sydneyadventures

[sydneyadventures]

Final Reflection: My Return to New Zealand

It's the last day of our trip. I’m sitting by the sea at the Hahei beach, processing a flurry of thoughts and feelings. Conveniently, the sea is mirroring my emotions, swirling and crashing erratically, even dangerously. I’m feeling the strong yet warm winds against my face, laced with mist and humidity from the rains that are surely going to pummel down on me any moment. 

As I sit here, nauseous with uncertainty about what is coming next in my life, I can’t help but laugh at myself. I recall my time down under as a 20 year old being so full of questions and uncertainty.. and this whole time I’ve been thinking about how far I’ve come since then, how much more assured I am. In reality, even though I’ve unearthed so many truths and answers in my life so far, there is still so much more that I don’t know. So many questions still remain. 

Nature teaches us that just when we feel like we are experts - that we are confidently steering the ship that we sail through the seas of our life - something can happen at any moment that is out of our control. We are always without answers. 

New Zealand, and the songs and memories and feelings I’ve had here… it seems this is a place I can come to when I’m at a fork in my life. I have arrived here twice in my life at a time when I needed to learn. 

The weather today, and yesterday, on my last days here.. inclement, unpredictable, even dangerous.. I thought it meant one thing - that I was supposed to hunker down indoors and prepare for the next chapter of my life - but I think I’m seeing now that maybe it means something else. Maybe it’s because nature knew I needed some time to reflect. 

It needed to remind me that I am at its mercy. And that I am a small part of something bigger. 

“And at once I knew, I was not magnificent”. 

A song that led me here, now giving new meaning… sometimes the answers are right in front of us. 

Maybe there was a reason I couldn’t let go of this place. There was more here that I needed to discover. 

My adventures here have taught me so much about life. 

That you can do the things that scare you, and come out on the other side filled with joy and accomplishment… like rafting and bungee jumping. 

Or that you need to go into the dark, deep holes underneath, in spite of the voice in your head screaming that it’s not safe - because only when you are in the dark can you see the stars above. 

Even if those stars are something as odd and strange as glow worms. There can be beauty in even natures most strange and eerie parts. 

That you can be grateful for the experiences of your youth, for those storybook moments of young freedom that some people never get to experience.. but also know that it was never yours to keep. It was there to experience, to teach, to form who you are.. that you are to take what was given to you through that experience, and use that to move forward; and leave behind what was not meant to be taken. 

That in life, you can pass through, take what you need and bring it back with you, but you mustn’t stay. Sand flies might bite you if you do. Keep moving. Enjoy the view and keep moving on through. 

That you can relive and reconnect with your past, but you can’t hit replay on certain moments that easily. Some things can only be experienced once, because the feelings and emotions that you hold around the moment will be different if you try to go back and experience it again.

I’ll be back again, New Zealand. But now I know, it will be different when I’m back here again. And that’s okay. 

It should feel different. It will be okay, but it will be different. 

A small thank you to nature for holding the rain as long as it took for me to finish this reflection. 

The signs, maybe they are always there. 

---

The song Holocene by Bon Iver inspired most of this reflection; Why Not? by Jonsi was played right as I put my phone down to look at the sea. 

Time to move along. Sun by Jonsi plays as I get up and walk away. 

Goodbye New Zealand. Thank you. Again. 

[sydneyadventures]

Hahei and the Coromandel 

We left the Mount and headed to our next destination: the Coromandel. Ev had been warned by his colleague that the drive to the coromandel would be a bit wild, and he was right. The roads were twisting the whole way, with hairpin turns and blind corners aplenty. The views were great from my seat, as I loved watching the lush green forests pass by through the windy hills. 

We arrived at our AirBnb and walked the little town. The Airbnb host informed us that the town might be a bit sleepy, as Hahei is mostly a summer-vacation town, with a population of ~1700 in the summer, but only 400 permanent residents year round. School had just started and so the town was beginning to shut down for the end of summer. 

We also happened to have the worst weather all trip. The plan in Hahei was to enjoy the golden beaches and sparkling blue water, go snorkeling or boating, or to sit by the pool at our Airbnb - but the weather was cold, rainy, windy and grey. We still did all the sightseeing we wanted to see, including a hike to Cathedral Cove and to the Mercury Bay Lookout at Shakespeare Point. 

Cathedral Cove made quite an impression on me when I was here last. It was my first stop on the tour bus, and now we were here as the last spot on our trip. It was nice to see the cove again, the giant “cathedral” or rock bridge still as grand as I had remembered it. 

We had some amazing sorbet at a local spot called Little ‘Lato, and a good meal at the Coromandel Brew Co (great vegan pizza!). Outside of that, we read, watched movies, and sat by the beach in the wind and rain. The beach in that kind of weather is still beautiful, but in a different way. Made for a great spot to meditate and reflect. 

[sydneyadventures]

Kaituna Cascades and Mount Maunganui 

The next day we had a slow morning in the guesthouse and then headed out for a big day of adrenaline: white water rafting, and a concert. 

The rafting was on the Kaituna river, and the place we chose to do the rafting had thousands of 5 star reviews on Google, so we trusted that it would be safe and fun. Then when signing the release form, the river was described as grade 5 rapids, with “confused water and violent currents”… so that definitely got me a little scared!! 

Per Google… 

Kaituna Cascades: A section of the Wairoa River near Tauranga with rapids including "Mothers Nightmare", "The Rollercoaster", and "The Waterfall" 

Grade 5 rapids are extremely difficult, long, and violent rapids that are dangerous to navigate. They are the highest level of rapids that are possible to raft commercially

 The biggest part of the raft was a 7m waterfall drop! It looked like Disney world’s Splash Mountain come to life. 

As the guide gave us our tutorial, I was genuinely scared. This kind of activity is one that should go smoothly, but can come with great risks, as you can’t control all the variables in an environment like this. The guide was very reassuring, but also didn’t sugar coat the possibilities: we needed to be aware of what could happen and how to manage it. 

Ours was a team of 7: ourselves and two other couples, one from New Zealand and one from Alberta, and the guide - a kind but competent kiwi. When we first got into the boat, he walked us through some basic instructions about using the people at the front of the boat to create the pace, and we did some practice steering. With the first few paddles, I remembered the fact that I am pretty experienced on water and with paddling, what with our many years of canoe trips through Muskoka rivers and playing in waterfalls. The surge of confidence flipped the switch from fear to excitement. This was going to be an adventure! 

