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omgstupendousbouquetbasement · 5 years

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2016 GMC Truck Acadia AWD V6-3.6L Technical Service Bulletin # 00-00-89-027G Date: 121128

Interior - Eliminating Unwanted Odors in Vehicles

INFORMATION

Bulletin No.: 00-00-89-027G

Date: November 28, 2012

2016 GMC Truck Acadia AWD V6-3.6L Page 3

Subject: Eliminating Unwanted Odors in Vehicles

Models:

2013 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks

Attention:

Please direct this bulletin to the PARTS, USED CAR, BODY SHOP and SERVICE Managers.

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to add the 2013 model year and update the Parts Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number

00-00-89-027F (Section 00 - General Information).

Vehicle Odor Elimination

General Motors offers a product that may control or eliminate odors in the interior and luggage compartment areas of GM vehicles. GM Vehicle

Care Odor Eliminator is a non-toxic, biodegradable odor remover. This odorless product has been shown to greatly reduce or remove objectionable

smells of mold and mildew resulting from vehicle water leaks (as well as customer created odors, i.e. smoke). You may use GM Vehicle Care Odor

Eliminator on fabrics, vinyl, leather, carpet and sound deadening materials. It may also be induced into HVAC modules and instrument panel ducts

(for the control of non-bacterial related odors).

Important

This product leaves no residual scent and should not be sold as or considered an air freshener. Product action may result in the permanent

elimination of an odor and may be preferable to customers with allergies who are sensitive to perfumes.

How to Use This Product

GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator may be sprayed on in a ready-to-use formula or used in steam cleaners as an additive with carpet shampoo. This

water-based, odorless product is safe for all vehicle interiors. Do not wet or soak any interior surface that plain water would cause to deteriorate, as

this product will have the same effect. Also avoid letting this product come into contact with vinegar or any acidic substance. Acid-based products

will hamper the effectiveness of, or render GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator inert.

Instructions and cautions are printed on the bottle, but additional help is available. If you encounter a difficult to eliminate or reoccurring odor, you

may call 1-800-955-8591 (in Canada, 1-800-977-4145) to obtain additional information and usage suggestions.

Important

This product may effectively remove odors when directly contacting the odor source. It should be used in conjunction with diagnostic

procedures (in cases such as a water leak) to first eliminate the root cause of the odor, and then the residual odor to permanently correct

the vehicle condition.

Vehicle Waterleak Odor Elimination

STEP ONE:

Confirm that all water leaks have been repaired. Determine what areas of the vehicle were water soaked or wet. Components with visible

mold/mildew staining should be replaced. Isolate the odor source inside the vehicle. Often an odor can be isolated to an area or component of the

vehicle interior by careful evaluation. Odor evaluation may need to be performed by multiple persons. Another method of isolating an odor source is

to remove and segregate interior trim and components. Plastic sheeting or drop cloths can be used to confine seats, headliners, etc. to assist in

evaluation and diagnoses. If appropriate the vehicle and interior trim should be evaluated separately to determine if the odor stays with the vehicle or

the interior components. Odors that stay with the vehicle may be isolated to insulating and sound deadening materials (i.e. water leak at the

windshield or standing water in the front foot well area caused mold/mildew to form on the bulkhead or kick panel sound deadening pads. If the

interior is removed the floor pan and primed/painted surfaces should be treated with bleach/soap solution, rinsed with clean water and dried. Interior

surfaces should then be treated with GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator product before reinstalling carpet or reassembling.

The GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator product is an effective odor elimination product when used properly. It must come into direct contact with

the odor source. It should be used in conjunction with diagnostic procedures to first eliminate the root cause of the odor. Some procedures for use

after odor root cause correction are:

STEP TWO:

- Use the trigger spray head.

- Put a drop of dish soap the size of a quarter in the bottom of a bottle.

- Add 8 oz. of GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator (1 cup) to the dish soap and top off the bottle with tap water.

- This formula should be used on hard surfaces (dash, interior plastic molding, and floor pan).

