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instrumxx · 1 year

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What are the main types of hydraulic fittings?

When it comes to hydraulic systems, having the right fittings is crucial for seamless and efficient operation. Hydraulic fittings are essential components that connect various parts of a hydraulic system, ensuring a leak-free and reliable connection. As the leading hydraulic fitting manufacturers, suppliers, stockists, and exporters in India, Instrumxx Industries takes pride in offering a comprehensive range of high-quality hydraulic fittings to meet the diverse needs of our customers.

In this blog post, we will explore the main types of hydraulic fittings and highlight why Instrumxx Industries is the go-to choice for all your hydraulic fitting requirements.

Hydraulic Fittings

Hydraulic fittings serve as connectors between different hydraulic components, such as hoses, pipes, and valves. They come in various configurations, including straight fittings, elbows, tees, and crosses. Instrumxx Industries offers a wide selection of hydraulic fittings in different sizes, materials, and grades, ensuring compatibility with various hydraulic systems. Our fittings are precision-engineered to provide a secure and leak-free connection, guaranteeing the optimal performance of your hydraulic system.

Types of Hydraulic Fittings

At, Instrumxx Industries, we offer hydraulic fitting in various types including the following;

Hydraulic Adapters:

Hydraulic adapters are fittings that enable the connection between different types of fittings, hoses, or components in a hydraulic system. They serve as a bridge between two incompatible connections, allowing for compatibility and proper fluid flow. Adapters often have different types of threads on each end, such as NPT (National Pipe Thread) or BSP (British Standard Pipe), to facilitate the connection between various hydraulic components.

Hydraulic Couplings:

Hydraulic couplings are fittings used to connect two hoses or tubes together in a hydraulic system. They provide a secure and leak-free connection, allowing fluid to flow between the connected components. Hydraulic couplings are designed to withstand high pressure and offer quick and easy connection and disconnection. Common types of hydraulic couplings include quick disconnect couplings, which allow for fast and tool-free connection, as well as threaded couplings and flange couplings that provide a more permanent connection.

Hydraulic Ferrules:

Hydraulic ferrules are sleeves or rings typically made of metal, such as steel or brass, that are crimped onto hydraulic hoses. They provide reinforcement and secure the connection between the hose and the fitting. Hydraulic ferrules are often used with high-pressure hoses and are essential for preventing leaks and ensuring the integrity of the hose assembly.

Hydraulic O-ring Fittings:

Hydraulic O-ring fittings utilize O-rings, which are circular elastomeric seals, to create a tight and leak-free connection between fittings. O-rings are typically made of rubber or other resilient materials and are placed in a groove within the fitting or adapter. When the fitting is tightened, the O-ring compresses, creating a reliable seal that prevents fluid leakage.

Tee Hydraulic Fittings:

Tee hydraulic fittings, as the name suggests, have a T-shaped configuration. They allow for the connection of three hydraulic components or hoses, typically at a 90-degree angle to one another. Tee fittings enable branching or splitting of fluid flow, often used when additional components need to be added to an existing hydraulic system.

Hydraulic Elbow Fittings:

Hydraulic elbow fittings are designed to change the direction of fluid flow in a hydraulic system. They have a curved or angled shape, typically 45 degrees or 90 degrees, allowing for smooth redirection of fluid around obstacles or corners. Elbow fittings are available in different configurations, such as male-to-female or female-to-female, to suit the specific requirements of the hydraulic system.

Applications of Hydraulic Fittings

Hydraulic fittings find extensive use in a wide range of applications across various industries. Here are some common applications of hydraulic fittings:

Construction Machinery

Industrial Machinery

Automotive Industry

Agriculture and Aviation

Marine and Offshore

Oil and gas

Mobile Equipment and many more

Final Thoughts!..

When it comes to hydraulic fittings, Instrumxx Industries stands as a well-known hydraulic fittings supplier in India. With an extensive range of hydraulic fittings, adapters, couplings, ferrules, O-ring fittings, and more, they offer the perfect solution for every hydraulic system requirement. Instrumxx Industries ensures the highest quality standards, reliability, and compatibility across its product range, making them the preferred choice for industries seeking durable and efficient hydraulic fittings.

Whether you require hydraulic fittings for industrial machinery, agricultural equipment, construction applications, or any other hydraulic system, Instrumxx Industries has the expertise and products to meet your needs.

