rtwlovers

[rtwlovers]

Switzerland, Swiss-chic and Swiss-pensive

We’re lucky to have wonderful friends and family. And we have no issue riding their coattails to fabulous opportunities.  For example: when Ryan’s sister got an opportunity to be a visiting resident at the Paul Scherrer Institute in Zurich for the summer, we decided to crash in her apartment and make a family trip out of it!

Zurich is a fabulous city and the center of Switzerland life.  It has everything we love about cities: convenient and efficient transportation, exceptional restaurants, world class museums, and activities of all types.  Our favorite attractions won’t surprise anyone:  Chocolates and Clocks!  To satisfy the clock enthusiast, we recommend you visit the clock and watch museum, which was absolutely fascinating.  Displaying the history of clocks that starts at about 1400 BC, this museum spans the diversity and necessity of timekeeping.

Of course a highlight in Zurich is simply experiencing the city, whether its sampling the delicious food trucks at the Guter Garten Festival, picnicking along the gorgeous Limmat River, or jumping into the river from an overhanging bridge (we weren’t the only ones!).  Zurich also has tons of attractions just outside the city, and our favorite was the easy 2-hour hike from Uetliberg to Felsenegg, which is easily accessible by train.

Our first stop outside of Zurich was the fantastic Zermatt, where we stayed at one of our favorite hotels Coeur des Alpes.  They have a fabulous penthouse apartment where we stay together and even cooked a delicious family meal.  The included breakfast was spectacular, and the décor is quintisential Swiss chic!  The basement spa was glamorous and a treat. Worth noting that most spa sections are co-ed, which was a little too much for this American to handle!

Zermatt is a skiing town in the winter and a hiking town in the summer.  We took a cable car up to enjoy hikes around the spectacular Materhorn peak.  We swear the air added years to our life.  We lunched at the chic Chez Vrony, and vowed to come back in the winter to enjoy the apres ski life!

Our other destination outside of Zurich was a highlight.  We took a train to a town outside of Bern for an unforgettable glamping experience at La Pinte du Vieux Manoir. This was absolutely one of our most glamorous glamping stays.  The property boasts a Michelan star chef who prepares all meals, both in their farm-to-table restaurant and a breakfast delivered straight to our cabin! The property is set on a gorgeous lake, and there is a two-bedroom lake house or a tree house option.  We even took a quick turn across the lake at a neighboring vineyard and, since Switzerland produces exceptional wine but doesn’t export it, stocked up on some souviners to take home.   Read more about our experience here. 

While our time in Switzerland was brief, it was the perfect bridge back to civilization and home. Our trip certainly ended much different than how it began in Africa, but that contrast was present with every new continent we visited. No matter the differences, all held tremendous value, and we’re grateful that each place showed us it’s culture. What they shared will be a part of us forever.

[rtwlovers]

Snobbing it in France

If you could go anywhere in the world, where would you go?

That was the original question we asked ourselves. But when reaching the end of our trip, and our intended destination (Turkey) was too unstable, plus we discovered we were under budget, we asked ourselves a different question. If you could go anywhere in the world to treat yourself, where would you go. Ryan picked Scandinavia. Blakely picked France.

We spent a delicious 5 weeks in France. We’d both been to France before, but this is a country and a culture that deserves as many trips as you can allow. And our type of travel provided an entirely different way to see and experience this fabulous country. We’d get to travel slowly, and (since we’d already seen the big attractions ) we’d spend our time on the equally enthralling museums and sights that a quick trip doesn’t allow.

So we started with a week in Paris. Then a week road trip down to Bordeaux. Then back to Paris for a week. Then train to Provence. Then a drive through the south of France. This can’t be emphasized enough: It was fabulous.

Blakely developed a healthy obsession with impressionism, so in Paris we started with the Musee d’Orsay, which holds the largest collection of impressionist masterpieces in the world. To add to the appeal for Ryan, the museum is housed in a former railway station, so the architecture is unique and beautiful. Spending some major quality time with the greats gave us the introduction we needed to appreciate Impressionism and make it one of the themes of our trip.

Of course, if impressionism is the theme, we also had to stop by the Musee de l’orangerie. This museum holds many impressionist and post-impessionist paintings, but it is most famous as the permanent home of the eight large water lily murals painted by Claud Monet. The Water Lily series consists of approximately 250 oil paintings by Monet depicting his flower garden at his home. Painted at the end of his life, they’re a fascinating study of light and nature. If Blakely developed an obsession with impressionism, it culminated with Monet and the water lilies. More on that later.

We stayed in a few places in Paris, but started with Hotel du Nord—an incredibly charming hotel with a rich history starting in 1912. Each room is unique, comfortable, and reasonable (a RTWLovers triple threat). Located in the Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood, it was also walking distance to some incredible restaurants (though this is Paris, so EVERYTHING is walking distance to incredible restaurants!). Our first dinner was at the Verre Vole, which specializes in their wine selection and has a menu that is different for every meal. It essentially embodies everything we love about French culinary culture!

After a standardly wonderful café breakfast, we headed to Les Puces de Saint-Ouen, which is the largest and most famous flea market in Paris. One of the best things about France is the flea markets, which disgrace the markets of the same name anywhere else. Not your weird aunt’s itchy sweater from the 70s, this market holds silver, lace, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, chandeliers, EVERYTHING fine and glamorous. All in an understated and slightly snobby French way. Be sure to read up on tips before you attempt a visit because it is HUGE!

Of course afterwards we took bikes around the canal, which was fabulously flat and charming at every turn.

We moved accommodations to one of our hotel highlights from the entire trip. L’Hotel. Situated in the most glamorous neighborhood in Paris (St Germain-des-Pres), L’Hotel was built in 1828 and holds history as rich as Paris itself. Oscar Wilde took up residence at the end of the 19th century and lived there until his death. Each room is unique and spectacular. We were given L’Apartment on the top floor and proceeded to live our Parisian dream! The hotel has an incredible private pool downstairs that was like stepping into a different world. You can read more about it in Blakely’s article on Honeymoons.com, or book a flight and see for yourself!

One of the best parts of staying in St Germain was the opportunity to eat dinner at Le Fregate, which is where we ate for a brief layover on our honeymoon. It makes for fabulous people watching and delicious eating!

We rented a car for our next leg, and can’t recommend that enough. The ability to stop, take detours, or simply gawk is a priceless opportunity. You’ll find the random villages along your route are as charming as your destination!

We headed out of town for our first glamping experience of France (yes, we had more than just one!). This one was on a gorgeous farm with two lovely hosts that cooked us wholesome French home cooking and showed us gorgeous French countryside sights. You can read about it here.

Next, we went to the most romantic destination we experienced in France (YES), another glamping experience on a truffle farm in Southern France. The place is called Pella Roca, and from the breakfast basket, private jacuzzi, and stunning décor, it was AMAZING. You can read more here.

One of the best things about renting a car is the ability to see these tiny French villages built on hilltops hundreds of years ago. One such town was Puylaroque, where we went for dinner while staying at Pella Roca. Our meal at Les Sens was as delicious as it was beautiful!

We had one more glamping stop on this leg (YES there are more!). The unforgettable stay at the domes of Les Gouttes Deau—this was SUCH a cool experience! Gazing at the stars in a climate controlled environment with a breakfast basket delivered in the morning is exactly the experience glamping allows!

We stopped by the charming town of Saint Puy where we got to visit their gorgeous convent. We stayed at La Lumiane B&B, a refreshingly calm place where we could rest before our next big stop: Bordeaux!

So, a lot goes into planning a trip like this. And yet, so much is left to chance. Which is good. Because then you get the lovely surprise to be in Bordeaux for the exact same days as the Bordeaux Wine Festival, which happens every other year!

Just the drive into Bordeaux is swoon worthy, with breathtaking chateaux and vinyards where even dusty travelers like us can stop for lunch. This is one place where the drive is a destination unto itself. Though you can experience Bordeaux on your own, we definitely recommend taking a tour so you can hit more in the time you have. We went with the Medoc wine tour and loved the range and the group.

Our next stop was another glamping one and also one of our favorites: Les Clos de Saires. One of the best aspects of glamping is the people you meet because glamping attracts the very best. The owners of Les Clos are two of our favorite people from the trip. They not only host glampers in their luxurious tents but also host guests in their B&B. We got to share dinners with them and hear stories about the heart of French culture, and we could’ve never gotten this anywhere else. You can read more about our glamping experience at Les Clos de Siares here. The hotel is conveniently close to the castles of the Loire Valley, which are a must see!

We closed our loop back to Paris at two of our absolute favorite stops. First: Giverny. The impressionism obsession was far from over, and one of Blakely’s priorities was seeing the gorgeous garden where Monet created the Water Lillies. The home and garden are an art exhibit in themselves, and show the personality and taste of one of the greatest artists of all time. Monet was quoted as saying that his garden was his greatest masterpiece, and we don’t disagree.

Lastly, we spent a day at a place that needs no description or introduction: Versailles. Yes, we’d already been there. But this is our trip, and we do what we want. And frankly, why would you resist?

Next: We headed back to Paris and the style of living we like best: city life! We started in an AirBNB, which is a site we used many times and highly recommend since you can read reviews and truly “live” in a place. The neighborhood we picked this time was Ille de la Cite, which is an island at the heart of Paris and the sight of the stunning Notre Dame. The cathedral dominates its surroundings, and never fails to call eyes and thoughts upwards. We were devastated to hear about the fire, but know that if ever there was a people who could rebuild a masterpiece, it’s the French. Just PLEASE don’t make it like the Louvre Pyramid. Merci.

One of the best parts about traveling this way is experiencing a place as if you’re a native celebrating the weekend. So we visited flower markets, had picnics, sipped in cafes, and simply walked this amazing city.

We also loved seeing the Paris Pride Parade, which was a favorite parade of ours when we lived in the West Village. The parade was shortly after the horrific shooting in Orlando, and many people waved American flags in signs of solidarity with the U.S.

