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People suffering from French citizenship, you mean

THE FRENCH????????????????????

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ultimate ships challenge ♡ ‘chemistry off the charts’ ships (1/5) ↬ teen wolf | steter

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i can't vibe with anyone who thinks icarus was an ignorant idiot for flying too close to the sun. "oh i'd never do that i would have remembered my father's warning and been fine". do you seriously think that after years of imprisonment, feeling the sun on your face and the open air beneath your wings, you would be able to focus on anything but the joy of being alive and free? do you actually think that if you were given the opportunity to go where nobody has never been before, you wouldn't want to push it to the limit? to dare to be the first to try what no one else has ever even thought possible? do you honestly think you're too good for your own human nature? look me in the eyes and tell me if i strapped a pair of wings to your back that could take you wherever you wanted to go whenever you pleased that you'd be careful and sensible about it. you are not better than icarus just because you have the benefit of his example.

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Franz Kafka, from a diary entry feature "The Diaries of Franz Kafka: 1910-1923,"

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Queen Fria from the Flash Gordon Comics

A simple, comfy costume, while still looking snazzy! I'll be using a bright teal velour & sheer sparkle textured poly.

Here's the fabric:

The outer layer (the glittery poly) is actually more opaque than I was planning on, but it has a great frosty texture and isn't itchy, so I'm not upset.

I'm using the free MOOD Davalia bodysuit pattern for the bodysuit.

When making lined stretch bodysuits, it's important that the fashion fabric (the pretty fabric on the outside) is controlling the stretch. This means the lining should be more stretchy than the outside. This ensures the fashion fabric doesn't warp from a less stretchy lining. I'm using a thin, super 4-way stretch jersey for the lining. It has a lot more give than the velour, which is thicker and hasa lot less stretch on the Y axis. Some people like to use powermesh, but I find it to be too strong of a stretch, and want my garments to be less compressive.

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Wednesday Addams - Rave'N dress

11/30/2022

In the third episode of Wednesday on Netflix, the titular character attends a Sadie Hawkins all-white prom. She wears a dress, ostensibly reposessed, by Thing, from the local oddities and antiques shop, that is in fact a vintage nylon blend Alaïa gown sourced by costuming super-star Colleen Atwood.

I was torn about costuming anything from the show, but after seeing the dance montage, I couldn't reasonably keep her off the list. It's going to be a great costume for dance parties at cons, and I'm particlarily interested in wearing it with my friend who cosplays as Number Five from The Umbrella Academy.

I had to go to to Youtube for details of the dress, so pardon the screencaps below.

The Material:

The material is what most cosplayers would refer to as organza, and I assume Ms. Atwood called it nylon so as to distinguish it from its fancier cousin, silk organza.

The first article linked states that it is actually a mottled black-brown tye-dye, but as brown is my least favorite color on the planet, I will be using plain black organza, perhaps with a touch of a color-shift fabric on a sub-layer to add some visual intrigue (pizazz, you might say.)

The structure of the dress, from the top down:

Notably, there are no seams running accross the shoulder in the transparent yoke. This means the replica will need to be created with the pattern shoulders taped together.

The center back will also need to be on the fold, to avoid showing a seam.

Then, the above-bust flounce. From the back view above, we can see there are two lines of ruffle. These could be integrated into the pattern, but I'll likely tack them straight onto the dress bodice, trim the seam allowance, and cover with some braid.

From the back view, we can see the interior non-transparent dress is:

structured like a corset

posessed of straps

not attached to the transparent yoke

Ergo, it is effectively two dresses. Now, I'm in a bit of a rush, and I like things to be easy, breezy, covergirl.

Therefore.

I'll be making one dress, thanks very much.

By layering the interior solid fabric and the exterior organza on all pattern pieces, and making a unified garment, the complexity will decrease - no corseting required - and the edge binding/lining will be more complete. Organza is itchy, and this is for the best.

So:

Snug fit bodice

Transparent yoke

Collar and front placket, down to waist

Under-arm zip (b/c no back zip) if you don't want a full front placket

I'll be avoiding a back zipper, just because of the transparent yoke. usually, I'm all for faking the buttons and slapping a zipper on the back, but I'd like to maintain the smooth look and collar, given that she''s wearing her hair up.

The solid material would best be something with a low stretch profile and a little heft. I've been on a denim kick recently, because it's cotton with built in interfacing, but something with a little shine might be better.

I'll call it 1-1/2 yards for the bodice + 1 yd (conservative) for the ruffle.

Now, onto the skirt.

From this objectively terrible screencap, we can see that the skirt is:

Ankle length

Floofy

Gather-tiered

Has at least three layers

I can tell that the skirt is tiered and gathered because of the stripes of texture I can see in the image, roughly 4" and 10" down the skirt from the waistline. It's also the only explanation for the sheer volume of the dress, as we can see when she kicks at the 0:16-0:19 mark in the dance scene.

I see two layers - edges that stick up, not at the hem - at 1/3 and 2/3 down the skirt length in the video. It looks like they might be asymetric, but I'm not about that life, so I'll be ignoring that possibility. These are two layers on top of the base layer skirt.

Three layers of organza + modesty layer.