Explore their wide selection of hydraulic fittings today and experience the excellence and reliability they offer.

#hydraulic fittings #Hydraulic fittings manufacturer

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nuttystrawberrysalad · 3 years

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Understanding Pipe Fittings

Pipe fittings are components used to join pipe sections together with other fluid control products like valves and pumps to create pipelines. The common connotation for the term fittings is associated with the ones used for metal and plastic pipes which carry fluids. There are also other forms of malleable iron pipe fitting that can be used to connect pipes for handrails and other architectural elements, where providing a leak-proof connection is not a requirement. Pipe fittings may be welded or threaded, mechanically joined, or chemically adhered, to name the most common mechanisms, depending on the material of the pipe.

There is some inconsistency in terminology surrounding the terms pipe, tube, and tubing. Therefore, the term Carbon Steel Pipe Fitting will sometimes be mentioned in the context of tubing as well as pipe. While similar in shape to tube fittings, pipe fittings are seldom joined by methods such as soldering. Some methods overlap, such as the use of compression fittings, but where these are commonplace for connecting tubes or tubing, their use in pipe connections is rarer. It suffices to say that while there are general distinctions, the common usage of terms can differ from supplier-to-supplier, although they represent the same items.

In this article, the concentration will be on discussing typical fittings and connection methods associated with rigid pipe and piping, with a limited presentation of the fittings that are associated with flexible tubes, tubing, or hose.

To learn more about the varieties of pipe, consult our related guide to pipe and piping.

Pipe Fittings Explained: Fitting Materials and Manufacturing Processes

Cast and malleable iron

Fittings for cast iron pipe fall under hubless and bell-and-spigot styles. Hubless designs rely on elastomeric couplers that are secured to the outer diameters of the pipe or fitting by clamps, usually a stainless steel band clamp that compresses the elastomeric material and forms a seal. These hubless or no hub designs are sometimes referred to as rubber pipe couplings or rubber plumbing couplings and are especially popular for transitioning from one material to another—from copper to cast iron, for instance. Bell-and-spigot, or sometimes, hub-and-spigot, fittings are joined today primarily with elastomeric gaskets that fit inside the bell and accommodate the insertion of the plain pipe end or fitting. Older systems before the 1950s were caulked using a combination of molten lead and a fibrous material such as oakum. Cast iron pipe is sometimes joined with bolted flanges, or in some cases, mechanical compression connections. Flanged joints employed in underground applications can subject the pipe to settlement stresses unless the pipe is adequately supported.

While there are both malleable iron pipe fittings and ductile iron pipe fittings available, the improved mechanical properties and lower cost of ductile iron is causing a shift towards greater use of that material.

Fittings for steel (aka, “black pipe”) and galvanized pipe as found in residential and commercial plumbing work are generally cast and referred to as “malleable iron fittings." They can be galvanized. Although standards list threaded fittings up to fairly large diameters, these generally are not used today as the threading of large-diameter pipe is considered needlessly difficult.

Steel and steel alloys

Galvanized malleable iron pipe fittings are often extruded or drawn over a mandrel from welded or seamless pipe. In smaller sizes they are often threaded to match threads on the ends of pipe. As sizes and pressures increase, they are often welded in place by either butt-weld or socket-weld methods. Socket-weld fittings, usually forged, are restricted to smaller pipe diameters (up to NPS 4, but usually NPS 2 or smaller) and are available in 3000, 6000, and 9000 class pressure ratings, corresponding to Schedule 40, 80, and 160 pipe. Socket fittings are welded into place with fillet welds, which makes them weaker than butt- welded fittings, but still preferable to threaded fittings for high-end work. The need for an expansion gap in the fitting precludes their use in high-pressure food applications.

Flanges are also used, with the resulting flanged sections of pipe connected via bolts. The use of flanges makes breaking the pipeline feasible so as to enable replacement of valves, etc. Most pipeline equipment such as pumps and compressors are also connected via flanges for this same reason.

Flange fittings are available in a handful of styles, rated by pressure and temperature. These styles include lapped, weld neck, socket weld, ring-type joint, screwed, and slip-on. The threaded flange is suitable only for low- to medium-pressure applications. The other various welded-on flanges permit higher pressures to be used. Lapped flanges are often used where disconnections will be frequent as the flange can spin freely, simplifying bolt-hole alignment. A special case is the so-called blind flange, which is used to seal the end of a pipeline but allow connection to another pipe or piece of equipment later.

