#Westbound Pioneer Adventure

[iincantatorum]

more on the wild west AU for Delia: 

The American Old West, also known as the American frontier or the Wild West, means the history, geography, people, and culture of life in the Western United States. This often referring to the period of the later half of the 19th century, between the American Civil War and the end of the century. See the fact file below for more information and facts about The Wild West.

The American Wild West took place in the Western United States, just about anywhere west of the Mississippi River. It occurred in the early part of the 19th century and lasted until the end of the Mexican Revolution in 1920.

Many conflicts were occurring as people moved further onto the lands occupied by Native American tribes. The people moving onto to these lands claimed the land as their land. The Native American didn’t believe that anyone could own land. They believed the land was there for everyone to use and enjoy.

In 1877, Congress passed the Desert Land Act which permitted settlers to purchase up to 640 acres of public land at 25 cents an acre. This occurred in areas where the climate required large-scale farming. Settlers were required to properly irrigate the land they purchased. Thousands of people moved west to take advantage of this opportunity. Wagon trains moved many settlers.

The American west had all sorts of people including pioneers, business people, scouts, lawmen, outlaws, gangs, gunslingers, and cowboys. Most of these people had one thing in common… they were looking for an opportunity and they weren’t afraid of adventure.

No one has any way of actually knowing how many Native American people inhabited North America before exploration on the continent began, but some estimates go as high as 100 million people. There were 240 Native American tribes which spoke 300 different languages.

Many legends have come out of the Old West, but none as big as the outlaws. Some of the most famous outlaws were: Billy the Kid, Belle Starr, Bill Doolin, Black Bart, Dalton Brothers, Jesse James, Frank James, Curly Bill, Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Some of the famous lawmen were: Bat Masterson, Wyatt Earp, Pat Garrett, Wild Bill Hickok, and Bill Tilghman.

In 1867, the first cattle drive from Texas up the Chisholm Trail arrived at the rail yards of Abilene, Kansas.

Another big part of the Old West was the Wild West Show. Buffalo Bill created a wild west show that included a rodeo and sharpshooting. One of his most famous sharpshooter was a woman. Her name was Annie Oakley.

The Pony Express officially began on April 3, 1860. The Pony Express consisted of relays of men riding horses carrying saddlebags of mail across a 2000-mile trail from St. Joseph, Missouri to Sacramento, California. The first westbound trip was made in 9 days and 23 hours and the eastbound journey in 11 days and 12 hours. The pony riders covered 250 miles in a 24-hour day. The Pony Express lasted only 19 months and ended on October 24, 1861, when the Pacific Telegraph was completed. Before it ended, the Pony Express had more than 100 stations, 80 riders, and between 400 and 500 horses. The express route was extremely hazardous, but only one mail delivery was ever lost.

In 1874, Joseph Glidden received a patent for his invention of barbed wire. The fencing changed farming and ranching in the Wild West.

[easyfoodnetwork]

To Find Hope in American Cooking, James Beard Looked to the West Coast

James Beard in 1972 | Photo by Arthur Schatz/Life Magazine/The LIFE Picture Collection via Getty Images

In an excerpt from The Man Who Ate Too Much, the culinary icon returns to his hometown and begins to articulate his vision for American cuisine

James Beard looms large in the American culinary canon. The name is now synonymous with the awards, known as the highest honors in American food, and the foundation behind them. But before his death in 1985, well before the existence of the foundation and the awards, Beard was a culinary icon. In The Man Who Ate Too Much: The Life of James Beard, John Birdsall tells Beard’s life story, highlighting how Beard’s queerness contributed to the concept of American cuisine he introduced to a generation of cooks.

Beard’s ascent to food-world fame wasn’t immediate. He came to food after an attempt at a life as a performer, and following a stint in catering and a gig hosting his own cooking show, Beard’s early cookbooks weren’t smash hits, his point of view not yet fully evolved. In this excerpt from The Man Who Ate Too Much, Beard embarks on a cookbook-planning trip through the American West, including his hometown of Portland, Oregon, with new friend and collaborator Helen Evans Brown and her husband, Philip. It’s there, after a whirlwind 25 days of eating (which read as especially envy inducing now), that Beard begins to define American cuisine for himself and, eventually, the country. — Monica Burton

The Man Who Ate Too Much is out on October 6; buy it at Amazon or Bookshop.

American cooks in the early 1950s were in the grip of frenzy. Shiny new grills and rotisserie gadgets, advertised like cars, loaded with the latest features, were everywhere. Outdoor equipment and appliance manufacturers rushed to market with portable backyard barbecues and plug-in kitchen roasters, meant to give Americans everywhere — even dwellers in tight city apartments — an approximate taste of grilled patio meat.

Postwar technology and American manufacturing prowess propelled infrared broilers such as the Cal Dek and the Broil-Quik. An Air Force officer, Brigadier General Harold A. Bartron, retired to Southern California in 1948 and spent his time in tactical study of a proprietary rotisserie with a self-balancing spit. He named it the Bartron Grill.

There was the Smokadero stove and Big Boy barbecue. There were enclosed vertical grills with radiant heat, hibachis from post-occupation Japan, and the Skotch Grill, a portable barbecue with a red tartan design that looked like an ice bucket.

In New York City, the high-end adventure outfitter Abercrombie and Fitch and the kitchen emporiums of big department stores did a bustling business in these new symbols of postwar meat consumption. There was even an Upper East Side shop solely dedicated to them, Smoke Cookery, Inc. on East Fiftieth Street. The only trouble was that many buyers of these shiny new grown-up toys had no clue how to cook in them.

For weeks in the spring of 1953, Helen tested electric broiler recipes, an assignment from Hildegarde Popper, food editor of House & Garden magazine, for a story called “Everyday Broils.” A few broiler and rotisserie manufacturers sent their new models to Armada Drive for Helen to try.

“The subject turns out to be a huge one,” Helen wrote Popper; she had enough material to break the story into two parts. “Jim Beard, of cook book fame, was here when my rotisserie arrived,” she told Popper, “and he was a great help to me.”

Word got around the New York editor pool. Suddenly, Helen and James seemed the ideal collaborators, storywise, to cover the new subject of grill and rotisserie cooking: West Coast and East, female and male, California suburban patio cook and Manhattan bachelor gourmet.

Meanwhile, cookbook publishing was surging. Doubleday became the first house to hire a fulltime editor, Clara Claasen, to fill its stable with cookery authors.

Schaffner took Claasen to lunch to discuss how he might be able to help. “She is very much interested in the idea of an outdoors cookbook,” he wrote to Helen afterward. “This would combine barbecue, picnic, sandwich, campfire and every other aspect of outdoor eating.” Schaffner and Claasen lunched again. James and Helen’s “cooks’ controversy” idea had run out of gas (Schaffner hated the idea anyway, especially after reading first drafts of a few Beard–Brown “letters”), so Schaffner managed to steer Claasen toward a different kind of collaboration for his two clients.

In November 1953, Helen flew to New York. She and Schaffner met with Claasen at the Doubleday offices. On a handshake, in the absence of James (who only the day before had returned from France on the Queen Elizabeth), they decided on a collaboration: an outdoor cookery book to be authored by Helen Evans Brown and James A. Beard.

Everyone was happy: Schaffner for nailing a deal for two clients at once; Claasen for bringing new talent to Doubleday. Helen was getting what she needed: a book with a major publisher. James was getting what he wanted: a reason to get even closer to Helen. Perhaps this was only the first in a long future of collaborations; they might one day even open a kitchen shop together and sell a line of their own jams and condiments. The possibilities were endless.

Claasen was eager to draw up a formal contract. All she needed from Helen and James was an outline.

Under the glowing cabin lights of a westbound red-eye flight on April 3, 1954, James found himself eerily alone. TWA’s Super Constellation was an enormous propliner with seats for nearly a hundred passengers; that night, James was one of only four. He planned to rendezvous with the Browns in San Francisco later that week, but only after he took five days on his own in the city he’d loved as a boy. From there, the three of them would embark on a weeks-long research trip in the Browns’ Coronet convertible, stopping at wineries and cheese factories throughout Northern California, Oregon, Washington, and Idaho. Helen needed to do research for a magazine article she’d long wanted to write. She and Philip had asked James to join them five months earlier, in December 1953.

Nearly a decade after the end of the war, San Francisco was a place of resuscitated glamour, with much of the shimmer and confidence James had known in the city of his youth, when he and Elizabeth would ride the trains of the Shasta Route south.

His plane landed in drizzling rain. For his first luncheon of the trip, James chose a place of old comfort: the dim, wood-paneled Fly Trap on Sutter Street. He wore a suit of windowpane-check tweed (the jacket button straining above his stomach, his thin bow tie slightly askew), eating cold, cracked Dungeness and sautéed sand dabs. The stationery in his room at the Palace had an engraving across the top, an illustration of pioneers trudging next to oxen pulling a Conestoga wagon. Above them floated an apparition: the hotel’s neoclassical façade rising from the fog. “At the end of the trail,” it read, “stands the Palace Hotel.” James imagined himself the son of the pioneer he’d fancied his father to be. Was he now at the end of something or the beginning?

Courtesy W.W. Norton

Helen Evans Brown

He spent his days and nights eating: A luncheon of poulet sauté with Dr. A. L. Van Meter of the San Francisco branch of the Wine and Food Society (they had met on the French wine junket in 1949); dinner at the Pacific Heights home of Frank Timberlake, vice president of Guittard Chocolate; a trip to San Jose to tour the Almaden Winery and meet its owner, Louis Benoist, over a marvelous lunch of pâté, asparagus mousseline, and an omelet. James dined at the Mark Hopkins with Bess Whitcomb, his abiding mentor from the old Portland Civic Theatre days — she lived in Berkeley now and taught drama at a small college. She wore her silver hair in a short crop; her gaze was warm and deep as ever.

