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ronaldbosieyiii · 6 years

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Installing Shop Fans – Big Ass Fans

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With it coming up on the holidays, things are winding down for me in the shop. I’ll be taking off a little bit of time to regroup from my extremely busy year and spend time with family…..It occurred to me earlier today that I built a 4,000 sqft shop this year, which is just incredable. It seems like it was so long ago. 2018 has been outstanding and I hope you’ve enjoyed coming along with me this year as I tackled a large assortment of projects. I wish you all a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. But one last video for the year. As I was looking through footage I realized I installed fans earlier this summer in the shop but never released the video covering the process. So lets jump into it.

Fans I installed:

Big Ass Fans

Haiku Big Ass Fans

I installed two different kinds, inside the shop I installed a giant Big Ass Fan in the center of my woodworking space and four smaller Hakui fans on the covered porch.

If you aren’t familiar with the Big Ass Fan brand, they make crazy efficient and stunning looking equipment. If you watched the shop build you’ll remember that I installed their lights. Since I wanted to place this 7’ diameter fan in the center of my woodworking space, I first started by taking out the light that marked center of my ceiling then also removing a few ceiling panels where the fan would need to go.

This size of fan requires a mount to be fabricated that will span across the bottom cord of two trusses which is why I’m having to take down the ceiling panels to expose the bones. If you don’t want or require such a large fan there are models that will allow you to attach the fan to one truss which would mean you wouldn’t have to expose the trusses.

I fabricated my mount from two pieces of angle iron backed up to one another. I first cut them to the length needed to span two trusses then joined them together by drilling a hole dead center for a nut and bolt, using my Triton Super Jaws and a pair of vise grips to hold them in place for me. I repeated the steps in order to make two brackets at the same time.

After getting those punched I moved the pieces down to the ground, separated them, and drilled two holes on the flat portion that will be sitting on the truss.

With those together now I grabbed the hardware that will attach to these mounts in order to hang the fan from. I positioned it in center and marked the location of the holes that needed to be drilled out. When punching through metal I always work up to the final size hole if it’s somewhat large. So for these I start off with punching a 1/4” hole, then step up to the final 1/2” size which is the bolt I’m using.

Once I got those tighter I ran the wiring through the center tube for the electrical bits then dropped that down in the center of the mount. Now it was ready to set into place. To keep it from moving I temporarily clamped it in place while I crawled up top and attached it with lags to the bottom cord of the trusses.

Something I really love about this fan is the wall mounted remote, it’s more of a speed indicator as it not only turns the fan off and on but also dictates how fast or slow it spins.

I didn’t want to run the wiring on the outside of my ceiling material so that meant I had to crawl up into the attic….let me remind you this during the heat of summer!….and get into the tiny tiny point on the far side of the roof in order to feed down the wire to Brian. My recommendation is if you are building a shop, even if you don’t install fans at the start, leave yourself a wire from where you’ll eventually want the controller to the placement of the fan. Just coil it up and leave it in the attic so you don’t have to do all this crawling around.

Alright, next up was mounting the motor into place, which might take two people because it’s pretty heavy.

Next up was mounting the airfoils. These do come in different diameters but mine are 3’ long, which including the center hub span, makes this fan 7’ total. And let me tell you….it’s crazy how much air this fan can move, and also how still and quiet it is. Even when I crank it up all the way you don’t hear any sounds from it other than the air itself moving.

And that’s it for the installation part of the big fan, so next was throwing back up the ceiling panels that were taken down earlier. To get around the fan’s stem I used a rotary tool to make a cut around it.

While I was mounting fans, next I moved to the porch. I love working on my covered shop porch when the weather is nice enough so having the option to get some moving air out there was a must for me. For this area I’m going with a smaller Big Ass Fan called Haniku. These fans have over 1000 options for finishing combinations but I went with Carmel and Black to match the cedar beams I have on the porch.

These fans are ultra quick to assemble. It was honestly as simple as attaching the fan blades, attaching the center tube with the wiring in it, then adding both hubs that keeps the top and bottom ends of the tube looking nice once it’s mounted.

Haiku has won more than 75 international design and technology awards and one thing they strive for and hit, is ensuring their fans don’t wobble. I found out they have a 13 step process to hand balance each fan so you won’t have to be distracted by the repeated off balance rhythm so many fans make.

After I mounted the bracket on the ceiling where I wanted the fan, I placed the ball into the socket, that’s what I’m describing it as at least, and turned it on. These fans also come with a remote and allow you to control the speed. Ha we were laughing because there is an actual “whoosh” button : )

Also, big high five on not only the quality of the fans, but also the instructions, and even making the remote magnetic. Just from head to toe, from aesthetics to function, everything on these products screens thought, effort, and quality.

If you’re looking at mounting fans in the shop or even in your house I can’t recommend these enough. They are highly efficient, exceeding the Energy Star requirements for ceiling fans, extremely quiet, and have a customizable look for every space.

If you’d like some of your own, check out the Big Ass Fan website here.

And while you’re checking things out, check out April Wilkerson merch here.

Ok, that’s it for 2018! Not only was I able to build my shop this year, I was able to put a big dent in my to-do list for outfitting and personalizing it. And that’s a great feeling. Thanks for coming along.

I’ll see you in 2019.

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ronaldbosieyiii · 6 years

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Asphalt Maintenance is Key to Happy Customers in 2019!

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ronaldbosieyiii · 6 years

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DIY Insulated Dog House

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Things I Used in This Project: ISOtunes Bluetooth Hearing Protection Titebond III Wood Glue Miter Saw Stand Plan Miter Saw Infinity Table Saw Blade Infinity Miter Saw Blade Woodpeckers Speed Square Armor Tool Pocket Hole Jig Woodpeckers Straight Edge Woodpeckers 12″ Square Triton Track Saw Brad Nailer Titebond Thick and Quick

When my dogs aren’t with me in the shop, they are hanging out on the wrap around porch which has plenty of shade, is out of the rain, and always has a great breeze. During the summer it’s awesome because they stay cool but during the winter it’s hard for them to get warm. So this week I built them a dog house with the purpose of giving all three of them a place to get away from the wind and snuggle up. Let me show you how I did it.

This will be an insulted dog house so instead of going with my first instinct which was a plywood body, I went with more of a framing design made from 2x4s ripped in half. I first sent the 2x4s through my table saw to take off the rounded edges on both sides, then readjusted the fence and cut them directly in half.

After getting them cut to width I then cut everything to length at the miter saw.

I started by constructing what will be the two sides, coming up a few inches on a few pieces to give the house some small feet and get it up off the ground. Again, mine will be under a porch and should be kept dry but just incase.

I’ll be using pocket holes to join things together and I’m very excited to introduce a new jig to hit the market that has some really great features.It’s the Armol Toos Pocket Hole Jig. Right off the bat they made the deck of the jig the same height as a 2×4 so it’s easy to create side support feeds. Of course I don’t need them in this instant but this will come in handy. So on a traditional pocket hole jig you have three things to adjust, the drill block, the clamping tension, and the drill bit collar….on this jig all of those things are self adjusting so all you have to do is stick in your material. If you want to go from 1 1/2” to 3/4” you just clamp the new material into place and you see everything automatically adjusts for you. You can use the onboard Allen key to tighten down on the drill bit collar then you’re ready to go. If you want to double check, there are indication markings on the side annnnd they are color coordinated to the length of screw you need for that thickness of material. Pretty sweet if you ask me.

After getting all the pocket holes drilled, I started attaching things. Even though this house shouldn’t ever see moisture it will be outside so I went ahead and used Titebond III wood glue since it’s a waterproof glue.

After getting one side assembled, I repeated the process to create another. Next I started working on the front panel, first cutting everything to size, drilling in pocket holes, then gluing and screwing it in place. This design is very easy to adjust depending on your size of dog. Since I have three and they all like to snuggle up together, I made this one long enough to fit three of their beds but still give them room to get around one another.

After getting the door in place, I thought I should double check to see if they could comfortably fit. With that test passed, I moved on to attaching the back panel. Moving things to the floor to have more working room.

Next up was a floor, but before putting in the decking material I threw in some insulation. This comes in a big 4×8 sheet and is 3/4” thick. Since my framing is 1 1/2” thick I cut two panels per opening and doubled filled up the cavity. I would use a straight edge and a box blade or my pocket knife to cut it out, then stuck it in place.

Once the bottom was full I measured and cut some plywood to deck it. I ended up cutting this piece in half to make getting it into place a little easier and I just made sure to cut it in the center so I could join the seam to the floor joist.

And now more insulation for the walls! To make this step easier I would cheat and set the panel directly on top of the foam then just trace the shape I was needing. If you’re working alone, you can set the insulation on the floor so you have less travel distance to move the entire house. I would line one of the straight edges up to the edge of the insulation then trace the rest, cut it then stick it in place. I was originally thinking I would need to glue these panels in place but the friction fit was so snug I skipped the glue all together. Oh and just a reminder this insulation has foil backing on both sides so if you want to use your table saw to cut it down, and have a SawStop then just be sure to put it in bypass mode or it will tip right away.

The set in place and tracing method worked so well I next repeated it for the siding! For the siding I’m going with beadboard. This stuff is a huge pain to paint but it does give it some good texture and it’s pretty lightweight, only being 3/8” thick. As you can see I dragged the full sheet over to my work area, then set flipped around the house in order to trace all the sides. If you do this of course just make sure a horizontal reference is squared up to the headboard so your panel doesn’t come out wonky looking.

After getting the sides traced I used my tracksaw to cut all the shapes out then Titebond III and brad nails to stick it in place. I started by attaching the two side panels so that when I cut and attached the front and back, the edges of the side panels would be covered up.

On the front panel, I went ahead and covered up the opening to the dog house with the bead board, but then after getting it secured in place I used a large drill bit to punch a hole through. Then I used a router and a flush trim bit to perfectly cut out the opening. If you don’t have a router then you can also use a jigsaw or even a reciprocating saw to do this.

Now moving on to the roof. Since the dog opening is muuuuch smaller than me, I wanted to make the roof into an access panel to the inside so I decided to make it hinged. This will allow me to easily grab the beds to wash, check for snacks, or anything else. I decided to use the left over beadboard I had from the siding to create this roof and also decided to split it into two doors instead of just a single. This is fine for mine since it will live under a covered porch but if you plan to place your house in the rain then keep it as a single panel so rain won’t drip through the seam.

Before attaching things, I set the roof panels aside and gave everything a coat of paint. Like I said before, beadboard is not fun to paint because it takes two forms of application. I would first use a roller to get all the flat surfaces, but then used a brush to get into all the valleys. Looking back on it, I should have used my sprayer, that would have saved me a ton of time, but oh well. For the body I am going with a grey and while it was drying, I also grabbed what will be the trim boards and threw a coat of paint onto them as well to be drying. Instead of white, I’m going with a light grey.

While those were drying, I started attaching the roof panels. I started by centering and squaring up the panels to the body. Once I had it just so, I used a pencil to trace the underside of the panels. This line indicates the outside of the body, but since I want to also insulate the roof I needed to know where the inside of the body fell on these panels. With the framing being 1 1/2” thick, I grab something that was 2” thick, which just happened to be a level, and used this to mark the inside line. Now that I had this reference I could measure the area inside and cut a piece of insulation to size. To attach these panels Im’ using a multi surface glue made by Titebond called Thick and Quick. Since I could use brads to hold it in place while that dried, I grabbed an assortment of tools and just weighted it down for a bit.

While that was setting up to dry I started working on the trim. I ripped down my 1x boards I had painted earlier then started cutting them to length and attaching them. Glue doesn’t stick very well to painted surfaces so learn from my mistake and leave the top edge of your body unpainted to give you a clean surface to glue to.

I’m again starting on the edges of the house so that the front and back trim will cover up the end grain of the side trim. I also always cheat on trim. Instead of measuring and cutting I typically just hold the board in place and mark the back side.

By this time the insulation was well past stuck in place so I first attached a portion of paino hinge to the underside then crawled inside the house and attached it to the body. And I should have seen it coming but to be honest I didn’t think about it when I was working the design….but the door actually has a built in stop with the overhang on the back end. So that’s convient. : )

Nice, that works nicely. After getting one secure, I repeated on the second. I used the Tounge and groove feature of the beadboard to make the seam in the middle disappear. This is great except when I tried to lift up one without the other, it was running into each other and prevented it. To fix this issue I grabbed my multi tool and just notched out a small portion in the back so that I could open one and give it clearance to pass up the other. There we go, now it’s working correctly.

