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my mini collection

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Fashion Show

Yesterday was the day of the fashion show! I was very happy with the way mine looked and how it came across on the runway. For my choreography, I wanted to make sure there wasn't too much stopping, but instead a lot of movement and crossing over as what I was trying to communicate was movement, with dancing and how that's shown on my garments. I chose the song Born Slippy by Underworld as it's the final song on the film Trainspotting, which is a film about drug abuse and the song has become an anthem for young people and clubbers, and so I felt it was very apt. As me and my model were walking down the runway and the music kicks in I feel really good about my outfits and that my concept is put across well. I really thought about my styling as well as without it the message perhaps wouldn't have been as clear. Both models were wearing doc martens which to me are a symbol of youth and rebellion. Both were equipped with a pair of big glasses (one black, one holographic red) to represent when people wear sunglasses in the club when their high. Both also had a cross earring to obviously represent the links with religion through my concept. Then for the outfit I was wearing (the jeans) I had one belt on to keep the trousers up and another belt around my waist, along with a neck choker. To me, this was a subtle nod towards the sexual side of religion and nightlife, which perhaps can be a bit more taboo. Finally, under the transparent trousers I had the underwear that I bedazzled to say RIVER in Gothic font, to mainly just get my name in my collection and brand it. Overall, I'm so happy with how it all turned out. The only thing I would've done differently, is if both models were wearing exactly the same type of doc martens (the Jadon boot), and if I had one or two more belts around my torso. Other than that I wouldn't change a thing.

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Thinks and Thoughts 21/04/17

Over Easter I wasn't able to get as much as I wanted to do, so coming back on Wednesday I did feel a bit stressed and behind on my work - I needed to sample but wasn't sure where to start. I had purchased some fabric over Easter which I knew I wanted to use but wasn't sure how. So I decided to sketch some quick designs of ideas I had, from there I looked at the shapes and silhouettes I was using and then looked at Y Projects AW17 collection which played with manipulating and warping the fabric, quite similar to how my designs looked. From there I was able to sample a lot more and that really got me going. I also started to look into attaching the material together with seams and poppers. I'm feeling a lot more inspired with my project and my aim for next week is to continue sampling, have my final collection designed and even start pattern cutting.

[riverfmp]

How to design a collection

What makes a collection?

Colour, print, fabric, concept, storyline, all could work together

What is needed to design a collection?

+ Market research, who you are designing for and whether what you’re going to make will be fitting for your target audience; people who would be invited to the catwalk: celebrities, press, other designers

+ Inspiration and influence, links to context criteria, gives us to something to work towards and gives us a clear idea for our collection, it’s what makes collections flow, influences can be historical, futuristic, artistic, political

+ Colour, palettes or story can show the theme and make the collection look like a collection, colours can also represent a meaning and symbolism

+ Trend forecasting, so that you can design ahead, sourcing inspiration from going out and researching what is current and on trend, not only from WGSN but from the public

+ Fabric sourcing, new inspiration, new sources, new trends, need to revamp and change it up

+ Development, problem solving criteria, sampling and experimenting, changing silhouettes and colours

+ Editing, starting to evaluate what you have done, deadlines approaching, there needs to be an editing time

+ Teamwork, feedback, talk to peers about collection and see what they think, collaborating for hair and makeup or graphics, printing studio

+ Showing the collection, end of the process, must be high standard and really shows what you’ve worked towards

SS16 Calvin Klein - clever use of social media and celebrities, hitting target audience and keeping it fresh from previous seasons

SS17 Laurence and Chico - clear colour palette, matching prints, the styling is very clear in showing that it is a collection

AW17 Laurence and Chico - inspired by sleep and dreams and travelling in the sky

AW17 Jill Stuart - collection inspired by a golden hand and broach, the flora used, bits of gold, the frills, historical

AW17 Eckhaus Latta - unisex, considerate designing so that each gender can wear it, the prints and colours are quite different, similar with the high neck and long baggy trouser, the shoes all matching

AW17 Mara Hoffman - inspired by ‘unity’, primary and neon colours, patterns (stripes and prints), people are in black and white, bold shapes to the clothes, activeness to the poses and shapes they’re posing in

