" She shook her head, put down her teacup and said nothing, she left. This is the first time I have seen her look worried.

       After another period of time, I went to downtown to buy things; on the way I came across Guka’s brother and another young man. He introduced him: “Abudi is a policeman, a subordinate of Handi, my good friend, also Guka’s future husband." I heard that it was Guka's fiancé, so I looked at him deliberately. Abudi is not dark, he is tall and handsome, speaks politely, and has gentle eyes, giving a very good first impression. When I went back, I went to find Guka and said to her, "Don't worry! Your fiance is Abudi, very young and beautiful, not a rude person, Handi did not wrongly pick for you." Hearing my words, Guka was very shy, lowered her head, keep quiet. But from the look of her eyes, it could be seen that she had accepted the fact of marriage.

　  In Sahara custom, dowry is a very large income for parents when they give their daughters in marriage. In the past, there were no coins in the desert. The dowry requested by the bride’s side was counted by flocks of goats, camels, cloth, slaves, flour, sugar, tea... and so on. Now that it is more civilized, the list they issued is still these things, but in equivalent banknotes.

　  On the day Guka's betrothal gift was delivered, Jose was invited to come for tea. I, was a woman, had to stay at home. Less than an hour later, Jose came back and said to me: "That Abudi gave Handi 200,000 Western dollars. I really didn't expect Guka to be worth so much." (200,000 Western dollars is more than 130,000 Taiwanese dollars.) "This is simply human trafficking!" I said disapprovingly, and somehow silently a bit envied Guka. When I got married, not even a goat I had earned for my parents.

　　Within a month, Guka's dress also changed. Handi bought several pieces of fabric for her, the colors were nothing but black and blue. Because the material was badly dyed, the color faded to the skin. When Guka wrapped herself in a dark blue cloth, her whole body became blue, and that made another atmosphere. Although she is still barefoot, she has put on gold and silver bracelets on her feet, her hair started to be tied up, her body is coated with pungent spices, mixed with the strange smell of not taking a bath all the time, it makes people feel that she is indeed a Sahara woman already.

　　On the last day of Ramadan, Handi had his two young sons circumcised, I naturally ran to see what was going on. At that time, Guka already rarely came out. I went to see her in her room. There was still only one dirty torn mat on the ground. The only new thing was Guka's clothes. I asked her, "What do you take with you after getting married? No pot or new stove?!" She said, "I won't go, Handi let me stay." That was out of my expectation. "How about your husband?" She said: "Also move in." I really envied her. "How long can you stay before moving out?" I asked her. "The custom is we can stay up to six years before moving out." No wonder Handi asked for that much money as dowry. It turns out that the son-in-law lived in family-in-law’s home after marriage.

　  According to the custom, Guka had to leave home the day before her marriage, and the groom would take her back on the day of her marriage. I gave Guka a fake jade bracelet as a gift, which she had always asked me for in the past. That afternoon, before her leaving home, Guka's aunt came. She was a very old Sahara woman. Guka sat in front of her and began to be dressed up. Her hair was put down and braided into more than 30 very thin braids, and a small pile of wigs was placed on top of her head, just like the head of a royal palace lady in ancient China. Each braid is woven with colorful beads, the top of the head is also covered with shiny fake jewelry, and there is no cosmetics on the face. After combing her hair, Guka’s mother brought in new clothes.

　  After Guka had put on the big white skirt with many pleats, her upper body was wrapped in black cloth, her already chubby figure became more swollen at this time. "So fat!" I sighed. Her aunt replied: "Fat, good-looking, need to be fat." After putting on her clothes, Guka sat quietly on the ground, her face was very beautiful, full head with jewels also gave this dim room a radiance.

　  "Okay, let's go!" Guka's aunt and cousin took her out. She will stay at her aunt's house for one night and will not be able to come back until tomorrow. At this moment, I suddenly remembered something. Hey, Guka had not taken a bath. Wouldn't she take a bath even before getting married? On the day of the wedding, Handi’s home changed a little. The dirty straw mats were gone, the goats were driven out, a killed camel was placed at the gate, and there were many red Arab carpets in the lobby of the room, the most interesting was a goat-skin drum in the corner of the house. This drum seemed to be at least a hundred years old.

　  At dusk, the sun was setting on the horizon, and the vast desert was dyed a bloody red. At this time, the drum was sounded, and its sound was very melancholy, monotonous, and spread far away. If it hadn't been known in advance that it was a wedding, this mysterious rhythm would be a bit scary. I was with hands wearing my sweater, legs walked towards the house of Handi, at the same time imagined, I was running into the beautiful Arabian Nights tale.

　 When I walked into the house, the atmosphere was not beautiful anymore. In the hall, a large group of Sahara men were sitting, all was smoking. The air was terrible. This Abudi was also huddled among these many people. If it wasn’t that I had seen him before, I really couldn't see him of any resemblance to a groom tonight.

　  In the corner of the room sat a woman who was as black as charcoal. She was the only woman sitting in the group of men. She did not cover her head, but had a large piece of black cloth on her. She looked up, focusing on drumming with much strength, after some tens of times drumming she stood up, shook her body, screamed in her mouth, the sound was extremely primitive, just like the Indians in North America, she looked the most outstanding in the room. "Who is she?" I asked Guka's brother. "Is a performer invited from my grandmother’s place. She is famous for playing drums." "What a great performer." I exclaimed.

　  At this moment, again came to sit in the room three elderly women, they began to follow the sound of the drums singing a song without ups and downs, the tune was like crying, and all the men clapped their hands to the tune of the song. Because I am a woman, I could only watch all this from the window. All the young women were crowded outside the window, but their faces were completely covered, only their big beautiful eyes were exposed.

　   After watching it for almost two hours, it was already dark outside, the drums rhythm remained the same, and the clapping and singing were also the same. I asked Guka's mother, "It has to go on like this till what time?" She said, "Morning, you go home to sleep then!" When I left for home, I again and again told Guka's little sister not forget to come wake me up at early morning when it’s time to getting the bridegroom home.

　 The desert at 3 o'clock in the morning was still shivering cold. Guka's brother was talking with Jose on the camera. When I put on my coat and came out, Guka's brother said disapprovingly: "She wants to go too?" I hastily begged him to let me come along, he finally seemed agreed. Women here always have no place.

　  The street where we live was full of jeeps, both new and old. Looked on the scene, can be seen Handi has a bit of prestige among the people. Jose and I got on a welcoming car. This large row of cars kept honing the horn spinning around on the sand, the men were primitively yelling heading towards Guka's aunt's house.

　  It is said that the custom in the past was to ride camels, fire the guns, and go to get the bridegroom in the tent. Now the jeeps have replaced the camels and the horns have replaced the guns, but the noise is still the same.

　  Most stirring up the atmosphere must be seeing the getting the bridegroom. Abudi got out of the car, followed a crowd of young fellows rushed into the room where Guka was sitting. Without saying hello to anyone, he grabbed Guka’s arm and dragged her out. Everyone was laughing, only Guka lowered her head and was struggling. Because she was very fat, Abudi’s friends also went up to help drag her. At this moment, she began to cry. I don’t know whether she was really crying or pretending, but seeing this group of people grab her so rudely like that, made people extremely touched. I bit my lower lip to see how the farce ended, although I was already angry.

　  At this moment, Guka was already outside the door. She suddenly reached out and grabbed Abudi's face. She grabbed him. Several blood stains appeared on his face. Abudi did not show weakness, he twisted Guka's finger with his hand. At this moment, all the surroundings fell silent, only the short cry from Guka's mouth echoed in the night.

　　While they were fighting, Guka was dragged to the jeep. I was very nervous and shouted at Guka: "Fool, get in the car, you can't beat it." Guka's brother smiled and said to me: "Don't be nervous, it's custom. No struggle when getting married, after the event people will laugh. Beating hard like this, is a good woman."  

　　"If have to fight hard against, it’s better not to get married." I sighed. "A bit later enter the bridal chamber she will have to cry out too. You wait and see. It’s very interesting." Really it was interesting, but I don't like this way of getting married.

　　Finally returned to Guka's house, it was already five o'clock in the morning. Handi had hidden himself outside, but Guka’s mother, siblings, relatives and friends were not asleep. We were invited into the hall to sit with Abudi’s relatives and friends, and began to have tea and camel meat. Guka has been sent to another small room to sit alone.

　  After eating a bit, the drums were sounded again, the men began to clap and moan again. All night not sleeping, I was really so tired, but I couldn't bear to leave. "Sanmao, you go home to sleep, I watch and will tell you when back." Jose said to me. I thought for a while, the most exciting has not come yet, I will not go home.

　　The singing and clapping were until dawn, we saw Abudi stand up, when he stood up, the drums stopped immediately, everyone looked at him, and his friends began to laugh at him boredly.

　　When Abudi walked to Guka’s room, I became very nervous and felt uncomfortable for some reason. I thought of what Guka’s brother said to me— “enter the bridal chamber she will have to cry out too—" I felt people waiting outside, including me, was all a good jerk, and the strange thing was that no one changes it under the excuse of customs.

　　Abudi pulled the curtains and went in for a long time. I had been sitting in the hall with my head down. For like centuries, I heard Guka—"Ah—" crying like a cry, and then there was no sound. Although the custom required her to scream, the scream was so painful, so true, so helpless and long, I sat quietly, and my eyes began to moisten.

　  "Think about it, she is just a ten-year-old kid, cruel!" I said to Jose angrily. He looked up at the ceiling, unable to answer a word. We were the only two outsiders present that day.

　  When Abudi walked out of the room with a white cloth stained with blood, his friends began to call out, in an indescribable ambiguity. In their concept, the first night of marriage is just a blatant use of violence to seize the virginity of a little girl.

　　I felt disappointed and ridiculous about the end of the wedding ceremony. I stood up and walked out without saying goodbye to anyone.

　　The wedding was celebrated for a total of six days. During these six days, every day at 5 o'clock in the afternoon, guests would go to Handi’s home for tea and dinner, while singing and drumming until midnight. Because their show looked the same every day, I didn’t go anymore. On the fifth day, another little girl of Handi came to call me. She said, "Guka is looking for you, why don’t you come." I had no choice but to change clothes and went to see Guka.

　　During the six-day celebration, Guka, following the custom, was isolated in a small room, guests were not allowed to see her, only the groom could go in and out. Because I am a foreigner, I went to Guka's house, no matter what the situation was, I opened the curtain and went in.

　　The light in the room was very dim, the air was very turbid. Guka sat on a pile of blankets in the corner. She was very happy to see me, climbed up to kiss my cheek, and said, "Sanmao, don't go."