The modesty layer would be simplest to costruct out of cotton - it runs through the machine quickly, and gathers well. But, it can be stiff, and catch on itself.

To maintain the floofy flow, I think I'll use something thin, slinky, and soft.

For the gathering: for ultimate floof, use 2.5x the fabric required for the measurement. Ergo, with a 26" waist, the first tier of the skirt would be 66" wide. I'll use tiers in the 8-10" height range.

The math here is Fergalicous to do, so I won't be doing it. WeAllSew has a super great blog post about a cute as kittens floor length rainbow tiered skirt, so it's a good reference!

They list their fabric requirements as:

3/4 yard (44” wide) – Upper-tier (U)

5/8 yard (44” wide) – Middle-tier 1 (M1)

7/8 yard (44” wide) – Middle-tier 2 (M2)

1-1/2 yards (44” w.) – Middle-tier 3 (M3)

1-7/8 yards (44” wide ) – Lower-tier (L)

Their skirt is for a 40" hip, so I'll need a bit more, but I won't be needing it quite as long, so i'll need a bit less. How much more or less? No clue. I'm not doing the math, it's easier to do with just folding the fabric.

The yardage here sums to 5.6 yards, So I'll aim for 6.5 yards. But wait... that's just the base skirt!!

With a skirt layer at 2/3 the length, I'll need the top U, M1, M2 + 1/2 of M3.

With a skirt layer at 1/3 the length, I'll need U, M1 + 1/2 of the M2 layer.

Ergo, I need: 10-1/2 yards for the skirt 💀

3 U : 3 * 3/4 = 2.25

3 M1 : 3 * 5/8 = ~2

2-1/2 M2 : 2.5 * 7/8 = ~2

1-1/2M3 : 1.5 * 1-1/2 = 2.25

1 L : 1 * 1-7/8 = ~2

This math does have some wiggle room, but it's better to over-estimate than under-estimate. This skirt is big, team. I'll be visiting the dollar discount alley (I love you, Seoul) Before I try to get it anywhere else.

What else?

A little belt, not even relevant at this point of discussion.

Some buttons

Black interfacing

162 miles of black thread

Pockets

Joyously, with a skirt this big, a little pocket can go unnoticed. Unfortunately, with all the layers and gathering, having a side slit to access a pocket on an interior layer would not work too well, as it would be hard to access.

Might as well wear leggings with side pockets, and just hitch the whole shebang up if access is needed. Given the belt, could add a (small) fanny pack to it. That would work very well.

That's all for now -- will update with details as work commences. :)

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Test 2

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Barbra Streisand's 1969 Academy Awards Ensemble

I love you Barbra~~~

So! This lovely little number was worn to the '69 Academy Awards (Oscars) the year 'Streiss tied with Katherine Hepburn for best actress. Kathy girl wasn't even in attendance and the dude who accepted the award in her stead didn't let Barbra speak first because....men.

There's a rumor - a 50 year old rumor - that Streiss had no idea her outfit was transparent. This is a lie of massive proportions. She knew what she had on, and besides the moment she tripped on her super-long pants, she worked it.

The outfit appears, pased on the way it flows in video, to be made of black silk chiffon with large flat transparent sequins sewn all over.

Material:

Fabric with sequins pre-sewn tends to be expensive, with even the cheap, questionable stuff being in the $13/yard category.

After an extensive search, I found some tulle mesh with small black sequins on it, sewn in a squiggly pattern, at an acceptable price. The mesh has a much different drape than the silk, but a semi-nude cosplay is a semi-nude cosplay, and you get a lot more leeway.

The sequin spray wasn't dense enough for me, and the opacity was a little too transparent, so I settled on 2 layers of the sequin mesh over 2 layers of plain mesh.

Construction:

For the Shirt,

I used my favorite simple seam block, Simplicity S9121. The modifications include:

No center back seam

3/4" tightening of neck

6" (cropped to 4") extension to hem

5" sleeve extension

I finished the seams by topstitching close to the original seam pline, then trimming all the seam allowance away. This left very small seam lines, which look quite clean.

The chest modesty panels were made with satin, edges rolled, and then they were sewn to the bottom two layers of the bodice.

bottom hem was a simple double roll. sleeves are as of yet unhemmed, waiting for the cuffs.

For the pants,

I wouldn't recommend the pattern I used. I wanted to avoid an elastic waist, so I used the pants from my favorite Vouge V1717. They have double pleats in the front, which allowed me to control the size without getting muffin-top from elastic. The waist is ugly as all get out, by you can't see it much through the tulle layers. There's also a zipper fly, which I hope doesn't snag any fabric.

I cropped the pants to the knee, and will add a double circle flounce. I ran out of fabric, however, so I'm waiting on that to arrive first.

For the accessories,

The collar is made with cheap-o sateen and an oversized detachable collar pattern from Etsy. I won't be linking the pattern here, because I wasn't impressed with its size or instructions. I had to heavily modify it, almost to the point of skipping the pattern and just self drafting.

For the cuffs, I'll just make two rectangles, sized to the sleeve.

All the white details will get an extra helping of white iridescent sequins, just for good measure.

For the statue, I think I'll order a plastic one, drill a hole in its head, and install a straw and drink baggie.