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How to Organize Your Garage Like a Pro

Spring Cleaning: Start by Organizing Your Garage

Now that the cold dark season we call winter is coming to an end, we’re finally starting to see some hope in the form of blue skies and slightly less freezing temperatures. Ah, spring is right around the corner. Naturally, the garage is the messiest place in our house during the winter months. There’s sand, dirt and ice caking the garage floors and random things cluttering the sides of the garage because no ond wants to linger in the ice box of a garage to put things away. I think enough is enough, time organize the garage to bring order to this chaos.

Vision

My love language is organization. I love it when there’s a place for everything and day in and day out everything is in it’s place. The hard part is getting everybody else that I live with to be on the same page. When figuring out what we wanted to keep in the garage, we made a list. First, it needed to store daily usable tools like brooms, ladders and extension cords. Second, it needed bins for all the seasonal things that we are holding on to, for example baby clothes, Christmas lights, cold weather accessories and craft supplies. Third, we needed a deep freezer. With two fast growing boys in the family it’s nearly impossible to keep food stocked. Buying in bulk keeps the kids happy and leaves more time for mom and dad to be at home and not at the store. Lastly, the space needed to store all of our cleaning supplies. Our laundry room is small and lacks cabinets. When picking out an organization system it needed to be be easy to use, adjustable, functional and aesthetically appealing.

After heading to our local Home Depot store, they walked us through a few options and we found just the solution for our big project. Without wasting anytime, let me share with you what we went with and why it was the perfect solution to organize our garage.

Wall Organization

What really caught our attention with this Rubbermaid, 15-piece FastTrack Multi-Purpose Kit organization system is the flexibility that it creates. Apart from the discrete black rail, all of the attachment accessories come off with one simple lever. It also has the stability of locking the accessory in place to prevent moving or falling. This means we can hang up brooms and extension cords, and they won’t fall when we come to remove them from their proper storage.

Cabinet System

It’s every garage owner’s dream to have built-in style cabinets to create a space in the garage that looks clean, tidy and organized. Among many choices that are out there, we went with the Rubbermaid, FastTrack Garage Laminate 7- piece Cabinet Set with shelving set because it was aesthetically appealing, just like we wanted. It’s black and laminate for ease of cleaning, and it too has the FastTrack attachment option if you choose to not to hang the cabinets the traditional way (into the wall) to have flexibility to re-arrange the configuration of the storage units.

Totes

The HDX Tough Totes from Home Depot were the perfect solution for the “I don’t need it right now, but I don’t want to throw it away” problem. The bins range in many different sizes, but we went with the smaller option and decided to get more of them for a couple of reasons. Number one: smaller bins fit perfectly on the FastTrack shelves. Number two: smaller bins encourage you to make quicker decisions so you don’t hoard things. The bins are tough, just like their description reminds you, but even better the lid locks snug onto the bin and has loops to attach locks (or even zip ties) to keep unwanted visitors from getting into your storage. The lid makes for a perfect and sturdy stacking tower. Lastly, I cant stand having five different styles of bins in my garage, so having the same black and yellow bins makes the space look cohesive, like an accent wall. This makes the space look good. Real good.

Chest Freezer

We went with the Frigidaire 14.8 cu.ft. chest freezer to give us more space for when we buy meat in bulk. Our kids are forever hungry and the refrigerator that is in our kitchen is a small side-by-side door refrigerator that fills up really quick with just a few items. The 14.8 cu.ft. was the perfect size. We can now buy 1/2 a cow from the butcher, and even have room for chicken or even pork on the sides. The freezer has a large storage chest space and 2 smaller bins that sit on top of the railing for quick and easy access to things that you need to get in and out fast.

Cleaning Products

We used Clorox ProResults for cleaning the driveway of all the mildew that accumulated over the last couple of months. This kept us from needing to go get a pressure washer. This quick cleaner is safe on metal as well.

We use the Clorox, Fresh Scent and Citrus Blend Disinfecting Wipes to clean almost every surface. From the chest freezer to the mud room section in the garage where the germ-carrying kids get dressed. This super quick solution keeps the areas squeaky clean.

The cabinets and even our counter tops get a good cleaning with the Formula 409. It’s fast-acting, streak free and does not contain ammonia or bleach. The lemon scent also makes everything smell fresh and clean.

When we want our surface areas to have the perfect shine, this is our go to. Windex takes care of almost all of our surfaces.

The perfect all around cleaner that you can refill. Whether it’s small jobs with a mix solution in a spray bottle or a large bucket that you’ll be using to mop the epoxy garage floors. The ZEP, 32 oz. All-Purpose Cleaner and Degreaser Concentrated will make up to 10 gallons of cleaning and de-greasing solution.

For all of the cleaning we’re actually doing, we don’t have designated cloth towels. Mostly because things get really messy and we don’t want to deal with what we find on the other side of the towel. This is where the HUGE Bounty, White Paper Towels 2-Ply (8 Huge Rolls) come in handy. They’re big, they’re tough, and they refuse to quit.

We’ve had trash cans that have cracked and that we’ve completely gave up on locking. Therefore having a tough can that will hold up to all of the home conditions, as well as cold and hot garage temps is a must. TheRubbermaid, Brute 32 Gal. Gray Round Vented Trash Can with Lid is reinforced in the base, so it’s ready to be dragged along the driveway as soon as spring cleaning is in full effect.

One of the reasons we went with this the Rubbermaid, Maximizer 24 in. Polypropylene Push Broom was its brush design. We have never seen something like this before. The side contours creates an opportunity to capture and push more debris like sawdust, leaves and grass. It cleans up more debris in less sweeps, which was what we really needed.

For the floors in the garage, we went with the Rust-oleum Epoxy Shield. We knew we wanted a modern color gray. The textured, black, white and blue flakes gave the floors a modern feel, while still being extremely durable.

Final Thoughts

From chaos to organization, The Home Depot had everything we needed to accomplish organize your garage. Thanks Home Depot for being our one stop shop for all of our spring cleaning needs.

Click here to shop the items you’ll need to get your all spring cleaning done like a pro at The Home Depot.

The post How to Organize Your Garage Like a Pro appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.

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How to Brighten Up a Room with a Fireplace Makeover

After Shelby Vanhoy of Pretty in the Pines bought a new home, she knew she wanted to redo the fireplace to match her style. By re-tiling the fireplace and adding shiplap above the mantle, Shelby was able to elongate the fireplace and make the entire room feel brighter.

Read on to see the steps Shelby took for this tile fireplace makeover!

How to Brighten Up a Room with a Tile Fireplace Makeover

When we first bought our house a few months ago, we knew one of the first things we wanted to do was a tile fireplace makeover! We weren’t big fans of the dark, black tile that not only surrounded the fireplace, but also the hearth, and I had always dreamed of having a bright white and marble fireplace with a farmhouse feel. We began brainstorming on how we wanted it to look and the project steadily grew in scope:

Replace black tile on fireplace wall and hearth with white and marble herringbone tile

Rebuild the hearth box and lay tile on the top only with a white wooden front

Rebuild the vertical columns to match the newly built hearth

Add shiplap going from the mantle up to the ceiling to elongate fireplace

Materials

When figuring out the exact tile fireplace makeover look that we wanted to create, we began listing out what we needed to get this project done. Here is what we ended up getting for our tile fireplace makeover:

Retiling

Crowbar

Rubber hammer

Pull Bar

Mortar

Grout – Cape Gray

(2) 5 x 3 ft. boards Hardie Board Cement Backer

(12) 1 x1 ft. white tiles sheet Herringbone tile

(8) 1 x 1 ft. Marble tiles sheet

7 in. Tile Wet Saw

~10 ft. of Floor Trim

Thin set mortar

Trowel

Grout Float

Tape Measure

Level

Hearth Box & Columns

(2) 4 ft. x 8 ft. sheets of ¼ in. Underlayment Plywood

Hardie Board Cement Backer

(5) 12-ft. strips Lattice Trim

Jigsaw

¾ in. Nails

Loctite

Hammer

Caulk

Behr – Ultra Pure White paint

Faux Shiplap Wall

¼ in. Underlayment Plywood

1 ¾ in. Nails

Table Saw

Base Moulding

Behr – Ultra White Paint

Step 1: Demo

The first thing we needed to do before the tile fireplace makeover was demo. This was probably the most fun, yet most nerve-racking part if you haven’t done it before. We did not want to damage any of the drywall around the mantle and columns, but you do have to be firm when prying off those pieces and the tile.

A crowbar and rubber hammer to dig out behind the columns and separate them from the wall. We decided to leave the mantle attached because it would not affect the demo and applying of the new tile.

Pro Tip: cut the caulk lines before trying to pry the columns and mantle away. You may even need to use a pull bar to help pry the columns and mantle.

Step 2: Remove the Tile

After removing the columns (and mantle, if necessary), it was time to get after the tile! Using the same method you used to pull the columns and mantle from the wall, use the crowbar and rubber hammer to separate the tile away from the mortar that was used to lay the tile. Once you get one up, the others are fairly easy to get under and separate from the surface to which they are adhered.

Be careful around the drywall, especially if the tile is mortared directly on top. We had a number of holes where the tile pulled off the drywall with it when it came off.

Carefully chisel away any remaining mortar so you are working with a clean and smooth surface for the new tile.