Flanges can incorporate several different methods to seal adjoining faces, including O-rings, seal rings, and gaskets. Seal rings provide an especially tight joint and for the same bolt stress applied to a flat-face gasket, can resist a higher pressure.

Primarily, three standards govern pipe flanges. ASME 16.5 defines the ANSI flange, the most commonly-used flange. ASME B16.47 covers two series, A and B, which represent large diameter applications. Series A flanges are heavier and thicker than Series B for the same pressure and size. Series B flanges are normally selected for refurbishment work. ASME B16.1 defines the AWWS flange, but it is only for flanges used in potable-water service at atmospheric temperatures. Then, there is the so-called Industry Standard flange which is not defined by a governing body but instead reflects historical practice. The dimensions for these flanges are covered by ASME B16.1, the standard for 25, 125, and 250 class cast-iron-pipe flange and flange fittings.

Stainless steel pipe fittings can be used for sanitary applications such as food and dairy processing, and are commonly fitted with quick-connect clamps to enable dismantling of the line for internal cleaning. The flanges for these clamping systems are available as weld-on entities or in many instances available as wyes, tees, etc. with the flange integral to the fitting.

Metal pipes sections may also be joined and built up as pipelines using pipe couplings and other standard black malleable iron pipe fitting such as metal pipe end caps or 180-degree pipe elbows.

Nonferrous

Aluminum fittings are typically cast. They are available in all the same forms or shapes as steel fittings. Aluminum threaded fittings such as caps or nipples are available, as are fittings that feature a combination of threaded and butt weld connection styles. Socket weld options also exist. Welding of aluminum fittings usually requires a MIG or TIG process.

Aluminum pipe is also a popular choice for use in creating handrails, and a host of fittings for structural applications are available, both weldable and slip on/clamp-on varieties.

Red brass fittings such as brass pipe nipples are available corresponding to pipe diameters, and these are often assembled by soldering or brazing.

Concrete

Concrete pipe fittings are available in a variety of styles suitable to their application in large civil projects such as storm-water control. Aside from the typical wye connections, specialized fittings include utility hole portals and various styles of vaults. Typical connections use shouldered ends on the fittings which mate with counterparts on the receiving pipes. A rubber gasket provides for a leakproof joint.

Plastics

Plastic pipe fittings are available in both socket weld (sometimes called solvent weld) and threaded styles, with the former the most common. Socket weld fittings are designed to be welded in place chemically, thereby making installation quick and straightforward to complete. Plastic pipes are usually dry fitted, then marked, as the solvent used to connect them is especially fast-acting. Couplings are typically used to connect and join straight lengths of pipe together.

Fittings are available in standard shapes and styles and with the dimensional size ranges of material common to plastic pipe, including PVC, CPVC, PE, PEX, PP, and ABS.

Common PVC pipe fittings include reducers, elbows, caps, tees, wyes, couplings, unions, and crosses, to name a few. The standard cross-sectional profile for most PVC pipe or tubing fittings is circular, but there are other profile shapes available, such as square PVC fittings. However, these alternative fitting profiles are usually associated with PVC pipe that is designated for structural use, such as fences, railings, or furniture grade use, and are not associated with PVC pipe that is fluid handling applications. Besides PVC, other materials may be used for structural fittings, one example being galvanized pipe railing fittings.

Other PVC fittings include barbed insert designs, which are intended to be used with tubing and are pressed into the tubing and secured with band clamps.

CPCV pipe fittings, as well as ABS pipe fittings (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), also are usually joined with fittings that are solvent welded. Suitable conversion adapters for changing material types, such as from CPVC to brass, are also commonly available.

In some applications using plastic pipe, such as in plumbing for sink drains, certain pipe fixtures such as p-traps may be joined with a threaded connection using nylon washers and a retaining or locking nut. This feature facilitates easy disassembly to clear clogs.

Polyethylene pipe fittings and polypropylene Galavanized carbon steel pipe fitting are usually available with both threaded style or barbed style connections, and socket weld or fused options being also available. Similarly, PDVF pipe fittings also are produced with socket or threaded connections.