We traversed two smaller waterfalls and a series of a few rapids before finally making it to the big drop. By then we were fairly well versed with the basic commands, which included “hold on” - where you lift your paddle up with one hand and hold on the straps with the other, while keeping your feet placed under the raft benches forward and back; and of course, “get down!”, where you hold your paddle to the side of the raft and tuck your feet in front of you, scrunching into a ball with your head down to prevent whiplash. This is the position you needed to assume to get over the falls safely. 

I was definitely scared as we approached the big waterfall, but before we knew it we were flying through. The fall itself really did feel like a log ride, save for the splash, which was much bigger as it partially sunk the raft. Luckily, the raft is sturdy and bounces back very quickly. We made it without incident, which was a very happy about!

Overall the tour itself was excellent. In addition to the waterfalls, there were many other features of the river that they allowed us to play in - swimming, dunking backwards through the falls, going up and down rapids… worthy of the many great reviews they had. 

After the rafting, we then headed into the town of Mount Maunganui. The reason we came here was to see a concert - an Aussie band from NSW called Hockey Dad. Over the last few days we had also developed quite an interest in the opening band, Crocodylus from Sydney’s northern beaches. 

We learned that Mount Maunganui is often referred to as “The Mount” by the locals. The Mount was a sweet beachy town on a thin peninsula of land that terminates with a beautiful but small mountain. The weather wasn’t great - cloudy, overcast and windy - so we didn’t hike the Mount, but I could see that it would be stunning to do so on a good day. 

We had a delicious dinner at a fun surfer bar called AstroLabe, and then it was off to the show. 

Seeing a concert while away on a trip was such a perfect addition to the overall experience. It felt like a great way to really embrace the local vibes. The bands were awesome, and we had a great view of the stage from the upper platform of the small venue. The crowd absolutely loved all three of the bands that played. We were a bit sad that Crocodylus didn’t play many of our faves - plus the merch situation was very grim - but the rest of the show was awesome. Seeing a punk style band from Sydney during the last leg of our New Zealand trip felt like a full-circle moment. 

As a random aside, we really noticed that so many of the “kids” at the show were rocking 80s and 90s looks. You’ve never seen so many mullets and moustaches. 

We spent the night at the Baywatch Motor Inn - 90s motel vibe but completely sufficient - then had a great breakfast at a place called Gratitude the next morning. Before heading out, we walked along the beaches and watched some decent surfers catching an early morning wave, despite the high winds and rainy conditions. Ev and I agreed after watching the skilled surfers that this is one of the coolest sports out there. 

This was also one of the first mornings where I got a reminder of the cold conditions that I recall from my first time in NZ! Clouds and wind made for a chill, but luckily we had none of that on our trip until then. In fact, strangely the weather was warmer on the South Island than the North. 

[sydneyadventures]

Waitomo and Taupō 

Acquiring the vehicle and getting out of Auckland ended up being much more time consuming than we thought it would be. The streets of Auckland were very confusing - especially when driving on the other side of the road. We eventually made it out of there but not without a few wrong turns and missed exits. 

We had a date to go to Waitomo for a spelunking tour, but since things took longer than expected getting out of Auckland, we had to call to move the tour down. They could only accommodate us later in the afternoon, so we ended up having some time to kill before the tour. 

We decided to pop in at a place called Otorohanga Kiwi House - a native bird park with pretty good online reviews. As a bird lover, I was excited about the opportunity to see a kiwi bird and learn more about New Zealand’s amazing avian natives. The place ended up being a little sleepy and a bit run down. But we did see a kiwi bird in a darkened nighttime enclosure, which was neat! Apparently they can live to be 40-60 years old, and can be put into captivity and released again with no issues. They are often captured to ensure safe and effective breeding before being released again. 

The Kiwi House may not have been a thrilling experience, but it was a nonprofit organization with all proceeds going to bird conservation, so we felt good about our patronage. I didn't get any pictures of the kiwis in the dark, but did encounter this cute little parrot.

After a quick lunch at a local cafe (“Fat Kiwi Cafe”), we headed to The Legendary Black Water Rafting Co. 

We opted to do a Waitomo caving tour that was different from the one I did last time I was in New Zealand. This place had an option for a shorter, cheaper 3h tour, so we went with that. 

After getting all geared up into our wetsuits and boots, we took the bus out to the caves. We were given a thick tire-sized black inner tube to take with us into the caves. Much of the cave system was traversed on foot, but in deep, cold, flowing water. The cave didn’t get overly narrow, but did have some areas with high water and low ceilings where you needed to duck under to fit. 

I was surprised with how quickly my brain went from intrigued to anxious. I had a bunch of spontaneous thoughts of “what if there’s a flash flood and we drown in here”, or “what if there’s an earthquake and we get stuck, like those kids in Thailand that needed to be rescued”…. It was actually interesting to see how quickly my brain searched for the worst case scenarios. I decided to just breathe through it and enjoy - and lo, the thoughts receded. A good exercise in understanding the deceptive nature of anxious thoughts. 

At one point in the cave we got to float in our tubes along the running water while looking up at a ceiling full of sparkling glow worms. This was absolutely fantastic. I’d seen the glow worms before — both last time I was here, and on our little roadside adventure in Milford sound - but this was a special way to appreciate them in all their glory. It felt like looking up at the Milky Way galaxy, but the worms have a bit more of a bluish hue than the stars typically do. It was cold, dark, and amazing all at the same time. Felt like a Disney world ride come to life.

Today happened to be Valentine’s Day, and I couldn’t think of a more romantic date than to be cruising along a river under the “stars” with my valentine. 

After the caving adventure, we hit the road again and headed to Taupo. We did t see much of the town, but did get a chance to see the sunset over the lake while looking for a place to eat along the main strip. We settled on a place (Jolly Good Fellows), with a nice patio so we could see the sunset finish over the lake. 

Our Airbnb that night was a lovely guesthouse in the backyard of a suburban home. It was stunning! The walls and ceilings were bare wood, but the furnishings made the space absolutely beautiful. A great inspiration for how you can take something like a simple garage/shed and make it exceptional with the right touch. 

The drive from Auckland to Waitomo and down to Taupo was very beautiful. Stunning farmlands and hills that ranged from rolling to small mountains, with the road winding about in between. We commented that it was like the Caledon of New Zealand, if Caledon had mountains.