2016 GMC Truck Acadia AWD V6-3.6L Page 4

STEP THREE:

The third step to neutralizing the vehicle is a light to medium treatment of all carpeting and upholstered seats with the GM Vehicle Care Odor

Eliminator formula and a wide fan spray setting (at full strength) (i.e.: carpeting on the driver's side requires 4-5 triggers pulls for coverage). The

headliner and trunk should be sprayed next. Lightly brushing the formula into the carpeting and upholstery is a recommended step for deep odor

problems. The dash and all hard surfaces should be sprayed with dish soap/water mixture. Let stand for 1-2 minutes then wipe off the surface.

STEP FOUR: (vehicle ventilation system treatment)

The ventilation system is generally the last step in the treatment of the vehicle.

- a. Spray the GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator formula into all dash vents. (1-2 trigger pulls per vent).

- b. Start the vehicle and turn the vehicle fan on high cool (not A/C setting).

- c. Spray the formula (10 trigger pulls) into the outside fresh air intake vent (cowl at base of windshield).

- d. Enter the vehicle after 1 minute and wipe off the excess formula spurting out of the dash vents.

- e. Smell the air coming from the dash vents. If odors are still present, spray another 5 triggers into the cowl, wait another minute and smell the

results. Once you have obtained a fresh, clean smell coming from the vents, turn the system to the A/C re-circulation setting. Roll up the

windows, spray 3-5 pumps into the right lower IP area and let the vehicle run with the fan set on high for 5-7 minutes.

Additional Suggestions to Increase Customer Satisfaction

Here are some additional ideas to benefit your dealership and to generate greater customer enthusiasm for this product.

- Keep this product on-hand for both the Service Department and the Used Car lot. Add value to your used car trades; treat loaner and demo

cars during service and at final sale to eliminate smoke, pet, and other common odors offensive to customers. Make deodorizing a vehicle part

of your normal vehicle detailing service.

- Consider including GM Vehicle Care Odor Eliminator as a give-away item with new vehicle purchases. Many dealers give away as "gifts"

various cleaning supplies at time of delivery. GM Odor Eliminator is one of a few products GM offers that has as many uses in the home as in

the vehicle. Customers may find this product can be used for a host of recreational activities associated with their new vehicle, such as

deodorizing a boat they tow, or a camper.

- GM Odor Eliminator and many of the GM Vehicle Care products offer you the chance to increase dealership traffic as these superior quality

products cannot be purchased in stores. Many Dealerships have product displays at the parts counter. Consider additional displays in

the Customer Service Lounge, the Showroom and at the Service Desk or Cashier Window. Many customers who purchase vehicles

and receive regular maintenance at your dealership may never visit the parts counter, and subsequently are not exposed to the

variety and value that these products offer.

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jhrestorationllc · 6 years

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Done Right Services,Foundation Crack Repair,Basement Concrete Floor Coatings Boston,MA,NH

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itsworn · 6 years

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We Install a Home-Built Twin-Turbo System for ZedSled, Our 1978 Camaro

My first drive in a turbocharged street car was a 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse with the 210HP 2G turbo setup. That car was super fun and gave me an appreciation of forced induction and how quickly it feeds the adreno-meter! Fast forward to the present day with Zed Sled, our 6.0L-powered 1978 Z/28, and it’s easy to imagine the potential. It weighs just a few hundred pounds more and makes four times the horsepower. We’re hooked!

Because the aftermarket has really begun to embrace turbochargers in the domestic market, it seemed logical that someone would make a bolt-in kit for our application. We couldn’t find any, however, so we called John Urist at Hellion PowerSystems, a company that has been instrumental in providing turnkey turbocharger kits for late model vehicles. John and his team provided great tech support, and John even spec’d the Turbonetics turbos, Turbosmart wastegates and blow off valves for us. We were hoping that the hot and cold-side plumbing from their Gen V Camaro kit would help us plumb the majority of our install. Unfortunately we weren’t able to use much of the cold-side from Hellion due to the vast differences in architecture between the generations of Camaro. The solution came down to tons of researching, a lot of trial fitting, and good ol-fashioned car crafting. TC Penick, owner of Bay One customs has been a huge help all the way through this build and TC spent a couple of days with us mocking up the plumbing in what is the heart of ZedSed V-II. We wanted to show you the basic steps of our mockup and planning, and pass on some tips on how we broke new ground in the aftermarket making a “turbo kit” for ZedSled and hopefully helping other second gen owners with the same goal of a turbocharged LS power.

