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Restaurant Zeughaus | St.Gallen | Switzerland #thisismysaintgallen #stgallen #saintgall #saintgallen #switzerland #schweiz #suisse #restaurant #ostschweiz #sommer2022 #europa #europe #eurocitytrip #citytrip #städetetrip #städtereise #städtereisen #städtetrip #citytravel #thisismycity #lovestgallen #meinestadtsg (hier: Saint Gallen) https://www.instagram.com/p/Cia1wKGKYJQ/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

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Guide to Ljubljana, Slovenia – The Old, Alternative and Green Capital of Europe

My trip to Ljubljana was a combination of a #EuroCityTrip project to highlight the city as a ‘cool neighbour’ to Austria’s second largest city of Graz in partnership with both city tourism offices. Perfect as part of a multi-country city hopping trip, you’ll be surprised how much they have in common being so close to one another.

Slovenia’s capital of Ljubljana is all the pretty things you hear about.

Except Ljubljana is more than the sum of its charming Old Town status that many do not look beyond, thereby setting a course in time for overcrowding as well as missing out on the young, artistic minds that have come to also shape the city.

Ljubljana is a mix of the old and charming, dominated by the architectural visions of the father of design, Plečnik; the hip cultural and art scene alive in alternative neighbourhoods and the student influence; and with access to relaxation and adventure in the surrounding countryside, where 70% of Slovenia’s population reside.

It’s a small capital city combining all means of exploration and interests in one. Being located in the centre of Slovenia means having a pivotal point to explore all corners of the country easily, which can be easily done via day trips. And that’s before you start thinking of your ‘Euro City Trip’ further, and how you are easily connected and in good distance to neighbouring Italy and Croatia, as well as Austria and Ljubljana’s ‘sister city’ and cool neighbour of Graz (which was the city hopping route I took).

Ljubljana has a ‘small town feel’ but with big European capital vibes, which is what you can expect from a capital that is nestled between central Europe and the Mediterranean.

My four days there was a perfect introduction to the variation of European capitals in central Europe and to my first foray into Slovenia. Here’s my guide to Ljubljana and its multi-faceted layers for all kinds of curious traveller. Living in Austria, I certainly have no excuses to not return…

Ljubljana Charm: The Old Town

Like any visitor, the Old Town was top of my list to explore. Like most former medieval strongholds, it’s compact yet full of a long, historical timeline of architectural styles and charms. In Ljubljana, this means endless cobblestone conveyor belts of streets that present numerous bridges, intricate townhouse facades, palaces, fountains, statues, monuments, churches and squares (of which Trg Republike next to the Slovenian parliament building is the largest).

Place all of that within the Mediterranean atmosphere of streets lined with tables, humming outdoor markets, a slew of coffee shops and those revelling in wine tasting and locals casually wheeling past pastel boulevards on their bicycles, and you’ve got yourself a very attractive city.

A city that has preserved a huge timelines of historical changes, which is what cultural geeks like me get really excited about.

There are still remains of the Roman city of Emona in the serene, green-filled outer city suburb of Trnovo – one of the oldest areas of the city, built outside of the city medieval walls, that used to be home to the fisherman.

Then you have the remnants of the medieval days including the 15th century old town hall on Mestni trg and when you stroll Vegova Ulica Street to follow the course of the former medieval town wall, where a tower still stands at the end of the street.

Renaissance era and Baroque (the latter designs found mostly in Stari trg, the oldest part of the city) fill the town, as they do in most European cities, providing the kind of charming city campus we all love to experience in variation across the continent. In Ljubljana, the more quirky Art Nouveau structures from the early 20th century can be found in the area between the old city and railway station.

The Dragon’s Bridge, adorned with giant emerald green dragon figures is the city’s first Art Nouveau creation made in 1901.

Then of course, there is the design works of Plečnik – Ljubljana’s famous architect and urban designer.

Ljubljana’s Modern Architectural Legacy: Jože Plečnik’s Urban Design

In Vienna, I live just minutes from some structures designed by the Slovenian father of design. He left his visionary marks in many parts of Europe (having studied in Graz, Vienna and later becoming the Chief Architect in charge of Prague castle renovation), but he transformed his hometown of Ljubljana in the period between the two world wars (the era referred to as ‘Plečnik’s Ljubljana’).

All his works in Ljubljana were created in less than 20 years and his constructions here are rated some of the most prominent works of European art of the 20th Century. You likely stumble or stroll upon them without realising but the main design works include:

The Cobbler’s Bridge (connecting Mestini trg to Stari trg) designed to be a ‘square’ above the water.

The Triple Bridge (where two bridges were added to an original stone bridge) and the Butcher’s bridge (to create more space in the central market’s colonnade for trading) which you can spot by the love locks and opaque floor.

There’s also the Žale Cemetery, the promenade in Tivoli Park (Ljubljana’s largest) and the National and University Library.

I visited the NUK Café in the library to take part in an honourary Plečnik tradition – for tea, just as it was made for him by his housekeeper, in a strainer cup just like the one he used, and served with a honey biscuit (Plečnik loved honey) – before heading to his house (Karunova 4-6) in Trnovo that is now a permanent exhibition and has been left the exact same way since his death in 1957.

