splashbyriver

[splashbyriver]

Fashion has changed exponentially over the last two centuries. In the 1860s women wore thickly boned corsets, multiple petticoats, steel hoop skirts and dresses, always dresses. But between the 1860s and 1960s, women’s fashion shifted from grand hoop skirts to short miniskirts.   GQ writes, the changes in the silhouette of women’s clothing did not occur overnight. It was a gradual shift. First the understructure of the circular hoop skirt of the 1860s moved to the back, morphing into bustles of various shapes and sizes during the 1870s and 1880s. After that, women discarded the bustle completely and turned to slimmer skirts, while changing the shape of the bodice from one sporting large leg-of-mutton sleeves in the 1890s to a more modest “pigeon puff” in the early 20th century. These changes occurred alongside women’s changing social roles. As women began to leave the house for education and slowly entered the work force, they needed clothing that would allow them to flourish. Although a long skirt and corset may seem prohibitive now, in comparison to the large hoops and bustles of earlier decades, they were surprisingly liberating. While the frumpy look of this silhouette hasn’t been tampered with, designers have given it a chic modern look. Interesting patterns have been noticeable and so has been colour blocking, both of which draw attention to the lower half of the body.      www.splashbyriver.com or DM @splash_by_river to get your hands on our beautiful shawls/wardhan. 📸 @gaashcreatives    #supportsmallbusiness #artists #somewheremagazine #kashmiriartists #pashmina #reels #silverjewellery #viralreels #instagram #kashmir #handicrafts #art #decor #crafts #viral #nyc #trending #instagram #indianweddings #indianweddingdecor #indianbrides #bridesmaids #kashmiriwedding #kashmiribride #wazwan #ootd #ootdindia #travelgram #fashion #vogue #35mmphotography https://www.instagram.com/p/CSwvFBHFcuz/?utm_medium=tumblr

[splashbyriver]

Women's fashion at the beginning of the twentieth century was largely a matter of status. The stylish silhouette was defined by the narrow sans-ventre corset, which squeezed away the belly and gave the body an S-shaped line; by the long, sweeping skirt lengths; and by high rigid collars.  In the 1910s everything continued to slim down, and skirts began to rise, increasing women’s mobility. From the mid-1910s through the 1920s skirts grew progressively shorter and a boyish silhouette became all the rage. By the 1930s, however, femininity again made its mark with skirts dropping to the ground and clothing clinging to the natural female form, now fully unrestricted by corsets. For the latter part of the decade, the silhouette became more straight as women's fashion started to become more functional. The inspiration is still incorporated in today’s silhouettes designed  for women and continues to be the framework for the evolving fashion. www.splashbyriver.com or DM @splash_by_river to get your hands on our beautiful shawls/wardhan. 📸 @gaashcreatives    #supportsmallbusiness #artists #somewheremagazine #kashmiriartists #pashmina #reels #silverjewellery #viralreels #instagram #kashmir #handicrafts #art #decor #crafts #viral #nyc #trending #instagram #indianweddings #indianweddingdecor #indianbrides #bridesmaids #kashmiriwedding #kashmiribride #wazwan #ootd #ootdindia #travelgram #fashion #vogue #35mmphotography https://www.instagram.com/p/CSzT6UoFLee/?utm_medium=tumblr

[splashbyriver]

A dress silhouette is what you see in a dress at one glance – the outline of the dress. When designers get around to make beautiful dresses , they have the silhouette in mind first and foremost. It is the most basic thing about a design. You design the silhouette first and then design the rest of the style elements.  Empire silhouette is a silhouette with a raised waistline; that is the waistline is made above the normal waistline. This dress silhouette flares out from under the chest line. Usually the effect is achieved by making the dress in two panels, the skirt panel starting just under the chest. Other than design, the colour theme stands out the most. Black with vibrant dash of navy, red, and yellow makes for a very interesting colour palette. All these colours accentuate the look of one another and give the dress a very chic finish.   www.splashbyriver.com or DM @splash_by_river to get your hands on our beautiful shawls/wardhan. 📸 @gaashcreatives    #supportsmallbusiness #artists #somewheremagazine #kashmiriartists #pashmina #reels #silverjewellery #viralreels #instagram #kashmir #handicrafts #art #decor #crafts #viral #nyc #trending #instagram #indianweddings #indianweddingdecor #indianbrides #bridesmaids #kashmiriwedding #kashmiribride #wazwan #ootd #ootdindia #travelgram #fashion #vogue #35mmphotography https://www.instagram.com/p/CSuCmuwlCQ5/?utm_medium=tumblr