Helen and Philip arrived on Sunday, and on Monday the tour began with a day trip. Philip drove the Coronet across the Golden Gate Bridge north to the Napa Valley, with Helen riding shotgun and James colonizing the bench seat in back. The afternoon temperature crested in the mid-seventies and the hills were still green from winter rain. Masses of yellow wild-mustard flowers filled the vineyards. They tasted at the big four — Inglenook, Beaulieu, Charles Krug, and Louis Martini — and lunched with a winery publicist on ravioli, chicken with mushrooms, and small, sweet spring peas. James kept a detailed record of their meals in his datebook. Elena Zelayeta, the San Francisco cookbook author and radio personality, cooked them enchiladas suizas and chiffon cake.

Next day they crossed the bridge again but swung west from Highway 101 to visit the farm town of Tomales, not much more than a main street of stores and a filling station. Among the rise of green hills dotted with cows, at the farm and creamery of Louis Bononci, James had his first taste of Teleme, a washed-rind cheese with a subtly elastic texture and milky tang. Within its thin crust dusted with rice flour, James recognized the richness and polish of an old French cheese, crafted in an American setting of rusted pickups and ranchers perched on stools at diner counters. It stirred his senses and revived his love for green meadows with the cool, damp feel of Pacific fog lurking somewhere off the coast.

Philip drove west to the shore of fingerlike Tomales Bay, where they lunched on abalone and a smorgasbord that included the local Jack cheese and even more Teleme.

The car had become a mad ark of food.

The road stretched north along the coast: to Langlois, Oregon, with its green, tree-flocked hills converging in a shallow valley, where they stopped at Hans Hansen’s experimental Star Ranch. Born in Denmark, Hansen spent decades making Cheddar. In 1939, with scientists at Iowa State University and Oregon State College, Hansen had begun experimenting with what would be known as Langlois Blue Vein Cheese, a homogenized cows’-milk blue inoculated with Roquefort mold spores. (Production would eventually move to Iowa, where the cheese would be known as Maytag Blue.)

They hit Reedsport, Coquille, Coos Bay, Newport, Cloverdale, Bandon, and Tillamook. They stopped at cheese factories, candy shops, butchers’ counters, produce stands, and markets. Already stuffed with suitcases, the Coronet’s trunk became jammed with wine bottles and jars of honey and preserves; packets of sausage, dried fruit, nuts, and candy. The backseat around James filled up with bottles that rolled and clinked together on turns, with apples, tangerines, filberts, pears, and butcher-paper packets of sliced cured meat, smoked oysters, and hunks of Cheddar. The car had become a mad ark of food. James hauled anything regional and precious on board, as if later it would all prove to have been a myth if he didn’t carry some away as proof that it existed.

In Tualatin, south of Portland, they dropped in on James’s old friends from theater days, Mabelle and Ralph Jeffcott. To a crowd that included Mary Hamblet and her ailing mother, Grammie, Mabelle served baked shad and jellied salad, apple crisp, and the homemade graham bread — molasses-sweet and impossibly light — that was famous among her friends.

They lunched on fried razor clams and coleslaw at the Crab Broiler in Astoria and had martinis, kippered tuna, salmon cheeks, and Indian pudding at the Seaside cottage of James’s beloved friend Harvey Welch.

In Gearhart, James trudged out to Strawberry Knoll, walked across the dunes and onto the beach. He regarded Tillamook Head, just as he did as a boy at the start of summers. He felt a weird convergence of past and present: the sting of sand whipping his face and the smell of charred driftwood lingering in the rock-circled dugout pits of ancient cookouts.

For James, the Northwest displayed a delightfully slouchy elegance he’d almost forgotten about in New York. It had taste without snobbery. At the Pancake House in Portland, they brunched on Swedish pancakes with glasses of buttermilk and French 75 cocktails — the sort of high–low mix he had aimed for at Lucky Pierre. Why did Easterners have so much trouble grasping the idea?

Before a meal of roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, they sipped a simple pheasant broth that, dolled up with half a dozen gaudy garnishes and called Consommé Louis-Philippe, would have been the jewel of Jack and Charlie’s “21” in New York. Food here had honesty. It declared what it was. Like James, it was anti-“gourmet.” Its purity was the ultimate elegance.

Thus far, James had fumbled at articulating a true American cooking. He’d taken rustic French dishes, called them by English names, and substituted American ingredients. There was something crude about such an approach. This trip had showed him American food made on French models — Gamay grapes and Roquefort spores and cheeses modeled on Camembert and Emmenthaler that tasted wonderful and were reaching for unique expressions, not just impersonating European originals. It had given James a clearer vision of American food taking root in the places it grew.

As a boy, he had glimpsed this with Chinese cooking, how a relative of the Kan family, a rural missionary, adapted her cooking to the ingredients at hand in the Oregon countryside. How her Chinese dishes took root there, blossomed into something new; how they became American.

They trekked to Seattle, where the Browns went to a hotel and James stayed with John Conway, his theater-director friend from the Carnegie Institute days. John’s wife, Dorothy, was a photographer. She shot formal portraits of James and Helen in the Conways’ kitchen — maybe Doubleday would use one as the author photo for the outdoor cookbook. They took an aerial tour of oyster beds and wandered Pike’s Place Market.

Philip then steered the Coronet eastward across Washington, through the town of Cashmere in the foothills of the Cascades, where they stopped at a diner for cube steak, cottage cheese, and pie that James noted as “wonderful” in his datebook. In Idaho, at a place called Templin’s Grill near Coeur d’Alene, they found excellent steak and hash browns. There was a Basque place along the way that made jellied beef sausage, and a diner in Idaho Falls with “fabulous” fried chicken and, as James scribbled in his daybook, “biscuits light as a feather.” The fried hearts and giblets were so delicious they bought a five-pound sack to stuff in the hotel fridge and eat in the car next day for lunch.

“Drinks, Steaks, Drinks!”

The squat, industrial-looking Star Valley Swiss Cheese Factory in Thayne, Wyoming, with a backdrop of snow on the Wellsville Mountains, produced what James thought was the best Emmenthaler-style cheese he’d tasted outside of France, but this was American cheese. They had delicious planked steak and rhubarb tart in Salt Lake City, but bad fried chicken and awful pie in Winnemucca, Nevada, was the beginning of a sad coda to their journey.

Soon they were in Virginia City, home of Lucius Beebe — brilliant, bitchy, rich, alcoholic Lucius Beebe, dear friend to Jeanne Owen and the Browns and dismissive of James from the minute they met in New York City fifteen years back.

Lucius enjoyed the life of a magnifico in the nabob splendor of the Comstock Lode, among the graceful wooden neo-Renaissance mansions, peeling in the searing Nevada sun, built by nineteenth-century silver barons. His husband in all respects, save the marriage license and church wedding, was Chuck Clegg. Chuck was quarterback-handsome and courtly, in contrast to bloated, prickly Lucius. Helen and Philip were fond of them. They wanted to linger for a few days, which turned into four days of heavy drinking and blasting wit, much of it at James’s expense.

“Drinks, Steaks, Drinks!” James wrote in his daybook. He disliked Virginia City, with its steep hills one couldn’t climb without wheezing. One day, they all had a picnic on the scrubby flank of a hill, under a brutal sun. Chuck and Lucius brought a Victorian hamper filled with fine china plates, Austrian crystal, silver, and antique damask napkins. They ate cold boned leg of lamb and beans cooked with port. They lingered so long, over so many bottles of Champagne, that James’s head became badly sunburned. Back at the motel, Philip, drunk, tried splashing James’s head with gin, hoping it would bring cooling relief. Everyone cackled at his plight.

Finally, twenty-five days after they set out from San Francisco, Philip steered the Coronet home to Pasadena.

“The trip is one of the most happy and valuable memories of my life,” he wrote to Schaffner from Pasadena. “I garnered a great deal of material, had a most nostalgic time in parts of the west most familiar to me and saw much I had never seen before. It was splendid, gastronomically speaking, to be able to see that there is hope in American cooking.”

The best and most interesting food in America was inseparable from the landscapes that produced it. It was all right there, in country diners and small-town grocers’ shops; in roadside dinner houses and bakeries. All you needed to do was look.

From The Man Who Ate Too Much: The Life of James Beard by John Birdsall. Copyright © 2020 by John Birdsall. Used by permission of W.W. Norton & Company, Inc.

from Eater - All https://ift.tt/3jsBSno https://ift.tt/34lwOuu

James Beard in 1972 | Photo by Arthur Schatz/Life Magazine/The LIFE Picture Collection via Getty Images

In an excerpt from The Man Who Ate Too Much, the culinary icon returns to his hometown and begins to articulate his vision for American cuisine

James Beard looms large in the American culinary canon. The name is now synonymous with the awards, known as the highest honors in American food, and the foundation behind them. But before his death in 1985, well before the existence of the foundation and the awards, Beard was a culinary icon. In The Man Who Ate Too Much: The Life of James Beard, John Birdsall tells Beard’s life story, highlighting how Beard’s queerness contributed to the concept of American cuisine he introduced to a generation of cooks.

Beard’s ascent to food-world fame wasn’t immediate. He came to food after an attempt at a life as a performer, and following a stint in catering and a gig hosting his own cooking show, Beard’s early cookbooks weren’t smash hits, his point of view not yet fully evolved. In this excerpt from The Man Who Ate Too Much, Beard embarks on a cookbook-planning trip through the American West, including his hometown of Portland, Oregon, with new friend and collaborator Helen Evans Brown and her husband, Philip. It’s there, after a whirlwind 25 days of eating (which read as especially envy inducing now), that Beard begins to define American cuisine for himself and, eventually, the country. — Monica Burton

The Man Who Ate Too Much is out on October 6; buy it at Amazon or Bookshop.

American cooks in the early 1950s were in the grip of frenzy. Shiny new grills and rotisserie gadgets, advertised like cars, loaded with the latest features, were everywhere. Outdoor equipment and appliance manufacturers rushed to market with portable backyard barbecues and plug-in kitchen roasters, meant to give Americans everywhere — even dwellers in tight city apartments — an approximate taste of grilled patio meat.

Postwar technology and American manufacturing prowess propelled infrared broilers such as the Cal Dek and the Broil-Quik. An Air Force officer, Brigadier General Harold A. Bartron, retired to Southern California in 1948 and spent his time in tactical study of a proprietary rotisserie with a self-balancing spit. He named it the Bartron Grill.