Our next stop in Paris was the Joyce Hotel in the Montmartre neighborhood, a large hill on the right bank of Paris (read more about the hotel in Blakely’s article here). Of course, the main attraction here was Sacre-Coeur Basilica, which is the highest point in the city and one of the best attractions. It’s a gorgeous cathedral with, of course, spectacular views of Paris. It also has a charming market, where we got two of our favorite paintings from the trip!

Another must of the neighborhood is the Palais Garnier opera house—a gorgeously opulent theater that is considered a symbol of Paris itself (though other attractions like the Louvre and Notre Dame often take precedent!). Its fame could largely be credited to the fact that it is the setting for The Phanton of the Opera, and this is certainly what attracted us most! The theater is still used for ballet performances, and the exhibits were as beautiful as they were informative.

Unfortunately, our time in Paris came to an end. Fortunately, we were headed to an equally dreamy and fabulous destination: Provence. Specifically, to check off one of Blakely’s to-do items and stay in a restored Chateau called Chateau Talaud. Chateau Talaud was the 18th century estate of the Marquis Grille d'Estoublon and is surrounded by a working vineyard. The owners Conny and Hein are charming and have painstainkingly furnished the house with antiques from the appropriate time period so the experience is completely immersive. It was absolutely spectacular. And also conveniently located to Avignon, where we went for a fabulous dinner at Chez Serge.

Conny also gave us an invaluable gift in France: a connection with a Chateauneuf-du-Pape sommelier who owns an exclusive cave called Les Caves Saint Charles. And thanks to Conny’s intro, the owner Guy Bremond himself gave us a tasting of his most exquisite bottles (with a side of Cateauneuf-du-Pape gossip). The caves are full of candle light and Gregorian chant music. The entire experience was surreal.

And Blakely’s check-list wasn’t finished. Did you know that lavender and sunflowers are grown commercially in the same location? So that there are fields and fields and fields as far as the eye can see? We didn’t either. And obviously after we found out, there was no chance we could miss this fairy land. It was INSANE! Definitely a highlight for Blakely (Ryan, eh, not so much!). We stopped over in gorgeous Bonne Auberg for the night before reluctantly heading on!

Our next destination was none other than the fabulous and famed Cannes. We got to see some friends from the US, lay out by the beach, and have a fabulous dinner at La Mome! Cannes was where Blakely studied abroad in college, and it was a delight to relive those memories.

Our next stop was Nice and Villa Rotheschild to soak up the beauty and good taste. Villa Rotheschild was built in 1881 for Betty Rothschild, the sophisticated Parisian socialite who occupied the center of Parisian culture. Not only did Betty gather the most exquisite furniture, art and flowers around her, she inspired countless masterpieces including a portrait by Jean-auguste-Dominique Ingres and Heinrich Heine’s poem The Angel. In her honor, Chopin dedicated his Valse Op. 64, N° 2 in C sharp minor to her daughter Charlotte. If you’re interested, you can go down a fabulous wormhole into the Rotheschild’s other residences around Paris.

While staying in Nice, we hopped over to Monacco for a lovely day of yacht browsing and lunching at the fabulous Fairmont Hotel.

Ryan’s parents met us for a stay, so we also partook in the men’s favorite activity: sailing! It was a quick stay in Nice, but a wonderful cap to our time in France.

It’s worth noting that we left Nice the day before Bastille day when a terrorist attacked crowds celebrating on the promenade, where everyone gathers. He killed 86 people and injured 458 others. This was the closest brush we had with terrorism, though it wasn’t the only one. Our trip was riddled with this type of danger, in every continent and all different cultures. Also, with every report of a mass shooting from home, we were equally as scared for family as they were for us. No where in the world is sheltered from extremists, and no religion or culture is without them. Unfortunately the extremists get the megaphone, but we’re grateful our travels brought us to the multitude of good people from these religions and cultures.

Our time in France was full of beauty, deliciousness and wonderful people. It is certainly the most charming places on this Earth. But we continued our tour of civilized snobbiness in Switzerland!

[rtwlovers]

Civilized Scandinavia

We swore we wouldn’t go to Europe.  But what use is a trip around the world if you can’t follow you heart?  And when our planned destination (Turkey) became too volatile (and we were also under budget thanks to our finance department and this blog), we decided that both of us should pick one place to finish our trip.  Ryan picked Scandinavia.

Scandinavia is a region in Northern Europe that includes Denmark, Norway and Sweden.  Our summer timing worked perfectly with their best season, and we planned a 10-day blitz that was very different from our normal meandering style.  We simply couldn’t say no.

We started at one of their best cities: Copenhagen, Denmark.  Every corner of Copenhagen looks like a photo from a postcard or quaint travel book.  Cheerfully colored buildings with beautiful waterways and harbor, Copenhagen serves not just as Denmark’s capital but as its cultural center and most populated city. 

We started with a boat tour to get a general outline of the city and geography.  It was the perfect day to soak up the sunshine and overall civilized behavior of this place.  Of course in a RTW Lovers signature move, next we rented bikes for our own tour. Biking is an absolute must in Copenhagen. The old streets are a delight to explore, plus no pesky hills!  The architecture is gorgeous with the fantastically preserved old city juxtaposing the decidedly modern new buildings.  Both were a wonder to behold, and buildings are free to walk into and admire (the Royal Danish Playhouse and the Library being our favorite).  

Next we went to the very hip Street Food Market for delicious and eclectic dining.  Super fun and a definite must, but moving at this pace was delightfully exhausting!

Our favorite tourist attraction was the Rosenborg Castle and Gardens.  Originally built in 1606, the artifacts and antiques are as fascinating as the castle itself.   The collection holds a glimpse into Danish royalty, and the crown jewels alone are worth the visit.  To say nothing of the gorgeous gardens, which attract an estimated 2.5 million visitors per year.

Copenhagen holds a crazy 15 Michelin-starred restaurants.  Of course, we had to try one!  We chose PONY, where the approach to food is simple in composition but WOW in taste.  Much more to our preference than some of the more modern and micro options, which we simply aren’t cool enough to appreciate (plus Blakely gets too hungry!).

Unfortunately, we had to keep moving, so we hopped a train (our favorite) to Stockholm where we had one of Ryan’s favorite museums of the ENTIRE trip (yes).  The Vasa Museum.  

The Vasa Museum is a maritime museum that displays an almost completely intact 17th century warship.  The ship sank on its maiden voyage in the harbor (ouch), and that misfortune allowed for the boat to be salvaged and displayed for maritime nerds like us. The 64-gun warship Vasa is ginormous and impossible to photograph with any justice.  There are six levels of viewing, with exhibits on each level to give more information on the construction, archeological findings, sinking and recovery of the ship.    Pirate Ryan was in heaven!

Sweden has an insane number of museums, and we luckily got to visit two more.  The first was Fotografiska, which holds all notable photography in Sweden.  The collections had an incredible range, which makes each section even more interesting. While we were there, one of the visiting exhibitions was Nick Brandt’s African Ghost Animals, which allowed us to reflect on the beginning of our trip and the provocative world that Africa holds. While living in one culture and reflecting on its opposite, it was humbling and exhilarating to appreciate our experience in both.

We also went to the Nobel Museum to learn about the fascinating award.  It all started with Alfred Nobel, who’s grant is the only reason the prize exists today.  There are interviews and exhibits on the prominent Nobel prize winners like Martin Luther King, Jr and Albert Einstein, as well has rotating exhibits featuring the winners of one category and a perspective on why they won.  So cool.

Next, we hopped a train for our shortest stop of Scandinavia to Oslo, Norway’s capital and most populated city.  Of course we took a trip to the Munch Museum to see The Scream by Edvard Munch.  You also have to go to the Oslo Opera House to take in the spectacular modern architecture meant to look like an iceberg!

Next, we took a train to Aurland, Norway to experience the gorgeous fjords that Scandenavia boasts. The landscape here is simply spectacular thanks to huge icebers cutting through the landscape a million years ago. We got set up with a captain who conducts tours of the fjords.  The captain made us an interesting offer:  Model some Norwegian sweaters for Chinese tourists, and I’ll give you a free tour.  So yes, we modeled some Norwegian sweaters and got a free tour!

Worth it.

Next, we took a hike on our own, and we swear that the Norwegian air added years to our life! Ryan even took a dip!

Unfortunately, we couldn’t stay in this paradise forever, so we headed to our last stop Bergen, Norway. In Bergen, we stayed at an Air BNB with another couple who were easy suit mates.  While we unpacked, our host had a friend over to watch the soccer match. We got to listen to our Cuban host debate socialism with his Norwegian friend.  It was FASCINATING to hear two opposing views on socialism from two people who otherwise got along so well.  And indicative of one of the biggest lessons of our trip.  The world’s issues are complicated.  And very intelligent people will strongly disagree simply because they have different backgrounds and objectives.   There is rarely a definitive and simple right answer, no matter how comforting simplicity may be.

Bergen is a gorgeous old city, and the perfect end to our stay, as it offers all of the charm and natural beauty of Scandinavia.  We enjoyed a café, took an amazing hike, and ended the day with Norwegian salmon!

Next stop: Blakely’s choice, FRANCE! 

[rtwlovers]

The World Trip Poem

We reigned among steel giants made on gold,

A Neverland, as rough as it is fair.

Then dared to test in what legend foretold,

That we could leave and make it anywhere.

Inadequate in all but choice to go,

We gave up all in order to explore.

Nothing but questions, yet a peace to know:

The hearts we leave behind will weigh much more.

Such mysteries unraveled over land;

That bravery and fear would come as one.

And being strong, so long as we held hands,

We set off on our dream to chase the sun.

We dove with dinosaurs, showered with bees,

And swam across the thunder where smoke furls.

Held death defying orphans on our knees.

Their lives will revolutionize our world.

We read the language only gods could know,

And chased the purples through our year of spring.

Slept under palaces and scorpio,

and bowed to peasants after hunting kings.

We kissed in ancient tombs where camels graze,

And felt insane on board the untamed train.

We marveled holy giants in a blaze,

And grieved on through the quartered town of pain.

And then, the rose gold city (please undo).

Where I, your hero. You, my champion.

And ancient wrongs battled our tribe of two.

Our heart’s blood shed to aid a war not won.