　　"I'm not going, I'll get something for you to eat." I ran out and grabbed a large piece of meat in for her to chew.

      "Sanmao, do you think like this I will soon have babies?" she asked me softly.

      I did not know how to answer her. Seeing her chubby face after five days had become so thin that her eyes were already sunken, I twitched in my heart and looked at her blankly. "Could you give me medicine? That kind of medicine that prevents having children?" She hastily begged me in a low voice. I could not look away, fixedly looked at her ten-year-old face. "Well, I'll give it to you, don't worry, this is the secret between the two of us." I patted the back of her hand lightly, "Now you can sleep for a while, the wedding ceremony is over."

[ End of story ]

[reading-time]

Travel to China west region 走进中国西部地区

Travel to China west region 走进中国西部地区. Photobook by Tam Anh Nguyen. 

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https://www.canva.com/design/DAEpbJYvPEE/iW3wOYxtDn7qEc18W1Pbeg/view?utm_content=DAEpbJYvPEE&utm_campaign=designshare&utm_medium=link&utm_source=publishsharelink

MY ADVENTURE BOOK: 

Road trip record February 2012

https://www.canva.com/design/DAEpm8j_c-o/F9xrbgZk27kaiadPSKmwrA/watch?utm_content=DAEpm8j_c-o&utm_campaign=designshare&utm_medium=link&utm_source=publishsharelink

[reading-time]

Visits to Beijing. Bốn lần đến với Bắc Kinh.

Visits to Beijing. Bốn lần đến với Bắc Kinh. Photobook by Tam Anh Nguyen.

[1]

https://www.canva.com/design/DAEi2yZBhXE/QzOqqXIppiXNOA9CV_bz3Q/view?utm_content=DAEi2yZBhXE&utm_campaign=designshare&utm_medium=link&utm_source=publishsharelink

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[3]

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[4]

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[reading-time]

《细说江南园林》，孙旭著。当代中国出版社，2009. 第十一章： 以瘦为美 - 瘦西湖 Chương 11: Dĩ Sấu Vi Mĩ – Sấu Tây Hồ. Bản dịch  “Chi tiết các viên lâm ở Giang Nam”, tác giả Tôn Húc. Tâm Anh dịch

Sấu Tây Hồ nằm ở ngoại ô Tây Bắc thành phố Dương Châu, vốn tên là Bảo Chướng Hà, là một đoạn sông ngoài cửa bắc thành cũ Dương Châu (từ Dã Xuân Viên đến Trùng Cương Bình Sơn Đường), thời Tùy Đường là nhánh sông xả lũ của thành Dương Châu. Sấu Tây Hồ là tên gọi được đặt vào thời nhà Thanh. Sấu Tây Hồ tổng chiều dài khoảng 5 km, nhánh sông xinh đẹp vừa dài vừa hẹp này, chỗ rộng nhất gần 100m, chỗ “sấu (gầy)” nhất là Cầu Xuân Ba. Hai bên bờ được xây dựng rất nhiều cảnh đẹp, khiến người ta nhìn không ch���p mắt.

1. Lưỡng thị hoa liễu toàn y thủy – cảnh đẹp ở hồ trước, hoa liễu tựa nhau

Thời nhà Thanh, thắng cảnh Tây Hồ ở Hàng Châu đã nổi tiếng khắp thiên hạ, do vậy có câu “Thiên hạ Tây Hồ tam thập lục”, hồ nước được gọi tên là “Tây Hồ” nhiều không đếm được, đều do hai chữ “Tây Hồ”. Khúc sông đoạn Sấu Tây Hồ quanh co biến đổi, bên bờ dương liễu rủ bóng, cảnh sắc tuyệt đẹp, một hồ lớn êm đềm diễm lệ. Thi nhân thời Thanh Uông Nguyên tán thưởng vẻ đẹp đó viết: “Liễu rủ không liên miên đến tận cùng, một chiếc cầu vòng một bức họa, cũng là tiêu kim một khúc, gọi là Sấu Tây Hồ.” Tên gọi Sấu Tây Hồ từ đó mà xác định.

Thời Thanh là thời kỳ hưng thịnh kiến tạo nên viên lâm Sấu Tây Hồ. Đặc biệt là thời Càn Long, nổi tiếng bởi 24 cảnh quan. Thời nhà Thanh năm Càn Long thứ 30 (1765), quan lại địa phương, thương nhân buôn muối ở Dương Châu, để nghênh tiếp Hoàng đế Càn Long lần thứ tư ngự giá tuần du phương nam, đã đặc biệt cho xây sửa các đình đài lầu các, hoa cỏ cây cối ở hai bên bờ Sấu Tây Hồ, xử lý nước ở viên lâm, cẩn trọng tỉ mỉ. Từ đó hình thành nên 24 cảnh nổi tiếng, bao gồm bờ thành lục dương thành lang, quyển thạch động thiên, tây viên khúc thủy, trường thị xuân liễu, hồng kiều lãm thắng, dã xuân thi xã, hà phố hắc phong, tứ kiều yên vũ, bích ngọc giao lưu, bạch tháp tình vân, tam quá lưu tông, thủy vân thắng lãm, v.v…

Đại đa số cảnh trí suốt dọc ven hồ đều đã bị tàn phá, cho đến năm 1986, Chính Phủ đã đầu tư xây dựng lại 24 cảnh quan, từ đó xây dựng nên bố cục thành hình chữ Chi (之) như ngày nay, dựa theo hình dáng dòng chảy nước hồ mà xây dựng nên cảnh quan mới lấy 24 cây cầu làm đại diện.

[reading-time]

《细说江南园林》，孙旭著。当代中国出版社，2009. 第九章： 疏密有致 - 艺圃 Chương 9: Sơ mật hữu trí – Nghệ Phố. Bản dịch  “Chi tiết các viên lâm ở Giang Nam”, tác giả Tôn Húc. Tâm Anh dịch.

Nghệ Phố nằm ở ngõ Văn Hành, Tô Châu, diện tích chừng 5 mẫu (*ghi chú người dịch 1 ha = 10.000 m2 = 15 mẫu), khu phía bắc lấy kiến trúc làm chủ, khu giữa là hồ nước, khu phía nam là sơn lâm. Ban đầu do Viên Tổ Canh, thời Minh, cho xây dựng, gọi là “Túy Dĩnh Đường”, sau thuộc sở hữu của đời sau của Văn Trưng Minh là Văn Chấn Mạnh, đổi tên thành “Dược Phố”. Năm cuối thời Sùng Thiếp, viên lâm này thuộc về Khương Thái, gọi là “Nghệ Phố”, “Kính Đình Sơn Phòng”. Thời Thanh, nơi này được sử dụng làm nơi nhuộm tơ lụa.

1.     Tiểu viên cảnh trí tinh xảo 

Nghệ Phố tuy nhỏ nhưng sơn thủy, kiến trúc, cây hoa đều có, mà lại được sắp đặt tỉ mỉ, không hổ danh xưng là viên lâm cổ điển tinh xảo nhã chí. Nghệ Phố nằm ở gần tường thành cổ tây thành Tô Châu, là một trong số các viên lâm Tô Châu khó tìm nhất, nằm ẩn trong khu đường nhỏ, vì khu này nhỏ hẹp, đến xe ô tô cũng không vào đến cổng được.

Viên Tổ Canh xuất thân bình thường, 22 tuổi ra làm quan, sau đường quan lộ thuận lợi. Nhưng khi đang rạng rỡ công danh ông đột ngột bị bãi quan, từ một mệnh quan triều đình bị giáng xuống làm dân thường, nhân sinh thay đổi lớn, tâm tình tự nhiên cũng dậy sóng, khó tranh mượn rượu giải sầu, bạn bè tốt và học trò của ông đều nói ông “là người mơ mộng thường lấy tỉnh làm say, lại cũng là người thực lấy say làm tỉnh, tự chọn lấy rượu để trốn chạy thực tế”. Do đó không khó để hiểu việc sau khi ông bị bãi quan, về quê, viên lâm nơi ông ở được gọi tên là “Túy Dĩnh Đường”, lại còn ẩn sâu trong lộng đường.

Viên lâm này sau đó thuộc sở hữu của Văn Chấn Mạnh, Văn Chấn Mạnh xuất thân danh môn vọng tộc, là con cháu đời sau của Văn Trưng Minh. Ông tinh thông kinh sử, có ý chí, nhưng 27 năm liền các lần khoa cử đều không đỗ. Thời Vạn Lịch, ông mua lại “Túy Dĩnh Đường” làm kinh doanh buôn bán một số năm, cuối thời Vạn Lịch gọi nơi đây là “Dược Phố”.

V��n Chấn Mạnh sau này tuy có bước vào con đường quan lộ, nhưng công ít phạt nhiều, chưa đến 3 tháng đã bị khiển trách. Đương thời trong số những người chính trực bị diệt vong nghiêm trọng, lại thêm quan nội Lý Tự Thành, Trương Hiến Trung khởi nghĩa nông dân, quan ngoại có Thanh quân dấy binh sắp tấn công vào thành, Đại Minh Hoàng Triều đã trong ngoài đều khốn quẫn, người chết người tử vong. Trong tình hình đó, Văn Chấn Mạnh về lại Tô Châu “Dược Phố” ẩn cư, chưa đến nửa năm ông buồn đau mà mất.

2.     Kiến trúc và sơn thủy kết hợp

Từ cổng lớn phía đông nam viên lâm bước vào, đi qua kiến trúc chữ thốn, là đến sơn lâm phía nam viên lâm. Ngước mắt có giả sơn cao vời vợi, cây cối um tùm. Theo đường núi mà đi lên, chỉ trông thấy một đình lục giác cao sừng sững, gọi là “Triều Sảng”.

Từ đó xuống núi, qua cầu đá sát mép nước là đến hồ ở giữa viên lâm. Hồ chiếm diện tích khoảng 1/3 viên lâm. Do diện tích hồ lớn, nước đặc biệt trong xanh. Phía đông hồ nước ven bờ có xây đình tứ phương, gọi là “Phù Ngư Đình”. Theo dọc phía bắc hồ, đến khu kiến trúc phía bắc viên lâm. Đầu phía nam có xây thủy tạ sát mép nước.

Từ thủy tạ nhìn xuôi phía nam, sơn thủy giao nhau, cây cối rậm rạp, cảnh rất tự nhiên, là đối cảnh chủ yếu trong viên lâm. Thủ pháp kết hợp hồ nước, thạch kinh, tuyệt bích như này, lấy thiên nhiên và vượt qua cảnh thiên nhiên, là phương thức xây dựng liên lâm thông dụng cả vùng Tô Châu vào cuối thời nhà Minh đầu nhà Thanh.