You can grab a map of Plečnik’s 39 works in Ljubljana from the Tourism Information centre and go on a self-guided walk.

Modern Slovenian Cuisine in Old Ljubljana. Reinventing Tradition

Not only is it about the architecture, but Ljubljana thrives on the atmosphere that comes from the food and drink scene that mixes traditional with the modern in a city where young local chefs and international kitchen wizards are the force behind the reinvention.

We had lunch in Atelji, cooked up by one of Ljubljana’s award-winning chefs. Other recommendations include healthy menu of Mala Terasa Bistro in the Skyscraper Nebotičnik for food with a view, and to sample the international influence of Slovenian cuisine check out the Japanese chef influence at Bazilika and the middle-eastern feasts at Abi Falafel.

However, to get a real taste for how vast the option are in Ljubljana, the Open Kitchen Market should be top of your list. Every Friday the best chefs and city eateries come together, each with their own stall for locals and visitors to enjoy dishes on the spot. All washed down with fines wines, a good crowd and some music pumping in the background. It’s crowded, but for good reason.

Ljubljana Castle: The Symbol of the City

If there was ever a breakfast so wonderfully presented 376 metres on the hill, it is at the restaurant Gostilna na Gradu at Ljubljana castle and a great way to begin the exploration up here. In showcasing traditional eats and local ingredients, this breakfast serving is a part of a project established in 2015 giving hoteliers and restaurants the chance to bring farm to table.

The site of a former fortress, military warehouse, army barracks, prison and even apartments is worth strolling, especially for the panorama views and walks along the old ramparts and towers.

It’s a complex catalogue of Ljubljana’s past – whose early beginnings in the early 1100’s are recorded before being turned into a stone fortress in the 13th century, where it came under the estate of the Habsburgs in 1335 who demolished it and rebuilt it as new. It was ‘repurchased’ in 1905 by the then major of Ljubljana from Austro-Hungarian authorities.

The castle is now the core symbol of the city and the most visited tourist attraction, complete with interactive exhibitions on Slovene and Ljubljana history. There’s even stones with fossils dating back 310 million years! So take the one-minute funicular ride up, whether for breakfast, the city views or to enjoy one of the many social and cultural events like theatre shows, open-air cinema screenings, ‘Castle Summer Nights’ concerts and major annual events, including the Pink Week Ball that I attended.

Modern, Gritty Ljubljana – The Alternative Arts Scene

I’m always seeking out the ‘other side’ to these pretty pastel old cities, and of course in Ljubljana, artists have found their space for expression.

While small murals can be found in the old town, like the images above, you’ll know when you’ve crossed into the more gritty neighbourhoods.These corners of the city are home to street art, sculpture art, and artist galleries and studios that are home to an underground music scene of alternative bars and clubs at night. I couldn’t imagine Ljubljana without this contrast, since it’s such a striking and fascinating difference to the Old Town.

Metelkova (which is a site of an abandoned barracks, turned urban squat, turned artists studios) is therefore the place to be to experience new Ljubljana, whose injection of cool partly comes from its 60,000 students.

In the day time, I loved photographing the eclectic mix of art, from wall mosaics to giant sculptures (including a horror-house looking façade of giant sperm), and at night I ventured out to revel with the cool kids and students of the city as they party in these clubs and gather in droves on these very streets. I got a good feel for the real Ljubljana as it stands today – young, vibrant and outrageously artistic.

The hostel on site, should you want to base yourself here, is a former prison where all rooms are former cells and made to still look like them (but with more comfortable touches!).

I was told there wasn’t a lot to see at the Rog Factory, which is a short walk away from Metelkova, but I disagree. Should the door to the site be open, it’s well worth a wander. One room was an ariel silk practice area, others artists were working away in their small studios and the courtyard was filled with junk art, murals and even a robot sculpture made of metal. It’s a fascinating, reformed space where anything goes.

Green Ljubljana – Adventures in City Nature

Ljubljana is described as a “small capital with a green soul”, which means there’s plenty more to visually feast on than the gorgeous old town architecture. Central Slovenia is a blanket of nature filled with lakes, hills and mountains. Look out for my next post where I will be exploring all the hiking, biking and countryside fun in and around Ljubljana, which you can easily combine with a trip to the city.

The heart of Slovenia and a lesser-known darling of central Europe, Ljubljana will charm you with its old town, but surprise you with how much more it has to offer. It might just be time to re-think your European city-hopping route.

Things to Know:

How to Get to Ljubljana and Around

Well connected by rail, European buses like Flix and by plane, the Slovenian company GoOpti also operates car transfers between neighbouring cities and neighbouring country airports in Germany, Austria, Croatia and Italy. We took the GoOpti transfer from Graz to Ljubljana and I also took it back to Vienna from Ljubljana, where you share a car with other travellers booked on the same journey or route. You are reminded about your journey via text both 24 hours before and when your vehicle has arrived.

Attractions in Ljubljana

The Ljubljana card is an all-inclusive card giving you access to over 20 major attractions and museums, travel on the city buses, a guided city tour and 24-hour Internet access. You can save 10% by booking online.