But through these tales, too numerous to name,

The miles, clicks, eons of our grand world tour,

They shant tell where our true adventure lay.

And none compare my heart’s journey in yours.

In that, more wonder, passion, history

Than where the swastikas and stars align.

More beauty, danger, heat and mystery,

Than where the dust holds animals divine.

Though home, I can’t see where we started from.

We face adventures, dangers yet unseen.

I’ll rest in this: When I’m with you, I’m home.

Beside you is the only place I’d be.

[rtwlovers]

He Said, She Said. Part III

“People traveling here are either searching for something or running from something.”

-Ryan Millar, our friend in Laos, on SE Asia backpackers

“I want to be sick of massages by the time we leave Asia.”

-Ryan. We were successful!

“The problem with staying in a beach hut is that if you’re inside and can’t see the beach, you’re just staying in a hut.”

-Blakely

“I think the bus drivers and masseuses are in business together.

-Ryan

“There is nothing better than being believed in.”

-Blakely after her first Huffington Post article was published.

“Hush your mouth, and give me Park Avenue.”

-Blakely, angry with Ryan when he started saying ways Singapore is better than New York

“I hope there’s a bathtub at the Taj Mahal Palace. We need to wash some clothes.”

-Ryan

“Enjoy your Tour of Pakistan!”

-The head of Damodra Camp being sarcastic as we drove off for our dune tour.

“No. Yoga is trying to get your pants on, while wearing flip flops, in the shower, without letting a pant leg or your feet hit the floor.”

-Blakely on skills acquired on our meditation/yoga trek up to ABC

“To make a Nepali child sleep by themselves is punishment.”

-Anka (our 3rd hiking member), who volunteered at an orphanage in Nepal before trekking with us

“Don’t hurry. But be quick.”

-What our Nepali guide Chandra would always say when he wanted to get us moving

“I’d like to think I’m a reasonable feminist. For instance: I don’t mind when a man we’re talking to won’t speak to me. I’m an exceptionally beautiful woman. I’d be scared to speak to me too.”

-Blakely

“I won’t pretend that wasn’t a blow.”

-Us whenever something bad happened

[rtwlovers]

Japan, We Love You

When handing out awards, Japan is the dark horse of our trip. We didn’t know much about the country or culture, nor did we know many people who’d visited. We’d traveled through 11 countries in Asia at this point. We’d been through Africa, the Middle East, and South America and had traveled constantly for the past 9 months. We got comfortable and felt that nothing could surprise us. And as usual, the world proved us wrong.

Japan’s culture is unlike any other in Asia, which is a good (incredibly clean) and bad (incredibly expensive) thing. Incredibly conservative and polite, there is a huge emphasis on respect, manners and honor. We learned some of our favorite customs here. For instance, one never turns their back on a customer. So when a conductor travels through one of the high speed bullet trains and must turn his back in order to walk down the aisle, he turns around at the end of every train, takes his hat off and does a very deep bow. This is at the end of EVERY single car.

Or, there is absolutely no tipping. So when you accidentally leave money on the table, one of the waiters will chase after you to return it!

And then there’s the food. Another surprise. Japan is a foodie paradise with an incredibly wide range of traditional dishes and you’re sure to find one you’ll love. From sushi to ramen, you could eat a traditional dish every night for a month and not repeat. We’ll recount some of our favorites as we go through our itinerary.

We started in Tokyo at Anne Hostel. Unfortunately, Japan is more expensive than other places on our itinerary, so we kept accommodations simple so we could splurge on experiences. We immediately set to work seeing the sights.

First on our list was the famous Tsukiji Fish Market. About 2,000 tons of seafood is traded here daily, but the most sought after sight is the Tuna Auction held in the VERY early morning. We got up at a casual 3AM in order to earn the privilege to watch this auction in action. Experts from the best restaurants in the country review these gigantic tuna shipped to port in the past night, and then a Japanese man spouts off prices until the highest bidder is found. We’d seen a lot by now, but this experience was bizarre.

The next day we continued to hit Japan hard. We headed to the Meiji Shrine, which is located on a park of 170 gorgeous green acres. The shrine is dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meihi and his wife Empress Shoken to commemorate his role in the Meiji Restoration. (Pssst the Meiji Restoration was in 1868, when Japan realized how behind it was from the West, it opened up its doors to foreign trade and technology. This was further done after WWII, and is the reason the country is so changed from our grandparent’s generation to ours). The shine and park were beautiful and wonderfully peaceful.

On the walk home, we experienced Tokyo’s fashionable district and soaked up the glamorous beauty that is Tokyo. We. Love. Cities.

Next we headed to the Imperial Palace, which is the primary residence of the Emperor of Japan. The grounds and architecture were gorgeous.

Next, we took advantage of our incredible luck to be in Japan during the Sumo Wrestling Championship! The Japanese absolutely LOVE sports (more on that later). Sumo is their national sport and indicative of their deep heritage. It is a ritualistic form of wresting from ancient times involving two overweight men clothed in loin cloths with their hair in topknots (like hipster man buns) battling out their strength to try to force their opponent out of the circular ring or into falling to the ground. Though that is the technical explanation, there is much more to it than that.

Sumo wresting isn’t just a sport, it is literally a way of life. As usual with the Japanese, they go all in. The wrestlers are required to live in a heya where they train and live. Their diet and lifestyle is heavily regulated. These guys may look fat, but in real life you can see they are HUGE mountains of muscle and disarmingly flexible. These mountains crashing together was a sight we’ll never forget.

After the sports, we needed to support the arts! We did so by visiting one of the largest art museums in the world: The Tokyo National Museum. Located inside a beautiful Ueno park, the museum is dedicated to art works and archaeological objects of Asia with a particular focus on Japan. We finished off the day with a walk through Otaku, Tokyo’s anime or gaming district (Japan is OBSESSED) with skyscrapers covered in neon lights and anime characters dancing around us!

All of this touring made us hungry and we visited one of our favorites (that we even came back to later!). Kikanbo Spicy Ramen. The craving returns just by typing the name!

After Tokyo we headed to Kyoto, which is considered the cultural capital of Japan due to its rich history of the Imperial time. The city holds the vast majority of Japan’s National Treasures and UNESCO World Heritage Sites and is obviously a must if you travel to Japan. Even the Japanese citizens go here to learn more about their own heritage.

The Arashiyama Bamboo Forrest is a gorgeous must, and it transports you to another planet. A quieter planet. Be sure to get there early as it is a (rightly so) popular spot.

Another must is Fushimi Inari-taisha, which is the mountain shrine that holds the pathway with the thousands of iconic orange gates. We were grateful to have each other on the two hour walk, as once you get lost in the pathways, the sound disperses and it becomes eerily quiet and isolating. Though it is technically one shrine, it holds as many as 32,000 sub-shrines.

Now, it is time for a confession. After the sumo wresting match, we went to dinner with an Australian couple who sheepishly asked us if we liked Harry Potter. Blakely tried to play calm and casually said yes. They then proceed to tell us about the UNBELIEVABLE Harry Potter World located at Universal Osaka. Even though the couple weren’t fans themselves, they were impressed. Again, Blakely tried to act casual, but Ryan received multiple kicks under the table which communicated that their plans were set.

If you get the opportunity, the Japanese culture is made for theme parks. The impeccable cleanliness, unwavering respect to strangers, and relentless cheerful demeanor make them the perfect hosts in this imaginary land. Plus, they’ve got the funds and the following to invest in these ventures, and the Harry Potter world alone received an investment of over $400 MILLION. We couldn’t help but be taken in, and were grinning madly from the moment we got in line.

OF COURSE, Harry Potter world was the first place we went. We’ll let pictures describe the utter joy that filled Blakely’s being. It was complete system overload. While standing in line for a ride (The Flight of the Hippogriff, thank you for asking), Blakely asked Ryan urgently for 5,000 yen (about $50). This was A LOT for our world trip daily budget, and far more than the souvenir department ever requested on a whim. She offered no explanation but Ryan handed it over. 10 minutes later, Blakely came back with her very own Harry Potter wand. Yes, these wands perform magic in the park (she hasn’t tried since leaving because she’s worried about breaking the International Statute of Wizarding Secrecy).

We went on to enjoy TONS of rides and calls to our childhood like Jaws and Jurassic Park. We consumed cheesburgers and huge cokes with tons of ice. We walked down the streets of “New York” and ended the day at TGIFridays. Then almost fell asleep in utter exhaustion on the ride home. It was a wonderful day.

And the treats weren’t over, because next we headed to a Glamping.com assignment in Miyama with some of the most charming people we’d ever encountered. Read about the amazing experience in our gorgeous thatch roof hut here.

Of course, another must is to view the ruins in Osaka, where the US dropped one of two atomic bombs during World War II. We were there for the historic visit from President Obama, and it was an honor to be present as our two countries met to continue the healing from that horrible time.

Lastly, we headed to the mountains for a little relaxation. It’s a fairly well kept secret that Japan has some of the best skiing in the world. While we were there during off season, we still got to enjoy amazing hiking as well as a Japan highlight and a Blakely delight: The onsen.

An onsen is a Japanese hot spring with spas, inns, and bathing facilities built around them. Since Japan is volcanically active, thousands of onsens are scattered throughout the country.

We were very skeptical. Firstly, it’s intimidating because, like many traditional Japanese activities, onsen bathing is seeped in etiquette. We shouldn’t have been hesitant, because also like other traditional Japanese activities, the rules are clearly explained and (even better) make sense!

So the onsen ritual is essentially bathing in a hot spring. This used to happen with both men and women, but since the Meiji Restoration the bathing has been separate.

The main etiquette for onsen bathing is ensuring cleanliness before you get into the bath. There are showers with toiletries, and you are expected to clean yourself THOROUGHLY and rinse off absolutely all traces of soap before entering the onsen. Love this rule.

Bathing suits are normally not permitted, and towels and wash clothes are normally not allowed to be dipped into the bath. This is all to preserve cleanliness.

Onsen bathing was absolutely one of the most relaxing things we’ve ever done. The only regret is not finding one in every city!