I was reminded of why NZ’s North island made such a perfect location to bring Tolkien’s Shire to life. We didn’t add the Hobbiton movie set tour to our list - too much to do already - so many I’ll hit that on my next trip to NZ. There’s already a full list of other things to come back for! 

[sydneyadventures]

North Island Road Trip

Our time in the north island was short but sweet!

We made the most of it with a road trip of the following loop: Auckland > Taupo > Mount Maunganui > Hahei > Auckland

First stop: Auckland

We arrived in Auckland in the evening and went for a quick walk around the city. We strolled around the viaduct area which is the waterfront where all the action is. It was quite beautiful, though some places were pretty quiet for a Thursday night. We had dinner at a place on the waterfront and then grabbed delicious gelato (Island Gelato Co.) and walked around a bit more in the evening. Auckland is a pretty city, but I’m glad we didn’t stay longer than one night - but that’s usually the case for us. We don’t find ourselves overly entertained in most cities. 

The next morning we walked around a bit more and had a delicious breakfast at a nearby place called Bagel Love. After that it was off to the rental car place to get into our vehicle for the road trip section of our trip. 

We spent most of the time in the car listening to a playlist Ev crafted on the plane from Sydney to Queenstown, featuring Crocodylus and Hockey Dad - the bands we will be seeing live later on this trip - and a few other Aussie/Kiwi bands that we've encountered while here. The Rions, Thirsty Merc, Fat Freddie's Drop, Sticky Fingers and The Black Seeds were some of the favourites. It's been fun to discover new local music, and I know that when I hear these songs in the years to come I'll always think of this trip!

[sydneyadventures]

Queenstown Adventures

On our last day in Queenstown, we decided to take part in some of the adventure activities that Queenstown is famous for. 

We started our day with the breakfast buffet at the Holiday inn express. This might seem like a weird detail to mention, but it’s worth mentioning because this was no ordinary holiday inn. Si had stayed there on his own for his first few days in Queenstown, and was impressed by the rooms, facilities, and great location - walking distance from downtown where all the action is. Once we arrived, we moved to Kamana Lake house - a much more bougie hotel, with a bigger price tag, that was honestly no more impressive than the holiday inn. In fact, it was inconveniently located far from town, and did not have a buffet breakfast. Si decided to cancel the rest of our stay there in favour of the holiday inn, and it was the right move! 

Anyway… back to adventures. 

We started our day by heading to the Shotover Canyon Swing. This was something I thoroughly enjoyed on my first NZ trip, so I was keen to take Ev back for another go. This is the place that has a bunch of different jump styles for falling into the canyon. There’s a freefall for a few seconds before the wire catches, and then you swing around in the canyon before being reeled back up. 

We opted to go tandem, in a style they call the “chop and drop”. After getting all bucked into the swing, they have you dangling by a single wire, which they slowly and painfully cut through with a pocket knife. You can see the wire getting thinner and thinner as they shave it through… the suspense was wild!!!! Then finally, before you know it, you’re falling down into the canyon below. We loved it! 

I decided to do a second jump solo as well, primarily because I wanted to relive my Nevis bungee experience - that’s the taller and FAR scarier jump, and we didn’t have time to do both the Nevis and the swing. Plus, though I braved the Nevis once, I don’t think I could handle doing it again now, as my fear of heights has only worsened over time…. But doing a solo canyon freefall was a way to scratch that itch and feel that adrenaline. I opted to do a simple straight jump off, like you would when cliff jumping at the cottage… except with a far larger freefall. I could feel my heart pounding in my chest as they clipped me in; the sudden chorus of “nope I shouldn’t be doing this!” running through my mind.. but I jumped anyway, and like any other time I’ve faced the fear and jumped anyway, it was worth it. 

The company that does the canyon swing also does something called the Shotover Jet, and if you do the swing and jet together they make it a combo, so we decided to add that on - and wow, I’m glad we did!!! I did not expect to enjoy the jet boat ride as much as I did. It was truly wild! 

The jet boat is a kiwi invention, and the driver explained to us that it’s basically a big jet ski. Instead of a classic boat motor, it works like a jet ski does, sucking in and pushing out water at a whopping 400-something litres per second. This mechanism is especially cool because it means that the boat can run in extremely swallow water - as little as 10cm deep!!! 

The boat absolutely whipped through the river. In the narrow parts of the canyon we blew past the large rocky walls with veryyyy little space, at an unbelievable speed. Those drivers are highly skilled, because just about every corner felt like a near-miss! The boat flies through the shallowest parts of the river, water so shallow that a kayak would struggle to pass. It feels like you are just flying over rocks.. absolutely mind blowing that a boat can handle that. 

Every few minutes, the driver would do a wicked 360 spin-out, splashing water over us all. It was the perfect activity for someone like me, having grown up whipping around on a tube behind my dad’s boat in Muskoka. Would definitely recommend! 

We met Simon back at the hotel, and drove with him to the airport to pick up his rental car. From here, he’s headed to Lake Wanaka for a few relaxing days, and we’re off to Auckland for an adventure on the North island. Before parting ways, we drove to a brewery nearby called Altitude Brew Co and had some beers and pizza. We were especially impressed with this company, as they brew a delightful nonalcoholic IPA called the Good Times XPA that we loved - best nonalcoholic beer I’ve ever had. 

It’s off to Auckland now, but wow did we ever have a great time in the South Island. Funny how even though I’ve now been to New Zealand twice, the list of things I want to do seems to be getting longer, not shorter!

Summary of Recommendations for Queenstown

Accommodation Queenstown: Holiday Inn Express on Sydney street (there’s more than one!) 

Trek: Ultimate Hikes Co for the Milford Track 

Restaurants: Lokal, Botswana Butchery, Mrs. Ferg’s Gelato, Altitude Brew Co. 

Activities: Queenstown Golf Club, Canyon Swing + Shotover Jet

Misc: Small Planet Queenstown outdoors shop if you need any gear! 

[sydneyadventures]

Milford Track Day 5: The Iconic Milford Sound & Final Thoughts on the Trek

Our last trek day was also not much of a trek - like the first day, it was more of a travel day, but the views were wonderful. 

It started with a cruise on Milford sound first thing in the morning. Most of the tourist boats go out later in the day, after all the buses from Queenstown come in, so we felt like we had the fiord to ourselves. It was a perfect blue sky day, and we got to watch the morning sun cascading over the mountain peaks and onto the sparkling blue water. This was a very stark contrast from the last time I did the Milford boat ride - that day it was pouring rain and freezing cold. The rain did make for some fantastic waterfalls, but the mist did not allow for great visibility. Today, I had the opportunity to see the Sound from horizon to horizon, in all of its glory. I’m grateful to have had two very unique and different experiences of this natural wonder. 