[splashbyriver]

The bengali designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee's collaboration with the Swedish multinational clothing-retail company H&M has been a much anticipated event and in turn, talk of the town this week. The collaboration aimed to design a range of clothing and accessories at affordable prices for those who wanted to own a piece of couture. The collection launched on August 12 in selected stores across the country and a few international stores and was sold out within minutes. The overwhelming response to the final collection substantiates its position towards a new approach towards high end fashion in the Indian market. The collaboration is indeed emblematic and lucrative in essence as it platforms the Indian designs and designers at a global platform, that happens quite rarely. It certainly opens the avenues for experimentation for small scale businesses and the scope for future global collaborations, given the demand for authentic ground level local product. It was also applauded by many for its creativity and inspiration for others. As for them, from a strictly business point of view, the collaboration made sense. The critics quoted “the pandemic has hurt most sectors, including fashion. Having a fashion label is as much about showcasing creativity and sustainability as it is about turning a profit”. 📸 @sabyasachiofficial @hm #SabyasachiXHM  www.splashbyriver.com or DM @splash_by_river to get your hands on our beautiful shawls/wardhan.    #supportsmallbusiness #artists #somewheremagazine #kashmiriartists #pashmina #reels #silverjewellery #viralreels #instagram #kashmir #handicrafts #art #decor #viral #nyc #trending #instagram #indianweddings #indianweddingdecor #indianbrides #bridesmaids #kashmiriwedding #kashmiribride #wazwan #ootd #ootdindia #travelgram #fashion #vogue #35mmphotography https://www.instagram.com/p/CSmeY7Al4RZ/?utm_medium=tumblr

[splashbyriver]

When the colour yellow has a central role to play in a masterfully executed outfit, the result is often memorable. As the unofficial colour of happiness and friendship, yellow is also optimistic, which is why we've been seeing it all over New York Fashion Week these past few days. It's no coincidence that this spirited and cheerful tone is taking flight across Fall/Winter 2021 runways and presentations alike considering the clothes on display offer a window into the seasons ahead.   According to the experts a Pantone Color Institute, we should expect to see more of these kinds of uplifting shades throughout the latter part this year and into the start of the next. Delicate, flattering, and easy to layer, this new breed of yellow is taking over where beige left off: namely, operating under the guise of colour but actually offering our wardrobes a new way to wear neutral. If you're terrified of bold brights, this hue just might be the one for you. Luckily, high-end and fast-fashion brands alike have delivered a wealth of styles to inspire us for the new season. Bringing the latest from the fashion world, we introduce the colour of this season with our classic yellow Pashmina shawl. Visit www.splashbyriver.com or DM @splash_by_river to get your hands on our beautiful shawls/wardhan. 📸 @icreateportraits    #supportsmallbusiness #artists #somewheremagazine #kashmiriartists #pashmina #reels #silverjewellery #viralreels #instagram #kashmir #handicrafts #art #decor #crafts #viral #nyc #trending #instagram #indianweddings #indianweddingdecor #indianbrides #bridesmaids #kashmiriwedding #kashmiribride #wazwan #ootd #ootdindia #travelgram #fashion #vogue #35mmphotography https://www.instagram.com/p/CSj1XRelbmU/?utm_medium=tumblr

[splashbyriver]

