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elleharperbcu · 3 years

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Lifestyle

Critical thinking lectures:

How has lifestyle, industrial & social changes impacted fashion & textiles?

In today’s lecture we gained understanding of what has influenced and impacted fashion and textiles in the past, in order to predict what will happen to the fashion and textiles industries in the future.

We started by exploring historical aspects that have driven these changes, to start to interpret the significance that these influential factors will play on the future of the fashion & textile industries.

We watched a video on YouTube called “100 years of fashion: women” Published on 3 jun 2015. Were we discussed as a group what drives these changes.

The growth of the fashion industry, caused by the industrial revolution (1870-1900s) enabled the suffragettes to use fashion as a form of branding to help promote their cause.

“They are, of course, only following in the honourable tradition set over a century ago by the suffragettes, who harnessed fashion, and the meaning of colour, as methods of communication in the early days of photography. In 1908 Emmeline Pethick-Lawrence devised the scheme of purple for dignity, white for purity and green for hope - branding for the cause, which triggered Liberty and Selfridges to start selling ranges of tricolour ribbon, underwear, bags and soap. Christina Broom…documented marches of thousands of suffragists and suffragettes wearing white dresses designed to prove to the country the dignity of their cause.”

The Guardian Cally Blackman 8.10.15 How the Suffragettes used fashion to further the cause.

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2015/oct/08/suffragette-style-movement-embraced-fashion-branding

1940’s

Utility Clothing Scheme: aimed to save fabric by using economical designs, eliminating laborious technical details and limiting the choice of fabrics - all to save costs.

BBC News 5.3.2015 How did WW2 change the way people dressed?

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-31719704

1942

“Make Do and Mend was a pamphlet issued by the British Ministry of Information in the midst of WWII. It was intended to provide housewives with useful tips on how to be both frugal and stylish in times of harsh rationing. With its thrifty design ideas and advice on reusing old clothing, the pamphlet was an indispensable guide for households. Readers were advised to create pretty ‘decorative patches’ to cover holes in warm garments; unpick old jumpers to re-knit chic alternatives; turn men’s clothes into women’s; as well as darn, alter and protect against the ‘moth menace’.

Manage with and repair the possessions one already has rather than buying replacements. "the austerity of the war years taught her to make do and mend" British Library, Learning resources https://www.bl.uk/learning/timeline/item106365.html

Examples of “make do and mend” women’s suit made out of a man’s pin stripe suit, a child’s cloak made from an old blanket.

BBC News 5.3.2015 How did WW2 change the way people dressed? Fashion on the Ration is at the Imperial War Museum, London, until 31 August 2015.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-31719704

The “New Look” exploded in Paris in 1947 (in contrast to the utilitarian approach adopted in the war) lead by the pioneering designer Christian Dior, who empowered women through fashion.

“Throughout the war, cloth and labour shortages had limited the amount of fabric and trimming that could be used… jackets had been masculine, shoulders square and skirts short and straight… belts, seams, collars and trouser turn-ups had to conform to certain restrictions …” Yet, only two years after the end of the war, here were ankle-length skirts whose hems measured up to 40 metres in circumference. Here was a fashion that emphasised femininity, with rounded shoulders, waists nipped in tight, and hips and busts exaggerated by bodices and padding.

The New Looks striking stylistic legacy lived on well into the 1960s.

https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/the-look-that-shocked-the-world-1278048.html

https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/events/how-haute-couture-rescued-war-torn-paris/

”Women, with their sure instincts, realized that my intention was to make not just more beautiful but also happier,” said Dior: A businessman as well as a poet, he made fashion responsible for expressing society's desires, and showed it how to communicate…” ref book Dior

My weakness ... is architecture. I think of my work as ephemeral architecture, dedicated to the beauty of the female body.

http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-history/1950s-1960s/

Assouline publishing 2004 Dior Marie - France Pochna

Working in groups based on the following decades: 1960s, 1970s, 1980s, 1990s and 2000s. In our group we researched fashion in the 2000s. We made a mind map that considered the above influencing factors that have impacted on the fashion designers from this decade. We recorded the effect of these causes and how they have driven the design, materials and production at this time.