After the boat ride, we got on the bus for the journey back to Queenstown. The bus ride was extraordinarily scenic, and I quite enjoyed having some downtime to reflect on my time in NZ, and the experience we just had. I admired the fields of golden grasses in the mountain valleys that, to me, are so iconic of the South Island - something I remember seeing when I was here last, that I have not seen in any place since. 

Overall, I’d say the Milford trek was definitely worth doing. Ultimate Hikes provided a great experience, making it a very comfortable trip. The hike itself was not overly challenging for me, but others in our group definitely found it to be (our group being mostly in their 50s and upward, mind you!). I could see how it would be drastically more challenging if the weather had been bad, mind you - and it often is, as we’ve been told that it rains on the trek for at least 200 days a year. We only had one morning of light rain, so we didn’t have to deal with slippery rocks or soaked gear. 

AND! I wasn’t even cold! I remember being freezing cold on my last trip to New Zealand, especially in the South Island. As such, I specifically packed a thick puffer coat and lined pants in my suitcase, but opted not to bring them on the trek, which was the right call. They told us to “be bold and start cold” every morning because you invariably will warm up once you get moving. I ended up hiking in shorts every day from start to finish. I kept a long sleeve on most days, but less so out of cold and more so to keep my arms and shouldered covered from the harsh New Zealand sun. 

Being on this trek has made me aware of how so much more comfortable I am as an adventurer and outdoors-person now, compared to my first visit to New Zealand. I get a bit intimidated by all the technical gear that folks boast about - something I acutely remember giving me anxiety when it came to my first NZ trip. Turns out I have accumulated all the right gear over the years of adventuring. Some of it is very technical outdoorsy brands and others not, but it’s not about the brands. It’s about what works for you. It’s possible that the weather was actually colder and worse when I was here last, which is why I remember being so cold, but it’s also possible that I just didn’t pack well. I was so focused on packing minimal things, and hadn’t had enough travel experience to understand what’s essential and what’s not. In any case, the fact that I’ve been warm here has been quite a treat.  

After settling back in at our hotel in Queenstown, Ev and I walked around the town for a bit before meeting Simon for dinner. We stopped back in at a shop called Small Planet - the coolest locally-owned outdoors store we’ve ever encountered. Ev bought a hat from there before our trek, and we had to hold back from buying all their other merch. 

We ate at a place called Botswana Butchery, which was a little on the pricier side but a good fit for a celebratory dinner after completing the trek. We finished with another round of Mrs. Ferg’s gelato and sorbet - Si’s 4th or 5th visit! - and then walked along the waterfront and watched the sun set over the mountains and lake. 

The Queenstown waterfront is such a wonderful place. Touristy, like most waterfront areas tend to be, but you can also catch lots of locals with their slack lines, and families with their kids… it’s a great energy. When walking through the botanical gardens near the waterfront, we stumbled upon the Queenstown ice rink, and Ev was impressed to see that they have their own local team - the Queenstown Rangers! We joked about how we’d move here so Ev could be their star player…. Who knows, maybe someday. 

[sydneyadventures]

Milford Track Day 4: Waterfalls, Ferns and Worms

The last day of our trek was not quite as challenging as the McKinnon pass, as there wasn’t a ton of up and down.. but it was still quite a long walk. 

The views were different from the pass day - less mountainous, as we were following a beautiful sapphire river through the mountain valley. The trail was pretty well nestled within the trees so the view of the surrounding ranges would only peek out now and again. 

The greenery was a little less dense than the vegetation on the pass. In the first day, the forest had a lot of low beech trees with goblin moss. Here, there were lots of tall thin trees that had the shape of a palm tree, but the leaves of a fern. Very Jurassic park! 

The highlight was another waterfall with lots of sun, perfect for a little rest and lunch. Ev went for another cold water swim, this time with our newest guide names Kaz (he joined our group at the pass). Kaz is from Kyoto, living now as a New Zealander, and has hiked the Milford trek a whopping 177 times! Our other guides had only done it 10 or 14 times. Kaz was also a ski instructor, and recommended that we put Japan on our list for world’s best powder. 

Speaking of people, we did meet a bunch of super nice folks on this hike. Our closest pals included Giorgia, a solo traveller from Italy about our age; Vera and Allan, a couple from Orange County California but originally Canadian; Robin, a gruff but charming kiwi; and a gaggle of four Aussie gals who were very sweet and always game for a laugh. The group generally skewed older, with Ev, Giorgia and I being the youngest by a pretty large margin. 

We also connected pretty well with two other guides, Aika from Kyoto and Jessie from New South Wales.. and we had a good laugh about the one kiwi guide named Zack who was nice, but didn’t seem to like me and Ev very much. Jessie’s parents, Simon and Lisa, were on the trek with us - they were the ones with the horrible weather on their first Milford attempt. They literally had a metre of rainfall and had to take a helicopter out after the Pass… so yeah, our weather was a big step up from that! 

The trek finished at a spot called Sandfly point, which the guides had emphasized over and over that “it’s called that for a reason”… I was expecting clouds of bugs like I had encountered in Abel Tasman on my last NZ trip, but it turned out to be nothing worse than any other place we’d encountered. 

I did however enjoy the Māori tale about the sand flies on the Milford trek… they say that the gods of creation knew that they made something so beautiful when they created Milford sound, and they didn’t want humans to ruin it, so they put the sandflies there to make sure that humans wouldn’t linger. It seems like an accurate tale, because the sandflies really are not an issue at all when you’re moving, they only start to bite you when you sit still. They allow you to visit but only to pass through. 

A quick boat ride from sandfly point took us to our final accommodations - the most beautiful lodge yet. The rooms boasted breathtaking views of Milford sound, including the iconic Mitre Peak. Every lodge we stayed at seemed even better than the last. 

In fact, all the lodgings, food, facilities etc were top notch on this trip. Basic rooms, but considering how remote we were, it was very impressive. The cafeteria areas where we made our lunches in the mornings and ate our meals reminded me of being at a summer camp - very social and fun. 