Tons of research told us that if we wanted to use a stock hood, we were either going to have to use a tailpipe turbo setup, or to get all the accessories out of the way of our up-and-forward Trick Flow headers. Vintage Air offers a beautiful solution in the form of their FrontRunner accessory drive. This is a complete bolt-in system with A/C, power steering, and all the hardware necessary to bring everything in tighter and higher, for learance in a tight engine bay, or in our case to make room for exhaust tubing.

We started by removing the Holley’s accessory drive as well as the harmonic damper using the new Summit Racing removal tool.

ATI’s damper that comes with the Frontrunner setup was installed with the same set, followed by the supplied Crankshaft bolt. This bolt cannot be safely reused, since it’s torque-to-yield.

The FrontRunner drive includes stainless steel screw-in studs that hold the brackets and framework securely to the LS block. This also helps eliminate misalignment between accessories.

The new FrontRunner water pump comes with new gaskets, and is placed on the studs first with the rest of the system built around it. We are not showing the complete installation of this system, but we do make the point that it needs to be fully installed to factor in clearances.

Several anodized billet support brackets make up the mounting system, and work in concert with studs and other stainless hardware.

Here you can see how tightly the A/C pump is tucked into the upper passenger side.

We need to see clearances for all pulleys, tensioners, and belts, so the new power steering pump pulley is installed on the pump assembly and installed on the engine.

With the FrontRunner fully assembled and in between Trick Flow’s turbo headers ( PN#TFS-LSXT), you can see the benefits of this system and why it’s necessary in order to retain a full set of engine accessories.

TC Penick from Bay One Customs spent a couple of days with us mocking up the basic turbocharging system. His experience in fabrication and power adders, as well as LS swaps, was quite handy while we worked out the overall placement problems.

We traced out our eBay air-to-air charge cooler onto some white Hobby-Lobby foam-core and created a mock up intercooler so as not to beat up the aluminum one while installing and removing it 40 or 50 times.

The long nose of the late second-gen F-body cars gives us lots of potential space for cooling locations. This universal air-to air cooler was designed to fit a S197 Coyote powered Mustang turbo setup. The price was right, and it’s perfect for our application.

The hollow front face bar gives us options for protective hot and cold side tube routing, while still retaining most of the impact protection designed into the car’s bumper system.

We’ve removed a sizeable portion of the lower impact beam to fit the cooler. This will be reinforced later with steel tubing in front, as well as plating the ends and edges to build back strength.

This is a photo of the original placement of the radiator in the naturally-aspirated version of ZedSled. We needed to find at least 3 inches of clearance between the engine and the radiator support.

TC Enlarged the opening of the support, which eliminated mounting flanges on the inside and completely eliminated the lower shelf so we could relocate the radiator and buy back the room we needed.

With the radiator screwed into place on the support, we can set the charge cooler into its permanent position and lock it down.

We set our customized NPD Flex-glass bumper cover in place to check for flow-through air delivery. You can see the extra airflow that an inverted upper-grille opening will give us, ensuring ample fresh air supply.

Hot and cold side plumbing was finished using Hooker Blackheart universal mandrel-bent stainless exhaust tubing: 2.50-inch ID for the hot side, 3 inches for the cold side inlet air.

We used a hole saw to create the openings in the core support that we needed for pipe routing.

John Urist, from Hellion Power Systems, uses Turbonetics equipment in their kits. He helped us choose the turbos, wastegates, and blow-off valves that will work together in for our combination. The turbos are 62mm ball bearing 60 series with polished housings. With a .85 AR, we will have a nice compromise of low end torque, drivability, and peak power at high RPM. They also give us power potential up to around the 1000hp range, with the right engine build, or course!

We spent a good deal of time finding the correct location for the turbos. There had to be enough hood clearance, as well as enough room for inlet and exhaust tubing and space for ambient air for heat dissipation.

When we decided on the best location for the turbos, we welded in the V-Band flanges to the collectors. We chose V-band clamps and flanges from Summit for their easy installation, as well as the ability to clock the connections if adjustment was needed.

The final pipe routing is done with stainless tubing, but we used couplers for speedy assembly and disassembly during mock up.

The cold side is nicely protected behind the bumper impact bar, and routes through the core support.

Another incredibly valuable tool we found for mockup was corrugated aluminum dryer hose from our local home improvement center. This tubing holds its diameter while remaining flexible and light. At $10.00 per 6 foot section, it was well worth the $40.00 investment.

