#i mean i did 2 of these w tutorials but the last one completely alone so ig it's ok so far. for a few hours learning time u know.

[kimmkitsuragi]

but could a depressed person do THESE

[jinfilms]

mobile header tutorial

hello! I’m here to share how to create a header similar to these that i’ve done in the past. here are the tools i’m using:

photoshop cc 2018 (from @birdysources)

some picture of hoseok probably from either twitter or weverse i don’t remember lol

i included pictures and tried to make it VERY beginner friendly, but please, send me an ask or dm if i’m unclear at any point. it’s 2:38 am as i’m making this tutorial and i just downed my cold brew so i’m sorry if it’s messy

1: open your picture in photoshop (here’s the picture of hobi if u wanna follow along)

2: find the quick selection tool

you’ll find it in the left sidebar, fourth from the top. i’ll often use this and the tool above it (polygonal lasso tool) depending on the photo. the quick selection tool is faster but more tedious, in my opinion, but hoseok was easy enough to cut out just using the quick select. use both! whatever u are comfortable with. 

here are my settings for the tool:

i almost always keep it at 3px. unless the image is huge, then i’ll go up to 5px, but never really above that. 

3: trace over your subject(s) (aka hobi) by dragging the tool along the edges, until you’re happy with the accuracy: 

4: find Select and Mask (directly above the image):

and here are the settings i’m using:

then press ‘Ok’ !

5: Select Inverse (right click inside subject)

now we’re going to press ‘backspace’ on your keyboard, and the background will be gone~ 

make sure your file isn’t locked! it should be labeled ‘Layer 0′ and not ‘Background’ (if it’s locked, just double click it and press ‘Ok’ on the window that pops up)

after pressing backspace to delete the background, it should look like this: 

then deselect it all. now is the time to look closer at your newly made render and see if there’s any cleaning up to do. i’m good to go, so i’m gonna continue on with making my header. 

tip: drag the subject (hobi) with the move tool (very top tool on your left sidebar) to the center so he’s in the very middle. it should click to the center (you’ll see the pink line) 

it’s not necessary for the tutorial but if you plan on saving this render as a .png and dispersing the renders you make-- it’s just cleaner looking to have them centered! 

6: File > New 

i always use 800 x 430 for mobile headers. for gifs, i size it down to 650 x 349.

7: resize and drag hobi into the new canvas (Image > Image Resize) 

for single subjects like this i usually resize them to ~300 to ~400. whatever you think looks best tbh

now drag the file from its place up top:

then the file from where it’s labeled ‘Layer 0′

8: now hobi is inside the canvas where the actual header is going to be made~ you can get rid of the render, or save it as a .png, whatever u plan on doing w it

i’m gonna center my hobi for the header i plan on making! from this point it’s just gonna be coloring, sharpening, etc. if you’re interested in using any textures like flowers or bring in other renders of objects, DeviantArt is a great place to search for texture packs. @beapanda on DeviantArt makes beautiful resources (kpop and non kpop related) be sure to credit them or whoever u save ur textures from! 

for this header i’m not going to be using any outside resources, i just want my hobi to be the focus~ 

for the background, i’m gonna use a gradient from this site (this pack is 200 images. phew) 

i’m using no. 200 from that pack.

9: optional- i’m gonna make some extra layers and start coloring hobi using clipping masks. 

make a new layer > right click the new layer and find ‘create clippink mask’ > set the layer to either color, overlay, or multiply (whatever you think looks best and does what u are trying to achieve)

here i’ve just make layers to color things like his hair, his hoodie, and baby mang

here’s with vs without: 

and when you’re done, go ahead and right click your primary layer (subject layer) and click ‘merge clipping mask’.

10: coloring~ 

find a psd you like or being to color the header yourself. for this header i’m gonna be using a homemade psd. i’m not gonna go into detail bc there are sooo many places to find psds on tumblr and deviantart. just like you brought hobi into the header canvas, drag your psd there, and that’s how u apply a psd. 

when u are happy with the coloring, right click the bottom layer and flatten the image. 

11: topaz clean + unmask sharpen

topaz clean is an addition u have to manually add to your photoshop program. u can google how to do it, but if anyone’s struggling i can show u how i did if i remember (but i’m pretty sure i do)

topaz settings:

unsharp mask settings (go to filter > sharpen > unsharp mask): 

honestly, topaz is completely unnecessary, but i like the way it looks so i’m gonna go with it anyway. sharpening the header alone will still give you a great outcome

12: final step, header border time~

over on my film/tv blog @gusdapperton​ i’ve made a header template pack (click here if u just wanna use my premade borders) but for this tutorial i’m gonna show u how i actually made those (minus the cloud one, i was just fucking around lol) (it’s so simple)

>>> if u DO just save one of the borders i made in that pack, resize it so the width is at 800 and drag it to your header canvas. set the layer to ‘screen’ and bang there u go! 

