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Paris Art History May Term Post #4: Reflecting on Religion in Paris

         While exploring the Marais neighborhood in search of vintage shops, my group stumbled upon the Parish Church of Saint-Paul of Saint-Louis (Read here for background on the church). Its imposing size and vibrant red door immediately captured our attention, drawing us inside. Once within its walls, we encountered a breathtaking soaring ceiling that showcased its power and magnificence. It was truly awe-inspiring to wander through the space and absorb the remnants of the Christian belief. Paintings, statues, and chandeliers adorned the cathedral, vividly depicting the tenets of faith. The interior of the church resembled many others we had encountered, sharing a common thread of opulence reflected in the lofty ceilings and gilded artifacts. In my personal opinion, I find the cathedrals in Paris to be captivating structures to investigate.

As part of my class, I had the privilege of attending Mass at Saint Eustache with my classmates. Although the service was conducted in French and I couldn't comprehend the words, it was a remarkable experience. Being a Protestant, it was fascinating to observe the rituals of a Catholic mass. Despite feeling somewhat out of place, I made an effort to participate in the singing and prayers, occasionally humming to compensate for my limited knowledge of French. The Mass truly seemed like a work of art, and I cherished witnessing the ceremonial processions and listening to the majestic organ music. This exposure to a different religious practice proved immensely valuable in fostering my understanding and appreciation for faiths beyond my own.

Being in a religiously diverse city was something I truly enjoyed. As a Christian from West Michigan, I was rarely, if ever, exposed to religious views different from mine. As part of my class, we received a guided tour of the Grande Mosquée de Paris (Click here for more information on the mosque). This being my first time seeing a mosque and being inside one, I was blown away by its beauty. Tucked inside was a gorgeous garden that reflected the Islamic view of an oasis following life on earth. Walking through the halls reminded me that other religions are valid and beautiful. I truly feel like being exposed to other faiths helps to grow in my own by challenging my own beliefs and traditions.

However, a substantial portion of the religious assortment in Paris can be attributed to its imperialistic origins. As I learned in my class, a wave of immigration occurred after the First World War to address the aftermath of the war, resulting in the influx of various faiths and backgrounds. While the presence of a mosque is commendable, it serves as a reminder that its establishment was primarily driven by the recruitment of workers from Algeria and other Muslim territories under French control. This partially accounts for the remarkable religious diversity that exists in the city of Paris.

In Paris, adherence to the principle of laicité is observed, which advocates for the separation of religion and the state, emphasizing secularism. Unlike the United States of America, one's religious background is considered a highly personal matter in France. The involvement of religious perspectives in government and public affairs is discouraged, but individuals retain the right to private religious beliefs. As I learned in our class, laicité emerged as a response to the conflicts with the Catholic Church in the late 19th century (Click here for history and purpose of laicité). To counterbalance the considerable influence of the clergy, measures were implemented to maintain a religiously impartial public sphere. Nonetheless, laicité poses challenges for individuals who wish to outwardly express their faith, such as through clothing and accessories (For more information on laicité and the surrounding debates, click here). A significant point of contention stemming from laicité is the ongoing debate on whether outward displays of faith, such as wearing hijabs, should be allowed. During my time in the city, I only encountered a few individuals wearing head coverings. It struck me that religious expression was not a prevalent topic of discussion. While I believe that more time spent in the city would have provided further opportunities to explore religious identities, I sensed that the subject was treated with discretion.

Overall, I deeply value the development of my religious awareness. Prior to this journey, I held a clear lack of knowledge regarding France's approach to religion and its restrained outward expressions. Acquiring this understanding enables me to expand my learning and personal growth as both a Christian and a global citizen. Moreover, encountering diverse beliefs fosters an enhanced comprehension and appreciation for others. It also prompts me to reflect upon my own convictions. By challenging my faith, I am able to foster its growth and progress. (771 Words).

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Paris Art History May Term Post #3: Reflect on what you have learned about/ observed about Parisian lifestyles 

During my free time in Paris, amidst my classes and scheduled events, I had the delightful opportunity to explore the enchanting Jardin du Luxembourg, also known as the Luxembourg Garden (Click here for information on the garden). When I arrived at around 6 p.m., the garden was bustling with activity. A multitude of people gathered around the central pond, mesmerized by the breathtaking sight of fountains, statues, and vibrant blooms. The area seemed to attract individuals of all ages, with younger visitors strolling around and older ones finding solace on the benches. Being accompanied by my friends made the experience even more special, as we savored the opportunity to socialize in such a picturesque setting. The captivating view, coupled with our joyful laughter, heightened the overall ambiance. It was truly a lovely and soul-nourishing place to be, despite the occasional inconvenience of gusts of wind blowing sand into my eyes.

