#i want a big babushka style meal

[crashtestjeffy]

Polish kapusniak.

Or sauerkraut soup.

It is not cabbage soup. This has more zing, and it gets better reheated.

We all need a big bowl of it and some Polish bread with big airy insides and crusty outside.

[dinnerturkey60]

The Secret Life Of Cream Cheese

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[exit-paradise]

Russia: An Introvert’s Paradise

Being an introverted American in Russia is great because no one really wants to talk to you.

My trip to Russia in February of 2018 started the way all my trips start. With tons of research, planning and maybe too much thought put into packing.

What follows below is a picture of all the items I took with me, with convenient red no-no's over the things I didn't use (5 things). I can accept one or two, but this was too many.

The reason some of these things didn't get used is that the giant coat with the fur trimmed hood (center right) was TOO MUCH COAT!!

I bought it a few weeks before the trip when I saw that temperatures in Irkutsk and Krasnoyatsk were in the -30 to -40 range. (C or F, you ask? It doesn't matter. That is sudden death cold either way).

But when I did get there the temp has warmed to -5 F (-20 C).

So this coat was Overkill. Especially in Moscow where it was +20 F (-6 C), and I had the hood off and coat unzipped wide open like a madman.

Sorry for the Potato quality images of the Kremlin. Imagine this but crisp and vibrant. Moscow in winter is probably better than any other time because of all the holiday decorations.

I spent a few days in Moscow before I headed off to Siberia for the dogsledding trip, and let me tell you, Moscow is amazing.

Now, if you’re like me and grew up in the 80′s, your idea of Russia is probably a drab, blocky, communist dump. But it’s absolutely gorgeous, so I spent a lot of time just walking around, hitting Red Square, the Kremlin, Moscow State University, Gorky Park, and the UNESCO listed Church of the Ascension.

Church of the Ascension, Moscow. Built in 1532 to commemorate the birth of who would later become Ivan the Terrible.

I wasn’t as adventurous for food in Moscow as I should have been. Fortunately there are quite a few cafeteria style restaurants that were much less socially precarious than a traditional restaurant where you have to talk to a waiter. The old Soviet throwback cafeterias were a special lil treat.

After my time Moscow, I headed back to the Airport to catch a red eye to Irkutsk, a 5 hour flight.

Irkutsk is full of old wooden buildings. I am not sure how anyone could stay warm in there in the -5 F degree weather.

In Irkutsk, I had my biggest issues and awkward moments of the trip.

I ventured to a real restaurant, where the staff didn’t speak English and neither did the menu.  I recognized Borsht, so I ordered that as a starter. Then I just pointed to something on the Menu in the Entree section. What arrived was another bowl of soup. I mean, it was basically a goat leg boiled in broth, but yeah, I had two soups for a meal.

I could not get my ATM card to work anywhere. I tried at least 15 ATMs. Fortunately the Sled Dog trip would accept PayPal. But it was a tense few hours there where I thought I had traveled 13 time zones just to fail because of US sanctions against Russia.

Sled dogs are super friendly.

At the helm of the sled on the frozen Lake Baikal. These 8 dogs carried 3 people and some bags.

The dog sledding trip was just about the best I could have hoped for. It wasn’t too cold (only -5F), and for my first time, only 4-5 hours on sled per day was just about right. There were 2 other americans and A kiwi on the trip, and all of us enjoyed the overnight in the cabin complete with traditional Russian Banya experience.

A Russian banya works like this: you strip naked and enter a warm, wet antechamber. Here there are shallow pans and ladles on the wall, some felt hats, a barrel of cold water and a spigot coming from the furnace with scalding hot water. Not knowing what to do, one of the more traveled of your companions assumes it's like a Japanese bath where you are to rinse off before entering the sauna room.

Hearing the spashing water, an old Russian man comes in fully clothed and frantically tries to explain to you what to do.

After a few tense moments, you learn this: get some hot water from the spigot into the pan, add a ladle of cold water. Put on a felt hat and take your warm water into the sauna room. There is a rock embedded in the furnace. Throw tiny amounts of water with the ladle on it until you are about to die. Return to the antechamber and cool off with cold or warm water from the barrel and spigot. Repeat until dead.

The next morning it was back to Irkutsk for another uneventful night before I caught the Trans-Siberian to Krasnoyarsk.

Now boarding on platform 4, Train #1 from Vladivostok to Moscow, but I was only doing 8 hours from Irkutsk to Krasnoyarsk.

I took a pretty big gamble for my Trans-Siberian mini-adventure and booked a 3rd class sleeper. If you don’t know what that is, it is basically a train car filled with beds. I thoroughly enjoyed it in retrospect, but let me tell you all the ways I messed it up.

I picked the worst berth. On one side of the Aisle, there are 4 beds (2 sets of bunk beds facing a table) that are perpendicular to the aisle, like so =|. On the other side, the cheapest bunks, are parallel to the aisle, like so ||. And I chose the upper bunk. During the day the lower bunk folds up to reveal two seats and a table. At bedtime, the bed folds down and the table and chairs goes away. If you’re on the top bunk, you’ve nowhere to sit or put anything, and very little head room. So when the babuska in the lower bunk decided 9pm was a good bedtime (and really, at night there’s nothing to see or do anyway), the only place to go was lay down in my upper bunk.

I might have been in the wrong car. I was supposed to be in car 16, and I was sure it said 16 on the outside, but a display screen at the ends of the car said 18. So I spent a good deal of time being terrified that someone would get on the train and make me move.

When travel guides recommend you bring flip flops or a good pair of slippers, you better do what they say. I had a thin pair that I’d gotten from the Transatlantic flight, and it was not enough to save my feet from the sludge on the floor of the bathroom.

When the Russian gentleman invites you to sit on his bunk because the babushka is sleeping, you take him up on the offer. I refused politely and said I don’t speak Russian. I could have had a great, social moment with a stranger and instead I stood in a super narrow aisle for thirty minutes.

All comfy in 3rd class. Honestly, with a friend or two, this would be a really amazing way to travel.

I got to Krasnoyarsk early in the morning, checked in to my hotel and pretty much just checked out. I was mentally exhausted by this point and so despite being able to see a ski resort across the mighty Yenisei River, I only explored the center city area on foot after a nap.

Krasnoyarsk straddles the Yenisei River, the largest river system that flows into the Arctic ocean.

That was it for Russia. 3 flights, 13 time zones, 7500 miles, and 16 hours later I was home.