After the demo, you’ll want to clean up before moving on to the next step.

Discard the old tile and loose mortar pieces that broke off when removing. We just used a broom and vacuum to clean up the little pieces of drywall and mortar. Wipe down with a clean cloth before moving on.

Step 3: Lay the Base

After completing the demo, we began to work on the top where the tile would lay. We scored the Hardie Cement Board to the dimensions of the top of the hearth and applied the board using the thin-set mortar. Let the mortar dry for 24-36 hours before laying any tile.

When using the cement board, avoid creating a weak point by staggering the lines where the board meets. We did not have to worry about this as we only needed one large piece and one smaller piece.

You want to use the cement board instead of laying tile directly onto plywood because the cement board does not expand and contract as much as wood. This keeps the tile from being strained with those fluctuations.

Step 3: Build the Hearth

For us, the next step was to build the new hearth box. We knew we didn’t want a full tile hearth, so we had to build a new front and sides of the hearth using plywood and lattice trim. The hearth was built on a very stable plywood box and cement backer previously, so we cut and nailed in the new plywood to make the front and sides of the new hearth box.

Our hearth measured 70.5 in. x 18 in. x 10.5 in. We added lattice trim because we liked the look it provided as opposed to just the plywood. Then, we added shoe moulding at the bottom of the hearth as well. We used a jigsaw to cut the lattice into the right sizes and a table saw to cut the plywood. After the box was complete and sturdy, we closed up any gaps with white caulk.

Step 4: Prepare the vertical fireplace wall

While the mortar was drying on the hearth, we moved on to the vertical fireplace wall. Again, we used the Hardie cement board as a base to lay the tile. Then, we nailed the cement board into studs that lined the fireplace, lining up where the old tile used to be. We scored the cement board into 3 different pieces, one running horizontal and 2 vertical.

Step 5: Cut & prepare the tile

Measure the tile. Working with the herringbone tile was a little more difficult than laying squares or rectangles. We measured the spaces where they were going to lay, as the herringbone edges needed to line up and have consistent spacing.

We used a 7 in. wet saw for cutting the tile. For the hearth, we were able to use 6 ½ full tile sheets along with 6 ½ quarter sheets. To make the quarter sheets, we lined up where they would connect to full sheets and cut between the netting that was holding each tile together.

To make a polished look, we wanted the tile to be flat against any surface that it may come into contact. We trimmed the edges on some, and on others, we cut smaller triangular tiles that we would fit between any gaps. Once we had everything cut and laid out on the floor we began to lay the tile.

Step 6: Lay the tile

Lay the tile in small sections at a time. Scoop the mortar (we used pre-made mortar that came in a tub) and spread evenly to where one tile piece will be laid. Avoid spreading the mortar into larger areas as it may dry before you lay the tile. Firmly press tile into mortar.

Spread the mortar evenly across the cement backer, using the ribbed edge of the trowel to make indentions into the mortar. This helps with the tile sticking to the mortar. If working with herringbone tile, do not over-mortar as it will begin to rise between the spaces in the tiles. If this happens, use a rag to wipe away an excess.

For the vertical tile surrounding the actual fireplace, we began with individual tiles to make a border on the edge of the cement backer. We thought this would be a nice look and give us clean grout lines.

Once the all the tile has been laid, wipe down any excess with a clean cloth and let cure before adding grout. Wait 24-36 hours.

Step 7: Grout the tile

After the mortar has cured and is dry, begin to grout. We used Cape Gray as the color because it went well the white as well as the marble tile we were using. Mix the grout according to the box instructions, typically just adding the grout to water and mixing. We did not have a grout mixer, but a garden shovel did the job.

Once the grout is mixed, use a grout float to apply the grout at a 45° angle, ensuring you are spreading evenly between the herringbone tile. Then, once you are sure that it is spread evenly, wipe away excess using a 90° angle with the float. We tried to spread the grout with one end of the float and wipe away with the other end.

Let the grout dry for 10-15 minutes before taking a damp cloth or sponge and wiping the excess away. Wait an additional 2 hours before taking a cheesecloth or textured cloth to wipe the leftover film. Next, let the grout dry for 36-48 hours before standing or putting pressure on the tile.

Step 8: Work on the accents

Once the grout was finished curing, we moved on the columns and shiplap walls. We rebuilt the columns to make them more similar to the hearth. We used a base of plywood with foot moulding on the top and bottom. Then, we added the lattice trim down the sides for a coherent look. We used ¾ in. nails and Loctite to adhere all these pieces.

Once the pieces were dry and ready to be mounted, we used Loctite and nails to remount the columns under the mantle and along the vertical tile. We closed any gaps with caulk. Once the columns were securely in place, we used the same Behr – Ultra Pure White paint to match the hearth box.

Step 9: Add faux shiplap

This was the final step for us. The fireplace and hearth itself, was complete, but we wanted to tie the room together with something else. We chose to do faux shiplap as we had done this on a project previously.

We used a table saw to cut 5 ft. x 7.5 in. strips of underlayment plywood. When mounting the plywood, we used nickels to keep spacing consistent, and nailed the plywood into the studs along the drywall. We had to maneuver around a window, but we were able to cut the plywood as needed.

Once the shiplap boards were mounted, the last piece we needed was trim. We used ceiling trim at the top, and moulding trim along the sides. This tied together the trim that we used on the columns for a cohesive look. The last piece we did was painting, using the same Behr paint.

Final Reveal

Our originally dark fireplace resulted in a bright fresh and white more modern farmhouse looking fireplace and we are thrilled with it! We enjoyed giving this tile fireplace makeover and hope this tutorial was helpful! Replacing tile is a time-consuming process as there are a number of steps where you need to wait for adhesives to dry, but other aspects of the makeover helped us pass the time. Let us know what you think!

Shop tile backsplashes at The Home Depot. Check out other Fireplace Ideas on The Home Depot Blog to get inspiration for your tile fireplace makeover.

The post How to Brighten Up a Room with a Fireplace Makeover appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.

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Mix and Match Patio Furniture to Create Your Perfect Set

  Maybe your patio furniture needs a complete overhaul. Or, maybe it just needs a little tweaking. When you have the freedom to mix and match patio furniture, you can take what you love and leave what you don’t. Check out how you can create this outdoor oasis with mix and match patio furniture and tropical accents.

Mix and Match Patio Furniture to Create This Outdoor Oasis

The freedom to choose between different options of patio furniture not only allows you to custom create your own outdoor space and fit your style, but also to fit the amount of space you have. So no matter if you’re looking for a small setup for two on a balcony or a large dining table and chairs to accommodate the whole family and entertain friends, you can easily create a one-of-a-kind outdoor retreat. And with everything located under one convenient roof at The Home Depot, you can easily pick up decor and accessories to complete the look.

Add in Tropical Accents

Add string lights and lanterns to enhance the mood with lighting and keep the fun going long after the sun goes down.

And don’t forget tropical pillows to make your outdoor space feel like a true oasis no matter where you live.

Let your new outdoor sanctuary become an extension of your interior by adding a stylish outdoor rug.

Try adding in flowers and tropical plants, like ferns and palms, to tie the look together.

All mix and match patio furniture options are available in-store and online at The Home Depot. Free delivery is available for over 8,000 patio items that can be shipped to your home or picked up in-store. Check out other Patio Ideas on The Home Depot Blog. Follow along on our 2018 Patio Style Challenge to get more outdoor living ideas. Find more inspiration for your patio on our Outdoor Living Pinterest board. 

The post Mix and Match Patio Furniture to Create Your Perfect Set appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.

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Six Easy Farmhouse Kitchen Ideas

Staci Salazar, the blogger behind Our Family Lifestyle, wanted to add farmhouse style to her build grade home. With a little bit of planning, she was able to make a big impact.

Read on for six simple farmhouse kitchen ideas from Staci that will give your kitchen a fresh, new look.

Six Easy Farmhouse Kitchen Ideas

Before the Update

When my husband and I began to talk about building a home, we knew exactly what we wanted. We also knew that getting the look and style of “our ideal home” would require several DIY projects beyond the builder’s design, but were up for the challenge.

Through the design process we made choices that would get us as close as possible to our dream home. The kitchen, being the center-both figuratively and literally-of our home, is where we focused most of our attention. White shaker cabinets, grey countertops and a subway tile backsplash helped us achieve that bright, clean look we wanted. But it was still lacking.

The builder grade kitchen was beautiful, but to us, it needed something more. We wanted to add elements that would show our personality and style. We wanted to change our builder grade kitchen into a farmhouse-style kitchen. Through our partnership with The Home Depot, we were able to make that happen.

After much deliberation and planning, we came up with six easy farmhouse kitchen ideas for our builder grade kitchen that anyone can do.

Cabinet Knobs and Drawer Pulls

Logically, I think knobs and pulls simply make sense. Basically, they make both the cabinets and drawers easier to open. But, wow! Once we went through the space and began attaching the Liberty Flat Black Solid Round Cabinet Knobs and Tumbled Dark Gunmetal Davidson Cup Pulls, we were looking at a whole new kitchen. Even the kids agreed. It was the easiest way to begin the transformation.