Reflecting on the eating, drinking, and socializing habits of the French people is an intriguing exercise. Overcoming a major cultural shock for me was adjusting to the timing of meals, particularly lunch and dinner. In my daily routine back in the United States, I typically have lunch between 11 am and noon, followed by dinner around 5 pm. However, in Paris, the culture surrounding meal times differs significantly. There are specific designated hours that are considered the norm (which can easily distinguish an unaware tourist). Specifically, lunch is usually enjoyed around noon, while dinner tends to take place between 8 pm and 10 pm. Moreover, the act of eating itself is seen as a leisurely and pleasurable experience. Meals are meant to be savored, not rushed through. It is common for Parisians to engage in multi-course dinners to extend the duration and truly relish each bite.

It is fascinating to observe the drinking culture in Paris as well. For Parisians, alcohol holds a significant place within their cultural traditions. However, unlike in the United States, where it is often consumed for its intoxicating effects, it is commonly enjoyed alongside a meal in Paris. It is expected and even considered customary to have a drink with one's meal, further enhancing the leisurely aspect of dining. Drinking alone is generally frowned upon and is a rarity among the residents of Paris. Personally, I found great pleasure in immersing myself in this cultural practice and savoring a glass of wine alongside my meals.

Observing the social lifestyles of the Parisian people was equally intriguing. What particularly caught my attention was their dedication to leisurely interactions with others. Gatherings were not hurried but rather genuinely savored. Furthermore, there appeared to be a profound sense of connection among the French populace, evident in their collective mindset. As I learned in my class, France offers a comprehensive social safety net encompassing universal healthcare, impressive provisions for maternity leave and childcare, and various financial protections in circumstances such as illness, old age, and unemployment. No individual is left exposed to social risks. I hold deep respect for this approach, and I can only hope for a similar commitment to one another within the United States. I am impressed by the Parisian’s view on employment. The culture in France fosters an environment that prioritizes and respects the well-being of working individuals, making it more conducive to achieving such goals. As we discussed in class, Parisians generally work no more than 35 hours per week. They also maintain proper boundaries between their professional and personal lives, and avoid interactions with colleagues outside of work hours. Additionally, they highly value designated lunch breaks, with no one opting to eat at their desk. The minimum wages are also set at a level that enables a comfortable standard of living, making it possible for the people of France to pursue stable employment and live comfortably. This approach is rooted in France's history and political landscape, as we learned in class. The focus on the welfare of the people emerged from the efforts of the Revolution when individuals fought to secure their rights that had been suppressed by the monarchy's power. Since that time, the people of France have consistently exhibited their dedication to upholding the entitlement to a life of comfort. It is evident that the legacy of this movement still resonates in the cultural fabric of French society today (Click here to learn more about Paris’ focus on healthy work-life balance). (731 Words).

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Paris Art History May Term: Final Exam Reflection

Group members: Skylar DeWitt, Rachel Douma, Lauren Carpenter, and Bryn Couturier 

Temple of Sibyl (19e)

As our first stop on our scavenger hunt final, this beautiful park and monument was a great way to start! At first glance, we were all stunned by the beauty of the temple sitting atop its rocky outlook. Upon further inspection, we discussed questions such as whether or not the rock formations were natural, and when the monument was made. After doing some research I was able to find out that the rock formations it sits on are actually man-made, and that the temple itself was designed and completed by the architect Gabriel Davioud in the late 19th century. Witnessing it today we were able to observe Parisians engaging in a multitude of Saturday leisure activities from walking their adorable dogs to exercising along the water’s edge. Even though the two walking bridges to access the island were closed, this was an amazing stop to relax and take in the nature-filled space that seemingly transports you away from the hustle and bustle of the city. 

Passerelle Richerand pedestrian bridge (10e)

When walking up to this cast iron walking bridge, we noted the beauty of the view of the canal from the top. Now decorated with an assortment of what could be argued as graffiti or street art, this bridge stands as a reminder of the canal itself. Build in the early 19th century by Napoleon I, this canal was one of the first planned waterways to bring drinking water to the city of Paris. Now still connected to the seine river through ports, this calm river is a popular spot for a shady river walk or view of the neighborhood. 