After dinner we did a short walk to a viewpoint with Giorgia and Kaz, and then chatted in the common room for a bit. We waited for the sun to set before heading out again with Giorgia, Kaz, Vera and Allan for some stargazing and glow worm hunting. You could see the worms on the underside of the ferns on the roadside next to the lodge. There weren’t very many, and though I still thought it was neat, we had some good laughs with the group about the whole adventure. This was the first time we’d stayed up after sundown during our time in NZ! The sun sets late this time of year, and we’ve been opting for early bedtime after some pretty huge days - but tonight I felt energized, giddy even. The end of the trek gave me a sense of accomplishment and celebration. Felt good to have made it! 

The last comment I’ll make is about the stars - we could see the Orion constellation from Milford sound, which also happens to be the constellation I can see most clearly when at home. I thought it was odd that I could see the same stars on the other side of the globe, but then I realized that it’s not the same, because Orion is upside down here in NZ! 

[sydneyadventures]

A few more photos from our magnificent day on the McKinnon Pass!

Side note - I'm including an abundance of photos of New Zealand this time around! Last time, I lost all of the photos I took due to a camera memory card failure. I did end up getting the photos back, but when I did, it was more than a year later. Another reason I feel grateful for the opportunity to make more new memories here.

[sydneyadventures]

Milford Track Day 3: McKinnon Pass

Well… this day really showed me why this trail is so famous. Absolutely stunning!!! Ev was also feeling much better which was a relief. 

The day was off to a strong start out of the gate, as we encountered a group of charming kea birds on the terrace after breakfast. The kea is a mountain parrot only found in New Zealand. They have the intelligence of a three year old child, and can be very cheeky. The lodge had set up a cute little playground for them, with some mirrors and toys- including a discarded hiking boot which they enjoyed tearing to shreds. It was noted that you should not leave your boots outside as they love to cause trouble by ripping them up! I had a good laugh watching them play with each other. A few of the birds were also fascinated by one group member’s expensive camera, coming close to inspect the lens. It seemed like they were lining up to have their picture taken. The lodge staff joked that the more expensive the item, the more the keas are attracted to it. Watching this all play out was so fun for a bird lover like me! 

Onto the trek — We got so lucky with the weather today. The first bit was cloudy and a bit rainy and muggy, but the cloud cover was beautiful in a mysterious and misty sort of way. It felt kind of like the curtain was slowly being pulled back before the show started.

By the time we made it up towards the McKinnon pass, the clouds opened up, so we had blue skies and sunlight as we ascended to the highest point. The clouds didn’t go away entirely though, they still passed through, like little cotton fluffs floating around the mountains. I’ve never seen clouds like that before in any mountain landscape.

What was even more stunning was the movement of the clouds - the view would change drastically minute by minute as clouds passed through and then retreated. It made it hard to leave the area, because just when you thought you’d taken in all there was to see, the view would change. 

We had a couple in our group that had done the hike before, but couldn’t finish it due to horrible weather conditions. They did the pass we did today, but with such severe clouds and rainfall that they couldn’t see a thing. Our day today was the complete opposite… in fact, even the guides were taking photos of the view, and told us that it was one of the best days they’d ever seen. 

The great views didn’t stop after the pass. As we started to walk down, the mountain views continued, but what really blew me away was the plants! Stunning, lush ferns and palms lining the trail in such clean, perfect formation… you’d think it was professionally landscaped, but it’s just Mother Nature in all her glory. With the ferns and greenery in the forefront, and the giant mountainous walls all around, plus the blue sky above… it was truly magical. 

We passed by a few waterfalls and streams, all with perfectly drinkable water, fresh from the glaciers above. It’s pretty neat to be able to take drinking water crisp and fresh from the stream. 

The way down was a bit draining - I always find the downhill to be quite a challenge - but overall I felt energized despite the strenuous path. The weather and the views were just so stunning, and the path was dynamic enough to keep me thoroughly engaged. 

We eventually made it to the night’s lodgings, and it’s the most stunning site yet. The house is perfectly positioned in a valley surrounded by mountains, trees, and golden grasses. An alpine paradise. 

Before gearing down for the day, we decided to do a little bonus hike to Sutherland falls, which happens to be the highest waterfall in all of New Zealand. We were tired, but it was worth the extra journey. Ev and Si went for a dip in the falls, which they found to be very refreshing after such a big day. 

After all the hiking I did some sink laundry and used the drying room - all of the lodges are equipped with these facilities, which is very convenient! It allows you to keep your packed clothes down to a minimum. It also makes me worry much less about wet conditions. Usually the only reason rain might bother me on a trek is having to put on wet gear that night or the next day, but it’s not a worry with the drying rooms. They’ve really got it all figured out. 

Today’s hike was without a doubt one of my favourites ever. It had the dynamic nature of the rainforests and rocky peaks of Peru, but without the challenging altitude. It also had such unique flora that you can only find here in New Zealand. And the weather… so phenomenal. Feeling very lucky to have experienced the McKinnon pass on such a glorious day. 

[sydneyadventures]

Milford Track Day 2: Moss and Clouds

The day 2 trek felt like a warm up for what we having coming in day 3 and 4. The trek was about 16km, mostly flat and through lush, green forest. There’s “goblin moss” on a ton of the trees, and since we had morning rain, everything felt lush and tropical.

The rain was completely manageable- light in the morning and trickled out into the afternoon. It was actually nice to have some of the heat cut by the rain, though the temperature remained warm even despite it. I was comfortable in shorts the whole day, but shuffled between a t-shirt, long-sleeve and raincoat throughout the day. 

I was reacquainted with some of the flora and fauna that I adored on my first adventure to New Zealand: fantail birds, giant crown ferns, and we even saw a type of kiwi bird with a shorter beak called a Weka (not the classic kiwi, but close!). 

The most magical part was seeing the low clouds upon the mountains - Lord of the Rings/Middle Earth vibes were very strong. 

Speaking of, we learned that Gandalf’s staff is made of a local tree found here called a Leerwood, which the Māori also use for staffs. They tie a knot in the immature plant when a male of status is born, and by the time he is 18, the plant matures and becomes a perfect staff, with the knot serving as a handle. Pretty awesome! 

Today we also learned that Simon walks about as fast as he talks, which is fast! He kept us moving at a very decent clip throughout the day. Unfortunately Ev was feeling rather ill today - suspects it was something he ate or drank - so he was a little slower today, but still did well! 

