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SARPECH
This Sarpech from Rajasthan is of uncut diamonds and elongated emerald drops. It is topped by a paisley crest. Elaborate Jaipur enamel work covers the reverse of the ornament, not seen here.
On the wall-paintings at Ajanta may be seen similar head ornaments worn as tiaras by women 2000 years ago. However the Sarpech or Shirpej, meaning an adornment for the head, developed, in medieval India, as an ornament worn on princely turbans. It reached perfection in the courts of the Moghuls and the princes of Rajasthan. Moghul queens also wore a similar jewel, but by and large it developed as a predominantly male turban ornament.
The use of uncut stones in ornaments was popularised in the north by Moghul emperors who admired precious stones in their pristine and pure form. Enamelling reached its pinnacle of perfection in Jaipur, Maharaja Man Singh having brought five Sikh enamel workers from Lahore to his capital in the 16th century to develop this art.
KADA
In this pair of Kadas (Karas or bracelets) from Varanasi (Banaras), the inner side of each Kada is covered with floral designs of pink enamel, a specialty of Varanasi which is quite rare. On the outer side are uncut diamonds with the ends of each Kada ornamented by elephants with intertwined trunks.
Bangles and bracelets of different types were worn in the north such as the bangdi, churi, naugari, pahunchi, kangan, gaira, bartana, patri, dastband and kada. The Jehangiri, a stone-studded bracelet of Emperor Jehangir's court, was possibly designed by his queen, Nur Jehan herself.
Kadas could be hollow, solid, or filled with lac. The ends of the Kada were of different designs such as of two parrots, twin elephants etc. Stone-set Kadas are often covered with enamel on one side, the method used usually being the champleve. The goldsmith carves out the design after which the enamel is painted or brushed into the hollows. It is then fixed in place by fire, a very difficult art.
VANKI
The Vanki, or armlet of South India shown here, is inlaid with rose-cut diamonds, cabochon rubies and emeralds. An effect of coiled snakes is seen in the gold work on either side in the lower part of the Vanki. Two parrots lead up to the top of the Vanki from which drops a typical lotus-motif pendant.
Different types of armlets called the bajuband or bazuband are worn in different parts of India. However the Vanki of South India is unique because of its inverted-V-shaped design. From old paintings and sculptures, it appears that its origin can be traced to Naga or snake worship. Some of the earliest Vankis can be seen on figures of Lord Krishna as a child, the more ancient figures in wood and stones having a hooded cobra crowning the ornament. The connection between Ananta the snake, on whom lies Vishnu, whose avatar or incarnation was Krishna, is evident.
The shape of the Vanki is such that if fits over the arm without any strain or pressure.
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