The foundation of the Bastille in the Bastille Metro Station (11e)

Upon stopping at the Bastille Metro Station, we found ourselves face-to-face with a moment of preserved history! History is not something I have found myself expecting to find when scanning my Navi-go and entering the Paris metro station, but this example of a memorable historic site changed my expectations entirely. Discovered during the expansion of line 5 on December 17th, 1906. As we saw in the Bastille station on line 5, it has since been marked off and preserved within the new Metro addition. Marked not only by its historic stone appearance and protective glass covering, the city of Paris has added plaques and information signs to help inform anyone from the daily passerby or visiting tourists of its history and importance. Having learned about the extensive, and at some points, destructive history of the Bastille, we all found it amazing to witness the original foundation and wonder about its distance below modern-day ground. 

https://www.travelfranceonline.com/bastille-metro-station-platforms-murals/#:~:text=Bastille%20Metro%20station%20was%20inaugurated,order%20to%20highlight%20its%20layout.

La Madeleine (8e)

Travelling to the 8th Arrondissement, we stopped at the Église de la Madeleine, or, La Madeleine. With construction beginning under King Louis XV, La Madeleine bears the traditional features of a Greek temple, like a frieze and a columned entrance, distinguishing itself from the surrounding Haussmann buildings. With 52 Corinthian-style columns lining the building and the frieze depicting the Last Judgement, overlooking the city, the Madeleine is best known for its sheer size and unique, neoclassical style. Today, the Madeleine still serves as a Catholic parish church, as was orignially intended, and is the focal point of Rue Royal; however, due to construction, we were unable to get a full view of the front of the building. Currently, scaffolding covers large swaths of the columns, and the stairs are largely blocked off to pedestrians. Because of this construction, we unfortunately could not take in the full splendor of the Madeleine, but we were still able to enjoy the frieze and the columned side view of the building, and note how the art and architecture periods we have studied parallel each other. 

“Église de La Madeleine - Paris Tourist Office.” Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau. https://en.parisinfo.com/paris-museum-monument/71158/Eglise-de-la-Madeleine

“Eglise de la Madeleine Visitor Guide.” France This Way. https://www.francethisway.com/paris/eglise-de-la-madeleine.php

Century-old rats in the window of Julien Aurouze and Co. (1er)

Julien Aurouze and Co. showcases a surprising collection in its storefront windows… From a distance, the shop appears charming with its painted green exterior. Yet, upon closer inspection, our group discovered the macabre sight of rat carcasses hanging inside. Although we found it disturbing, we were captivated by the remarkable preservation of these bodies spanning a hundred years. Upon research into the history of Julien Aurouze and Co., we found that it has served as a pest control shop since the 19th century (Mishmash, 2016) Fun fact: it has even been included in the Pixar movie ratatouille! While it wouldn’t be #1 on our list of places to visit in Paris, it was quite an interesting site to see.

Citation: 

Mishmash, U. (2016, August 1). Unusual Shop Fronts: Julien Aurouze & Co., Paris | Urban Mishmash. Urban Mishmash | Paris. https://www.urbanmishmash.com/paris/city-guide/shops/julien-aurouze-co-unusual-shop-front/

Street sign on rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1er)

In the first arrondissement is the rather unassuming street “Jean-Jacques Rousseau.” The street was named after the philosopher, writer, and musician Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712-1778). Rousseau lived on this street during the height of the enlightenment who believed that human beings are inherently good and only become bad when corrupted by society. Therefore, he believed that society should function based on the general will of the people and thus led to Rousseau being one of the first to argue for the sovereignty of the people. Rousseau’s philosophy was instrumental in the development of ideas that would culminate in the 1789 revolution and continue to influence French politics to the present day. The apartment where Rousseau lived with his wife still stands on Rue Jean-Jaques Rousseau and serves as a reminder to the ideas that freed the French from the monarchy and allowed them to develop a government that supports its people above all else. 

Citations:

“Jean-Jacques Rousseau.” Wikipedia, May 13, 2023. https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean-Jacques_Rousseau. 

“Rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau (Paris).” Wikipedia, April 9, 2023. https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rue_Jean-Jacques-Rousseau_(Paris). 