BUT with that method u can’t change the color from white. so if u want a border with any other color, keep following the tutorial >>>

go to view > rulers and select that to show the rulers (duh)

click from inside the ruler (light grey) and drag out your guides. here are where i’m placing mine:

they should ‘snap’ right into place, but if they don’t, make sure u go to view > snap and that’ll fix it. u will know what i mean once u try it lol

select the curvature pen tool (right click the pen tool to show more tool options):

and begin to place your dots. thanks to the guides, these dots will also snap into place

here are mine: 

(i eyeballed the two in the middle, it doesn’t need to look perfect tbh)

this next step is sorta stupid but i haven’t found a better way to do it yet lol

to close the shape just make sure to closely follow the direction of the dot you last placed, then go around to make your way back to the first... it looks silly but like this:

just play around with the shape and the tool... u will get the hang of it lol

now look up ^ and press Selection

then ‘Ok’ in the next window. then boom~ there’s your selection for the border we’re about to make.

make a new layer then select the rectangular marquee tool (second from the top on the left sidebar) and either drag with your mouse or use the arrow keys to move the selection we just made. here is where i’m placing mine:

then select your paint bucket tool (if you can’t find it, right click the gradient tool and it’ll be one of the sub tools, like i showed u with the pen tool)

make a new layer, then fill it in (i’m using white)

you can stop there, but to make that line like i did in my border template pack, press the down arrow on your keyboard and go down 5-10 pixels, press backspace, go down the same amount of pixels, and re-fill that area. 

now unselect. there’s the border~ 

now go to view > clear guides to get rid of those. u don’t need em anymore :) i’m also going to move the border we’ve just made down to the bottom of the canvas since we don’t need that big gap there. 

>>> tip, don’t fill in the white directly on the layer if you wanna change the color. create a new layer on top of the border layer, right click > create clipping mask > fill the layer with the color u want for the background. example: 

it saves the integrity of the shape. if you color fill right over the white, look closely and you’ll see it looks sort of pixelated and not as clean or smooth. it’s subtle but noticeable enough to me where it bothers me. 

since this color i chose is kinda vibrant and clashes, i’m gonna help it out some. go back to the quick select tool and select everything inside your border layer. make a new layer, fill the layer with black (any color will do, it doesn’t matter) and set the fill to 0%. double click that new layer, and a new screen will pop up. go to drop shadow, find the settings you like, and boom. here’s what i did and what it’ll look like: 

now u are finished~ i didn’t do this but u can skip sharpening the header earlier in the tutorial and reflatten the image again to sharpen it at this point instead but, yknow, i didn’t do that lol

here’s the final product (save by going to file > export > save for web)

preview of how it looks on mobile:

background: 8bd4ed

the end~ please send me an ask or dm if you haven any further questions, i will try my hardest to help <3

[pape22pape-blog]

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[stopsubstanceabuse1-blog]

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[cadianshockblog]

In case you missed it I’ve managed to do a lot of airbrushing recently – I say recently, I mean over the last 6 months. Which is good for me! It’s been all camo stripes so far on a variety of vehicles; Taurox, Malcador, Leman Russ, Valkyrie, Vulture, etc. Time for something new; Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops.

But I’ve wanted to try and do more than just camo with it. It’s a bit of an unknown area for me though. I know you can do pre-shading, OLS and I am sure LOADS of other things too – but that’s still a bit of a leap for me. I just felt like I was perhaps missing out on some time saving in other areas of my hobby. I have done the odd piece of terrain too.

I have to be realistic too, I am never going to be a fantastic airbrush user. I just cannot dedicate the time to it, let alone to a normal paint brush. So slow and steady progress is fine by me.

My usual airbrushing outcome

I wanted to just try and do something smaller and more precise – to change things up for myself and to see if I can paint my masses of infantry any quicker. This is the main reason for this attempt and this article – Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops to get them completed faster. That Emperor’s Shield Infantry Company Formation ain’t going to paint itself!

A major question I have is;

Am I being overly ambitious given my brush (Iwata Revolution BR) – in that I want to quickly get 2 different layer paints onto my infantry models? Or should I just be sticking to doing larger models and camo schemes?

A word of warning; this will be very much me walking through what I did and how it went. Its not an expert tutorial on being a Golden Demon painter. And I think the best way to actually airbrush Cadian Shock Troopers would be to do them on the sprue in parts before assembly. But I do not have that luxury with my guys. So for those of us who assemble and then paint this is what I found out.

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops – Round One

I started out with two Guardsmen from eBay, they’re primed black and mounted on champagne corks – like all Guardsmen should be. It’s a right of passage and part of being welcomed into my Cadian Guard regiment. I’ve probably got a hundred or more Cadian Shock Troops to paint – so any speed improvement will be massive once applied across so many models. If airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops saves just two minutes per model I’ll be happy – as that’s nearly three hours saved during the course of hundred models. Thats a whole game’s worth of time!