Shiplap

Shiplap is one of the hottest trends right now and one that I love! Our oldest daughter actually suggested the idea in and we decided to do it. Using Radiata Pine Nickel Gap Shiplap made installation easy. Each piece of shiplap is already cut to leave a natural gap. No need to find nickels or rip pieces of plywood. A coat of white paint on the wood planks after install and the entire space felt so much brighter.

Faux Beams

During our build time, I kept looking at these large open entries between the kitchen and living area. I could not get my mind away from the idea of putting beams there. So, when the time came, it’s exactly what we did. We decided on faux beams because they would be easier to hang in addition to being less expensive.

Using only Pine Common Boards, we set out to create our faux beams. We distressed the wood using tools in our garage, made the 3-sided beams, then brushed on Minwax Early American Wood Finish. We hung them across two open areas using cleats on the ceiling and they look amazing!

Beadboard

We went back and forth on the idea of painting our island. I stared at it for a while and we came up with a solution that would help create some depth and style instead of painting. We took off the builder end panels and applied White True Bead Wainscot Paneling instead. Then, we trimmed it out using moulding and cut 1 x 3 boards to make that ever-popular farmhouse X. More white paint and we were onto our next project.

Wood Panel

Our builder’s deluxe kitchen package came with a great vent-a-hood cabinet, but, again, it needed more. We had talked previously about doing something to it but weren’t sure what. Taking note of the width of the area we wanted to restyle, we went to The Home Depot for inspiration. We decided to use ¼ in. underlayment since it was light and thin. Covering it with the same stain we used on the faux beams helped tie it all together beautifully. We made sure it fit snug and secure, applied the pieces with Liquid Nails in addition to 1 in. nails, then added a wreath for extra flair.

Paint

Perhaps the easiest way to change the look of any space is to simply paint. Don’t like it? Paint over it with another color. Well, I decided to go bold with our pantry door. We looked at several doors for months but couldn’t decide on one we both liked. Instead, I found a color that matched my small appliances and painted the door! The kids were unsure at first, but they get it now. It adds just the right pop of color and really helps liven up the kitchen.

Final Reveal

Utilizing the supplies and tools easily found at The Home Depot, we were able to turn our kitchen into one I have dreamed about for months. We’ve been able to sit and admire our work for a few days now and grow to love it more each day. These farmhouse kitchen ideas has let our kitchen truly become the heart of our home.

Now that I’ve seen what we’re capable of doing with a few tools from The Home Depot, I’ve got a whole new list of projects planned for the house!

Check out other Kitchen Ideas on The Home Depot Blog. Find more farmhouse kitchen ideas at The Home Depot.

The post Six Easy Farmhouse Kitchen Ideas appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.

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Kitchen Hardware Refresh

Kitchen Hardware Refresh

Updating your cabinet hardware can give your kitchen a complete refresh.

Oftentimes, cabinet knobs and pulls are the last thing you think about when styling your home decor.  Replacing your kitchen hardware is an easy way to freshen up the look of your kitchen and can be completed easily and inexpensively.

We asked three talented lifestyle bloggers to show how replacing old cabinet hardware can spruce up a kitchen. Here’s a quick round up of their projects, along with links to their blog posts and the products they used.

Classic Brass Cabinet Hardware

Chloe Mackintosh, of Boxwood Avenue, aimed for her kitchen hardware to be something brass, antique, and classic.  Chloe selected these pulls and knobs from the Martha Stewart Living Rustic collection, because she loved the antique finish and classic design. Check out her full blog post here and get tips on how to install your own kitchen hardware.

Classic Black Square Pulls

Avid DIYer, Corey Decker recently gave her kitchen a full remodel. The last thing missing was adding the finishing touches to her cabinets. Her vision for a bright and airy kitchen called for a pop of black accents, and that’s exactly what she found by choosing these Liberty Classic Square Pulls. Take a look at her full project and how she went about installing her new hardware on her blog Sawdust 2 Stitches.

Farmhouse Style Knobs and Pulls

Destiny Alfonso of Just Destiny Mag, wanted her kitchen cabinet hardware refresh to have a slight rustic feel, but still feel somewhat traditional and bright. She ended up choosing two different finishes from the Martha Stewart Living line to achieve a contrast look, bronze with copper highlights and polished nickel pulls. Head over to her full blog post to get her inspiration and step-by-step guide to achieve this look.

Complete your kitchen hardware refresh with the help of The Home Depot. For more inspiration and ideas, read more Kitchen Ideas and Inspiration posts on The Home Depot Blog.

The post Kitchen Hardware Refresh appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.

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Guide to a Complete Garage Makeover

The garage is often the most cluttered part of any house. Jane Ko of Taste of Koko was tired of having miscellaneous items pile up in her garage. After taking the time to clean and create an organized storage system, Jane brought her garage makeover dreams to life.

Check out these five simple steps that will help you transform your garage into the space that’s perfect for you.

Guide to a Complete Garage Makeover

Ever since I moved into my home in 2013, the garage immediately became the spot where miscellaneous items would go but never came back out. The garage became an eyesore every time I pulled in to park my car. Talk about embarrassing when my neighbors would walk by and peek in.

When the new year started, my goal to tackle the garage and have my first home project to be a garage makeover came to life. Purge, clean, and organize. I’m so excited to partner with The Home Depot on this garage makeover transformation!

Materials

BEHR Premium Plus Ultra Paint – Buzz In

BEHR White Flat Ceiling Interior Paint

Rubbermaid FastTrack Garage Hang Rail

Rubbermaid FastTrack Garage 1-Bike Vertical Bike Hook

Husky stack tote

Rubbermaid Laminate Storage Shelves in Black with Upright and Extension Kit

Rubbermaid FastTrack Garage Rail Accessory Starter Kit (7-Piece)

Prepac White Space-Saving Shoe Storage Cabinet

HDX storage tote in peacock

HDX storage tote in grey

Husky Shelf Steel Unit

HDX storage tote in candy apple

Sterilite Latching storage box

Before the Makeover

Here’s what my garage looked like beforehand. Piles and piles of products, boxes of product, old appliances, old furniture. It was a miracle that I could find anything.

Step 1: Purge & Clean

First, I went through everything and started throwing away broken or unusable items, and straight up trash. I took anything in good shape to the local donation center.

Step 2: Plan & Sketch

Making a blueprint of the garage was super helpful. I was able to visualize the space and make sure new shelving would fit. By measuring your walls and ceilings, you can then estimate how much paint you’ll need to buy too!

Step 3: Paint

The home builders didn’t bother painting the garage when I bought the home. I’ve always hated those white stripes. I knew I wanted to paint the garage with a pop of color, so I went to The Home Depot to pick up paint samples. Yellow stuck out to me—when was the last time you saw a yellow garage? I picked BEHR Paint in Buzz In for the walls and BEHR ceiling paint in white.

Make sure to use a primer. Otherwise, you’ll have to do several coats of paint.

Step 4: Installation

The Rubbermaid FastTrack system was my top choice because of the easy installation and customization.

I installed the Rubbermaid FastTrack Garage 84 in. Hang Rail. Then, I mounted the bikes on the wall with the Rubbermaid FastTrack Garage 1-Bike Vertical Bike Hook.

After cleaning up the space, I installed two Rubbermaid FastTrack Garage 84 in. Hang Rails. Then, I added the Rubbermaid 4-Shelf 48 in. x 16 in. Laminate Storage Shelves and Rubbermaid FastTrack Garage Rail Accessory Starter Kit to hang up items like the tennis rackets and pool floaty! Miscellaneous items are stored in the Husky stack totes.

Step 5: Organize

The shoe situation was a mess. I love the Prepac White Space-Saving Shoe Storage Cabinet that holds 35 pairs of shoes!

Then, I sorted everything into different storage bins and then labeled them.

Final Reveal

And that’s how I transformed my garage from this…

Finally, to this! I’m so happy with the garage makeover—all the mess and clutter: gone. Now, every time I come home and open up the garage it’s like a giant burst of happiness from the yellow!

Complete the garage makeover of your dreams with the help of The Home Depot. Find more Storage and Organization ideas at The Home Depot Blog.

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How To Install a Simple Butcher Block Counter

Janel Hutton of Nellie Bellie took her sad kitchen and turned it into a bright and beautiful room by adding butcher block countertops! This simple DIY project changed the entire look of the room.

Read on to see Janel’s step-by-step instructions on how to install butcher block countertops!

How To Easily Install Butcher Block Countertops

Materials

Birch Butcher Block Countertops

Measuring tape

Straight edge

Circular saw with 7¼ in. with 60 teeth blade

Masking tape

Jigsaw

Cordless drill

Sander

Wood screws (#6 11/2)

Pre-stain conditioner

Wood stain

Butcher block conditioner

Before the Update

Butcher block countertops are an inexpensive and relatively simple DIY solution for those of you that are tackling kitchen updates, like we are.

Choosing Butcher Block

We chose to install butcher block countertops because we love how they look, we love that they are simple for a DIY’er to install, and that their price tag is very reasonable. They helped us take our kitchen from a sad room to a bright and beautiful room that we look forward to walking into each day.

Installing a butcher block countertop isn’t difficult, but does require a circular saw and jigsaw. The simplest method, which we did, lines up the countertop in an L shape rather than using an angled corner (much more difficult!).

If you, like us, are fairly basic in your DIY knowledge, stick with the simple L shaped corner and try not to get too fancy.