We ended our Japanese adventure back in Tokyo where we experienced entertainment unlike ANY other in the world. A Japanese baseball game.

Yes. The Japanese absolutely love baseball. While the game resembles its American cousin, it has been Japan-i-fied with choreographed cheers, multiple life-size mascots, and skimpily dressed beer girls. Our seat neighbors promptly lent us gear in the proper colors once they realized we didn’t have any team paraphernalia, and the stadium was perfectly clean when we left. Such a cool experience.

As we said at the top, Japan was the dark horse of our trip. No place delighted us more, surprised us more, or welcomed us more. We can’t recommend it highly enough, nor wait to go back.

[rtwlovers]

Bali Paradise

Bali, a name that is synomonous with Paradise, couldn’t possibly live up to that reputation. Incorrect.  Bali is the single most relaxing place we’ve ever been. Enough activities so you don’t get bored, cheap enough that you never feel stressed, easy enough so you never feel strained, and small enough that you never feel rushed.  We are HUGE Bali fans.

Of course, it’s also an incredibly romantic place, which was perfect because it was over our anniversary, and hilarious because Blakely’s little sister tagged along!  Thankfully, she’s the perfect travel partner who was up for anything and demanded nothing.

We started in the capital Semenyak.  Blakely booked our accommodations beforehand, and they were suspiciously underpriced for such good reviews.  The group was a little skeptical as we headed down a dirt driveway with cement walls and shacks on either side.  But then, the walls opening up to a gorgeous lawn and pool with a small boutique hotel and outside eating area.  We’d arrived at Kubu Cempaka and we were home.

Of course the first thing we needed to do was get our bearings and head to the beach. Thankfully, there are restaurants all along the beach so our dinner option was easy!  We soon found out that Bali eating is spectacular because ex-pats from all over the world move to Bali because it is such a wonderful place to live. They set up restaurants from their native lands so the foreign fare is as authentic as it could be!  Add that to local delicious seafood and you’re set! 

Soon we formulated our plan. We decided to do a small loop which included Bali and neighboring island of Lombok.  After Seminyak we took a ferry to Lembogan, then to Gili Air and lastly Ubud.  Here are our highlights.

Yoga.  Bali is arguably the capital of yoga and you should take FULL advantage (while also paying attention to the types you don’t like. For example, we aren’t big Hatha fans. Too much breathing, too little action). By far, our favorite yoga place and a highlight from the ENTIRE world trip is the Yoga Barn in Ubud.  People travel to Bali solely for the opportunity to go to the Yoga Barn and we don’t blame them.  World-class teachers in a gorgeous open air studio, this place has a culture completely onto itself.  We started plotting our return before we left.

While on the subject of activities, you should also find time to do some surfing and scuba diving. We surfed in Seminyak and loved it, but the opportunities are endless.  Talk to your hotel whenever you are near the ocean.  

Massages.  Take advantage of the incredibly inexpensive massages ($5 for 90 minutes.  Seriously.) on every block in every city.  Get a recommendation from your hotel or poke your head into a few to find your favorite.  Ryan is quoted as saying he wanted to be sick of massages before he left SE Asia, and in Bali he did his best!  In addition to full body, we recommend simply getting a foot massage every night, just because you can!

Motor Bikes.  So fun.  We rented bikes in Lembogan and it was such a great way to spend the day and explore.  We went over to Le Pirate for pool time and fabulous drinks, and then Mamma Mia for delicious lunch!

Beachside Drinks. Speaking of drinks, we absolutely loved the fresh fruit smoothies (we recommend the watermelon mint delight!) while looking out on the water.  For a more club-ish scene, we liked Ku de Ta in Semenyak, Le Piarate in Lembogan, and Deus ex Machina in Canggu.  One of our favorite tricks was to get everything mocktail.  We know it sounds lame, but this way you don’t have to limit yourself! And, as you can see, we didn’t limit ourselves!

Lastly, the Art in Ubud is some of the widest variety that we’ve ever seen in one place.  Take advantage of the vast array of artists on all mediums and of all subjects to pick some pieces that can transport you back to Bali when you get home. 

Bali was the perfect recovery for our wild ride around China, and we couldn’t recommend it higher. The people, sights, activities, food, and energy facilitate an atmosphere that will be the greatest memory of your time there.  We can’t wait to go back.

[rtwlovers]

Our China Crash Course

Our adventure through China was an absolute whirlwind that covered almost 3,000 miles in 10 days. To see China in that amount of time is like taking a 10 day trip to see New York, D.C., LA, and Seattle. It was absolutely insane.

But we had a good reason for the quickness—Blakely’s family came to join us and they only had a small window. We enjoyed the company (and the upgrade in accommodations!).

We started in Hong Kong, which is a great gateway into China since it is much more connected to the outside world. Reminder: the Chinese government significantly limits news flow of its citizens, and this makes them culturally cut off from the rest of society. While Hong Kong technically falls under Chinese jurisdiction, it was a British colony until 1997 when the Brits returned it to China. Hong Kong maintains a separate political and economic system from China, but the mainland significantly influences the legislation. China continues to broker more influence, and unfortunately protests don’t make much difference despite making international news.

Blakely and Ryan arrived 2 days earlier than the rest of the group, which was best as we were VERY dusty from our time in Nepal. We stayed at the Kowloon Shangri-la Hotel, which, as could be expected, were MUCH better accommodations than our norm.

We enjoyed the hotel then headed to explore the city. Of course, a highlight for us was the spectacular architecture. As city folk we really appreciate a good skyscraper, and Hong Kong has plenty of those! Hong Kong has a gorgeous skyline, with more skyscrapers than anywhere in the world, and Victoria Harbor elevates the view further. Ryan’s favorites were the HSBC Building, International Commerce Center and Bank of China Tower. Then we went to Man Mo temple, which is dedicated to the gods of literature and war. The incense and atmosphere make it a calm and gorgeous stop.

That night, we headed to the fabulous SoHo neighborhood (not to be confused with the SoHo in NYC, this stands for South of Hollywood Road) which has one of our favorite features: escalator sidewalks. First we hit a wine and cheese bar, and then one of our favorite restaurants Little Bao. So fun, so delicious, and everything we needed.

Finally, the rest of the group arrived. We didn’t pause long before taking them on a walking tour the neighborhood. Then for dinner, we headed to the world renowned Din Tai Fung restaurant for delicious dumplings and noodles. Finally, we headed to Temple Street Night Market for a bit of chaos and shopping! Unfortunately the market is MUCH more glitz than glamor, and as many things in China, focused on the shiny quantity over quality!

The next day was a big one. We started on a tram up to Victoria Peak to see the sights,. Due to the crazy fog, the view half-way up was better. Then we took a boat tour to see the floating village of Aberdeen and the temples there. Afterwards, a little tea time at the Peninsula hotel, then cocktails while watching the harbor light show.

Next, we jetted off to Guilin and immediately went to the gorgeous Reed Flute cave. In case the natural structure isn’t enough, the gorgeous light displays make the cave even more mystical and impressive (though a few thought they were tacky and preferred the natural landscape!). In Guilin, we stayed at the beautiful Guilin Shangri-la Hotel.

Next on the itinerary was a drive out to Longji, with hiking to see the gorgeous rice paddies. Absolutely worth the hike (to say nothing of needing to work off those dumplings!), this was a trip highlight for all of us.

That night we took a light cruise around the lakes of Guilin. The Chinese LOVE a light show, and we were pretty impressed ourselves!

The next day was a highlight: A boat cruise along the Li River. This site has inspired painters and artists for centuries, and it inspired the artwork on the 50 yen note today. Blakely couldn’t resist the beauty recreated by a local artist on rice paper, which is now hanging in our house!

After the day’s craziness, we took a flight to Xian and settled into the Wyndham Grand Xian hotel, another fabulous place!

Xian attracts visitors from all over the world with the incredible Terracotta Warriors. Even with all of the hype, they do NOT disappoint. Here’s the skinny:

When the first Emperor of China Qin Shi Huang died around 210 BC, he was buried with an army he commissioned to protect him in the afterlife. There are approximately 8,000 soldiers, 130 chariots, 520 horses and 150 cavalry horses. Additionally, there are officials, acrobats, strongmen and musicians. All of the statues are life sized, uniquely carved and painted, and buried in different sized pits. The largest of the pits is housed in the museum for viewing. It is INSANE to see.

Even cooler: the army is just a portion of the remains left to be discovered. Excavation is ongoing, but ground-penetrating radar detects a larger city resembling the emperor’s imperial palace and court. Next we gobbled down some delicious beef noodle soup!

The next day we had a gorgeous bike ride around Xian’s ancient city walls, which were built in the 14th Century and form one of the best-preserved fortresses in the world. After earning our treat, we had a walk through the Great Tang All Day Mall and celebrated with Popsicles and BBQ. This is a market of which we all approved!

After Xian we flew to Shanghai and got to visit the historic and beautiful Zhujiajiao village. We felt like we stepped back in time! We had a canal cruise, did a little shopping (of course) and went to see a historic mansion with traditional Chinese gardens.

Shang Hai was absolutely our favorite city in mainland China, with a gorgeous skyline and metropolitan atmosphere. As discussed, we love cities. We walked along the river and had a fabulous dinner before enjoying one of THE most bizarre and fantastic shows we’d ever seen: The Amazing Acrobats of Shanghai. We will never be able to see another acrobat show again.

The following day the boys and girls separated, and the boys took a tour of the mind blowing Shang hai port. Afterwards we all flew to our last stop (WHEW) Beijing.

The next day was a highlight and it started with Tian’anmen Square. According to our official guide it is “the largest city square in the world” (it is actually only one of the top 10) “and the spiritual heart of China, where the national flag is raised exactly at sunrise every day.” Of course, what isn’t mentioned in the paraphernalia is that this square is infamous for the horrendous massacre of protestors in 1989. Troops with automatic rifles and tanks killed hundreds of demonstrators who were trying to block the military’s advance to the square (where a student protest was happening).