Grave of Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvior in Montparnasse Cemetery (6e)

In the Montparnasse Cemetery lies the grave of Simone de Beauvoir and her life partner Jean-Paul Sarte. Simone de Beauvoir was a French existentialist philosopher and writer who was instrumental in the early feminist movement in France. Her partner Jean-Paul Sartre was also a philosopher and the pair both read and influenced each other's works. Beauvoir and Sartre never married or had children but remained life-partners until his death in 1950. Sarte’s existentialist philosophy helped shape both academic and public thought during the 1900’s and 50,000 people visited his grave after his death. Simone de Beauvoir’s work was fundamental in the progression of feminist thought. Both Beauvoir and Sartre influenced philosophical thought both throughout France and in the rest of the world.

Citations: 

“Jean-Paul Sartre.” Wikipedia, May 24, 2023. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean-Paul_Sartre#Career_as_public_intellectual. 

​​“Simone de Beauvoir.” Wikipedia, May 25, 2023. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Simone_de_Beauvoir. 

The ruins of the Roman baths at the Musée de Cluny (5e)

In the 5th Arrondissement of Paris, large Roman ruins seem out of place, yet, the Haussmann buildings and tall trees surround the expansive remains of a Roman bathouse. Now a part of the Musee de Cluny, these first or second century ruins span 6000 square meters and are what is left of an ancient frigidarium, the cold room of a bathouse. With tall ceilings visible from the street, but the “ground level” now being underground, these ruins are a unique Parisian landmark. As some of us had all already visited the Musee de Cluny earlier this week, we appreciated the opportunity to view the ruins from the exterior, something we did not do upon our first visit. We noted how, from the street, the ruins do not look as expansive as they are from the inside, and remarked how different and unassuming the exterior looks. On the street surrounding the Cluny, a market was bustling. Booths lined the sidewalks, selling normal market goods in a spread out setting; we wanted to stop at a macaron booth that we stopped at on our first visit to the Cluny, but had to rush to our next location. 

“The Ancient Thermal Baths.” Musée de Cluny: Le Monde Médiéval. https://www.musee-moyenage.fr/en/site/the-ancient-thermae.html

The exterior facade of St-Étienne-duMont church (5e)

As we approached St-Étienne-du-Mont church, our group was greeted with a delightful surprise – the captivating beauty of the cathedral. Positioned in the heart of Place Sainte-Geneviève, it exudes an imposing grandeur that dominates the surrounding area. Numerous individuals were scattered about, amidst the presence of rectangular stones placed around the vicinity. The architectural design seamlessly blends gothic and renaissance influences, featuring a stunning gothic rose window and flying buttresses. Although we regretted not having the opportunity to explore its interior, the sheer loveliness of the exterior was a sight to behold.

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Paris Art History May Term Post #2: On Pere Lachaise Cemetery

As I strolled through Pere Lachaise Cemetery in the 20th arrondissement of Paris, an array of tombstones and resting spots greeted me. Although the landscape and architectural marvel was captivating, I couldn't shake off the eerie feeling it evoked. The sheer abundance of plaques dedicated to the deceased seemed overwhelming, leaving me with a sense of suffocation. Contemplating the lives represented there, I pondered how many were lived to the fullest or abruptly cut short by tragedy. Despite my initial quest to locate specific burial sites like those of Oscar Wilde and Frédéric Chopin, I found myself disoriented amidst the vastness of the cemetery. The magnitude of the grounds humbled me, realizing I stood among the final resting places of numerous influential individuals.

What caught my attention was the exquisite park nestled within the cemetery, which presented a fascinating contrast between the realms of the living and the deceased. Within this sacred abode of the departed, a vibrant garden thrived, offering a thought-provoking juxtaposition. The significance of this scene resonated with various interpretations, whether approached from a spiritual or philosophical standpoint. As a follower of the Christian faith, I personally perceived it as a poignant reminder that life emerges even from the depths of death. Furthermore, it struck me how this transformational process could turn a feared and inhospitable environment into a realm of profound beauty.

Comparing the size and magnificence of each tomb proved to be an intriguing endeavor. Notably, a distinct contrast in wealth became evident as I observed the varying tombs. Some were scarcely noticeable plaques resting on the ground, while others stood imposingly and commanded the attention of every passerby. The immense tombs, constructed with opulent materials like granite, unequivocally conveyed the prosperity of those they memorialized. It was evident that even in death, there were individuals who sought to display their affluence. The realization that socioeconomic divisions persisted beyond the grave left me with a sense of melancholy.