24 hours: €27

48 hours: €34

72 hours: €39

Where to Stay in Ljubljana

I stayed in Hotel Gallaria, a part of the Old Town and on its quiet fringes.  It sits on the corner of some restaurants and coffee shops (which are open until late!), and is a five minute walk to the very centre of the old town where the action is.

The former prison turned design hostel in the alternative area of Metlekova is called Celica Art Hostel, with 20 unique cell rooms to choose from. It’s five minutes walk from the main train station and 10 to the very heart of town.

For those looking for luxury, the 4 star Grand Union Hotel, just metres from Preseren Square and the Triple Bridge. From the early 20th century, it is the oldest in the city, built during the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. It is considered to be one of the most significant Art Nouveau architectural structures in central Europe.

Getting Around Ljubljana

In the Old Town, which is a vehicle free zone, a free shuttle bus/buggy system exists where you can get from one end of the Old Town to another quickly. It’s super handy at times, although the joy is in walking.

If you want to use the bus (without a Ljubljana card), you will need to purchase an ‘Urbana’ card from a newspaper stand. It costs €2. Each bus tickets cost €1.20 and is valid for 90 minutes.

Bikes are everywhere in Ljubljana, to the point where you’ll feel like you are in Amsterdam. Should you wish to join the city cyclists, bicycles can be hired in summer and autumn from the Slovenian Tourist Information Centre on Krekov trg 10, for €2 for 2 hours and €8 for two hours or more. You can also use the Bicike(LJ) hire network with 36 docking stations around the city. The first hour is free and every additional hour is €1. You have to register online first.

Ljubljana City Tours and Excursions in Slovenia

There’s a whole host of city tours and day excursions, from culinary and cultural walks, to beer and bicycle tours, as well as day trips to many parts of Slovenia and neighbouring countries such as Italy. All can be booked from the Tourism Office in the heart of the Old Town on Stritarjeva ulica (street). Slovenia is so small, it is said you can visit any point of the country in a day.

What time of the Year is Best to Visit Ljubljana?

Ljubljana is considered to have a ‘continental climate’ making it both a winter haven, given the rolling green that surrounds it, and with beautiful Mediterranean climate in the summer months

  The post Guide to Ljubljana, Slovenia – The Old, Alternative and Green Capital of Europe appeared first on Borders Of Adventure.

via Travel Blogs http://ift.tt/2vo4jsE

[fadingfartconnoisseur]

Guide to Ljubljana, Slovenia – The Old, Alternative and Green Capital of Europe

My trip to Ljubljana was a combination of a #EuroCityTrip project to highlight the city as a ‘cool neighbour’ to Austria’s second largest city of Graz in partnership with both city tourism offices. Perfect as part of a multi-country city hopping trip, you’ll be surprised how much they have in common being so close to one another.

Slovenia’s capital of Ljubljana is all the pretty things you hear about.

Except Ljubljana is more than the sum of its charming Old Town status that many do not look beyond, thereby setting a course in time for overcrowding as well as missing out on the young, artistic minds that have come to also shape the city.

Ljubljana is a mix of the old and charming, dominated by the architectural visions of the father of design, Plečnik; the hip cultural and art scene alive in alternative neighbourhoods and the student influence; and with access to relaxation and adventure in the surrounding countryside, where 70% of Slovenia’s population reside.

It’s a small capital city combining all means of exploration and interests in one. Being located in the centre of Slovenia means having a pivotal point to explore all corners of the country easily, which can be easily done via day trips. And that’s before you start thinking of your ‘Euro City Trip’ further, and how you are easily connected and in good distance to neighbouring Italy and Croatia, as well as Austria and Ljubljana’s ‘sister city’ and cool neighbour of Graz (which was the city hopping route I took).

Ljubljana has a ‘small town feel’ but with big European capital vibes, which is what you can expect from a capital that is nestled between central Europe and the Mediterranean.

My four days there was a perfect introduction to the variation of European capitals in central Europe and to my first foray into Slovenia. Here’s my guide to Ljubljana and its multi-faceted layers for all kinds of curious traveller. Living in Austria, I certainly have no excuses to not return…

Ljubljana Charm: The Old Town

Like any visitor, the Old Town was top of my list to explore. Like most former medieval strongholds, it’s compact yet full of a long, historical timeline of architectural styles and charms. In Ljubljana, this means endless cobblestone conveyor belts of streets that present numerous bridges, intricate townhouse facades, palaces, fountains, statues, monuments, churches and squares (of which Trg Republike next to the Slovenian parliament building is the largest).

Place all of that within the Mediterranean atmosphere of streets lined with tables, humming outdoor markets, a slew of coffee shops and those revelling in wine tasting and locals casually wheeling past pastel boulevards on their bicycles, and you’ve got yourself a very attractive city.

A city that has preserved a huge timelines of historical changes, which is what cultural geeks like me get really excited about.

There are still remains of the Roman city of Emona in the serene, green-filled outer city suburb of Trnovo – one of the oldest areas of the city, built outside of the city medieval walls, that used to be home to the fisherman.

Then you have the remnants of the medieval days including the 15th century old town hall on Mestni trg and when you stroll Vegova Ulica Street to follow the course of the former medieval town wall, where a tower still stands at the end of the street.