Handicrafts are an important part of the unorganised sector in India's economy. These usually require manual skills using simple tools and represent Indian tradition in some way or form. They have sustained lakhs of artisans in India through the years. However, the on-ground reality paints a different picture: artisans face challenges such as inaccessibility of funds, low penetration of technology, absence of market intelligence, and poor institutional framework of artisan groups. Over the years, a large number of artisans have moved to urban centres, seeking low-paying and unskilled employment. After the coronavirus pandemic, the reality is that the handloom and handcraft sector in India needs a way to survive. Over the last two decades, the Indian fashion industry has made strides. And unlike the rest of the world, it boasts of an indigenous team of designers. These do not necessarily mean only those who show on the ramps, but also those present in the rural fields. They are weavers, embroiderers and creators of embellishments, which no one in the world can create. Most of Indian couture and its glamorisation can be attributed to the handmade crafts.  The only way to do this is to become a conduit to the customer to buy directly from the craftsman which would involve minimal overheads. Visit www.splashbyriver.com or DM @splash_by_river to get your hands on our beautiful shawls/wardhan. 📸 @icreateportraits    #supportsmallbusiness #artists #somewheremagazine #kashmiriartists #pashmina #reels #silverjewellery #viralreels #instagram #kashmir #handicrafts #art #decor #crafts #viral #nyc #trending #instagram #indianweddings #indianweddingdecor #indianbrides #bridesmaids #kashmiriwedding #kashmiribride #wazwan #ootd #ootdindia #travelgram #fashion #vogue #35mmphotography https://www.instagram.com/p/CScCHuPFlCD/?utm_medium=tumblr

[splashbyriver]

Among the endless variety of colours and combinations that fashion retailers stock, black is a perennially popular choice. Its singular darkness has a unique visual potency, and its adaptability has long made it open to interpretation by the numerous groups that have adopted it. Various surveys in retail throughout the year found that of all the clothes sold, about 38.5% were some shade of black, making it by far the most common colour  available. At the moment, black’s popularity also appears to be surging. It works with every skin tone, every body type, and is generally a safe choice for a purchase—because even if demand for it ebbs, it never goes out of style. A convenient turning point in black’s more recent reign arrived around the early 20th century. That, Harvey writes, is when black “came to centre stage.” The spotlight fell squarely on it in 1926, with the introduction of Chanel’s famed little black dress. When Vogue put a sketch of Chanel’s simple, practical black dress on its cover in 1926, calling it “The Ford” of a woman’s wardrobe, it seemed to make official a new era in women’s clothing. It also promoted black as smart, elegant, attractive. Customizing it according to our needs, we can experiment with the basics of LBD almost entirely. Visit www.splashbyriver.com or DM @splash_by_river to get your hands on our beautiful shawls/wardhan. . . . . . . 📸 1. @icreateportraits 2. Installation view of designs by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel (1925-27), Charles Creed (1942), Christian Dior (ca.1950), Hubert de Givenchy (1968), and Arnold Scaasi (ca.1966) at Items: Is Fashion Modern. Photo by Sarah Dotson. 3. Haotian Wen Paris 2013-14 FW Campaign Fashion Photographer / Jumbo Tsui   #supportsmallbusiness #artists #somewheremagazine #kashmiriartists #pashmina #reels #silverjewellery #viralreels #instagram #kashmir #handicrafts #art #decor #crafts #viral #nyc #trending #instagram #indianweddings #indianweddingdecor #indianbrides #bridesmaids #kashmiriwedding #kashmiribride #wazwan #ootd #ootdindia #travelgram #fashion #vogue #35mmphotography https://www.instagram.com/p/CSD_eyqIKV2/?utm_medium=tumblr

[splashbyriver]

One of India’s most enduring artistic traditions is its myriad forms of embroidery. Every state and region boasts of its own style, but needlework is not merely a means of ornamentation. The fabrics are also threaded with stories of the community, with motifs emerging from its natural surroundings, economic state and sociopolitical milieu, writes Parikh for mint.   These techniques are popular not only among designers in India but also with international labels. Belgian designer Dries van Noten has worked with embroiderers in Kolkata for decades, and Mumbai is a trade hub for a number of luxury brands seeking Indian embroidery. Labels like Gucci, Valentino, Alberta Ferretti, Maison Margiela and Christian Dior work with the Mumbai-based embroidery firm Chanakya, while Roberto Cavalli, Salvatore Ferragamo, Versace and Michael Kors have collaborated with another firm, Adity Designs, also in Mumbai. Yet to feature on high fashion runways, Sozni has reigned the domestic market. These intricate design compositions are highly preferred today because of it’s chic and sophisticated look. Also, the utility of such a well crafted product goes beyond traditional, therefore, making it multipurpose.   Visit www.splashbyriver.com or DM @splash_by_river to get your hands on our beautiful shawls/wardhan. . . . . . . . 📸 @icreateportraits    #supportsmallbusiness #artists #somewheremagazine #kashmiriartists #pashmina #reels #silverjewellery #viralreels #instagram #kashmir #handicrafts #art #decor #crafts #viral #nyc #trending #instagram #indianweddings #indianweddingdecor #indianbrides #bridesmaids #kashmiriwedding #kashmiribride #wazwan #ootd #ootdindia #travelgram #fashion #vogue #35mmphotography https://www.instagram.com/p/CSE9jSglTZ3/?utm_medium=tumblr