AW17 Chanel - giant rocket lifted off at the end of the show, all covered, collar shapes like a helmet and space suit, headbands, glitter and shiny

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Thinks and thoughts 17/03/17

This week I have really focused on getting my proposal and research sorted. I feel like I have had a productive week and I'm definitely feeling really positive about this whole project at the moment. In regards to the tasks I set myself for me to complete by this week, I had definitely got a lot more research that is looking into context and exploring different aspects of my concept. Although I haven't done exactly what I said to do, I don't think that it is a priority as my research has taken a slightly different turn. Today I created my customer profile, so I have a clear idea of who my target audience is when it comes to designing and such. I was very happy with how this turned out and so far I think I am on the right track. For next week, I really want to continue with my visual recordings but start to explore them in more depth and create samples, along with analysis for all of them. I will make sure that these all link to my customer profile and research, which I will also expand on as I need to discuss what kind of collection I want to create, whether it's ready-to-wear, high fashion, for an art gallery, or avant-garde etc.

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Group proposals and feedback 16/03/17

Add visual responses to my research throughout my book, it will make it more clear when I start to design and get ideas for my designs etc.

Start experimenting with materials and fabrics and textures throughout my whole book, with links to visual recordings and research.

Have a look at the exact opposites for Christianity and Jesus Christ, such as Satanism.

More analysis and evaluation for my visual recordings, look at where and how I’m going to show that in my book whilst still keeping it visual.

Look into my target audience and market, who I’m making it for and what kind of garments I want to make.

Overall, doing the group proposal pitch and feedback really helped me and gave me more ideas for how I can really push my project even further. Although I may not do all the ideas my peers gave me, I do think that most of them are helpful and even the ones I won’t do still have given me many ideas on how I can expand my project so far. Regarding the ‘character project’, I feel like I have used respect because I have had to really think about being respectful with the context of my work, even if I still want to be controversial and take risks. In terms of communication, I feel like my research has communicated my concept for my project well, although I really need to try and create more visual responses to communicate my response to my concept. I feel like I have quite a lot of drive at the moment with this project as I am really enjoying it and feeling very inspired, I just need to keep going and be determined with it all the way through. I’m not sure how responsibility fits into my project so far, although I will definitely start taking responsibility for my work, and even if someone may get offended by my project, I will have to take responsibility for this and figure out a way to resolve it. I’m not sure what it means by people, however, I assume that it means involving others in my project, and so far I have done this first group crit for my proposal which I have found very helpful, and in the future I will do more group crits with my peers to help improve my work. Finally, I feel like I have grit with the project, I think I have chosen quite an ‘intense’ and controversial concept which is going to be quite hard to pull off, but I think when I do, it will be quite amazing and I hope to really create something that I will be so proud of.

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Thinks and thoughts 10/03/17

So far, I have continued with my research and my project proposal and it has started to all come together and become very clear. Yesterday although we spent the whole day focusing on the end of year show, and although that was interesting, important and quite exciting, I do now feel a little bit behind. By next week, I really want to complete my research - obviously throughout my project I may discover things that are very relevant to my project and I will refer to them as such, but by next Friday, I want my research to be clear in context and puts my concept across. To do this, I am going to do some primary research, exploring fashion in clubs which I will record by taking pictures of people when I go out, and then relate that to perhaps a stereotypical idea of what rave fashion is. I would also like to get some primary research of religious places such as churches or statues, which will be very beneficial for me when I begin to do visual recordings and designs for my final collection. I also need to do some more secondary research from resources other than the internet. 

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Thinks and thoughts 26/02/17

Discussing my concept with Liz, I actually discovered that I had set myself a bit of a challenge. Although I’ve had concept for this final major project in my head for a while, actually having to pin-point it to one specific thing found to be quite difficult. Knowing that I wanted to focus on Jesus Christ as the main subject, and then also about homosexuality and drugs/alcohol, I began to think of what link they all have. The term ‘behind closed doors’ came to be as this is something that they can relate to; for homosexuality, hiding who you truly are in fear of being ridiculed or abused; for chemsex, literally having drug infused sex behind closed doors, in bedrooms, in an attempt to feel some intimacy through the numbness.