To complete the hot side plumbing, we drilled mounting locations for the wastegates in the collectors. Some builders vent the wastegates to atmosphere, but we decided to return the wastegate gasses to the down-pipe to control noise.

For some vibration dampening as well as serviceability, we used Vibrant Performance stainless steel bellows couplers welded inline to of the wastegate outets.

We gave the engine compartment a nice, symmetrical look by placing the waste gates opposite each other. Note there is a 2-degree tilt of the wastegate into the exhaust path as they’re mounted to the header collector.

Our original plan was to have the passenger side exhaust cross to the drivers side fender outlet, and the driver-side to the passenger fender. This would have worked great if we didn’t need steering parts, chassis braces, and lower control arms. Many tack welds were cut and re-welded until we finally had a viable exhaust routing plan.

Here you can see the routing of the downpipes under the turbos and out to the fenders. There is clearance between the radiator, cooling fan, accessories, and inlet tubing, but not very much. The potential for heat-soak at these intersections is huge, and somewhat concerning.

A closer look at exhaust routing shows the location of oxygen sensors, as well as the direction of the pipe in front of the wheel at the bottom of the fender. The exhaust is hard-mounted ahead of the the Vibrant Performance flex couplers. The steering box location poses a problem for routing the driver side, presents a challenge for turbo oil-drains that need a fair amount of drop for gravity draining back into the oil pan.

We dropped the car to ride-height to check clearance for the 3-inch inlet tube. Here it shows 4 inches off the road, but we were able to dimple the pipe and bring that level up to 5 inches off the road, which is still higher than the center cross member, but a little vulnerable to road-gators.

Pressurized Oil is pumped into the top of the turbochargers’ bearing assembly, then drains back into the oil pan. We markws a good location for the return line in the oil pan that that is above the oil level at idle.

We used a step-drill to cut the holes for the drain back bulkhead fittings to be installed on both sides of the pan. Wade McGowan at Race Part Solutions was another great source of information and parts during this build. We picked up all the turbo oil and vacuum lines from them, as well as a ton of great advice along the way.

One mistake you can learn from us on is to install bulkhead fittings tightly using the supplied washers, but also back it up with some RTV on the outside of the new port. We’ve got an annoying oil leak on the passenger side that requires dropping the pan to repair.

The drain-back lines are -10AN, while the oil feed lines to the turbos are -4AN. with all the different sized fitting we used in a build like this, we recommend investing in Koul-Tools’ AN hose Assembly Tool; it’s worth it.

We routed oil lines from this Sandwich adapter we got from Glowshift for about $30. It saved us from having to do any drilling and gave us multiple routing options for the oil feed lines to the turbos. Consistent oil pressure is critical, and this is an excellent source for unrestricted, matched pressure for each turbo.

This is the finished installation. We’ve subjected it to more than a dozen dyno pulls and 1,500 miles of driving. Notice the copious amounts of Heat Shield Products header wrap, thermal insulation, turbo blankets, and other accessories. Isolation of the hot parts is quite effective, and the engine coolant rarely exceeds 210 degrees, even under extreme punishment. DBR High Performance in Spring Hill TN calibrated everything, and with the stock LQ4 rods and pistons, boost is pulled back to a safe 10psi and timing is a modest 15 degrees. There’s plenty of room for adjustment and tons more power on the table if we want to play, but we’re making 584HP, and 610 Ft/Lbs at the tires in its current trim, and the car a ball to drive! Who knows, we may get brave and go for max power with a water-meth kit or race gas, but for now we’ve got some fun miles to put on ZedSled!

Parts List

Trick Flow Stainless Turbo Headers ( pair) $1,200.00 Vintage Air Frontrunner LS $2,779.00 Turbonetics T3 ballbearingTurbos (ea) $1,250.00 Air to Air dual outlet, single inlet intercooler $195.00 Consumables, cutoff wheels, saw blades, etc $45.00

The post We Install a Home-Built Twin-Turbo System for ZedSled, Our 1978 Camaro appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

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jeantparks · 7 years

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What the heck’s going on aboard Yahtzee?

There’s been a lot of progress going on aboard Yahtzee these days. While Jill’s been working during the week, I’ve been getting as much done with the boys as possible and then when the weekends come, I’m on it. The thing is, I’ve found that even though a number jobs have been started, there aren’t many that have been finished. And the ones that have been completed would probably be noticeable to only Jill or me. Ahh, such is the life of boat projects.