There was the Smokadero stove and Big Boy barbecue. There were enclosed vertical grills with radiant heat, hibachis from post-occupation Japan, and the Skotch Grill, a portable barbecue with a red tartan design that looked like an ice bucket.

In New York City, the high-end adventure outfitter Abercrombie and Fitch and the kitchen emporiums of big department stores did a bustling business in these new symbols of postwar meat consumption. There was even an Upper East Side shop solely dedicated to them, Smoke Cookery, Inc. on East Fiftieth Street. The only trouble was that many buyers of these shiny new grown-up toys had no clue how to cook in them.

For weeks in the spring of 1953, Helen tested electric broiler recipes, an assignment from Hildegarde Popper, food editor of House & Garden magazine, for a story called “Everyday Broils.” A few broiler and rotisserie manufacturers sent their new models to Armada Drive for Helen to try.

“The subject turns out to be a huge one,” Helen wrote Popper; she had enough material to break the story into two parts. “Jim Beard, of cook book fame, was here when my rotisserie arrived,” she told Popper, “and he was a great help to me.”

Word got around the New York editor pool. Suddenly, Helen and James seemed the ideal collaborators, storywise, to cover the new subject of grill and rotisserie cooking: West Coast and East, female and male, California suburban patio cook and Manhattan bachelor gourmet.

Meanwhile, cookbook publishing was surging. Doubleday became the first house to hire a fulltime editor, Clara Claasen, to fill its stable with cookery authors.

Schaffner took Claasen to lunch to discuss how he might be able to help. “She is very much interested in the idea of an outdoors cookbook,” he wrote to Helen afterward. “This would combine barbecue, picnic, sandwich, campfire and every other aspect of outdoor eating.” Schaffner and Claasen lunched again. James and Helen’s “cooks’ controversy” idea had run out of gas (Schaffner hated the idea anyway, especially after reading first drafts of a few Beard–Brown “letters”), so Schaffner managed to steer Claasen toward a different kind of collaboration for his two clients.

In November 1953, Helen flew to New York. She and Schaffner met with Claasen at the Doubleday offices. On a handshake, in the absence of James (who only the day before had returned from France on the Queen Elizabeth), they decided on a collaboration: an outdoor cookery book to be authored by Helen Evans Brown and James A. Beard.

Everyone was happy: Schaffner for nailing a deal for two clients at once; Claasen for bringing new talent to Doubleday. Helen was getting what she needed: a book with a major publisher. James was getting what he wanted: a reason to get even closer to Helen. Perhaps this was only the first in a long future of collaborations; they might one day even open a kitchen shop together and sell a line of their own jams and condiments. The possibilities were endless.

Claasen was eager to draw up a formal contract. All she needed from Helen and James was an outline.

Under the glowing cabin lights of a westbound red-eye flight on April 3, 1954, James found himself eerily alone. TWA’s Super Constellation was an enormous propliner with seats for nearly a hundred passengers; that night, James was one of only four. He planned to rendezvous with the Browns in San Francisco later that week, but only after he took five days on his own in the city he’d loved as a boy. From there, the three of them would embark on a weeks-long research trip in the Browns’ Coronet convertible, stopping at wineries and cheese factories throughout Northern California, Oregon, Washington, and Idaho. Helen needed to do research for a magazine article she’d long wanted to write. She and Philip had asked James to join them five months earlier, in December 1953.

Nearly a decade after the end of the war, San Francisco was a place of resuscitated glamour, with much of the shimmer and confidence James had known in the city of his youth, when he and Elizabeth would ride the trains of the Shasta Route south.

His plane landed in drizzling rain. For his first luncheon of the trip, James chose a place of old comfort: the dim, wood-paneled Fly Trap on Sutter Street. He wore a suit of windowpane-check tweed (the jacket button straining above his stomach, his thin bow tie slightly askew), eating cold, cracked Dungeness and sautéed sand dabs. The stationery in his room at the Palace had an engraving across the top, an illustration of pioneers trudging next to oxen pulling a Conestoga wagon. Above them floated an apparition: the hotel’s neoclassical façade rising from the fog. “At the end of the trail,” it read, “stands the Palace Hotel.” James imagined himself the son of the pioneer he’d fancied his father to be. Was he now at the end of something or the beginning?

Courtesy W.W. Norton

Helen Evans Brown

He spent his days and nights eating: A luncheon of poulet sauté with Dr. A. L. Van Meter of the San Francisco branch of the Wine and Food Society (they had met on the French wine junket in 1949); dinner at the Pacific Heights home of Frank Timberlake, vice president of Guittard Chocolate; a trip to San Jose to tour the Almaden Winery and meet its owner, Louis Benoist, over a marvelous lunch of pâté, asparagus mousseline, and an omelet. James dined at the Mark Hopkins with Bess Whitcomb, his abiding mentor from the old Portland Civic Theatre days — she lived in Berkeley now and taught drama at a small college. She wore her silver hair in a short crop; her gaze was warm and deep as ever.

Helen and Philip arrived on Sunday, and on Monday the tour began with a day trip. Philip drove the Coronet across the Golden Gate Bridge north to the Napa Valley, with Helen riding shotgun and James colonizing the bench seat in back. The afternoon temperature crested in the mid-seventies and the hills were still green from winter rain. Masses of yellow wild-mustard flowers filled the vineyards. They tasted at the big four — Inglenook, Beaulieu, Charles Krug, and Louis Martini — and lunched with a winery publicist on ravioli, chicken with mushrooms, and small, sweet spring peas. James kept a detailed record of their meals in his datebook. Elena Zelayeta, the San Francisco cookbook author and radio personality, cooked them enchiladas suizas and chiffon cake.

Next day they crossed the bridge again but swung west from Highway 101 to visit the farm town of Tomales, not much more than a main street of stores and a filling station. Among the rise of green hills dotted with cows, at the farm and creamery of Louis Bononci, James had his first taste of Teleme, a washed-rind cheese with a subtly elastic texture and milky tang. Within its thin crust dusted with rice flour, James recognized the richness and polish of an old French cheese, crafted in an American setting of rusted pickups and ranchers perched on stools at diner counters. It stirred his senses and revived his love for green meadows with the cool, damp feel of Pacific fog lurking somewhere off the coast.

Philip drove west to the shore of fingerlike Tomales Bay, where they lunched on abalone and a smorgasbord that included the local Jack cheese and even more Teleme.

The car had become a mad ark of food.

The road stretched north along the coast: to Langlois, Oregon, with its green, tree-flocked hills converging in a shallow valley, where they stopped at Hans Hansen’s experimental Star Ranch. Born in Denmark, Hansen spent decades making Cheddar. In 1939, with scientists at Iowa State University and Oregon State College, Hansen had begun experimenting with what would be known as Langlois Blue Vein Cheese, a homogenized cows’-milk blue inoculated with Roquefort mold spores. (Production would eventually move to Iowa, where the cheese would be known as Maytag Blue.)

They hit Reedsport, Coquille, Coos Bay, Newport, Cloverdale, Bandon, and Tillamook. They stopped at cheese factories, candy shops, butchers’ counters, produce stands, and markets. Already stuffed with suitcases, the Coronet’s trunk became jammed with wine bottles and jars of honey and preserves; packets of sausage, dried fruit, nuts, and candy. The backseat around James filled up with bottles that rolled and clinked together on turns, with apples, tangerines, filberts, pears, and butcher-paper packets of sliced cured meat, smoked oysters, and hunks of Cheddar. The car had become a mad ark of food. James hauled anything regional and precious on board, as if later it would all prove to have been a myth if he didn’t carry some away as proof that it existed.

In Tualatin, south of Portland, they dropped in on James’s old friends from theater days, Mabelle and Ralph Jeffcott. To a crowd that included Mary Hamblet and her ailing mother, Grammie, Mabelle served baked shad and jellied salad, apple crisp, and the homemade graham bread — molasses-sweet and impossibly light — that was famous among her friends.

They lunched on fried razor clams and coleslaw at the Crab Broiler in Astoria and had martinis, kippered tuna, salmon cheeks, and Indian pudding at the Seaside cottage of James’s beloved friend Harvey Welch.

In Gearhart, James trudged out to Strawberry Knoll, walked across the dunes and onto the beach. He regarded Tillamook Head, just as he did as a boy at the start of summers. He felt a weird convergence of past and present: the sting of sand whipping his face and the smell of charred driftwood lingering in the rock-circled dugout pits of ancient cookouts.

For James, the Northwest displayed a delightfully slouchy elegance he’d almost forgotten about in New York. It had taste without snobbery. At the Pancake House in Portland, they brunched on Swedish pancakes with glasses of buttermilk and French 75 cocktails — the sort of high–low mix he had aimed for at Lucky Pierre. Why did Easterners have so much trouble grasping the idea?

Before a meal of roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, they sipped a simple pheasant broth that, dolled up with half a dozen gaudy garnishes and called Consommé Louis-Philippe, would have been the jewel of Jack and Charlie’s “21” in New York. Food here had honesty. It declared what it was. Like James, it was anti-“gourmet.” Its purity was the ultimate elegance.

Thus far, James had fumbled at articulating a true American cooking. He’d taken rustic French dishes, called them by English names, and substituted American ingredients. There was something crude about such an approach. This trip had showed him American food made on French models — Gamay grapes and Roquefort spores and cheeses modeled on Camembert and Emmenthaler that tasted wonderful and were reaching for unique expressions, not just impersonating European originals. It had given James a clearer vision of American food taking root in the places it grew.

As a boy, he had glimpsed this with Chinese cooking, how a relative of the Kan family, a rural missionary, adapted her cooking to the ingredients at hand in the Oregon countryside. How her Chinese dishes took root there, blossomed into something new; how they became American.

They trekked to Seattle, where the Browns went to a hotel and James stayed with John Conway, his theater-director friend from the Carnegie Institute days. John’s wife, Dorothy, was a photographer. She shot formal portraits of James and Helen in the Conways’ kitchen — maybe Doubleday would use one as the author photo for the outdoor cookbook. They took an aerial tour of oyster beds and wandered Pike’s Place Market.