Renaissance era and Baroque (the latter designs found mostly in Stari trg, the oldest part of the city) fill the town, as they do in most European cities, providing the kind of charming city campus we all love to experience in variation across the continent. In Ljubljana, the more quirky Art Nouveau structures from the early 20th century can be found in the area between the old city and railway station.

The Dragon’s Bridge, adorned with giant emerald green dragon figures is the city’s first Art Nouveau creation made in 1901.

Then of course, there is the design works of Plečnik – Ljubljana’s famous architect and urban designer.

Ljubljana’s Modern Architectural Legacy: Jože Plečnik’s Urban Design

In Vienna, I live just minutes from some structures designed by the Slovenian father of design. He left his visionary marks in many parts of Europe (having studied in Graz, Vienna and later becoming the Chief Architect in charge of Prague castle renovation), but he transformed his hometown of Ljubljana in the period between the two world wars (the era referred to as ‘Plečnik’s Ljubljana’).

All his works in Ljubljana were created in less than 20 years and his constructions here are rated some of the most prominent works of European art of the 20th Century. You likely stumble or stroll upon them without realising but the main design works include:

The Cobbler’s Bridge (connecting Mestini trg to Stari trg) designed to be a ‘square’ above the water.

The Triple Bridge (where two bridges were added to an original stone bridge) and the Butcher’s bridge (to create more space in the central market’s colonnade for trading) which you can spot by the love locks and opaque floor.

There’s also the Žale Cemetery, the promenade in Tivoli Park (Ljubljana’s largest) and the National and University Library.

I visited the NUK Café in the library to take part in an honourary Plečnik tradition – for tea, just as it was made for him by his housekeeper, in a strainer cup just like the one he used, and served with a honey biscuit (Plečnik loved honey) – before heading to his house (Karunova 4-6) in Trnovo that is now a permanent exhibition and has been left the exact same way since his death in 1957.

You can grab a map of Plečnik’s 39 works in Ljubljana from the Tourism Information centre and go on a self-guided walk.

Modern Slovenian Cuisine in Old Ljubljana. Reinventing Tradition

Not only is it about the architecture, but Ljubljana thrives on the atmosphere that comes from the food and drink scene that mixes traditional with the modern in a city where young local chefs and international kitchen wizards are the force behind the reinvention.

We had lunch in Atelji, cooked up by one of Ljubljana’s award-winning chefs. Other recommendations include healthy menu of Mala Terasa Bistro in the Skyscraper Nebotičnik for food with a view, and to sample the international influence of Slovenian cuisine check out the Japanese chef influence at Bazilika and the middle-eastern feasts at Abi Falafel.

However, to get a real taste for how vast the option are in Ljubljana, the Open Kitchen Market should be top of your list. Every Friday the best chefs and city eateries come together, each with their own stall for locals and visitors to enjoy dishes on the spot. All washed down with fines wines, a good crowd and some music pumping in the background. It’s crowded, but for good reason.

Ljubljana Castle: The Symbol of the City

If there was ever a breakfast so wonderfully presented 376 metres on the hill, it is at the restaurant Gostilna na Gradu at Ljubljana castle and a great way to begin the exploration up here. In showcasing traditional eats and local ingredients, this breakfast serving is a part of a project established in 2015 giving hoteliers and restaurants the chance to bring farm to table.

The site of a former fortress, military warehouse, army barracks, prison and even apartments is worth strolling, especially for the panorama views and walks along the old ramparts and towers.

It’s a complex catalogue of Ljubljana’s past – whose early beginnings in the early 1100’s are recorded before being turned into a stone fortress in the 13th century, where it came under the estate of the Habsburgs in 1335 who demolished it and rebuilt it as new. It was ‘repurchased’ in 1905 by the then major of Ljubljana from Austro-Hungarian authorities.

The castle is now the core symbol of the city and the most visited tourist attraction, complete with interactive exhibitions on Slovene and Ljubljana history. There’s even stones with fossils dating back 310 million years! So take the one-minute funicular ride up, whether for breakfast, the city views or to enjoy one of the many social and cultural events like theatre shows, open-air cinema screenings, ‘Castle Summer Nights’ concerts and major annual events, including the Pink Week Ball that I attended.

Modern, Gritty Ljubljana – The Alternative Arts Scene

I’m always seeking out the ‘other side’ to these pretty pastel old cities, and of course in Ljubljana, artists have found their space for expression.

While small murals can be found in the old town, like the images above, you’ll know when you’ve crossed into the more gritty neighbourhoods.These corners of the city are home to street art, sculpture art, and artist galleries and studios that are home to an underground music scene of alternative bars and clubs at night. I couldn’t imagine Ljubljana without this contrast, since it’s such a striking and fascinating difference to the Old Town.

Metelkova (which is a site of an abandoned barracks, turned urban squat, turned artists studios) is therefore the place to be to experience new Ljubljana, whose injection of cool partly comes from its 60,000 students.

In the day time, I loved photographing the eclectic mix of art, from wall mosaics to giant sculptures (including a horror-house looking façade of giant sperm), and at night I ventured out to revel with the cool kids and students of the city as they party in these clubs and gather in droves on these very streets. I got a good feel for the real Ljubljana as it stands today – young, vibrant and outrageously artistic.