Recently, I have been to a few clubs and raves and began to think of youth and how when they go out and are in that space with people similar to them, they can let go and be who they want and forget about everything in their own mundane life. I feel quite confident with where I am going with the project at the moment, although I still need to continue with my research and really refine my concept and ideas.

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End of year presentations

Seasons: colour schemes would suit everyones work, styles can also be put into groups, although could be confusing to differentiate. Catwalk, split into the seasons with different lighting and music to match, parasols and umbrellas can be used for summer and winter but also helpful if it rains. Look book and film, edges of the look book split into seasons to colour coordinate with the garments, easy to look for the one you want to see, one location for the photoshoot as film, cardboard cut outs would be used to represent seasons more clearly. Locations may be hard to find to suit each season. Installation, feature wall with garments along it, split again by seasons and colour, although it may look quite confusing with all the garments all together.

Equality and Identity: race, gender, diversity. Catwalk, everyone will wear a mask so that everyone looks the same, the colour of the garment will link to the colour of the mask, use a range of diverse models, fashion film is positive new reports about different stereotypes of people around the world, this new report will play over the music during the catwalk. Placards with the catwalk to be held up as a protest. Look book will contain descriptive piece about each garment under each picture. Exhibition, blinds will be shut and there would be coloured cellophane around the lights to create different colours. Display each persons work in whatever way links to their work. Not sure how I feel about the masks, I feel like to celebrate diversity, covering peoples faces isn’t celebrating that. They didn’t have a colour scheme which is something that would need to be considered.

Eden: idea of growth with us as a group, our growth through the course but also how we are still growing. Using the Eden Project as a collaboration and perhaps doing the fashion film there. Installation, people coming out of plant pots...but then once the show is over then putting mannequins in plant pots to display the garments. Props; plant pots, fake flowers, grassy backgrounds and soil scattered on the floor. Promotion, keeping it green, using only digital to send invites etc. Eden Project can potentially promote us if they want to collaborate. Or use paper, which is in the shape of flowers or leaves. Lighting, pink spotlights, in plants, leaked light through blinds, spotlights on each students work.

2080′s: inspired by Neon Demon, fashion film inspired by the aesthetic and visuals of the film. Very 80′s inspired, neon lighting used in the exhibition and possibly catwalk. Look book would be 80′s inspired which may be quite hard with people working with natural colours, the 80′s is obviously close to the heart of our parents who will be coming to the show and so it links us together. I like the idea of the 2080′s as it could be our future as students.

Fashion Loves: Using fashion to raise awareness of acceptance and to educate people as we are privileged to be in education. Most people’s concepts are tackling issues such as racism, body image etc. Models carrying placards down the runway, creating happy memories, people wearing t-shirts saying ‘love accepts’ etc. to create more awareness and publicity. Not sure what styling or look book would be like, not very clear.

Rush Hour: Equality in the work place, cardboard brief cases with stuff written on it, although people could perhaps take the concept in the wrong way, small cost and cheap to create briefcases, although cardboard could get damaged. For the look book the props could be reused although if they want to do the look book shoot outside people in underwear may feel uncomfortable. Look book would have our own CV style profile of us and our concept. Exhibition, have it like a business style, although could look plain but also could look like a school still. Invites would be business cards which are really cool and could have social media on the cards.

Secret Garden: Because of the location of our show, being in the courtyard and time of the year, it all links to the idea of nature and having our own secret space. Invitation, having little keys to the secret garden which could be really effective but quite expensive, although a brown envelope with petals would be cute. Refreshments that link to nature such as rose lemonade and flower cakes. Flower wall thats easy to make and quite effective and would create the concept inside our room where the exhibition is going to be. Styling with flowers in the hair, although it may not go with everyones theme. Makeup would be simple with perhaps just one colour repeated. Gift bags with roses/flowers, petals, look book, sweets etc. Flower arch for outside. Promotion with instagram. Look book with brown paper and natural themes, everyones able to show their work. Photographing the process from the start and hanging the photos from the trees to show everyones journey. Fashion film in the Eden Project, although it would look amazing, it would be very pricey and looking at health and safety for it would be difficult.