Next I did all the finish painting to the inside, the underside of the roof, and any other exposed wood. Now when I was trimming around the door I left the top piece of trim long so I could hang something cute and special. I used my CNC machine to cut out a cut little paw print and instead of just glueing this to the side, I instead added a small hook to the overhung trim and the paw so that I could hang it and there would be a slight swing to it. Hehe, I think the dogs will appreciate the marking.

I thought I was done but the roof was really bothering me with how thin it looked compared to everything else. So I ended up ripping some 1/2” plywood and adding a small strip around the primereter of the underside of the roof. This just bulks up the look some and I think makes it looks better.

And that’s it! Now the pups have a place they can crawl inside to get out of the wind that’s always present on our hill. They can all be together which will make them happy, but still have room to get around one another. Also, I have a way to peak in at them to make sure they aren’t staying up late and ordering pizza.

So a few followers on my Instagram page were mentioning their dogs would tear up the exposed insulation on the inside. Mine don’t chew or scratch things up, but if yours do then I would certainly recommend adding a layer of thin sheeting to the inside as well. Don’t forget I have a set of plans for this build in the plans section of this website.

That’s it for this one, I hope you enjoyed it.

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ronaldbosieyiii · 6 years

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Building Swing Out Stools + 3 Legged Stools

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Things I Used in This Project: Woodpeckers Speed Square Woodpeckers Straight Edge Woodpeckers 12″ Square Bandsaw ISOtunes Bluetooth Hearing Protection 3″ Sander RIDGID Round Shop Vac Universal Small Port Hose Kit Dust Right Separator Titebond Original Wood Glue Rockler Surefoot Clamps Triton Router Infinity Spiral Bit Carpet Tape Triton Router Table Infinity Round Over Bit Spray Lacquer

I am starting off the with the three legged stool that goes all the way to the ground. These are made from 3/4” plywood and kinda have a spoke sort of design to support the legs. A smaller spoke at the very top that connects all three but will also give me a flat surface to attach the base to the seat later on. Then another, larger spoke down the legs to support the base some and also give my feet a place to rest.

I took the time to 3D model the stool first so I knew exactly how big I needed to make everything, then use a few woodpeckers measuring and marking tools to draw it out on good size cut off of 3/4” ply. However, if you are interested in making your own, I do have a free download for both spokes available here.

Once I had the spoke drawn out, I took it to the bandsaw to cutout. If you want to make more than one stool, I recommend cutting material for the number you want, then taping them all together with painters tape. This way you can cut the pattern once but make the total number of spokes you need with it.

Next I took the left over cut off to the table saw and cut a few legs. Since I want the legs kicked out like this instead of straight up and down, I used a speed square to mark off a 10 degree angle on both the top and bottom, then again used the bandsaw to cut these angles out. If you do this, I recommend grabbing the miter gauge and setting it to 10 degrees so you can get a straight cut rather than pushing it through my hand.

Then last cutting detail for the legs is I added a small taper so the top of the leg would be chunkier than the bottom. After coming in at the bottom, I used a straight edge to connect it to the top and also cut it out using the bandsaw. Now you can see the slight taper this gives the legs.

Alrighty now to clean these parts up. I moved my new dust collection cart over to my workbench, hooked up shop vac, flipped my belt sander on it’s back, then started smoothing out the edges on all my parts.

I originally thought I would paint or stain these bases a dark brown because I honestly want the seats to be the focus. However, I really started to dig the look of these plywood parts and decided to leave them as raw looking as possible. But before moving into finish I stuck a round over bit into my router table and ran each part through.

And that’s the majority of the project done. This is a super quick one but looks great in my opinion. If you’re needing seating for a bar area, garage, or shop then don’t put it off because you can easily knock this out in a single day.

For assembly, I started off with the smaller spoke at the very top, and placed Titebond original in all the cut outs, then shimmied the legs one by one into their spot.

After getting all three in, I repeated with glue and placement of the larger spoke. I placed this one at a height that was comfortable for my feet to be propped up on. After getting it roughly where I intended it, I use a small level to make sure it was level across all three legs. Checking to make sure my workbench was level first, before using it as a reference for the spoke.

After letting those sit up over night to dry I went ahead and took my belt sander to each top just to clean it up a bit and make sure it was nice and flat.

Then last thing before attaching the seats, I cleaned off each one and gave them four coats of spray lacquer. This hardly changes the tint or shade of the plywood so it stays that raw look I was going after, but does give it some protection.

With the seats being made from solid wood, I didn’t want to just screw the base directly into it, and I was planning on using those Z clip or figure 8 fasteners but a buddy suggested I drill an oversize hole through the base for the screw to pass through, then add a washer to the head. The trick is you don’t want to over tighten the screw so that the washer can’t move. By only tightening down enough for the seat to be secure but allowing the washer to move freely, the seat can move if the wood wants to. I liked this method as it meant I didn’t have to wait on ordered hardware so I tried it out.

That’s one! And I must say, they feel pretty darn secure and I was/am really happy with the way they came out. I honestly never would have thought I would end up liking the raw plywood base look as much as I do. Next I repeated until all four were secured and sittable.

With those knocked out, lets get to the more complicated but fun one shall we? For the four remaining seats I switched gears completely and made some swing out swiveling shop seats that have a supersized speed square design as the support. That’s 9 Ss if you weren’t counting. ; )

I thought of a speed square only because the shape lends itself so perfect for the supportive base. I recently added a 4×8 Laguna CNC to my shop ….I’ll be putting out a stand alone video on that soon, so stay tuned for lots of details.

Since I wanted the speed square to be two tone, I first painted a section of plywood silver then after it was dry, taped off the silver portion before setting the machine to carve out four squares.

Each seat is made up of two that will be glued together. Once the engraving pass was complete I spray painted the markings black then set the machine to cut out the empty spaces and perimeter.

After getting the squares cut I then had the tedious task of pealing off the tape. I thought this would come off in a few big pieces and have this awesome reveal for y’all, but it didn’t. So I’ll skip to the end and show you the results. Pretty cool huh??

Like I said earlier, each seat is made up of two squares glued together so next I applied glue to the inside face and set weights on it until dry.

Next up was making a flange that will rest on the top of the square assembly to give a flat surface for me to later mount the seat to. This is also made from 3/4” plywood, and I started by cutting a wide board at the tabelsaw then using a square to mark the center of the board so I could cut in a stop dado wide enough for the square assembly to snuggly fit into.

Since I didn’t want this dado to go all the way from one side of the board to the other, I set up a straight bit in my router table to make this cut. I clamped a scrap into place on my router fence to act as a stop for my workpiece, then also set the fence’s depth away the blade so the dado would start where I needed it. After a few passes I got to the width I was needing to slip the square snuggly into place.

So far so good but lets refine it a little bit. Instead of having just a big rectangle, this stop dado dies off in a curve that will later be used as a pivot point. Then I also marked off the sides so I could remove the bulk wood here and slim down the profile in order to create kinda pedestal on the end where the seat will later go. After marking off a shape I liked, I took it to the bandsaw to cut out. Moving the fence to the distance needed to get a nice straight cut.

While at the bandsaw, I also taped together some small pieces and made the same rounded shape that I did on the end of the stop dado portion to create some reinforcement pieces for the pivots points. I glued these parts together to be drying while I moved on to cleaning up all the parts I just made, on the belt sander.

Then it was time to start assembling, For this I’m using Titebond original once again, since this seat is inside. I applied glue to all the dados then started sticking the pieces in their place. First placing on the top flange with the seat mount, then the back portion then the doubled up pivots. I stuck that in clamps the best I could, then set it aside to start drying.

While I was waiting on that, I started cutting and build a mating mount that would attach to my workbench leg and give me a way to connect this square assembly to. This is also made from plywood, but I’m thinking of doing another rendition in the future where I keep the wooden square but make the rest from metal.

After getting the first portion of the mount glueing up, I took the down time to start painting the square assembly. I painted the entire frame black then the rest of the speed square parts silver. And just a tip for you: when only working with a rattle can paint but not wanting to take the time to tape off anything and everything that doesn’t need to get painted, I grabbed a foam brush and sprayed some directly on it then dabbed it on. This has saved my neck a few times and works really well.

I let the paint dry then used this finished assembly to mark off where on the bench mount I needed to place the second pivot point. I did it this way because I wanted to make sure it was the tightest fit as possible. Once I had the location of the second tabs sorted, I added a few more reinforcement pieces then set it in clamps to dry before throwing on a coat of paint so it would match the other.

Alright, now it was time to drill holes for all the hardware going in this thing. I’ll be using a piece of all thread at the pivot point so I started by drilling these holes. The important thing here is that these holes on in line with one another so I used some simple wooden block as a drill guide. Also, I do recommend drilling these at a drill press but mine was giving me issues and I didn’t want to stop and mess with it so I did these by hand.

Next I drilled holes through the back and these will be for the bolts to connect it to the workbench leg. After getting these drilled through the wooden mount, I clamped it to the workbench and drilled the same holes through the leg. I placed this on the inside of the leg so that the seat could fold up under the bench when I’m not using it and be completely out of the way.

Now onto all the hardware, like I said before I’m going with a piece of all thread to connect everything and create a pivot. There are also some nuts, washers, and bolts thrown in there. Oh and just a tip if you do this, I would chuck this up in a drill and use it’s power to help get the rod all the way through the pieces.

Next I mounted it to my workbench then tested it out. You can probably imagine, it was prreeety nerve wracking sitting on it the first time. Ok….things held together so I moved forward with mounting a seat on it!

I order some swivels so the seat would rotate independently from the base itself. I first attached this to the mount with some screws and washers, then set he seat in place, and attached it to the underside. And that’s it!

Oh and on this second one, you’ll see it’s mounted on the end of the workbench instead of the long side like the other….that’s because the apron under the workbench is so much lower on this side, my knees would have been knocking into it. Which is fine, now I’ll have a seat I can use on the end as well as the long side.

I love the way this project turned out, I think it’s fun and pretty darn cool. Overall the seats do feel good, but of course they haven’t experienced much use yet so we’ll see how well they hold up. If they end up failing then I’m going to explore making the mounting portion out of metal instead of wood. Of course if I make modifications I will be sure to bring a camera along to show y’all. april, April wilkerson, DIY, diy project, diy projects, diy shop project, diy stool, do it yourself, female builder, female carpenter, female woodworker, home improvement, how to, how to build, saw blade storage, Scrap wood, Scrap wood projects, shop project, triton tools, Wilker Dos, wilkerdos, woman builder, women who build, wood, wooden stool seat, woodshop stool, woodworking project, woodworking shop, workshop stoolI’ll see you on my next project.

I have a fresh batch of plywood mallets now listed on my website. If you’d like to pick one up for your shop, then check those out here

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ronaldbosieyiii · 6 years

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Building Custom Stool Seats from Scrap Wood

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Things I Used in This Project: ISOtunes Bluetooth Hearing Protection Ultimiate Workbench Plans CrossCut Sled Titebond Original Wood Glue Rockler Surefoot Clamps Triton Router Infinity Spiral Bit Carpet Tape Triton SuperJaws Large Compass Large ROS Palm ROS Triton Router Table Infinity Round Over Bit Infinity Chamfer Bit Push Blocks Bench Cookies Dust Collection Cart RIDGID Round Shop Vac Universal Small Port Hose Kit Dust Right Separator Wipe On Poly

These seats are actually something I’ve been wanting to tackle for a while. They are inspired by a fabulous NY based furniture maker named Ethan Abramson. He has these stools he builds that he calls Maze Stools, that are made from different woods and have a very random yet elegant look to them. With Matt Cremona and I only having a single day to knock something out, I figured it was the perfect project. I also thought it would be cool to incorporate a scrap from Matt’s shop so I told him to toss something into his suitcase for me. Of course, it being Matt he brought me a beautiful piece of airdried walnut that he milled himself.

To get started we rounded up some other cut off of hardwoods from my lumber rack. I had two good chunks of walnut then found some maple and Matt found some small pieces of curley maple. We divided them up then started playing with our designs. The great thing about this project is there is no right or wrong, mine is pretty simple whereas Matt went a little crazier with his, even throwing some end grain into the mix.