The hostel on site, should you want to base yourself here, is a former prison where all rooms are former cells and made to still look like them (but with more comfortable touches!).

I was told there wasn’t a lot to see at the Rog Factory, which is a short walk away from Metelkova, but I disagree. Should the door to the site be open, it’s well worth a wander. One room was an ariel silk practice area, others artists were working away in their small studios and the courtyard was filled with junk art, murals and even a robot sculpture made of metal. It’s a fascinating, reformed space where anything goes.

Green Ljubljana – Adventures in City Nature

Ljubljana is described as a “small capital with a green soul”, which means there’s plenty more to visually feast on than the gorgeous old town architecture. Central Slovenia is a blanket of nature filled with lakes, hills and mountains. Look out for my next post where I will be exploring all the hiking, biking and countryside fun in and around Ljubljana, which you can easily combine with a trip to the city.

The heart of Slovenia and a lesser-known darling of central Europe, Ljubljana will charm you with its old town, but surprise you with how much more it has to offer. It might just be time to re-think your European city-hopping route.

Things to Know:

How to Get to Ljubljana and Around

Well connected by rail, European buses like Flix and by plane, the Slovenian company GoOpti also operates car transfers between neighbouring cities and neighbouring country airports in Germany, Austria, Croatia and Italy. We took the GoOpti transfer from Graz to Ljubljana and I also took it back to Vienna from Ljubljana, where you share a car with other travellers booked on the same journey or route. You are reminded about your journey via text both 24 hours before and when your vehicle has arrived.

Attractions in Ljubljana

The Ljubljana card is an all-inclusive card giving you access to over 20 major attractions and museums, travel on the city buses, a guided city tour and 24-hour Internet access. You can save 10% by booking online.

24 hours: €27

48 hours: €34

72 hours: €39

Where to Stay in Ljubljana

I stayed in Hotel Gallaria, a part of the Old Town and on its quiet fringes.  It sits on the corner of some restaurants and coffee shops (which are open until late!), and is a five minute walk to the very centre of the old town where the action is.

The former prison turned design hostel in the alternative area of Metlekova is called Celica Art Hostel, with 20 unique cell rooms to choose from. It’s five minutes walk from the main train station and 10 to the very heart of town.

For those looking for luxury, the 4 star Grand Union Hotel, just metres from Preseren Square and the Triple Bridge. From the early 20th century, it is the oldest in the city, built during the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. It is considered to be one of the most significant Art Nouveau architectural structures in central Europe.

Getting Around Ljubljana

In the Old Town, which is a vehicle free zone, a free shuttle bus/buggy system exists where you can get from one end of the Old Town to another quickly. It’s super handy at times, although the joy is in walking.

If you want to use the bus (without a Ljubljana card), you will need to purchase an ‘Urbana’ card from a newspaper stand. It costs €2. Each bus tickets cost €1.20 and is valid for 90 minutes.

Bikes are everywhere in Ljubljana, to the point where you’ll feel like you are in Amsterdam. Should you wish to join the city cyclists, bicycles can be hired in summer and autumn from the Slovenian Tourist Information Centre on Krekov trg 10, for €2 for 2 hours and €8 for two hours or more. You can also use the Bicike(LJ) hire network with 36 docking stations around the city. The first hour is free and every additional hour is €1. You have to register online first.

Ljubljana City Tours and Excursions in Slovenia

There’s a whole host of city tours and day excursions, from culinary and cultural walks, to beer and bicycle tours, as well as day trips to many parts of Slovenia and neighbouring countries such as Italy. All can be booked from the Tourism Office in the heart of the Old Town on Stritarjeva ulica (street). Slovenia is so small, it is said you can visit any point of the country in a day.

What time of the Year is Best to Visit Ljubljana?

Ljubljana is considered to have a ‘continental climate’ making it both a winter haven, given the rolling green that surrounds it, and with beautiful Mediterranean climate in the summer months

  The post Guide to Ljubljana, Slovenia – The Old, Alternative and Green Capital of Europe appeared first on Borders Of Adventure.

via Travel Blogs http://ift.tt/2fZlIFZ

[fadingfartconnoisseur]

The Two Sides to Graz, Austria: (Part 2) The Culturally Creative City, From History to Hipster

My trip to Graz was a combination of a #EuroCityTrip project to highlight the city as a ‘cool neighbour’ to Slovenia’s Ljubljana and as part of my #YearInAustria project, where I set out on a city-hopping tour at the start of summer to uncover the urban hubs of Innsbruck, Salzburg and Graz to show you how not all Austrian cities are the same. Graz was my third stop. 

Part 2: Trendy, New Graz. The Hipster to the History

Graz – Austria’s second largest city  – is defined mostly by its 900 years of history which lives on in every street, city pocket and hillside. But that’s just one half of its cultural story.

The modern persona of Graz, which helped give it the coveted titles of UNESCO City of Design and European Cultural Capital (2003) is just as worthy of your attention in order to understand it as a whole. (You can read Part 1: 900 Years of Historical Graz. The ‘Mediterranean’ City of Austria here).