[riverfmp]

What is the end of year show?

For the fashion show, I would love it so that it showcased all of our work as a team and our journey as a class. I would really like us to be able to have a fashion show, fashion film, look book and an exhibition. Obviously all linking with our theme. Our theme also clearly seen in our styling, makeup, set design, and just overall aesthetic.

I think it’s important to have a fashion show, to show off our creations but also our hard work. It’s also a celebration of the end of our course but also a new start for everyone, whether they’re going off to university or travelling or working. It’s a celebration for us all.

The show is not only for us, but our friends and family. People that have supported us through these two years who can come to see what we’ve worked towards. Press may be coming as well which will be helpful for us to get our work there. Lecturers of the university to see who they may be teaching in the future. We want these people to enjoy themselves and feel comfortable, but also perhaps feel inspired by our work.

The advantages of being part of the whole cross college show is that we have more audience who will be seeing our work, like family and friends who will be seeing other’s work, but then may be interested in having a look at fashion and perhaps may become really inspired by it. Although the disadvantage is that we our right at the top of our building is that people won’t see our show first and perhaps may not see it at all. We will need to find a way of fixing this.

To make our show successful, we need a strong concept to really make the show visually successful, but also teamwork. If we are able to listen to each other and help each other, if we all have work to show and are able to support each other, the show could be amazing!

There are many types of shows we could consider using; exhibition, catwalk, film, performance, installation, livestream etc. I think that doing a livestream would be really successful, as it is something very current and that everyone can access.

I think that being at the forefront of fashion, there is a lot of expectation for us to be amazing and really create something spectacular that is new and exciting - I think that this is both an advantage, because we will have a lot of people watching us and wanting to see what we create, although it may be a disadvantage because that means we do have pressure on us to create something that won’t disappoint. Also, not just being a fashion department, but for fashion in general, it is important for us to stay on trend and create something spectacular and new.

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How does the end of year show link to the assessment criteria?

When it comes to the end of year show, we will be assessed on our selection, organisation and communication of ideas. Demonstrating our personal style and use of available resources to communicate our ideas to an intended audience. For me, this will be something that I need to think about because my work can be quite controversial and so when planning how I’m going to present my work, I will have to think about the intended audience of my work (which are the people coming to see our show), rather than my target audience of my work.

Regarding the planning and production aspect of our assessment criteria, we will also be assessed on our planning and negotiation, engagement and commitment. Our commitment to this show and also the whole course in general is taken into consideration when our work is marked and graded at the end.

Finally, in relation to problem solving, how we show a demonstration of initiative in solving problems, implementing creative solutions and adapting to unforeseen challenges to achieve our goals. I think that because of the space we have, this will definitely be something that we discuss and that we will have to think about and discuss.

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Fashion and politics

What is government? - To me, government is a system that creates rules and regulations for a society.

I think that democracy as political system is probably the best and most fair way for a country. Obviously in the UK we follow a democratic system and so I may be biased but I do think that because there is a voting system and that the person with the highest votes wins, I think that is as fair as it gets. Whereas in a country like North Korea where they have a dictator, they do not have any choice when voting, and especially in North Korea they have no media, social media and aren’t allowed to leave the country - their dictator must remain in a good light and as a great person.

1558-1603, BOMBASTING - both men and women padded their clothes/sleeves to make them appear very big to symbolise power and wealth. They padded their clothes with whatever they could find; rags, hair, sawdust. Queen Elizabeth I brought in laws that dictated what colours and materials certain people could wear depending on class.

King Louis XIV, wearing a huge, wig to appear big and powerful - it came about due to the increasing number of shyllipis where he had no hair.

The Dior Silhouette - during the second world war, women had to wear trousers and go to work whilst their husbands were away, once they came back, men wanted to put them back in their place, therefore the Dior silhouette came about which made women look feminine and extravagant.