Since we are dealing with scraps, almost all the boards are different thicknesses. Later we will plane our seats down but right now I just got the boards close by resawing them at the bandsaw.

I was aiming for my seat to be around 14” so while I was building up mine I would use a tape just to make sure I was getting the weigh and height needed on the initial build up. Once that looked good, I started playing with adding more to the design. I wanted a strip of maple across the top so I grab a thinner strip, placed it where it looked good and used a pencil to mark on the bottom walnut, it’s location. Then I took it over to the table saw and cut along these pencil marks. This allowed to insert the maple strip where I removed the material.

With the general arrangement of our seats figured out, we started on the first glue up. Since I don’t yet have a jointer, we used my crosscut sled at the table saw to get the glueing edges nice and flat then started clamping things together. This part is a little funky because lots of things are cut at angles so they want to slip and slide once you start applying pressure with the clamps. But! We both played with it enough and got things to hold together.

After letting that set for an hour or so, we unclamped our pieces and started cleaning up the edges for round two. On mine, I just cut the left side flush so I could add another board Maple to the edge. Then Matt cut his slides flush to add more walnut and curley maple to both sides.

After letting round two glue ups dry, Matt attached the adjustable circle cutting router base to the router, then we turned these funky little creations into circles. You can see we placed a spoil board below the seat just to protect my new workbench top, then used carpet tape which is a strong double sided tape, to hold down the seat. Matt’s glue up was a tad bit smaller than mine so he went with a smaller diameter for his seat. We used a spiral upcut bit made by Infinity to make this cut, and since it’s pretty thick we took three passes to cut all the way though.

One tip to remember if you do this project is to attach your seat upside down, so that what will end up being the top of the seat is facing the workbench. This will make the screw hole from attaching the router in the bottom where it will be unseen instead of the top.

With that done, next we moved the seats and the SuperJaws outside because next step was to dish out the seat some. For this we were using my power carvers with the sanding attachment on them. To give a visual reference to follow, we used a compass to pencil on an offset line then just started sanding away material.

And I’m curious on what other methods there are for dishing out seats that might be quicker. Although this process wasn’t too bad. Matt only took about 15 mins to get his dished, then enjoyed the nice Texas weather while I took a little bit longer to complete mine.

Anyways, back to the project…..next we cleaned up the dish and also the edges with the palm ros sander. Or well, I used the sander, Matt used the spokeshave. Which I think proves power tools and hand tools can be friends. Just sayin….

Before applying finished, we took our seats over to the router table and used a 1/2” round over bit to round off the top edge. This not only looks a little nicer but will also make it feel nicer on the back of the legs when actually using the seat. Then something I did on mine is I placed a small chamfer on the bottom edge of the seat.

After he signed the bottom, he applied two coats of Danish oil. And my goodness that’s pretty.

Matt and I actually made these back in August and two seats is just not enough for my shop. So I decided to make some more, but I loved the concept of including scraps from friends and having a piece of them in the shop. So for the past few months, if I knew I would be seeing a friend, I would tell them to toss a scrap into their luggage for me and I’ve come away with quite the haul. I ended up with enough to make at least six more stools so that’s what I did.

I mixed and match the pieces to get a modge podge sort of look, but I also tried to maintain good aestics with color coordinating. One thing I didn’t pay any mind to is grain direction. Wood of course expands and contracts so typically you want to keep the grain all going the same way so it moves together and doesn’t bust apart, but these pieces are so small I don’t think it will create an issue. But hey, we’ll see. The two Matt and I made this summer are still looking perfect if that’s any indication.

Something I made this go round to help with visualizing is a cardboard cutout. I used 14” as a template then could place this ring over my working piece to see if I liked the direction it was going or where on the board I wanted the circle placed.

You can see that I placed a small sheet of wax paper under each one of my glue ups, this is just to keep me from gluing it down to my workbench. : ) Each seat had at least two glue ups, if not three but since I was building so many I was easily able to keep busy making another while things were drying.

Of course this is a really great project to use up some smaller scraps but I think this would be a really fun group project. Call up some woodworker friends, everybody bring one or two pieces of wood and gather in somebody’s shop (whoever has the most clamps) then spend the day building a seat for your space while enjoying friends company then everybody gets to leave with a momento that’s useable.

It’s really cool to look them all at the end and see just how varied each one can be. It’s also funny to see what they look like after all the glue ups….at this point I was thinking “hmmmm, these are funky to say the least”. But I will tell you that after cutting them down into a circle, they look muuuuuch better.

Now since I had so many, I used double sided tape to temporarily secure all of them down to my workbench and this made going over each one with my sander a little bit quicker rather than placing them one by one into my SuperJaws.

Next up, will be making some bases to go with these tops. I have a pretty fun idea I can’t wait to try out, so stay tuned for my next video to see them complete. Big thank you to my friends and viewers who contributed a scrap for these seats.

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ronaldbosieyiii · 6 years

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Dust Collection Cart – Shop Vac and Separator Storage

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Toting around my shop vac and my separator anytime I want to use dust collection with my power tools is such a pain, so this week I built this cart to simplify things for me.

Things I Used in This Project: RIDGID Round Shop Vac RIDGID Square Shop Vac: Dust Right Separator ISOtunes Bluetooth Hearing Protection Universal Small Port Hose Kit Sketch Up Hercules Dolly Ultimiate Workbench Plans Triton Track Saw Cord Reels Right Angle Clamp It Jigs Titebond Original Wood Glue Woodpeckers 12″ Square Rockler Surefoot Clamps Infinity Table Saw Blade Infinity Insert Plate 4″ Belt Sander 3″ Belt Sander Palm Belt Sander Large ROS Palm ROS Sand Paper Cutter

If you’re new to this hobby then a quick overview for you is: breathing in dust is bad. One way to control it is to hook a shop vac directly to your tool when you’re using it. This sends all the dust through the filter of the shop vac and the shop vac collects it.

A great add on to this set up is a cyclone or a separator. I have the Dust Right Separator where I hook up a hose to my tool that feeds into the separator, then the separator feeds into the shop vac. This separator collects the majority of the saw dust that I create, leaving only the finer saw dust to go through the filter of the vac and be collected.

This is my preferred set up. However, getting back to the irritation, it’s a pain to haul both of these individual units around the shop to where I’m working. So this week I designed a storage solution to simplify it.

I decided to go ahead and upgrade my shop vac while I was building something. I’ll be using a RIDGID 12 gallon 5hp wet/dry vac. It’s pretty much the same height as my separator.

I played around with designs and decided to make a taller cart than I originally planned, with a smaller footprint. This is an option with the units stacked, with the hose going straight out from the vac up to the separator. I still had room for the sanders on the left and the ROS’s on the right, but then broke up the sandpaper storage to go on both sides in order to make it all fit.

Having these design changes and options is exactly why I love taking the time to model my projects before starting. Ok now that you see what I’m going after, lets build it.

I’m building it from one sheet of 3/4” plywood so I started by wheeling a sheet over to my workbench and breaking it down with my track saw.

Once I had things at a more manageable size, I took those sheets over to the table saw and broke them down to their final size. And just a tip for you: whenever I’m working off a cultist, after I cut a piece to size I label the edge so I won’t get it mixed up with the other parts of the build.

To start joining things together I grabbed the back and one of the sides then used the aid of these right angle clamp it jigs to hold both together at a 90. This makes it easy to go through and predrill then attach with screws. After getting one side attached, I repeated the process for the other side.

Next I flipped it on it’s back and attached the bottom. Oh and I’m using Titebond original for this project. Next I attached the shelf in the same manner. I first measured on where it needed to go then made marks on the front and back on both the side pieces. Before securing it with screws, I also use a square just to make sure everything looked good. Once I had the two front corners pinned, I used the square to draw a line down center so I could pre drill and screw the back of the shelf into place. After repeating on the other side, I quickly attached four casters to the bottom to make this unit mobile, then set it on the ground to test out.

Separator goes on top, shop vac on bottom. The hose as well as all the attachments have a quick connect feature which will make not only connecting the hose but also disconnecting it to clean out the vac, quick and easy.

I thought I would have to build in some holders to store the vac attachments but RIDGID actually incorporated a storage method in the feet! So that’s handy and saves me a step.

Now the reason the separator is on the top is because it’s the portion that is connected to my power tool and I wanted it to have the ability for it to pivot around along with me instead of being confined inside the lower cubby. That’s also the reason I left it on casters. To keep it from falling off the shelf however, I placed a front lip in between the two sides. And you can see that if this end is connected to my tool, I can go pretty much anywhere and the separator will rotate around with me instead of me having to rotate the cart.

The shop vac comes with these handy hose holders with the intention of giving you an onboard place to store it away when you aren’t using it. However, since it isn’t needed on the vac in my case, I repurposed them to hold my smaller hose from the separator instead of just tossing it inside the top compartment. This will keep the hose conveniently placed for easy grab and use.

I’m not incorporating any extra hose storage on my unit because I use this Rockler small port hose kit….which is a flex hose that is a stock diameter but comes with thread-on connections that are interchangeable. So instead of swapping out the entire hose to fit different ports on my tools, I just switch out the thread ons.

Ok let me pause and explain my thinking for this next part: I most often pull out the shop vac and separator when I’m running one of my five sanders and in most projects I never just use one. Instead of making lots of trips to grab my sanders from my French cleat tool wall, then having to put them back, I decided to place all my sanders on this cart. So that’s what I did next. Since I already built holders for these tools it was as simple as grabbing them off my wall and placing a cleat on the side of the cart.

My buddy Jay Bates built a similar cart for a vac and separator a few years ago but he went with a much lower profile body. So if you aren’t interested in all the side storage then I recommend checking out his plan here.

Since I’m storing my sanders, I also wanted to keep some sort of sandpaper storage here. I grabbed a piece of 3/4″ plywood that was wide enough to make up both of my sides. I then changed out my dado stack for a 1/4″ stack and cut a bunch of grooves. After getting those cut, I changed back my blade to a single black and cut this board in two down the middle in order to create the two sides needed.

With the body done, I grabbed some 1/4″ scrap material, cut it to size and then glued them in place to make the shelves. After the glue dried, I did some sanding and then hung the sandpaper storage up. Instead of a French cleat on this one, I opted for pocket holes to keep the profile slim.

I was about ready to call this project done when I stumbled across a sandpaper cutter made by Rockler that I thought was so cool. So I put it up on my cart as well, next to my flat sandpaper. Now whenever I have a sheet of flat paper that needs to be torn to size for my sanding blocks, all I have to do is stick it into the holder, line up the side of the paper to the depth gauge, and then just rip it.

The last thing I included was a power strip. I originally wasn’t going to, I was just going to drill a hole in the back of the unit for the plug of the shop vac to pass through. However, I liked the idea of plugging the power strip into my cord reel, then being able to plug any of my sanders into the power strip instead of also having to run them to my cord reel. So main power comes in here, then I have plenty of outlets to run the tools that are being used with the shop vac cart.

This cart definitely simplifies moving both of these units around.

That’s it for this one. I hope this project helps you out. See you on the next build.

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ronaldbosieyiii · 6 years

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Business Owners, Fall Is the Season for Commercial Asphalt Repair!

Now that summer is behind us, and the region is beginning to prepare for the winter ahead, asphalt maintenance companies in Camden County and the surrounding areas are beginning to schedule commercial asphalt repairs before the harsh winter weather arrives. For property owners across the Northeast, winter weather can cause a variety of problems. When…

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ronaldbosieyiii · 6 years

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Chainsaw Mill: How to Slab Logs

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Things I Used:

ISOtunes Bluetooth Hearing Protection: http://amzn.to/2pEjNtv

Rancher 460 Chainsaw: https://amzn.to/2RjnVtw

Chaps: https://amzn.to/2ywcE1O

Helmet: https://amzn.to/2PXL9EW

24″ Chainsaw Mill: http://bit.ly/2CQC7WC

10′ EZ Rails: http://bit.ly/2P14AAh

Ripping Chain: http://bit.ly/2CV93h0

Ultimiate Workbench Plans: http://bit.ly/2LdT3Z0

Woodpeckers Square: https://amzn.to/2yD2c8J

Miter Saw: http://amzn.to/2tF5Azc

Miter Saw Stand Plans: http://bit.ly/2pwceVy

Infinity Miter Saw Blade: http://bit.ly/2xW1YvK

Electric Chainsaw Sharpener: http://bit.ly/2qjzh54

Chainsaw Mill Winch: http://bit.ly/2Q2cZjp

Triton SuperJaws: http://amzn.to/2qFLYJF

SuperJaw’s Log Jaws: http://amzn.to/2jh0oNM

Woodpeckers Slab Flattener: Will be available November 2018 so stay tuned

Triton 2 1/4 Router: http://amzn.to/2zRSdvF

Infinity 2″ Slab Flattening Bit: http://bit.ly/2Odk2Ee

Infinity Bit Extender: http://bit.ly/2EOXUAD

Last week I modified a trailer to go get some logs, this week I’ll be slabbing them up. As milling is an entire world of it’s own in the woodworking niche, I learned a crazy amount in just a few days and I’m going to try and cram as much of that information into this video as possible, so lets gets right to it.

