#butterick6870

[professorpski]

Spring Cutaway Collar, Can it Be for the Office? Butterick 6870

This re-issued pattern from the 1950s shows the two silhouettes which became popular in 1947 when Christian Dior of Paris launched his post-war New Look. Both have soft shoulders and small waistlines, while the best known as the look of the 1950s is the full-skirted silhouette, and the lesser known the slender silhouette was very popular as well, and it needed a back kickpleat to make movement possible.

Here both dresses share what they call a “cutaway cape collar” which is why I am puzzled at the detachable collar on the slender, navy-blue look. Navy blue and detachable collars were a common look for the basic dress, a dress that could have cuffs, collars, accessories, and even buttons switched out for variety in a small wardrobe. Such a wardrobe was essential to the college woman and to the wage-earning office worker. But such a low-collar would have been considered a bit flirty for the office in the 1950s. And it is shaped so that putting a sweater or short jacket would be awkward. So office workwear, party dress, or a strange hybrid? Hard to say.

The large-skirted version is clearly party wear, notice the ribbon in the back of the collar which serves no purpose except to add to the swaying movement of the woman wearing it. It seems a wonderful choice for spring weddings, graduation parties, and other celebrations. Crispy fabrics will serve for either silhouette and they recommend shantung, faille, linen, cotton pique and broadcloth; they also recommend crepe, but that does not make a lot of sense as it has a soft drape.

Both have cut-on sleeves, short, or longer with elbow darts. Such sleeves have less movement possible in them, so if you opt for long, consider whether you want to add an underarm gusset--a diamond-shaped piece--which will give you more freedom.

This comes in modern sizes and can be found at your local fabric store or here:  https://somethingdelightful.com/butterick/b6870

[delicatetheoristanarchist]