[splashbyriver]

'Despite Kashmiri weavers modifying shawl designs to satisfy European tastes during the same period they could not compete with the jacquard loom. To make the Kashmir shawl industry more competitive a cost-cutting alternative of embroidered shawls was introduced. In 1803 Khwaja Yusuf, an Armenian shawl merchant sent to Kashmir while working for a firm in Constantinople, observed the weavers’ shawl production. He realized that it would be less expensive to imitate the twill tapestry-woven patterns with embroidered ones.   In addition, the embroidered shawls initially escaped the ruling Sikh government’s tax applied to kani shawls of a quarter of the shawl’s value. Mary Dusenbury writes in Flowers, Dragons and Pine Trees that ‘Khawaja Yusuf found only a few needle-workers in Kashmir with the necessary skill to make an entirely needle-worked shawl but by 1823 there almost five thousand.’ A rich tradition in sozni or needle-worked pashmina shawls began. The embroiderers continue to form a group of very specialized hereditary craftsmen creating exquisite sozni embroidery pashmina shawls'. /excerpt from Deborah Emmett's work on cultural imports and exports in Kashmir Visit www.splashbyriver. or DM @splash_by_river to get your hands on our beautiful shawls/wardhan. 📸 @icreateportraits    #supportsmallbusiness #artists #somewheremagazine #kashmiriartists #pashmina #reels #silverjewellery #viralreels #instagram #kashmir #handicrafts #art #decor #crafts #viral #nyc #trending #instagram #indianweddings #indianweddingdecor #indianbrides #bridesmaids #kashmiriwedding #kashmiribride #wazwan #ootd #ootdindia #travelgram #fashion #vogue #35mmphotography https://www.instagram.com/p/CSHjcdclFOH/?utm_medium=tumblr

[splashbyriver]

The Kashmiri embroidery has a distinct characteristic to it – both in technique and appearance. Kashida is the traditional name of Kashmiri embroidery, which came with the Persians, just as the motifs and style suggest much of Persian influence. The work is very colourful and derives its designs from elements in the scenic beauty of the land. This craft, mostly done by men, is said to have descended from royal patronage. Kashmiri embroidery is said to go through many skilled hands before completion. No single piece is ever done wholly by one person. The various threads and raw materials too are sourced from various places, and put together to form vibrant patterns. Yarns and/or plain shawls, which are dyed and treated are distributed for embroidering. The work is carried about privately in households or in groups at the Karkhanas / workshops. Training centres are another commonly seen feature, which have come up in large numbers owing to the growing demand for embroidered products. Visit www.splashbyriver.com or DM @splash_by_river to get your hands on our beautiful shawls/wardhan. 📸 @icreateportraits    #supportsmallbusiness #artists #somewheremagazine #kashmiriartists #pashmina #reels #silverjewellery #viralreels #instagram #kashmir #handicrafts #art #decor #crafts #viral #nyc #trending #instagram #indianweddings #indianweddingdecor #indianbrides #bridesmaids #kashmiriwedding #kashmiribride #wazwan #ootd #ootdindia #travelgram #fashion #vogue #35mmphotography https://www.instagram.com/p/CSKGsthFRJx/?utm_medium=tumblr

[splashbyriver]

/excerpt from ‘the impact of handicrafts on fashion'/history The Arts and Crafts movement ushered in a more naturalistic and more British – with its fresh new focus on English gardens and hedgerows – frame of reference for pattern, which influenced the development of dress fabrics. The work of William Morris (1834 – 1896) in particular made the ornate and fanciful renderings of exotic blooms that had been fashionable in the middle of the 19th century look mannered and out of date. Many younger members of the Movement took up the theme, and the simple forms of native flowers and plants began to adorn everything from wallpaper to clothing. Wildflowers in particular were popular motifs. With its medieval-style collar, voluminous outline and embroidered sprays of an English wildflower called Sweet Cicely, this garment displays all the elements of the looser, historical-style dress that was fashionable in Arts and Crafts circles. Visit www.splashbyriver.com or DM @splash_by_river to get your hands on our beautiful shawls/wardhan. 📸 @icreateportraits    #supportsmallbusiness #artists #somewheremagazine #kashmiriartists #pashmina #reels #silverjewellery #viralreels #instagram #kashmir #handicrafts #art #decor #crafts #viral #nyc #trending #instagram #indianweddings #indianweddingdecor #indianbrides #bridesmaids #kashmiriwedding #kashmiribride #wazwan #ootd #ootdindia #travelgram #fashion #vogue #35mmphotography https://www.instagram.com/p/CSZizVzFb1T/?utm_medium=tumblr