Mặt bắc thủy tạ có Bác Nhã Đường, là kiến trúc chủ yếu trong viên lâm. Đây là nơi dừng chân chủ đẹp nhất giữa cảnh trí ở Nghệ Phố.

[reading-time]

《细说江南园林》，孙旭著。当代中国出版社，2009. 第四章： 自然古朴 – 沧浪亭 Chương 4: Tự nhiên cổ phác – Thương Lãng Đình. Bản dịch  “Chi tiết các viên lâm ở Giang Nam”, tác giả Tôn Húc. Tâm Anh dịch.

Thương Lãng Đình nằm ở gần ngõ Tam Nguyên phía nam thành Tô Châu, là hoa viên tư nhân do văn nhân Tô Châu là Tô Thuấn Khâm cho xây dựng. Những năm đầu thời Nam Tống (đầu thế kỉ 12), nơi này trở thành phủ đệ của võ tướng Hàn Thế Trung. Thời Nguyên, Minh dường như bị bỏ hoang phế, cho đến thời Thanh được cho xây dựng lại, dần dần thành ra diện mạo như ngày nay. Thương Lãng Đình diện tích chừng 16 mẫu (*ghi chú người dịch: 1 ha = 10.000 m2 = 15 mẫu), sơn thủy có đủ, cảnh trí đa dạng, đình đài lầu các phong phú.

1.     Sự lựa chọn của Tô Thuấn Khâm  - non xanh nước biếc cùng dựa vào nhau, văn nhân gửi nỗi lòng

Thời Bắc Tống năm Khánh Lịch thứ 4 (1044), Tô Thuấn Khâm lúc đó 36 tuổi (tự Tử Mĩ) bị người khác hãm hại tấu lên hoàng thượng, mất chức về làm dân thường.

Tô Thuấn Khâm là người vốn tính hào sảng. Trong cuốn “Tứ hữu trai tùng thuyết” của Hà Lương Tuấn thời nhà Minhghi chép lại một chuyện oan tình thời trẻ của ông. Tô Thuấn Khâm thích uống rượu, lúc sống ở nhà cậu ngoại Đỗ Lang Công, mỗi tối đọc sách, đều phải uống một đấu rượu. Đỗ Lang Công rất hoài nghi, bèn sai gia nhân để ý. Gia nhân nghe được Tô Thuấn Khâm đọc thơ “Hán Thư. Trương Lương Truyện”, đến đoạn “Lương cùng Khách đánh lén Tần Thủy Hoàng nhầm trúng phải  xe phụ”, vỗ tay nói rằng: “Tiếc là đánh không trúng!”, mà rồi uống cạn một ly đầy, đọc đến “Lương … Sau khi nghe gia nhân bẩm báo, Đỗ Lang Công cười mà rằng: “Uống rượu như thế này, một đấu không đủ rồi”. Tô Thuấn Khâm 27 tuổi ra làm quan, nhận chức y sử ở Hào Châu, đem hết sức tiến hành chỉnh đốn trật tự xã hội. Sau về kinh làm tiểu sử gia, cũng dám nói dám làm. Vì thế, ông đắc tội với thế lực đượng quyền, bị bãi quan.

Những ngày nhàn rỗi ở đất Ngô (*ghi chú người dịch: đất Ngô ý chỉ Giang Nam), Tô Thuấn Khâm không giống kiểu Khuất Nguyên khi xưa, ôm đá tự vẫn dưới đáy sông, đương nhiên cũng không bỏ mình theo dòng nước, ông gửi nỗi lòng vào giữa sơn thủy Giang Nam, “có hứng thì đi thuyền ra sông, ngâm thơ lãm cảnh núi non sông nước”. Ông yêu thích phong cảnh sơn thủy hữu tình một vùng đất Tô Châu, do vậy đã bỏ 4 vạn quan tiền mua khoảnh đất cỏ cây rậm rạp, sông rộng đồi cao ở phía đông Khổng Miếu. Nơi này vốn trước là hoa viên thời Ngũ đại Ngô Việt Quảng Lăng Vương tiến cống cho vua Ngô Tiết độ sứ Tôn Thừa Hữu. Tại nơi này Tôn Thuấn Khâm cho xây đình dựa theo mạch nước, gọi tên là “Thương Lãng Đình”, đồng thời tự gọi bản thân là “Thương Lãng Ông”.

Như thế, Thương Lãng Đình thực sự khiến Tô Thuấn Khâm đạt được sự an ủi tâm linh rồi không?

Trong bài thơ “Lãm chiếu”, Tô Thuấn Khâm viết:” …

Một người hơn 30 tuổi đang khỏe khoắn tráng kiện, bỗng nhiên mặt như gặp họa, ánh mắt u tối, yếu ớt nhiều bệnh, nỗi đau đớn về thể chất và tinh thần có thể nhìn ra. Sau 5 năm ở Thương Lãng Đình, Tôn Thuấn Khâm lại được trọng dụng trở lại, được điều đến Hồ Châu làm trưởng sử. Tuy vậy trời chưa già lão người đã mệt mỏi, năm cuối cùng này, ông bệnh mà chết ở Hồ Châu, mới chỉ 40 tuổi.

2.     Một hoạt động văn hóa – Đào Chú ngũ lão, một đoạn giai thoại

Sau khi Tô Thuấn Khâm qua đời, Thương Lãng Đình qua nhiều đời chủ nhân, cũng không ngừng mở rộng. Thời Nam Tống, viên lâm này thuộc sở hữu của danh tướng chống Kim tên là Hàn Thế Trung. Nhưng từ thời Nguyên đến Minh, nơi này lại bị đem làm nơi chùa chiền.

Thời Thanh năm Đạo Quang thứ 7 (1827), tuần phủ Tô Châu là Đào Chú cho trùng tu toàn bộ Thương Lãng Đình. Đồng thời, Đào Chú còn triển khai một hoạt động văn hóa mới mẻ tại Tô Châu. Theo Bích Cương Tiểu Trúc của nhà sưu tập sách Cố Nguyên, Đào Chú từng xem hơn 300 bản vẽ nổi tiếng vùng Giang Nam. Về sau, với sự trợ giúp của nhân sĩ địa phương, ông lại thu thập thêm hơn 200 bức nữa. Đào Chú cho rằng, những bức họa này có đóng góp với văn hóa Tô Châu. Ông lệnh cho người đem những bức họa này tổ chức triển lãm, để mọi người cùng tán thưởng, lại đem khắc trên đá. Đương thời Thương Lãng Đình đã được trùng tu xong, Đào Chú do vậy cùng với bộ chính Sử Lương Chương, mua lại các dãy nhà ở phía tây Thương Lãng Đình thuộc nhà họ Trương.

Sau khi vào thành, Đào Chú vẫn dụng tâm tổ chức một lần ngũ lão hội – mời nội các trung thư đã 88 tuổi Phan Xích Nãi, Chưởng Sơn Đông Đạo giám sát ngự sử đã 81 tuổi Ngô Vân, Sơn Đông an sát sử 72 tuổi Thạch Viêm Ngọc, Thượng Thư hình bộ 71 tuổi Hàn Phong, cùng với bản thân Đào Chú là Giang Tô tuần phủ 50 tuổi, theo tuổi tác cao thấp sắp xếp, mỗi người theo một bài thơ, họa thành một bức “Ngũ lão đồ”. Người đương thời gọi đó là giai thoại Thái bình thịnh sự, hiền đạt phong lưu.

30 năm sau giai thoại về ngũ lão hội của Đào Chú, khói lửa chiến tranh đội quân nông dân Thái Bình Thiên Quốc đã thiêu hủy Thương Lãng Đình, các cây cổ thụ trong viên lâm bị chặt phá không còn.

Năm Đồng Trị thứ 12 (1873), Tu��n phủ Giang Tô Trương Thụ Thanh cho trùng tu lại Thương Lãng Đình, đồng thời lại thêm vào số 500 bức tranh trước đây thành 594 bức. Sau đó, Thương Lãng Đình được đổi tên thành “Ngũ bách danh hiền từ” (Đền 500 hiền nhân). Chủ đề viên lâm văn nhân của Thương Lãng Đình dần dần cũng nhạt dần, chủ yếu được coi trọng ở công dụng đạo đức lễ giáo. Năm 1955, “Thương Lãng Đình” lấy lại tên cũ.

 3.     Sơn thủy ở Thương Lãng – bố cục quanh núi, hồ sâu hoa nở

Bố cục ở Thương Lãng Đình vô cùng đặc sắc: lấy giả sơn làm trung tâm, từ đó vòng theo các giả sơn này mà xây dựng; không tạo mặt nước rộng, thủy cảnh mượn con suối tự nhiên ngoài viên lâm. Con suối theo phía bắc viên lâm nhẹ nhàng chảy từ tây sang đông, du khách đi đến bên bờ suối, chưa vào trong viên lâm đã có thể thưởng ngoạn cảnh. Chỉ trông thấy dãy hành lang phía bờ nam suối, qua những song cửa, cổ thụ rậm rạp, đá tảng rất nhiều. Điểm này là khác biệt rất lớn với những bức tường cao bao kín các viên lâm khác ở Tô Châu.

Một cây cầu phẳng vượt qua con suối, thông vào cổng viên lâm. Qua cây cầu này, có thể trông thấy một giả sơn bằng đất ở chính giữa.

Đoạn phía đông Thổ sơn được tạo thành từ hoàng thạch, tương truyền là di vật thời Tống. Đoạn phía Tây được đắp thêm hồ thạch, tuy lung linh nhưng hơi phức tạp, là kết quả tu sửa về sau. Các viên đá đắp trên thổ sơn được mài bóng, cây cối um tùm, các bụi hoang tự nhiên. Đứng trong đó, cảm giác như đang ở chốn rừng núi thật. Cổ nhân vì thế mà hình gọi Thương Lãng Đình một cách hình tượng là “Cận sơn lâm”, chỉ ra đặc sắc giả sơn ở Thương Lãng Đình. Thương Lãng Đình được xây ở vị trí cao nhất phía đông dãy giả sơn. Bốn bên có mái cong, cột đá. Trên cột đá có câu đối đề “Thanh phong minh nguyệt bổn vô giá, cận thủy viễn sơn giai hữu tình”, do bộ chính Sử Lương Chương năm Đạo Quang thu thập, viết cảnh vi��t tình.

Phía tây nam giả sơn có bức tường, gần xuống hồ sâu, trên đá có đề hai chữ “Lưu ngọc”. Phía tây bắc giả sơn có một cây sơn trà, khi hoa nở đến 6, 7 nghìn bông, cảnh vô cùng rực rỡ, có thể so sánh với “Bảo châu sơn trà” ở Chuyết Chính Viên, và “Thập tam thái bảo” ở Võng Sư Viên.