My initial attempt was OK. I got Zandri Dust down onto all the areas that needed it; thats the trousers, lower part of the jacket and the arms. But not the ruffle of cloth at the back of the neck as that’s tiny. As I say, it went OK, it seemed faster than brushing it on but it wasn’t that accurate. There seemed to be a lot of overspray going over other areas. Having said that almost everything else on the models will eventually need to be another colour anyway; grey, green, silver, brown, etc. Very little actually needs to stay black – perhaps only the boots. So the overspray while annoying isn’t the end of the world. Its just a faster way of getting that initial layer of Zandri Dust on the model

Another point to consider is that because Zandri Dust is often the first layer it often goes on via the brush in a rather scruffy and rough manner. And therefore needs to be tidied up anyway – so perhaps  I am being too precious about accuracy and overspray from the airbrush on this first layer?

Photos below, what do you think?

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Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops – Round Two

After not being overly impressed with the results I decided to email air-craft.net which is where I bought my Revolution BR from. I just wanted to see what else I could be doing to get a narrower and more accurate spray. Admittedly my needle might be bent, I cannot tell though. So I’ve replaced it just in case as I had a spare and it certainly cannot do any harm.

I took this picture earlier too, its the new needle next to the old one, yes I think it was bent! Although its still hard to tell.

The left/top needle is bent right? It just looks less sharp/pointy than the new one.

It was also suggested that I should try different mixes of thinner and paint. I use 60:40 at the moment (paint : thinner). Although admittedly I didn’t get chance to test this more scientific approach. I guess that getting the right mix will reduce overspray, e.g a paint that is diluted too much will overspray more than a paint thats diluted just right and still goes through the airbrush? Or is that absolutely terrible logic?

I feel like this second attempt with the new needle was about as successful as my first attempt – perhaps its marginally better.

More photos below, what do you think? Are they even any different from Round One?

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Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops – Summary

I think I am still on the fence about this approach for my infantry. It doesn’t seem to be that accurate (at least for me) and perhaps is not any quicker. And even if it is quicker is that undone by the overspray that goes into the boots and the few other black areas (the belt) I do want to keep black? I just don’t know! Emperor guide me!

I might do a third try and be more scientific about it.

Use specific ratios of paint and thinner in an attempt to see if the thinness of the paint effects the overspray.

Paint Zandri Dust on a model using a brush to gain a clear benchmark time and accuracy against which to test the airbrushed models.

Possibly use Game Workshops Zandri Dust Air paint.

Any and all comments are welcome. #outofmydepth

A Quick Final Note

A little note here as I come back to this article to finish it off. After completing a handful of Guardsmen the other day and going back to a brush after a long time of just airbrushing camo stripes – I can safely say that airbrushing the Zandri Dust is a big help and gets that first layer on quickly and neatly every time.

So after all that I am happy and will do this more often. Quick Zandri Dust layer and then onto the brush. Getting the Castellan Green onto the model is too much though. The armour that needs to be green is just too small and the overspray will just ruin the Zandri Dust layer.

The Required End Result – Cadian Shock Troops

These are some older images of my completed Cadian Shock Troops. This is the end result – so placing the Zandri Dust on via airbrush is just a minor step in getting these guys completed. But its quicker than using a brush and that is good enough for me.

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Completed Cadian Shock Troops - using a brush

Completed Cadian Shock Troops – using a brush

Completed Cadian Shock Troops – using a brush

Completed Cadian Shock Troops – using a brush

Zenithal Highlighting

Skip forward a couple of months and I’ve now tried another method. I’ve tried for the first time my hand at Zenithal Highlighting, something which I have zero experience of.

I went from Black to a Dawnstone highlight, then Celestra Grey and finally pure white. I then followed that up with Zandri Dust and I don’t think it made any difference at all. Since doing this I have completed these models with a brush and I could not tell which models I did using Zenithal Highlighting and which models I just sprayed with Zandri Dust right after priming them black.

I do not think the models are big enough to warrant Zenithal highlighting and I don’t think I have the skill at the moment nor the know how to pull it off anyway. But it was fun to do and its something I will return to one day I am sure.

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Primed Black

Zenithal highlighted with Dawnstone Grey

Zenithal highlighted with Celestra Grey

Final Zenithal highlight with White Scar

Final Zenithal highlight with White Scar

Zenithal highlight with Zandri Dust

Zenithal highlight with Zandri Dust

That is all folks!

Airbrushing Cadian Shock Troops – Warhammer 40K Blog In case you missed it I've managed to do a lot of airbrushing recently - I say recently, I mean over the last 6 months.