And give yourself plenty of time.

Tip: Choose the simplest, most straight-forward counter to start with. You’ll feel more confident as you move forward as well as have a better handle on any quirks. (code: don’t start on any sink cut-outs first)

Step 1: Measure for the needed material

And then measure again. Be sure! Order your countertops several weeks prior to needing them to allow for delivery.

Note: There are several kinds of butcher block countertop materials available. We used birch with a walnut stain. Do your research prior to ordering to determine which material you would prefer.

Step 2: Remove existing countertops

We chose to remove part of the room, do the butcher block, and then move on. This meant we could keep the sink in operation for as long as possible. A good solution for a kitchen remodel that still needs to function.

Step 3: Remove any leftover adhesive

To make sure your butcher block countertop is level you will need to remove any remaining adhesive. Perhaps it will come off easily. Or, like in our case, you will need a bit of extra help to get it off. We used our angle grinder with a conversion kit (to use it as a sander) and coarse grit paper. This went really fast and we had to be careful!

At this time, it is also wise to drill your pilot holes for securing the counter with wood screws if you are choosing that method. Remember to drill your holes a bit smaller than the screws to give the screw wood to grab on to.

Step 4: Measure your first counter

And then again. Measure far more times than you think you need to. If you can, check your measurements against the previous countertops that you removed. Alternately, use plywood or cardboard to create a dry run of your countertop cut. Be sure, when measuring, that you include any overhang that you may want on the end of your counter.

Tip: If possible, have 2 people independently measure every cut and make sure each arrive at the same measurement before moving forward.

Step 5: Make your first cut and drylay

Use a circular saw with a 7¼ in. 60 teeth blade to make your first cut. Be sure to use a straight edge to help guide the blade. Keep the cut slow and steady. Lay your countertop out and double check for accuracy.

Repeat this step as needed to finish each section of countertop.

Tip: Apply masking tape along the entire line where the cut will be to keep the wood from splintering.

Step 6: Secure Countertops

When you have completed cutting all of your sections (instructions above addresses any sink cuts) push pieces tightly together as best you can and secure into place. We chose to use wood screws (#6 11/2 in.) that are screwed into the butcherblock from underneath the countertop using the holes we previously started.

Step 7: Cut the Sink

Use the above steps to cut the butcher block section to fit into the sink countertop area. Set it atop the counter, align, and secure into place as instructed.

If your sink came with a template, utilize that to mark where your cut should be. If your sink did not come with a template it would be wise to use a piece of cardboard or large paper to create your own.

After your cut has been drawn out, properly marked, and double-checked…drill a pilot hole with a large drill bit to get the jigsaw started with.

Carefully use the jigsaw to make your sink cut.

Drop in your sink to test, adjust the cut if needed. Finish according to your sink directions.

Tip: This cut will take a bit of time…be patient!

Step 8: Finish the Counter

Apply pre-stain conditioner if you are staining. After about 20 minutes, apply your stain according to directions. Once you’ve allowed for proper drying time, apply butcher block conditioner according to directions.

To care for your counter, be sure to wipe liquid off countertops quickly after spilled, keep dry, as best as possible, use trivets or pot holders, and apply additional conditioner, as needed, to keep the countertops looking beautiful.

Final Reveal

We are so incredibly pleased with how beautiful these countertops are in our kitchen. The best part is that we were able to install butcher block countertops in a weekend (complete with sink and faucet) and they look amazing!

Get other kitchen ideas and inspiration on The Home Depot Blog. Install butcher block countertops to get your own updated look. Follow our Kitchen Ideas and Inspiration board on Pinterest.

The post How To Install a Simple Butcher Block Counter appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.

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Create a Custom Statement Wall

We all know statement walls can transform any room. Mandi Gubler, of Vintage Revivals, shares her tips for mixing wallpaper, wood and paint to create a one-of-a-kind design. Keep reading to learn more about this unique custom statement wall!

Create a Custom Statement Wall

I’m a huge fan of statement walls, they’re kind of my love language (if I love you, you get a statement wall…Oprah style.) When you’re embracing the statement wall, paint is usually the go-to medium, it’s easy to use, you can always cover it up if your results fall short of your glorious vision, and it’s inexpensive.

But guys, I’m about to change your mind a little, because wallpaper is here and its here to stay.

Find Your Inspiration

The inspiration behind my daughter’s room is Disney’s It’s a Small World (specifically the one at Disneyland cause I just can’t quit that white and gold exterior.) For four years I’ve been itching to do this room and I’m so happy to finally see the vision come to life!

For this statement wall, I used some paint, wood, and wallpaper to create the design. Mixing wallpaper with other materials and patterns is easy, you just need the right kind. I painted the buildings white and then filled some in with this gold speckled removable wallpaper.

I’m loving how reflective this wallpaper is!

HomeDepot.com has a huge wallpaper selection. It was really hard for me to narrow it down because I wanted to use all of them!

Ultimately I went with the Splatter pattern from Bobby Berk because it reminded me of the texture that is on the exterior from Disney’s It’s a Small World. I am so happy with how it turned out!

Here’s what you need to know about wallpaper on HomeDepot.com. First and most importantly the patterns that they have available are killer. They’re extremely on trend and have designers like Bobby Berk, Genevive Gorder, and a little lady by the name of Joanna Gaines. You may have heard of her.

Temporary wallpaper is the best of both worlds. You get the bold and statement-making patterns that can only come from wallpaper, and it’s extremely easy to remove, damage free, from your walls. It’s also great for novice wallpaper DIYers because it’s re-positionable.

Mixing Wallpaper Patterns

Mixing materials is just one way to use wallpaper, you can also mix different wallpaper patterns!

Here are my tips:

Unless you have a way to physically separate the wallpapers from each other, use natural space divisions as your guide. For example, use one type of paper on the walls in a bedroom and a second pattern in a closet. Or use one in your entryway and another in your living room, as long as the walls aren’t connected, you’re good!

Find papers that have a similar vibe. The peonies, splatter and thermoscad wallpaper patterns are all white and gold and will work together perfectly.

Wallpaper can be a little intimidating if you’ve never used it before. If you’re interested in dipping your toes in the water, try using it in smaller space like a half bath.

Don’t be afraid to go bold. One of the reasons that wallpaper is so magical is because it makes a massive statement. This is why using removable paper is so great because you’re not married to it forever! I love something bold like this Shatter geometric print. Or colorful like this mustard yellow geo print!

To get more info on Vintage Revivals room makeover and all of the furniture details (yes, they’re all from Home Depot!) check out Vintage Revivals here! Find more bedroom inspiration on The Home Depot Blog.

The post Create a Custom Statement Wall appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.

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The Ultimate DIY Teepee for Kids

Ashley Thurman, of Cherished Bliss, wanted to complete her son’s room by adding a fun element, and this DIY teepee was the perfect addition.

Follow Ashley’s step-by-step tutorial to build your own!

The Ultimate DIY Teepee for Kids

This year is about finishing our house! We bought this house late fall of 2016 and it was just about as builder grade as you can get. Over the last year we’ve slowly been trying to bring our style into each space of our home. Today I’m here to show you a fun element we’ve added to my youngest boy’s new bedroom – A DIY Teepee.

I went back and forth trying to decide if I wanted to do a no-sew version of this tee pee, or if I wanted to actually sew it. I haven’t sewed in years so it was pretty difficult to sway me, but we are in fact going to be sewing today! If you’ve never sewn before, don’t worry this project isn’t all about precision. The only thing you need to know how to do is follow a straight line!

Let’s get started!

Materials

6 ft. x 9 ft. Drop Cloth

Scissors

Straight Edge (I used a 1 x 2 I had on hand)

Tape Measure

Sewing Machine and necessary accessories

Thread

(3) ¾ in. x 10 ft. PVC Pipe cut to 5 ft. sections

Hack Saw

Iron

I suggest waiting until you have sewn together your teepee before cutting the pipe just in case you should have any slight discrepancies in the length of the pockets for your PVC pipe. This tee pee was designed to be slightly smaller than a typical tee pee so it can be enjoyed in smaller bedrooms. You can always adjust the size if needed.

Use a ½-in. seam allowance unless otherwise stated.

Before you Start

Prewash the drop cloth to give it a softer feel. I washed mine on the longest, hottest setting with an extra rinse cycle using 1 cup of bleach. Then tumble dry on the highest heat setting.

Step 1: Cut Fabric

Let’s begin by cutting the fabric. You will need six “triangle panels,” five of the panels will be identical, and the last one will be used as the entrance to the teepee. You can cut one triangle panel out of the drop cloth with the bottom edge lined up on the hemmed side, and then use it as a pattern for the other four. See the diagram below on how to cut all panels.

Step 2: Sew the “Door” Panel

Assemble the door panel following the diagram above. The two flaps will overlap.

Press the interior raw edge of the two panels (the straight edge) so you have a finished edge on the opening. Then lay the two flaps side by side and overlapping following the diagram below, and stitch a straight line across the top. Make sure the top of the two flaps now equals the bottom of the top section.

Place the bottom portion (the two you just sewed together) and the top portion with right sides together and stitch across the top following the diagram below.

Once done it should look like this.

This should leave you with a panel the same size as the other five, but with an open seam in the middle (the entrance to the teepee).