While there is a mesh to the old and new parts of Graz, the River Mur neatly cuts the more obvious parts of old and new Graz in two. Which makes for easier navigation for visitors wanting to delve deeper into its two distinct personalities. Locals see this ‘south’ side of the city as more ‘playful’ and the contrast between the two is welcomed and celebrated.

My time in the trendy part of Graz started by checking into the Wiesler Hotel, on the other side of the River Mur from the historical old town. The lobby bears an artwork of jagged wood – a beam puzzle art installation by Austrian artist, Clemens Hollerer. It’s a sister of the Hotel Daniel brand, that’s been making its ultra trendy mark in Vienna (although it first in Graz).

The hotel lies on the same stretch of Grieskai street that’s home to the city’s revered modern landmark of the Kunsthouse (modern art museum, built in 2003) and affectionately known locally as the “Friendly Alien”. You can’t miss it, and since I was obsessed with this architectural bubble before I even arrived, it was the perfect location. Not to mention that as a coffee freak, the hip Tribeka coffee shop was also on the same stretch of funky straße (road). It’s here that Graz’s younger generation hang out, and who are quite possibly living in the adjacent Lend neighbourhood.

This side of the river is packed with the ultra cool and for those looking for contemporary immersion in a historical city. The creative neighbourhood of Lend starts in the area around Mariahilferplatz, whose history dates back to the 19th century when immigrants from Yugoslavia and Turkey settled here, bringing together multiple cultures, cuisines, communities and commerce.

It’s a natural trend for the creative minded to be attracted to the underdog areas; the gritty and unknown. Today Lend is a mix of eco initiative stores, trendy eateries that reflect the cultural mix of the area or where you can gorge on traditional Backhendl with a bit more chic, outdoor markets, and a regenerated old red light district area (the area specifically between the Kunsthaus and Lendplatz).

In the evening a small clusters of casual pubs and urbanite bars, and late night foodie spots like ‘Brot und Spiele’, give it a homely and ‘in the know’ neighbourhood feel. The hipster bar, Kabuff is a play on the areas past, meaning ‘no brothel’ in Styrian dialect.

The charity design shops are at the very heart of this creative side of Graz, selling all kinds of upcycled items from fashion, jewellery and homeware. Yet the focus on the design projects is that they focus on youth employment and the involvement of young locals, which means when you shop here, you are a part of a full-circle initiative.

There are pockets of street art, buildings painted in a myriad of colour and pattern, a church (St.Andrä) that combines religion with contemporary art, and repurposed old spaces that make for super geil (cool) hangouts. It has been given a new lease of life from what was once a place seen as discarded and unkempt. What’s exciting is that it is still expanding and adding colour and life to an area that was once on the sidelines of old, historical Graz.

The fact that this area is built on multi-culturalism and thrives on this community spirit is of great importance. The annual Grieskram food and performance festival brings everyone together and the socio-cultural project, Annenviertal encourages Graz locals to take part in community activities to drive interest and awareness in new business and neighbourhood initiatives in order to keep the area on the map. As a visitor, you are just as a much a part of keeping this side of the Mur River alive.

That’s not to say that this ultra hip Graz separates itself from the old. It simply compliments it.

While the ledges of the Schlossberg looks down over this area, this side of the river looks up. In the Kunsthaus, one of its ‘nozzle’ windows points in a different direction to all of the others – for a direct old to modern facing view of the famous Bell Tower on the Schlossberg.

The River, a vein of the old city, is connected with modern structures such as the Murinsel (a café and exhibition space) that sits right in the water with footbridges that link to both sides of the bank, and the Mur Promenade (which you can access via stairs leading down from the main Erzherzog Johann Brücke) with a waterside bar and spot for relaxation. The brave go river surfing in the strong currents, which you might be lucky to spot on a good day.

That’s not to say all of contemporary and cool Graz is contained on one side, either.

Artworks have made their way across the river, blending with the historical old streets, like the blue ring in Schlossbergplatz, and sporadic structures on other squares, like the lampshade metalwork I found. The Joanneumsviertal cultural centre is a funky glass structure nestled within the old town streets. Trendy hangouts like Ducks Coffee Shop on Rabergasse and Albert’s bar on Herrengasse are well-established new haunts in the historical centre.

Then you have independent stores like first package free organic grocery store, Das Gramm that is practically next door to the old chocolate making shop. Not to mention when the sun goes down and the old Graz hums with heavy metal and Indie music bars like Tick Tack and Guest Room, DJ spots like Café Mitte and underground clubs like Club Q.

Graz is also host to plenty of cultural festivals throughout the year too, giving all the more reason to come back after you’ve explored its history and hipster hangouts. Graz hosts all manner of creative festivals annually, including the Austrian Film Festival in March, the electronic music Springfestival in May, and the Steirischer Herbst contemporary art festival in October takes over the city with everything from visual art, theatre and political debates.

Graz’s modern history defines it just as much as its 900 years past. Crossing the River Mur and exploring a whole new side of Graz that lies right behind the ‘Friendly Alien’ landmark completes the picture as to the city’s origins, cultural diversity and artistic heart.

Read ‘Part 1: 900 Years of Historical Graz. The ‘Mediterranean’ City of Austria’ here to see what there is to see and do in the historical side of Graz.