There are two main methods for milling logs: a bandsaw mill like Matt Cremona’s…

…or a chainsaw mill. I’m going with a chainsaw mill…..for now. Tractor Supply is now a supplier of Husqvarna equipment and I’ve partnered with them to use the Rancher 460 chainsaw with a 24” bar on my mill. Note that the chainsaw you buy has specs on the longest bar it can support. So if you want to cut certain diameter logs, be sure to buy a saw that can support it.

I’m actually going to jump ahead because there are a lot of components to this one so let me show you the final outcome before I get into the details of each one.

The components are: the chainsaw of course. Next is the mill which is a railing system parallel to the chainsaw bar that guides you for a straight cut.

On your very first cut, you need a flat reference for the mill to ride along, which is what these rails here are.

Then something I put on mine but is optional is a winch. This is mounted to the mill then hooks up to this bar you see here.

Now that you see what I end up with, let get back to the beginning of putting it together. I started off with the rails that will go ontop of my logs to give my mill a flat reference for the first cut. You might have seen people use a ladder for this application before, but I went with rails made by the same company who made the mill I’ll be using which is a family owned business called Granberg. They are called EZ Rails and do come in a variety of different lengths but I went the 10’ rails which come in two 5’ sections that can be used separately or together. They have these cross bars with spikes and this is how the rails are attached to the log.

Next I switched out the stock chain on my chainsaw, which is a crosscut chain, to a ripping chain. Just like any other saw blades, the teeth are designed with a certain task in mind and if you are going to go from crosscutting to slabbing, you need to invest in a ripping chain. The teeth are filed to a steeper angle on ripping chains since it’s a much more aggressive cut since you are cutting along so many more growth rings lengthwise.

After getting the chain on and tighten down, I moved on to assembling the mill that goes around the chainsaw. This is the railing system that is parallel to the blade, and it can be raised or lower to determine the thickness of your slab. Since I have a 24” bar I went with the 24” mill from Granberg.

And just a fun fact, Elof Granberg, who started the company, designed the first Alaskan chainsaw mill back in the 60s. So anything milling related, the company has.

You can see that the chainsaw now fits right into the mill then tightens down on the bar to hold onto it.

Like I mentioned earlier, an add on I opted in for is a winch on the mill. This will drastically reduce the amount of work I manually have to do to get the saw through the piece of wood and I’ll show you how this works in a few mins.

First I want to set all that equipment aside and quickly build a log stand so I don’t have to cut these logs on the ground. Since I’ve never done this before I wasn’t sure what set up would be best, so I went with some 2x6s with a steep angle cut in at both ends on my miter saw, then a hole drilled in the center. I flipped them around to be opposite of one another then stuck in a bolt with a few washers and nuts. I used two nuts so that I could keep this joint pivoting which will make the stand foldable.

After repeating to make three the same, I lined them out, used a clamp to hold them in an open position with the feet flat on the floor, then placed another 2×6 to tie them together, and to also create a hard stop. A 2×6 was placed on both sides and now you can see it can fold up and be stored or transported, but then quickly deployed to be used. Depending on your length of logs, should determine how many of these Xs you include on your stand.

Ok! After all that assembly I was finally ready to get a log set on my stand and to start milling. Cody used the tractor to snatch onto a log on the trailer then set it in position. Now the log doesn’t have to be perfectly flat but the next step is easiest if it is somewhat flat, so I first started up my 460 and took off a high spot.

With this being the first cut, I started by placing my EZ Rails in place. Again, these will be the flat reference for my mill to get a straight first cut. I lined up the cross members so that the spikes, or dogs, would all land on the log then I hammered them in.

With it attached I next leveled up the rails. You don’t need them to be level along the length of the log, just across the log, I don’t know if you can see but there are two leveling screws at each one of these cross members to make this happen.

Then the last thing to attach is the winch’s anchor point. If used, this is attached to the end of the log so that it can peak up in between the two rails. And you can see here that once you start the saw and get the mill set on the rails, the winch cable goes from the reel to this anchor point then attaches back to the mill. This allows me to keep my left hand on the throttle of the saw, and my right hand on the winch to advance or back off on the cut.

A few things I want to say:

1) Beware folks because this is highly addictive. I want to slab up everything now to where if you stand still long enough in my shop, I’ll start attaching the rails to you!

2) This operation can be done alone but it’s kinda a lot and is sooo much easier if you have a second hand around. You’ll see Brain there cutting wedges for me and placing them as I get further into the log. This is to keep the slab from pitching your bar and binding.

3) I tried moving the mill along without the winch just to see the difference and I’ll say that the winch makes such a huge difference in how much effort is required. I 100% recommend it if you get into this.

After getting through my first cut (which took 6.5 mins btw), I set the top aside then started on the second cut. Now that the log has a flat reference along the top I no longer need the EZ Rails, I can just set the mill directly onto of my previous cut and start the process over again. The only thing I had to do before making this cut was to adjust the depth of my mill to the slab thickness I wanted. I set it for 2” then got after it.

I am really shocked at how quickly I was able to get through an entire cut, this second cut took me just under 5 mins to make. The main components for making that happen is much like any other cutting tool in the shop…..the right power source and a sharp edge. This Husquvarna had no issues chopping through this oak, mesquite, or even pecan which are all pretty hard woods. This work does use up the bar oil though, so make sure you are keeping an eye on your tank.

Now I won’t lie, I was pretty disappointed at this oak when I got a look inside. I was hoping this thing would be beautiful but the log was apparently pretty old and very dried out so the inside was really cracked and honestly not something I was interested in keeping. Looking back on it though, I think testing and tuning, getting things figured out on a junk log is a pretty good way to go. Like anything else you learn so much on your first go and I still had a blast.

I didn’t have any more long logs but my neighbor offered me a short pecan and mesquite log so I jumped at those to try next. You can see that instead of cutting the tops of my log stand down, I just shored up the bottom with some scraps. This is because I’m not yet sure what the average diameter of log I’ll be getting is, and I didn’t want to cut them too short but note that it is an alternative to filling up the bottom.

Something else I did when the log got smaller was use the log jaws in my Super Jaws. These are a set of jaws with blunted teeth specifically designed for grabbing onto logs. Oh and a helpful tip I got from Instagram is instead of placing the log level lengthwise, place it downhill so that gravity can help you when you are milling through.

As far as keeping things sharp, I sharpened my chain after every third pass which might be excessive but I’ll learn with time where the sweet spot is on sharpening. In the past I’ve always used a file to sharpen the teeth but Grandberg has this 12v electric sharpener that attaches right to the bar. It hooks up to a truck or car battery so I used the battery from the log snatching trailer to run it. Even if you don’t get into milling this sharpener is worth getting.

The last thing I had to slab up with this crotch piece of pecan, after making the first cut I stuck it in my super jaws to make the remaining cuts and just look at how cool this one came out!

The next step is to set the slabs aside to dry and a general rule is it takes one year for every inch of thickness. So a 2” slab should be left to dry for two years. For video sake, lets say it’s been two years and these are now dry and ready to be used to make something.

I’ll first need to flatten the slab. Since it’s much wider than a jointer the most popular method for flattening slabs is called a router sled. You can make a home made jig but my friends over at Woodpeckers Tools heard I was slabbing and asked me to try out their new slab flattener coming out later this year. If you are familiar with Woodpeckers then you’ll know they excel at precision which is exactly what a flattener needs to get the best results. Everything needs to be level and stay level to give you a perfect cut across your entire slab so you don’t have a lot, or any post clean up work to do. The jig has two long rails that I temporarily attached to my workbench, then it also has a sled that sits onto these rails. Inside this sled is where a router base is set so that it can slide up and down the length.

After taking my time to get everything set up, I positioned my slab and set the depth of my router bit to start removing material to flatten the slab. I’m using my Triton 2 1/4” Router since I have my larger 3 1/4” in my table. Then for a bit I’m using a 2” flattening bit and also a bit extender made by Infinity. If you don’t have this extender and you just have the bit in your router, it’s really common for the bit to run out of throw and not get down far enough to hit your slab.

With things set up you can see how it works. The router base moves along the sled then the sled moves along the rails. Allowing you to gradually move over the slab in order to flatten it. That is a wicked cool tool if you ask me.

If you have never flattened a slab before then here are a few things I learned from my experience.

When working with a piece that has a slight twist in it, you first need to shim it up and keep it stable to flatten it. I would find the two corners that were rocking then stick in a few wedges.

Next I set the bit according to the highest spot on the slab so that it starts off with removing the high spots. This means you aren’t removing material everywhere on the slab on the first pass. The objective is keep removing all of the high spots pass by pass until you are finally removing material from the entire slab, meaning it’s all on the same level and is flat.

I set the bit to take off about 1/8” material. Also remember that with a larger diameter bit, you will want to slow the speed of your router down. I have my router set to 2 out of 5. I start on one side of the slab, move the router across then bring it back. Once I bring it back I move the entire sled down the slab to advance the cut. And that’s it, it’s just a matter of repeating until I make it across the entire slab.

Once I get the slab down to where I’m removing material from everywhere evenly, I change the bit depth for a final smoothing pass. And this is to just to cut down on some of the marks left behind from the rough cuts, but honestly if you keep your bit sharp you’ll be amazed at how perfect the surface feels.

I hope you found this informative. I cant believe the mount of information I learned in just a week! And of course, now I cant wait until I have my own inventory of wood that I’ve milled up myself. Stay tuned for my next video which will be turning live edge slabs into furniture.

The post Chainsaw Mill: How to Slab Logs appeared first on Wilker Do's.

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ronaldbosieyiii · 6 years

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Building a Log Hauling Trailer

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Things I Used

ISOtunes Bluetooth Hearing Protection

Lincoln Power Mig

Welding Hood

Welding & Grinding Hood

Welding Jacket

Welding Gloves

Triton SuperJaws

Cordless Grinder

Corded Grinder

Metal Marking Pencil

Lincoln Torchmate

Lincoln Plasma Cutter

Triton 4″ Belt Sander

Maybe it’s because I now live in the country, or maybe it’s because I’ve been hanging around my buddy Matt Cremona too much….but I want to play around with milling some logs. I intend to build a chainsaw mill next week then tackle the giant Matt Cremona bandsaw mill in early 2019. Before that though, I need to modify a trailer so I have a way to go pick up logs and haul them home. That’s what I’m doing this week.

The premise is to make and attach an arch to the back of a trailer that can pivot forward and backwards. You connect a winch to the arch, then you can tilt it forward to grab onto something, then winch the arch back to pull it up and onto the trailer.

Now that you see what I’m going after, lets get into building it.

This project might seem big, and I suppose it is in size, but it’s actually a pretty simple build. Also, I’m using it in this case to haul around logs but it’s also worth mentioning that this design would be good for lifting and hauling anything that’s big and heavy that you can get a chain around. I personally have a lot of rocks on my place I’ll be going after next.

I started off by cutting the tubing I’ll use for the arch to length. I’m going with 1/4” material for almost this entire build. We don’t have the stellar tree diameters that you in the north do, but I still want to build this thing heafty so I’ll always have the power should the need arise.

For the mean time I only cut the four bottom parts of the arch. I didn’t want to weld the complete arch on my shop floor then the risk it not fitting exactly right on the trailer. So next I started prepping these parts to be welded. I started by sticking each one in my Triton SuperJaws and grinding in a bevel on all the edges that would be welded to another joint.