Step 3: Assemble Panels

Begin sewing the panels, right sides together, by lining up the edges and sewing a straight line to join them (be sure to backstitch the ends for added strength). I highly suggest starting at the bottom and sewing towards the top. We will eventually be trimming the top, so it’s more important the bottom lines up. Continue until you have all five of the full-sized panels assembled.

Once that is done, attach the door panel on both sides. Make sure you are still sewing right sides together. This should give you a cone shaped tube. Now can turn everything right side out.

Step 4: Create Pockets for PVC Pipe

Next, we are going to create the pockets for the PVC Pipe by sewing a tube. Your tee pee needs to be turned right side out for this step. Once that is done, take each seam and press it with the wrongs sides together with the seam on the edge. Measure out 1 in. and stitch a straight line all the way up the tent. Again, make sure you start at the bottom and work your way up. This is essentially creating a pocket for the pole to go in, with your raw edges inside the pocket.

Once you get towards the top of the tent you will notice that the “pockets” we are making will start to cross each other, that’s ok! You haven’t messed up, I promise! Just keep going until you do this for all six seams.

Step 5: Trim Excess Fabric

Once you are done sewing the pockets you will be left with extra fabric at the top of your tee pee. To figure out how much to remove, I inserted my PVC pipe into the pockets as far as possible while making sure they were all even at the top. Then I cut the excess off.

Step 6: Cut and Insert PVC Pipes

Measure the length of the tube where the PVC Pipe will be inserted and cut your pipe to that length. Once all pieces are cut, insert each pipe into the pockets, making sure all pipes are cut to the same length even if the fabric varies slightly.

Mine ended up being around 48 in.

Step 7: Spread the poles out and allow the top ends to fan out

After all your pipes have been inserted, it’s time to set it up. Just start spreading out the poles until your teepee is fully stretched out.

Optional: If you would like to be able to tie the door flaps back, cut a simple slit in the drop cloth and use leather string to tie the fabric open.

I also decided to stencil a few letters numbers on our teepee for a slightly aged/industrial look. This is totally optional, and obviously can be customized to whatever you like.

And that is how to build this fun little DIY teepee! All that’s left is to let your little ones enjoy it!

Shop materials to make your own DIY teepee for your little ones at The Home Depot. Get more inspiration for your child’s room and find nursery ideas on The Home Depot Blog. Follow our Nursery Ideas board on Pinterest, too.

The post The Ultimate DIY Teepee for Kids appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.

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Creating a Cozy Kid’s Reading Nook

This cozy bedroom kid’sreading nook was created by Charlotte Smith of At Charlotte’s House.

Using supplies from The Home Depot, Charlotte built the perfect place for her kids to play games or read. Check out Charlotte’s full tutorial on creating the best reading nook for kids ever!

Creating a Cozy Reading Nook for Kids

The one thing that my kids like more than anything is a little nook in which they can curl up and play games or read. In the past this meant draping blankets over chairs and tables, but now they have their own permanent kid’s reading nook that’s handmade using supplies from The Home Depot!

Materials

(5) pine 1 x 3 boards, 8 ft.

(2) underlayment, 48 in. x 48 in.

(1) ¾ in. plywood, 4 ft. x 8 ft.

1 ¼ #8 Trim Head Screws (2 100-nail boxes)

Kreg pocket screw system

Jigsaw

Drill

Sander 43-in. piece of scrap wood (for compass)

Cut List

1 x 3 pine

(4) 42-in.

(4) 41 ¼-in.

(6) 12-in.

(3) 12 ½-in.

¾-in. plywood

(4) 4 in. arcs at 42-in. diameter

48 x 48 Birch Underlayment

(18) 4-inch strips

Our kid’s reading nook is 42 in. high, 42 in. deep and 48 in. wide. I used basic pine 1 x 3 boards, 1 sheet of ¾-in. plywood and 2 sheets of 48 x 48 underlayment.

Step 1: Cut the plywood “ribs”

In order to draw a perfect quarter circle, I made a quick compass using a scrap piece of 1 x 2. I drilled a small hole for a nail at one end and two larger holes for a pencil 38 in. down the board and 42 in. down the board. I lightly nailed the board in place, and then drew my arc with the pencil.

Using a jigsaw, I slowly cut out four arcs from my sheet of wood.

Step 2: Create right angle supports for each arc

Use pocket holes to screw one 41 ¼-in. board into the 42-in. board at a 90 degree angle. Use pocket holes to screw each end of this corner angle into the quarter circle plywood arc. Make sure that pocket holes are on the underside and backside of the corner angle.

Step 3: Cut underlayment into strips

Use a table saw or circular saw with a straight edge guide to cut the underlayment into 18 4-in. strips.

Lightly sand the edges of all your wood.

Step 4: Cut support braces

Cut 12-in. and 12 ½-in. support braces from 1 x 3s. Drill pocket holes into either end of each support piece.

Step 5: Assemble the nook

This nook is big enough that it needs to be assembled on site. I started by connecting two of the arcs with the 12-in. 1 x 3s.  Repeat with the remaining two arcs.

With everything lined up, I connected the two arc pieces with the three 12 ½-in. boards. I had to stagger these middle pieces slightly in order to screw into the pine boards and not the plywood arcs.

Step 6: Add the underlayment roof

Starting at the top corner, I lined up the first strip of underlayment with the edge. I used a 3/8-in. bit to predrill two holes along each plywood rib. I finished by screwing the board in place with the 1 ¼-in. trim head screws (these typically come with the necessary star bit). Repeat, working your way down the arc until the entire nook is covered with underlayment strips.

Step 7: Lights

I added two LED puck lights to the inside of the nook as well as a fun color-changing rope light. Because both are LED, I don’t worry about the lights heating up and, needless to say, the kids love the effect of the changing rainbow lights! I used copper tubing clips to hold the rope light in place.

Final Reveal

I chose underlayment because it had such a lovely wood grain and I wanted to leave it unfinished, but there’s no reason that the surface of this nook couldn’t be painted or stained as desired. The fox print hanging above it has the perfect colors to coordinate with both the wooden nook and the rest of the décor!

My kids all love to curl up in this nook and it’s been the first place they head each afternoon after school. They can easily sit inside the nook leaning up against the wall with feet outstretched. I layered shaggy rugs so the inside is soft and comfortable for them.

The addition of those neutral patterned curtains also adds to the cozy inviting feeling of the space. Lots of texture and pattern to help the sleek wooden form stand out!

Filled with throw pillows (also here, here and here), cozy blankets and their favorite books in a graphic new book bin, this little hideaway is perfect for the whole gang. I added a pair of poufs for some extra perches so everyone can get comfortable.

Create a DIY reading nook for kids with materials at The Home Depot. Find other ideas and inspiration for your children’s room and play spaces on The Home Depot Blog. Follow our Nursery Ideas board on Pinterest.

The post Creating a Cozy Kid’s Reading Nook appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.

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How to Design a Modern Farmhouse Gallery Wall and Living Room

This living room refresh has a modern, but French farmhouse vibe that’s cozy and inviting.

Sandra Downie of The Rustic Life used a mixture of modern and vintage pieces to make the space come together. Read on to see how Sandra balanced the look with her modern farmhouse gallery wall.

How to Design a Modern Farmhouse Gallery Wall & Living Room

Hi loves, as I’ve shared with you a few times already this year over on my Instagram page, simplifying my decor is a priority for me in 2018. I stepped back late last year and decided what goals I wanted to achieve in regards to how I lived. From my health and wellness to how I decorated my home.

The wall behind my sofa in the living room has always felt incomplete to me. I had a very pretty shelf up there that I really loved, but it didn’t feel like a cohesive space. Once I redecorated my sunroom in a modern farmhouse style, I fell in love with the modern vibe that black added to the room. That’s when, deep down, I knew simplifying and modernizing my home a bit more was something I wanted to take baby steps towards. I turned to The Home Depot and set out to start making steps towards those goals.

If you are choosing to design a modern farmhouse gallery wall, there are some things you will want to incorporate to pull this look together the way I did.

Incorporate Black Frames

Adding the color black to any home instantly adds a modern feel to a space. I chose to add black in the form of framed art. What I love most about these framed pieces of wall art: although they are modern, the print themselves say farmhouse. The Farmer’s Market printed wall art is simple and elegant. The photo of the Grange Blanche barn wall art takes you back to the farm and visions of a more relaxed farmhouse life.

Because there was so much black on the farmhouse gallery wall, I also wanted to add more black into the dining room. I brought in this black gate wall art door. Not only does it incorporate black, I love the french country look of the door as well. It fits beautifully with some of the French inspired decor I already have. It was the perfect compliment to the empty wall next to the TV.

Use Various Textures

I accomplished this with the metal arrows wall sculptures. I love that they are lightweight but they add visual appeal, texture and warm tones to the space without being over powering.

Integrate Visuals That Feel Old/Vintage

Something you would perhaps pull out of a barn or an old farmhouse. What I added to the wall was an old window frame that I had, but used in another way.

I re-purposed it to fill the space with a larger sized item but also thought it would make a nice layering piece with the Life is Like a Camera wall art. I like how it feels like the art is floating on the window, adding visual interest.

The selection of art wall decor that The Home Depot stocks is very impressive. It was really hard choosing exactly what to pick, but I must say there is something for every style and every budget.