 4.     Hành lang song hoa – nghệ thuật độc đáo, tinh xảo

Giữa giả sơn và hồ nước ở Thương Lãng Đình, có tường bao quanh co tạo thành một hành lang hướng về bên trong. Phía ngoài hành lang sát mép nước hồ xanh, phía trong gần giả sơn, dựa sơn gần nước, quanh co lên xuống. Trên tường hành lang có nhiều song hoa hình quạt. Song hoa ở Thương Lãng Đình đa dạng, khoảng 108 dạng thức, phân bố trên các bức tường hành lang hướng vào phía trong viên lâm. Hoa văn các song hoa đa dạng, điển hình hoa văn viên lâm Tô Châu. Các hoa song này không chỉ kết nối cảnh phía trong là giả sơn và phía ngoài là hồ nước, khiến giả sơn, hồ nước hòa làm một thể thống nhất, còn rất tiện cho du khách thưởng ngoạn cảnh quan: khi đi bộ dọc hành lang, trước mắt là nước chảy quanh co, cách bức hoa song nhìn vào thấy giả sơn.

Phía tây hành lang có thủy tạ, gọi là “Diện thủy hiên”. Hiên này hai mặt sát mép nước, trước đình cổ thụ phản chiếu, tên gọi chính là lấy ý thơ Đỗ Phủ “Tằng hiên giai diện thủy, lão thụ bao kinh sương”.

5.    Kiến trúc dựa theo núi – thạch ốc ấn tâm, viên linh chính minh

Vòng quanh giả sơn, từ đông sang tây có các kiến trúc Minh Đạo Đường, Dao Hoa Cảnh Giới, Khán Sơn Lầu, Thúy Linh Long Quán, Ngưỡng Chỉ Đình, Ngũ Bách Danh Hiền Từ, Thanh Hương Quán, Bộ Kỉ Đình, Ngự Bi Đình, v.v…

Minh Đạo Đường nằm ở phía nam Thương Lang Đình, vốn là nơi dạy học của văn nhân. Thời nhà Thanh những năm Đồng Trị nơi này được xây dựng lại, lấy ý từ “Thương Lãng Đình kí” của Tô Thuấn Khâm, “Quan thính vô nha, tắc đạo dĩ minh” mà đặt tên. Minh Đạo Đường rộng rãi, sáng sủa, là kiến trúc lớn nhất trong viên lâm. Trong đường có ba tấm bia đá rất quý thuộc Tô Châu thời Tống, đó là Thiên Văn Đồ, Địa Lý Đồ, Bình Giang Đồ. Các bia đá gốc này hiện được lưu giữ trong Bảo tàng thành phố Tô Châu, rất có giá trị.

Khán Sơn Lầu nằm ở cuối phía nam viên lâm, xây dựng trên một động giả sơn. Cao rộng thông thoáng, các góc mái cong vút, là lầu đài độc đáo trong số các kiến trúc viên lâm ở Tô Châu. Lên lầu có thể nhìn xa phía tây nam các đỉnh núi, trong khi từ các ô song hoa có thể ngắm Thương Lãng Đình, như đang đứng sâu trong rừng núi vậy.

Dưới Khán Sơn Lầu có hai nhà xây bằng đá, trên cửa khắc bốn chữ “Ấn tâm thạch ốc”, do chính vua Đạo Quang đề. Tên của kiến trúc này lấy từ sách Phật gia “Y dĩ biểu tín, pháp nãi ấn tâm”.

Trước thạch ốc lấy giả sơn bao quanh thành tiểu viện, trên cổng viện đề bốn chữ từ “Viên linh chứng minh” trong sách của Lâm Tắc Từ.

Mặt phía bắc Khán Sơn Lầu là Thúy Lệnh Long Quán. Tên gọi lấy từ câu thơ của Tô Thuần Khâm “nhật quang xuyên trúc thúy lệnh long” (ánh sáng mặt trời xuyên qua lá trúc lung linh). Tiểu quán bao quanh bởi các ô cửa màu lục, trước sau có trúc, bách, ba tiêu. Trong quán có câu đối: “Phụng đế tiêm trường địch | Lưu thủy đương minh cầm”, ý thơ chỉ cảnh yên tĩnh nơi đây.

Từ Thúy Lệnh Long Quán đi xiên hướng bắc, là đến Ngưỡng Chỉ Đình. Tên đình này lấy từ “Thi Kinh”, câu “cao sơn ngưỡng chỉ, cảnh hành hành chỉ”. Giữa đình trên tường có bức tranh khắc đá tranh của họa gia thời Minh Văn Trưng Minh, trên tường hành lang có “thương lãng ngũ lão đồ vĩnh”, “chu tồn kí thất hữu đồ”, và các khắc đá khác.

Hành lang phía trái Ngưỡng Chỉ Đình có bức tường, trên có khắc trên gạch hình các nhân vật đang cưỡi mây. Đây là sản phẩm của các nghệ nhân ở Tô Châu, chạm khắc tinh tế, sinh động, tỉ mỉ, có lịch sử ít nhất đều ít nhất 100 năm.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66VV9En7Gvk

[reading-time]

《细说江南园林》，孙旭著。当代中国出版社，2009. 第一章： 冠绝江南 – 拙政园 Chương 1: Quán tuyệt Giang Nam – Chuyết Chính Viên. Bản dịch  “Chi tiết các viên lâm ở Giang Nam”, tác giả Tôn Húc. Tâm Anh dịch.

冠绝江南 – 拙政园

Chuyết Chính Viên nằm trên phố Đông Bắc, trong Lâu Môn, Thành phố Tô Châu, là viên lâm tư gia cổ kính nổi tiếng cả nước, cũng là viên lâm cổ lớn nhất ở Tô Châu, được xây dựng vào thời nhà Minh năm Chính Đức thứ tư (1509), do quan ngự sử triều Minh Vương Hiến Thần cho xây dựng. Thời kỳ đầu triều Thanh, viên lâm này vào tay con rể Ngô Tam Quế là Vương Vĩnh Ninh; ông này cho tiến hành tu sửa quy mô lớn. Sau đó, Chuyết Chính Viên qua mấy lần hưng phế, dần dần hình thành nên quy mô và bố cục như chúng ta thấy ngày nay.

Chuyết Chính Viên phân 4 bộ phận là Đông, Trung, Tây, và Khu nhà ở. Khu Đông nổi bật là viễn sơn bình cương (núi xa đồi phẳng), tùng lâm thảo bình (rừng thông bãi cỏ), trúc ổ khúc thủy (thung lũng trúc nước quanh co); khu Trung là chủ thể của toàn bộ viên lâm, nổi bật là nước, trên diện tích mặt đất hơn 18 mẫu (1 ha = 10.000 m2 = 15 mẫu), diện tích mặt nước hồ chiếm 1/3, bố cục lấy hồ nước làm trung tâm, bố bên xây đường, đình, hiên, các, v.v…; khu Tây cũng lấy hồ nước làm trung tâm; khu nhà ở là điển hình kiểu nhà dân ở Tô Châu, hiện được trưng dụng làm nhà trưng bày viên lâm.

1.    Lòng son nghĩa đảm cùng chiếu rọi – nắm tay kiến quốc, sử lưu giai thoại

“Viên lâm Giang Nam nhất thiên hạ, viên lâm Tô Châu nhất Giang Nam.” Trong số các viên lâm Tô Châu phồn hoa như gấm dệt, viên lâm nào lại ở vị trí đứng đầu đây? Chính là Chuyết Chính Viên được mọi người đều công nhận.

Ngày 4/3/1961, Chuyết Chính Viên được chính thức công nhận là địa điểm bảo tồn văn vật trọng điểm cấp quốc gia trong đợt ban bố lần 1 của Quốc Vụ Viện, cùng với Di Hòa Viên ở Bắc Kinh, Sơn Trang tránh nóng Thừa Đức, Lưu Viên ở Tô Châu, trở thành “Tứ đại danh viên” của Trung Quốc. Ngày 4/12/1997, Chuyết Chính Viên lại cùng với Lưu Viên, Võng Sư Viên, Hoàn Tú Sơn Trang, v.v… trở thành điển hình của viên lâm cổ điển Tô Châu, được tổ chức UNESCO đưa vào danh sách “Di sản văn hóa thế giới”.

Chuyết Chính Viên sở dĩ nổi tiếng như vậy, ngoài vẻ đẹp kiến trúc viên lâm của nơi này, còn là vì nơi này có mối liên hệ với nhiều nhân vật lịch sử nổi tiếng.

Chủ nhân đầu tiên của Chuyết Chính Viên là Vương Hiến Thần, tự Kính Chỉ, hiệu Quỷ Vũ, người Tô Châu, thời nhà Minh, nhược quán nhưng đỗ vào chốn quan trường. Bởi nhân cách chính trực, được điều làm quan ngự sử. Vào thời nhà Minh, ngự sử là chức quan không dễ làm. Một mặt phải vạch mặt bách quan không tuân pháp luật, biện minh oan ngục; mặt khác lại là “cơ quan phong hiến tai mắt của thiên tử”, phải tùy lúc giám sát hành vi ngôn từ bất lợi đối với quyền lực hoàng đế từ các đại thần, báo lên hoàng đế, theo đó tấn công xử tội. Vương Hiến Thần tuy một lòng chính khí, không sợ quyền quý, có “phong thái thần tử thẳng th��n xưa nay”, nhưng vì không sẵn lòng bán đứng lương tâm của ình, mà nhiều lần bị vu hại, giáng chức quan hết lần này đến lần khác.

“Bang hữu đạo tắc kiến, bang bất đạo tắc ẩn”, Vương Hiến Thần do đó từ quan về quê. Thời Minh năm Chính Đức thứ tư (1509), ông mua đất vốn là nền cũ chùa Đại Hồng, giữa Lâu Môn, Tô Châu, cùng với vùng đất trũng quanh đó, bắt đầu kiến tạo viên lâm.

Vương Hiến Thần tuy không được lòng hoàng đế, nhưng vì bác học đa tài, không mưu tư lợi mà có được sự ái mộ sâu sắc của rất nhiều học sĩ, một trong số đó có Văn Trưng Minh. Văn Trưng Minh (1470- 1559), tự Hoành Sơn, là nhân vật tiêu biểu đại diện cho phái hội họa Ngô Môn thời Minh, ông làm người phân rõ thị phi, kết giao bạn bè thân thiết với Vương Hiến Thần.