Top Tips: Things to See and Do in Graz

Arnold Schwarzenegger fans can sip a coffee in a room dedicated to him in Andy Warhol style at the Grand Café Kaiserfeld. The ‘Governor’s Room’ is filled with portraits of the Hollywood star and Graz’s famous son. Nearby Thal is his homeplace where you can visit his birthhouse with is now a museum, where you can pose with a giant statue.

  The Parish Church on Herrengasse, while known for its Baroque Tower, includes a reminder to the cities darker days, featuring modern art stained glass windows, one which includes a portrait of Hitler and Mussolini watching the crown of thorns coronation of Jesus.

For a taste of the Styrian craft beer scene, head to café bar Vintage.

  For the best Backhendl indulgence (half Styrian chicken in crispy breadcrumbs) head to The Steirer on Belgiergasse, pictured above. The restaurant also has the largest selection of regional wines.

Return to the ‘Friendly Alien’ at night, when it becomes an light-art installation.

  Local top picks for the Lend neighbourhood hangouts include brunch favourite Blendend, Rangoon for cocktails and Lotte (a smokers bar). We enjoyed taking random strolls and testing all manner of hideouts!

  The weekly farmers market takes place in Lend Monday-Saturday in Lendplatz, until 1pm

  If you want to be in the know about local events and nightlife while in Graz, check out the listings on Kultur Graz.

Things to Know about Graz:

Graz is close to Vienna and is well-connected to the capital (and all other major Austrian cities) via the ÖBB rail network. From Vienna, the train journey is approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes. Graz is also seen as a ‘sister city’ with Slovenia’s Ljubljana, which surprising similarities (as I will write about later).

Graz is a very easy city to explore on foot, which is why an all-encompassing city card isn’t necessarily needed.

Grab a copy of the “Graz. Made by locals for Young Travellers” map. It’s detailed without being boring, and full of insider hints and tips, alongside the very best hangouts, from coffee to quirky themed bars.

Should you wish to take public transport, a 1 hour ticket (valid from the tram and bus) is €2.20 and a 24 hours ticket is €5, which is much better value.

If you are a museum fan, the Joanneum 24 hours tickets grants admission to all exhibitions under the ‘Universalmusuem Joanneum’, which includes the Kunsthaus and Schloss Eggenberg (just outside of the city centre).

Check Out Our Video From Graz:

GRAZ | Austria’s Southern Beauty from Emiliano Bechi Gabrielli on Vimeo.

For further Information on Graz:

Check out the Graz Tourism Information website. For further information about planning your trip around Austria visit the Austria Tourism website, where you can also keep up to date with all my adventures.

The post The Two Sides to Graz, Austria: (Part 2) The Culturally Creative City, From History to Hipster appeared first on Borders Of Adventure.

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The Two Sides to Graz, Austria: (Part 1) History, Tradition & the ‘Mediterranean’ Austrian City

My trip to Graz was a combination of a #EuroCityTrip project to highlight the city as a ‘cool neighbour’ to Slovenia’s Ljubljana (they have a lot in common!) and as part of my #YearInAustria project, where I set out on a city-hopping tour at the start of summer to uncover the urban hubs of Innsbruck, Salzburg and Graz to show you how not all Austrian cities are the same. Graz was my third stop. 

Part 1. 900 Years of Historical Graz. The ‘Mediterranean’ City of Austria.

Graz has a distinctive atmosphere that marks it out from other Austrian cities, yet you most probably haven’t heard of it outside of Vienna, Salzburg and Innsbruck. It’s one of Austria’s best kept secrets. As modern and creative as it is old and traditional – a city of arts and modern culture that also displaying 900 years of living history, from the Middle Ages to the 21st Century – it emits a strong Mediterranean vibe, making you feel more south of Austria than you actually are.

What you immediately notice in the centuries old streets is an air of Italian charm, from the al fresco filled streets to strolls that lead you through the squares, archways and townhouse facades in earthly shades. The second largest city in Austria and the state capital of Styria, Graz is rather proud of its distinction. Although it has somehow always remained off radar compared to other Austrian cities. Maybe it was trying to keep its secret in tact, but now Graz wants to proudly show off its heritage (and it’s hipster), so if you want to explore a lesser-known destination of Austria, this is your city.

There are cities where you can just feel the abundance of sights as soon as you step foot in them, mainly due to visionary overload. Graz is one of them and I was excited to go and search out all its layers and details. Its preserved old world charms and deep-rooted history granted it UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site status, and later in 2003, a European Capital of Culture. There’s a lot going on here.

This is mainly found in the compact Historical Centre – an easy to navigate, but chock full of sites area melded together in a small space by a hill and a park. From townhouses painted with old murals to romantic courtyards, open baroque squares and winding cobblestoned streets; it is a living history walking tour. I was able to trace the city’s story from its early days as an old town with a fortress, through to the Imperial years of the late 1400s and beyond, to the modern cultural, art and design foundations that have been added to the mix.

You could easily explore Graz in two days, but if you want to add the Mediterranean lifestyle to the mix, give yourself three or four.

My highlights of bygone Graz include the impressive Italian Renaissance arcades of the Landhaus Courtyard (where today the Styrian regional parliament meets), the stonemasonry masterpiece that is the dizzying double spiral staircase at the entrance to the Burg, and the cluster of magnificent buildings that are the Cathedral and Mausoleum commissioned by Kaiser Ferdinand III and Kaiser Ferdinand II in Italian style.