Incorporate a Rustic Piece

Since I was making small updates to add a more modern feel to our home, I swapped out the ottoman for this refined rustic angle iron barnwood storage coffee table. I love the color and grain of the wood and the simple clean lines of the frame.

The black metal frame is very sturdy (trust me, my hubby stood on it to hang the chandelier and he is 6 ft. 5 in.). The quality and finish on both the wood and metal is beautiful and elegant. The photos don’t give it justice.

Add Modern Elements

To add more modern elements to the dining room, I added two bacall natural cream cotton blend high back dining chairs to both ends of the table. Before, there was one chair on one side on the dining table which left the room feeling unbalanced to me.

By adding these chairs with clean lines to my farmhouse table, a modern farmhouse look was instantly achieved. What I love best about my new chairs is the quality and softness of the cotton fabric and that the fabric is removal in case you have to clean it.

The chair is well built and comes assembled in one piece. You will find these to be a classic and timeless addition to  your home that can be enjoyed for years to come.

My home has typically been decorated in a French farmhouse style. But, I really love the way adding the farmhouse gallery wall and other modern pieces from The Home Depot have created a modern farmhouse feel to my home easily and affordably.

Find decor pieces from The Home Depot to create your own farmhouse gallery wall and living room. Find more inspiration for your farmhouse living room on The Home Depot Blog. Follow our Living Room Ideas board on Pinterest for more inspiration.

The post How to Design a Modern Farmhouse Gallery Wall and Living Room appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.

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Master Bathroom Makeover

A master bath makeover may seem overwhelming—from choosing the tile to selecting the vanity there is a lot to consider. Fashion blogger Lauren Lefevre of Edit by Lauren chose to mix neutrals creating the perfect backdrop to make her colorful accessories pop!

Master Bath Makeover

When my husband and I purchased our house shortly after we were married over ten years ago, I was thrilled by our fairly spacious bathroom but loathed the dark tiling and cabinets. I dreamed of one day turning this space into a relaxing, light and bright bathroom!

This remodel was put off over the years due to babies, a temporary move to Texas and prioritizing other home projects…but this year, I was finally able to make this master bath makeover dream a reality!

I knew I wanted a light, bright and clean-looking space, but also wanted to be sure to choose practical materials that will withstand the daily life of a family of four, who often all congregate in the master bathroom!

Here’s how I selected some of the most important elements of the bathroom: the vanity and counters, floor tile and shower tile.

Choosing a Vanity

The first element I chose for our bathroom remodel was a new vanity. We had built-in-cabinets previously. I love the look of a free-standing vanity, so I was pleasantly surprised to find that The Home Depot had many gorgeous vanity options that were more cost-effective than replacing the old countertops and refinishing/painting the old cabinetry.

The Wyndham Collection Sheffield Double Vanity with Marble Vanity Top in Carrara was our top choice. I love the clean, modern lines of this piece, the square sinks and the white/gray marble.

The multiple drawers and storage are an added bonus! Most importantly, I let the marble set the tone for the tile selections for the rest of the bathroom, taking me in a white and gray color scheme.

Choosing Floor Tile

I always thought I would choose white floors when I remodeled my bathroom. But, when it came to down to selecting flooring, I started to rethink white!

Since our entire family use our master bathroom, I entertained other options. I am so glad I did! I decided on MARAZZI Montagna Dapple Gray floor tile to give the bathroom a warm and cozy feeling.

It’s also more forgiving and livable than all white! I had the tile laid in a herringbone pattern to give it some extra sophistication. This floor is my favorite part of the bathroom! I couldn’t be more thrilled with how the floor adds texture and variation to the entire space.

Choosing Shower Tile & Backsplash Tile

I’ve always loved the look of a classic white subway tile. Choosing the primary shower tile was an easy decision.

I selected a light gray grout to incorporate continuity with the gray flooring. Since I love mixing patterns and didn’t want the shower to be all linear, I selected a hexagon tile for the shower floor as well as for the back of the shower boxes.

I am so happy with the way it turned out, and how the shower coordinates with the rest of the bathroom.

I love my bathroom! It’s exceeded my expectations and it’s been so fun to see these different elements and textures all come together so beautifully! I love how this neutral palette lends itself to any and all color schemes for accessorizing.

Our bathroom is both pretty and practical, comfortable and classic, cozy and chic… and a room we will enjoy for years to come.

Find more Bath Ideas on The Home Depot Blog. Start your master bath makeover with help from The Home Depot. Follow our Bath Ideas board on Pinterest for more inspiration.

The post Master Bathroom Makeover appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.

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Stylish and Customizable Kitchen Makeover

Sarah Dorsey of Sarah M Dorsey Designs planned the kitchen makeover of her dreams with the help of The Home Depot and its kitchen designer services. Read on to find out how she got her dream kitchen.

Stylish Kitchen Makeover with Help from a Kitchen Designer

After years in several rentals, we’ve seen our share of bad kitchens. When it came time for a kitchen makeover in our first home, we knew exactly what we wanted—and more importantly—what we didn’t want!

One of the things that we loved most about our house when we purchased it three years ago was how open the main living space was, with the exception of the kitchen. We knew that it had potential. With a new space plan, brighter finishes, and improved cabinets and appliances, our kitchen went from cramped and dysfunctional to a room that flows with the rest of our house.

It was so easy working with The Home Depot kitchen designer to bring our exact vision to life! Come on inside to see how it came together!

Before

First, here’s a before. The space was dark and cramped for one person (let alone multiple people). Narrow walkways, an awkward corner sink that was hard to reach, a tiny island, angled tile transition and cramped corner cabinets made the space feel claustrophobic.

After meeting with the kitchen designer at The Home Depot, we were able to go over the issues with our space and find solutions with Kraftmaid cabinets.

Custom Flooring

Since we had hardwood everywhere in the main living space except in the kitchen, we wanted to remove the tile and run the hardwood into the kitchen for continuity and flow. We installed unfinished hardwood in the kitchen and then the floors were sanded and refinished.

In-Progress Cabinets

After planning and working through the plumbing, electrical and floors, WOW did it come together in just a few days after the cabinets were installed!

Kitchen Makeover Final Reveal

We also demoed the right corner wall to open the space up and accommodate a large center island. I love how open it feels now! The island is probably my favorite part of the space. We went from a tiny island that was essentially only large enough to accommodate the cooktop to a 6-ft. x 7-in. x 4-ft. x 4-in. countertop. Perfect for preparing food and for friends and family to gather before a meal.

We were able to get a custom cabinet look without the price by utilizing Kraftmaid cabinets in creative ways.

The floor to ceiling cabinets to the right of the refrigerator were created by stacking multiple cabinets to get just the right height. Adding a line of drawers breaks up the doors and adds storage for small flat items, like utensils. The simple flat moulding at the top provides room to get it perfect at the top.

Pro-tip: if you have uneven wood ceilings like we do, get a two-part moulding. It gives a little more flexibility to be adjusted as it’s installed.

Another way we utilized Kraftmaid cabinets was through the island. It’s composed of a 24-in. deep cabinet and a 12-in. deep cabinet with an end panel that matches the doors on each side to cover the seams of where the cabinets meet. Adding a 14-in. overhang and 3-in. square legs provides lots of storage and a place to eat!

One of my biggest complaints about our previous kitchen was the lack of smart storage. Having a place for everything prevents things from being piled on top of each other in cabinets and keeps clutter off of the countertop.

Cabinets

The large drawers to the right of the refrigerator have wooden dividers, which came installed from Kraftmaid. I used to have a deep drawer where utensils were tossed in. I donated extra utensils that were duplicates or not used. Now everything has a place and is easy to find!

The wood tiered drawer storage is perfect for small utensils. I love that it utilizes the entire height of the drawer by including two sections. The top slides back to reveal a second space below. Genius!

We also selected a spice drawer insert. I love that all the spices are within easy reach and easy to find. No more searching through cabinets trying to find the right spice!

Trash and recycling are also hidden within the cabinet, but within easy reach with a roll-out drawer.

Living in several rentals, we’ve used lots of different cabinets. These are by far the nicest cabinets that we’ve used. They are solid, with maple construction and dovetail joinery, have soft close drawers and doors, and a variety of accessories and options. We love them!

My number one must have in the space was large walkways. It makes working in the space much more functional. Multiple people (and two dogs!) can be in the space and not constantly bump into each other. If space allows, 42-in. wide is a good rule of thumb for walkways in kitchens.

Appliances

Throughout the space, we went with black stainless appliances from Samsung. I love the fresh take on stainless and how it contrasts with the bright white cabinets.

Countertops

For the countertops, we went with a marble look quartz, White Arabesque by Silestone. I love that we get the look of marble, but without the maintenance. It’s extremely durable, heat, stain, scratch, and impact resistant and never needs to be sealed!

The open shelving was a DIY—we used white oak that was cut to fit our space and hidden steel brackets. We’re able to keep it neat and tidy by eliminating dishes that we weren’t using and keeping everyday dishes within arms reach in stacks. I love the open feel and warmth that it adds to the space!

Lighting and Accessories

With our wood ceiling, we can’t easily use recessed lighting, so having a variety of lights was important. The large pendants light up the island, the sconces above the open shelving light the outer countertops. Under-shelf lighting creates a soft light that also lights the countertops.