[splashbyriver]

For inspiration, the motifs were mainly taken from nature; animal and human gures were not seen in this embroidery. Bird motifs were seen on the shawls (like parrot, woodpeckers and kingshers). Floral motifs like lily, lotus, iris, saffron ower and tulips were mostly seen on the shawls. Other designs like grapes, cherries, almonds and apples were their favourites. The chinar leaf is considered as an important motif. The type of stitch matters too, single stitch style is considered to be the signature style of Kashida Embroidery. Besides there are many other stitches like satin stitch, herringbone, stem stitch, chain stitch, knot stitch and many more which are also creatively implemented. These stitches are however not executed more than twice. There are many other intrinsic styles like sozni work, paper mache work and even hook or ari work which comes under the wings of this embroidery style, as traditional motifs like animals, birds, owers, and fruits are woven into the fabric with the threads of gold, silver and other metallic coloured threads which replicate the sheer essence of the mystic nature. Visit www.splashbyriver.com or DM @splash_by_river to get your hands on our beautiful shawls/wardhan. 📸 @icreateportraits    #supportsmallbusiness #artists #somewheremagazine #kashmiriartists #pashmina #reels #silverjewellery #viralreels #instagram #kashmir #handicrafts #art #decor #crafts #viral #nyc #trending #instagram #indianweddings #indianweddingdecor #indianbrides #bridesmaids #kashmiriwedding #kashmiribride #wazwan #ootd #ootdindia #travelgram #fashion #vogue #35mmphotography https://www.instagram.com/p/CSMwjoLF4hF/?utm_medium=tumblr

[splashbyriver]

When it comes to finding a dress to wear on a day out, the options are endless. Certain outfits flatter certain body types, weather, and occasions, so it can be overwhelming to try and tackle the choices alone. The  maxi  dress is an absolute must-have for every fashion-forward woman. With a little creative touch, we combine A line and body con and make it even more comfortable and accessible. A modest fashion outfit, this sleek dress not only compliments the casual occasions but also flairs as a sophisticated choice. Maxi dresses prove that fashionable clothes can be high on comfort and practicality too. They are a wardrobe staple for the summer for a reason. Thanks to their versatility, summer maxidresses can bring you from beach days to summer soirées. You could just as easily wear the same dress to brunch, with lace-up flat sandals or sneakers, as you could to a wedding. There’s something for those who lean on the minimalist side. Visit www.splashbyriver.com or DM @splash_by_river to get your hands on our beautiful shawls/wardhan.    #supportsmallbusiness #artists #somewheremagazine #kashmiriartists #pashmina #reels #silverjewellery #viralreels #instagram #kashmir #handicrafts #art #decor #crafts #viral #nyc #trending #instagram #indianweddings #indianweddingdecor #indianbrides #bridesmaids #kashmiriwedding #kashmiribride #wazwan #ootd #ootdindia #travelgram #fashion #vogue #35mmphotography https://www.instagram.com/p/CSPV0THFQPd/?utm_medium=tumblr

[splashbyriver]