2000s Fashion:

Casual clothing and leisurewear were big trends in the early 2000s, a casual look for women would have been, crop tops, hoodies, low-rise flared jeans, cargo pants, daisy dukes, jean skirts, off the shoulder tops, ribbed sweaters, with platform sandals, ugg boots, or sneakers.

After researching I found technology and Y2K bug (problem in the coding of computerized systems that was projected to create havoc in computers and computer networks around the world at the beginning of the year 2000) had a huge impact on fashion in the early 2000s. The colour palette was full of shiny black tones and reflective metallics. The Y2K trend was worn on a daily but mainly reserved for going out. Popular outfits for women included mesh or handkerchief tops, box-pleated or leather skirts, shiny pants, and sparkly shoes. Britney Spears was a trendsetter for this type of style. For men, Y2K looks involved leather jackets, a statement dress shirt, and chunky shoes.

Mid 2000s fashion - Fashion started to take cues from 1960s bohemian looks. Yoga pants, low-rise jeans, cowl-neck shirts, peasant tops, capri pants, cropped jackets, and dresses over jeans was a popular outfit choice for women. These outfits were paired with accessories, such as, chunky belts, aviator sunglasses, jelly bracelets, ties worn around the neck or as belts, ballet flats, and platform boots. The 1960s revival looks were also popular with men. Including light wash bootcut jeans, cargo shorts, classic rock t-shirt, fitted cowboy shirts, henleys, polos with popped collars, and seersucker suits.

Late 2000s fashion - For women, crop tops were replaced with camisoles and miniskirts, bubble skirt, and sweater dresses. There was also a 1980s and 1990s revival of neon colours, animal prints, geometric shapes, light denim jeggings, and ripped acid washed jeans that were worn with gladiator sandals, ballet flats, and headbands. The oversized look became popular, but it was more subtle than the traditional 80s fit. Men’s late 2000s fashion was a mix of 1950s and 1980s throwbacks, with letterman and black leather jackets, overcoats, slim cut jeans, Ed Hardy t-shirts, flannel shirts, and V-neck sweaters. Paired with dad hats, wayfarers or aviators, motorcycle boots, converse, vans, or sneakers.

Hip-Hop had a influence on the 2000s fashion, many rappers influenced fashion with their own clothing lines. Including Jay-Z, Diddy, Nelly, and 50 Cent. Many looks included baggy jeans, tall t-shirts, sports jerseys, velour suits, bubble jackets, and puffer vests paired with headbands, sweatshirts, Timberland boots, and sneakers like Adidas Superstars or Nike Air Force 1s.

Streetwear is brand focused casual clothing, like jeans, tees, and sneakers. In the late 2000s popular streetwear styles included distressed skinny jeans, loose fitting tops, loose or fitted tracksuits, track pants, hoodies, graphic t-shirts, vintage thrift shop tees, and Tommy Hilfiger and U.S. Polo Assn brands. Sneakers were an important part of the style, retro Nike Air Jordans and Adidas Yeezys.

Emo fashion became popular in the mid 2000s and took cues from goth and punk styles. Outfits were often all or mainly black with skinny jeans, band t-shirts, studded belts, and checkered vans. Every emo look was completed with the right hairstyle, choppy cuts with long side-swept bangs dyed black, platinum blonde, or a bright colour.

Athleisure Wear - If you wanted to be comfortable yet fashionable in the early 2000s the velor tracksuits was the go to. Britney Spears, Beyonce and Eminem to Diddy were on on the tracksuit craze. They were brightly coloured and emblazoned with rhinestone logos and phrases. It was also in to mix track pants with dress clothing and design shoes to elevate the look.

The Beatles were one of the most influential bands in history, taking their fans on a journey of fashion styles through the decades from rock to teddy boys to hippie years.

(1962-1964) - (1964-1966)

Did technology play a part in influencing this style?

During this lecture we watched a video called The Beatles Yellow Submarine.