It’s been very fun for me to draw parallels from my previous NZ adventure to the present one. Last time I was on a Stray tour full of young people, of which I was one of the youngest. Now I’m on another tour when I’m one of the youngest, but this time by a very far stretch, as most of these folks are older parents and fit seniors. All the same, it’s been fun to meet new people and listen to their stories. Simon has especially been soaking this up, being the social butterfly that he is. 

After getting off the trail, we headed back to our room for a hot shower and some rest. I did a bit of blogging/journalling (as written here!) and had a nap; Ev napped most of the time to try to sleep off his bit of sickness. There’s quite a bit of downtime here as we left the Glade house at about 8am and made it to Pompaloma house (our current location) at about 2:30pm…. Dinner's not til 6:15 so we used that downtime for rest. There is plenty of socializing to be had, what with all the downtime and the big group, but I don’t mind hiding away too much… the mealtimes allow for sufficient socializing in my opinion. But for those who are not so into the alone time for reflection like me, the socializing is plentiful. 

[sydneyadventures]

Milford Track Day 1: Queenstown to Lake Te Anau

I didn’t fully appreciate how relaxed the first day on our trek would be, because I had forgotten how far out this mountain range is from Queenstown. Our day started with a long bus ride, but with extremely scenic views (especially of the Remarkables range leaving Queenstown, just stunning!) We had a quick (but delicious) lunch stop en route before making it to the water, where we then boarded a ferry boat to take us into the start of the trek. The ferry ride was about an hour, and the pretty green mountains and low clouds gave us a good idea of what is to come over the next few days. 

After the boat dropped us off we had about an 20min hike to get to our first accommodations, known as Glade House. The guides took us on a little hour-long nature walk where we learned a few things about the local birds and trees, and then it was back to the lodge for dinner and another briefing. Ev squeezed in a quick swim at a nearby river before dinner. 

We’re definitely not roughing it here - these lodgings are quite lovely despite how remote they are. We’re in a private double room, and we have a private shower with hot water, so that alone is a massive upgrade from backcountry camping. The food has also been great, with plenty of options for both me and Ev. 

 This first day afforded us some time to chat with our fellow hikers and get to know our group. This was especially easy to do with Simon, who is a full fledged chatterbox. He made friends with many folks right off the bat, and loves to hear other peoples life stories. 

Dinner is a full 3-course meal, so we had plenty of time to chat with and get to know the other people on the trek. Most are Aussies, a handful of Koreans, a few Americans, and a couple of miscellaneous nationalities (Italy, Hong Kong, Austria). Our guides are Kiwis, Aussies and Japanese, all young and very keen.

[sydneyadventures]

Back to New Zealand

South Island: The Milford Track

Our adventure in New Zealand began with the South Island, to embark on the great Milford Track hike.

When I was last in New Zealand, I remember learning about Milford Sound and how it was famous for its beauty. Even though I was here for about a month, doing the full trek was something I didn’t have the time for… there’s a lot to see and do here, after all. So I did the boat tour of the sound, but that was it. 

It’s funny how life has a way of working itself out - back then I chose to do the Abel Tasman multi-day trek/camp/kayak, which was a perfect choice at the time, and it left the Milford Trek as an outstanding item on my list. It’s as if I knew that my future husband and father-in-law would be so keen to do it. 

DAY 0: Queenstown 

We arrived in Queenstown in the evening, just in time to watch the sun setting in hues of pink and gold behind the mountains from out the plane window. It was late, and we had a few very big days in Sydney, so we headed straight to our accommodations and went to bed. 

On our first morning, we met Simon in the dining room of our hotel - boasting a lovely view of Lake Wakatipu - and had a quick breakfast before heading out. We had a nice early tee time at the Queenstown Golf Club to make. Simon was in great spirits after spending many days here prior to our arrival, doing two challenging hikes on his own. Despite the heavy activity he’d been doing, he was beaming and energized from how much fun he’d been having. He had fallen in love with NZ already, and it was lovely to see his enthusiasm. 

We walked and played the 18 holes under clear blue skies and hot, hot sun. I had forgotten how strong the New Zealand sun can be! In fact, NZ is famous for having high UV levels - something to do with the ozone layer being thinner here.

But the views on the course were absolutely outstanding. I watched as the morning sun streamed out from behind the mountain range known as the Remarkables, slowing ascending higher and lighting up the mountain’s features. 

We all played fairly well, and had a few great laughs. Si teased me about my putting skills, only for me to then drain a 10ft putt on the very next hole! I doubt I’ll ever be so lucky. 

After golf, we explored Queenstown centre - a touristy area with a ski-village vibe, but beautiful and bustling no less. We passed the famous Ferg Burger, but with lines about 45 min long, we opted instead to grab a bite at Devil’s burger instead. Funnily enough, I remember Ferg Burger from when I was last here - my meals mostly consisted of couscous and canned beans prepped in hostel kitchens, but my one indulgence was a veggie burger in Queenstown at a popular and well-known joint, so I have a strong suspicion that it was the same place. I don’t remember it being so lined up as it is now, mind you! It’s definitely the Weber’s of Queenstown.  

Then we had our orientation at Ultimate Hikes, where we got to collect our packs and learn about what to expect in the days to come. The last time I had an orientation like this was before the Salkantay trail in Peru -- and I barely made it through the presentation without vomiting from my severe bout of altitude sickness… so this time I felt pretty confident in comparison! Still, with a big adventure on the horizon, I always find I get some jitters.

After collecting our packs we picked up some sorbet and gelato at Mrs. Ferg’s - delicious! - a quick shower/regroup at the hotel, and then dinner at a place called Lokal, which was delicious. We tucked in for an early night to prepare for the next day and the start of the adventure. 

[sydneyadventures]

Reflecting on Returning to Sydney

Being back in Sydney has been an experience worthy of much reflection. It’s a city that holds such a special place in my heart, for the time that I spent here. 

As I write this, I’m sitting on UNSW campus, looking over the library lawn. 

For starters, I can’t believe how beautiful UNSW campus is. I remembered it being lovely, but now as I walk around, I’m absolutely stunned by the amount of greenery and nature. So many well manicured spaces… little enclaves and nooks… plenty of outdoor seating… I forgot what a pleasure it was to be able to sit outside and work or study. Canadian campuses are not built this way. 

My time at UNSW was such a welcomed break from Queen’s. It was a special experience to be able to go to school during summer months and warm weather; we forget how gritty the winter can be in Canada. I have much love for the peace and stillness that comes from winter, but the ease with which one can move through the world when it’s warm is very calming.