Today, Tian’anmen is a heavily regulated area and indicative of Chinese policy in general. Before entry, visitors and their belongings are searched and IDs checked. Protests are strictly forbidden, and discussion of the massacre nonexistent. Furthermore, in the 70s the square held ginormous portraits of 6 dictators (including Karl Marx, Vladimir Lenin, and Joseph Stalin), but upon the death of Mao Sedong (founding father of the People’s Republic of China) the other portraits were removed and only his remains. Don’t worry, the other portraits are still brought out in a parade around the square on Labor Day and National Day.

For all its dark past, Tian’anmen Square allows entrance to one of the coolest places in China: The Forbidden City. The Forbidden City is a palace complex in Central Beijing and housed the imperial palace from 1420-1912. Now, it is a Palace Museum and provides an excellent snapshot of gorgeous Chinese architecture, artwork, and artefacts. Our personal favorite was the Hall of Clocks, a display of 200 clocks and watches from the imperial collection.

Last stop for the day, we visited the Temple of Heaven, a complex of religious buildings that was visited yearly by emperors to ensure a good harvest.

Ok. Now for the part we’ve all been waiting for. The famous symbol of China, an architectural wonder of the world, stretching 6,700 km and over 2,000 years old: The Great Wall of China.

The wall was constructed over many different dynasties to protect the ever-changing empire borders. The most extensive and modern construction occurred as recently as the 14th Century. Effectiveness of the wall varied, and our guide informed us that bribery decreased the walls success. Unfortunately, with the invention of air invasion, the wall was largely unproductive in modern era. That said, it is magnificent to see.

Though it can’t be seen from the moon (common misconception), it can be seen from space at a low orbit when the conditions are right.

Maybe one of our favorite parts was the ride down. Take a look.

To get to the wall we enjoyed the Sacred Path, which is lined with animals, mystical beasts and officials who serve the emperor in his afterlife. Sitting emperors perform rituals there for the ancestors once a year.

Our last stop in China was one of our favorites: The Summer Palace. This was an imperial summer resort of the Qing Dynasty and it has gorgeous grounds that are the recognized as the most splendid classical gardens of China. The incredible decoration on the buildings made us constantly look up, and we loved finishing our trip with such a gorgeous example of Chinese art. Our only complaint was that we visited on a holiday so we felt like all of China was there with us! One thing is for sure: China has a LOT of people!

So ended our blitz through China, and if you’re tired from reading it you can imagine how tired we were for doing it! The only answer: a blissful vacation to Bali.

[rtwlovers]

Our Yoga Trek to Annapurna

After the chaos and hyper stimulation of India, we needed some peace.  Our bodies were dusty and exhausted, our minds were overworked and muddled, so we pursued a refuge that pilgrims of our same state have retreated to for thousands of years: the Himalayan Mountains.

Across all different religions, nationalities, ages and interests, the Himalayas are holy.  To locals, the mountains are sacred and worshiped as gods on earth.  To outsiders, the mountains are a different sort of god, and climbers travel from all corners to try their skill at earth’s highest peaks.  Despite our differences, these mountains somehow connect with the core of our humanity and command our reverence.  And when gazing up, even the secular stand in awe and the cynical mind is silenced.  We’re stirred to reach higher, to be better.

Though peaceful, these mountains are anything but tame.  The range holds the highest peaks in the world, and the vast altitudes create terrain and climate from humid subtropics to dry and freezing desert.  Like all plans involving nature, your hiking trail fluctuates based on the time of year.  This meant we were headed to one of the best base camp trails available: Annapurna.

Annapurna has over thirteen peaks that tower 23,000 feet or above.  The peaks encircle a basin called Annapurna Sanctuary, which is where the base camp is located.  That unique position, along with the beauty of the hike itself, makes this trek our ideal choice for a Himalayan experience.  

In a place so drenched in spirituality, hiking without appreciating it would be akin to walking the whole way with your eyes on your feet.  If meditation has a Mecca, this is it.  Ryan found Purna Yoga that fully appreciates exercising your mind as well as your body.  We figured, “If this whole meditation thing ends up being a sham, at least our bodies will get in shape.”  So we signed up for an 11-day trek up to Annapurna Base Camp.  

Regardless of your trek choice, all roads begin at Katmandu, the capital and hub of Nepal.  Katmandu is still in recovery from the massive earthquake in 2015.  Unfortunately, it is still a bit of a mess, with pollution and lack of infrastructure dampening an otherwise amazing place.  That said, Kathmandu is no doubt a international city and as close to civilization as you’ll get in Nepal.  We recommend getting a red meat meal at Ktoo Steakhouse before your trek.  We stayed at Hotel Ganesh Himal, which we highly recommend.  Katmandu is also a great place to buy any forgotten gear for your trek, but be aware that most stalls sell knock-off name brand items (maybe not best for your down jacket purchase).  We visited the famous and chaotic Monkey Temple, and had lunch at Garden of Dreams for our dose of civilized eating before we headed off.

The Purna Yoga treks start off at the gorgeous Purna Yoga retreat that sits on the hill overlooking the lake. The rooms are cozy and simple, and mimic the teahouses you’ll stay in throughout your trek.  But the gorgeous yoga room is the star with its floor to ceiling windows.  The Purna team was essential in making sure we had all the proper equipment before hitting the trail.

Then, we set off.  Our fearless leader Chandra was the perfect person to guide our bodies through the trail and our minds through meditation. Every morning started with a different type of meditation and breathing exercise, then yoga.  We would stop to meditate and stretch at least twice and then again after lunch.  Then after dinner, we’d have a lesson in meditation theory and a breathing exercise to relax our minds and bodies.  It was a lot, but over the course of the twelve days we became full converts in the necessity of cleaning out our minds to be more productive and effective.  To help our skeptical Western minds, we listened to “10% Happier” by Dan Harris, which is an awesome case for meditation in daily life.  

A bit about the trek itself: “Teahouses” are the small hotels scattered throughout the trail where trekkers eat and stay each night.  Some teahouses are better than others, and as your get closer to the camp (but farther from civilization) they get more rustic. Firstly, while teahouses offer a very wide range of food, we recommend to go as local as possible—it’s what they cook best!  Enjoy the dhal bat, which is the Nepali meal of rice and lentils.  It’s very filling and comes in different tastes and accompaniments.  We also love a tea made of ginger, mint and honey to start your day or warm you. 

Secondly, be sure to inquire about hot water, and decide for yourself if a cold shower is better than none (we have differing opinions). Also, bring a very warm sleeping bag as rooms likely don’t have heat, and the heaters you can rent can make the room smell like gasoline.  The walls between the rooms are very thin, so bring earplugs if you’re a light sleeper. Lastly, the rooms have two or three beds in each, so if you’re traveling solo you may have to share a room (this is more than likely the case as you get closer to base camp).  The altitude is also a point of contention, and we recommend giving yourself an extra day of travel so you can adjust (seriously—this is the number one reason people don’t make it to the top).  

On our last day trekking towards base camp, a snow storm rolled in as we ascended and visibility was nonexistent.  It was a VERY cold situation, and we couldn’t see more than 7 feet in front of us.  We made it to base camp, and hunkered down to stay warm and wait for morning.  That next morning, we woke up before the sunrise and hoped to see the peaks before we headed back down the mountain.    

It was dark, so we had to wait and hope that visibility was better.  Then suddenly, WOW.  Daybreak hit the highest peak in an orange blaze.  It spread towards the other peaks not unlike a real fire, and we witnessed the basin come alive.  The air was as clear and crisp, and we had optimal visibility to witness the sunrise. Spectacular.

Before leaving, Blakely tied up prayer flags, which are a traditional way of blessing the countryside. We took a picture by the Annapurna sign, and headed back down.  Blakely of course sprained her ankle on the way down, which is why we do not recommend making this trek without a guide and porter.  She still made it, but having a professional was invaluable.

Nepal is seeped in spirituality and we tried to soak up every morsel.  We will never be the same and will forever feel grateful that it shared some of its spirit with us.  And it was good that we had such a peaceful time, because next we headed to one of the most chaotic bends of our trip:  A Family trip through China!

[rtwlovers]

India Travels Continued...

The Taj Mahal is a tourist attraction that is 100% worth the hype, crowd, and line.  It is an architectural masterpiece, and all eyes travel over the pools and up to the domes exactly how the genius creators intended. It is made of an ivory-white marble, and took about 20 years to build .  Commissioned by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan to house the tomb of his favorite wife, the Taj today acts as a mausoleum for both of their remains.

The structure is a testament to symmetry and grace, with the monstrous dome towering 115 feet above the base and surrounding lakes.  The reflective pools and sunken gardens change as they slope away from the dome to keep everything proportional, and then the inlay of precious and semi-precious stones make staring at the Taj a pleasure, whether from near or far.  It is spectacular.

It was a full moon, so we also signed up to visit the Taj by moonlight.  It was much quieter and even peaceful (hard to get at tourist sites in India!), and we highly recommend it if the timing is possible.

Next, we hopped a train to India’s capital Delhi.  The Holi Festival is the Hindu festival known as the “festival of color,” and it signifies the arrival of spring and the victory of good over evil.  This was actually an anchor date for us, as spring and conquering evil are two of Blakely’s favorite things to celebrate!  We found a fun place to go, put on some clothes we didn’t mind ruining, and prepared for fun.  Blakely’s hair was pink for literally over 2 months!

We stayed at a charming B&B called B Nineteen Hotel—it was the perfect tranquil base in an otherwise hectic place.  And then of course, we had to get our tourist on.

Our first stop was to the Qutab complex, a gathering of 27 Hindu and Jain temples and one of the oldest ruins surviving in India.  The main attraction is the Qutub Minar, which is a giant minaret built by the first Sultan of Delhi in the 1300s.  It was fascinating to wander and explore all of the temples, monuments, and tombs.

One of the major attractions in Delhi is the impressive Red Fort, which was the residence and political center for the Moghul dynasty in the 17 and 1800s.   Though most of the valuable artwork and jewels were plundered, the defensive walls were left intact to be admired.

After all of that dust, it was time for some luxury in one of our favorite ways:  Tea Time.  Tea Time is the best because of the gorgeous setting, peaceful atmosphere and relatively reasonable price tag if you make it a meal.  Whether in India at the Imperial Hotel or at the Livingston Hotel in Victoria Falls, we very much enjoy acting civilized for an hour or so.  

