russosdiary - Tumblr blog

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Landlocked till who knows when ? Not complaining at all. Actually feeling more grounded then ever. Checklist for home improvements almost finished. Not one swell over 10ft this summer anywhere, weird? @surfnavarro locked into the R70, one of the biggest waves ever ridden at Cloudbreak. If you have a few minutes please read up on the illegal fishing boats from China about to rape the Galápagos Islands. You can read more in my bio. https://www.instagram.com/p/CDigQt6hGAE/?igshid=u3c25qzpjexd

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In 2011 I spent two months at the end of the road with a cast of characters. We experienced some amazing moments and learned so much about the ocean and ourselves. This was early one morning, @billykemper was first out and swung on the first wave of the set. @nathan_florence was paddling out from boat and got to watch his friend start the day off of what would be a long fun day trading waves with friends. These two happen to be battling it out this year for biggest paddle award. Anyone even know how to measure a wave from bottom to top ? https://www.instagram.com/p/CDcda6Vh5f2/?igshid=1isr7bznrsod3

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The one and only Sion Milosky. Dragon slayer of the biggest wave in the world ever paddled into. Inspiration to all walks of life, motivator to the next generations. https://www.instagram.com/p/CDZffOoBbWm/?igshid=1xwx3mrgz48m1

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The ride of a lifetime on the board inspired by life experiences. @nathanfletcher rides the green monster like his forefathers rode monsters of Makaha and future generations to come who will discover and ride big waves. We were just three small humans in a panga boat, captained by a local diver who was the only person crazy enough to take us out to wave. We had no idea what the ocean was going to present to us this day. By the grace of something greater then ourselves, we made it back to land alive. The man the myth the legend, Nathan Fletcher. https://www.instagram.com/p/CDXpqLWh57Y/?igshid=ma3slvjseqpv

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“Green Machine”. Hand crafted by @stretchboards in Santa Cruz. Designed for big game wave hunting. @nathanfletcher and his sword standing on the edge of earth amongst giants. This was taken a couple hours after we nearly lost him. The first known ridden waves by Nathan and @deepwatersurf. Sequence coming next. You can read the full article in the @surfersjournal https://www.instagram.com/p/CDR-kIKBdtU/?igshid=fubozli8dtp4

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Before the swell. After the swell. https://www.instagram.com/p/CCrhiWJBoOE/?igshid=1ik8uijd40wfq

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The swell was like a locomotive at full speed impossible to slow down. Chile's territorial shape is among the world's most unusual. From north to south, Chile extends 4,270 km (2,653 mi), and yet it only averages 177 km (110 mi) east to west. With our lives in the trust of @deepwatersurf and Dexter we pointed our compass north and accelerated to get ahead of the swell. 😂 The next 24hrs... https://www.instagram.com/p/CCmBUPJBXyH/?igshid=lmh5zxferknk

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The morning started with @surfnavarro and @deepwatersurf paddling into some raw waves. Shooting from a jet ski allowed me to move around the ocean for a variety of perspectives. https://www.instagram.com/p/CCZRTcCBgjR/?igshid=1143t37r2tq5h

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@deepwatersurf got a @whatsapp text from @surfnavarro that read “this is the one” Kohl called @nathanfletcher and myself to break the news. An invitation into a foreign country by the locals, is highly recommended. Southern Hemisphere gears turning up just when the Northern Hemisphere started down shifting. The storm was forming unlike any before. Planes, trains, and automobiles we arrive and took our first breath of the high altitude air of Santiago. Ramon and his soldiers were at the unknown location, spot X, base camp built, on a cliffside waiting for our arrival. The road to spot X was halted just an hour out of Santiago. Unknown reasons. As long as the eye could see, no movement. Nathan finished all his snacks in 10 min. Kohl went for a walk. And I photographed this lady in a Red dress. After two hours the gridlock started to loosen. Back on the road we hugged the coast hwy late into the night. We eventually turned into a quiet village for some supor and sleep. The air was much cooler now. We huddled around the table and blew on our Cazuela soup. It was the perfect meal after a long day and cold night. Tomorrow am we reach base-camp. Pre sunrise we loaded up our truck and got back on the hwy. The text from Ramon said “metal gate goats for sale” We zig zagged our way through dirt roads and found the gate. The sun was coming up now, we got our eyes on basecamp and the roaring 40’s. To be continued… https://www.instagram.com/p/CCUR0GCBNY4/?igshid=jyx4jlzqfk3g

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@patrickgud at Log Cabins North Shore Oahu, February 2016. Visual experience captured by surfer and photographer.

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@nathanfletcher outer reef ski lift by @hankfotomyworld. Hawaii, 2016 #120mm

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@danedamus in the channel of Cloudbreak Fiji on @wailoaloaboardriders boat. 2016 #35mm

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Sleep, dream, repeat. #120film

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Urban Palm Club: Where's your palm ?

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Timeless. @john_john_florence Fiji June 6th 2012. #r3d #still 50mm

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Consistent west swells erode the sand across the north shore and expose the artifacts from acting Hawaiian past times.

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Puerto Escondido and one really early morning shoot for @surfer_magazine big issue a couple years ago.