Thankfully I get to walk down to all the boat projects with views like this.

Upon last report, I’d ripped out some plumbing to the sink in the aft head and built a new drawer, re-finished the windlass motor and basically gotten the boat ready for an Alaskan winter. Since that time there has been a flurry of things happening, decisions being made and lots of indecision about which way to go on a few projects.

Though a lot may not be “finished” yet, here’s what’s in the works:

Re-finishing Woodwork

A primary consideration when thinking about moving off the boat for the winter was that we could tackle some work we otherwise wouldn’t with four souls aboard. Sanding and varnishing was very near the top of that list.

While Yahtzee has some nicely finished brightwork down below, there were some places that had become a little lackluster over the years. Chief among them were the areas around the companionway and the main bulkhead behind our cabin heater. Due to a lack of heat displacing material, heat from the diesel fireplace dried out the wood and made the finish look a bit off. Also, there were a few dings that needed fixing.

Woodwork isn’t necessarily difficult, but neither is it interesting or fun to write about. It’s just time consuming and relatively messy. I’ve spent days sanding, cleaning up the dust, varnishing and then sanding some more. And then I put in some new aluminum flashing to protect the wood.

Part of the companionway before…

…and after.

So far, everything has turned out exceptionally well. Plus, a new project sprouted when we began sprucing up the interior a bit: a new headliner. Yahtzee’s headliner, or ceiling, has never been my favorite part of the boat, but I wasn’t keen on doing the project while we lived aboard. Now we’re in the perfect spot to get this done. So stay tuned on that one.

Pondering our Heater

To get started on the bulkhead woodwork, I had to remove our diesel fireplace. What I found is a heater that is in very tired shape. We’ve given it a lot of use over the years and spent time and money repairing it along the way. And now might be the moment to cut our losses and get a new one. It’s old, the back is rusty and brittle, and it creates a ton of nasty soot. In researching replacements, I realized that a new diesel heater isn’t as expensive as I thought, and that newer models will actually provide the same amount of heat in a smaller, more user-friendly unit. If anyone has experience with the Dickinson Alaska, I’m all ears.

New Arch Solution

One of the things that has always bothered me about our boat and home is how the wind turbine and radar are — or should I say, were — setup on the stern. Several problems existed here: they were each mounted on the aft end of the cockpit coamings with four large bolts and then had a hole cut for wires. That’s 10 holes in the deck! Why, when one of them is bound to leak — and the starboard pole did. The other problem is that the starboard pole was mounted directly above the AC inlet and battery charger. That makes no sense to me.

Yahtzee with the ugly old poles.

No poles.

The other problem with the whole setup is that it was clearly put together in separate stages by one or two previous owners and didn’t match. They basically mishmashed an arch together that didn’t look good or function all that well.

My goal, then, is to have a new aluminum arch fabricated that gets welded and bolted solidly to the toe rail on each side. I’ve got an engineer and welder helping who clearly knows his stuff and is working through this with me to make sure we get it right. By welding it to the toe rail, which is exceptionally strong, we can fill 8 holes in the deck, get rid of the leak and leave two holes for wires. That’s a win. Another win is that I can properly run new wires with actual seals that don’t let water in. Once the arch has been mounted, we can then weld on radar and antenna brackets, the wind turbine, and anything else that suits my fancy. That project, too, is in the works.

Cushions

The bottom line here is that we need new cushions and we want them done well. This isn’t a project, per se, because we’re not doing them ourselves, but getting new interior cushions in the salon has been on our list since we bought Yahtzee over five years ago. And for good reason. The ones we have are from 1984 and are, should I say, past their prime. Because this is a job we’re hiring out, it’s the first of the big ticket, just-plunk-down-the-cash, type things that just have to get done. Once it is done it’ll make a huge difference, and then we’ll be on to the next one — new sails?

These old cushions had to go.

Fortunately, writing all this out and reading through it makes me think, “Wow, this is all doable!” But for every project I’ve started and have yet to finish there are many more waiting on the list that I’m sure will — whether out of necessity or due to my own wild ideas — spawn new ones. Such is the life of a sailor and boat owner. And I wouldn’t have it any other way.