Philip then steered the Coronet eastward across Washington, through the town of Cashmere in the foothills of the Cascades, where they stopped at a diner for cube steak, cottage cheese, and pie that James noted as “wonderful” in his datebook. In Idaho, at a place called Templin’s Grill near Coeur d’Alene, they found excellent steak and hash browns. There was a Basque place along the way that made jellied beef sausage, and a diner in Idaho Falls with “fabulous” fried chicken and, as James scribbled in his daybook, “biscuits light as a feather.” The fried hearts and giblets were so delicious they bought a five-pound sack to stuff in the hotel fridge and eat in the car next day for lunch.

“Drinks, Steaks, Drinks!”

The squat, industrial-looking Star Valley Swiss Cheese Factory in Thayne, Wyoming, with a backdrop of snow on the Wellsville Mountains, produced what James thought was the best Emmenthaler-style cheese he’d tasted outside of France, but this was American cheese. They had delicious planked steak and rhubarb tart in Salt Lake City, but bad fried chicken and awful pie in Winnemucca, Nevada, was the beginning of a sad coda to their journey.

Soon they were in Virginia City, home of Lucius Beebe — brilliant, bitchy, rich, alcoholic Lucius Beebe, dear friend to Jeanne Owen and the Browns and dismissive of James from the minute they met in New York City fifteen years back.

Lucius enjoyed the life of a magnifico in the nabob splendor of the Comstock Lode, among the graceful wooden neo-Renaissance mansions, peeling in the searing Nevada sun, built by nineteenth-century silver barons. His husband in all respects, save the marriage license and church wedding, was Chuck Clegg. Chuck was quarterback-handsome and courtly, in contrast to bloated, prickly Lucius. Helen and Philip were fond of them. They wanted to linger for a few days, which turned into four days of heavy drinking and blasting wit, much of it at James’s expense.

“Drinks, Steaks, Drinks!” James wrote in his daybook. He disliked Virginia City, with its steep hills one couldn’t climb without wheezing. One day, they all had a picnic on the scrubby flank of a hill, under a brutal sun. Chuck and Lucius brought a Victorian hamper filled with fine china plates, Austrian crystal, silver, and antique damask napkins. They ate cold boned leg of lamb and beans cooked with port. They lingered so long, over so many bottles of Champagne, that James’s head became badly sunburned. Back at the motel, Philip, drunk, tried splashing James’s head with gin, hoping it would bring cooling relief. Everyone cackled at his plight.

Finally, twenty-five days after they set out from San Francisco, Philip steered the Coronet home to Pasadena.

“The trip is one of the most happy and valuable memories of my life,” he wrote to Schaffner from Pasadena. “I garnered a great deal of material, had a most nostalgic time in parts of the west most familiar to me and saw much I had never seen before. It was splendid, gastronomically speaking, to be able to see that there is hope in American cooking.”

The best and most interesting food in America was inseparable from the landscapes that produced it. It was all right there, in country diners and small-town grocers’ shops; in roadside dinner houses and bakeries. All you needed to do was look.

From The Man Who Ate Too Much: The Life of James Beard by John Birdsall. Copyright © 2020 by John Birdsall. Used by permission of W.W. Norton & Company, Inc.

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Fast trains and paper cranes: a Japanese adventure

A ‘hop on, hop off’ westbound itinerary from Tokyo to Kobe by Shinkansen

With its futuristic cityscapes and tranquil temples, ancient traditions and cutting-edge luxury hotels, Japan is a country that must be seen to be believed. And, thanks to its legendary Shinkansen (also known as the Bullet Train), travel is all part of the experience. In this itinerary, we whisk you from Tokyo to the country’s waterfront cosmopolitan city, Kobe, taking in some of the country’s must-see sights en route. Prepare to be swept off your feet.

AT A GLANCE

An open-ended independent itinerary for Japan, based on flying into Tokyo to travel westbound by the world-famous Shinkansen.

Recommended scenic stop-off points include Izu, Nagoya, Ise-Shima, Nara, and Kyoto.

Highlights include luxury hotels, tranquil temples and shrines, cherry blossom tunnels, and views of Mount Fuji.

START IN STYLE: TOKYO

Tokyo is a city that never stands still; a sprawling mishmash of neighbourhoods each with their own distinct identity. Before embarking on your Shinkansen adventure, pause at the Toyko Station Hotel, a gorgeous red-hued building that dates back to 1915. Start your stay as the locals do, with a jog to the Imperial Palace. Then spend a day or two exploring the city: the shopping district of Ginza, the grand Gyoko-dori street, the Godzilla statue in Tokyo’s Hibiya, and the many restaurants of Tokyo Station are all on your doorstep.

To get a feel for Tokyo’s many sides, go twin-centre and book a night or two at Hotel Gajoen Tokyo. Located in the hip Meguro district, from here you can seek out trendy shops and craft cafes. And, if you’re visiting in the spring, don’t miss the annual cherry-blossom festival as these iconic trees drop their confetti-like petals.

WHERE TO STAY

At times, Tokyo can feel a little overwhelming, so we highly recommend choosing hotels in a great location, but with a sense of space and calm. Tokyo Station Hotel puts the capital’s highlights at your feet, while Hotel Gajoen Tokyo feels like a city-centre retreat: tranquil, elegant, yet moments from the trend-setting Meguro district. Suggested stay 3-5 days.

ALL ABOARD THE SHINKANSEN

Catching the Shinkansen is an effortless experience. Trains leave from both Tokyo station and Shinagawa station with surprising regularity – and typical Japanese efficiency. The average delay is just 36 seconds. And shortly after boarding you’re off: rocketing along at up to 320 kilometres per hour. Order some refreshments and take in the views as you whiz past Mount Fuji.

If time is tight, you could make the full journey to Kobe in two hours, 40 minutes. But we’d highly recommend making some detours along the way, starting with the spellbinding Izu.

THE NATURAL WONDERS OF IZU

Rugged coastline, mellow surfer beaches, dense forests dotted with traditional ryokan dwellings and onsen with their therapeutic hot waters. It’s hard to believe that the cool, green calm of Izu is under an hour away on the bullet train from the non-stop bustle of Tokyo. Known as the ‘province where the hot water gushes’, Izu is overflowing with natural wonders – take in views of Mount Fuji from the top of a volcanic crater, or wander through pink tunnels of Kawazu cherry blossom.

In perfect harmony with its unspoilt natural surroundings, ABBA Resorts Izu is a serene Japanese-inn style forest dwelling, where you’ll soon drift away into a state of Zen-like bliss in the mineral water bubbling up from the Ukiyama Hot Springs. Suggested stay 1-2 nights.

Take the Izuhakone Railway Sunzu line from Shuzenji Station to Mishima, then take the bullet train to Nagoya.

NAGOYA: THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS

Nagoya’s location means you don’t have to travel far to experience awe-inspiring natural beauty. Head to the picturesque Japanese Alps for hiking and panoramic mountain views. Or stay in the city and visit the Shirotori Garden, full of flora and fauna all year round. Known for its special Hatcho miso, Nagoya is the perfect place to sample some of Japan’s most authentic flavours, from a hearty bowl of misonikomi to the tender meat of doteni.

Take the Kintetsu Express train from Kintetsu Nagoya to Kashikojima – a complimentary shuttle bus is available from Kashikohima to Shima Kanko Hotel: the Bay Suites in Ise-Shima.

A PLACE OF PILGRIMAGE: ISE-SHIMA

Princes, poets and pilgrims have long turned to Ise-Shima for spiritual, cultural (and culinary) inspiration. This ocean peninsula is where haiku-pioneer Matsuo Bashõ was born and where the Imperial Family is said to source their seafood. A stay in Ise-Shima demands a pilgrimage to Ise-jingū. This sacred Shintō shrine complex is the size of a small city – a labyrinth of inner sanctums, outer temples and moss-carpeted courtyards in a serene forest setting. The original shrines date from the 3rd century, but the ones you’ll see are newer – tradition dictates the shrines are recreated every 20 years to specific plans and ancient practices.

Breathe in the postcard-worthy peacefulness of Ise-Shima National Park from the comfort of Shima Kanko Hotel: the Bay Suites, an all-suite Japanese retreat on the shores of Ago-Wan Bay. Enjoy the perfect pairing of sunsets with your seafood at Michelin-starred La Mer, or get a taste of everything on the intricately prepared tasting menu at Hamayu, the hotel’s second restaurant. Immerse yourself in the local culture with Shima Kanko’s impressive array of activities, from making your own oceanic accessories at Pearl Miki, to taking part in a traditional Tea Ceremony in the beautiful Tatami Room, ‘Guan’. Suggested stay 2-3 nights.

Take the Kintetsu Express train from Kashikojima to Yamatosaidaiji, transfer to the Kintetsu Nara Line to Kintetsunara (2h30m journey) – note that the Japanese Rail Pass is not valid on Kintetsu trains.

HISTORIC NARA

Next up is the first capital city of Japan, home to eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Wander through the serene Isui-en Garden, be inspired by the world-famous Todai-ji Temple, lose yourself in the pathways that surround the Kasuga-Taisha Shrine. Along the way, you’ll encounter the sacred deer that roam free across the city. To really soak up the atmosphere of Nara, we recommend staying overnight at Noboriojo Hotel Nara. This boutique hotel is right at the foot of the Kofuku-Ji temple and renowned for its exceptional service and French-influenced fine dining. Suggested stay 1-2 nights.

Miyakoji rapid trains operate every 30 minutes between JR Nara Station and Kyoto Station – the journey takes around 45 minutes. Kintetsu Nara and JR Nara Line also connect to Kyoto.

KYOTO: TEMPLES, TEA, AND PLUM TREES

With more than 1,000 temples and countless tea houses, Kyoto is the heart and soul of ancient Japan. And, while the best way to experience the city is to step out and lose yourself in it, there are some sights every traveller should see. Fushimi-Inari Taisha is an awe-inspiring shrine made up of hundreds of vermillion gates that form a tunnel up the mountainside. And, in the evening, the softly-lit Geisha district of Gion has an enchanting, secretive atmosphere. Make time for hanami, the ancient practice of flower-viewing, before sipping on sweet umami-plum tea fresh from the city’s groves, which come into full bloom every spring for the annual plum and cherry blossom festivals.