Frills and ruffles are enjoying the limelight in fashion news since 2016, and for all the right reasons. Nothing says ‘spring romance’ like frills and flounces that call to mind petals of wildflowers and delicate blossoms. This season’s catwalks were all aflutter with ultra-feminine details as designers including Emilia Wickstead, Chloé and Gucci embraced a softer, more feminine mood. From designers like Alexander McQueen to celebrities like Cate Blanchett, the entire glamour world is fascinated with the trend. Dresses, skirts and blouses with flutter sleeves, ruffled hemlines and flouncy necks are the season’s face.   In sewing and dressmaking, a ruffle, frill, or furbelow is a strip of fabric, lace or ribbon tightly gathered or pleated on one edge and applied to a garment, bedding, or other textile as a form of trimming. Ruffles and flounces remained a fashionable form of trim, off-and-on into modern times. Dress up a simple outfit with a ruffled jacket or cardigan. Then, top them with a jacket with a pretty ruffle to create a look that's instantly chic. The ruffle can be along the buttons or zipper, on the bottom hem, around the collar, or on the sleeves. Visit www.splashbyriver.com or DM @splash_by_river to get your hands on our beautiful shawls/wardhan. . . . . . . . 📸 1. @aneesbhats 2. @maisonvalentino 3. @zimmermann    #supportsmallbusiness #artists #somewheremagazine #kashmiriartists #pashmina #reels #silverjewellery #viralreels #instagram #kashmir #handicrafts #art #decor #crafts #viral #nyc #trending #instagram #indianweddings #indianweddingdecor #indianbrides #bridesmaids #kashmiriwedding #kashmiribride #wazwan #ootd #ootdindia #travelgram #fashion #vogue #35mmphotography https://www.instagram.com/p/CSR2EyKlaH_/?utm_medium=tumblr

[splashbyriver]

While bobbed hair always has an air of modernity, there's still something that's undeniably classic about the look. It's no coincidence that a slew of fierce, fashionable females, from Coco Chanel to Anna Wintour, are associated with the bob haircut.   Variety writes, “On a subconscious level, it still serves as an indicator of a woman's choice to break from tradition. While cropped hair has been worn by women across the globe for thousands of years, beauty ideals for women throughout the majority of Western history have usually included long hair (a standard that's held far more constant than those ascribed to "ideal" body types). The look has also coincided with rapid social and political changes in Western society since the start of the 20th century, although the idea of the rebellious, short-haired woman possibly dates back to Joan of Arc.”   Although scores of women have adopted bobbed haircuts throughout history, the style still manages to disrupt mainstream, patriarchal beauty ideals in Western society in a way that makes it one of the quintessential symbols of feminist fashion. And one thing that has persisted as long as the bob haircut itself is that whether the discussion is about hair colour, length or hijabs, women are too often judged by what covers their head rather than what's inside it. Visit www.splashbyriver.com or DM @splash_by_river to get your hands on our beautiful shawls/wardhan.    #supportsmallbusiness #artists #somewheremagazine #kashmiriartists #pashmina #reels #silverjewellery #viralreels #instagram #kashmir #handicrafts #art #decor #crafts #viral #nyc #trending #instagram #indianweddings #indianweddingdecor #indianbrides #bridesmaids #kashmiriwedding #kashmiribride #wazwan #ootd #ootdindia #travelgram #fashion #vogue #35mmphotography https://www.instagram.com/p/CSUWSksF7wF/?utm_medium=tumblr

[splashbyriver]

/excerpt from ‘the impact of handicrafts on fashion' The Arts and Crafts movement was driven more by a belief in a set of principles, than by developing a particular style. But this didn't mean that it had no influence on the world of fashion. Between the late 19th and early 20th century, Arts and Crafts practitioners produced a range of striking designs for women's garments, accessories and jewellery, as well as supporting the continuation of craft-based industries, and the development of the Dress Reform Movement. Embroidery was another craft-based skill enthusiastically promoted by the Arts and Crafts community. Popularised by William Morris's standalone pieces and 'work it yourself' kits, embroidery was mainly done by women, and, increasingly in the late 19th-century, designed by them. During a period of changing attitudes to women in the arts, many female artists seized opportunities to establish themselves as working designers.     Visit www.splashbyriver.com or DM @splash_by_river to get your hands on our beautiful shawls/wardhan. 📸 @icreateportraits    #supportsmallbusiness #artists #somewheremagazine #kashmiriartists #pashmina #reels #silverjewellery #viralreels #instagram #kashmir #handicrafts #art #decor #crafts #viral #nyc #trending #instagram #indianweddings #indianweddingdecor #indianbrides #bridesmaids #kashmiriwedding #kashmiribride #wazwan #ootd #ootdindia #travelgram #fashion #vogue #35mmphotography https://www.instagram.com/p/CSW-n0BFeWd/?utm_medium=tumblr