Where an air or watertight seal is needed, nylon pipe fittings may be employed and can be used with nylon tube or pipe as well as with other types of plastic or metal pipe.

Glass

In some specialized industrial fluid process settings, glass pipe and fittings are employed. Borosilicate glass offers several key advantages over alternative forms of piping systems. The material has high purity, so it will not contaminate process fluids. The natural transparency of glass permits the inspection of the process as needed, while the smooth surface prevents the development of scale or other residues on the interior surface of the pipe.

Laboratory applications may also frequently employ glass tubing and glass profile fittings.

Glass pipe should not be confused with pipes that employ a glass lining, which would be more correctly identified as glass-lined pipe.

Vitrified clay

Fittings for vitrified clay pipe are available in the typical configurations required for sewer installations. Like cast iron, bell-and-spigot is the usual coupling method for these fittings, with an O-ring or gasket used to seal the joint.

Types of Pipe Fittings: Applications and Industries

Callouts

Threaded fittings follow a standardized format on drawings. The nominal dimension comes before the description. When two or more ends of the fitting are not of the same dimension, the dimension of the run precedes those of the branches, or for reducing fittings, the largest dimension precedes the smallest dimension. Thus, a 1 x 1 x 3/4 Street Tee; a 1 x 1x 3/4 45° Y Bend; a 1 x 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/4 Cross; and so forth. The thread size on threaded fittings will correspond to the nominal pipe size thread as specified by ANSI.

Thread Types

Most pipe applications use threaded fittings whose connections can be typically characterized by one of the following systems:

American National Standard Pipe Threads (NPT)

British Standard Pipe Threads (BSPT)

The principal difference between these two is the taper angle. The NPT system uses a thread taper angle of 60 degrees, whereas the British Standard Pipe Thread (BPST) fittings use a slightly lower taper angle of 55 degrees. In addition to threaded pipe fittings which are tapered, these systems also specify straight pipe thread fittings, which do not rely on a taper to seal against pressure loss or leaks. Generally, a suitable sealant is needed to assure that the seal integrity of the joint or connection is achieved. Most threaded pipe fittings are designed to be right-hand threads, but there are some left-handed (LH) thread options available.

Metric pipe fittings are also available, identified by the nominal outside diameter and the thread pitch. So an M12 x 1.5 metric pipe nipple would have an outside diameter of 12 millimeters and a thread pitch of 1.5 threads per millimeter.

Screw fittings are usually threaded internally. The exception is the street fitting, which, in the case of a simple elbow, has one external thread and one internal thread. Pipes are readily threaded in the field. Joining threaded pipes and fittings can be aided by Teflon tape or pipe compound. When applying the compound, it is recommended that it be placed on the external thread only, to avoid introducing any impurities into the pipeline during joint assembly.

Piping layouts are generally one-line or two-line drawings, depending on the complexity of the installation. Where clearances are tight,and for many shop-fabricated pipelines, the two-line drawing is used, which shows the pipe dimensionally to scale. For simpler installations, the one-line drawing suffices, with fittings, valves, etc. designated symbolically. Pipeline drawings are sometimes shown as “developed,” which assumes the vertical pipes are revolved into the horizontal plane, or vice versa, to allow the entire piping system to be shown in the same plane.

Weldolets

These small, weldable branch fittings reinforce the pipe where a hole is made, eliminating the need to add reinforcing. Different forms of these fittings are available under various trademarks, covering butt- and socket-welded styles, thread-on varieties, as well as some special designs which enable connections at elbows, etc.

Welding process

Pipe ends and flanges are prepared for butt welding according to pipe-wall thickness. For walls 3/4 inch thick or less, the walls are beveled to an included angle of 70° and a 3/16 inch gap is left between them. The welder makes a root pass, a fill pass (or passes), and a capping pass, often varying the filler material between passes. For larger thickness, the pipe is tapered to a similar angle but only partway up the wall. In addition, a small relief angle is ground on the inside wall, serving as the location for a backing ring. Socket welds are generally used for thinner-walled pipes. Welding procedures are spelled out by an engineer in Weld Procedure Specifications and the welder making the weld will be certified for the specific process. Pipes sometimes must be preheated prior to welding and heat-treated after to relieve heat stress.