Exaggerated shoulder pads epitomises the Power Dressing of the 1980’s.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOlwwoZLoKE&feature=youtu.be

In the 1980s Power Dressing in the UK grew from a new money focused generation, in London, creating a bee style. This look was patented by shows such as Dynasty and Dallas, where actors such as Joan Collins and Linda Evans dressed as female power dresses. Shoulder-pads and sharply tailored suits ruled and has been continued to be used by women today to signify power.

https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/what-is-power-dressing-1807353.html

THATCHER USED FASHION AS A POLITICAL TOOL

“With ‘power dressing’ she could tap into the image of a career woman but her reputation as a fierce leader then drove her to wear clothes that might ‘soften’ her image, which was why she wore pussy bow blouses. A symbol of the past reflecting a more conservative femininity, the pussy bow blouse clashed with the aggressive power suits. “This was the paradox of the Thatcher image: at once she sought to embody conservative values while also seeking to assert her right to power as a woman. Dr Tyan”

https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/margaret-thatcher-clothes-dress-suits-power-dressing-fashion-impact-women-victoria-and-albert-museum-a7480026.html

Margaret Thatcher: Fashion as a Political Tool

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qynZ0NEHH4M&feature=youtu.be

How did Margaret Thatcher change Britain:

Privatisation

London became a leading financial capital

Open all hours

The decline of the north

Lessened role of trade unions

Northern Ireland peace process

Education reforms – league tables

Home ownership

Power dressing

Prestige for armed forces (Falklands)

Transformed Labour party

Julian Coman Sun 14 Apr 2013 10.00 BST https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2013/apr/14/margaret-thatcher-20-changes-britain

My own research on Margaret Thatcher -

When looking at pictures of Margaret Thatcher, after the election in 1979, a well-dressed woman with her individual style is clearly shown. She began to create her image and appearance as an example of how women in power should dress. Thatcher was a confident and stern business woman however there was a clear contrast to the feminine clothing she wore. She used her clothing and style as an act of self - definition that disguised herself from others showing her individual identity as Prime Minister. Thatcher styled herself appropriately for political occasions, the most occuring colour Thatcher wore was royal blue. With her power suits and the legendary pussybow blouses, that made her a fashion icon, she was known for her haircut, her pearls, and her handbag. Her hairstyle was one of the famous features of Margaret Thatcher, as straight and precise as the lady herself.

One great example on how her style, outfits and political power were set together was before she became Prime Minister. Thatcher wore hats because not only they suited her well but were symbols of her status and class. As the leader of a major political party, her hats seemed to be a political problem. It was a problem because middle class people with conventional attitudes were prejudiced towards her. This was not the picture of a leader the party wanted to draw. Consequently, after her election to British Prime Minister she only wore hats for State ceremonies and foreign tours but not on polictail occasions anymore.

The Fashion World Supports Pussy Riot

Fashion empowered to dictate and influence world events and social changes

17th April 2015 Jamie Waters Fashion’s most iconic political statements; The fashion world supports pussy riot & we’d rather go naked than wear fur.

https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/24414/1/fashion-s-most-iconic-political-statements

https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/clothing-fashion-protest

In pairs with reference to the timeline identify another advancement in technology that has impacted on social events, which in turn has driven a change in the fashion industry?

....

Brand Report

In groups we researched information about the brand Lazy Oaf, we created a detailed report which covers each of the 8 elements that make a band pitch. These elements include: Vision & purpose, brand identity, customer, price, product, place, promotion and packaging. In our group we decided to each choose an element to research and talk about, I picked promotion.

Lazy Oaf’s Brand Identity is definitely something I would take away and incorporate into our brand. We want to create personal products that our customers love and respect. Minimize environmental hazards through being sustainable but with fair prices. We also discussed as a group giving back to charities with a percentage of money we make as a brand.

This group task gave us practice with working together, assigning roles and discussing information online. We decided to split the work fairly so that everyone had an equal amount of work to research and present. As we had to present this group task to our peers it helped us practice for when we present our brand.

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