On our first day, walking around UNSW and past IH, through Randwick and down to Coogee beach… It all felt very unreal. I had the feeling of being in a dream, like a ghost passing through, observing but not able to participate. Especially walking into IH; being in a place I once called home, now feeling instead like an intruder… I almost felt like I could turn up the stairs towards my room and walk by my past self, with her cargo-green backpack, skateboard in hand, ankle bracelets and beat up converse… 

Some days, I feel like I’m still that girl, like those days were not so long ago… Queen’s, Western, and all the other chapters of my life are special in their own way, but nothing quite compares to my time here. My exchange happened at such a pivotal time in my life… at the age of only 20, I felt so much like an adult, but was still so lost and unsure of who I was. 

Being here now, I realize how much time has passed, and how different I am. But that’s not a bad thing; in fact, it would be bad if I was still the same person as I was then. The passage of time still has the ability to make me sad, as I’ve always been a nostalgic person. I have the tendency to romanticize all the chapters of my life, sometimes probably placing more weight on things then I should, as it makes it harder to leave things in the past. But still; as I sit in that sadness, I also have gratitude. The girl who went to school here, she had so many unanswered questions about where her life was going. Here I am, 13 years later, so grateful for the answers I’ve found, and for the questions that are still unanswered. I am so much more certain now, of who I am and what my life is about, and I’m able to acknowledge the remaining uncertainties with curiosity and confidence instead of fear. 

It’s also been an interesting experience, to see what it feels like to revisit old, special memories. Some things are exactly as I remember them; some better, some worse. Goes to show that your experience of things is strongly affected by the lens through which you see them, and how that lens can change throughout your life. 

But overall, the thing I feel most of all is immense gratitude. For the time I spent here then; for being here again now; and for being able to reflect on what this all means to me and to my life. These memories, and this place, will always me a part of me, apart from me.

Above: Back in IH all these years later, with the window of my old room pictured in the background.

[sydneyadventures]

Ev & Syd in Sydney

Our Aus/NZ trip started off with a return to my favourite city in the world - Sydney, Australia. 

Even after the long flight, I got off the plane with a spring in my step.  I couldn’t contain my excitement about being back here once again. We weren’t even in the cab from the airport yet, and I was already telling Ev that our time here would go by too quickly! 

I knew we only had a few days to take in as much of the city as possible, so even though I tried very hard to stay present and enjoy the moment, I did struggle with a feeling of franticness. I didn’t want a single moment to be wasted. 

Ev did a wonderful job of putting up with me, both in terms of the franticness described above, as well as my constant reminiscing. “Here’s where I did this”, “That’s where this happened”, etc etc. I’m grateful to have a partner and travel companion who is keen on sharing my joy, because lord knows this would annoy the crap out of most! 

We arrived at ~10am on our first day, and since we had a relatively good sleep on the long flight, we were ready to spend the day sightseeing. We checked in at our hotel in Bondi, and took a short walk to the beach for some brunch. We couldn’t help but notice all the fit and tanned Aussies in the Bondi area… I know Bondi is famous for this, but wow. I didn’t really remember that being a thing before! 

The rest of the day was spent at UNSW and in the Randwick/Coogee area - my old stomping grounds. It was so fun to be back at UNSW. I’m impressed by how well I remembered the layout. We walked about and remarked on how lush and green the campus was. Now that I’m a gardener with a property of my own, I have an appreciation for landscaping that I probably didn’t have as a 20 year old exchange student. The campus is really, really stunning.

We got some UNSW merch (not at the bookstore, but at the “grad store’ - better merch there!), and then walked through Randwick down to Coogee beach. On the way we stoped at a Wooly’s (Woolworth’s - a grocery store) for some Aussie drinks and snacks. I was most excited about acquiring a box of Nutrigran cereal, my favourite snack when I was a student here. I never ate out back then - on a student budget and with a meal plan at International House - so I had few food/drink recommendations, hence the cereal being one of my culinary highlights. I still find it delicious!!

We walked down to Coogee beach, had a swim, and walked out towards the Coogee Bondi Walkway. Coogee has a lot of Norfolk pine trees, which I find to be iconic of Australia, though I know they are found elsewhere (I recall also seeing them in South Africa). 

We headed back to Bondi, had a seafood dinner at Bondi Road Seafoods, and went to bed early after a long day of travel and exploring. 

We started our second day by taking a bus downtown from Bondi. We had breakfast (complete with Aussie flat whites) and then walked around Hyde Park, St. Mary’s Cathedral, the Royal Botanical Gardens and finally, the Circular Quay - home to the iconic Sydney Opera House! A view that never gets old. 

From Circular Quay we hopped on the Fast Ferry headed to Manly Beach. This is a place dear to my heart, as it was the location of my great dental-surfboard-disaster. I had to go to many dentist appointments in Manly back in 2012, but I always felt sort of lucky that I had a reason to visit such a cool place so frequently. Even the ferry ride was nostalgic, as it cruises past the Opera House and boasts great views of the downtown skyline. Round

We walked around the Manly boardwalk shops, along the beach, and then down through the walkway that leads to a place called Shelley’s Beach. We swam here, and did a small hike loop with some ocean views - though I had my eyes peeled as we navigated through the foliage, for spiders and other creepy crawlies… this is Australia after all… none spotted, luckily. 

We walked back , had lunch at Three Beans Cafe, and then hopped back on the ferry to downtown. From there we walked through the Rocks district, down Martin Place and through the Queen Victoria Building shops. 

Downtown Sydney is so beautiful, just as I had remembered. Sure, there are some standard office buildings typical of any major city, but interspersed between you’ll find beautiful architecture reminiscent of a European city, except unlike Europe, these buildings are surrounded by tropical greenery and plants. 

After all that walking around, we headed back to the hotel. Ev was exhausted and decided to stay in, while I went out to Bondi for dinner with my friend Lauren, whom I hadn’t seen in 12 years. We met in Sydney, did a trip to India, and then in 2013 went to Thailand and Cambodia - all trips featured here on the blog. It was so nice to catch up, and in some ways to feel like no time had passed. I look forward to when our paths cross again somewhere in the world. Lauren walked back to the hotel with me and we enjoyed the sunset and twilight at Bondi beach. 