The necessity of proper pipe-end preparation and the need for careful fit-up prior to joining butt-welded fittings makes the use of socket-weld fittings appealing. No bevel is required for socket-weld fittings and the socket itself serves to align the pipe. About the only special requirement is that the pipe must be backed out of the fitting slightly to allow for expansion during the weld.

Prefabrication of pipeline sections, called “spools,” is often done indoors where automation can be applied to the fabrication process. Pipes joints can be rolled on slow turning machines to bring the work to the welder. Robot welders can be used. Techniques such as submerged-arc welding can be applied for productivity gains.

There are non-welded pipe fittings or no weld pipe connectors available as alternatives to the traditionally welded piping systems. Using a combination of swaged mechanical fittings along with the cold bending of pipe or tubing, this solution eliminates the stresses to the pipeline from the welding operation, reduces costs, and can provide for a modular system that is easier to disassemble or modify as needed.

Plastic pipe, and HDPE pipe, in particular, can be joined by heat welding, sometimes referred to as electrofusion welding. Pipes can be butt-welded or socket-welded. This is a fairly common practice for large-diameter HDPE pipeline installations. A range of specialized equipment is available for producing these welds.

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pinaclewebindia · 4 years

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stickyyouthstudent · 8 years

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Aluminum Skeleton Project Furnace and tool Builds

Hello Reddit!

My name is Martin Radvany and I am a high school senior who is currently in the process of creating my senior project, a human skeleton cast out of aluminum.

Skeleton Sculpture Drawing

I was on Reddit a couple of weeks ago asking general metal casting questions and trying to plan out my project over on this thread on r/MetalCasting. The thread got me on the right track but I spent most of the time on my thread over on AlloyAvenue. I learned a ton from these threads which shifted my plan to something that was practical for my skill level and situation. All my materials, quantities, suppliers and costs are documented on this planning document which will be updated as the project progresses. I am creating my own burner, furnace, crucible tongs and moulding box. The builds for the first three will be posted here and I will update this post with the mould box when it is complete.

I've spent this past week building my furnace and crucible tongs to go along with my already completed propane burner. This post will be super long because it will also serve as a rough draft for my written report for school and will mostly be a copy a of my post over on AlloyAvenue but I wanted to share it here with you all and get more feedback. Criticism and questions are absolutely welcome!

But before I get to anything else, many "thank you"s must be made.

Firstly, huge thanks to DavidF, FishBonzWVa and Zapins and the rest of the awesome people that made this possible by helping plan this all on my post over on AlloyAvenue. Thank you!

Secondly, I would like to thank Mr. Smith and Mr. Mentzer from Lancaster Foundry Supply for supplying me with my materials. Mr. Smith helped me source the correct materials and finish planning while Mr. Mentzer met with me when I drove up to Lancaster, PA from Baltimore, MD. Mr. Mentzer took a huge portion out of his day to answer my questions, check over my plans and even gave me a tour of the warehouse while teaching me a TON about the metal casting process. Thank you for your time and expertise gentleman!

Thirdly, I couldn't have done this without the help of three of my teachers, Mr. Shang, Mr. Conn and Mr. Smith, helping me plan this project and letting me use their shops and classrooms as work space.

Lastly and most importantly, I have to thank one of the amazing guys working at my school's transportation department, Mr. Ronnie. He has been kind enough to take time out of his day every single afternoon to help me put this project together. Without him, I wouldn't have been able to use the industrial welding, drilling and cutting tools needed to complete my tools. He even allowed me to come down any afternoon to work and I can't thank him enough for his time, patience and for teaching me about the different tools in the workshop. He's solved more problems on this project than I can count and has allowed me to move quickly through the building process while still creating functioning tools. Hopefully we'll be working together throughout the project because his knowledge and craftsmanship has opened up a lot of possibilities. Thank you, Mr. Ronnie.

Burner

Imgur Album for Burner

The burner was a recreation of Turner Forge's propane burner.

Materials

Tools : hand drill or drill press, 1/16 in. and 3/8 in. bit and a wrench.

1 x Half inch to three eighth inch brass flare (3/8 in. - 1/2 in.)

1 x Half inch to half inch brass gas shut off valve (1/2 in. - 1/2 in.)

1 x Half inch to half inch iron male to female elbow (1/2 in. - 1/2 in.)

1 x Half inch to one eighth brass reducer (1/2 in. - 1/8 in.)