Herrengasse, which is the main thoroughfare of the city, and the adjacent main square, Graz Hauptplatz are at the very heart of the city and central to navigation. Herrengasse is lined with modern stores and bars, yet also with palaces, alleyways to grand squares and preserved historical buildings.

Look out for the “Painted House” at number 7, adorned with Baroque frescos in 1742 and the “Luegghaus” façade on the corner of Sporgasse, which is now home to the Swarovski store.

The square is marked by a statue of Archduke Johann of Austria (the “Styrian Prince”) who helped develop Graz with various initiatives and grand visions over the course of 50 years. It was the city’s very first market place during the medieval era, and is now dominated by the magnificent 19th century Rathaus, which was built around the houses people refused to sell to make way for it!

Sporgasse ended up being one my favourite streets that I walked the length of over and over again. It’s considered one of the most romantic streets in the city. It’s here you’ll find the oldest parish church, the oldest courtyard in the city, some of the more exquisite building facades and the quirky with their own legends (check out the Turk statue on Palais Saurau at number 25).

You can also indulge at the former Habsburg bakery (the Hofbäckerei Edegger-Tax) whose wooden façade topped with a double-gilded eagle retains the same imperial decadence and offers some of the traditional sweet offerings as they were back then.

It’s because of this mix of Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque architecture that granted Graz the title of “the best preserved city centre of Central Europe”. It’s a city where detail is in abundance, from the rooftops and delicate balconies, to the old establishments that line the pavements.

For me, looking up to find figurine details and frescos (be sure to catch the performance when the Glockenspiel strikes at 11am, 3pm and 6pm), was just as surprising at what you found looking straight ahead.

Yet one of the best views of all, and to take in the famous sweep of orange rooftops (with the modern blue bulbous ‘Friendly Alien’ Kunsthaus modern art museum reminding you of the dominance of the new, trendy Graz), head up to the city’s centerpiece – the Schlossberg.

I took the funicular (and climbed down the 260 steps of the Schlossbergstiege) to the 473 metre high Schlossberg for the best views of the entire city.

This green platform of trees and gardens was once the site of a small fort, giving Graz its name, meaning “little castle” before it was extended to a larger Renaissance fortress that was later destroyed by Napoleon. Bastions and an old gate still remain, although people flock up here to stand next to the 28-metre high Clock Tower, the traditional and most well-known symbol of Graz.

Graz is defined by its history, which lives on in every street, pocket and hillside. But that’s just one half of it’s cultural story… it’s modern persona is just as worthy of your attention in order to understand it as a whole…

Part 2: Trendy, Modern Graz coming soon.

Top Tips: Things to See and Do in Graz

There is an historic centre walking tour that is run by Graz Tourist Information, which starts at its location on Herrengasse 16. This is one way, to have an introduction to the history of the city while viewing the most revered facades, courtyards and romantic squares. Alternatively pick up a map from the Tourist Office and follow the marked route.

The ‘Altstadt Tram’ is a free tram that runs through the city centre, between Jakominiplatz and Hauptplatz, although walking is a better option to dig out all the small details.

The rooftop of the Kastner Und Öhler department store is also said to be a favourite terrace hotspot for a panoramic city view. It well worth a look inside for the ornate golden pillars that decorate the store itself.

Want to try an old traditional hangout in the city? Head to Frankowitsch, framed over the years for its open-faced sandwiches that you order with a “Pfiff” (very small glass) of beer.

I tried to get a spot at Café König, but it’s small and a popular place for the old traditional coffee-house vibes. This café in particular dates back to 1918, and is decked out in dark wood, with coffee pastries and a warm, family business atmosphere.

Check Out Our Video From Graz:

GRAZ | Austria’s Southern Beauty from Emiliano Bechi Gabrielli on Vimeo.

Things to Know about Graz:

Graz is close to Vienna and is well-connected to the capital (and all other major Austrian cities) via the ÖBB rail network. From Vienna, the train journey is approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes. Graz is also seen as a ‘sister city’ with Slovenia’s Ljubljana, which surprising similarities (as I will write about later).

Graz is a very easy city to explore on foot, which is why an all-encompassing city card isn’t necessarily needed.

Grab a copy of the “Graz. Made by locals for Young Travellers” map. It’s detailed without being boring, and full of insider hints and tips, alongside the very best hangouts, from coffee to quirky themed bars.

Should you wish to take public transport, a 1 hour ticket (valid from the tram and bus) is €2.20 and a 24 hours ticket is €5, which is much better value.

If you are a museum fan, the Joanneum 24 hours tickets grants admission to all exhibitions under the ‘Universalmusuem Joanneum’, which includes the Kunsthaus and Schloss Eggenberg (just outside of the city centre).

For further Information on Graz:

Check out the Graz Tourism Information website. For further information about planning your trip around Austria visit the Austria Tourism website, where you can also keep up to date with all my adventures.

The post The Two Sides to Graz, Austria: (Part 1) History, Tradition & the ‘Mediterranean’ Austrian City appeared first on Borders Of Adventure.

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