And did I mention that all lighting, furniture and most of the accessories are available at The Home Depot! I’m obsessed with our space and how it came together. I used to dread being in our kitchen because it was dark and cramped. Now it’s my favorite room in the house!

Find out how a Home Depot’s kitchen designer can help with your kitchen makeover. Check out more kitchen makeover ideas on The Home Depot Blog.

The post Stylish and Customizable Kitchen Makeover appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.

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How To Cut Holiday Letters with a Jigsaw

Rachel Metz of  Living to DIY is known for breaking down DIY projects into simple steps that are easy to follow. Learn how she creates wooden pallet letters to decorate her home this holiday!

Holiday DIY JOY Pallet Letters Tutorial

I have seen pallet letters before but wanted to give these my own personal twist. I never had a reason or word inspiration to execute such a project until the Holiday’s arrived! I decided to create a calligraphy-inspired pallet word that spelled out “joy”!  Before heading into this, keep in mind that you can do any font and word that suits your space.

Just follow this step-by-step tutorial to create a beautiful pallet word.

Tools

Ryobi Drill

Ryobi Jigsaw

Ryobi Random Orbit Sander

Ryobi Reciprocating Saw

Pencil/Marker

Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System

Kreg Pocket Hole Screw Starter Kit

Clamps

Materials

Tape Measure

Wooden pallet

80 grit sandpaper

120 grit sandpaper

Wood glue

Incandescent Rope Light Kit

Step 1: Breakdown your pallet

I started breaking down my pallet by clamping it down to my workshop table and using my Ryobi Reciprocating Saw to detach the pieces but feel free to use another method if you prefer.

Step 2: Measure

I lined up the pallet wood how I liked it onto my table. I then measured it to know how big I needed to make the word I wanted.

Step 3: Pick your font

You could freehand this next step, but if you have a specific font that you like and not the best handwriting  (like me!) then go ahead and create a document that is the size of your pallet and print it out on your computer.

Cut out and tape your word together if you aren’t free handing it.

Step 4: Flip It

Flip over your pallet pieces since we will be working on the back.

Then flip the print out over so it is mirrored then place it onto your pallet pieces.

I traced around it first in pencil because I knew I wanted to make it thicker when I cut it.

I went back and traced around the guideline even larger in sharpie so I had a nice defined line.

Step 5: Measure

I marked guidelines for my Kreg where the pallet pieces needed to attach.

I measured and adjusted my drill bit to the thickness of my wood.

I did the same for the base of the Kreg.

Step 6: Drilling holes

Clamp your wood securely and position your Kreg appropriately with your markings. It does not have to be right on since again these are just guidelines.

Drill your holes!

Step 8: Use Wood Glue and Pocket Hole Screws

Once all my holes where drilled, I lined up and added a bit of wood glue where the pieces met …which isn’t necessary but thought it would add a bit of security.

I placed them together while the glue was wet and screwed in the appropriate size pocket hole screws.

Step 9: Cutout your Letters

I clamped it down to my table once it was all put together. I ensured I had enough space to go in with my Ryobi Jigsaw.

Tip: for the insets, I used a thicker drill bit to create a starting point that allowed me to go in with my Jigsaw from there.

Step 10: Sanding

Once that was cut out, I flipped it over and went in with my Ryobi Orbit Sander.

Step 11: Light it up

To take this design to the next step I added some incandescent rope light to the back of my sign to give it a glow.

I bought extra clips and screwed them in the flow of my word on the backside.

I also love that I can remove this LED rope and utilize it for other projects if needed! I’m thinking…a DIY “neon” sign? Ah!

Style it accordingly to your space! This year our mantle was black, white and natural elements with emphasis on lighting. This DIY pallet word added the perfect glow. The options to personalize this project are endless. Happy DIY’ing!

The post How To Cut Holiday Letters with a Jigsaw appeared first on The Home Depot Blog.

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Complete Kitchen Overhaul

Sara Davis, of Sincerely, Sara D., loves her home, but felt like her kitchen didn’t give her and her family enough room. By removing half a wall, updating her cabinets, and creating more counter space, Sara created a better flow.

Read on to see how Sara created this beautiful spacious kitchen.

Complete Kitchen Overhaul

Have you ever dreamed of creating the perfect space for the center of your home? I have, and with the help of The Home Depot, Christmas came early. I am so excited to share our newly remodeled kitchen!

My name is Sara, and I blog about my DIY home decor adventures at Sincerely, Sara D. This past summer, I presented my kitchen remodel project to The Home Depot’s Orange Tank at the annual Haven DIY Decor Blogger Conference. In what was an amazing surprise, I won! I was beyond thrilled to realize a blogger’s dream and partner with The Home Depot on this project!

Before the Remodel

Our old kitchen was not well designed, and someone was always banging into something or someone. The dishwasher opened too closely to the sink and the fridge was tiny and crammed in the corner. Our oven was a wreck and burned everything (we hadn’t had a good cookie since we moved in).

The driving force behind the remodel was a better layout. We love to host family, friends and our small group, and opening up the kitchen would make entertaining so much better. But to make it happen we needed to remove half a wall and install all new cabinets. Our older appliances needed updating, too, and suddenly the kitchen was going to be a huge renovation. When The Home Depot partnered with me on this project, we were able to create our dream kitchen!

Lighting, Counters & Appliances

The new space is perfect. We are no long crammed and the flow is so much better. Where you once felt trapped in the kitchen, the space is now open and functions perfectly.

For the lighting, we removed two canned lights and replaced another two canned lights with gorgeous pendant lights.

Keeping a bar top allows central seating where our kids love to hang out, but lowering the top to counter height means the island can accommodate more items when we host friends and family.

We selected quartz countertops, and they are gorgeous.

The only piece of the kitchen which is original to the home is the hood. I painted it to look like wood. We added a tiled backsplash and a gorgeous potfiller. We installed a matching faucet to the island sink in the same stunning champagne bronze finish as the potfiller.

The cabinet hardware pulls and runner in front of the island are also pretty finds from The Home Depot.

We selected all Samsung appliances for the space (mainly because we are obsessed with the Family Hub Refrigerator), and we love all of the appliances!

The Demo

The entire kitchen remodel took nine weeks from start to finish. We began demo in late September.

I remember walking around the space after demo was complete and wondering (in sheer panic) what we had done.

However, we took the project day by day and spent lots of nights and weekends slowly building the space back together.

I took care of most of the aesthetic things like paint, cabinet hardware, trim and tile.

My husband Steve did a lot of the behind-the-scenes things such as electrical and plumbing – something he had never attempted before.

It was definitely a journey – one with lots of ups and a few downs, too. However, we kept going and have a gorgeous kitchen that we can proudly say we built!

Final Reveal

We love our new space and have already begun entertaining for the holidays.

Thank you to The Home Depot for helping us build our dream kitchen – the center of our home. It is perfect for our family!

I documented the entire kitchen remodel and share our story piece by piece at http://ift.tt/1tddkSy. Come join me in my DIY adventures!

Complete your kitchen overhaul with the help of The Home Depot. For more inspiration and ideas, read more Kitchen Ideas and Inspiration posts on The Home Depot Blog.

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DIY Mid-Century Door Makeover

Sarah Wissinger, of The Surznick Common Room, loves her 1950s ranch, but she felt like some of the doors in her home were lacking her style. These budget-friendly options made a huge impact in her home and gave her doors a much needed makeover.

Read on to see how Sarah gave her door a mid-century makeover in five simple steps!

DIY Mid-Century Door Makeover

Last year my fiancé and I purchased our first home—a cute, little 1950s ranch in Pittsburgh! We love the house’s original three-square window front door, but the interior doors were certainly lacking our cool mid-century style. Instead, we had your basic wooden slab doors that happened to be in pretty rough shape after 65+ years of wear and tear.

During our recent makeover of the master bedroom, we decided that the door needed a major update in order to look as great as the rest of the room. We wanted the cool three-square design of our front door to carry throughout the rest of the house, so we DIYed our own mid-century inspired interior door makeover! Here’s how we did it!

Materials

Wood Glue

Moulding

Interior Slab Door

Tape

Paint

Primer

Paint Brush

Roller

Door Knob

Door Hardware

Tools

Miter Saw

Tape Measure

Square

Clamps

Step 1: Measure the Doorway

We measured our doorway to determine the size of the door we would need. We purchased a new wooden slab door from The Home Depot, but if you already have a slab door that’s in good shape, you could use that too! Luckily a new door is an inexpensive upgrade, so we were happy to swap out our old one for a fresh start.

To create the squares on the door, we needed low-profile moulding that we could attach to the door. We found this ¼ in. x ¾ in. pine screen moulding and purchased enough to make six 14-in. squares.

Step 2: Cut the Moulding

With the moulding purchased, it was time to start making cuts. When doing any type of woodworking, it’s not necessarily accuracy that matters—it’s repeatability. We set up a simple and temporary stop-block on a miter saw to ensure that all pieces cut would be 14 in. long. If we were to measure each piece individually, it would have been next to impossible to get a perfect square as a result. This way, even if the stop block wasn’t exactly 14 in. from the blade, every piece would be identical, so they would all fit!