1 x One eighth to one eighth brass nipple (1/8 in. - 1/8 in. x 4 in.)

2 x One eighth brass cap (1/8 in.)

1 x One inch iron plug (1 in.)

1 x One inch iron tee pipe (1 in. 1 in. 1 in.)

2 x One inch to three fourths iron reducer (1 in. - 3/4 in.)

1 x Twelve inch with three fourths end steel male nipple (3/4 in. 12 in. 3/4 in.)

1 x One inch to one and a half inch iron reducer (1 in. - 1 1/2 in.)

1 x Teflon tape

1 x Propane regulator and metal braided hose combo with three eighth inch female connection (3/8 in.)

1 x Propane tanks

Procedures

I mostly followed the steps shown by Turner Forge with only slight tweaks by me. I choose this design because it's made from basic plumbing parts from Home Depot and Lowe's and can be assembled without welding. This was before I realized I had a reliable way to weld but I like this design anyway.

Preparation

Drill 1/16 bit hole into the middle of the top of one of the 1/8 in. brass caps. Put the other one aside for now.

Drill 3/8 bit hole into the middle of the top of the 1 in. iron cap.

Take 1/8 in. brass nipple and push it into the hole made in the 1 in. iron cap until only the threads are sticking out of the top of the cap. Use a rubber mallet gently to force it into the snug fit while still trying to avoid destroying the threads on the nipple.

Gas Delivery System

To avoid repetition, Teflon tape will be used on all threads in the gas delivery system to avoid leaks and a hand wrench will be used to tighten joints. ALWAYS wrap the tape clockwise when putting it on threads.

Take the un-drilled cap and tighten it on. This will stop the gas flow so a leak test can be done after the gas delivery system is assembled. Having two of these caps allows you to disassembled the piece in the future and recheck for leaks.

Attach 1/2 in. - 1/8 in. reducer to the end of the 1/8 in. nipple.

Attach 1/2 in. - 1/2 in. male to female elbow to to the end of the 1/2 in. - 1/8 in. reducer.

Attach 1/2 in. - 1/2 in. shut off valve. Rotate so it is easily accessible.

Attach 3/8 in. - 1/2 in flare to the end of the 1/2 in. - 1/2 in. shut off valve.

Attach your propane house to the 3/8 in. - 1/2 in flare and use Windex or soapy water to conduct a leak test. Fix leaks and then replace the solid 1/8 in. cap with the drilled on and tighten well and conduct a leak test for the 1/8 in. cap.

Gas Delivery System

Assemble

Teflon will no longer be needed for joints at this point.

Attach 1 in. 1 in. 1 in. tee pipe to 1 in. plug of the gas delivery system.

Attach one of the 1 in. - 3/4 in. reducer to the outlet opposite to the entrance of the gas delivery system.

Attach 3/4 in. 12 in. 3/4 in. male nipple to the 1 in. - 3/4 in. reducer.

Attach the other 1 in. - 3/4 in. reducer to the end of the 3/4 in. 12 in. 3/4 in. male nipple.

Attach 1 in. - 1 1/2 in. reducer to the 1 in. - 3/4 in. reducer.

Fully Assembled Propane Burner

Set Up

I simply placed my torch on a cinder block with the propane tank placed as far away as possible and let it fire away. I posted this on my other thread but I'll link it here again. It works pretty well. I probably need to drill some holes in the tee pipe for some more air but I'm pretty happy how it turned out.

[Video of Burner Working](youtube;IJ3xbhi19Rg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJ3xbhi19Rg&feature=youtu.be)

Forge

Imgur Album for Forge

My forge was inspired by FishBonzWva’s forge.

Materials

Tools : hand drill, 1/4 bit, varying hole saws, philip's head screw driver, wrench, metal hammer, nail, 5 gallon plastic bucket, small plastic containers, 1/2 measuring cup, brushes of varying sizes and a whisk.

Sixteen inch diameter steel waste container (16 in.)

Eight feet of two feet by 1 inch Kaowool (8 ft. of 2 ft. - 1 in.)

Ten pounds of Satanite (10 lbs)

Package of twenty-five quarter inch by two and a half inch bolts with matching nuts (25 of 1/4 in. - 2 1/2 in.)

25 extra nuts for the one fourth bolts (1/4 in.)