Sau khi Vương Hiến Thần cho Văn Trưng Minh biết kế hoạch xây dựng viên lâm của mình, Văn Trưng Minh đã bày tỏ ý muốn cùng giúp. Từ đó, hai người họ thường cùng nhau quy hoạch, thảo luận: nơi này thế đất khá thấp, vừa có chút hướng đất tốt, lại có trữ nước, vậy theo địa hình mà kiến tạo, đào thành hồ nước, xung quanh một vòng rừng cây; đất bằng khá nhiều, lập thành rừng trúc, trồng đào liễu; trong sơn thủy, rừng cây mà kiến tạo đình đường hiên lầu, lầu tạ trai quán, v.v… Một viên lâm Giang Nam lấy thủy cảnh làm chủ, thiên nhiên điển nhã, thư lãng giản đạm chính là theo đó được xây dựng nên. Theo ghi chép của địa phương chí, đương thời Chuyết Chính Viên “rộng hơn 200 mẫu, nhiều cây hồ quanh co, đứng đầu cả vùng đất Ngô”. (*ghi chú người dịch: 1 ha = 10.000 m2 = 15 mẫu, đất Ngô ý chỉ vùng Giang Nam)

Viên lâm xây xong rồi, lấy tên gì cho hợp đây? Nhà văn Phan Nhạc Tăng thời nhà Kim từng viết một bài tên là “Nhàn Cư Vũ”, trong đó có đoạn rất được Vương Hiến Thần yêu thích: “Nhưỡng viên châu sơ, dĩ cộng triều tịch chi thiện, thị xích chuyết chi giả vi chính dã.” Nghĩ đến việc mình không quen với triều đình hủ bại mà từ quan về quê, từ bỏ nguyện vọng lớn “đạt tắc kiêm tề thiên hạ” vốn có trong lòng từ thuở nhỏ, Vương Hiến Thần quyết định đặt tên viên lâm là “Chuyết Chính”, biểu thị bản thân muốn quy ẩn nơi rừng núi. Văn Trưng Minh cho rằng tên này rất hợp.

Năm Gia Tĩnh thứ 20 (1533), Văn Vi Minh đã tỉ mỉ vẽ ra 31 bức “Tranh vẽ cảnh vườn Chuyết Chính”, đồng thời đề thơ văn lên mỗi bức. Đây là kết quả nghệ thuật giá trị kết hợp trong đó nghệ thuật viên lâm cổ đại, hội họa, thơ ca. Thời nhà Thanh, họa gia Đới Hi đã tập hợp các tranh do Văn Trưng Minh vẽ làm thành một bức tranh hoàn chỉnh toàn cảnh Chuyết Chính Viên, trở thành một câu chuyện đẹp trong lịch sử viên lâm, và trong lịch sử hội họa Trung Qu��c.

2.    Phân hợp chuyển đổi nhiều chủ nhân – 10 mẫu

Sau khi Vương Hiến Thần qua đời, con trai ham mê cờ bạc, đem Chuyết Chính Viên bao năm công xây dựng tu sửa, một đêm gán nợ đổi chủ. Viên Học Đông, người thời Thanh cảm khái mà rằng: “Thập mẫu danh viên hạnh tương gia, hoa thời môn ngoại tập hương xa. Bách niên đường câu kinh luận nghiệp, chỉ phụ khuất phố nhất đặng xa.” Đồ giành được từ chiếu bạc tất nhiên không được quý trọng, không đến mấy năm, Từ Gia thắng bạc lại đem viên lâm bỏ không đến hoang vu.

Xx năm thứ tư (1631), Vương Tâm Nhất mua lại hơn 10 mẫu đất hoang khu đông viên lâm. Vương Tâm Nhất, tự Thuần Phổ, hiệu Nguyên Tục, người Tô Châu, năm Vạn Lịch 41 (1613) ra làm quan, quan chức đến Hình bộ thị lang. Vương Tâm Nhất thích vẽ tranh sơn thủy, cũng yêu thích viên lâm.

 3.    Điền viên phong quang tại đông viên – Hà tư dao khiển, đạo mạch phong hương

Đông Viên vốn là nơi ở của Vương Tâm Nhất khi quy ẩn về nơi điền viên thôn dã, diện tích chừng 31 mẫu (*ghi chú người dịch: 1 ha = 10.000 m2 = 15 mẫu). Trong viên lâm có sơn đảo, hồ sen, đồi thông, lũng trúc, v.v… tất cả đều là phong cảnh điền viên. Kiến trúc chủ yếu có Phù Dung Tạ, Thiên Tuyền Các, Mạch Hương Quán, v.v…

Phù Dung Tạ được xây ở bên hồ sen. Phù dung có phù dung trồng trên đất, và phù dung thủy sinh. Phù dung trồng trên đất là một loài hoa thay đổi sắc màu: buổi sớm mai ánh sáng vừa ló rạng hoa sắc hồng nhạt, buổi trưa khi mặt trời đứng bóng hoa đổi sang màu tím hồng, chiều tối khi mặt trời lặn hoa biến thành màu hồng phấn, đặc biệt rất quý. Phù dung thủy sinh chỉ hoa sen cũng gọi là liên hoa. “Phù Dung Tạ” có chính diện là một hồ sen, phía sau là một bức tường cao, bố cục một bên thoáng rộng, một bên đóng kín, khiến không khí xung quanh vô cùng an tĩnh.

Thiên Tuyền Các được xây giữa một bãi cỏ xanh, mái có các mái cong, tám mặt, rất nổi bật giữa nền trời xanh mây trắng. Tương truyền nơi đây vốn là di chỉ thời Nguyên chùa Đại Hồng. Sau khi xây dựng xong, tại giếng chùa có đề “Thiên Tuyền Các”. Kiến trúc này từ bên ngoài trông như có 2 tầng, thực ra vào phía trong lại thấy chỉ có một tầng. Ở góc “Thiên Tuyền Các”, liếc nhìn mây bay gió thổi qua, lầu các như cũng đang hướng lên trời cao.

Mạch Hương Quán, chính là nơi thưởng ngoạn hương đồng lúa phiêu diêu. Thời Minh, nơi này “lầu cao có thể ngắm bốn hướng, mỗi khi chuyển giao mùa hạ sang thu, ruộng trồng lúa mạch, đều trong tầm mắt”. Hiện nay kiến trúc chủ yếu ở Mạch Hương Quán là chuyển từ núi phía đông trong Chuyết Chính Viên khi được trung tu vào những năm 1960 của thế kỉ 20, kết cấu khá lớn, có chút khác biệt so với cảnh ban đầu.

4.    Thủy hương phong vị thoại trung viên – hồng lâu mộng ảnh, hà ánh hương châu, thương lãng minh chí

Khu giữa của viên lâm diện tích chừng 18 mẫu, trong đó diện tích mặt nước chiếm ít nhất 1/3.

Từ cổng lớn cũ của Chuyết Chính Viên vào viên lâm, đầu tiên dẫn đến một đình viện nhỏ. 

5.    Hang trời phúc địa ở Tây viên – cách viên tá cảnh, uyên ương độ khúc

Nơi giao giữa khu trung và khi tây của Chuyết Chính Viên, có một bán đình, gọi là “Biệt hữu động thiên” (hang trời hiếm có). Tại sao lại có tên gọi này?

Đạo gia thời xưa có thể nói là nghề nghiệp của người lữ hành. Để tìm kiếm nơi đất tốt phong thủy thuận lợi luyện kim đan, họ không ngại khó khăn gian khổ, đi khắp núi cao sông rộng trong thiên hạ. Thời Đông Tấn, Đạo gia đối với phong cảnh trong nước có nhiều đánh giá, tổng kết thành 36 động thiên (hang trời), 72 phúc địa (đất tốt). Từ đó, động thiên phúc đian trở thành danh từ thay thế chỉ cảnh đẹp chốn sơn thủy. Trong Chuyết Chính Viên có xây bán đình này, ý nghĩa chính là sau khi bước qua động thiên này, còn có một thế giới đẹp đẽ hơn đang chờ đợi chúng ta.

Năm Đạo Quang thứ ba (1877), phú thương Ngô Huyện tên là Trương Phúc Khiêm mua lại khu tây Chuyết Chính Viên lúc đó đã bị đổ nát nhiều, lại mời họa gia Tô Châu là Cố Nhược Ba và những người khác đến tham gia công việc trùng tu, gọi nơi đó là “Bổ viên”. Viên lâm cổ Trung Quốc rất coi trọng tá cảnh (mượn cảnh). Các nhà thiết kế viên lâm có tên tuổi thời Minh tổng kết trong cuốn “Viên Dã” các quy luật gồm mượn xa (viễn tá), mượn gần (lân tá), mượn cúi (phủ tá), mượn ngưỡng (ngưỡng tá), mượn thực (thực tá), mượn hư (hư tá). Do Bổ Viên diện tích có hạn, Cố Nhược Ba và đồng sự cho xây dựng trên bờ tường viên lâm các hoa song, động thiên. Như thế, cách bức tường, Bổ Viên có thể mượn cảnh khu Trung, chiếu roi, cảnh quan do vậy vô cùng phong phú.

Cố Nhược Ba và đồng sự còn cho xây một đình nhỏ trên đỉnh giả sơn. Khi bước lên đình nhìn xuống phía nam, sơn cảnh trong viên lâm, lầu các, v.v… đều trong tầm mắt; hướng về phía đông, lại có thể bao quát cảnh núi hồ khu trung, vì thế lấy câu thơ “Lục dương nghị tác lưỡng gia xuân” của Bạch Cư Dị thời Đường, đặt tên là “Nghị Lưỡng Đình”. Nghe nói Bạch Cư Dị và Tiền Trưng là hàng xóm cách tường. Bên tường có cây liễu rất lớn cành lá xum xuê, mỗi độ mùa xuân cây liễu xanh hai nhà đều thấy, nên có câu thơ: “Minh nguyệt hảo đồng tam kinh dạ, lục dương nghị tác lưỡng gia xuân”. Nghị Lưỡng Đình là một ví dụ về cách mượn cảnh qua tường ngăn trong kiến trúc viên lâm (cách viên tá cảnh).

Từ Nghị Lưỡng Đình đi tiếp xuống, là có thể đến sảnh đường chính trong khu Tây Chuyết Chính Viên – Sảnh Uyên Ương. Gọi là Sảnh Uyên Ương, chính là chỉ kiến trúc dưới cùng một mái nhà phân ra hai khu nam bắc, ở giữa ngăn bằng cửa ngăn cách cùng với các vách có phù điêu hoa; về kết cấu hình thức khu nam bắc không giống nhau, một bên dung viên tác (hình khối tròn), một bên dùng biên tác (hình khối nghiêng). Khu phía nam Sảnh Uyên Ương này lầ Mantuoluo hoa quán, phía bắc là Xuyên Lục Uyên Ương Quán.