Our last stop in India was a BIG one, and a place that shouldn’t be taken on lightly.  It is a city shrouded in traditions that travelers can find unsettling.  It is the pinnacle of Indian culture that, while magnificent, is the epitome of culture shock.  We’re talking about the holy city of Varanasi.

Varanasi is a holiest city in the Hindu religion, and is also where Buddha gave his fist sermon which started Buddhism.  Those being the two biggest religions in India make Varanasi pretty significant to its people.  Mark Twain summarized Varanasi as only he can: “Varanasi is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.”  

The city is located on the Ganges River, and the river is considered holy and the base of many rituals. In a country of intense overpopulation and the accompanying sanitation issues, we didn’t wonder why.  Hindus believe that bathing in the Ganges brings absolution of sins, and all Hindus try to make the pilgrimage once in their life. But even more unique, Hindus believe that death in Varanasi will bring salvation and break the cycle of rebirth. This belief makes Varanasi a major center for pilgrimage at the end of life and for families bringing loved ones who have died.  There are countless funeral pyres all along the banks, but these are mixed in with children swimming and locals doing laundry in a combination that you’d only find in India. 

We stayed at one of our favorite hotels, Hotel Ganges View, which is a refurbished mansion located on the river.  The gorgeous terraces and home cooked meals were the perfect comfort and base to explore the rather uncomfortable city.  

We chose Varanasi Walking Tours as our hosts, and did the overview tour as well as the Sunrise Yoga Tour.  Both were exceptional ways to see the city and experience the atmosphere that makes Varanasi so special.  

A must in Varanasi is a boat tour at night and experience the ceremonies on the bank.  The main ritual is Aarti, which is performed by Brahmin disciples and honors the river and deities.  It takes place every night at 7pm no matter the weather, and is full of chanting, incense, and fire dancing.  

Of course, the most frequent ritual is burning the bodies of loved ones in the many funeral pyres.  They request no photos to maintain the holiness and sacredness of the experience, which we respected.

Lastly we participated in a beautiful ritual:  Releasing a candle out on to the river as we made a wish!  Pilgrims all over the world come to Varanasi to release a wish, and the river is full of the votive candles floating into the distance.  We couldn’t wish for a cooler experience in India. It is truly a spectacular place that can’t be explored enough.  If you ever have the chance, please visit.  Bring a sense of humor and adventure, and let India sweep you away.

After the chaos, heat and dust of India, we retreated to a refuge chosen by countless pilgrims before us: the sacred Himilayan mountains.

[rtwlovers]

Laos or Bust

Laos is one of the few places in Southeast Asia that remains off the beaten path.  That makes it more valuable of a trip, but also more difficult to explore.  Luckily, Blakely’s hometown friend Ryan found love and relocated to a charming, old French colonial town in Laos, and he showed us the best and behind the scenes spots of this spectacular place.

Luang Prabang is the cultural center of Laos and the headquarters for any visit.  We stayed in a fabulously central hotel called the Vilayvanh Guesthouse, which allowed us to walk most places on our list.  Our first dinner was a treat:  Buffet with the locals where we barbequed our own meat in hot oil in the center of the table.  YUM.

The next day, Ryan and his fabulous wife Daolinh took us to a festival that her family’s village had that day in honor of the harvest season.  It was an invaluable opportunity to be hosted in such style by her family and friends.  We tried to keep up, but these people know how to party!

That day, we also stopped by a local treasure, the beautiful Kuang Si waterfalls.  It was perfect for the hot day and gorgeous to explore. 

For dinner, they took us to Secret Pizza—an absolute must for your stay in Luang Prabang.  They serve delicious Italian cuisine (our favorite and something we hadn’t had in QUITE a while!) and the ambience is super fun and casual.

One of the coolest things to see around Luang Prabang were the monks.  More on them later!

 For the weekend, we traveled to a river village called Nong Khiaw for a little getaway.  The hotel, Nong Khiaw River Cottages, had gorgeous standalone cottages that overlooked the river (I guess the name is a giveaway!).  They perfectly combine comfort with luxury. 

Nong Khiaw holds lots of fun activities, but first we chose a bike ride to the local caves.  The countryside is gorgeous to bike through, and the caves were super cool, even though Blakely isn’t such a cave person.

The next day, we took a boat ride down the river with a few friends of Ryan and Daolinh.  Not only did they catch our lunch, they proceeded to grill it right on the riverbank using bamboo.  We ate on huge banana leaves, and we tried to act like this was something we did every day.  What the photos can’t show is the crazy music blaring—Laotians LOVE their music. 

Afterwards, we had drinks at the boat driver’s house with his lovely family, where the music and fun continued.

That night, we had dinner at a local nameless duck restaurant, and then had one of the best nights of our trip.  We were met by two of Daolinh’s friends, who were off duty from guiding a tour group.  We loaded into the tour van, and they took us to a local karaoke place.  If you’ve never been to karaoke in Asia, YOU MUST.  It is a necessary cultural experience because it is SO different from any other karaoke.  Singers remain seated, and grown men in business suits go by themselves and proceed to sing love ballads endearingly, though rather quietly, into the mic.  This particular karaoke place didn’t have many English songs or a list of what songs it had, but we were in luck and were still able to sing our rendition of New York, New York (with all of the hand motions, of course).  In our passion for the song, we forgot the no stand-up custom, but our performance was all the better for it.   Obviously, Blakely wowed with belting out, at the top of her Southern choir trained lungs, I Will Always Love You.  While there is footage of the performance, it will never see the light of day.  To our valued readers, we do offer these snapshots so you can fill in the blanks.

We’re positive those poor businessmen will never be the same. 

We finished our fabulous time at a late-night bocce bar (they call it pétanque, thanks to the French).  Who won the game?  No idea.

We went back to Luang Prabang, but before departing Laos we were able to witness a must—the Alms Giving.  Every morning, the monks travel around the city to collect their food for the day.  The citizens turn out in droves and give food on bended knee.  Super early, but really cool to see.

Our time in Laos was exceptional to our trip, and it was all thanks to our remarkable hosts, the warm welcome of every Laotian we met, and a fabulous karaoke hut.

[rtwlovers]

Cambodia: Lara Croft vs Indiana Jones

So, a little background first:  Siem Reap in Cambodia holds one of the most fascinating cultural treasures in the world—the city of Angkor.  Ankgor is a humongous park (over 1,000 square kilometers) with over one thousand temples and, as you wander and explore, you begin to glimpse the awesomeness that this ancient city once was.  The city held one of our world’s greatest civilizations, the Khmer people, and ranks up there with Rome, Athens, and our other magnificent ancient cities.  The city’s prime was from the 9th-15th centuries, when it wasn’t only wealthy and technologically advanced, but held an enormous percentage of the world’s population.  At its peak, the city occupied an area greater than modern Paris, and its buildings use far more stones than all of the Egyptian structures combined (Wowza).  

Today, Angkor is one of the world’s top travel destinations and we were able to Indiana Jones/Lara Croft style explore the gorgeous temples (minus the tomb raiding of course).  Each temple was more marvelousness than the last and they peak at the great Ankgor Wat, the world’s largest single religious monument.  While you can zip in and out in 2 days, we splurged and spent 4 days exploring.

The unstoppable jungle has crept up on Angkor, but the result is a beautiful blend of nature and man.  Massive vines encircle the crumbling temples, which give way to gigantic trees that have replaced the temple ceilings.  And the size of Angkor means that, despite two million visitors annually, you get much of the complex to yourself.

We hired a local tuktuk driver and he became our guide and friend for the 4 days.  With Mr. Reth’s help, we visited over 15 temples!  So as to not bore you with nerding out on all of them, here are our 3 favorite visits.

 The Bayon— aka The Temple of Many Faces

This temple is our favorite because, while being breathtaking, it is also strikingly different from every other temple in Angkor.  Its most notable feature is the over 200 gigantic faces that cover the towers.  All of the faces have a serene smile that exude an enormous amount of peace, despite 400 eyes on you being slightly unsettling.  The temple is primarily dedicated to Buddha, which brings us to another interesting fact about Angkor.

The years of Angkor’s greatness saw two major religions:  first Hinduism and then Buddhism.  What’s amazing about this is that the transition of the two different religions was peaceful, and some temples are actually dedicated to both religions simultaneously.  This isn’t the only case we saw of Hinduism and Buddhism coexisting peacefully—Asia is full of examples where this is the case.  In a world that religious differences sow the most bitter and destructive divides, it’s remarkable that two major religions could be parallel as well as peaceful.

Angkor Wat— aka the ‘Why Everyone Comes to Angkor’ Temple

Angkor is the largest religious monument in the world and, as it continues to be a place of worship today, it is also the longest used religious site in the world's history.  It is certainly the largest and most elaborate of the Angkor temples, and a sure highlight to any visit.  Angkor Wat is the symbol of Cambodia and the epitome of Khmer architectural style.  It was designed to represent the Hindu’s equivalent of heaven, Mount Meru, and the home of the Hindu deities (the Mount Zion of Hinduism).  It is humbling to behold, especially if you get there for sunrise.

Ankgor Wat was originally built as a Hindu temple, but gradually transitioned into a Buddhist temple as the culture of Ankgor changed.  Today, the orange garb of the monks and shrines contrast beautifully with the dark stone of the temples.

The Museum— aka What Does This All Mean?

If you have time, we highly recommend a stop by the Angkor National Museum to give meaning behind the beauty you’ve seen.  The museum building itself is gorgeously designed to showcase their well-done exhibits.  The galleries teach you of the Khmer empire using sculptures, interactive displays, movies and descriptions in 7 languages.  The museum does an exceptional job of informing and condensing the history and art of one of the greatest and most underrated ancient civilizations of the world. 

 While the cultural aspects of Siem Reap are certainly the draw, we'd be remiss to not mention our other highlight:  The Phare Circus.  