Fifty one inch washers (50 of 1 in.)

2 x Firebricks

Drawing and Calculations

Written Forge Plans

Procedures

Preparation

Drill a 3 in. diameter hole in the side of the metal bucket. The bottom of the hole should start 3 3/4 in. from the bottom of the bucket. Burner hole.

Drill a 1 in. diameter hole in the middle of the bottom of the bucket. Spill hole.

Drill a 4 in. diameter hole in the lid of the bucket. Vent hole.

File down sharp edges of these three holes.

Holes in Side and Lid

Hole in Bottom

Measure and cut Kaowool to specified portions.

2 x 12 in. diameter circles for floor.

2 x 16 in. diameter circles for lid.

2 x 48 in. x 12 in. x 1 in. strips of Kaowool for walls.

1 x 40 in. x 2 in 1 in. strip for floor. This does not have to be continuous, just long enough to fill in the gap between the side of the floor piece and the wall. Note : putting a container over squares of Kaowool and cutting off the excess is a good way to get a nice round circle. Find round two round objects on with a 16 in. diameter and the other with a 12 in. diameter.

Kaowool sections

Lid

Use a sharpie to mark out holes in the lid for the bolts to hold the Kaowool on.

Use a hammer and nail to make a dent on each marking for the tip of the drill to catch onto.

Use the hand drill to make 1/4 in. holes at each marking and file off excess metal.

Place a bolt into each hole and fasten with a washer and nut.

Apply red paint to the tip of each bolt, line up your 12 in. Kaowool circle and pressure down to the mark the Kaowool. Repeat step with the other piece.

Cut a slit at each red dot on the Kaowool. Line up the Kaowool with the lid and press the bolts through their corresponding slits. Repeat step with the other piece.

Fasten down the Kaowool layers with a washer and nut.

Use the rim of the hole in the lip to cut out the vent hole.

Lid with bolts

Lid with 2” of Kaowool

Lid with 2” of Kaowool and 4” hole

Body

Line the bottom of the bucket with the two 12 in. diameter pieces of Kaowool and pack 1 in. x 2 in. strip around the edge. Pack down to make sure it's even.

Line the side of the bucket with one of the 48 in. strip. Mark where the Kaowool overlaps, remove, cut and reinstall. Do this until the layer is tightly packed to the side of the bucket and repeat for the second layer.

Push a 5-gallon bucket into the furnace to push Kaowool to the walls and floor.

Hold down the area around the burner hole and cut a hole diagonally into the Kaowool wall so the propane torch blows along the wall and swirls when it is fired.

Body with 2” Kaowool and 3” hole

Satanite

The Satanite was an easy material to work with. It mixed easily with water and the only hard part was learning to get the right consistency. It was simple to apply after the first layer; the first layer was pretty difficult but that was probably just me learning how to use the stuff. I had a total of three layers on the lid and four layers on the body with additional patches to fix cracks. I allowed the Satanite to dry over night before firing. Each time, I heated the furnace up in gradually longer burns until the stone set. Some of the middle layers looked gorgeous while the functional one I have now looks messy. O well. It'll probably turn grey at the top when I add more air and get to hotter temps in the future.

Then Third Firing Body

Third Firing Lid

Now Fourth Firing Body

Fourth Firing Lid

Set Up

I used two firebricks to make a plinth. I took the first brick and used a file to round out its edges so it could fit inside the forge and cut two additional pieces for the sides.

Video of Forge Lit with Lid Off

Video of Forge Lit with Lid On

I need to work on making an air blower to combust the propane in the furnace.

I got it to glow if that means anything.

Body Glowing Red Hot

Lid Glowing Red Hot

Crucible Tongs

Imgur Album of Crucible Tongs

My goal with these crucible tongs was to avoid having to use both lifting AND pouring tongs so I made a hybrid. I spent a lot of time thinking about the design while reading various threads. Thank you!

Materials

3 x Thirty-six inches of three fourths steel bar (108 in. of 3/4 in.)

2 x Thirty-six inches of one eighth steel flat (72 in. of 1/8 in.)