Then I moved the parts back down to my floor and stuck them together. I first tacked them into place then welded them close. For this project I’m using my Power Mig 210 MP Machine and if you’ve been wanting a welder it’s worth noting that this machine is currently on sale. You can save over $400 until November 8th, 2018 by using the promo code PM999 at check out over at LincolnElectric.com

Now Cremona has his arch mounted permanently to his trailer, but not yet knowing how often I’ll use mine, I wanted the arch to be removable. I’ve been traveling a lot recently so Cody actually tackled designing this removable system for me. Then on top of that he even cut out the parts needed with my Torchmate CNC so everything was ready for me to assemble. Annnnd he even got footage of it! What?! What a guy. I do have these tool paths available for download in the plans section of my website if you’re interested.

These mounting brackets have a bottom plate that will be attached to the deck of the trailer, then two vertical plates that will sandwich either side of the arch. Then all three components will get a hole so a pin can be placed all the way through. This will create the pivot needed but also make the arch removable should we want to use the trailer for regular hauling.

I started these off by lining out the placement of these side plates, the important thing here is to make sure they are parallel to one another. You wouldn’t want that arch pivoting up and having an interference issue.

I’m using a 1” diameter pin and to give it a little more support than the 1/4” plate material, I welded on some collars, just cut from a 1” steel pipe, onto the outside of both side plates.

Next I set it onto the trailer and threw a level on it. Not surprisingly, the deck of the trailer needed some attention before the plate would be level. Note: you do want to make sure your trailer is level before reading level on this bracket. To fix my unleveled situation I used my 4” belt sander to take down the high spot on the deck. After fine tuning the left and right I moved on.

With that done I moved to working on reinforcing the bottom side of the trailer with some steel. For this I’m going with 1/4” angle iron and the important thing is for this angle iron to line up with the holes in the mounting brackets. Instead of welding the brackets to the trailer, they will be attached using nuts and bolts so they too will be removable. The arch will be removable with the pin but should we need/want to remove these brackets as well, then we easily can.

So back to placing this angle iron, I first transferred over the hole location from the mounting brackets to the side of the trailer. Then I cut the angle iron to length and stuck it in place…be sure to leave room for not only the bolt but also the washer. I used some scrap wood to build up the deck some so I could get a clamp in place to hold it while I set up to weld.

I placed a piece like this in line with the front holes as well as the back. Then started drilling the holes through the deck and through the angle iron. I am using 1/2” hardware but started off with a small bit then stepped up a few times until getting to a 1/2” bit. Oh and the important thing here is to make sure these plates are parallel to one another, just like the plates on the brackets. You want everything on the same line so that the arch doesn’t run into anything going up or coming down.

Once all eight holes were drilled, I stuck the hardware in then tightened everything down.

Now while I was working on all that, Brain was working over at my puny drill press, punching a hole through both of the uprights. It was a 1” hole through 1/4” material so it was a job that required patience. By the time I was done with the deck, he was done with the holes so I took the uprights and smoothed out my welds with my grinder before pinning it onto the trailer.

To attach them to the trailer, I set it in place between the two vertical sides plates on the mounting bracket. Then moved to the end of the leg so I could lift up on it, align all three holes, then shove the pin through. It’s worth noting these pins come with a hole in the end to place another pin to keep this pin from coming out. Which of course is a good safety. And now you can kinda see how it will work….

After getting the other side mounted I squared up both uprights to each other and the mounting brackets, then took a dimension for the final arch piece. I cut it to length then welded it in place. It’s not only easier moving the arch into place, building it this way but it’s also a safer bet over fabbing it on a shop floor, moving it into place on the trailer, and hoping everything lines up.

With that welded up, the last bit on the arch was to weld on some gussets over each one of the seams. These I hand cut with my Tomahawk plasma cutter because I used thinner material. For these I went with 3/16” material. I only placed these on the front of the arch so I have four total. The middle two were easily done with the arch laid down but the fender wheel of the trailer got in the way of the outer two so I stood it up to complete these.

Now while I worked on the arch Cody and Brian were figuring out how to mount a winch to the trailer so it could work! I actually went out of town the day they were working on his portion and unlike earlier, they did not get me any footage, but here an overview for ya.

Cody cut out a giant plate on the CNC plasma cutter to fit in the tongue of the trailer for the winch to sit on. He welded it to the bottom side of the trailer instead of the top side so that when the winch is under load it will be getting pulled into the tongue vs being welded from the top it would just pull against the welds.

The winch and battery were mounted then a heavy duty D Ring was welded onto the arch to create a grab point for the arch.

And that’s pretty much it! Next we just had to go find a log to test it out. A buddy offered two down oaks at his place for us to remove so we loaded up and took off. They both had giant root systems still attached so I first cut those off to make hauling them up on the trailer easier.

I’m already considering some add ons to make hauling easier. Somebody on Instagram suggested adding Jacks to the back end of the trailer, which I think is a great idea. Then I’m also playing around with the idea of ramps with rollers in it to make getting the log up and over the trailer lip easier. But we’ll see! Of course if I do any modifications I will be sure to bring you guys along.

If you have doubts about what something like this can handle then be sure to check out Matt’s Instagram and YouTube channel as he lives where the beast trees are but his arch trailer hasn’t met one it couldn’t handle yet. Also he has been into urban logging for years and has a ton of knowledge on the subject.

That’s it for this one. Watch my video above for a better look at this project. And stay tuned for the next video where I build a chainsaw mill and slab up these logs. I’ll see you soon.

The post Building a Log Hauling Trailer appeared first on Wilker Do's.

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ronaldbosieyiii · 6 years

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Ultimate Mobile Clamp Rack

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Things I Used For This Project:

ISOtunes Bluetooth Hearing Protection

Hercules Dolly

Ultimiate Workbench Plans

Triton Track Saw

Right Angle Clamps

Titebond Original Wood Glue

Brad Nailer

Bessey K Body Clamps

Rockler Surefoot Clamps

Bessey KlikClamps

Bessey DuoClamps

Bessey F Style Clamps

Bessey Miter Clamps

Infinity Table Saw Blade

Infinity Insert Plate

Rockler Cross Lap Jig

Titebond Glue Pump

Rolling Lumber Rack Plans

This week I’m tackling a problem that I’m thankful to have, and that’s having so many clamps! Noticed I didn’t say too many, as there is no such thing. Recently a local cabinet marker retired and sold me his entire stock of Bessey clamps. And instead of adding to my wall mounted system I’ll be building this mobile rack so I can wheel all of my clamps over to a work surface instead of carrying them a few at a time. Lets jump into how I did it.

When doing a basic search for mobile clamp racks I ran across this Infinity Tools video and loved the simple but effective design using plywood so I started off by replicating the body.

I started by setting the boards on my workbench and drawing those two unique side shapes on a sheet of plywood then using my track saw to cut them out. These look like an Erlenmeyer Flask where it’s wider on the bottom and narrower on the top and I can tell you now that I’ve built it, that the rack doesn’t feel at all top heavy, even when fully weighted down.

The rack does take two sheets of plywood to complete the build and you’ll notice that I’m using a new assistant in my shop. It’s a new panel carrier to hit the market called Hercules Dolly. Instead of woman-handling full sheets over to my workbench, I’m now able to set the front end of my sheet on the Hercules Dolly then very easily maneuver the sheet over with no effort at all. You can place the dolly at the front if you need to drive it around items, or more near the center of the sheet to take more of the load or to give you a good balance point should you want to also use the dolly to help lift the sheet of plywood.

If you’re interested my friends at Hercules Dolly have given me a 10% off coupon code for y’all. For the next two weeks, if you use April at checkout then you’ll get 10% off your Hercules Dolly.

After getting both sides and the bottom cut I started joining things together, using the help of these right angle clamps.

Next I moved the entire thing to the ground to make attaching that center board of plywood easier. I laid it on it’s side and marked off where the board needed to be place then laid down Titebond Original wood glue. I stood the unit up to attach it with screws and even though I had that pencil mark on where the board needed to land I found it easier to cut a spacer, clamp it in place, and just butt the board up to it then screw it down. After getting done with one side, I repeated on the other side.

Next was more glue then attaching the front lip to create a bottom shelf. These I screwed in from the sides but then I also flipped the unit over to attach it from the bottom. Here I took the chance to also secure the center board in a few places from the bottom as well.

I wanted to make the unit mobile so next I added some heavy duty casters and I do recommend investing in some good casters for projects like this. I first beefed up the area they would be mounted to the rack because it will be hauling around a good bit of weight when it’s fully loaded down. I chose to mount these pads on the inside of my unit to avoid adding height to the rack but if 3/4” doesn’t make a difference to you, these can also be mounted to the bottom so they aren’t seen.

My friend and fellow content creator Maker Gray was hanging out with me so I recruited her to help me test out the rack. I better get out of there before we decide to start throwing knives or something. haha.

Alright now to move on to customizing this unit to really be functional. This is where things might vary for you since everybody’s clamp collection is different. I recommend pulling out every clamp you own, pull a few dimensions, then dictate the number and placement of the holders that will make the most of the space for you.

All of my holders are extremely simple, put together with wood glue and brad nails then attached to the rack using pocket holes. I didn’t use any glue when attaching the holders because as my clamp collection changes I want to have the ability to move things around and reorganize.

Since I have so many Bessey K Body style clamps, I’m dedicating an entire side of the rack to them. I sped up the process by batching out the holders by tapping the plywood cuts together then running them through the bandsaw all at the same time. This creates the triangle support piece on the bottom side of the shelf. After drilling a few pocket holes in each shelf I attached things with glue and brad nails.

To save on space, I’ll be storing all my really long clamps vertically but all the medium sized clamps horizontally and it’s extraordinary how many clamps I was able to jam in doing it this way. 42 if you’re wondering!

Just a tip when you’re placing these shelves, set one screw but be sure to throw a level on it before setting the second. This will make things look really tight and sharp in the end. Once I placed enough shelves to mount all my clamps of this style I attached a small lip to the front of each holder to keep the clamps from being able to slide off while moving the entire rack around. Oh another tip for you: I discovered that a shelf would hold four clamps if I placed them all facing the same direction, but if I alternated the heads then I could fit in six clamps on each shelf. So if I need more room in the future I could consolidate and free up more space along the bottom.

Alright, now onto the other side. I had a few more extra long K Body style clamps so I first included a similar shelf on this side to house those. But then I started making shelves suited to hold the Rockler Surefoot bar clamps, which since I’ve never owned K Bodys before, have been my main go to clamps for glue ups.

These clamps are aluminum and very light weight so I kept their hanging brackets much simpler and left it as two shallow triangles with a few pocket holes in them to attach to the back. Now I had something unique planned for this side of the rack so I made sure all these hangers along the top would keep the clamps on this side inside the side walls of the rack itself. I’ll get to my reasoning later on, but note that if you don’t want to do any add ons like me, then you can make these brackets protrude past the side walls and hold more clamps to fit your collection in.

With the left over room on this side, I started making brackets and placing my other clamps including these Bessey KliKlamps and Duo Clamps.

Moving on to storing my F Style clamps. For this, I took inspiration from my buddy Tyson who did a really cool three layer wall mounted rack for his collection.

I started off by switching my blade to a dado stack that matched the thickness of the clamp’s neck. BTW another new thing in my shop I’m loving are these insert plates from Infinity Tools. Instead of cutting a slot in a new plate, they make a permanent plate with a slot for a removable insert. Once I cut into a new one, I write directly on the insert what cutting size it’s for so I can easily grab for it in the future.

I had to share that because I think it’s way too cool. Anyways, for cutting the slots equally you can of course measure across your board and mark off where to cut then manually move your board along, but I ended up using a really neat new jig put out by Rockler that makes this task a cinch.

The jig works so that you can set a metal gauge on the sacrificial fence to match the width of your dado cut. This way after you cut one slot, you can place that cut on this gauge then it will space all your other cuts equally for you. You’ll see that I went ahead and stacked two boards together while making these cuts because I wanted two boards for the top of the clamps as well as the bottom. Or at least that’s the case for the larger sizes.

To attach these holder I stuck with a few pocket holes along the bottom and secured them directly to that center board.

Now another thing to consider if you tackle this project is to place your clamps according to what you use most. My most reached for clamps are the bar clamps so I placed those in the prime position on my rack, then the F style clamps along the bottom. But if you use these more often, then place them higher an other clamps lower.

