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shafa271 · 6 months

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Wedding of Prince Mateen of Brunei

The wedding celebrations of Prince Abdul Mateen Bolkiah and Anisha Rosnah Isa binti Adam Kalebic have started in Brunei. I still haven't gotten a very clear picture of her engagement ring yet but it is a very large diamond.

Here is the full schedule. The events on the 14th and 15th should be when the bride wears a tiara. I'm going to put links to videos and articles inline with each event even if they don't include the bride and groom. The ceremonies are still interesting to watch.

3 - Majlis Khatam Quran

7 - Majlis Istiadat Bersuruh Diraja (x)(x)(x)(x)

8 - Majlis Istiadat Membuka Gendang Jaga-Jaga (x)(x)(x)

9 - Majlis Istiadat Menghantar Tanda Diraja dan Pertunangan Diraja and Majlis Istiadat Menerima Tanda Diraja dan Pertunangan Diraja (x)(x)(x)(x)(x)(x)(x)(x)

10 - Majlis Istiadat Berbedak Pengantin Diraja (x)(x)(x)(x)(x)(x)(x)

11 - Majlis Istiadat Akad Nikah Diraja (x)(x)(x)(x)

14 - Majlis Bersanding Pengantin Diraja (x)(x)(x)(x)(x)(x)(x)(x)(x)

15 - Majlis Persantapan Diraja (x)(x)(x)(x)(x)(x)

16 - Majlis Istiadat Membaca Doa Selamat dan Menutup Gendang Jaga-Jaga (x)(x)(x)

The first event was the Majlis Khatam Al-Quran where Anisha read the Quran. It's wasn't broadcast like some of the later events will be but someone in attendance posted a clip if you want to watch. Her dress is a Baju Kurung made of Tenunan Brunei fabric by Teh Firdaus.

Then Anisha wore another dress by Teh Firdaus for the Berbedak Mandi after the public ceremonial events on the 9th. The bride and groom weren't seen during the first two parts where the official betrothal gifts were presented but she is looking at the gifts in the photos. I noticed diamond earrings, a ring that looks like it's from Chaumet's Josephine Aigrette collection, a necklace with a large colored stone (maybe sapphire) pendant, a Patek Philippe watch, and a big diamond feather amongst the gifts.

On the 10th was the Majlis Istiadat Berbedak Pengantin Diraja or Royal Powdering Ceremony when the couples' family applies colored paste and scented oils to their hands. It's my favorite part of Bruneian royal weddings because of the beautiful outfit worn by the bride. It looks like Anisha used the same gold jewelry as Mateen's sisters except for the belt. She also wore the same diamond earrings that Princess Fadzillah and Princess Azemah wore for their powdering ceremonies.

The Akad Nikah was next which is when the couple are officially married. On the left is Prince Mateen at the Berbedak and on the right is him at the Akad Nikah.

The Majlis Bersanding Pengantin Diraja and parade on the 14th finally brings us the first tiara! The now Princess Anisha wore some major diamonds and a simple dress made of a beautiful woven patterned fabric. We got new information about the tiara that was first worn last year by Princess Azemah. It was made by Singapore based jeweler, Flower Diamond, and features over 132 carats of diamonds.

The Majlis Persantapan Diraja on the 15th is the last big event. It's a massive banquet at Istana Nurul Iman with around 5,000 guests. Princess Anisha wore Queen Saleha's Diamond Tiara which has been worn by several of her new sisters-in-law for their wedding celebrations. She did not use the optional heart diamond center but did use the blue and pink diamond toppers.

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shafa271 · 1 year

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Headdresses: Gable hood

Gable hood is the most notable type of headwear worn by English noblewomen and well-to-do women during the first decades of the 16th century in the Tudor period. It is called Gable hood because the shape of this hood was similar to the gable of a house and wasn’t rounded in outline in contrast to French hood.

Below you can see a really well done recreation of English Gable hood.

Gable hood and English hood are often used interchangeably, but some specialists in the Tudor era break it down into several further categories.

The earliest version of English hood is Steeple hood that was very popular and fashionable from the mid-1400s to the first half of 1500s. King Henry VIII’s infamous grandmother, Lady Margaret Beaufort, and his mother Elizabeth of York wore Steeple hoods, and we can see these two women wearing such hoods on their portraits. Steeple Hood looks has a pointed, simple shape, and it is less adorned than the later versions of English hoods. The face of a lady who wears such a hood is framed by decorated side panels called lappets, and a veil was always worn loose behind.

On the portraits of Elizabeth of York and Lady Margaret Beaufort, these early hoods show hair scraped well back off women’s faces.

In the later years of the 16th century, the more proper and more official model of English hood became popular in England – it can be called classic Gable hood that was worn over several layers, completely concealing a lady’s hair. This type of English hood represented a complex construct with a box-shaped back and two tube-shaped, hanging veils. The hanging veils and lappets were pinned up in the most elaborate ways.

This portrait of Catherine of Aragon was painted around 1518, and she wore a classic Gable hood there.

The silhouette of Catherine’s headwear is quite similar to that of Lady Beaufort, but it is also more decorative and complex, not as austere and strict as the earlier versions of this hood. The starched front section of the veil on Catherine’s hood is clearly wired and stiffened, and has an expensive jeweled billiament along the front, which later became a prominent part of French hood and an essential part of decorating any elaborate and fashionable headpiece. The long sections on either side of the hood on Catherine’s portrait – lappets – are also jeweled and embroidered, which wasn’t a part of Steeple hoods; two strips of fabric are sewn inside the top front of the hood to hide the hair.

Unlike French hood, Gable hood was unique to England and was worn only by Englishwomen. I would have always preferred French hood over Gable hood if I had lived in those distant times, and I truly think that English ladies should have warmly thanked Anne Boleyn for bringing French hood into fashion. I’m not astonished that fashions of wearing exquisite and beautiful French hoods caught on like vehement wildfire when Anne returned to England from France.

Look at the picture below. You can compare French hood and Gable hood. I think you like French hood more than Gable hood.

After Anne Boleyn’s execution in May 1536, Jane Seymour became the Queen of England, and she wasn’t fond of frank and eccentric French fashions. There was a short-lived revival of English fashions, including Gable hood, while Jane was the queen, but after her death in childbirth majority of ladies at the royal court returned to wearing French hood.

Some English highborn noblewomen, who had conservative tastes for fashions, continued wearing Gable hood well into the 1540s, already after the deaths of Anne Boleyn and Jane Seymour. At that time, the structure and complexity of Gable hood didn’t change significantly from the headdress worn in the times of Catherine of Aragon. Jeweled billiament varied widely in design, shape, and color, and it usually ended above jaw line rather than at chin line. Embroidery of lappets and stylish pinning also varied in their types and style, but the construction and shape of English hood remained almost consistent throughout the time while it was still worn in England.

In the 1530s, a new, lighter form of headwear appeared, which was usually worn by young women. This type of hood combined the square shape of Gable hood with the flatter, less bulky silhouette of French hood. On the portrait of Anne Cresacre, the wife of John More the Younger, we can see her wearing such a hood.

This hood is called by some specialists in the Tudor costume a “transitional” English hood for lack of a proper or better word. It lays flat across the top and bends down at the sides, creating a square profile; a veil pinned over this hood falls down the back.

Sources

www.theanneboleynfiles.com, Anne Boleyn files (my favorite source of information)

https://hathawaysofhaworth.wordpress.com/2012/09/20/the-easy-gable-hood-guide/

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/gable.html

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shafa271 · 1 year

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