Drawing and Calculations

Written Crucible Tong Plans

Procedures

Preparation

Tools : Mig or Tig welder, saw blade, file

Pieces

Bar - Long Arm : 36" - Short Arm : 22" - Legs : 13" 13" - Top : 8" - Handle : 6" - Stop : 2" - Lock : 2" - Bottoms : 1" 1" - Spacers : 0.5" 0.5"

Flat - Angled : 5" 5" - Curved : 10" 10" 10" 10"

Marked the steel bars to be cut into the correct segments with the saw blade.

#1 bar : 36"

#2 bar : 22" 8" 1" 1" 0.5" 0.5"

#3 bar : 13" 13" 6" 2" 2"

#1 flat : 10" 10" 10"

#2 flat : 10" 5" 5"

Cut a 14 degree slant on the two 1" pieces. This is so a metal flat can be placed at an angle later.

Assemble the pieces to check for errors; I found out that I wanted the short handle to be a little shorter so I could grip the larger side. Edited down the short arm length from 26" to 22".

Sections of Metal

Halves

I used stands, clamps and levels to hold the metal in the right place for good welds. This description of welds will be crude because our own plan was to just following the pictures and looking at it set up seen in the clamp photo.

Clamp Side View

Clamp Top View

DISCLOSURE : If my design looks weird, maybe it's because I'm left handed and this seemed like the most comfortable set up for me.

Weld one of the 13" legs to the end left side of the 36" arm to form an L

Weld one of the 1" bottoms to the side of the bottom of the 13" leg facing inwards.

Weld one of the 5" bottom to the side of the 13" leg and the 1" bottom at the angle given by the slanted 1" bottom. Use crucible to check if adjustments are needed.

Weld the 2" stop bar under the long arm 18" from the handle end of the 36" long arm.

Weld the 8" top bar to the 13" leg on the 36" arm just above where the crucible sits.

Weld the other 13" leg to the top of the 22" short arm to form an L.

Weld the other 1" bottom on the opposite end and side of the bar of the 22" short arm on the 13 leg.

Weld the other 5" bottom to the side of the 13" leg and the 1" bottom at the angle given by the slanted 1" bottom. Use crucible to check if adjustments are needed.

Weld 6" handle onto the side of the 22" short arm so that if placed together with the spacing for the a10 crucible, there are two 6" handles at the end of the tongs.

Hinge and Claws

After assembling the halves, bend the 10" flats around a pipe with pliers for a loose curve. Two of these curved bars sit on the slanted bars attached to the legs on each half to hold the bottom of the crucible while the other two curved bars are placed higher up to hold the top of the crucible.

It is easier to curve the bars to the correct place on the crucible while the halves are together and must be bolted together to create a hinge.

To the create the hinge with a bolt, place the crucible inside of the halves and squeeze them around the crucible. Mark the location of a good fit, remove the crucible and readjust the halves the same way when the crucible was inside.

Tape the halves together so the hole can be drilled through all at once. Mark a 1/4 in. hole through the side of the halves and drill through both the short and long arm.

Place a washer on each side of the halves and one in between and then twist the bolt in and cap it off with a nut. Cut off the excess of the bolt.

While we're at the drill press, drill another 1/4 in. hole through the top of the long arm and through on of the 2 in. bar piece to create a hinge for the locking mechanism; a swiveling bar out of a bolt, small washers and a nut. This locks the moving arm in place so it can't open during transport.

Place the crucible in the loose claws and hold it in there while the end of the claws are pressed in by a vice that slowly curves the flat steel bars around the crucible. Cut off excess metal if need. Be careful not to squeeze and crack the crucible. Leave a tiny bit of room for expansion.

Clean up welds with a file. So. Much. Filing.

Set Up

So all in all they turned out pretty good. They hold the crucible firmly and I can handle placing the crucible in and out of the furnace even with a hunk of aluminum in it; it still need to cut this chunk down but it's a good practice weight. I will be applying rubber handles on the end of the arms for extra protection.

Demonstrating Custom a10 Crucible Tongs

Fully Assembled Crucible Tongs

Tongs Gripping Crucible

I'm going back after spring break to apply high-temperature, anti-corrosive paint for my burner, forge and crucible tongs. I'm thinking about going black for the lid and tongs while making the furnace body orange. Working on my box moulds and air blower for the forge at the moment. Should I post this to r/MetalCasting as well?

I’ll be editing periodically to correct errors and fix formatting. I’m new to Reddit and metal casting.

Cheers!

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thechhajed · 1 year

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