Oops – I skipped over the miter clamps. This was an easy shelf with some holes punched in it to match the diameter of the threads on these clamps. I added some triangle support wings then used pocket holes to attach it.

Then finally the last style of clamp I wanted to hang were these wooden hand screw clamps. These were the easiest as it was just a stumb out scrap piece with some pocket holes to attach it. You can see I made two different sizes for the three sizes of clamps I have.

I’ll have to play around and see what I end up using this bottom shelf mostly for but in the mean time I used it for accessories to gluing such as my gallon bottle storage, these tiny clamps that I placed in a bin, and these right angle clamp it jigs I so often reach for.

Keep in mind you could stop there on the rack but I had a few more ideas for add ons to take the unit another step further.

First thing was a glue refilling station. If you keep your small glue bottles close to full then you don’t have to squeeze as hard while applying. However, going from the gallon jug to the smaller one is always a challenge but Titebond has got our backs with a new pump to simplify the task. By adding in a shelf for my gallon jug to sit on, I’m thinking I’ll not put off filling up my smaller bottles as long as I normally do. Then on the same thought process, I went ahead and made another shelf for my small glue bottles to be housed in.

Ok this next add on is something I was very excited to try but understand that it’s an experiment so I might need to make some adjustments in the future.

What I’m aiming for is to have a glue up rack on my clamp rack. This will eliminate taking up workbench space for any small glue ups, which for me covers about 90% of my glue ups.

I wanted this attachment to be removable so I came up with a design that incorporates a French cleat. I started by making these cleats over at the bandsaw then attaching them to the rack on either end. This set up could end up supporting a good bit of weight so I went ahead and used wood glue on these.

Next I cut a board to length with a corresponding 45 degree angle cut on the bottom to fit into these cleats.

Then I made some dog ears, or some stand offs that I would cut and then attach to this board. These are so I could not only push out a metal rod from the board, but also provide the rod some support across it’s length.

With that looking like it would work I next started figuring out how to modify these Rockler Surefoot clamps so that I could hang them from this metal rod. These clamps already come with two holes punched near the end. I enlarged the last hole to match the size of my rod then took it to my bandsaw and cut away some material in order to create a hook. I cut in this hook on all my 24” and 36” long clamps.

Now you can see what I’m going for….. the glue up rack is removable so I can have it out of the way if needed but then quickly set into place when needed. Then I can hang my clamps with this hook and I can place the clamps anywhere along this rod. If I have a short boards for glue up then I can place two really close or four close, but then if I have a long board glue up then I can go up to 4’ wide with my clamp spacing.

There was still more to figure out though. Instead of having the clamps hang vertically I wanted to have them angled out some to make feeding in boards easier and to also push the glue up away from the rack for dripping glue to miss it. To achieve that, I first cut off the 45 angle in between the two cleats. This is so I could extend this board down further so I could attach another board to push out the clamps, but a little bit further than where it would currently land.

I took the rack off to make attaching this board easier but I didn’t use glue as again this is an experiment and I know I might need to make adjustments in the future. In the mean time I left it at predrilling then using screws.

And Volia…..that does exactly what I need it to do. I’m so excited to play around with this in my next few glue ups. Keep in mind that you could easily build this rack by itself and place it anywhere in your shop that you place a mating cleat. I went ahead and placed a cleat on my lumber rack so if I don’t want it on my clamp rack for some reason I have another option for it other than my workbench surface.

Ok last attachment for this Swiss army clamp rack….adding in a roll of brown construction paper and a roll of wax paper. It’s very handy having a roll of each in the shop to protect surfaces from getting gunked up due to painting, finishing or glue up. I placed a few dog ears along the top surface then threaded another length of metal rod through. These stand offs are attached by pocket holes, facing out, so if either roll needs to be replaced in the future it’s an easy task.

Now I’m sure a lot of you will suggest to add a bandsaw blade to the rack to make tearing off this paper easier, but I did this for my other roll over on my out feed table and I can tell you that moving a pocket knife across the paper is far easier than moving the 4’ wide paper across a stationary blade. But to each their own of course.

Aw man, I lied. One more attachment. I glue station takes up one side of the rack, but the other is still blank so I added on a cleat so that when I’m not using the glue up rack, I can store it on the clamp rack itself. This keeps it assessable for use but also keeps it from just lending up against a wall somewhere, taking up space.

Ok, and I’m not lying this time. That really does do it for this clamp rack. I haven’t quite figured out where I want to keep it yet, but for now I’ll place it in this corner.

I think I’ll have to come back and add on a handle on each side to make grabbing and pulling this thing around, easier. Check out the plans section of my website if you would like a set of plans for this one.

I hope you enjoyed it because I loved this project. I like things having a home and being easy to find. I hope this inspires you to make a clamp rack of your own.

The post Ultimate Mobile Clamp Rack appeared first on Wilker Do's.

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ronaldbosieyiii · 6 years

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Tiny House: Part Three

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Things I used for this project:

ISOTunes Bluetooth Hearing Protection

Circular Saw

Framing Nailer

Custom Tool Belt

Slap Stapler

There was actually two months time in between my first visit (when the first two videos were made) and this second visit when we made this video above. In that time, Anne completely cleared out the site by removing the old shed she knocked over prior to us starting on this one. She also leveled out the land and caulked and primed most of the tiny house.

Bonus for this part of the build: George Vondriska came to help as well!

This week we started off with the electrical. First using a chalk line to mark the heights of the electrical boxes. Actually I held one end of the line but then while George started nailing on boxes, I started screwing down the floor. Anne and I used nails when we were putting it together, but adding screws will prevent squeaking over time.

While we were keeping busy there, Anne was going around the studs drilling holes in order to run the Romex. Anne figured out where she would be placing her panel then we started routing the wire. She actually plans to do solar in the future but while figuring out that process, we stuck with the traditional method of power. The tiny house will have a few boxes along the lower walls, a few light scones above the windows, then 6 outlets in the ceiling for lights or maybe fans.

Working as a team, George would work ahead and drill the holes needed, while I followed him running the wire. I’m not sure if you can see or not but Anne placed the level across both our ladders to hang the Romex wiring from so she could feed it to me as needed. This is a great solution if you don’t have a spool caddy.

After getting all the wall outlets and switches wired in, we ran the wiring to the ceiling lights then started on insulation. We went with pre cut and faced batts and started on the ceiling as it’s the worst. What we found to work quickest is George and I would be on the ladders with Anne passing us the batts. I would feed in my end and staple it down. Then pass it to George where he would repeat on his end of the batt. All the while Anne would be cutting another batt to size to fit the wall cavity my ladder was currently positioned in front of. By the time I split the batt down the center and fed it behind the wiring in the cavity, George was done with his securing and would pass the stapler back to me.

All three of us got a kick out of trying to perfect our timing on this. : )

When it came to the walls, it seemed to go even quicker as most of the bays were as easy as taking a batt out then stuffing it in the cavity. However, we were working with just a single stapler so we ended up with one person stuffing (making sure to split the batt and place half behind the wiring), one person stapling, then the third person measuring the odd ball size cavities and making those cuts needed. This kept all three of us busy and knocked the job out quickly.

Alright, up next was drywall! Which I was stoked about as I’ve never done drywall before. With the ceiling going to be the most difficult, we started there. Also you want to start on the ceiling so your wall boards butt right up to it.

We first made a helper in the shape of a T. This will be used to hold up the drywall sheet while we have time to secure it.

Now folks, I know this to be called a dead man, and George knows it to be an old lady……which are quite different. Either way, you can see how it works here. George and I are able to lift the sheet into place, then when we were happy with it’s position Anne could kick in the dead man which allowed us to rest our shoulders and start attaching.

Before attaching the panel though, George would first cut out around the electrical boxes with a router and a bit called a roto zip. It works similar to a flush trim bit except it’s much smaller and is designed for this specific application.

Then using a collated gun, which is a drill that feeds screws off a magazine clip, I would start attaching my side to the studs. Since there was only one collated gun, George would use a regular drill to drive in screws on his side. At least enough of them to hold up the panel so he could hop down and start lining out the next sheet and I could finish up the attaching.

A few other things I learned that are helpful on this step is to mark all your studs and rafters on the panels before setting them into place. This way you can very quickly go through and attach it. Stagger your seams just like with any other sheet application. When you start on a second row use a full panel and start in the center of the room then work your way out. Oh, and if you use a regular drill for drywall, look into a special bit for drywall screws that will prevent you from overdriving the screw.

You’ll notice that the drywall we are using is green, that’s because this is moisture and mold resistant. Anne noticed it was only going to cost $60 more to use this kind of drywall over the traditional kind and with it being in the forest and in Washington she decided it would be worth it.

After getting the ceiling knocked out, we unloaded the rest of the drywall from the truck and into the tiny house so it would all be on hand to quickly throw up. The sheets come in a pack of two and just a tip, as you unload and stack them, peal off the paper ends and flip the outside panel so it faces the same direction as it’s partner. This way the entire stack is all facing the same way in the end and you won’t have to do a bunch of flipping around when you’re rockin.

With the ceiling done, next we repeated the process and knocked out the walls. We very quickly got into the groove of two people holding the panel up, while another attached….this was mostly my job because once I discovered the fun-ness of that collated drill I wasn’t willing to give it up…..When the sheet was attached enough to stay up, George would cut out for the boxes while Anne would measure for the next board and be prepping it with cutting it to length or height, then also laying out the stud lines….or going back with the regular drill and sinking any screws that didn’t properly seat with my gun. It is really important for the next step that you don’t have any scew heads protruding.

Now we were in Washington and dancing around rain the three days we had to work, so with a break in the rain, we decided to attach the roof before taping and mudding.

You should remember from part two that Anne and I already progressed the roof to sheathing, roofing paper, and drip edge but were waiting on the metal roof to be delivered. So now it was as simple as passing the panels up, laying them down, and attaching them. While these panels are large, they aren’t that heavy so I was able to tilt it up to the roof then George was able to pull it up all the way and create a stack on the roof to use.

One panel wasn’t long enough to have the overhang Anne was wanting so we started off by cutting a panel up to create a starter strip. Starting at the bottom of the roof we made a few spacers to make sure the overhang was even then another spacer to use as a guide on where to place our screws. This just keeps them in line and makes it look sharp in the end.

After the starter row was complete we started laying down full panels, over lapping each one by one corrugation and again using a spacer to make sure the overhang was even along the top of the roof. This was my first time laying down a metal roof and I must say I’m a fan. It was easy and it looked very sharp afterwards. Total I don’t even know if the roof took us an hour to complete.

Still taking advantage of the let up in rain, we continued on with the outside work. Moving over to the soffit. For this we used some plywood that Anne had on hand which happen to be some 3/8” material and cut it to size with a circular saw. And this wasn’t all that bad. Soffit on my shop was horrible and I think scarred me for life! Or at least my shoulders for life, but using boards only 8’ long made it extremely manageable. Tip for this step is to go through and mark all your studs on the siding before throwing up the soffit. If you forget it isn’t a big deal as you can just measure, but it does speed things up if you remember and mark. We attached them to the studs with a framing nailer.

It was in the middle of this step that George had to fly back to WI so we said our goodbyes but got back to work. Since Anne and I were already on ladders we went ahead and cut and threw up the remaining trim work needed.

But after that, the only thing outside left to do was prime and paint but we decided to leave that and spend my last day in Washington getting further on the inside.

Now Anne plans to do a nice reclaimed barn wood floor eventually but in the meantime we did a second layer of plywood for the subfloor. We tracked in a ton of mud through building so we made sure to sweep before laying these sheets down and also made sure to stagger the seams from the previous layer of treated plywood.

That was of course a very simple step. Next we threw up a few sheets of cement board. This is because Anne is including a tiny stove in the tiny house. She will eventually plumb an exhaust line that will vent through the ceiling but for the mean time we just took care of the floor and walls by cutting a few boards then attaching them in place. Later Anne will cover these boards in stone and create an accent section that should look pretty adorable and cozy.

Even though it’s far from ready to be installed, we at least wanted to unbox the tiny stove to set it in place and see how it would look. Pretty adorable and cozy if you ask me.