Hoa Mantuoluo là vật cát tường chỉ sự trường thọ. Theo ấn quang pháp sư trong “A manluo kinh chú thích” giới thiệu, thế giới Tây Phương cực lạc mỗi ngày đều phổ giáng hoa mantuoluo; nhưng trên thế giới này, chỉ có người đa phúc đa thọ mới trông thấy hoa này. Theo truyền thuyết hoa mantuoluo và hoa sơn trà đều rất giống nhau, vì thế nơi này trồng 18 cây sơn trà để ứng cảnh.

Uyên Ương Quán phía bắc sát hồ nước, trong hồ vốn trước có thả nuôi uyên ương. Theo “Chân Suất Bút Kí” ghi chép: “Tuyết quang viên trung dương đại trì, trực ngũ sắc thùy liên, dưỡng uyên ương tam thập lục đôi, vọng chi lan nhược ba cẩm.” Sảnh bắc vì thế đề tên là “xuyên lục uyên ương quán”.

Ngày xuân thưởng sơn trà hoa, ngày hè ngắm hồ sen mát mẻ, sảnh Uyên Ương còn là nơi chủ nhân viên lâm bày yến thết đãi khách khứa, nghe hát xướng kịch khúc. Chủ nhân viên lâm là Trương Phục Khiêm rất có tài văn nghệ, thích kết giao bạn bè là thi nhân họa sĩ. Đồng thời, ông cũng lại là người mê côn khúc, thích hát xướng. Đương thời phụ thân của nghệ nhân biểu diễn côn khúc nổi tiếng là Du Chấn Phi tiên sinh – nhà kịch khúc Du Lô từng là khách của Trương Phục Khiêm, có lúc còn vào ở trong viên lâm. Du Chấn Phi những năm còn nhỏ cũng từng đến thăm viên lâm này.

Đi vòng hướng bắc quanh Tháp Ảnh Đình, có thể đến được Lưu Thính Các. Phía trước gác có khoảng bình đài lớn, hai bên đài sát mặt nước, phía đông nam từ Khúc Kiều có thể thông sang sảnh Uyên Ương. Trong hồ trồng nhiều hoa sen. Đêm Trung Thu, nếu gặp mưa, có thể nghe tiếng mưa rơi trên lá sen, thực rất vui tai. “Lưu Thính Các” có tên gọi lấy từ câu thơ “Lưu đắc tàn hà thính vũ thanh” (giữa lại hoa sen tàn nghe tiếng mưa rơi).

6.    Tì bà tiểu viện tự thành thể - vãn thúy đông lân, ba tiêu dạ vũ

Phía đông nam Viễn Hương Đường có một bức tường, bên ngoài có một vùng cảnh sắc hồ và núi, phía trong lại là một vườn nhỏ trong viên lâm – Tì Bà Viên. Tương truyền tì bà trong vườn được thân thích đời sau của Thái Bình Thiên Quốc Trung Vương Lý Tú Thành trồng thêm vào, dần thành ra diện mạo. Hai bên Nguyệt động môn đề tách riêng “Tì Bà Viên” và “Vãn Thúy”. Vậy, vì sao lại đề là “Vãn Thúy”?

Cây tì bà có cành xòe lá to, lá cây bốn mùa không lụi, mùa đông ra hoa màu trắng, gọi là “tử hoa đông toan”. Vì thế cùng với “kinh đông bất điều” gồm tùng, trúc, mai có nét tương đồng, xưa gọi là “vãn thúy” (xanh muộn).

Tên gọi tì bà, là vì lá của cây này âm đọc như đàn tì bà, gọi là “danh đồng âm khí, chất bối tùng trúc”. Vì thế, người ta thường nhầm từ tì bà (cây) thành tì bà (đàn, nhạc cụ). Về tên gọi tì bà viên còn có một câu chuyện. Có người gửi cho họa gia thời Minh là Thẩm Chu một vài cây tì bà, không biết trong thư thế nào lại viết nhầm thành “tì bà” (nhạc cụ). Thẩm Chu rất hài hước, trong thư trả lời trêu đùa rằng: “nghe nói tì bà, mở song cửa nhìn. Nghe không có tiếng, ăn lại có vị.”

Tì Bà Viên không phải một tiểu viên tách biệt, nó hướng phía đong nối với Thính Vũ Hiên, Hải Đường Xuân Ô, và các kiến trúc khác, hình thành nên cảnh sắc đình viện thâm thâm ở góc đông nam khu trung của Chuyết Chính Viên.

Trước Thính Vũ Hiên có hồ nước rộng, bên hồ trồng chuối tiêu, thủy trúc. Đêm mưa ở đây ngắm cảnh, có thể thấy cảnh sắc “trên lá chuối tiêu có mưa lất phất, trong mơ như nghe thấy tiếng ngọc vỡ”.

Hải Đường Xuân Ô tên gọi vậy vì nơi này trồng nhiều hải đường. Trong khuôn viên có trồng cây trúc rất lớn.

[reading-time]

《细说江南园林》，孙旭著。当代中国出版社，2009. Bản dịch “Chi tiết các viên lâm ở Giang Nam”, tác giả Tôn Húc, NXB Đương đại Trung Quốc , Bắc Kinh, tháng 1/ 2009. Tâm Anh dịch.

Lời mở đầu

“Giang Nam tươi đẹp, phong cảnh đã thành thơ. Lúc bình minh hoa trên sông rộ hồng hơn lửa, xuân đến mặt nước xanh như ngọc, có thể nào không nhớ Giang Nam?”. Vẻ đẹp của vùng Giang Nam đã nổi tiếng từ xưa, mà cảnh quan viên lâm ở Giang Nam lại biểu đạt mang tính nghệ thuật của vẻ đẹp thiên nhiên, được mệnh danh là “hội họa lập thể, thơ không cất tiếng”. Cảnh đẹp như tranh được tạo nên ở Giang Nam, khiến cho người ở đó “không ra khỏi thành, mà vẫn được thưởng thức vẻ đẹp chốn sơn lâm.”

Viên lâm ở Trung Quốc đại để có thể chia thành hai loại: viên lâm hoàng gia của các đế vương và viên lâm tư gia thời phong kiến cổ xưa, viên lâm Giang Nam đa số tập trung ở đất Tô Châu, Vô Tích, Dương Châu, Nam Kinh, v.v…

Viên lâm Giang Nam là bộ phận cấu thành quan trọng trong viên lâm ở Trung Quốc, đại diện cho trình độ cao nhất của nghệ thuật kiến trúc viên lâm Trung Quốc, đối với kiến trúc viên lâm hoàng gia cho đến viên lâm thế giới đều có ảnh hưởng tương đối lớn.

Giang Nam từ xưa là vựa lúa gạo cá tôm, rất phong phú về sản vật, thủ công nghiệp phát triển, văn hóa nghệ thuật phồn thịnh, lại thêm khí hậu dễ sống, non xanh nước biếc, lại là nơi những người thành đạt công danh hiển quý, thương giả văn nhân tụ tập; nơi đây điều kiện thiên nhiên vô cùng đắc địa để xây dựng viên lâm. Những người kiến tạo nên viên lâm ở Giang Nam đa phần là văn nhân, họa gia, họ mượn nền tảng nghệ thuật văn hóa thâm hậu của mình, khi kiến tạo nên viên lâm, đã tái tạo một cách xuất sắc, tỉ mỉ, cảnh đẹp tự nhiên đầy sinh khí, tạo nên một dạng viên lâm đầy ý sơn thủy “khiến người ở đó quên già, người đến rồi quên về, người du lãm quên mệt”.

Cuốn sách này lần đầu tiên từ nhiều góc độ bao gồm nhân văn, kiến trúc, du lịch, v.v. mô tả một cách toàn diện mà chi tiết những viên lâm Giang Nam mang tính đại diện nhất, hy vọng có thể giúp độc giả thêm hiểu hơn về phong vị viên lâm Giang Nam.

Mục lục

Chương 1: Quán tuyệt Giang Nam – Chuyết Chính Viên

Chương 2: Minh tĩnh nhã chí – Võng Sư Viên

Chương 3: Tinh xảo cẩn tần – Lưu Viên

Chương 4: Tự nhiên cổ phác – Thương Lãng Đình

Chương 5: Tinh hoa hội tụ - Kháp Viên

Chương 6: Giả sơn chi viên – Sư Tử Lâm

Chương 7: Song Viên tịnh liệt – Ngẫu Viên

Chương 8: Nham luyện kiên thúy – Hoàn Tú Sơn Trang

Chương 9: Sơ mật hữu trí – Nghệ Phố

Chương 10: Sơn lâm dã thú – Kỳ Sướng Viên

Chương 11: Dĩ sấu vi mĩ – Sấu Tây Hồ

Chương 12: Dĩ phong nhã truyền – Cá Viên

Chương 13: Thương sơn cổ tích - Hà Viên

Chương 14: Kim lăng danh viên – Ngôn Viên

Chương 15: Thiếp thủy danh viên - Thoái Tư Viên

Chương 16: Dĩ nhã khiết thắng – Quách Trang

Chương 17: Thư pháp thánh địa – Lan Đình

Chương 18: Dĩ tình ngụ cảnh – Thẩm Viên

Chương 19: Chí mĩ thả lạc - Dự Viên

[reading-time]

7 years

[reading-time]

Sanmao’s “Stories of the Sahara”, 《撒哈拉的故事》，素人渔夫 Amateur fishing man, Tâm Anh translated.

      Once on Sunday, Jose was at company for over-time work, whole day not home.

　　I, to pass the time, took out all the money Jose has earnt during this year from March till now, counted carefully, noted down on a blank sheet of paper, awaiting him to come back.  

　To the evening, Jose was home, I placed the note paper in front of him, saying: “You see, during this half a year we have earnt, sum up, this so much money.”

　　He took a glance on the calculation I did, very glad, saying: “Hard to imagine, we have earnt this so much money; enduring the hard days in the desert, it worths our efforts.”

　　“Let’s eat out today, anyway we have this much money.” He joyfully proposed.

　　I knew he wanted to take me to dine at the National Hotel, very quickly I changed clothes to go out with him; this kind of reality was once upon a time.

      “We want best-quality red wine, seafood soup, beef-steak for me, four helpings of prawns for my wife, ice-cream cake as deserts, also four helpings, thank you!” Jose said to the waiter.

　　“Lucky, today I have not eaten any the whole day, now we should have a big meal.” I whispered to Jose.