To help prevent splintering the wood with the saw, we tightly taped each piece where the saw would make its cut. This ensures a nice clean edge, which is essential for trim work.

We used the miter saw with the stop-block to cut the pieces at a 45° angle. Always be sure to check your angle with a speed square.

Step 3: Glue the Moulding

After all the pieces were cut, it was time to glue. We first found the center of the door, and marked 7 in. out in all directions so that our middle square was exactly centered. From there, we found midpoints to the top and bottom of the door, marking where the remaining two squares would need to go.

Carefully using an adjustable T-square, we drew our lines, and glued the moulding directly to the door face. To do so, we applied wood glue directly to the back of the moulding pieces and spread the glue evenly with a finger. We carefully applied the pieces to the lines we drew, pressing down gently and cleaning up glue squeeze-out with a rag.

Since this trim is light and won’t need to bear any weight, simply taping the trim down tightly for a couple of hours is all the clamping that needs to be done. Finally, we lightly sanded down the connecting corners of all of the moulding pieces to ensure that all of the seams had a smooth transition and were ready for painting.

Step 4: Paint the Door

After all of the moulding was glued to each side of the door and lightly sanded, we added two coats of Kilz 2 Latex Primer, allowing ample drying time between each coat. We then added two coats of Behr Premium Plus Paint & Primer in Ultra Pure White, Semi-Gloss, again allowing enough drying time between each coat. We brushed on the first coat of primer, but to ensure a smooth finish, we rolled on the paint with a mini fabric roller.

Step 5: Install Hardware

Now that the new door has a fresh coat of white paint, it’s time to add some sleek new hardware to match. We decided to outfit the door with a new matte black doorknob and hinges to tie in to our brass and matte black light fixtures in the room.

We added the Schlage Bowery Privacy Lock Knob in matte black. It was super easy to install and looks great against the white door. We hung the door using new National Hardware matte black hinges, which coordinated great with the new door knob.

We love how this DIY Mid-Century inspired door makeover turned out and we can’t wait to repeat the process on all of the doors throughout our house. It’s a great budget-friendly door makeover that makes a huge impact in our home–we couldn’t be happier!

Shop paint, door knobs, interior doors and moulding to accomplish your own door makeover. Find more inspiration and ideas on our Doors & Windows board on Pinterest. Read more DIY Projects on The Home Depot blog.

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5 Steps to the Perfect Backyard

Ashley Basnight, of Handmade Haven, loves to entertain, but didn’t have a great backyard space to host people. Being the avid DIYer she is, Ashley built her own floating deck!

Read on to see how Ashley created a backyard oasis perfect for entertaining her guests and find out how to build a floating deck and DIY chevron privacy wall.

5 Steps to the Perfect Backyard: Build a Floating Deck with a DIY Chevron Privacy Wall

Everyone dreams of their own backyard oasis, so I was super excited to build a floating deck with a DIY chevron privacy wall! My backyard was pretty sad, and for a girl who loves to entertain, I knew this DIY floating deck would be the perfect project for me!

Let’s take a look at how my backyard looked before the deck. I think we can all agree that this project was a much-needed addition to my home.

If you’re wondering if you can build a floating deck yourself, you can! With no experience at all, I built this floating deck on my own and I’m loving the results.

Materials

Paver Base/Stone Dust

Deck Blocks

4 x 4 Pressure Treated Lumber

2 x 8 Pressure Treated Lumber

Joist Hangers

Landscape Fabric

Lanscape Fabric Staples

Galvenized Nails

3 in. Screws

1 x 6 Pressure Treated Lumber

2 x 4 Pressure Treated Lumber

1 board of 1 x 3 lumber

3 in. Galvenized Nails

1 1/2 in. Galvenized Nails

2 x 4 Connectors

Bolts

Solid Color Behr Waterproofing Stain and Sealer – Slate

Graco Magnum X5

Paint Brush

Painters Tape

Paint Strainer

2 Buckets

UltraShield Naturale Voyager Series Roman Antique Hollow Compositie Decking

NewTechWood UltraShield Plastic T Clip Hidden Fastener

Tools

Ryobi Hammer Drill

12 in. Sliding Dewalt Miter Saw

Dewalt Tape Measure

Ridigd Palm Nailer

Milwaukee Framing Hammer

Ryobi Pancake Air Compressor

Level

Husky Gloves

Safety Glasses

Hearing Protection

Dewalt Circular Saw

Respirator Mask

Shovel

Bessey Clamps

Step 1: Laying the Foundation

This first step was the most labor intensive step, laying the foundation. With the use of deck blocks and pavor base I laid five 2 x 8 pressure-treated lumber beams down and then connected them together with 4 x 4 posts and 2 x 8 joists using Simpson Strongtie connector brackets and galavenized nails. I used my ridgid palm nailer to secure the brackets and I must say, that palm nailer was a life saver; I couldn’t imagine hammering all those nails in with a hammer.

It is very important to be meticulous as possible on this step; any imperfections in the foundation will show through on your final product. Using a level, I made sure that every part of the foundation was level. My deck was a little more complicating due to it being on a slightly sloped backyard, but with time and patience I got everything level.

Click here for the in-depth blog post and video tutorial on how I laid the foundation.

Step 2: DIY Chevron Privacy Wall

I knew I wanted some kind of privacy wall for my floating deck because the fence just didn’t give me enough privacy. I am pancaked between two houses so this wall just gives a feel of a more intimate deck area.

First, I started by securing four 4 x 4 pressure treated post to the foundation of the deck using crown bolts. Once the posts were secure I used 1 x 6 pressure treated lumber to create the chevron privacy wall. I built it section be section and secured the 1 x 6 pressure treated lumber with 3 in. galvanized nails using my palm nailer.

Click here for the in-depth tutorial on how I built this chevron privacy wall.

Step 3: Laying the Deck Boards

I ended up going with New Tech Wood Composite Decking for the top because I really wanted my patio to feel like a getaway area and I’m glad I went with it. These composite decking boards really make the deck look like it was done by a professional (humble brag).

To secure the decking down I used UltraShield Plastic T Clip Hidden Fasteners. This made the process really simple and I really love that the t clips are hidden. No ugly screw heads on the top of the boards. I just screwed the fasteners into each joist and the boards slide right on the clips.

Step 4: Painting the Floating Deck

I was excited to get to this phase of the deck done because I knew it meant I was that much closer to finishing. I went back and forth on whether to stain or paint my deck and I finally decided to just take a risk and go for black. So glad I did! I used Behr Waterproofing Stain and Sealer Solid Color in the color slate. It’s called stain but the solid color is more of a paint. If you want more of a stain, you can get your color as a semi-transparent.

I applied the paint using the Graco Magnum X5 machine and man, oh man, did this baby perform. I sprayed in small sections and then went back over the paint with a brush. This sprayer definitely cut my spray time down in half and the cleanup didn’t take too long.

The final result was breath-taking.

Finishing the painting was such a fulfilling moment because I knew I had actually pulled it off.

Click here to see the in-depth blog post and video tutorial on how I painted my deck and laid the decking boards.

Step 5: Styling the Deck

The best and final part was styling the deck and enjoying all of the hard work.

Seating

With any backyard oasis, you need plenty of seating, so I knew I wanted a patio sectional that was both stylish and comfortable, so I went with this Beverly 5 –Piece Patio Sectional Seating Set. What sold me on this one was the fact that you can buy additional seats to make it as big as you want. I will definitely be buying some add ons in the near future.

To make the sectional pop I used some colorful pillows and added some contrast with these Wicker Lattice Outdoor Throw Pillows.

You can never have enough places to sit, especially on a 16 ft. x 21 ft. deck, so I got this ottoman pouf for extra seating. I love that you can just move it around anywhere. Makes the perfect deck addition and even better Home Depot has the matching Sand-Geo Throw pillows to tie it all together.

Floating Deck Extras

I absolutely love the wicker on Beverly Patio sectional and to really tie in the sectional I placed this Round Metal Garden Stool in Chalk beside it to serve as an outdoor end table.

Before I even started to build a floating deck I knew I wanted this Hampton Bay 11 ft. LED Offset Patio Umbrella. I am in love. It gives off so much shade for my new deck and gives the deck that cozy feel.

And speaking of cozy, I was happy to move my AZ Patio 38 in. Decorative Steel Fire Pit onto my deck for the upcoming winter months. This fire pit was surprisingly bigger than I had anticipated when I purchased it a while back but the perfect addition for my new deck.

Lighting

In order to enjoy my deck after dark I hung up some Solar Powered Black Nautical String Lights for some deck lighting. I love that these lights are solar so I don’t have to worry about plugging them in.

I was also excited to learn that the Hampton Bay 11-ft. LED Offset Patio Umbrella has solar LED lights. This umbrella lights up the night sky like no other and I love it. The first day I took it out of the box, with some direct sunlight, she was lit up that same night.

Even though the fire pit isn’t necessarily a light, cranking it up definitely brings some illumination to the deck and the warm feeling just ties it all in.

Overall this project was lots of fun, and after some sore muscles and some crazy events, I am happy to be able to say I successfully completed this floating deck! Now it’s time to go enjoy it!

Build a floating deck with materials at The Home Depot. Check out more Backyard Ideas on The Home Depot Blog and follow our Outdoor Living board on Pinterest for more inspiration.

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