Alrighty, now on to taping and bedding! Again this was a first for me and I will tell you now, that I loved this step. I wish I had more time to dive into it and get really good at it. Anne taught me what she learned from doing her shop build then we took off on it. It took us a second to figure out the best way to work efficiently but we eventually came to Anne going around and taping all the seams then me coming back and mudding.

We used mesh tape for all of the seams but paper tape in all the corners. Anne was having a heck of a time with the corners, particularly on the ceiling, but a friend suggested wetting the tape before applying it and Anne said this made all the difference in the world. So just a tip if you’re new to drywalling.

We made it a point to complete the first coat before calling it quits that day so that it could be setting up over night and allow us to apply a second coat before I had to head back home. The next day we started the day off with the second coat hoping it would dry by afternoon time frame so we miiiight be able to get a third coat on, but no such luck. With all the rain Washington was having when I was there, there was too must moisture in the air for it to dry quickly. No problem though.

This last day was Anne’s actual birthday. We ended up eating two different kinds of birthday cake for breakfast, spent a few hours mudding together on this awesome little house we built together, then spent the rest of the time playing around her farm with her lovable animals. I just want to say that I feel very blessed to have found a friend who thinks this was a perfect day.

Be sure and watch Anne’s YouTube channel to see the rest of the progress of Tiny House and I hope you enjoyed this series.

(If you haven’t seen part one and two in this series, you can check out part one here and part two here)

The post Tiny House: Part Three appeared first on Wilker Do's.

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ronaldbosieyiii · 6 years

Text

Tiny House: Part Two

youtube

Things I Used:

IsoTunes Bluetooth Hearing Protection

Circular Saw

Framing Nailer

Custom Tool Belt

Slap Stapler

In my previous video I covered the building process of a Tiny House up to the point of applying house wrap. Check the description if you’d like to watch the first part and get caught up. In this video I’m picking up right where I left off.

As I mentioned in the last video, we skinned two walls with siding before standing them up but didn’t skin the other two because we were worried about taking the chance of placing the siding without the walls next to each other, as these two pieces should mate up flush. So we started with attaching siding to these two bare sides.

If you look at the foundation, you’ll notice that we attached some 2x material temporarily to give us a lip to set the siding on and make attaching it easier and quicker. Also, it’s worth noting that this siding is overhanging the foundation by about an inch and this is so when it rains the water will run off to the ground instead of having access to the bottom plate of the wall.

We wrapped around to the front and repeated, by first placing the 2x material to the foundation then setting the material in place to be attached. However, you with building experience probably already caught our mistake…..see the windows need to be installed before the siding so that the window flanges are behind the siding. We knew this but simply got caught up working and moving, and forgot. Unfortunately that meant we had to take down the siding we just put up, pound the nails out, then set them aside.

To install the window we first cut the house wrap. This is similar to the big double door in the previous video but on windows you cut in a capital I, slicing horizontal along the top and bottom then a vertical slice in the middle. You can wrap the side excess around and staple it to the inside of the window framing but then for the top you cut two diagonals from each corner to create a flap. I’ll show you why in just a few seconds.

Next was to prep the windows. Anne salvaged these windows from somebody throwing them away so we first did a little bit of cleaning then placed a heavy line of Titebond Weather Master Ultimate Sealant along the left, top, and right flange. You want to have a continuous bead here but you want to leave the bottom clean so that if water does find a way in, it has a way to run out.

We then placed a few wedges on the window sill then being careful not to get sealant all over our hands, we placed the window inside the opening and ontop of the wedges.

On the inside, Anne centered the window in the frame, then on the outside I leveled it up. Once everything looked as it should, we attached it with a few nails through the flange then used tape to seal off first the left then the right side. Now you can see where that flap we created earlier comes into play, it’s folded down and over the top flange of the window then the tape is applied. This is so if any moisture does get behind the siding, it will be guided to stay on top of the window and house wrap instead of behind it.

Alrighty, now that we corrected that, we once again applied the siding. We still used the temporary blocks on the foundation to make it easier, but this time we had to cut out for the windows before placing the sheets up. To do this we would grab some measurements, make the majority of the cut using a circular saw, then finish off the corners with a reciprocating saw.

We would set it in place then tack it with a few nails then while I was finishing the nailing, Anne would be making the cut out for the next sheet. Getting into a system, this step goes quickly, you just want to make sure to pay attention to the tongue and groove orientation as you are making yours cuts so that the sheets line up properly to each other. It’s really easy to get things flipped so just a step you want to take the time to double check things on.

Moving around to the front we repeated the steps for the house wrap and installing the window but once we got the window to a stage where one person could handle it, we took measurements for the cut outs so Anne could be working on the siding while I finished the window.

Working in this manner is how we were able to complete so much in just a few short days. Where we would divide up tasks so that as one of us finished up something, the other would be starting/prepping the next thing.

Up next was starting on the roof, as you saw from the finished build the tiny house has a lean to style roof with just a single pitch. To create this, we started building what I know to be called a pony wall. Where we build up a small wall in the front that the rafters will rest on but the backs will rest against the double top plate. We built this pony wall using all the cut offs from framing the building, as all the pieces needed are short little guys. I not only cut the pieces to length but also cut the roof pitch angle on the tops.

Since the rafters will be placed 16 on center, these are also placed on 16 centers. Pulling a tape across the top plate in order to mark their location first, then attaching them with the nailer.

Once making it to the end and getting all the cripples attached, we placed a single 2×4 across them all and attached it. This will create a solid resting place for the rafters in the next step.

Next up was to cut all the rafters, which is made from 2×6 material. The backs of the rafters will have a birds mouth cut in so it sit down onto the top plate. This cut is made with a circular saw but then finished off with a reciprocating saw.

The front of the rafters will have a seat cut but it is also made with a circular saw for the majority of the cuts then finished off with a recip saw.

Anne and I worked out the system where we first made one board to act as the template for the rest. After testing this template we used it to trace the cuts needed onto all the other rafters. We are working with limited space as we only have the door way to utilized as a workbench, so instead of flip flopping around to make all the cuts needed, I would make the long seat cut with my saw, pass the board to her and she make the opposing cut with her saw then finish it off with the recip saw. This allowed us to work quickly but not be in each others way.

Now to attach the rafters. To make things go quick we first marked off the 16” layout on the back top plate as well as that pony wall top plate. This way we could get a rafter in place and very quickly see where it needed to be aligned in the front and back then attach it with the nailer.

You’ll see that instead of relying solely on the back birds mouth cut to line up these rafters, I’m pulling a measurement on each one from the front and using that measurement/mark to line up to the front top plate. I didn’t know if this was really needed, but I can tell you it worked like a champ as when we went to attach the sub facia, it was incredibly straight and in line.

Just a side note: By placing the rafters in line with these cripples, then also in line with the studs of the wall below, it just gives the whole structure a little more integrity.

We repeated the process all the way down. Another system tip to work quickly is after I got my end stuck, I would pass the nailer to Anne, but while she was working on sticking her end I would be grabbing the next rafter and setting it in place. It’s little things like this that combine into a lot of time saved at the end

Next up we added a few cripples to both of the side walls then starting attaching the sub facia. We were working with just a single ladder tall enough to get to the roof so we attached a temporary block so Anne could pass up the facia, have something to set it on, and something I could pivot it on, while I aligned it to the rafters and nailed it in place. You can see I’m using my speed square to line it up to the top of the rafters. Anne would push or pull it until it lined up.

We repeated the process along the back, and I don’t know if you can see it or not but we left an overhang on both the left and right side because up next we will be making the fly rafters. Which is what creates the roof overhang on the left and right of the building to match the front and back overhang. Anne would cut then pass all these pieces up to be attached.

And that my friends is the bones of the roof complete. Now we just need to deck it.

Since it’s just the two of us, getting the full sheets of OSB up to the roof was a little bit of a challenge but Anne came up with a great way to make it happen. She first laid a sheet on the tractor bucket and attached two feet on either side. We strapped that down to the bucket and used it as a platform with a shelf for the rest of the boards to be loaded onto. We very quickly unloaded then loaded the sheets from the back of the truck.

Yes, we took the time to carve a path wide enough for a truck to get to the job site because we were tired of carrying everything back there.

Now the bucket could be lifted as high as it could go then Anne just had to rotate one enough for me to grab it then pull it the rest of the way up to the roof.

Being resourceful is just as good as being strong.

Anne isn’t a huge fan of roofs so I did the high work while she stayed on the ground to make all the cuts needed. I would recommend this system instead of making cuts up on the roof because the sawdust creates a very slick surface.

I started off at the back so I could create a walking surface as I worked towards the front. The first sheet was ripped down so that it landed center on a stud then the next sheet could be a full one. On the second row, we made sure to stagger the seams by one stud then continued on the same until the entire roof was decked.

With that complete, we then started laying down the roofing paper. We started at the back because when you lay down paper, you want to overlap it so that if waters finds a way in, it won’t be able to get to the decking.

If you start at the front, the overlapping row will look like this and water running down hill will flow right into this seam. However if you start at the back, it will flow right over the seam.

The paper comes with printed lines on it to indicate where to place the overlap, so we laid down row after row. Using a slap stapler to attach it and pulling it tight so there weren’t any wrinkles in it.

The last thing we were able to do on the roof, because we were waiting on the roofing material to be delivered was apply the drip edge. This is a quick step as you simply nail it on all four sides, using a pair of tin snips to cut the corners so it can wrap around it.

Like I said, we were waiting on the roofing material to show up, so we moved back down to the body of the building to finish it up. First we applied house wrap to the pony wall we built earlier. You can see we left a flap of house wrap on the lower walls, and we made sure to tuck this behind the new layer then staple it at the same time.

Next we placed Z Flashing down on the lip of the siding before placing on any upper siding. This has a profile where a part will tuck behind the upper siding but then lip over the bottom siding, and this will guide water out and away from this seam instead of it being a potential spot where moisture could get in.

After taping the top part of the Z flashing, we filled in the rest of the pony wall with siding.

Alright at this point we only had a few more hours to go so the last thing we tackled was all the trim work. Well not all the trim work as we didn’t get to install the soffit so the top trim was left off, but everything else….the corners, the windows, and the bottom trim was cut and attached. And isn’t it funny how much of a difference trim makes on the entire look?

The last thing we did was install the door. We held off on this as long as possible because the floor of the house was our main work area. After we threw the door in, we also did the little bit of trim work around that to call it complete!

The last thing we did was install the door…which turned into a mini project because apparently I modeled the size of the reclaimed door Anne had wrong. So the opening was about a foot too large.

It was a pretty awful feeling, but I will say that at least the hole framed was too big vs too small as too big is a much easier fix. We centered the door then filled in the sides with some extra 2x4s. It’s one beefy door frame. Then to get a really clean line to patch in a piece of siding, we set up a straight line fence and used a circular saw to rip a clean edge on both sides. This allowed us to almost seamlessly extend out the siding and cover up these 2x4s.

And honestly, even though it was embarrassing to make the mistake, it was a simple fix that can’t even be seen now that I’ve seen the building caulked and primed. I’m taking it as a lesson learned – and I learned to measure twice and to not go into a project thinking you won’t make a mistake. Instead, go into a project with the attitude of any mistake can be worked through. Because it happens to everybody.

Stay tuned for the third part to this tiny house build. Until then, I hope y’all enjoyed this one, I hope you learned something, and I hope you’re building something of your own. See you soon.

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ronaldbosieyiii · 6 years

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Tiny House: Part One

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Tools Used:

ISOTunes Bluetooth Hearing Protection Circular Saw Framing Nailer Custom Tool Belt Slap Stapler

I went to Seattle for seven days with the motivation to tackle something on Anne’s to-do list. When she threw out a tiny house, I didn’t think it was beyond our ability, even given the timeline.

The location Anne wanted the house actually had a shed currently there but it was in such bad condition, the first thing she did was grab the tractor and push it over. This shot is me standing on the rubble to give you an idea on how tight of quarters we were working in.

The tiny house will be 8” x 12” It’s a prime area for a tiny house once it’s built, as it’s just a short walk from the lake, but we were a little cramped building it, annnnd there is about a 300 ft walk to get to the site. Which means we spent a good portion of the first day doing nothing but humping material back to the job site one load at a time.

Something else about the location – it’s extremely soft and spongy due to all the rain the area gets. With that, instead of doing a slab we went with a pier and beam set up. However, instead of digging them down into the ground and setting them in concrete, we used adjustable brackets on the top of the piers that will hold the beam. This way Anne will be able to make adjustments in the future as the ground shifts or give her the ability to pick it up completely and relocate it.