Chinese feet binding - Women’s feet were broken and bound and put into tiny shoes so they could only take tiny steps, it was meant to be appealing to their husband and was also just part of their tradition. Although this is tradition and something that I never grew up around, I have to say I think this is horrific as it is basically mutilation. Even though today you could argue that people mutilate their bodies through piercings and tattoos, with the foot binding it is most about power and control with men.

Margaret Thatcher - Shoulder pads, created to give more volume and give women broader shoulders to make them look more powerful and even more masculine.

Punk - It was a form of anarchy that went against everything that was normal and mundane. Even though some punks used physical actions of anarchy to show their beliefs, many of them used fashion to represent that.

Katherine Hamnet - The first person to put slogans on t-shirts to convey a message, less conceptual with silhouettes and materials to convey a meaning. This was in the 1980′s.

Chanel SS15 - feminist catwalk, it could show the beliefs of Karl Largerfield and that he really believes in feminism, or could perhaps just be doing it because it is “on trend” and that he would get a lot of media coverage because of it. However, even if that is the reason why he is doing it, he is still promoting and raising awareness for feminism.

Religion - In some religions there are specific items of clothing that they have to wear to cover up, whereas in some collections such as Jean Paul Gaultier, they used religious icons on their garments, which isn’t essentially in a bad way but could still be seen as disrespectful.

Overall, I think that fashion and politics can be a very risky area - it seems like you can’t really do something different or out-there without crossing the line of being controversial or offensive. It is a very tricky thing because there is whether you can differentiate between something being exciting, a little bit controversial and risk-taking, or being plain offensive. This is something that I will definitely be thinking about when it comes to my project because I am looking into Christianity and Jesus Christ, and also taboo subjects such as homosexuality, sex, parties etc. Unlike Gaultier and Gabanna who used religious symbols and icons on their clothes, my inspiration is more conceptual.

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Marmite; I feel like my strengths for critical analysis is definitely that I have strong opinions and therefore can put across my argument confidently and have many good, valid and descriptive points.

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Marmite: Fashion or not? This image is from Balenciaga's Ready to Wear SS17 collection. This is fashion because honestly there is no reason why you wouldn't call it fashion. I think it is something bold and original, which is what makes fashion exciting. Collections that show something different and even a bit controversial are ones that are remembered and go on to inspire other brands and artists. Fashion can be comfortable and uncomfortable, it can be crazy and completely normal. This is showing what looks like a latex poncho, which obviously serves a function in that it is going to keep you protected from the rain, but would also be quite uncomfortable due to the material - none of this makes it less 'fashion' than something like a cheap plastic poncho or a latex bondage suit (again, both of these are fashion). Fashion is also responding to current trends and also creating their own. I think the main goal of fashion is to push the boundaries and break barriers, which this outfit is trying to do.

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Marmite: What is design?

I think that design is something that serves a function and is create to be used rather than admired. With my final major project, although I want to create an outfit and design, I still want my work to be admired and have a strong concept. It will be functional as it is something that you wear, and it will have a target audience, but it could also be seen as art as it will have a meaning to it and seen as a piece of art.

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Marmite: What is art to me?

Art to me is something that inspires me and excites me, but even when it doesn't, it is something with a concept. It is a message that someone wants to put across but has no other way of doing so other than painting or taking a photograph. On the other hand, I also don't think art has to have a meaning, I think it can just be aesthetically pleasing and can be created just because the artist wanted to. In my FMP, I will definitely have a concept as that is the kind of art I am most drawn to, but also pay attention to the aesthetics and perhaps expanding the way my art is perceived.

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Marmite; I have chosen 'Eres Lo Que Lees' Guillermo Vargas, 2007, which translates as 'you are what you read'. I think this is a very interesting and controversial piece as the dog was left in the museum and eventually starved to death. Although this is a horrible thing to happen to a living creature, I do think it is art as it conveys a message and a meaning. Hundreds of visitors of the museum walked past the dog everyday and no one stopped to feed it or see if it was alright. The title 'you are what you read' was made out of dog biscuits and perfectly explains what you could have done. You are reading the food and therefore could feed the dog.