A restored ryokan with suites discreetly arranged among green courtyards, Sowaka perfectly complements this historic city. Harmoniously designed, traditional ryokan elements such as paper sliding doors are interwoven with modern comforts. Bath amenities are made with Japanese camelia oil, and the hotel’s water is drawn from its own underground spring. It’s all designed to create that Kyoto-state-of-mind. With the ancient capital on your doorstep, private tours are available to the nearby Kiyomizu-dera Temple – guided by one of the priests, you will have exclusive access to areas that are normally off-limits to the public. Suggested stay 2-3 nights.

Either take the Special Rapid train on the JR Kyoto Line which will get you to Sannomiya Station in Kobe in 50 minutes, or the high speed shinkansen to Shin-Kobe Station which only takes half an hour.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST: KOBE

Home to the highly prized Kobe beef, your final destination is an ancient maritime gateway with the verdant Rokko mountains as a backdrop and the sea stretching beyond the bustling port. Climb the Port Tower for great views of the city and then visit the numerous shops and restaurants along the waterfront, or Take a stroll along Harborland and Meriken Park. Compact and picturesque, most things can be reached on foot from your luxury hotel, Hotel La Suite Kobe Harborland. Overlooking the harbour with stunning sea views, every bedroom has a large Jacuzzi bath with a television for the ultimate relaxation time. Suggested stay 1-2 nights.

TRAVEL TIPS

Make sure you choose the correct category of Shinkansen for your journey. On the Tokaido Shinkansen, from Tokyo to Kobe, the most frequent and fastest option is the Nozomi. If you’d like to use the Japan Rail Pass, your best choice is the Hikari which takes just over three hours.

BOOK YOUR BOUTIQUE HOTELS

To book the hotels on this independent itinerary, get in touch with our Voice Reservation Team on 0800 0482 314 (UK) & 1-877-234-7033 (US). You can find a full list of our dedicated toll-free numbers here. We’re ready and waiting to plan luxury adventures 24 hours a day, seven days a week. So whenever inspiration strikes, just get in touch.

The post Fast trains and paper cranes: a Japanese adventure appeared first on Small Luxury Hotels.

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Naturally endowed with vast arable plains and scenic mountainscapes, Tarlac province is beyond a stopover place, but a tourist destination itself.  Understanding its topography, history, and culture, you will truly love to spend time here. The numerous experiences what the beautiful province can offer to its visitors are due to the fact that it is a convergence of different ethnicities – bringing a synergy of culture, shaping its current colorful and vibrant society. The government has started already to develop its promising destinations, and with the help of the active Tarlac Conventions and Visitors Bureau, the marketing of the province’ tourism has already paved its way. All existing generations can enjoy the province, thanks to its different established road networks; going around the province is convenient.

Here are the destinations you can try yourself while in Tarlac:

  Feel the real adrenaline and engine rev at KART CITY Tarlac.

Ten Thinktanks who loved outdoors created this adventure park, happy that we met Sir Pio Arugay, one of the owners, who toured us around Kart City. At the time of Formula 1 prominence and wanting to have a personal space to experience speed, they are able to put up the race track here in Tarlac. The initial strategy is to have small groups of people to experience speed. By word of mouth and successful marketing campaign, the Kart City grew its foot traffic and received various requests and suggestions from their loyal customers, until such time they expanded their restaurant, café, Karaoke rooms, and live band area.

everchanging Tarlac standee

Counter

Registration booth

They continue to evolve and still follow what the market requires. They goal to deliver to let the customers feel the rev of the engine is strongly met. They have a five-minute drive package for Php250.00 (as of writing) for adult beginners. You think that 5 minutes is short? Try it yourself, I just did a 3 cycle drive and though have consumed the time, we were just halfway, past 3 minutes, upon parking the karts.

My first time to try

After an adrenaline-filled drive, relax at their Karaoke rooms and unleash the concert personality in you. Dining in is recommended. Here are the dishes we tried:

Chaps Flavored Wings: Buffalo (Php245) – this topped among the dishes we tried, the full-body flavor and crispness of the wings are topnotch.

Bagnet Bicol Express (Php325) – crispy fried pork over a bed of coconut cream base sauce.

Creamy Bulalo Sinigang (Php375) – A surprising yet really tastes good. The soup is

Chaps Pizza Roll: Meat Lover’s (Php390) – almost the same with a Panizza, I loved how flaky and moist the pastry is, and the mix of flavors once in the mouth.

Sinigang sa Miso: Salmon (Php395) – a heaven for Sinigang lovers – the not too sour soup, and not “malansa“. The serving come also with generous vegetable helpings..

Inihaw na Bangus: Boneless (Php235) – truly boneless yet flavorful stuffed milkfish grilled to perfection.

Boneless bangus

Buffalo Wings

Pizza roll

Bulalo Sinigang

Sinigang sa Miso Salmon

Sisig

Bagnet Bicol Express

Dishes I will try on my return: 

Chaps Flavored Wings – Thai Sriracha (Php245)

Bulalo (Php350)

Salmon Sashimi (Php260)

Angus Steak Rib Eye (Php690)

Operating Hours:

Monday to Friday: 3:00PM – 01:30AM

Saturday and Sunday: 10:00AM – 01:30AM

Kart Driving Rate:

Php250.00 / 5 minutes

Things to do:

Chill in their cafe

Enjoy the live band (Trackside Bar and Grill)

Sing your heart our in their karaoke rooms (VIP Sky Lounge)

Dine-in (Chap’s Diner and Game Room Sports Bar)

Pedal Kids – Bike rental at Php75 / 30 minutes for kids

Contact Details:

Landline: (045) 491-4053

Facebook Page: Kart City Tarlac

How to go: 

Drive: From Manila, take NLEX and SCTEX, then exit via San Miguel Tollgate. Take Luisita Access Road and turn right to McArthur Highway. Kart City is right in front of SM City Tarlac. There are parking slots available.

Commute: Take any Tarlac City bound/passing bus and alight in front of SM City Tarlac.

Understand behind the obelisk in Capas National Shrine.

The grim history of the Death March indeed left a huge dent in Philippine history and in the living memory of our grandparents. Hundreds of Filipino soldiers met their demise in the most inhumane possible way by the Japanese Imperial Forces during this entire ghastly moment.

The National Shrine sits on a vast land featuring a visible tall slender tower, surrounded by an esplanade with engraved names on its walls, plus a forest like-nature park of different tree species fill the 35 hectares of space. The tower that is coined as the “Obelisk” features a three-sectioned tower that represents the peace between the Filipino, American and Japanese People in this modern era. An installed beacon at the tip of the tower means the nationalistic ambition of us, the Filipinos nation when it comes to peace and freedom.

Before sunset is the best time to visit the national shrine. Once the golden hour casts its amazing glow over the park, the colors of the trees glisten to golden yellow and the park seems to be under a dramatic yet lovely spotlight.

If you are a local in the Central Luzon, you may want to trace if one of your forefathers’ names is part of the Death March. Walk around the circular esplanade and search through the thousands of names engraved.

Another feature of the park is the enclosed train boxcar, noticeably on display on the left side of the park. It is said that this boxcar holds hundreds of soldiers more than its intended capacity. Many men died of exhaustion, dysentery, and suffocation. Reading the inscription that describes the forbidding moments is indeed hair raising.

It is highly encouraged that visitors to keep the national shrine clean by not littering and bringing their own trash.

Quick facts:

Location: Barangay Cristo Rey, Capas, Tarlac

Total Land size: 50+ hectares

Forested Land: 35 hectares

Height of obelisk: 70 meters

April 2003 – the unveiling of the tall obelisk

Fees: Entrance – Php20.00, Parking Fee – Php40.00, Free for Capas Residents

Scale of the obelisk

Wide Esplanade

The Boxcar

Below the obelisk

How to go: Drive from Manila to NLEX and take Capas Exit. Drive to Capas Public Market and turn left (if northbound) to Sto. Cristo Street, then turn right to Sto. Rosario Street. Few meters after the Aranguren Barangay Hall and turn left to Camp O’Donnel Road. The national shrine is located on the left side of the road, and the tower is already noticeable from afar.

Visit the Aquino Center and Museum

Know and understand more of the Aquino couple that helped mold the Philippine political history on what we are today. The museum features two sections – a convention center and a museum installation. The museum features displays and actual artifacts of Ninoy Aquino, from his juvenile years until his demise. Lucky if you have Ms. Karen Lacsamana, the museum manager, to guide through different segments of the museum. During my visit, I was guided by one of her team members. After a quick round, Ms. Karen evaluated what I understood. Gladly, when I was young, I have read a lot of articles and stories about the young Senator Aquino and was able to easily relate with facts and figures discussed. The museum segments involve his younger years, his education, early career, political career and successes, exile and death.

One of the many photos on display of Sen. Ninoy

Another segment in the museum is the displays of President Corazon Aquino’s valuable diplomatic gifts, honoris causa, and other valuable presents from different key global political figures and monarchs. Also on display are her personal art masterpieces, and portraits of the First Family. The first female president of the Philippines is known for her humble and modest demeanor and love of her country.

I wish that I could have shared more what I have learned, but it is best to see and learn it first hand with the museum curator and team members.

One of the halls

Portion of Pres. Cory’s displays

The convention hall side

Thank you for these magazines

Busts of the power couple

The airy and expansive lobby

The Aquino Center and Museum is located at Luisita Industrial Park Road, Luisita, San Miguel, Tarlac. Museum hours from 8:00AM to 5:00PM.