 Our third day in Sydney was another big one. We had breakfast in Bondi, and then took the bus to Darling Harbour. There’s more construction there now than I had remembered, and in the morning there was not a lot going on, but it was still nice to see. I also enjoyed revisiting Tumblalong Park, as I always thought it was such a nice recreation space. 

After walking for a bit we decided to fuel up with another coffee, and as we walked around searching for a coffee spot, we ended up coincidentally passing some bars that I remember frequenting back in the day - “Scary Canary” and “Side Bar”. I couldn’t have recalled those names outright, but as soon as I passed them on the street it immediately clicked! 

Coffees in hand (purchased from the Business School at UTS), we went to Paddy’s Market to scope out some souvenir bargains. This was one of the places that I remembered being great, but didn’t quite hold up on my second visit. We were a bit underwhelmed, as it was mostly cheap as in low-quality, not cheap as in amazing-deal as I had remembered. Its moments like these when I wonder if the place really had gone downhill over the last 13 years, or if I just had different standards back then. Either one is possible! 

After Paddy’s, we grabbed a few beers from a supermarket and sat under a shady tree in Victoria Park. The hot Australian sun was at it’s peak, so it was nice to have a bit of a break from running around.

We then explored the University of Sydney campus, which has a gothic, ivy-league feel… I might be biased, but I think the UNSW is more unique. The buildings at UNSW may be more modern and less unique, but the landscaping and variation of that campus is far more interesting. Still, if someone is coming to Sydney, I’d say U Syd campus is still worth the visit. It’s cool to see European-style buildings with palm trees next to them. 

We then had lunch in the Glebe suburb. I remember the awesome flea markets and thirfty vibe of this neighbourhood, but on the day we were there, not much was going on. We had lunch, did a bit of people watching, and went on our way. We stopped at a Cole’s (a grocery store in Aus, not a bookstore) to scope out a few more Aussie snacks, which was in a surprisingly bougie shopping mall, considering that we were at that point in an area which almost felt a bit sketchy. 

From there, we hopped in a Uber and made our way to the Centennial Parklands. We rented “Lime” bikes - bikeshare via Uber App - and cycled around the park. I had fond memories of going on long runs in this park, as it was not that far from my home at IH (at least not for a good runner, like I was back then… would be a bit of an effort for me to run that now!)

The Parklands are also home to a lot of beautiful birds. We saw cute little rainbow lorikeets, and a huge flock of squawking cockatoos. I should also mention that I enjoyed seeing lots of Ibis birds walking about in Sydney - “bin chickens” is what the locals call them, but I’ve always found them unique and almost charming. 

We cycled to our heart’s content, dropped off the bikes, and walked around Paddington and King’s Cross area. The main strip at King’s Cross was a classic place for late night partying, and I found some (albeit foggy) memories flooding back as I walked along. 

It was at this point that Evan’s friend Duncan called - a friend that now lives in Sydney and has for the past few years. We decided to meet him in his neighbourhood, Woolloomooloo, for dinner at a charming local eatery called the Old Fitzroy Hotel. We had a nice dinner on the patio and a fun catch up. 

After dinner, Duncan walked with us back downtown, and brought us to an amazing viewpoint (called Fleet Steps on google maps). We gazed out at the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge over the water, lit up under the night sky - just beautiful.

There were flying foxes soaring through the twilight skies and hanging in the trees above, which was such a treat for me - I think they are so cute and fascinating - though they are a little less interesting to locals like Duncan. 

We parted ways with Duncan and did one last walk through the downtown towards Darling Harbour - I wanted to see it lit up at night one more time - and then finally onto a bus back to the hotel. 40,000 steps later… it was an exhausting but incredible day! 

Our last morning in Sydney was spent having a last breakfast at Bondi (at a place called The Nine, it was really good!), and then we headed to UNSW one last time. I did a bit of reflecting and blogging, and then we grabbed a cab and headed to the airport.

It was a whirlwind, but we did and saw so much in our short time, so I was pleased. 

[sydneyadventures]

The Return to Australia & New Zealand

The next few chapters will be dedicated to my return to Australia and New Zealand.

My Aus/NZ trip in 2012 was where this whole blog began. It was my first big adventure as a young adult, and it ignited the passion for travel that led me to all the other destinations I’ve written about here.

 It’s a surreal feeling, to be going back and writing about it all once again, 13 years later. In some ways it feels like yesterday, and in other ways it was a lifetime ago. 

I’m so excited to revisit old memories, to re-write some chapters, and to reflect on how life has changed since my time here. Most importantly, I’m excited to have Evan along for the adventure this time, for his first experience Down Under. 

Pictured above: on my first day in Sydney, back in 2012, seeing the Opera House for the first time.

[sydneyadventures]

Final Thoughts on Colombia

Here’s a summary of our trip itinerary for Colombia:

Fly to Cartagena (we had a stop over in Bogotá) 

2 nights in Cartagena 

Fly to Medellín

2 nights in Medellín 

Fly to Armenia 

3 nights in Cocora Valley 

Fly to Bogotá 

1 night in Bogotá 

Some miscellaneous notes and tips:

When booking the trip, we weren’t sure if this would be too much jumping around, but it ended up being perfect. We had just enough time in every place do to what we wanted to do, and it included two days of relaxing (Blue Apple Beach Club in Cartagena and Lumbre Glamping Resort in Cocora). We could have maybe used a bit more time in Bogotá, but I was satisfied with the taste that we got. 

Flying from place to place ended up being very easy. The airports are small and the security for domestic flights was fast and easy every time. 

The trip in this order meant that the temperature got cooler with every stop, so it means you need to pack for all kinds of weather. From shorts and tanks in Cartagena to down jackets and toques in Bogotá, I used everything I packed in my suitcase. We went in the last week of November. The forecast had said we would get rain every single day of our trip, but we never did! 

Before going to Colombia we did do a travel medicine consult, and got the Yellow Fever vaccine as well as a course of Dukoral. We didn’t go for the Malaria medication. Otherwise we were all up to date with vaccinations etc., but if you’re going, definitely check for yourself! 

We brushed our teeth with bottled water everywhere we went to be safe, but we did indulge in some street food, fruits etc.  

We used Uber or hired cars when we needed to get around (not the yellow taxis), and didn’t feel unsafe at any point. 

Overall, Colombia was an awesome destination - one that I’m so glad we visited. I hope more people are inspired to check out this amazing country. It truly has so much to offer, and the people have so much heart. Colombia is not the country it was 30 years ago, and they are deserving of a new reputation.