Biking Eastern Taiwan
I'd heard over the years that Taiwan's East Coast is beautiful and a popular place to cycle, and that you can rent bikes at one Giant store and return them at another, making a one way rental bike tour reasonable.
I'd never quite found the excuse + motivation to plan a trip there, so had that filed away in the "some day" mental list. Then a few months ago a friend reached out saying he wanted to bike in Taiwan and would I be interested? I said yes, and before I knew it we were riding twisty roads down gorgeous Taroko gorge after gorging on breakfast dumplings...
The route we took started partway up the gorge (we got a van ride up with our bikes the previous night, and I'm glad we did-- the hills would have been manageable, but there was a lot of traffic including tour buses on narrow windy roads along a cliff, so biking up could have been unpleasant). From there, we went down to the coast, then cut inland on the remote-feeling 193 through the East Rift Valley (very lush, few cars), before climbing up the coastal mountain range on the 30, through a tunnel, and then riding along the coast to Taitung. About 270 km / 180 miles over four days.
This is the general route we took, though it's a messy file, auto-traced from a raw GPS recording, so don't count on all the cues or details being correct: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/42626006
The roads were almost universally smooth pavement, generally flat with some rolling hills, sometimes with a wide bike lane / shoulder, and other times sharing mostly-quiet country roads with scooters and cars:
We decided to make this a hybrid hike/bike trip to try to really experience this part of Taiwan-- most days we'd get up early and do a ~2 hour hike at dawn, then have a leisurely breakfast before riding for about 4-5 hours (6-7 when you include stops for lunch, museums, and beaches), getting to our destination hotel in the late afternoon. Riding only ~40-50 mildly hilly miles each day gave us the flexibility to not worry about beating sunset or having to hurry, though the hottest day still felt fairly challenging by the end.
In general the food was excellent, ranging from succulent steamed dumplings with a lot of ginger, to probably the best bao I've had in my life, to a range of great greens and vegetables. Even the onigiri at the 7-Elevens were great (my favorite flavor was "chicken rice"):
These incredible bao were ~$1 at 纏記舊街東河包子, a roadside restaurant in Donghe. The left one is 酸菜包 (the second bun from the left on their menu), and tasted like it included pork, pickled mustard greens, and ground peanuts. The right one is black sesame.
The weather was decent-- we did this ride at the beginning of April, which is about the latest in the spring I'd want to do it-- it was very humid, and the hottest day was ~85F but felt much hotter in the direct sun. We also had one day where we rode in intermittent rain all day-- but once your socks are soaked, they can't get any wetter...
This was also a new style of touring for me-- a "semi-supported, but self-guided" tour by Grasshopper Adventures. They gave us maps of recommended routes, pre-booked all our hotels, arranged the bike rentals, and arranged a driver or cab to transport our luggage from one hotel to the next each morning while we rode (as well as the van ride up Taroko gorge to start), so we didn't have to carry all our belongings on-bike, while also being available for remote support.
But there was no tour guide riding with us, so we had to do our own navigation and minor repairs-- which meant we got to take whatever side detours, hikes, or stops we wanted without holding up a larger group. I liked this compromise-- it let me jump into the trip with much less advance planning...
Looking back at my notebook, some notes-to-self for the next tour:
It was nice to ride 40-50 mile days and have down time in the afternoon to just lounge and read or wander the town
Consider a loose rain poncho instead of raincoat when riding in hot + humid weather
7-Elevens in Taiwan are amazingly well-stocked, and widespread in most areas: don't need to bring snacks from home, but...
If it's hot in a more remote area, carry 3 bottles of water (on the East Rift Valley day we found minimal places to refill before lunch, two bottles was not enough)
Check I'm buying the salty snacks (I bought a bag of unknown-flavor potato chips without translating the label, figuring it would be a fun surprise... and they turned out to be the special salt-free chips...)
Carry a handkerchief-- while I carried some backup TP/soap/sanitizer, many public restrooms had no way to dry your hands, and many of the street food stalls provided a few wispy tissue-like napkins.
Schedule your to hit major tourist sites or scenic driving routes on weekdays, for lighter traffic. I've learned this before, and thought we had that well-planned by being in Taroko Gorge mid-week. But it turned out it was the last day of a holiday (Grave Sweeping Day) so there was more traffic than usual.
Google Translate on images works remarkably well for Chinese text (signs, menus, directions) these days-- not speaking the language was a challenge, but google translate at least made most restaurant menus and roadside warning signs manageable.
Overall, it was a great experience (and good group of laid-back folks to travel with, who were also interested in making lots of sightseeing or roadside snack stand stops along the way-- travel goals compatibility is important!)
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