Contact details: 

Landline: +63 45 985 0968 / +63 45 985 0969

Email: aquinocenter@ncaf.ph

How to go:

Drive – From Manila, take NLEX/SCTEX and exit to San Miguel Tollgate. Take Luisita Access Road. The museum is located on the right side of the road (westbound)

Experience farming life in EDL Farmhouse

Escape the stress of the daily commute and the metro’s hustle and bustle with a taste of farm life in EDL farms. Strategically located near the national highway in Capas, the farm is indeed convenient to visit. EDL farm features both livestock and plant yields. A day tour involves visiting and experiences surely that would delight every member of the family and barkada. It is also a good teambuilding destination and events place, thanks to its indoor hotel section and a huge convention hall.

What amaze me most with EDL Farms are its various research and development projects they currently have. It is my first time to witness aquaponics – the synergistic co-existing of the live fishes and plants that are both organic and sustainable. They also have research on creating best yields for herbal cultivations and even vermiculture. They have a dedicated section of the farm for tourists to experience.

These are worms

Aquaponics

lots of herbs

Another exciting experience is feeding activities of various cattle and goats. How about having bonding sessions with calves and kids? Cool, isn’t it.

With their priority research and development projects, I am sure that EDL farms would spearhead pioneering innovations that would be significant in both sectors of tourism and agriculture, in the near future.

Spearmint

Another Herb

Blue Ternate

More herbs

Cute calf

Contact Details:

Mobile: +63 917 709 6908

Email: thefarmhousebyedl@gmail.com; info@edlfarmtourism.com

Website: EDL Farm Tourism 

Address: EDL Drive, Brgy. Dolores Capas, Tarlac 2315

How to go:

Drive from Manila, take NLEX/SCTEX and exit to Concepcion tollgate. Proceed to Capas Junction and U-turn to McArthur Highway. Turn left to Welcome Arch of Brgy. Dolores. You may ask for the tricycle drivers for directions.

Commute: take Tarlac-bound/passing bus. Alight near Welcome Arch of Brgy. Dolores, take a tricycle to EDL Farmhouse.

Saunter the halls in the Aquino Family Ancestral House

Located approximately two blocks from the plaza of Concepcion town, the two-story house of the Aquino Family is beautifully preserved throughout the decades. Apart from the Aquino Center, visiting this very home where Senator Ninoy spent his younger years will help you connect more with him. The property sits on a spacious lot with different decades-old fruit-bearing trees. The house features traditional wood decorated interiors.

Reminder upon entering the house, it is important to remove your shoes or sandals.

 We entered through the main door to their living room. On display are different family pictures of the Aquino clan. The elaborate sala sets are placed at the center. There are Cleopatra pieces near the huge windows. Next is the huge dining room that features a long table with more than a dozen chairs. Being a political clan, this is a must since they have to receive many visitors from time to time, I think.

Connecting the top floor is the wooden grand staircase that features a huge window that cast elegant illumination on the steps. Once at the top floor, you would notice the altar at the common area. Also, the original light switches are still there. The bedrooms, however, feature just beds and the remaining installed cabinets and dressers. It is quite creepy to walk around the rooms since of the eerie quietness.

I could only imagine how vibrant this house during the years it was occupied.

To visit the ancestral house, coordinate first with Tarlac Convention and Visitors Bureau through their Facebook account TCVB

The Facade

Dining Room

Corner

Main Bedroom

Beautiful staircase

Part of the dirty kitchen

How to go:

From Manila, take NLEX/SCTEX and exit to Concepcion tollgate. Turn right to Concepcion-Magalang road, turn left to Concepcion junction. turn right from Savemore Concepcion branch. Turn right to A. Luna Street.

  Need to fill those hungry bellies? Tarlac province has many restaurants you can try, and here the few of the many recommended ones:

Balai de Lorenzo Weekend Buffet

A weekend breakfast buffet housed in an airconditioned huge dining hall within the EDL Farmhouse property is now open, featuring a wide array of breakfast choices for an introductory price of Php249 per pax (as of writing).

The weekend buffet is housed on a spacious high ceilinged hall adorned with beautiful lighting installations and woodworks. There are open-air alfresco type dining tables outside with views of the Cabusilan mountain ranges if you wish to dine with a view of nature.

Open Air Dining Area

Thank you to Ms. Karen Lacsamana of Tarlac Conventions and Visitors Bureau (TCVB), we got access to experience the launch of this lovely weekend buffet.

What is on the buffet table? 

The dishes are grouped per station, Balai de Lorenzo has 9 Food stations you can try:

Salad Bar – serves salad staples like lettuces, julienned carrots, and different dressings

Kakanin Section – serves sapin sapin, cassava cake, and maja blanca

Juice Bar – serves lime juice, iced tea and lemon water.

Live Omelet and Waffle Station – serves omelets and waffles made your way with their live kitchen.

Arroz Caldo and Champorado Station – Pinoy classics soothing for your hungry tummy.

Breakfast Cereal Station – indulge with crispy cornflakes with milk.

Bread Station – different spreads to be matched with pandesal and baguette slices.

Coffee Station – coffee and tea to perk up your mornings.

Main Dishes Station – features heavy viands fit for breakfast.

Live Omelet Station

Kakanin Station

Salad Station

Juice Station

Coffee and Tea Station

Main Dishes Station

Bread Station

Cereal Station

Arroz Caldo and Champorado Station

What I love about the Balai de Lorenzo is its dedicated service to their customers. The waiting staff are attentive and accommodating. The dishes served are fresh and palatable. I cannot vouch for the pork dishes since I do not eat pork. The coffee does not taste like paper. The stations are appropriately and strategically located within the dining hall to scatter the queue of the dining customers.

Balai de Lorenzo Weekend Buffet runs from 7:00AM to 10:00AM every Saturdays and Sundays. The Farm operations are from 7:00AM – 10:00PM

Contact Details:

Mobile: +63 917 709 6908

Email: thefarmhousebyedl@gmail.com; info@edlfarmtourism.com

Website: EDL Farm Tourism 

Address: EDL Drive, Brgy. Dolores Capas, Tarlac 2315

How to go:

Drive from Manila, take NLEX/SCTEX and exit to Concepcion tollgate. Proceed to Capas Junction and U-turn to McArthur Highway. Turn left to Welcome Arch of Brgy. Dolores. You may ask for the tricycle drivers for directions.

Commute: take Tarlac-bound/passing bus. Alight near Welcome Arch of Brgy. Dolores, take a tricycle to EDL Farmhouse.

D&C Cuisine

For me, this is my comfort food go-to restaurant in Tarlac City, D&C Cuisine offers Pinoy dishes perfected with their standard of cooking. Since 1982, they are already serving the locals of Tarlac City with the casual barbecue type (ihaw ihaw). With the growing demand, D&C Cuisine transitioned to serving more dishes, from tapsilogs to sisig. It was a great opportunity to meet and talk with the second-generation owner, Sir Djerick, on sharing their restaurant’s success stories and how they came up with their menu. He himself learned the passion of cooking from his parents, and eventually, developed his own style of cooking. The restaurant can house a maximum of 50 customers in one seating.

Counter

Dining Area

D&C Cuisine is famous for its Tapsilog and ��should be taken out” chili paste. Aside from having to order from a menu, there is a “turo turo” style viands on display you can order at their service counter and consume in a flash if you are in a hurry. Apart from the Pinoy traditional homecooked style meals, they have offerings for the sweet tooth customers, deserts! I personally loved the leche flan – its consistency is creamy, not too sweet and void of the “malansa” aftertaste – two thumbs up for me. D&C means Dante and Corazon – Sir Djerick’s parents.

With Sir Djerick, Ms. Tina Punzal of hungrytravelduo,com, and Sir Arian of Microtel Luisita

Here are the dishes we tried with D&C.

Kare Kare – the peanut sauce is rich and thick, the vegetables are not overcooked and the shrimp paste (bagoong) is heaven.

Tapsilog – the blend of sweet and salty flavors of the tapa is two-thumbs up. The meat is tender as well and prepared vinegar dip is perfect!

Beef Mami – the noodles are al dente, the soup is flavored with anise, which is a good surprise and the beef meat is tender and tasty.

Chicharon Bulaklak – one of the best I tried ever. According to Sir Djerick, they carefully cleaned the mesentery parts and deep-fried to perfection only with new/unused cooking oil.

Sisig – the aroma itself will make your stomach rumble.

Leche Flan – the flan is smooth in texture and stable. The sweetness is not overpowering and not “malansa“.

Sago at Gulaman – refreshing childhood favorite

Mais con Yelo – perfect blend of cream and corn flavors.

Signature TAPSILOG!

Kare Kare

Beef Mami

Chicharon Bulaklak

Sisig

We are personally accompanied by Sir Arian Esplanada, one of the active officers of the Tarlac Convention and Visitors Bureau and Operations Manager of Microtel by Wyndham Luisita.

The restaurant is operating daily but during these hours from 10:30AM – 2:00PM and 5:30PM to 10:00PM.

How to go:

Drive from Manila, take NLEX/SCTEX and exit to Concepcion tollgate. Proceed to Capas Junction and U-turn to McArthur Highway. Turn left at the Y-Road (after SM City Tarlac) and stop at Conchita Street corner.

Peri Peri Restaurant

House Platter

A recommended restaurant within easy reach, Peri Peri is just along the National Highway in Capas and is easily identifiable. The restaurant features a high ceilinged dining area with a grand chandelier as the main lighting centerpiece, exuding an elegant warm glow throughout its reach. The dining tables are readily set with basic cutlery set.

With Ms. Karen of Aquino Center, Sir RJ and Sir Arian of Microtel Luisita

The Peri Peri staff are in their semi-formal uniforms, thus, giving you a touch of a formal dining experience.  After my first dining experience, this is now my go-to full-service restaurant in Capas. The name of the restaurant is hailed from an African Hot Sauce that is made of red chili peppers. Are the dishes there all spicy? No, the menu features Filipino inspired dishes that locals and foreign visitors would really love.

Cutleries

Hygiene First

Counter and choice of wines

Here are the dishes that we tried:

Fisherman’s Soup Ala Peri Peri (Php220)- I loved how the shrimp and squid bits are infused in the thick and creamy soup and is not “malansa“.

Peri Peri Fried Rice (Php245) – moist fried rice with seafood and spicy blends.