After getting the piers set up roughly where the footprint of the tiny house needed to be, we pulled a string line to get them all in a perfect line then set both of the beams in their brackets.

We pulled a tape and spent a good amount of time not only getting the two beams square, but also getting them level. First getting each beam level then making sure they were also level to each other. We made adjustments by raising or lowering the brackets in the piers.

Alright, beams are set, let’s start making a floor.

The timber you see here, the beams and the 2x6s are actually treated wood. In my area treated material is blonde with a green tint, so I found this interesting. We started by butting together the two end boards and marking off where each one of the floor joists will need to go.

And can I just say how cool it is to come off my shop build where my friend George taught me so much about building and framing, then so quickly jump into a project where I’m able to not only put my knowledge to use, but to also pass it along.

Before attaching the joist, each one needed to be cut to length so Anne and I worked out a quick system where I would mark the boards, draw a line, then pass them to her to cut.

Then to attach them we would use the marks we made previous on the outside boards to line the joist up. You can see I used a speed square to make sure the tops were flush to one another while Anne stuck it with a nail. This keeps things aligned and also your hands out of the way. We repeated all the way down until all the joists were attached.

What I mentioned earlier about being cramped while building, meant we didn’t have much area to work outside of this footprint where the house was going. So that’s why we are building the floor directly on the pier and beams. It was a little bit of a balancing act, but heck we got it done. You can see that after attaching one side, we slide it over until we could use the opposite beam to attach the other side.

With that done we made a few marks on the beams then centered up the floor before taking the diagonal measurements and squaring it up. Once both read the same measurement we attached the floor to the beams by toe nailing in nails through each joist.

Next up was decking. For a sub floor, we went with 3/4” treated plywood and this step is as simple as laying down panels and attaching it to each joist. Anne was pretty impressed with our work so far when things lined up perfectly…..: )

And that is the truth. If you build a structure, take your time to get things level and square and it will make every step on the project quicker and better for you.

On the floor, we staggered the seams of the plywood. We would set the panels in place, then rip them to land on center of the floor joist. Anne would nail the corners to tack them in place, then we used a caulk line to mark the location of each joist to quickly do the intermediate nailing.

I got to introduce Anne to bump mode on the nailer and I might be mistaken, but I think she’s a fan. If you aren’t familiar, bump mode allows you to hold the trigger down and the gun will shoot a nail when the nozzle is compressed. You should always be mindful when using a nailer, but even more so if you are in bump mode. Next we pause because we were building this tiny house on the fly and I wanted to take a second to model up the walls we were about to start framing so we would have a plan of attack.

We will be using the floor we just built to build all the walls on. We started building the back wall first because it’s one of the two largest and also doesn’t have any windows or doors to frame in. So it will go pretty darn quick.

Just like what we did with the outside perimeter boards when building the floor, we started off with what will be the top and bottom plate butted up next to each other, and first marked off where the studs needed to be placed.

Every stud needed to be cut to length so we set up a system once again to knock it out quickly. I think it’s worth noting that it takes a surprisingly small amount of tools in order to complete such an undertaking. We were restricted to only using battery operated tools, because of the location, and about 90% of the entire building relied on a circular saw and nailer. Here’s a photo we took of all the tools we used, after the project was complete. The only thing missing is a chalk line.

With this wall not having any doors or windows to frame in, it came together very quickly.

Next we framed the two side walls, starting with the side without a window in it, just to knock out, and we actually built it directly on top of the larger wall we just finished. Then we did the exact same with the other short wall, over on the other side. And if you’re interested in a set of plans for the build, I will have a set of plans on my website.

After getting the third wall built, we had to pause on framing to get these stood up before building the fourth and final wall. Instead of doing what I did on my shop where we framed, stood the walls up then skinned them off ladders, Anne and I decided to try skinning the walls before standing them up.

We’ll be using T1-11 for siding but since house wrap has to go down first, that is where we started. We quickly squared the wall up then stretch the house wrap tightly across the studs and stapled it down. You’ll notice that we are skipping sheathing the walls in OSB first, that’s because we’ll be using 5/8” siding which is thick enough to give the wall it’s sheer strength. This not only saves on time since we won’t have to skin the walls twice, but it also saves a little bit of cost.

Once we got the house wrap attached, we came back with the Tonge and groove T1-11 siding. And let me say that while it may seem the simpler option to skin the walls before standing them up, I don’t think it is. It does remove a lot of ladder work later, but it presents a whole new set of challenges and introduces a lot of points for mistakes. Such as making sure to compensate the correct amount for the double top plate that will later be added in, the siding overhang at the bottom, and the mating up of where two walls join together.

Doing it both ways now, I can honestly say I don’t think this route is any quicker and I also wouldn’t say it’s easier.

After getting done with each short section, we he-womened it off to the side to gain access to that bottom, larger wall.

We decided to only apply siding to two of the four walls because on one wall, the siding will land flush to its stud. but then the perpendicular wall’s siding will overlap it and be flush to it. That just seems sketchy to do until the walls are up and next to each other. So that’s why that other short wall only has house wrap and a cross brace on it, the brace keeping it in square.

Even though the wall isn’t too terribly heavy, it definitely required more than two sets of hands to get it stood up and braced. Thankfully, Anne has some awesome neighbors that were able to chip in. Three of us started standing up the wall, while a fourth person stood on the outside incase we needed some opposing pressure.

Now the siding overhangs the baseplate of the walls by about 1”, and this is to seal over the joint where the baseplate mates to the floor so that water won’t be able to get when it rains. With that, once we stood the wall mostly up, we had to move it forward enough for this lip to fall off the edge of the floor. Then we could line up the wall squarely to the floor then attach some bracing to hold it in place. We went with some extra 2x6s laying around and went directly from the outside stud to the foundation’s side wall.

You can’t see him, but one of the guys is checking for plumb as Anne hammers in the nails. Oh, and we chose to use hammer and nails here because they are far easier to remove later on over nails shot in with the nailer.

We repeated on my side, first checking for plumb then securing it with a brace.

Even though we were losing day light, we were bound and determined to get the remaining two walls up before we called it quits. I mean this is the most exciting part of the build.

We ran into a small problem with the brace of the wall interfering with the brace holding up the large wall, so we switch the brace holding square to the inside of this short wall then continued nailing it in place.

Then we placed a brace in the center of the large wall going down to a cleat on the ground because we discovered we wouldn’t have enough room to move the other short wall into place with the side brace located where it was. Again, the job site was a little cramped but we totally made it work.

The last thing we did that day with the little bit of daylight we had left was cut all the studs and cripples for the last remaining wall. This way the next morning we could start right in with building out the wall.

We once again used the floor as a work surface to build the walls, and decided to build it in two parts to make standing it up on our own easier. This wall will have a giant double door opening as well as a window framed in. With breaking the wall into two, we framed then house wrapped one section, moved it into place then repeated with the second. Or actually, since this second section is mostly door opening we didn’t bother house wrapping it before standing it up. But you will notice that we made a temporary scab piece to span the bottom of the door opening just to stabilize it as we moved it into place.

After plumbing this final wall, we secured it to the two side walls, then came back and cut out that bottom scab piece.

Next we attached the second top plate. The reason you don’t do this in the initially framing step is because you want to use it as a way to tie the four walls together and you can only do that once they are all four standing. I can show you what I mean in the model I sketched up a little bit easier. See this top plate ends at the wall, but the second top plate connects not only to this wall but also it’s neighboring wall.

And with the majority of the four walls done, we came back with house wrap on this last section. With it having a door in it, I cut two diagonal lines from both top corners down to the center, to create a V. Then wrapped the loose ends up or around the wall. Once things were tight I stapled them in place then cut off the remainder.

Now all the seams in the house wrap need to be tapped over so next we went around all four sides and taped every horizontal and vertical seam.

And that is where I’ll have to stop for this one. If it isn’t obvious from the video footage, Anne and I had a blast building this. If you are interested in seeing more then I recommend checking out Anne’s video on the build, linked for you down below here. And of course also stay tuned for my next video where I’ll continue on with the build process.

I hope y’all enjoyed this one, I hope you learned something, and I hope you’re building something of your own. See you soon.

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ronaldbosieyiii · 6 years

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The Future Has Arrived: Battery Powered Bolt Cutters From Ryobi!

Well, as the title points out, the future really has arrived in the form of this gnarly set of battery operated bolt cutters from Ryobi. The most shocking part of the entire story: The Home Depot will trade you one hundred American dollars for one of these tools….and it works like a champ : ) I wasn’t a true believer when I saw this tool coming up for review but now that I’ve gotten to beat on it a little bit I can tell you I’m totally on board with reaching for this set of cutters the next time I need to cut through a piece of chain, bolt, pad lock, or any other round material I can stuff in it’s jaws. Here’s what I learned about it:

At 16-1/2” inches long and about 7 lbs in weight, it’s no small tool and feels a bit like a mini-ordinance launcher in your hand. At that point it’s not hard to keep a hold of with the ultra grippy texturized rubber that’s overmolded throughout the entire body of the tool. Ryobi simplified the trigger mechanism by giving you two directional buttons for opening and closing the jaws keeping you in positive control of the closing action.

Speaking of, lets take a closer look at these jaws on this cordless bolt cutter. The jaws are made from forged steel which undergo a custom heat treating process to increase the surface hardness of the blade material. Ryobi doesn’t share with us the exact hardness of the jaws but it’s safe to estimate them somewhere around the high 40’s on the Rockwell C scale.

Ryobi recommends not cutting anything above 3/8 of an inch but you may get away with cutting soft 1/2” if you’re patient with the cut. If you’re cutting 3/8 stock, Ryobi recommends sticking with a softer grade alloy and steering clear of hard material such as a grade 8. However, it will handle 1/4” hard materials just fine.

So how’s it cut??….actually, it cuts pretty darn well. I cut a variety of materials to get an idea of the cutting power of these little jaws. Take a look at the materials down below:

7/32 Zinc J bolt – No problems at all. One pass separation.

1/4 -20 Zinc Bolt – No problems at all. One pass separation.

.190” Stainless Ring – Slower than previous materials, grunts, but cut in one single pass.

1/4-20 Grade 8 – Grunted, stalled slightly just before ultimate failure.

5/16 Hard Steel Pad Lock – (~40-45 HRC) – Surprisingly well! Grunted once, stopped the motor, squeezed again, jaws cut material on second squeeze.

3/8-16 Zinc Bolt – Required stepwise cut. Squeeze trigger until jaws stopped, release, repeated twice until the jaws fully parted the material.

So you probably get the idea here. If you plan to employ this tool for some medium to light duty metal cutting on something like metal shelving, bolt tails, light duty chain and so on, chances are it will perform perfectly for your needs. Occasional pad lock cutting for someone who owns a storage building facility would fit pretty well in the operational range of these electric cutters but you may be getting close to it’s limits. Finally, if you’re interested in cutting something like rebar in a production or job site capacity, you may need to look into something with a few more buck-wheats as the motor will not be able to push through it….something tells me a big brother option is on the horizon however…

Two more things worth pointing out are the replaceable jaws and the work horse of a battery that powers this rig. Working this tool as a replacement bolt cutter for your company or business is probably gonna require replacing the jaws at some point along the journey. Ryobi has you covered here with replacement jaws available through Ryobi. Simply remove the stockers by backing out the two 1/4” bolts which hold the jaws in place, slide in a new set, and you’re back in the race. Following all of the material I cut up to this point, the only physical damage I can see is superficial in the paint and shows little to no real deformation at all.

On the other hand this 6.0 Ah battery is one you can push until you’re little hearts content and may very well outlive you and I both. This battery is optimized for the entire line of Ryobi ONE+ products and features a built in fuel gage so you’re always one button away from understanding the current charge level. With the 6.0 Ah battery installed, Ryobi reports a working potential of over 200 cuts per charge with this particular tool.

Thanks for stopping by to learn a bit more about this fun new tool from Ryobi; I really appreciate it. This review was provided in support of the ProSpective Campaign sponsored by The Home Depot. They supply the tool and I supply an opinion. The links in this review are affiliate links and provide a small kick-back to the website which helps to keep the wheel turning. Regardless, I genuinely appreciate your support.

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