The Phare is put on by the PPSA, which was founded by 9 men returning to Cambodia from refugee camps.  The men had found in the camps that art was a valuable tool for healing, and they began giving free drawing classes to young street children.  Over time, their efforts grew into a full K-12 education and art school and today they teach over 1,200 pupils.  All for free.

The Phare was a spectacular show and you absolutely can't miss it if you're in town.

It was a quick but full trip, and we were better for our time in Siem Reap.  We said goodbye to Mr. Reth, but promised to keep in touch on facebook and to always remember what we learned with him.

Next:  Visiting old friends in their new lives in Laos!

[rtwlovers]

The Best of Vietnam

Vietnam is absolutely one of our favorite places on our trip around the world.  It was a quick visit, but full of amazing sights, welcoming people, and some of the best food in the world.

The food.  We have to start there because it was the star of the show.  Vietnamese food is some of the healthiest in the world and is celebrated for its use of fresh ingredients.  The food is governed by the need for balance between all five fundamental tastes: spicy, sweet, bitter, salty, and sour.  Additionally they try to balance textures of crunchy, silky, fried, steamed, soup and salad.  AND use the freshest ingredients possible.  Yes, please, thank you.  Each street food vendor makes one specialty; they slow cook it all day to blend the broth and herbs to perfection.  Plus, Vietnam was a French colony and that influence seeped into these Asian dishes.  We ate it up (see what I did there?  I’m very clever...).

We started in the capital of Hanoi, the heartbeat of Vietnam.   The city bursts with raw energy.  Despite coming from the Philippines, Hanoi is the first place we felt we were in Southeast Asia.  Cone hats included.

A crazy 4 million motorbikes swarm the streets and there are very few streetlights.  Yes, it’s as insane as you think.  To cross the street, you literally walk out into traffic and everyone simply moves around you.  The system works, so long as you don’t balk and no matter how scary you keep walking.  Yikes.

We stayed in one of our favorite budget hotels of the trip the Paradise Boutique Hotel—very clean, convenient, and some of the nicest and most helpful people we encountered.  It was also located in the heart of Old Quarter, a neighborhood that packs its narrow streets with architecture, chaos, and all of the quintessential sights of SE Asia.

Our favorite sights won’t surprise you, especially this first one.  The Temple of Literature is beautifully designed garden and temple.  While it wasn’t overflowing with books as Blakely hoped, it provided a beautiful garden walk (and some hilarious people watching).  The temple is dedicated to Confucius and honors Vietnam’s finest scholars. 

Hoan Kiem Lake is a beautiful and peaceful walk, with banks full of people from every age group exercising and also temples floating the lake’s center.  Close by is Bach Ma Temple, which is believed to be the oldest temple in the city.  Also near is the Hoa Lo Prison Museum, where US prisoners of war were held during the war.  It’s remarkable that we could peacefully and safely walk the streets where conflict reined so recently.

Of course you must walk by Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, if to only fully realize how different Vietnam is to home.  The complex is incredibly important to the Vietnamese who come to pay their respects to the man who liberated Vietnam from French colonialism and founded the communist party.  He also led the Vietnamese opposition of the US in the Vietnam war.  The mausoleum is closed once a year when Ho Chi Minh’s embalmed body is sent to Russia for maintenance. Yuck.

Counterbalance the mausoleum with the Fine Arts Museum, which is very well done and a great introduction into Vietnamese art.

We moved on from Hanoi to a highlight:  Halong Bay.  A fabulous surprise awaited: We were the only two people who signed up for our cruise, so we had the entire boat to ourselves!  And we fully lived it up.  The staff was unbelievably accommodating, the rooms were gorgeous, and the Bay constantly amazed.  Between the cooking class, squid fishing, cave tour, kayaking the bay, and tai chi, we were kept very entertained!

On the way back from Halong Bay we stopped at an art exhibit that was incredibly special.  The program is set up by the government to provide opportunity to people with disabilities.  They produce some of the coolest artwork we’d seen and it was refreshing to see a government program so beautifully done.

After Halong Bay we flew to Hoi An.  What a fabulous city.  Dubbed Vietnam's "most civilized town," it is bursting with life and oozing with charm.  Hoi An was an important port until the Vietnamese moved the port down river.  When they relocated the port, the town died and the inhabitants left gorgeous architecture in peace until recently when tourism fired up interest again.  The result is a very well preserved colonial town that was a Downs delight.

We took a cooking class/bike tour with Ms. Vy where we traveled to the local market and then to a farm to see how the food is gathered before we cooked it.  We had a blast, and besides cooking, were even taught some farming skills!

Our favorite restaurants in Hoi An were two greats:  Ms Vy’s Market and Villa Soksan Square.  Both were fantastic.  They managed to be authentic and foreigner friendly, which made us fall in love with Vietnamese food even more.

Our last tourist activity was a MUST-- a day trip to Hue.  Hue was Vietnam's capital for 150 years until the 20th century and therefore it holds some of Vietnam's greatest architectural treasures.  

Our first stop was a Buddhist temple and an icon of Vietnam:  Thien Mu Pagoda.  The complex is full of structures and even caves to explore-- the temples exude peace, which is a nice refuge in the bustle of Vietnam.

Next we visited the Imperial Enclosure which is a small royal city within a citadel.  It holds the emperor's residence, temples and the main buildings of state.  Unfortunately it was very badly bombed during the French and American wars, but those buildings that remain are fascinating.

Construction of our next stop, the magnificent Khai Dinh Tomb, took 11 years.  Because Vietnam was controlled by the French at this time, it is a fascinating blend of Asian and European styles.  Even the stone guards in the Honor Courtyard have a mixture of Western and Eastern features.  The outside is a dark grey stone, while the inside is bursting with color.

The last thing we did in Vietnam was also the most bizarre—we followed the path well traveled to get custom clothes.  We opted for Kimmy Tailor and were set up with two stylists who amazed us with their knowledge on style.  The shop had iPads for you to browse options, but the best way order clothes is to pull up your own reference from the internet and have them copy it.  It felt odd getting fitted for such glamor wear, but we loved it!

With our bellies and hearts full of Vietnam, we left knowing it would top the list.  We pushed back our departure from Hoi An (twice!) but eventually did have to leave.  We couldn’t miss the next spot:  Cambodia! 

[rtwlovers]

He Said, She Said. Part 2

“This reminds me of New York.”                                                                             -The best compliment we could give a place.

We asked all of our Egyptian tour guides if they were offended by the term "Muslim Extremists."  Aboudi said it best: “I simply cannot call them Muslims.  They are evil men, who twist the Quar’an for their own gain."     

“Trust in Allah, but tie your camel to a post.”                                                                  -A Muslim proverb                         

“Always uncomfortable, never unsafe.”                                                                -Our motto for the trip                                                                

“Is that…?  Yep, Mmbop is playing on the radio.”                                                -Ryan during a taxi ride in South America

A woman in Buenos Aires, after she finished giving Blakely directions to the train, finished with: “Watch your purse, and don’t talk to anyone.”

“No, you don’t understand.  I need clothes with serious durability.  Like half spandex, half tire leather.”                                                                                      -Blakely, while shopping to refresh her backpack, to a naive shop attendant pushing cashmere

“There’s a Hermés on our block.  We’re good.”                                                  -Blakely checking out the safety of our new neighborhood in Buenos Aires

“Watch your head!  If you hit your head, watch your language!”                       -Our boat driver in Belize

“You know what word I can’t get behind?  Abreast.”                                           -Blakely to Ryan on a long bus ride in South America.  People ask us what we talked about.  The answer is: Everything.

[rtwlovers]

Philippines = Paradise

The Philippines.  A group of 7,000+ islands of paradise in the South Pacific, and also one of the places we looked forward to the most. 

We started in the capital city of Manilla, which we mainly used it as a headquarters for launching our itinerary.  When there are 7,000+ islands to choose from, your itinerary in the Philippines can be the biggest challenge.  We decided to take the boats less traveled down the West side and thoroughly enjoyed it.  While in Manilla, we stayed at the Boutique Hostel, which was simple but really well located, and enjoyed a fabulous food market at night.  

This was our first stop in SE Asia proper so wow.  $5 beach massages, all the fresh juices you could drink, and warm people who take hosting visitors very seriously.

We took a short flight south to the biggest city on the island of Palawan called Puerto Princesa.  Besides being a great city full of awesome restaurants, it is the perfect hub to start off exploring the island.  We started big.

A short drive from the city is a magnificent natural wonder of the world called Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park.  This name does NOT do it justice.  Into a limestone mountain, there is a cave that stretches for 15 miles (!!!) with a river winding through it.  And yes, you can take a boat into this massive cave.  So yes, we did.

The National Park is extremely well done and preserving the cave’s natural structure is top priority.  The only boats allowed are registered rowboats, so the fumes of an engine wouldn’t disrupt the air quality or sound waves of the cave.  The boat tour has an exceptional audio guide, with headphones so as to not disrupt the cave’s natural environment.  While the guide does have a light, it is used minimally during the 30-minute tour.  All of these restrictions keep us from disturbing the cave or its living inhabitants.

Yes.  Living.  There are a whopping 9 different species of bats found in the cave, among other reptiles (Oh don’t worry—just some lizards and casual pythons) and birds found in the park.  Luckily, as you glide through this cave, the massive structures and chambers distract you from all of that.  The largest chamber is about 2.5 million square meters in volume.  So crazy. 

The next day we moved from Puerto Princesa to another highlight:  A teensy island town called Port Barton.  This is the place that SE Asia dreams are made of.  We stayed for 3 nights, and operated on a strict schedule.  Yoga.  Brunch.  Relax.  Massage.  Dinner.  Sleep.  Repeat.

Blakely had one of the best days of her life in Port Barton.  In addition to the above, her first Huffington Post article was published while here.  As if being published wasn’t enough, floods of congratulations and love came to us from across the world.  Not too bad.

We also got out for a kayak trip to our very own island (something there are PLENTY of here!).  So fun to get out on the water.