House Platter (Php845) – Grilled Stuffed Squid, Prawn, Sausage, Pork Barbecue Skewers, and Salted Egg and Fern Fiddlehead.

Pako Ensalada (Php235)  – fresh and crunchy fern fiddlehead salad with salted egg partnered by their signature vinaigrette dip.

Kare Bagnet (Php335) – thick rich peanut sauce with heavenly bagoong.

Chili Garlic Prawns (Php375) – tender and flavorful big prawns.

Peri Peri Fried Chicken (Php260 half, Php350 whole) – stuffed fried whole chicken with crispy skin and tender moist meat.

Roast Beef with Mushroom and Pepper Sauce (Php350) – flavorful and tender beef meat with scoops of their creamy mashed potato.

Roast Beef

Peri Peri Fried Chicken Whole

Garlic Prawns

Kare Bagnet

Pako Ensalada

Follow their Facebook page: Peri Peri Restaurant & Catering Services for  inquiries and updates. They also do caterings to various occasions – intimate to large events.

How to go:

Drive: from Manila, take NLEX/SCTEX and exit to Concepcion, turn left to Magalang-Concepcion Road, make a U-Turn to McArthur Highway  (near McDonald’s Capas Branch). The restaurant is located on the right side if driving northbound.

  The Shed @ 2828  Garden Café

Operated by a kitchen powerhouse duo – Steven and Malou, partner in business and in real life, who are health and organic process advocates. The Shed brings you to a different gastronomic experience, where the ambiance will bring you back to dining basics – eating with nature. The restaurant features a modest kitchen and limited seats only. An extension of more seats is located below the “aratilis” tree. It is noticeable that they have a garden at the back where they pick some of their ingredients for their dishes – talk about garden to table restaurant model.

Extension

Recommended Dishes

Steak of Champions (Php490) – Anatomy: two  sunny side up organic eggs on top of a medium-rare herbed and seasoned steak, with potato chips, grilled tomatoes, homemade tomato based sauce and their another signature steak sauce. For me, the best part is taking the egg yolk with a bite of the steak with the tomato sauce – OH LA LA! Heaven!

Roast Chicken Salad (Php180) – loved the freshly made salad with blue ternate flowers, the dressing too has this perfect blend of sweet and sour flavors.

Chili Chicken and Chips (Php260) – having a Bicolano blood running through my veins, this is a treat for my taste buds. The spicy flavors would really awaken my appetite.

Traditional English Fish and Chips (Php280) – According to Steven, a Scottish, this is how they serve their fish and chips – a whole slab of coated fish fillet deep-fried. calling all mushroom lovers – this is your best choice to munch on those crispy fried slices of tasty yet healthy mushrooms, perfectly season too and is a heaven on the tastebuds.

Mushroom Tempura (Php350 regular, Php200 small) – calling all mushroom lovers – this is your best choice to munch on those crispy fried slices of tasty yet healthy mushrooms, perfectly season too and is a heaven on the tastebuds.

Deviled Avocado and Chicken Sandwich (Php220) – spicy food is a thing for me, and hearing just the name of the dish makes my mouth water. I loved how they turned the avocado meat to a smooth and savory spread.

Chicken and Deviled Avocado Sandwhich

Chili Chicken and Chips

Traditional Fish and Chips

Steak of Champions

Beverage

Blue Ternate

Lemon Grass Tea

Commercial Beers

Lemongrass Tea and Blue Ternate Tea

Their menu is simple and only chosen dishes they have perfected are on display. Each dish you will see posted on their blackboard menu has undergone multiple trials and scrutinized for quality and taste before they got the right combination. Truly, the quality of their dishes are top-notch and had started to gain traction of loyal customers and increasing new diners.

Serving and eating organic – this is what Steven and Malou is promoting. Seating with them and listening with their stories on how they really are serious with organic farming is mind enriching. Steven shared on how he taught local farmers in this practice, how he dealt with the negative reception of the idea, and to be able to influence the farmers. I have also learned about whiskeys. He is a whiskey-drinker, indeed. Steven mentioned a lot of variations of whiskey which I never heard about. My initial understanding, since I drank before different brands of that hard liquor, it does not mean I am drinker, he corrected me that I just taste whiskey – a mind opener for me.

Malou, a pharmacist herself, also shared shifting to herbals in treating mild ailments. Understanding the side effects and reactions of the drugs from her previous profession, this prompted her and advocated to obtain treatments from nature.  The less than two-hour we spent sharing stories seemed a whole day. I really learned a lot by listening to their perspectives. The humble spirit the couple has will really bring them to continued progress. I wish them success in every way.

For dine-in seat reservations and deliveries, you can contact them at +63 922 786 6940

Check updates with their Facebook page: The Shed at 2828 and Instagram: @TheShedat2828

Simple and homey facade

Steven preparing the steak

dried blue ternate flowers

Cutleries

Centerpieces

Another centerpiece

Ms. Karen, interviewing some of the customers

Let the tired and belly filled body rest and relax in one of the most recommended business hotels in Tarlac -Microtel by Wyndham Luisita!

MICROTEL by Wyndham LUISITA 

It is one of the established and recommended business hotels in the Luisita area. Strategically located near the Luisita Business Park in a quiet and peaceful area, the hotel is within easy reach of different establishments that are certainly convenient for its guests. Microtel by Wyndham Luisita has an overall 50 guest rooms and has 1-Queen Bed Room, 2-Queen Bed Room, and a Queen Bed Suite Room selections.

24 hour Reception Desk

Microtel Luisita Features that I love:

Free-flowing Coffee – I am a caffeine dependent person, and this kept me abreast of my required caffeine intake to perk up my idea

Spacious Suite Room Set Up – allows more movement within the room, and does not feel cramped.

Huge Bed – the size would up to 3 persons and loved its firmness, good support for my back. I’ve got less toss and turns during my sleep.

Functioning Bathtub – soothing for my back pain after having a quick warm bath.

Humidifier – good for my rhinitis

Fast Wifi Connection – a huge plus for a semi-digital nomad like me. I was able to upload media contents with fewer lags and able to correspond through emails. Devices get disconnected if unused or in sleep mode.

Surrounding greeneries – the hotel itself is a destination, need a nature’s embrace? Just stroll outside the hotel and enjoy the green surroundings.

24-hour food vending – Since I usually draft articles late at night, I was able to get chips to munch on while working at the wee hours of the night.

In-Room Massage Service – This is a plus! Only available until 11:00PM, you can request through their friendly reception by dialing 0. The cost of massage service ranges from Php600 and up.

Heartfelt Service – from my checking in and out, the assistance of the hotel team is in indeed a two thumbs up. I got the necessary information and services I need in a snap.

Free Pick Up/Drop Off – a prearranged service by the hotel within Luisita Business Area.

Hand Sanitizers – there are hand sanitizers located in common strategic areas within the hotel.

Buffet Breakfast – breakfast is vital for me to kickstart my day and having breakfast with brewed coffee is a huge plus! What did they serve? Steamed rice, omelet, hotdog, fried dried fish (favorite), soup, cereals, fruits and free-flowing brewed ❤ coffee.

Water dispensers – I won’t survive a day with just a glass of water, thankfully they have dispensers where I could refill for my hydration. I always use my Klean Kanteen Insulated Flask to keep my water cold for long periods of time.

Working station with many power outlets

Spacious Toilet, Tub and Bath

Coffee and Tea Facility

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Mutli Shower Heads

Hand Sanitizers everywhere

Free flowing coffee

Reception area

24 hour vending

Queen Size Bed and Chiropractic approved

Spacious suite room

Thank you Microtel!

Microtel by Wyndham Luisita has currently a promo running: Barkada Getaway Deals, for Php4,000, 4 pax in double room inclusive of breakfast. This is a steal! Hoping they could have a swimming pool in the future.

The hotel is located at Hacidenda Luisita, San Miguel, Tarlac 2301, Philippines.

Contact Details:

Landline:+63 45 985-1770 / 985 – 1974

Mobile: +63 917 826 4276 / +63 925 814 9203

E-mail: tarlac@mictrotel.ph

Facebook Page: Microtel by Wyndham

Website: Microtel-Tarlac.com

How to go: Drive – From Manila, take NLEX/SCTEX and exit to San Miguel Tollgate. Take Luisita Access Road. Microtel Tarlac is located on the right side of the road (westbound)

My heartfelt thanks to the TARLAC CONVENTIONS and VISITORS BUREAU and the PROVINCIAL GOVERNMENT OF TARLAC for this amazing experience of the province. Surely, I barely scratched the surface of its tourism industry, and I will be back to keep exploring Tarlac’s beauty!

Please note that prices indicated in this article may change without prior notice. 

  Experience TARLAC: see, eat and stay in the province Naturally endowed with vast arable plains and scenic mountainscapes, Tarlac province is beyond a stopover place, but a tourist destination itself. 

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Woman on a mission: what drives Dee Caffari? How the pioneering sailor went from PE teacher to Volvo skipper

For Dee Caffari, skippering a Volvo Ocean Race Team has been the culmination of an extraordinary career (so far!). So why doesn’t she feel like she’s made it yet? Helen Fretter talked to Dee on her round the world adventure to find out.

Leg 4, Melbourne to Hong Kong, Day 12 onboard Turn the Tide on Plastic. A candid moment where I caught Dee Caffari staring out the hatch. What is she thinking? Photo by Brian Carlin/Volvo Ocean Race. 13 January, 2018.

Dee Caffari puts most of us to shame. She turned up in the cliquey world of offshore racing in her mid-twenties without a reputation built on years of Figaro or Mini Transat racing, no childhood spent dinghy sailing, no private backer, no technical advantage. No leg-up at all, in fact. And yet she was the only skipper in this year’s Volvo Ocean Race who has also completed a Vendée Globe. She has achieved so much.

Dee is a big believer that anybody can do the same. That can be a little confronting, leaving those of us who haven’t realised such dreams feeling a bit like a failure. For the pros who spent a lifetime racing off Brittany or the IJsselmeer it must be disconcerting to have someone who did a fast-track Yachtmaster course line up next to you on the skipper’s rostrum.