I chose to focus on the tomb of Frédéric Chopin, a figure who holds a special place in my heart as an admirer of classical music and a musician myself (Click here to read more about the tomb and Chopin's biography). Anticipating a connection to music, I approached the tomb with certain expectations. However, I struggled to discern the musical association at first. The memorial comprised a rectangular tombstone crowned by a statue portraying a grieving angel. Adorning the front of the stone was a medallion featuring Chopin's profile, which seemed fitting, but the purpose of the statue atop the tomb remained unclear to me. Delving deeper into my exploration, I discovered that this statue is referred to as "The Weeping Music," symbolizing the embodiment of music as a muse. Armed with this newfound understanding, the significance of Chopin's memorial became far more apparent, resonating with his profound contributions to the world of music.

To me, Chopin's tomb holds great significance as a site of remembrance, often referred to as "lieux de mémoire." In my interpretation, a lieux de mémoire involves the assimilation of experiences into our memory, driven by their ability to transcend time and cultivate a collective bond of remembrance among individuals. Chopin's tomb holds a special place in my heart as many of his piano and orchestral compositions have played a pivotal role in shaping my orchestral career. It truly was an honor for me to visit his final resting place. (556 Words).

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Paris Art History May Term Post #1: On Experiencing Art Museums

As a participant in the Hope College art history study abroad course, I have had the privilege of visiting captivating art museums in Paris. So far, I have attended classes at the Louvre, where we delved into the study of 18th and 19th-century French art, and at the Musée d'Orsay, where we explored the realms of Realism through Post-Impressionism. In every aspect, my experience thus far has consistently exceeded my expectations and left me deeply impressed. In particular, David and Delacroix's masterpieces at the Louvre held me spellbound, while impressionist paintings showcased at the Musée d'Orsay left me impressed. 

I have a particular fascination with Edgar Degas' artwork, specifically the piece titled 'Danseuses bleues'. I came across this captivating painting during a leisurely stroll at the Musée d'Orsay (see link for location in the museum). As a dancer myself, I was drawn to this artwork because it portrays ballerinas in their behind-the-scenes moments. While on stage, dancers are often perceived as flawless and glamorous, with the hard work put into rehearsals often overlooked. In this instance, Degas forsakes extraordinary subjects in order to emphasize the significance of the everyday. As a dancer and human being, I was irresistibly captivated by the profound connection I felt with this painting.

From a visual standpoint, this artwork is truly mesmerizing. The vibrant blue hues of the ballerinas' corsets and tutus immediately catch the viewer's attention. The ensemble showcases a harmonious blend of exquisite shades of sapphire, cobalt, and cerulean. While the colors possess a boldness, Degas employs dark gray tones to introduce depth to the dancers' figures. The background features splashes of green, yellow, white, and blue, evoking a natural ambiance. The painting predominantly focuses on four central ballerinas adorned in blue attire, with the possibility of two additional ballerinas in yellow seen in the background. The ballerinas occupy most of the space within the composition.

Although I could not physically interact with the painting, I could perceive that the surface of the artwork had a coarse texture. This roughness can likely be attributed to Degas' technique of applying brushstrokes with a splotching effect, resulting in an uneven tracing of the strokes across the canvas. There is something about this technique that seems so simple yet deeply complex. This approach mirrors that of impressionism, employing discernible, small brushstrokes to depict a moment (see here for background information on impressionism). In a similar vein, adhering to the principles of impressionism, Degas employs the deliberate lack of distinct boundaries when outlining his ballerinas. It is evident that Degas prioritized freely brushed colors over precise lines and contours in his work.

This artwork has significantly deepened my appreciation for the value of art and art museums. In particular, within this piece, I find a profound admiration for the celebration of the ordinary. As a dancer myself, I often overlook the significance of rehearsals in comparison to the grandeur of a performance. Within this painting, I not only behold ballerinas adorned in blue, but also catch a glimpse of my own reflection. It serves as a reminder for me to appreciate the significance of seemingly inconsequential actions and to direct my attention to the beauty found in everyday moments. 

Participating in the Hope College Paris art history May term has been a truly inspiring experience for me. Prior to joining this program, my understanding of art and art history was quite limited. As a neuroscience major, my academic pursuits had predominantly focused on STEM subjects, rarely venturing beyond those boundaries. Through our visits to renowned art museums such as the Louvre and Musée d'Orsay (and many more to come), I am acquiring a deeper knowledge of art than what can be attained within a traditional classroom setting. Furthermore, I have developed a more discerning and comprehensive perspective when it comes to engaging with art. (637 Words).