　　National Hotel was one under the organization of the Spanish Government; the dining hall was decorated very nicely like an Arabic royal palace, with very local ambiance, very comfortable soft lights, customers were not many; in here the atmosphere was fresh, no smell of dirt, knife and fork are kept clean to snow-like shining, table cloth was well ironed, soft music sound was like stream water flowing. I was sitting there, almost forgot we were in the desert, but seemed going back to our good old days.

　　After a while, foods were served, on a nice silver plate, a large row of fried prawns lined with green lettuce, glass filled with dark red wine.

　　“Ah! The blue bird of happiness is coming!” I exclaimed in excitement, looking at the dish.

　　“So delicious, from now on we should come here more often!” Jose sounded very generous that evening, like a tycoon.

　　Living in the desert for a certain time, it makes people learn a good thing: any little real-life enjoyment can bring about exceedingly heart-felt satisfaction and make people fly high. In other words, we take our senses more serious than our head.

　　Dinner finished, spent on it a fortune, we were very happy walking home, that evening I was a very happy person.

　　The following day, we of course ate at home; on the dinner plate there was one baked potato cake, one bread, a pot of water.

　　“We’ll share, wait I divide, this cake, you eat 2/3, I take 1/3.”

　　I was one hand sharing the potato cake, the other hand placing the bread in whole in the bowl for Jose, made it look quite full.

　　“It’s very delicious, I have added onion, let’s eat!” I started to eat.

　　Jose, like a tiger, ate up his cake in a wink, then he stood up heading to the kitchen.

　　“There’s no more, today let’s have just these.” I immediately stopped him.

　    “What’s wrong today?” He did not understand, looked at me.

　　“You look on this!” I passed on to him to see another calculating note.

　　“This is the sum-up of our expenses in recent half a year, yesterday’s calculation was of income, today’s calculation is of expenses.” I patted on his shoulder, explained.

　　“This much, we have spent this much? All has been spent!” He yelled.

　    “Yes.” I nodded.

　　“You see, on the note paper it is written clearly.”

　　Jose grabbed the note paper reading the cash flow I have done ——“tomato 60 kuai per kilogram, melon 220, pork half a kilogram 300——"

　　“How come you bought such expensive food, we could eat less a little bit——” He was reading the note and talking to himself.

　　Till he read to ——“car maintenance 15,000 kuai, gasoline half year 24,000——” his voice was louder; he picked himself up.

　　“You don’t need to panic! Half a year we ran 16,000 km, you calculate to see, doesn’t it need to cost this much money on gasoline.”

　　“So, money we have earnt we have spent all, there’s no gain out of this hardship.” Jose looked very annoyed, his looks was like he was on a stage.

　　“Actually we did not waste any, clothes expense was none in the past half a year; expenses were all on eating out with friends, making photographs, long distance travelling; these have eaten up our money.”

　　“All right, starting from today, single friends we do not invite to dinner, photographs only do black and white, travelling also no more, this whole area of desert we have been through how many times.” Jose announced with very much determination.

　　This poor townlet, mentioning cinema there’s only one both dirty and broken, a little bit of bustle also not have, magazines received to hands are mainly outdated, television on average is broadcast two or three times a month, on which images are as terrible as ghosts, home alone people do not dare to watch, power-cut water-cut are as common as daily meal, like to take a walk around then whole day there is strong sandy wind blowing.

　　Days passed by here, except for Sahara people who take it at ease, Europeans most are alcoholism, husband and wife fighting, single persons commit suicide, very common, all these drama are caused by this life in the desert. Only us, can be considered as people who understand 'the art of living', hard days still we can endure, our living still can be considered as not too bad.

　　I was keeping quiet listened to Jose while he was making announcement on plan of expense cut. Then, I started to warn him: “This too economical, you are not afraid three months later we would either become crazy or commit suicide?”　

     Jose forced a smile: “Indeed, during holidays if we do not go out, we would be living sad to death.”　

  “Think about this, we do not go to Algeria that direction, travel inland no more; we go to the seaside. Why not take advantage of the over 1,000 km coastline here; we should go there to explore.”

　　“Go to the seaside, travel through the desert a round trip gasoline also costs a lot.”

      “Let’s go catch fish then, we do salted fish sun-dried, we can save money on food, also can lower money spent on gasoline.” My strength has always been solid, talking about playing, I never lose heart.

　　The following weekend, we carried tent, walked along the seaside to research nearly 100 km rock shore; at night we set up tent sleeping on the edge of the cliff.

　　Rock shore with no sand beach has a lot of good things, using ropes to hang on the edge of cliff was very convenient; when the tide had withdrawn, on the rock revealed barnacles, in between of the holes there were crabs, in the pool there were octopus, barred snake eel, trouts as-big-as-a-plate, also thousands of black seashells growing on the stone, we could recognize they were a kind of mussels, also fatty kelp which can be dried to make an ingredients for soup, driftwood could become a modern sculpture, little stones taken home put onto cardboard would become paintings. On this vast area of seaside, there was nobody around, was still intact and wealthy of resources.

　　“This is King Solomon's Treasure, we get rich now!” I jumped up and down on the shining rocks, yelling, so excited.

　　“This big pile of stones is for you, you collect quickly, tide has withdrawn.” Jose threw to me a bucket, a pair of gloves, a knife; he also put on diving suit, was about to dive into the sea to catch big fish.

　　Not up to one hour later, my bucket was filled up with mussels and barnacles, also 16 red colored big crab sized as big as small washing-basin; the bucket became so heavy, I used rocks to make a blocked jail, temporarily locked them inside. Kelps I collected a big pile.

　　When Jose went ashore, around his waist there was a string of up to 10 big fishes, light pink-colored ones.

　　“You see, not enough hands to catch, there are a lot.” Only at this moment I learnt the taste of being a greedy person.

　　Jose saw my big crab, again went to catch, got nearly 20 black-grey little crabs. He said: “The small one is called Nicholas, compared to big ones they are more delicious.”

　　The tide was gradually rising; we retreated to under the cliff, scraped off fish scales, washed the fish belly, full a big bag. I took trousers off, two trouser legs made a knot, poured all the crabs in, the bucket was also fastened on the rope, that way we climbed up the cliff. That weekend going out on exploration for the first time, could be considered as return with full load.

　　On the way home, I urged Jose: “Quick, quick, we drive back then call colleagues in the single dormitory to come for dinner.”

       “You do not do salted fish?” Jose asked.

　　“The first time doesn’t count, we invite friends, they normally also did not eat well.”

　　Hearing that, Jose was very happy; before arriving home even went to buy a case of beer, half a dozen of wine to invite friends.

　　Later, for several weekends, colleagues also wanted to come along to catch fish. We were very delighted, bought 10 kg beef, 5 Chinese cabbages, made 10 more quiche, also brought along an ice-box, a charcoal furnace, 5 big buckets, 6 pairs of gloves, also bought a case of coke, a carton of milk. Several cars were mighty on the road, running up and down along the coastline; at night we set up tents, ate grilled beef, talking, had a great time together; the plan of expense-cut was lost on the way. 

       In our little family, no one manages money. Money, we put in the pockets of a Chinese cotton jacket, who needs then go to take. Bills, if we remember to note down, then write on any piece of paper at hands, throw into a candy pot.

　　Went out to the seaside not many several times, the jacket pockets has become empty, candy pot has filled up with little by little pieces of paper slip. “Again, nothing left, really fast!” I held the jacket talked to myself.

　　“Initially going out to the seaside was to catch fish making salted fish to save money on food, wasn’t it? Result, even more spending.” Jose was puzzled scratching his head.

　　“Friendship is also priceless wealth.” I could only use these words to console him.　

      “Next week, we will simply go catch fish to sell.” Jose again determined.

　　“That’s right, fish we can eat so we can also sell! So smart, I did not think of it!” I jumped up, patted on Jose's head.

　　“Just need to earn enough to balance the expense we spent on playing, that would be good already.” Jose is not a greedy ambitious person.

　“Good, sell fish, next week we sell fish.” I was thinking big, hoping this time gain a fortune.

　　That Saturday early morning 4:30, we got on our car in the dark, set off on the road when it was freezingly cold outside, our teeth were trembling; raising our flag of high craftmanship, boldness, well knowing of the way, we firmly drove in the dark desert.

　　8 o’clock past in the morning, the sun has just arisen for a while, already we have arrived at the cliff; behind us an endless, mysterious, and quiet desert; in front of us stormy waves and cracked shore, the immense ocean and scattered rocks; blue sky was without a cloud, seabirds in flock flied to flied back, here and now a few bird voice, made it filled with even more emptiness and solitary all around.

　　Upturned the collar of my jacket, widen my shoulders, I looked up giving out a breath, kept this posture stood still.

　　“What are you thinking about?” Jose asked.

　　“How about you?” I also asked.

　　“I am imagining some realms depicted in ‘Jonathan Livingston Seagull’ that book."

　　Jose is a clear and bright spirit; this moment, this scenery, thinking of that book perfectly matches him.

　　“How about you?” He again asked.

　　“I am imagining, I was that one crazily in love with a handsome crippled military officer, I was about to go for a walk with him on this plateau, surroundings us was beautiful heather flowers everywhere, the wind was blowing in my hair, he was enthusiastically gazing at me—— romantic, again dramatic time!” I lamented.

　　Talking, again I closed my eyes, held myself in my own arms, sighed with satisfaction.

　　“You're playing today is ‘Ryan’s daughter’?” Jose asked.

       “Your guess is right. All right, now start to work.”

　　I clapped my hands, walked out pulling the rope, ready to climb down the cliff. Through these some wild imagination, getting down to work could get some excitement: this has been the way I came up with to adjust the dry boring life.

　　“Sanmao, today work seriously, you need to give good hands.” Jose was in earnest.

　　We were standing on the rocky edge; Jose went down diving; each time he caught a fish, rose up, he threw it to the waterside; I quickly came up to collect, kneed on the rock, I used a knife to scrape fish scales, washed fish belly, cleaned it up, then put the fish into a plastic bag.

　　Scraped two or three very big fish, my hands were already scratched bleeding, dip into sea water oddly hurtful.

　　Jose was under water floating sinking, continuously threw fish up onto shore; I worked recklessly, placed the well-cleaned fish lined up neatly in the bag.

　　“Earning money is not easy!” I shook my head talking to myself, knees started to swell red.

　　After quite a while, Jose just then arose to shore; I quickly brought him the milk to drink. He closed his eyes, lying on the rock, face was pale white.

　　“How many we've caught?” He asked.

　　“30 more, very big, about 60, 70 kilograms.”

　　“Catch no more, almost tired to death.” He again closed his eyes.