Perhaps because of that the armchair critics have not always been kind. Some questioned her lack of podium results, but in offshore racing a huge achievement lies in getting to the start – and an even greater one in getting to the finish. And that is what Caffari does – she gets around (the Volvo Ocean Race was her sixth lap of the planet). 

Actually, looking back at her 2008 Vendée Globe what stands out is how she finished just five hours after Brian Thompson (who, with a Jules Verne title, nobody could accuse of not being performance driven).

Leg 8 from Itajai to Newport, day 9 on board Turn the Tide on Plastic. 30 April, 2018. Skipper Dee Caffari.

She has just completed the Volvo Ocean Race skippering Turn the Tide on Plastic. It is the second time she has led a crew around the world, and it is, in many ways, the perfect job for Caffari. It is also not a role many others would have taken on. But this is a woman who set off on her solo round the world record attempt in 2005, against the prevailing winds and currents, having never actually sailed single-handed before. Caffari is not easily daunted.

How did she work her way from being a newbie Yachtmaster to having one of the most complete and accomplished CVs of any offshore sailor?

“I’m stubborn and bloody-minded, and wasn’t going to take no for an answer,” she muses. “It’s about building connections and networks, and taking opportunities as they arise, and I’ve been very fortunate to be in the right place to do that. I’ve also had to be a bit more resilient than most.” 

“She makes smart decisions, and she’s prepared to put a lot of blood, sweat and tears into making it happen,” observes Brian Thompson, who also raced with Caffari in the 2009 Transat Jacques Vabre, and navigated on Turn the Tide on Plastic. “She’s not afraid to have a big goal and work really hard to get to it.”

She may have come into the sport late, but her first job gave her a rich seam of connections. Starting out at Mike Golding Ocean Racing as a nipper on his corporate sailing programme, she joined a team that included Graham ‘Gringo’ Tourell, who was boat captain for Dongfeng, Jonny Malbon, as well as Golding himself. For a rookie it was the perfect teaching ground.

Dee (Denise) Caffari aged 6 in 1979 aboard her father’s motor yacht the Jolly Rotter en route to Holland.

Allie Smith, who recruited Caffari straight from her UKSA Yachtmaster course, recalls: “Every step of the way she learnt from the best. So she learnt how to sail a Challenge 67 yacht from Mike [Golding]. And then when she got her Open 60, who did she turn to to tune the boat up and learn from? Mike again.”

Dee’s approach was to learn, and work, and then learn some more. “Dee would always ask questions,” says Smith. “‘Why are you doing that?’, ‘Why are you doing it that way?’”

Golding recalls: “When she was made skipper of the 67 she literally spent three days just parking the boat in Ocean Village, going into all the horrible difficult spaces.”

“Whenever she was given a task, with each successive job, she was thrown straight into it in the deep end. And each time she rose to the challenge and did it really well.”

But going straight from the classroom to a top-level campaign meant she had to hold her own.

“I used to be able to get her into tears pretty easily,” recalls Golding. “I think she was quite highly strung then. Not intentionally, but neither was I going to let things go by just because she was a girl.”

Emotions run high

When Caffari later announced she was going to skipper a team in the Global Challenge (the pay-to-sail, westbound round the world race sailed by crews of 18 amateur sailors with a professional skipper), Golding was concerned that Caffari was too sensitive. “My fear was that Challenge crew can wither you! They are very intelligent people who’ve made money and time to do the race, they’re used to being the boss, and they can cut you to ribbons.

“So I said: I fear you’re going to have to harden up. And she obviously did, because she had to.”

Briefing her Global Challenge team

When she skippered Imagine it. Done in the 2004 Global Challenge Caffari not only survived some challenging crew politics, but gained respect for how she handled a potentially life-threatening situation on board when one of her crew developed severe internal injuries. 

Golding said he noticed a huge change in her on her return. “I think that emotional side had gone for her, she had a confidence that wasn’t there prior to the Challenge.”

But the ebullient Caffari we are used to wasn’t always so positive. After the Challenge, she rolled straight into a solo west-about round the world record, an experience she describes as ‘an emotional rollercoaster’. So, in preparation for the Vendée Globe two years later she worked with a sports psychologist.

“That was probably the biggest growth in my sailing I ever had, learning how to manage me,” she says.

“I used to easily say what I didn’t want to happen: I didn’t want to let people down, I didn’t want to come last. But I would struggle to say what I did want to happen. 

“I learnt that I had to practice positive language, and completely turn that on its head.

“Even now, my default setting when I’m stressed is I can feel myself going back to the negative. I have to have a word with myself and change my language again. And as a result I’m much more positive.” 

Timing is everything

That positivity has been thoroughly tested in the Volvo Ocean Race. The Turn the Tide on Plastic team was a late entry put together by Volvo, the UN Clean Seas campaign and Mirpuri Foundation. It has been stunningly timely – as the race ramped up the plastic oceans issue became a hot topic globally, giving Caffari the kind of platform that commercially backed teams could only dream of. 

It was also timely for Caffari, who told me in Alicante how before Tide came her way she had been throwing herself – unsuccessfully – at other teams trying to get a trial for this edition of the race. 

The opportunity to skipper a campaign was huge, but daunting. The project came with unique challenges – stipulations that six crew should be under-30, at least one Portuguese. The budget and timeframe meant there was little warm up, sailors needed to be fit and ready to go, but many of the youngsters had almost zero ocean racing experience before they set off. 

Performance analysis was rudimentary compared to some teams. In Cape Town we chatted about how teams had been analysing the onboard footage during the Atlantic leg and she was intrigued that some had allocated resources purely to that. “We’re still going “’Oh, that’s a nice picture!’ We are just so not on that level,” she joked. 

So it has been a surprise to many just how close Turn the Tide has run some of their competitors. For much of the first Lisbon to Alicante leg they were neck and neck with Brunel – so when Brunel complained of rudder issues Turn the Tide watch captain Liz Wardley forthrightly told me she felt it was patronising, and suggested that Tide’s performance out of the blocks had rattled some of the Volvo stalwarts.

The team continued improving: on the final approach into Auckland Turn the Tide on Plastic was in front. They clung to the top three until the final 20 miles, when Mapfre and Dongfeng relentlessly hunted them down the North Island’s coast. Turn the Tide eventually finished 5th and even Dee seemed lost for words. 

On the northward Atlantic leg Turn the Tide sailed near-faultlessly, in the front half of the pack for the entire leg and enjoying several days in pole position. Two days away from the finish they again seemed set for a podium finish, but it would be a three-way fight. 

An onboard video shows Caffari explaining the situation on deck; she’s met with nervous silence. “Come on, yes Dee!” she rallies them. Clearly the crew wanted to believe the podium is still in grasp, but had been denied it too many times. They were denied it again, as the light winds and fog of Newport rolled Turn the Tide back to sixth.

She commented in a post-leg interview. “Yet again I’m stood here saying for the fourth leg running, ‘They didn’t get the result they deserve’. So I’m kind of stuck as a skipper on how to pick them up and get going for the next leg, but that’s what I’ve got to do.”

Rallying the troops is something Caffari is good at, and she’s often praised for her people management skills – even if at the beginning of the race she wasn’t entirely confident in her, abilities. “I [do enjoy it] although I think I’m not very good at it,” she told me before the start in Alicante. “I get stressed by it. I don’t want to get it wrong.”

She talks about her crew with more of a sense of responsibility than the other Volvo skippers; part mother hen, part enthusiastic school sports coach. Her management style is based on nurturing strengths.

“I’m not very much a dictator,” she observes. “I don’t tell them all what to do. I go OK, this area is yours. Are you OK? Do you need any help?” 

Leg 10 from Cardiff to Gothenburg.

So good at empowering her team is Caffari, that she revealed in Cape Town she felt almost redundant at times. “I kind of feel like I’m second to [the navigator] and then I go on deck and Martin [Strømberg] is running his watch and Liz is running her watch and I don’t really fit in there, so you end up being quite isolated. And as a leader you generally are. It’s lonely at the top.”

Thompson explained they later restructured so Caffari also ran a watch, a move Caffari said she hoped “might restore my confidence a bit!”

Despite the billboards plastered around Volvo Race villages with her name and face on, Caffari is instinctively modest. She admits that for much of her racing career she compared herself to sailors with entirely different backgrounds. “Even now, when you’re in an environment where you have Olympians or America’s Cup sailors, you’re like ‘Oh, what have I done?’ And actually, there’s a bit of a reality check, that in fact I’ve done quite a lot.”

But as the race was drawing towards a close, Caffari was taking stock. “I think if I was honest with this campaign, there isn’t another skipper that could do what I’ve done with the team I’ve had and the timescale and budget I’ve got. 

“But I want to show how close the racing’s been with a result as well. I do believe what we’re doing is right, but my concern is if you look at the scoreboard we look no different to Team SCA, yet how we’re racing and how this campaign is going is so much better.

“The team deserve it, and I think we’re probably the one team where every other team would be happy if we got that result.” 

She’s right – after the Auckland and Newport finishes, rival skippers like Charles Caudrelier commented on how cruel the result had been for Turn the Tide. It says a lot about the respect and goodwill Dee and her team have earned. With three legs to go, Caffari remained as determined as ever.

“I don’t want the sympathy vote, I want to justify it on the water.”

Postscript: After this article was published in the July issue of Yachting World magazine, Turn the Tide on Plastic finished Legs 10 and 11 of the Volvo Ocean Race in 5th place, their best results of the race. This left the team tied in 6th place overall with Team Sun Hung Kai Scallywag.

In order to break the tie, Caffari’s team had to beat Scallywag in the in-port series, which meant not only finishing ahead of the Hong Kong team in the final in-port race in The Hague, but finishing with at least one boat in between them to give them a two point advantage. In the final in-port race Turn the Tide on Plastic were 4th, ahead of MAPFRE and Vestas 11th Hour Racing, with Scallywag in 7th. This gave Caffari and team 6th overall in the in-port series and overall Volvo Ocean Race.

The post Woman on a mission: what drives Dee Caffari? How the pioneering sailor went from PE teacher to Volvo skipper appeared first on Yachting World.

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