We moved on from Port Barton up to El Nido, which is one of the better known destinations in the Philippines.  Instead of staying right in El Nido, we got the recommendation to stay a cove over at Corong Corong Beach.  Very good call.  This beach is charm in itself—somehow a community of French ex-pats have moved in and created a sub world for themselves.  We ate delicious food, rented a sailboat from our new friend Thierry, and took an island-hopping excursion to find hidden beaches and private islands.  All musts.

Next was another must:  the small town of Coron on Busuanga Island. 

To get there we took a very memorable ferry, of which we only have these two misleading pictures.  It was 7 hours of the biggest waves we've ever seen.  The compartment where the passengers sat was plastic chairs and benches.  For most of the ride, the huge waves meant we were letting on water so they had to close the wooden slabs that should be opened to let air flow in.  7 hours of being locked in a wooden box, rocking and tumbling.  It was awful.  

On the plus side, we met two people who were on the shuttle the next day. Their same shuttle took on so much water that their boat had 3-feet of sitting water in their compartment.  It's vital to check weather before taking these boats.

The main reason for going to Coron is a good one:  Scuba diving World War II wrecks.  It is listed by Forbes as one of the top 10 scuba diving sites in the world, and with good reason.  The Japanese occupied the Philippines during the war, and a dozen sunken Japanese warships of all different depths and difficulty make a gorgeous backdrop for diving.  We chose Neptune Dive Center and were thoroughly impressed (which is hard to do after our diving in Palau)—for a super reasonable rate, we got a private boat, guide, cook and boat driver.  We love SE Asia.

Ryan’s grandfather served in the Navy during the war, so we were able to talk to him about the wrecks we dove and he looked back in his journal to compare where he was when they sank.  It was fascinating and a bit bizarre to dive through war wrecks—a stark reminder that the violence of one generation can give way to peace in the next, or vice versa.

Neptune Dive Center took us to the Morazan Maru, Olympia Maru, and Teru Kaze Maru wrecks.  You’re able to see where the blasts occurred, and admire gorgeous coral and fish surrounding the wreckage.  All were absolutely amazing.

So ended our time in the Philippines.  From mile-long-caves, to yoga on the beach, to underwater wrecks and as many massages as we could handle, it was a fantastic introduction into SE Asia.

[rtwlovers]

Palau: A Scuba Fantasy

Most people, unless you’re a fan of Survivor, have never heard of the tiny island country of Palau.  Set on the western edge of Micronesia, these sum-odd 250 islands were a US territory from World War II until 1977 when they were granted their independence.  The transition was smooth and uneventful, and today Palau is leading the way in preserving their greatest asset: their natural resources.  It is one of the world leaders in the ecological preservation movement and, once you arrive, you can tell.

All of these facts can be summed up with our declaration:  Palau is no question the best place we’ve ever scuba dived.  Their waters contain more big wildlife and more small wildlife than any other place, a wider variety of formations to dive (from choral holes, to walls, to wrecks), and fewer crowds to ruin the experience.  It’s the #1 Wonder of the Underwater World for a reason.  It’s fantastic.

We partnered with Fish n Fins for our dives and were extremely impressed.  They did a fantastic job of matching up divers into groups and ensuring that every dive on every day was a spectacular experience. 

We dove for three days and it wasn’t near enough.  Palau has hundreds of dives that will continue to challenge and excite even the most experienced diver.  On our first day, we started with Fairyland, which is a simple reef dive with minimal current.  WOW.  The first dive (normally a check-up to make sure you know what you’re doing) is usually unexciting and a bit frustrating.  NOT in Palau.  The visibility was incredible and the abundance of fish was mind-boggling! 

Next up, the Blue Holes.  Palau’s Blue Holes consists of four large holes that open into a gigantic coral cavern.  Truly incredible.  While the wildlife was impressive, our favorite aspect of the dive was the terrain.  Being inside a gigantic underwater cavern is such a cool experience.

 The next day was a treat.  We started at the world-famous Jellyfish Lake for a once in a lifetime experience.  Jellyfish Lake is connected to the ocean through the porous limestone, but it is sufficiently isolated enough that a large population of jellyfish were able to evolve into an entirely new species.  This species is by far our favorite type of Jellyfish in the world. 

These jellyfish are a golden color and (get this) are completely harmless to humans.  They don’t sting, and their vast numbers mean you can swim through the masses safely and enjoy the CRAZY texture of the jellyfish.  It is positively unreal.  And once you get past how weird it is, really fun.

After this we boated back to the Blue Holes and focused on the coral wall formation.  This was one of our highlights for wildlife—countless turtles, schools of fish, a reef shark, and tons of grey tipped sharks lurking out in the deep blue!

 Lastly, we headed to the German Channel, which is home to the Manta Ray cleaning station.   We dove to a sandy spot at a depth of 60 feet and kneeled down to wait.  Then, out of the deep blue, a gigantic manta appeared.  As it got closer, it kept getting bigger, and bigger, until it was only a few meters away.  It’s graceful wing movements are only matched by its insane wingspan.  Then as it circled around and disappeared, another manta appeared and circled the spot.  We kneeled on the sea floor for our entire dive, mesmerized by these creatures.  Truly spectacular. 

On our last day, Fish n Fins treated us to a grand finale of diving.

First up, another blue hole formation called the Virgin Blue Hole.  This coral hole is a straight drop to a 90 foot depth where you find an underwater cavern.  The cavern is fairly wide, and after about 150 horizontal feet it opens up into the open ocean.  Then you can continue the dive along the northern coral wall, which has tons of crevices, holes and small caves.  WOW. 

Next we went to a wall dive site called the New Drop Off.  This was no normal wall dive (of course, it’s Palau) so it ended in a gorgeous coral plateau that allowed us to slowly ascend and make the most of our underwater time.  The mass of wildlife against the colorful coral was a prime example of how Palau’s high visibility and properly preserved natural resources raise it to the highest level of diving in the world. 

We opted for a third dive because of the site—our very first wreck dive!  

Fish n Fins took us to the Chuyo Maru wreck—Chuyo Maru is a coastal freighter that was bombed during Operation Discretion One on March 30-31, 1944.  Diving a wreck is one of the coolest things we’ve done.  The sharp metal and boat structure is overgrown with gorgeous coral and masses of fish.  The atmosphere is subdued but poetic and 45 minutes wasn’t near enough time to explore!

On our last adventures in Palau, we actually stayed above water.  First up was a kayaking through the many limestone islands dotting the blue ocean.  We found caves, deserted beaches, and countless coves.  By far the coolest was free diving through an underwater cave that led to a hidden lagoon!  The lagoon was completely enclosed, and completely ours.  

Lastly, we took a road trip around Palau with some of our diving friends.  Our favorite sites from the day were some 3000 year old ruins and a breathtaking waterfall we could swim in.

If you can’t tell, we loved Palau.  It is one of the most undiscovered treasures of our world and we are so grateful we could experience it!  It was hard to pick a favorite-- can you pick for us?

[rtwlovers]

Bolivia - Our Quest to the Salt Flats

This is the tale of our quest to see the spectacular Bolivian Salt Flats.  And yes, it was a quest.  Renowned around the world for their striking beauty, it’s a testament to their draw that so many travel so far to see them.  They are in the MIDDLE of nowhere.  No, not even the middle.  They are in the outskirts of nowhere.

The adventure starts in San Pedro de Atacama, which is a desert town that bears a striking resemblance to a Wild West movie set.  The town’s main claim to greatness is that it has a combination of high altitude and dry air, which makes it the perfect star gazing spot.  This past Spring, San Pedro de Atacama became home to the world’s largest astronomy observatory, which allows scientists to probe deeper into outer space than ever before.  Nerd’s delight.  

We took a tour of the night sky by SPACE Star Tours which has the largest telescopes in South America and wonderfully entertaining guides.  Words fail when it comes to the wonder that is outer space.  Our awe at our galaxy, and the galaxies beyond, is as indefinable as the limits of space itself.

The other main activity in San Pedro was obviously planning our next step in the adventure to see the salt flats.  None of the companies will book online, so you have to book in person, and the travel reviews range from fantastic to positively terrifying.  We did our research in San Pedro before booking our transfer, and thankfully, there is a wonderful tourism office that helped enormously. 

We took a day-long transfer in a very dusty car up to Uyuni, Bolivia.  We thought San Pedro was a tiny town, until we drove through the dusty roads leading to Uyuni where there isn’t a sign of street names or human life in sight.  We realized this is officially off the beaten path.  Thankfully the scenery is as breathtaking as the roads are bumpy.

In Uyuni we stayed at a simple hotel called Oasisa Blanco and it paid for itself in its recommendation of a reliable tour company for the salt flats.  We walked around the dusty town negotiating and finally booking our tour for the next day.  It is hard to imagine any place being worth the time and (butt) pain it took to get here, but we would soon be able to decide for ourselves.

The salt flats.  An area twice the size of Rhode Island, this natural phenomenon beats all others.  It doesn’t make any sense to me, but here is the scientific explanation of how on Earth this is even possible:

So, about 40,000 years ago (!), there was a large lake where the salt flats are today.  Over the next 20,000 years, the lake transformed and eventually evaporated, leaving behind all of its salt content. Even today, water sits just under the salt layer, which ranges from 10s of inches to a few meters.  As the water under the salt continues to evaporate, it causes these crazy hexagonal shapes in the salt, which continue as far as you can see.  The entire area (which covers a crazy 4,086 square miles) is exceptionally flat and only varies one meter in altitude.  But then in contrast, the surrounding Andes Mountains explode out of the Earth.  It is THE craziest natural phenomenon we’ve ever seen.

Oh, the flats also serve as a breeding ground for several species of flamingos.  Yes, seriously. 

The breathtaking terrain also serves as a dream opportunity for cheesy photo enthusiasts.  In our group we had some VERY enthusiastic participants, and we obviously couldn’t resist some of the gimmicks. 

During certain times of the year, large portions of the flats flood and create a beautiful reflective surface.  We made it for the very beginning of the season so a small portion of the flat was flooded and served as a backdrop for the most spectacular sunset you can imagine.

Yes, the ridiculously difficult trip to get to the salt flats was very worth it (and that’s saying something).  It is a place that can only be described as otherworldly.  Our trip has been full of natural wonders, but this one is by far the most unique.