　　I poured the milk, saying: “We, like this, could be called amateur fishing people.

　　“Fish is meat, Sanmao.”

　　“What I am saying is not about meat and vegetable. Previously, in Paris there was a group of people, weekdays they go to work, weekends painting, they called themselves amateur painters. We, on weekends go catch fish, therefore called amateur fishing man, also not bad!”

　　“You are so fancy, catching fish you could also come up with some new title.” Jose was not very interested though.

　　Enough of rest, we took it in three rounds, carried the whole pile of fish, as big as a little mountain, up to the cliff; put them inside car back space, topped up with ice from the icebox. Looking at the desert under blazing sun shining, this more than 200 km road driving back, again was another hard trip; strange it was, this time not yet having much of fun, body was also exhausted.

      Car soon arrived in the townlet, I softly begged Jose: “All on you, let me get a little sleep before we go out to sell fish, please! So tired already!"

　 “Can’t. Fish could get stink. You go home to rest, I will sell. “ Jose said.

　　“Go to sell then we go together, I keep up a bit then get better now.” I just rather said.

　　Car passed by castle-like boundering walls of the National Hotel, I suddenly got an idea, loudly called ——“Stop——"

　　Jose stopped the car; I barefoot got off, turned my head to look inside the gate.　

     “Hello, hello, ——” I softly called to Antonio at the counter.

　  “Ah, Sanmao!” He greeted loudly.

　 “Shuzzz, do not shout, where’s the back door?” I softly asked him.

　“Back door? Why do you want to go back door?”

　　I have not yet explained, right at that time the hotel manager was walking by, I was so scared hiding myself behind a pillar; he turned his head looking, I could simply sneak out get back on our car parking outside.　

      “Can’t! I can’t sell, so embarrassed.” My face was straight.　

     “I go.” Jose slammed car door, strode into the hotel. Good Jose, really has a style.　

     “Hello, Sir, manager.” He took out his hands towards the manager to greet; the manager came to him; I hid myself behind Jose’s back.　

    “We have fresh fish, do you want to buy?” Jose sound plainly, face also not blush, I think there’s a bit pretending.

　　“What, you want to sell fish?” The manager stared at us, worn-out trousers, face revealing a lot of hardship, as if we were humiliating him.

　　“Want to sell fish you go side door, talk to the person in charge of the kitchen——” He pointed to the side door, sounded quite intimidating.

　　I immediately shyed a long way back, recklessly pulled Jose to get out, told him: “You see, he looked down on us, we go to another place to sell; later if there’s any party we still have to see the face of this manager——”

  　“This manager is a dickhead; no need to be afraid. Go, we go to the kitchen.”

　　Kitchen people all gathered up to look at us, seems very odd. “How much a kilogram?” finally there’s a buyer.

　　We glanced at one another, did not know what to say.

　　“Uhm, 50 kuai per kilogram.” Jose called a price.

　　“Yes, yes, 50 kuai.” I hastily added.

       “OK, I take 10 fish, we go to scale to see how much it weighs.” The person-in-charge was very gentle.

　　We were very glad, flying-like ran to the car, chose 10 big fish for him.

　  “This bill, after date 15th, you can take it to our accounting office to claim your money.　

     “You do not pay in cash?” We asked.

　 “We are a public agency, you understand understand please!” The person-in-charge shook our hands.

　We took the bill for selling the first batch of fish, worth over 1,000 kuai, looked then looked, then very carefully I put it into my trousers' pocket.

　　“OK, now we go to Sisters 'Hotel.” Jose said.

　　This 'Sisters' Hotel' is Sahara renowned place; they often provide meals to workers, at night selling wine, upstairs there are rooms for rent. From outside look very glamorous, inside all day playing popular music, lights are green coloured only; often there are groups of gorgeous white women doing business inside.

　　Road construction workers from Spain, once get salary paid, often go to Sisters’ Hotel to play, get drunken then be thrown out; salary of a month of hard work, more than half is spent to these women’s pocket.

　　To the hotel door, I told Jose: “You go inside, I wait outside.” Waited almost 20 minutes, not seen Jose came out.

　　I carried one fish, also walked in; right in time I saw, behind the counter, a sexy 'sister' was feeling Jose’s face; Jose- like a leather-head bird- was standing. I strode to, fiercely straight face shouted to the woman: “Buy fish or not, 500 kuai per kilogram.” Also I put the fish carried in hand heavily slammed on the bar counter, made a loud bang.

　　“How come wildly raise the price; your husband has just said 50 kuai per kilogram.”

　　I stared at her; thought to myself: you dare to touch Jose’s face again, I'd increase price to 5,000 kuai per kilogram.

　　Jose pushed me out of the hotel, softly said: “You really know how to cause trouble; I almost had all the fish sold to her.”

 　　“Not buy then leave it, you sell fish or sell yourself? Even let her touch your face.” I raised my hands up to hit Jose, he knew he was on the wrong side, hold his head and let me hit.

　　Calmed down, again I rushed into the hotel taking back that fish we had left on the bar counter.

　　The sun was high on the sky; we were under the heat, hungry, and thirsty, also exhausted, also angry with one another; I was about to think of throwing away all the fish, only was speechless.

　“Do you remember Pug at the Sahara army group kitchen? “I asked Jose.

　“You are thinking of selling to the army group?”

    “Yes.”

　Jose did not say a word, drove towards Sahara army group’s camp site; not arrived at the army living quarter yet, we saw Pug right at that time was walking on the road.

    “Pug.” I loudly called out to him.

  “Do you want to buy fresh fish?” I was so much hopeful, asked.

　“Fish, where?” He asked.

    “Inside our car, there are more than 20.”

　Pug stared at me, shook his head strongly. “Sanmao, more than 3,000 persons in this army group, eat your more than 20 fish, enough?” He rejected.

      “This is not necessarily; you first take to cook to see! Jesus’ 5 cakes, 2 fish, were enough to feed his more than 5,000 persons; how do you say?” I again asked him.

　　“Let me tell you, you go to post office front door to sell; over there most people passing by.” Pug showed us a way out. Of course, our selling target is Europeans; Sahara people do not eat fish.

     So we again went to the stationery shop, bought a black board, a few pieces of chalk, again to an acquainted grocery we borrowed a scale.　　

    On the black board, we drewn a jumping red fish, again wrote "Fresh fish for sale, 50 kuai per kilogram.”

　 When we drove to the post office front door, already 5 o’clock in the afternoon; air-mails, air-packages were arriving; a large crowd of people was there opening their mail-box, very much bustling. We stopped the car, put the black board in front of car window, car back door was opened up. Completed with these, face already blushed quite a lot; we ran to the sidewalk across the street to sit down, not even dare to look at walking people on the street.

　　A crowd of people one group to another walked by; no one stopped to buy fish. Sitting there for a while, Jose said to me: “Sanmao, didn’t you say we are amateur people? Amateurs don’t have to live by selling spare-time stuff!”

　     “Go home?” Really I also ran out of energy.

　　Right at that time, a colleague of Jose walked by, saw us he came to greet: “Ah! Out for fresh air?”

　　“No.” Jose shyly stood up.

　　“Are selling fish.” I pointed to our car on opposite side across the road.

　　This colleague was a single, also a rough-and-ready kind person. He walked out taking a look at the black board, again looked at car back space, got the situation, immediately he walked back, grasped us both across the street to the opposite site.

　　“Selling fish ah, you need to calling out to sell! You two are shy like this do not work. Come, come, I'll help you.” This colleague in passing hands pulled a fish out, held it in his hand, yelled at high pitch: “Yu——yo, sell fresh fish yo! 75 kuai per kilogram yo ——aiyo——fish ah!” He even took his own initiative raised the price.

　　The crowd was attracted by his yelling, immediately gathered up around; we overjoyed at the turn of our selling: more than 20 fish was a little thing, just after a while all were sold out.

　　We were sitting on the ground counting money, more than 3,000 kuai; then again looked around for Jose’s colleague; he has already walked far away with a grin.

      “Jose, we should remember to thank him!” I told Jose.

　　Back to home, we were already exhausted. After a shower, I was in a towel yukata to the kitchen boiled a wok, put in a pack of noddle.

　　“Eat this?” Jose was unhappily.

　　“Just let's eat something. I'm almost exhausted to death.” I in fact did not even want to eat any.　

       “From early morning working that hard till now, you only gave me noddle, not eat.” He was mad, put on clothes to go out.

　　“Where are you going?” I shouted.

　　“I go eating out.” He said firmly, sound as hard as cement.

　　I could only also change clothes, chased him up, together we went out; the so-called eating out, of course could only be one place to go—— restaurant at the National Hotel.

　　At the restaurant, I whispered to Jose: “This world there’s only you this kind of person. Order the least expensive dish, do you hear me?”

　　Right at that moment, one of Jose’s bosses was clapping hands walking over, loudly he called out: “What a coincidence! What a coincidence! I am having no companion for dinner tonight; we three persons together then.” He by himself was talking and taking a seat.

　　“I heard today kitchen has fresh fish; how do you think, we take three fish to taste, this kind of fresh fish, not often seen around here in the desert.” He was again by himself talking.

　　The boss, accustomed to being a boss, forgot that he should also look at other people's face. Not a word to us yet, he said to the waitress: “Salad, 3 fish, wine, now, deserts later.”

　　The person-on-duty in the dining hall was exactly the one at noon in the kitchen buying fish from us; he was accidentally walking by our table, seeing Jose and I we were eating the fish we sold which now were served on dish at 20 times more of the price; his jaw dropped, like he was looking at two crazy people.  

　　After the dinner, we and Jose’s boss competed for the bill, result Jose won, used up the money from selling fish at the post office front door to pay, only left some change money. Just then I sensed, these fish no matter was sold at 50 or 75 kuai per kilogram, was still sold at such a loss; we, after all, were in the desert.

　　The following day early morning, we overslept till late. I got up making some coffee, washing clothes; Jose was still on bed, saying to me: “Lucky, still we have that bill at the National Hotel we can collect; otherwise yesterday a whole day was miserable enough; gasoline cost we also had to offset, not to mention so much tireness and hard work.”

　“You're saying the bill——that bill——”

 　I screamed, rushed to the bathroom, washing machine had already closed; out of the load covered up with soap foam, I took out my trousers, put my hands in the pockets to feel the inside——that bill has already been soaked with water, become soft and white a little heap; want to put them together also could not anymore.

　　“Jose, the last fish has also slipped away! We again will have to eat potato cake then.” I sat on the stone steps of the bathroom, crying and laughing out.

[ End of story ]

Image below: Home-grown new bloom. Photographed by Tâm Anh, on 13 August 2021.